As others have said, great video. I appreciate that you kept things simple and straightforward, gave some relevant background information and explained why to be careful about doing certain things. FAR more helpful than some videos I've seen on UA-cam! This was the first of your videos I found, and I'm definitely going to check out more once I have my engine back together (or sooner, if I run into something else I'm not sure about).
Yep, that'll do it. The only thing I'd add would be to real careful not to damage the crank sealing surface when drilling the holes. A big thumbs up for using a block of wood, NOT hitting the seal directly with the hammer !
I don't have that part number handy but I would recommend going with the Subaru factory part. Any local subaru shop should be able to find your exact part number or you could order it through Flatirons Tuning which is where I got mine.
Don't use wood screws, thread is too coarse. Use a self tapping or metal screw as they generally have a fine tread so it can bite into the seal. You also only need a very small hole, 2mm max. Doesn't help pulling out a seal and the metal plate you're levering on is pushing down on the same seal you're trying to pull out. Doing it right the first time reduces the chances of doing any damage. Do some research as to where is the best location to to drill holes. By finding out what is behind or not behind where you drill, will once again reduces the chance of damage.
Don't get used to taking put those rear main seals like that. You'll find that you will deal less damage to the engine using a flat head that you will doing things like drilling a hole in this. You took a huge risk drilling a hole into it and trying to pry it out with a screw mounted to it.
Hey, I accidentally pushed my rear main seal in about 2mm past flush with the crank case. Should I remove and reinstall? Wish I had seen your video sooner! I also used a very very fine film of red lithium grease on only the inside of the seal, since I had seen others use lithium grease. Looks like dry or oil is the way to do it. These are PTFE seals, correct?
Uh oh. If it were me I would definitely pull it out. Who knows what 2mm would actually do but it's not worth the risk if you ask me. I'm not sure what the material is but oil is certainly the safe way to go. Plus you're not adding contaminants to the oil.
@@RacerDave Not what I wanted to hear! I've got another one on the way. Thanks for getting back to me, very much appreciated. You're an unspoken hero to shade-tree mechanics everywhere for making these videos!
If at first you don't succeed.... Excellent video, one question: if the oil plate didn't have a sealer on it originally is it necessary to put RTV on it?
Glad it helped! I'm assuming yours has a rubber seal or some kind of gasket? I feel like I may have seen a plate like that at one point. If that's the case I would find out if it's a gasket that's intended to be reused or not. If not I'd throw a new one on there. I hope that helps. Let me know what you find out.
@@RacerDave do you HAVE to pull the engine to do this job? I have a guy wondering if I can do it for him but I've never worked on one and just need to know if it'll need pulled or not.
@@RacerDave sweet you answer fast. Is it set up like a truck? This guy has awd. Do you drop the trans from underneath or is it like the toyotas awd and bring it all out with the engine?
You drop it from underneath. The only real difference is you have disconnect the front CV shafts from the tranny. The center diff and front diff is all part of the tranny.
Nope, there is no oil that high up. Probably not a bad idea to change the oil after you run it for a bit in case there's anything that got in the engine.
There is a large pocket back there so you'd have to push the drill bit pretty deep to scratch it. You can buy an actual seal puller tool that has a thin hook that you jam by the seal and it has a foot that you use to pry the seal up. It still takes some work to pop the seal it out but it's easier than the screw.
Race Dave = Legend 💪🏾
Replaced my clutch and now main seal and separator ... thanks man keep these videos coming bro
Thanks man! Glad I can help.
As others have said, great video. I appreciate that you kept things simple and straightforward, gave some relevant background information and explained why to be careful about doing certain things. FAR more helpful than some videos I've seen on UA-cam! This was the first of your videos I found, and I'm definitely going to check out more once I have my engine back together (or sooner, if I run into something else I'm not sure about).
Thanks Jon! Glad I could help.
The anticipation of a new tool was AWESOME, had me perk up thinking I was gonna get to order a new tool!!!! HAHAHAHA
Yep, that'll do it. The only thing I'd add would be to real careful not to damage the crank sealing surface when drilling the holes. A big thumbs up for using a block of wood, NOT hitting the seal directly with the hammer !
great video, thank you for putting it together and showing the whole process (no trick edits)
You’re welcome! That’s exactly why I made it.
If you have 5 gallon race fuel jugs, the big 1/2 drive lid makes an excellent seal driver for this job.
That's a great tip! I like that one. Thanks for sharing.
Great trick but adding a flat washer on the screw can help a lot ;)
Another great video Dave and I learned how to changed my rear main now! Thanks!
Awesome!! Thanks!
Great video
Thank you!
What’s that seal part # please and what would be a good brand ?
I don't have that part number handy but I would recommend going with the Subaru factory part. Any local subaru shop should be able to find your exact part number or you could order it through Flatirons Tuning which is where I got mine.
I pryed out the lip on the seal then knocked it in and pryed it out again and it popped out.
Where did you get the new seal from
Thanks for the info, great video
You're very welcome!
very nice .thank you
You are welcome!
Do I need to drain oil for this job?
Nope. All of the oil is down in the pan. Good question!
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester & I believe the Rear Main Seal is leaking.
can the bad rear main seal on these cause oil to pour out like crazy?
If the seal is totally destroyed or missing or pushed all the way in then yes it could push out a lot of oil.
Don't use wood screws, thread is too coarse. Use a self tapping or metal screw as they generally have a fine tread so it can bite into the seal. You also only need a very small hole, 2mm max. Doesn't help pulling out a seal and the metal plate you're levering on is pushing down on the same seal you're trying to pull out.
Doing it right the first time reduces the chances of doing any damage. Do some research as to where is the best location to to drill holes. By finding out what is behind or not behind where you drill, will once again reduces the chance of damage.
Hank you!!!!
Don't get used to taking put those rear main seals like that. You'll find that you will deal less damage to the engine using a flat head that you will doing things like drilling a hole in this. You took a huge risk drilling a hole into it and trying to pry it out with a screw mounted to it.
Good to know thanks
You're welcome!
Hey, I accidentally pushed my rear main seal in about 2mm past flush with the crank case. Should I remove and reinstall? Wish I had seen your video sooner! I also used a very very fine film of red lithium grease on only the inside of the seal, since I had seen others use lithium grease. Looks like dry or oil is the way to do it. These are PTFE seals, correct?
Uh oh. If it were me I would definitely pull it out. Who knows what 2mm would actually do but it's not worth the risk if you ask me. I'm not sure what the material is but oil is certainly the safe way to go. Plus you're not adding contaminants to the oil.
@@RacerDave Not what I wanted to hear! I've got another one on the way. Thanks for getting back to me, very much appreciated. You're an unspoken hero to shade-tree mechanics everywhere for making these videos!
@@matthewperry2820 You're welcome! Thanks for the incredible compliment. It means a lot.
If at first you don't succeed.... Excellent video, one question: if the oil plate didn't have a sealer on it originally is it necessary to put RTV on it?
Glad it helped! I'm assuming yours has a rubber seal or some kind of gasket? I feel like I may have seen a plate like that at one point. If that's the case I would find out if it's a gasket that's intended to be reused or not. If not I'd throw a new one on there. I hope that helps. Let me know what you find out.
yes i have to stress that the rms cannot be pushed in too far or you can have a massive oil leak. like I did lol. wrench and learn.
Bummer! That's the worst when the part you messed up is buried deep in your project. Thanks for sharing though!
@@RacerDave do you HAVE to pull the engine to do this job? I have a guy wondering if I can do it for him but I've never worked on one and just need to know if it'll need pulled or not.
Either the engine or the transmission. About the same amount of work either way.
@@RacerDave sweet you answer fast. Is it set up like a truck? This guy has awd. Do you drop the trans from underneath or is it like the toyotas awd and bring it all out with the engine?
You drop it from underneath. The only real difference is you have disconnect the front CV shafts from the tranny. The center diff and front diff is all part of the tranny.
if I'm doing this with the engine still in the car, do I need to drain the oil?
Nope, there is no oil that high up. Probably not a bad idea to change the oil after you run it for a bit in case there's anything that got in the engine.
Would this also apply to a 2010 wrx?
Yes sir!
wish i wouldve watched this video BEFORE I pushed the seal all the way in😖😞😟😢😓😓
Oh no! Did it go all the way back in the car like that? What happened?
Did the same thing lol, it just dumps oil.
Hmm.. I don’t know.. there’s gotta be a better way than running the risk of scratching the heck out of that crank, not worth the risk imo
There is a large pocket back there so you'd have to push the drill bit pretty deep to scratch it. You can buy an actual seal puller tool that has a thin hook that you jam by the seal and it has a foot that you use to pry the seal up. It still takes some work to pop the seal it out but it's easier than the screw.
Stop smiling 😂
Cut the Bull