This is the best video series on UA-cam! I found your channel just in time as my buddy and I are planning to convert an outdoor shed into a recording studio. It’s 20x12’ with a slightly vaulted ceiling/roof. We are going to treat electrical first and insulate and MLV the exterior wall, then build room within a room with 1” gap between walls. Then add a bar channel and double layer 5/8 drywall with carpet glue you recommended. Add a mini split, install 2 doors, seal gaps and plug windows etc. Key thing is I’m a drummer and plan to keep as much sound as possible inside the shed (don’t want to bother our neighbors.) The shed is sitting on concrete blocks so I’ll need to do something with the subfloor. Any advice? Btw I’m a fellow church drummer too!! Love the channel. Just subscribed.
Thanks so much for checking out the channel and subscribing! Looks like you’ve got a big project ahead of you, but should be a lot of fun! Fortunately, since it’s free standing I think you’ll have a fairly easy time. As for the floor, from what I’m gathering I would think the easiest thing would be to skirt the sides into the ground. Rather than keeping it from going down, you’d be keeping it from going out. I’m only saying that because it sounds like the floor is already existing, correct?
@@JackofAllMinistries thanks for the reply! Yes, it’s free standing on top of concrete blocks. The floor is one sheet of 3/4” ply wood sitting on top of the floor joists. I figured it just needs more layers of mass. I saw a video of a guy who was converting a shed and he put one of those insulation foam boards in his subfloor layers to decouple the impact noises from the floor a bit. Sounds like either a really good idea or bad idea. Thoughts? Also the gap from the base of the shed to the ground is about 1-2’ max. Adding a skirt to the shed crossed my mind too. It would definitely help with trapping sounds but I was worried about letting the skirt rest on the ground because of rain water (mold and deterioration over time). Perhaps there’s a way to do that correctly but I’d have to leave a weep hole or something.. not sure. Any thoughts? Dude thank you!!!
@@michaelmccully821 so if you were going to do something to the subfloor I take it you’d probably pull up the plywood to gain access then? That might be easier - I didn’t really think about mold and stuff. Then again, an opening underneath definitely gives way for transfer - air sealing is always better. Honestly, I’m not sure what I would do there. I’d almost wonder if you could do concrete around the inside edges and maybe red guard it? I feel like we might be getting into hokey territory, so I’m just not sure. I’d love to learn what you end up doing and seeing how it works out.
@@JackofAllMinistries for sure I agree. Perhaps the best thing to focus on for now would be ripping up the current sheet of plywood to expose the studs. Maybe some insulation between the subfloor studs, then cover it with a few layers of wood, MLV, wood, then actual flooring. I’ll keep you posted for sure!! All of this effort will pay off as having the ability to practice, play and record drums anytime has been missing for 2.5 years. More importantly my 6 year old is very into drums right now. I would love to create a place where he can practice anytime too!
This is great. Thanks Dan for putting the time to share this knowledge with us. All of this came just in time for me as I am starting to work on planning my drum studio in my basement as well. My question is, did you try and/or have any considerations about using resilient channel on the walls as well, and how much of a sound dampening it can offer compared to the doubled walls? In my case it would be a means to avoid losing area by building the room inside the room. Thanks a lot!!!
I honestly think doubled walls have a much better result. I still hear some impact noise from upstairs and my drums are definitely audible. Keep in mind I opted not to use the specialized clips for the rez channel. I wonder how much of a difference it would have made. However, my two independent walls have very little sound transfer. It seems like all of my noise bleed in that area comes from the the door. There will be two more studio build videos, and in the last one I'll show all of my sound measurements. I took several db readings from around the house so that may be helpful for you. Thanks so much for the kind words!
would you still use the rockwall in the celign or go with the R-13 i need to do the same, for drums and want to try to control the vibration to the kitchen above,
It’s funny because I’ve read that R-13 is better, my test shows R-13 is better, but Rockwool just feels like it should be better. Keep in mind I didn’t test for really low frequencies so kitchen sounds might benefit from Rockwool but I just don’t know. I don’t think you’ll have regrets either way.
Hi.. I'm looking for ways to sound proof my little home office for live streaming. But it is small about 10ft by 10ft only. And the door is really close to the corner. Like the hinge is very close to the corner of the wall, like 3 inches. 😅 i am not sure how I can add a layer of 2nd wall for this. Also the room have built in closet.. So how can I or should I also add sound proof on that?
Looks like you have a little of a challenge there. I have a ton of questions and there are a lot of possible variables there, but I'll try to give a basic response from what I know. If the hinge is 3 inches from the corner, you should have plenty of room to add a 5/8" sheet of drywall, although you may need to trim down your door frame. The closet would need to either be layered up with drywall or you could try to just soundproof the door. Honestly the door itself is a barrier that prevents sound from getting in the closet and then out of the walls in the closet so you might be okay just sealing the door. Like I said, there are lots of variables but if you're focused on just blocking speech and stuff like that it shouldn't be too difficult, depending on flanking noise (places for sound to work around barriers - vents, crawlspaces, attics, etc) and stuff like that. If you shoot me an email at jackofallministries@gmail.com with some more details and maybe even some pictures I may be able to help a little more.
Thanks your videos have saved me several hundred dollars
So glad to hear that! Nice to know my work is helping others. With everything that's required, small decisions add up to big $$ pretty quick!
This is the best video series on UA-cam! I found your channel just in time as my buddy and I are planning to convert an outdoor shed into a recording studio. It’s 20x12’ with a slightly vaulted ceiling/roof. We are going to treat electrical first and insulate and MLV the exterior wall, then build room within a room with 1” gap between walls. Then add a bar channel and double layer 5/8 drywall with carpet glue you recommended. Add a mini split, install 2 doors, seal gaps and plug windows etc. Key thing is I’m a drummer and plan to keep as much sound as possible inside the shed (don’t want to bother our neighbors.) The shed is sitting on concrete blocks so I’ll need to do something with the subfloor. Any advice? Btw I’m a fellow church drummer too!! Love the channel. Just subscribed.
Thanks so much for checking out the channel and subscribing!
Looks like you’ve got a big project ahead of you, but should be a lot of fun! Fortunately, since it’s free standing I think you’ll have a fairly easy time.
As for the floor, from what I’m gathering I would think the easiest thing would be to skirt the sides into the ground. Rather than keeping it from going down, you’d be keeping it from going out. I’m only saying that because it sounds like the floor is already existing, correct?
@@JackofAllMinistries thanks for the reply! Yes, it’s free standing on top of concrete blocks. The floor is one sheet of 3/4” ply wood sitting on top of the floor joists. I figured it just needs more layers of mass. I saw a video of a guy who was converting a shed and he put one of those insulation foam boards in his subfloor layers to decouple the impact noises from the floor a bit. Sounds like either a really good idea or bad idea. Thoughts?
Also the gap from the base of the shed to the ground is about 1-2’ max. Adding a skirt to the shed crossed my mind too. It would definitely help with trapping sounds but I was worried about letting the skirt rest on the ground because of rain water (mold and deterioration over time). Perhaps there’s a way to do that correctly but I’d have to leave a weep hole or something.. not sure. Any thoughts? Dude thank you!!!
@@michaelmccully821 so if you were going to do something to the subfloor I take it you’d probably pull up the plywood to gain access then? That might be easier - I didn’t really think about mold and stuff. Then again, an opening underneath definitely gives way for transfer - air sealing is always better. Honestly, I’m not sure what I would do there. I’d almost wonder if you could do concrete around the inside edges and maybe red guard it? I feel like we might be getting into hokey territory, so I’m just not sure. I’d love to learn what you end up doing and seeing how it works out.
@@JackofAllMinistries for sure I agree. Perhaps the best thing to focus on for now would be ripping up the current sheet of plywood to expose the studs. Maybe some insulation between the subfloor studs, then cover it with a few layers of wood, MLV, wood, then actual flooring. I’ll keep you posted for sure!! All of this effort will pay off as having the ability to practice, play and record drums anytime has been missing for 2.5 years. More importantly my 6 year old is very into drums right now. I would love to create a place where he can practice anytime too!
It's a great step by step! Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
This is great. Thanks Dan for putting the time to share this knowledge with us. All of this came just in time for me as I am starting to work on planning my drum studio in my basement as well.
My question is, did you try and/or have any considerations about using resilient channel on the walls as well, and how much of a sound dampening it can offer compared to the doubled walls? In my case it would be a means to avoid losing area by building the room inside the room.
Thanks a lot!!!
I honestly think doubled walls have a much better result. I still hear some impact noise from upstairs and my drums are definitely audible. Keep in mind I opted not to use the specialized clips for the rez channel. I wonder how much of a difference it would have made. However, my two independent walls have very little sound transfer. It seems like all of my noise bleed in that area comes from the the door.
There will be two more studio build videos, and in the last one I'll show all of my sound measurements. I took several db readings from around the house so that may be helpful for you.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
@@JackofAllMinistries Good to know more in depth data about this build is coming... can't wait. Thanks a lot.
This is helping me so much on my journey of building my own studio in the upcoming months. Thank you very much!
My pleasure! Hope you're happy with the results in the end!
IB-1 clips are $2 each, more expensive clips work better at specific frequencies but are diminishing returns.
Really? I'll have to keep that in mind. Have you tried them?
What type of carpet glue doesn't harden? Thanks
The ones I know are Roberts 3095, and TEC Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Adhesive. I'm sure there are others, but that's what I'm familiar with.
would you still use the rockwall in the celign or go with the R-13 i need to do the same, for drums and want to try to control the vibration to the kitchen above,
It’s funny because I’ve read that R-13 is better, my test shows R-13 is better, but Rockwool just feels like it should be better. Keep in mind I didn’t test for really low frequencies so kitchen sounds might benefit from Rockwool but I just don’t know. I don’t think you’ll have regrets either way.
Hi.. I'm looking for ways to sound proof my little home office for live streaming. But it is small about 10ft by 10ft only. And the door is really close to the corner. Like the hinge is very close to the corner of the wall, like 3 inches. 😅 i am not sure how I can add a layer of 2nd wall for this. Also the room have built in closet.. So how can I or should I also add sound proof on that?
Looks like you have a little of a challenge there. I have a ton of questions and there are a lot of possible variables there, but I'll try to give a basic response from what I know.
If the hinge is 3 inches from the corner, you should have plenty of room to add a 5/8" sheet of drywall, although you may need to trim down your door frame. The closet would need to either be layered up with drywall or you could try to just soundproof the door. Honestly the door itself is a barrier that prevents sound from getting in the closet and then out of the walls in the closet so you might be okay just sealing the door. Like I said, there are lots of variables but if you're focused on just blocking speech and stuff like that it shouldn't be too difficult, depending on flanking noise (places for sound to work around barriers - vents, crawlspaces, attics, etc) and stuff like that. If you shoot me an email at jackofallministries@gmail.com with some more details and maybe even some pictures I may be able to help a little more.
..........
Right back atcha
So basically you just keep spending money
I guess you could say that! Isn't that every house project lol?!