I have a 2011 Sequoia and used this video, step-by-step to replace my water pump. There were three deviations from the video. 1) The three bolts marked in yellow in the mirror (5:47) show one incorrect bolt (the furthest one back) 2) There were only two bolt head sizes, 12 and 14. No 17mm. The bolt on your video that shows 17 is actually just a second 14mm. 3) There are three bracket bolts holding the two metal pipes to the engine - the third (which is not shown in the video) is beside the AC clutch/pulley which needs to be removed to provide the type of lateral play shown in the video. That third bolt cannot be removed without first sliding the AC compressor about 1" towards the DS wheel. The four compressor bolts/nuts can be loosened enough (without removing them) to create the necessary play. Other than that, the video was spot-on. I was able to DIY without any issues. Granted, I do have a two-post lift in my barn, so it made accessing everything that much easier.
@@northwesttoyotas509 I used that green universal shit once. I had replaced the radiator and washed out the system. That green stuff curdled and I had cottage cheese through the whole system. I had to take everything apart and boil out the radiator. Never again.
This was a very helpful video. I found a few things different on my 2008 5.7l Tundra. The biggest thing was at 4:45. That hose was removed so the metal "hose" to the short 3" hose could be removed easily. The right side of the short hose on my Tundra went to a metal pipe that ran all the way down to the AC compressor area. With the easy short hose removal method not available to me, I used a socket extension with a 12mm socket underneath the small hose to get to the hard to reach bolt on the thermostat housing. I worked the socket at an angle so the bottom of the 12mm nut had some socket on it then used a good bit of pressure pushing up on the extension to bend the short rubber hose up just enough to get the socket on the 12mm. Then with all three bolts out I just pulled the thermostat housing to the left and off that short 3" hose. You can get a standard open or ratcheting wrench on the bolt, but there is no room to turn it to break the bolt loose. As others have said, the bolts on the water pump were either 12mm or 14mm (no 17mm). I also recommend putting the serpentine belt back before the fan and fan shroud since it is very easy with those out of the way.
I just did this on a 2018 Tundra. Not this easy. That little hose will give you big headaches. You can’t just pry away metal hose or you may break it. It’s 1/2 inch heater hose and I ended up just cutting it in the middle and using a pick to pry it off. It was about an 8 hour job for me. I also replaced the thermostat belt, tensioner and idler. That job is one I’m glad I did but won’t miss doing it again.
I replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 2013 5.7 FF a couple of years ago and now it is starting to run hot again. Are there any other components in the cooling system that may have failed, or did I just buy a crappy replacement and need to replace again?
I'm doing this right now. I'm about to put in the new water pump. I think it would give more room, taking out the radiator, I considered it several times. I put a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator to keep from dinging the fins. The biggest Problems I had were stuck bolts. The fan nuts were the worst. I had to torch each one and then use a cold chisel to get them started, then buy new ones. I changed the idler pulleys too, and the 6mm hex bolt was rusted. I carefully WD40'd the rust out, torched it, hammered the 6mm Allen key in there, and it came out with a lot of effort and a cheater bar. I thought I was going to bend the Allen wrench. . Some other thread warned me how bad it could be so I just did everything all at once. The hex bolt was in good condition, other than a bit of rust on the head. My 07 tundra has 260k miles, I'm doing this proactively, no squeaks or anything. The old idler pulleys had a slight hint of not perfectly smooth feel to the spin, the water pump definitely had a not smooth feel, and the serpentine belt had barely visible cracks in it. (Idler and belt last changed at 150k I think) also changing the thermostat, I don't think that's ever been done. I have this video on my tablet with me under the hood.
If you flush the coolant every 30k miles I will last a long time. The maintenance book does not show anything about water pump replacement. But it only goes up to 100k or so.
+Ron. -JR- Fleener The part in this video fits your application, and the install should be the same or similar. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
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√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Worst part is you made that look really easy ! Nice one.
I have a 2011 Sequoia and used this video, step-by-step to replace my water pump. There were three deviations from the video.
1) The three bolts marked in yellow in the mirror (5:47) show one incorrect bolt (the furthest one back)
2) There were only two bolt head sizes, 12 and 14. No 17mm. The bolt on your video that shows 17 is actually just a second 14mm.
3) There are three bracket bolts holding the two metal pipes to the engine - the third (which is not shown in the video) is beside the AC clutch/pulley which needs to be removed to provide the type of lateral play shown in the video.
That third bolt cannot be removed without first sliding the AC compressor about 1" towards the DS wheel. The four compressor bolts/nuts can be loosened enough (without removing them) to create the necessary play.
Other than that, the video was spot-on. I was able to DIY without any issues. Granted, I do have a two-post lift in my barn, so it made accessing everything that much easier.
+erkme73 We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
One of the best diy videos I’ve ever seen. Professional and extremely knowledgeable technician ! Excellent video and audio presentations.
Great video thanks. Just do not use the green universal coolant. Use only the red or pink Toyota brand. Other than that great.
I cried on the inside when I saw that. 😬😀
@@northwesttoyotas509 I used that green universal shit once. I had replaced the radiator and washed out the system. That green stuff curdled and I had cottage cheese through the whole system. I had to take everything apart and boil out the radiator. Never again.
Yeah I saw that was like why would you do that….
This was a very helpful video. I found a few things different on my 2008 5.7l Tundra. The biggest thing was at 4:45. That hose was removed so the metal "hose" to the short 3" hose could be removed easily. The right side of the short hose on my Tundra went to a metal pipe that ran all the way down to the AC compressor area. With the easy short hose removal method not available to me, I used a socket extension with a 12mm socket underneath the small hose to get to the hard to reach bolt on the thermostat housing. I worked the socket at an angle so the bottom of the 12mm nut had some socket on it then used a good bit of pressure pushing up on the extension to bend the short rubber hose up just enough to get the socket on the 12mm. Then with all three bolts out I just pulled the thermostat housing to the left and off that short 3" hose. You can get a standard open or ratcheting wrench on the bolt, but there is no room to turn it to break the bolt loose. As others have said, the bolts on the water pump were either 12mm or 14mm (no 17mm). I also recommend putting the serpentine belt back before the fan and fan shroud since it is very easy with those out of the way.
Thank you for putting the torque specs in here!!!!!! Love this channel!
Would be an awesome extra touch if you included the bolt head sizes in the diagrams.
I just did this on a 2018 Tundra. Not this easy. That little hose will give you big headaches. You can’t just pry away metal hose or you may break it. It’s 1/2 inch heater hose and I ended up just cutting it in the middle and using a pick to pry it off. It was about an 8 hour job for me. I also replaced the thermostat belt, tensioner and idler. That job is one I’m glad I did but won’t miss doing it again.
Great video! So no sealant needed?
Gave me the encouragement to give it a try. Very helpful. Better yet, I saved money from auto shop quote. THANK YOU!
+@keithmiller3298 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Why is that gasket not metal like OEM? Still just as good?
What’s the length of the 17mm bolts from the water pump cuz mine is missing help plz
My water pump didn't have a 17mm bolt, it only had 14 and 12mm... not sure why that is different.
Thanks for the information it was very helpful.
+Saso Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing!
What'd you put on the threads for the bolts? Never seez?
I replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 2013 5.7 FF a couple of years ago and now it is starting to run hot again. Are there any other components in the cooling system that may have failed, or did I just buy a crappy replacement and need to replace again?
How much is the cost for such a repair?
Great video. I just got the bad news today mine is due
Next time I do this I'm removing the radiator just for ease of life 🥲
Great vid though!
Just purchased one is it suppose to leak from weep hole
Excellent! Thank you!
Install the belt before you install the fan and shroud it makes it way easier to
The metal line you pry on in the video mine is rusty do you know what part number that is cant find it in any diagrams
I see it wasn’t needed but Would removing the radiator give you more room to work?
I'm doing this right now. I'm about to put in the new water pump. I think it would give more room, taking out the radiator, I considered it several times. I put a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator to keep from dinging the fins. The biggest Problems I had were stuck bolts. The fan nuts were the worst. I had to torch each one and then use a cold chisel to get them started, then buy new ones. I changed the idler pulleys too, and the 6mm hex bolt was rusted. I carefully WD40'd the rust out, torched it, hammered the 6mm Allen key in there, and it came out with a lot of effort and a cheater bar. I thought I was going to bend the Allen wrench. . Some other thread warned me how bad it could be so I just did everything all at once. The hex bolt was in good condition, other than a bit of rust on the head. My 07 tundra has 260k miles, I'm doing this proactively, no squeaks or anything. The old idler pulleys had a slight hint of not perfectly smooth feel to the spin, the water pump definitely had a not smooth feel, and the serpentine belt had barely visible cracks in it. (Idler and belt last changed at 150k I think) also changing the thermostat, I don't think that's ever been done.
I have this video on my tablet with me under the hood.
What is the piece being cleaned at 7:40?
Thank you!
Thanks for the great video
Is there a recommended interval for replacing the h2o pump? 80k miles? 100k maybe?
I think it's a 60k interval. Some last over 100k but its thats on thin ice.
If you flush the coolant every 30k miles I will last a long time. The maintenance book does not show anything about water pump replacement. But it only goes up to 100k or so.
No interval on a water pump. Change it when/if it fails.
I have an 08 tundra with a 4.7L V8 is it a similar process?
+Ryan Alderman The install should be the same or similar. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Is using a razor blade to remove the gasket the best idea?
Great video. 😎💪🏻
Is that a puny v6? My tundra doesn’t look anything like that!
No it is the 5.7L V8, just look at the plastic engine cover, says it right on top. If yours doesn't look anything like that you have the puny v6
…uhhhh…no. It’s the beasty 5.7. Nothing puny about it.
couldn't you but the belt on before the fan shroud?
Except my water pump isn't located behind the fan. 2014 5.7 Tundra.
+Ron. -JR- Fleener The part in this video fits your application, and the install should be the same or similar. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This fan is not connected to the water pump😢😢😢
praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ thank you Jesus for being our savior 🛐 praise our LORD praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ thank you Jesus for being our savior 🛐 praise our LORD praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ thank you Jesus for being our savior 🛐 praise our LORD praise our LORD 🩸 thank you for being our savior jesus Christ thank you Jesus for being our savior 🛐 praise our LORD
Wrong coolant.
Best to not take the belt off yet so you can take the nuts off easier