@@genejaytre in nature things are one foot apart so just like that. If there is spot I give 1-2 ft gap. It depends if it’s a pecan tree it needs space but all fruit trees don’t need much space. Always feed organic material. Microchonzia, mulch, fish emulsion, worm castings are always your best friend. If the soil is healthy spacing doesn’t matter as plants will share nutrients. The blacker your soil is the more healthier it is. Soil is everything to success in an orchard. I had unhealthy clay in my entire backyard now in all mulch beds it’s pitch black and everything succeeds.
@@TheBusyGardener what is your climate because I live in New England and I don’t know if pomegranates will survive and come back after the following winter? I know apples will in this area
I tell people all the time that fruits and vegetables don't grow with specific spacing in nature. That's from tomatoes, peppers, to fruit trees. Your video has been helpful!!
This is a great video. I am an experienced gardener with a mini orchard of 13 trees and I was able to learn a lot from this video. It presented information in a simple informative way that filled in some of the gaps left by other videos on a similar topic.
Excellent video…Our lot is 5550sq Ft with 1700 sq Ft house. We have around 25 fruit trees some dwarf and some not so much. You confirmed what my plan was in keeping my trees to the height I want..We live in zone 10A.
Thanks! I like this idea! I have planted most of my apple and pear trees as espalier (a foot apart from compound walls), but I can only do so against the walls that receive direct sunlight. This arrangement will allow me to plant even more fruit trees!
I'm trying that Dave Wilson thing this year. I already have many trees. I just ordered 6 trees from Trees Of Antiquity. Doing 4 trees in one hole and put the other 2 in their own spot. Thanks for the good video.
Funny, I am slowly building the front to have a higher density. During all our lockdowns here in Melbourne we turned the front lawn into an orchard and now into a food forest setup. We are about to do a 2 or 3 close planting of apples (for some reason my 6-year-old daughter wants a golden apple lol I didn't plant one). In 60 sq metres trying to balance, trees, bushes, ground and annuals like pumpkins and peas has been a challenge lol. I have 7 trees at the moment, 5 multi grafts and wanting another 7 more lol
Looks great! I have similar plan with multiple trees, but I have to let them grow vertically instead. This is thanks to damn deer attack in Fairfax, Virginia, where I live. I am using metal fences around the trees that unfortunately make my orchard look ugly. I am hoping eventually the deer population will be gone forever due to hunting and road accidents. I hate them so much! Thanks for sharing!
I had been wondering if a regular sized tree which has not been grafted onto any dwarfing rootstock could still be maintained as small and you answered that question! Now I can plant some tiny trees in places where I never thought I could! I just planted 4 fruit trees 8 feet apart and the most difficult part for me is choosing how to prune them for desired size,
I had an opposite strategy on my fruit orchard, i bought 12 varieties of dwarf/grafted seedlings of tropical fruit trees many years back, and spaced them 4 or 5 ft apart only along the border/fence of my lawn, so i can use the main space for other functions like get togethers/car parking. . I let them grow dramaticallt for visual impact , hardly pruning them since i want that space to look like a forest park. I mulch but am too lazy to put them in a shredder to break them down easily. I hardly prune unless somebody volunteers to do it for me. Though you surely will be producing more fruits than i did, i find your method labor intensive. I got new ideas though from your video. Tnx.
Hi Gela, Thanks for sharing your method. When it comes to being labor intensive, I've found it's a trade-off. Each thing I do (or don't do) will affect my yield. I could get away with doing a lot less, but I (generally) really enjoy working on it and seeing how my care/pruning choices bear out. Pruning, thinning, feeding, etc. are all work, and it's all about what you're trying to accomplish. I would be driven a little nuts knowing I could have a better yield, or larger/tastier fruit. As busy as I am, I haven't found it to take tons of time or urgent attention (unlike a veggie garden).
Greetings from Nova Scotia, Canada! The most important thing you have said is that as backyard gardeners we do NOT need all that commercial orchard space for our fruit trees! I have known this now for several years and what I find most frustrating is that the planting instructions that come with all fruit trees are for commercial orchards! It is quite ironic that these instructions actually cause the nurseries to sell less fruit trees to the home gardener! Anyway take care and stay safe!
Fantastic video. I was inspired by the book "Grow a Little Fruit Tree". The author talks about the first cut that should be about knee high. My mini orchard, not as impressive as yours though, is in its 3rd leaf, has no fruits yet. Hoping this is the year. Thank you for showing yours!
Thanks, LAX! That sounds like the perfect book. I've heard this method referred to as growing a little fruiting bush. What types of fruit have you got planted?
I bought the book too. Live in North central AR on a ridge line. Planted our 15 little “sticks” this spring and they are doing amazingly well so far. But my friends were looking at it with very grim expressions like, hate to tell you, but… they were too kind to say anything. I did the solstice pruning to control the size. That’s when they really bushed out. I’ve dreamed of this for so long. It’s thrilling to be here in the first year growth. Hope I can keep them alive and healthy!
Well, I'm glad I came across this video, because I have been planting a 'fruit hedgerow' along the top of my sloping garden for the past 2 years, so that all the plants get the best of the sun. Lately, I've been wondering whether it had been a good idea to plant the apples several feet apart with smaller fruit bushes squeezed in between. I plan to keep the apple trees quite short (so I can reach), but still had nagging doubts whether all those gooseberries, currants, etc were just a little too close to the apples. (I do intend to mulch heavily afterwards, using this fantastic mass of beech mast I have here, so there's no question of soil fertility being a problem). Having seen this and seen how close together the plants are, I am sure I'm on the right track. Thanks!
Hi Debbie! It's amazing how well plants can grow in less space than commercial orchards would seem to indicate. The one thought on your planting between trees is to ideally have sunlight hitting the smaller plants as well. Planting them slightly forward of the trees so they get good sunlight may be something to consider. Happy gardening :)
Hi, we live on 20 acres with half that available for planting. My goal for our orchard is to have plenty of fruit to preserve via canning or dehydrating so that our large family (10 at this point) can enjoy the fruit year round. I plan to plant 2 or three trees of each fruit and don’t want them huge. At what height should I top them for the end result to be approximately 10’? How close should I plant them?
How cool! You've got a TON of space, so you don't need to plant in as high density as we do. I generally space my clusters of trees 10-12 feet apart from each other, and the trees within the planting are spaced about 2.5-3 feet from trunk to trunk. I top my deciduous trees around 2-2.5 feet, and they have no issue growing to 10 feet high
Thanks so much! This is an awesome video. Next spring I am planting out a backyard orchard and plan to do it just like this. It was great so see it in someone's yard!
I found this video very informative and encouraging We have an area just about the same size as your test orchard. And i was thinking I'd only be able to get 4 varieties in there, at best. Very very encouraged! Thank you.
I'm late to the game here. I realize this video is several years old. Just wanted to say thank you. Its very helpful. Also, one question for clarity: How do you ensure good pollination. If early, mid, and late season are close together, i am guessing the flowering periods don't overlap too much. Do you have to have other trees of the same seasonality close by?
Hi Paula, thanks so much for watching! For trees that require pollination from a compatible Neighbor, the blooms do you have to overlap. For the self fruitful varieties, this can help give a larger crop but isn't required. It's a little bit hard to tell in my orchard because I've got lots of overlap. I tried to place compatible pollinators close to each other to help
I really wish I would have found this video before I planted all my trees...LAST WEEKEND. 😢 I can probably still do it adding to what I just put out though.
Hi Angela! That has been my story so many times. If I could replant the entire thing over again I would have done a lot the same, but changed some key things like which trees to group. It doesn't solve your current issue, but like you said (and like I've also done) you can plant any new trees closer to your current plantings to increase the density. Thanks for sharing!
Will be planting ten different heirloom fruit trees in the Catskill mountain region in New York on about a third of an acre. This is the perfect solution. Great information/video.
Man this fantastic a great and blessed lay out for fruit tree growing.Iam a tropical fruit fan ..! I want to try three different guava trees and mango trees along with peach trees. Thank you so much for sharing your dedication and support !
@@TheBusyGardener Thank you so much for getting back with me. What kind of hand pruners are the best? What do you use? Money is not a problem really just want something that will last, thank you again, Cathy By the way they will be used for pruning tree branches Apple, fig, pear I appreciate your knowledge and your generosity.
Great video, very illuminating! I struggle with pruning so your technique and explanation was helpful. Do dwarf varieties need to be chosen to prune low? Thank you!
As I reflected on what I saw in your video I had a question: 'at some point you're likely to tired frim this high maintenance system, what is your plan should that occur? Will you thin them, replant, or let survival of the fittest thing decide?
Hey Truck Taxi! That's a great question. 3 parts to my answer: 1) This system is less high maintenance than I make it. In other words, I'm working on things more than they need to be. The average backyard guy could get away with a lot less than I do. 2) Keeping the trees pruned smaller means a lot less work/hassle in other ways (no ladders, easier harvest, etc) so there is a bit of a tradeoff. 3) I have 5 kids. If they wanna eat the fruit, they're gonna have to learn to care for it. So that's my long term plan, lol.
Hello Cameron, just found your wonderful channel and subscribed straight away after seeing you with Kevin the Epic Gardener. Now watching back to back episodes on your miniature fruit trees as I planted my first 4 on Saturday 🥰
Your video gave me some good ideas for grafting... earliest fruiting on the north (in northern hemisphere) and latest on the south. I want to do an apple+pear variety tree and peach/plum/apricot variety tree... maybe applicable to grapes too. Good stuff.
Thanks for watching, Technosaurus! Multi-budded trees are essentially the same concept, just on a single tree. I haven't tried grafting though I may go for a multi-stone, multi-apple sometime just to see how many fruit I can get on a single tree. If you think of it, report back in with how it goes.
Very inspiring. Thanks! Question1: I live in Minnesota. I have planted 2 fruit trees for my zone (4B) yesterday Aug 24 - (a contender peach and a north star cherry) , and I would like to keep them about 5 1/2 feet tall forever (right now they are about 5 feet tall out from the nursery). I am about to make that big cut of the main central trunk at about knee high as you described - leaving a few buds / branches under which hopefully will start a "cup" shape for the trees. I am afraid to make the cut and weaken the trees enough that they won't make it through winter here - should I be worried? is that "big" cut to make the trees small hard on the tree's health and root system? Question2: the main central branch is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter.Is cutting with a reciprocating saw ok to make a clean cut? should a "tree pruning sealer" applied on the cut? Maybe you or one of your viewers can answer my questions. Thank you all!
Hey Fab! Q1) Make the cut! New trees are fine to make this sort of cut without any stress. In fact, making this cut upon planting gives the tree less canopy for the roots to support as they get established! A similar cut on an established tree could kill it Q2) The cleanest pruning cut is made using bypass pruners or loppers. Anything that creates a jagged or rough cut invites disease and is harder for a tree to heal. That said, a reciprocating saw can be used for pruning cuts but is secondary in preference to shears or loppers
Hi Rose! Our later apples are just starting to produce, so I'll have to see how long they hang on the tree. I know in SoCal, our warmer temps seem to move the harvest timeline up pretty significantly compared to cooler locales.
Thanks. I feel scared to cut the tree. I feel like I'm gonna kill it. I've only been growing my citrus and fruit trees in containers but since my local nursery isn't really selling dwarf varieties anymore I need to learn to do this and probably thinking to put some in ground in my front yard. I'm wondering though do I need to cut to knee height ? Will it still be okay to cut at waist height ?
Tree size and fruit size are independent of each other. On a mature tree (regardless of size), you can most easily control fruit size through thinning the number of fruit. I've got a vid on fruit thinning!
Do you get a fair apple harvest? I didn't know you need two apple trees to cross pollinate. Also, that you for saying to go with a low nitrogen fertilizer, to keep the explosive foliage growth. I have a small back yard and need to add an apple tree and thanks to this video, I feel confident about keeping it low and close. 1 million thanks for posting this video.
I'm glad this video helped! Frankly, the apples in my setting haven't done exceptionally well, other than my low-chill apples like "Anna" and "Dorsett Golden". I think it may have to do with insufficient sun, as it begins getting shade around noon. Apples can happily be planted in full sun. My dad has a similar apple in full sun (similar soil), and it has been more productive.
@@TheBusyGardener I purchased a second apple tree from my local Lowe's this morning; a honeycrisp variety. My first apple tree is in full sun and seems to be growing new shoots/stems/branches from the base at soil level. I live in North Texas (D-FW) and I have heavy red clay soil in my back yard. I'm just glad to know that apple trees can be pruned low and planted close together and still get some apples. I'll keep you posted.
@@maccliff2115 Great! side note that teh branches coming from near the soil level are likely "suckers" and should be removed. Here's the vid: ua-cam.com/video/qqo77oeDm5c/v-deo.html
This is SO helpful to see how you planted and pruned these trees. I'm still kind of confused about dwarf tree pruning though... If you cut at knee height, will the tree still grow to 10' tall? or more like 6' (at full maturity)? I need to figure that out before I prune mine. Thank you so much for sharing your garden with us.
So glad it helped! Cut down at knee height, these trees will still reach their full mature height. This topping is primarily done to encourage a different growth habit. So, I suppose it's possible that a dwarf tree that would be 23 feet may not reach that exact beight because we've removed a central leader and opted for an open center pruning. That said, most of our deciduous trees in full sun easily reach that 10' height and need to be kept there through pruning. Good luck!
Thanks for the info your shared here. What a great little orchard you've got going. I, wonder if you could point to any downsides of this approach? i.e. significantly more work in pruning to keep the trees in check or anything like that?
Hi Newpatch! I think it's more an issue of trade-offs than downsides. For the home gardener, this approach is actually a bit LESS work because the trees aren't getting too big, you don't have to drag a ladder out, less fruit to manage, etc. That being said, with smaller trees you will get less fruit than a full size tree (30ft tall instead of 8-10ft), you do make more cuts because you have access to the whole canopy. On the whole, this approach is especially well suited for the backyard grower.
Great Video. Just I was looking for. I'm trying to plant fruit tress in a 30 feet by 6 feet stripe. How far apart do you plant two different spices? I want to get the maximum usage from that spaces with different varieties.
If you're wanting just a strip, I think you can still get away with planting 2-3 in a hole, 2-3 feet from trunk to trunk. The closer they are together, the more work they'll be and the less fruit you'll get from each variety, but you'll have more varieties. So it's up to you on that one.
Ilove your methods and concepts! i just bought my first home with 30 mature fruit trees but most are WAY too tall to reach the friut. Can you prune older mature trees and not hurt the trees? i'd like to restructure some of them to lower the fruit access but dont want to hurt the mature tree growth and fruiting. i'm nearby in Riverside. hit 120 degrees last summer.
JuicingGardener (Sheryl Mann) hi Sheryl! Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. A couple questions: 1) How old are the trees? 2) How tall are they? In short, you’d need to make whatever height reductions over 3 seasons, which will severely affect and limit your fruiting for the next few years. If your trees are older, or if you don’t want to sacrifice that many years of fruit with uncertain results, you may consider starting over with new trees. That might sound drastic, but you’ll have fruit sooner, and you’ll be able to develop a canopy at your desired height right away. If you decide to go keep your mature trees, here is an excellent resource from Dave Wilson Nursery: www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/growing-fruits-and-nuts/cultural-practices/taming-big-old-tree
@@TheBusyGardener super valuable info thanks! Some are easily 25+ feet tall. our avo tree is 60+ feet tall. we have room to add more trees and keep them shorter, reachable. our big old ones still fruit well. i like your idea of taking 3 years to modify them slowly to give them breathing room.
oh we just bought the 1979 house. it was built on orange groves so have no idea age, but they COULD be 50+ years old. i'm too new at fruit trees to determine their age
So, are your current trees all Citrus and avocado? If so, height is truly not as big a deal, as you can pick much of the fruit with a fruit picking basket (they aren't as delicate as peaches, for example). Citrus puts most of the fruit in the bottom 2/3 of the tree, so you won't sacrifice too much fruit by bringing the canopy down a few feet. You're blessed to have the option to keep trees and add others. Have anything in mind you're considering adding?
I just subbed your channel, and am looking forward to seeing more of your adventure. Quite a different climate experience out here than in the Midwest! :)
That’s awesome! Very nice and helpful. Do you have any comments about deer pressure or other things a home gardener/orchardist would want to think about in zone 7? Thanks!
I haven't got a lot of experience with deer, so can't offer any real help! Given that much of the fruiting canopy is within deer range, I imagine that some sort of physical barrier around your orchard would make the most sense.
Just found your channel it's great clear explanation & you really offer tremendous encouragement. I wound love to use this concept too but instead of planting the fruit trees in the ground directly I'm planting them in bottomless containers because my native soil is poor & rocky so I figure I'll give them a headstart In good rich soil plus the container will help to dwarf the tree too but would you still suggest planting similar varieties together as opposed to completely different varieties?
Wow, thanks for the uplifting words, Geriann! A few thoughts on that: 1) I am a big advocate of planting directly in the ground. A container planted tree will need more attention, and is more sensitive. 2) your soul may be better than you think! Putting a solid mulch layer on top and feeding your trees in early Feb, early April, and late June will give them everything they need. I've also got incredibly rocky soil. 3) I suppose it's possible to multiplayer in a container, but that's a really small space for all that root structure to make use of. I've got a handful of planting videos that Can help you on this journey!
@@TheBusyGardener ok i understand what you're saying about container planting but i have the bottom of my containers open to the ground so eventually they will root into the ground the earthworms & other nutrients will be accessed because by taking off the bottom of the container creates an open system similarly to directly planting in the ground plus having a good part of the rootball above the surface prevents it from getting waterlogged in our rainy season. Here in the tropics in the West Indies we only get 2 seasons a wet & a dry season almost half of the year. My soil seems to be rocky & loamy not a very good combination drainage is poor in the rainy season & as you know most plants & fruit trees dont like "wet feet".
Thanks, Christopher! It's worked out really well for us, and I think makes the whole fruit tree thing manageable for the average person. Have you got any fruit trees planted?
Great video! Will this work on a pear or plum tree that has been grafted with a few varieties? Could cutting the tree possibly remove one or two of the different varieties?
If you have a multi-budded tree and you cut to knee high, you might accidentally remove desired types of fruit from the tree. Those trees usually have each type of fruit on them marked, so you can definitely reduce size without accidentally cutting off a branch for an entire type of fruit
We've found that these particular trees aren't as productive because of the serious shade they get from a couple directions. The close-planted trees in our main orchard (all the other vids) absolutely BOOM with consistent sunshine
I have a some peach trees I want to do this with. Have you ever incorporated the Elen White method with high density planting? If so, could you refer me to your video or a link you may know of with these two methods combined? Thank you and I do enjoy your channel.
@@TheBusyGardener oh I see and understand that would be quite labor intensive. I believe I will be moving forward with the EGW method and combining High Density Planting. We have heavy clay here in GA so I'll be renting an auger. Thank you for the reply and best wishes from my family to yours.
Hey Busy Gardener,I have a friend at the north end of Euclid in Upland. He has a few orchards going. So tropical, others more stonefruits and Avo's, passion fruits etc. Still trying to get him to get a ton of wood chips as you have. Looks great though. Your spread looks very nice and well put together.
Hi Viper, San Antonio Heights (or North Upland) is such a great area for growing fruit - much of it was citrus groves for many years. Tell your friend to get busy with mulch! lol Maybe your friend and I need to shoot an episode of TBG over at their place.
I just purchased a few fruit trees. My 2 Asian pears are the tallest but I’m nervous about cutting them down before they have established strong roots. What do you suggest? They’re still in their original pot because I need the roots to grow.
What low nitrogen fertilizer do you use? I have 3 fruit trees coming next week that I am going to plant this way. My family thinks I’m nuts bc I have a tiny yard and I’m planting 3 trees. 😆
Hi Micki! This method IS a lot different than what most people think of with tall, shading, fruit trees. I use GroPower "Flower N Bloom" 3-12-12 (manufactured locally in Southern California). Any low Nitrogen, high Potassium, High Phosphorus feed should accomplish the same goals. Here's a vid that may help flesh out how to feed your trees. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/O_aNpUkVEng/v-deo.html
@@walkbyfaithfamily9177 You can plant them REALLY close with success, though they seem to do best with 3-4 feet between them, from trunk to trunk. How close did you plant them?
The Busy Gardener - I put the apple tree (dwarf) 4 feet from a peach tree (standard). I ended up moving it more like 6 feet away. I still have 2 more trees to plant though- another apple and another peach. Could I still use that hole I dug??🤷♀️. They are spaced in a diamond pattern if that helps.
I want to try the knee-high, open-canopy style of pruning. I notice your tree trunks are at least arm-thick. My new trees are finger-thick. Do you have an opinion as to when I can start pruning them? (At what size? And if ok to leave just the trunk with no leaves?)
I haven’t got your beautiful climate. I live in N Ireland and just bought 3 cherry. And 3 apple trees. Could I plant them like you did in an allotment?
Hello from the Carolinas.Thanks for sharing your 🍏&🍊orchard. Pretty amazing the range of fruits you grow.We do some patio gardening. In the past, we’ve had success with a kumquat tree which fruited well every year until a really severe frost killed it. Our arbesquena olive survived that same frost, but since it sets flowers in late autumn it has never succeeded in fruiting outdoors. Have you considered growing a coffee bush? As a gardenia relative, it has pretty fragrant white flowers.🌿
Yes, the olive is self fruiting. It is such an attractive tree. The coffee ☕️ 🌱is still quite small. It will be an indoor plant until after Mid-April our last frost date. We’re so eager for Spring. Soon we’ll plant peas outside. To give them a head start on germination we decided to soak them and sprout them. Once we know how much space they’ll take in the veg plots we’ll plant 🥕 and radishes and 🥬. Happy gardening!
@@TheBusyGardener it will depend on what rootstock he his for instance you can get away planting m27 root stocks with as little as 3.5 feet apart I have done something similar to you but with less space I have 6 trees I have 2 semi dwrf 1 m9 and rest m27 hoping to make some cider in a a year or two as they are fully mature after 3/4 yrs(m27)
@@kathrynwoodall7045 Hi Kathryn! Pollination is better with high density planting because you've got trees that much closer. The bees don't have to make too far a jump to pollinate other varieties when they're within just a few feet.
Hi Ernesto! I used these tags: www.amazon.com/dp/B01LP3KFWS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GkOpCbH29AQQP I also include a strip of flag tape so I can easily locate them when there are a lot of leaves. Info I include are the: Species - Variety, and in the top right I put the year planted, and the rootstock, if known.
old dave ! We’re still a few months away from any stone fruit coming on, but you can spot lots of citrus in my fall update here: ua-cam.com/video/JeCeDHGj-ak/v-deo.html
@@TheBusyGardener were the fruits after you severely pruned the trees, thanks if I were you, I would graft some of those trees, it's very easy, also it's going to be interesting how the trees make out without the nitrogen
@@olddave4833 The fruit was limited, for sure, but it was a hit I expected, and did this pruning for the long term structure of the tree. Returning the structure for more compact and bushy, vs long and spindly. Those same trees have a ton of fruiting wood on them for this next growing season, so it'll be interesting to watch. The trees are still getting nitrogen in this feed and the breakdown of organic material, just less they would with a high "N" fertilizer. As far as grafting, I'm seriously considering trying it out when the trees mature a little.
Hi Cameron, I just discovered your channel today, so good! I've watched a few of your videos on how to setup a small backyard orchad and they've been great. I was wondering though, about how many apples do you get from the tress when they have such a low profile? I'd just like to have enough to make a batch of cider as well as some for eating if possible and wanted get an idea of what would be possible in the space I have. Thanks again for putting your channel together, its been so helpful.
Thanks, Aaron! The biggest issue with my apple production hasn't been low yield for the size, but just very slow vigor in general. Aside from the incredibly productive early low-chill cultivars like "Anna" and "Dorsett Golden", I've had very little yield. I think the lack of full sun is playing a part in that lack of vigor. My dad has a fuji planted in only the last 2 years, and he's got a solid fruitset. Aside from any soil difference, his is in full sun all day.
So I'm a novice at this. And I'm dying for cherry trees. Can I plant them along an outer fence line and the roots won't spread out too far? And I believe the varieties I'm looking into require cross pollination. Can I plant them close together or would further apart like 10 feet across the yard be better?
Cherries are terrific! Roots will spread with cherries, but does the fence line matter if the roots stay beneath the soil? Most cherries require a compatible pollinator in order to set fruit. When it comes to pollination, the closer, the better. 10 feet is ok too
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Yup. Been doing this for years and always have best yard. What I always tell people is-does the forest have trees spaced out? The jungle?
It boggles the mind, until you look EVERYWHERE ELSE in the natural world 😂
That's an encouragement. Thank you 👍👍
So how far do you space yours?
@@genejaytre in nature things are one foot apart so just like that. If there is spot I give 1-2 ft gap. It depends if it’s a pecan tree it needs space but all fruit trees don’t need much space. Always feed organic material. Microchonzia, mulch, fish emulsion, worm castings are always your best friend. If the soil is healthy spacing doesn’t matter as plants will share nutrients. The blacker your soil is the more healthier it is. Soil is everything to success in an orchard. I had unhealthy clay in my entire backyard now in all mulch beds it’s pitch black and everything succeeds.
@@TheBusyGardener what is your climate because I live in New England and I don’t know if pomegranates will survive and come back after the following winter? I know apples will in this area
I tell people all the time that fruits and vegetables don't grow with specific spacing in nature. That's from tomatoes, peppers, to fruit trees. Your video has been helpful!!
Very true!
They are the perfect height for deer and squirrels.
This is a great video. I am an experienced gardener with a mini orchard of 13 trees and I was able to learn a lot from this video. It presented information in a simple informative way that filled in some of the gaps left by other videos on a similar topic.
Glad it was helpful! This type of growing is scary to lots of people, so I'm grateful it provided some additional info :)
Excellent video…Our lot is 5550sq Ft with 1700 sq Ft house. We have around 25 fruit trees some dwarf and some not so much. You confirmed what my plan was in keeping my trees to the height I want..We live in zone 10A.
Thanks! I like this idea! I have planted most of my apple and pear trees as espalier (a foot apart from compound walls), but I can only do so against the walls that receive direct sunlight. This arrangement will allow me to plant even more fruit trees!
I love it!
You got me at “Bla bla bla bla bla!” Just the questions I wanted answered 😅. Thank you for the tips 👍🏼and for the laugh 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for this video. I have been trying to find someone that were doing this with regular sized trees. Excellent.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching, Anna
I'm trying that Dave Wilson thing this year. I already have many trees. I just ordered 6 trees from Trees Of Antiquity. Doing 4 trees in one hole and put the other 2 in their own spot. Thanks for the good video.
Cool! What trees are you getting? Apple? What has done the best for you in your home orchard?
Funny, I am slowly building the front to have a higher density. During all our lockdowns here in Melbourne we turned the front lawn into an orchard and now into a food forest setup. We are about to do a 2 or 3 close planting of apples (for some reason my 6-year-old daughter wants a golden apple lol I didn't plant one). In 60 sq metres trying to balance, trees, bushes, ground and annuals like pumpkins and peas has been a challenge lol. I have 7 trees at the moment, 5 multi grafts and wanting another 7 more lol
I love that! Sounds like you also got bitten by the bug 😂
@@TheBusyGardener yep lol, just ordered 3 more multi grafts, for a total of 10 more varieties lol, it's a problem lol
What multi graft trees do you have , my wife and I have a 4 pear 4 apple 4 cherry and 4 pluot tree
Love this! Planting different varieties with different harvest times close together is brilliant.
Great videos! Thank you. I’m also planting high density. Great to see others using it in practice.
Thanks for tuning in! What have you got planted that you feel is working the best in your high density planting?
This is exactly the video I needed to find. Thank you for all the information.
Glad I could help!
Looks great! I have similar plan with multiple trees, but I have to let them grow vertically instead. This is thanks to damn deer attack in Fairfax, Virginia, where I live. I am using metal fences around the trees that unfortunately make my orchard look ugly. I am hoping eventually the deer population will be gone forever due to hunting and road accidents. I hate them so much! Thanks for sharing!
I had been wondering if a regular sized tree which has not been grafted onto any dwarfing rootstock could still be maintained as small and you answered that question! Now I can plant some tiny trees in places where I never thought I could! I just planted 4 fruit trees 8 feet apart and the most difficult part for me is choosing how to prune them for desired size,
I had an opposite strategy on my fruit orchard, i bought 12 varieties of dwarf/grafted seedlings of tropical fruit trees many years back, and spaced them 4 or 5 ft apart only along the border/fence of my lawn, so i can use the main space for other functions like get togethers/car parking. . I let them grow dramaticallt for visual impact , hardly pruning them since i want that space to look like a forest park. I mulch but am too lazy to put them in a shredder to break them down easily. I hardly prune unless somebody volunteers to do it for me. Though you surely will be producing more fruits than i did, i find your method labor intensive. I got new ideas though from your video. Tnx.
Hi Gela, Thanks for sharing your method. When it comes to being labor intensive, I've found it's a trade-off. Each thing I do (or don't do) will affect my yield. I could get away with doing a lot less, but I (generally) really enjoy working on it and seeing how my care/pruning choices bear out. Pruning, thinning, feeding, etc. are all work, and it's all about what you're trying to accomplish. I would be driven a little nuts knowing I could have a better yield, or larger/tastier fruit. As busy as I am, I haven't found it to take tons of time or urgent attention (unlike a veggie garden).
Exactly you’re just a lazy pos
Good info you dont need dwarf root stock
Ah yes! A miyawaki orchard!
Excellent strategy for home gardeners like me. I don't need high yields. Thanks for letting me understand some thinking out of the box. Wow. Thanks.
It changes the backyard grower's game!
Greetings from Nova Scotia, Canada! The most important thing you have said is that as backyard gardeners we do NOT need all that commercial orchard space for our fruit trees! I have known this now for several years and what I find most frustrating is that the planting instructions that come with all fruit trees are for commercial orchards! It is quite ironic that these instructions actually cause the nurseries to sell less fruit trees to the home gardener!
Anyway take care and stay safe!
So true! It's unfortunately not a great fit for the home grower when they get commercial advice!
Four words...YOU ARE A BOSS!
Fantastic video. I was inspired by the book "Grow a Little Fruit Tree". The author talks about the first cut that should be about knee high. My mini orchard, not as impressive as yours though, is in its 3rd leaf, has no fruits yet. Hoping this is the year. Thank you for showing yours!
Thanks, LAX! That sounds like the perfect book. I've heard this method referred to as growing a little fruiting bush. What types of fruit have you got planted?
I just ordered and read that book! Ima little late on a few trees and will be attempting a "correction prune" this winter.
I bought the book too. Live in North central AR on a ridge line. Planted our 15 little “sticks” this spring and they are doing amazingly well so far. But my friends were looking at it with very grim expressions like, hate to tell you, but… they were too kind to say anything. I did the solstice pruning to control the size. That’s when they really bushed out. I’ve dreamed of this for so long. It’s thrilling to be here in the first year growth. Hope I can keep them alive and healthy!
Wow, I had never considered high density fruit trees! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Glad I could help! They're great!
very informative and generous video about fruit trees in small space. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I appreciate that encouragement, and hope the vid helped!
Well, I'm glad I came across this video, because I have been planting a 'fruit hedgerow' along the top of my sloping garden for the past 2 years, so that all the plants get the best of the sun.
Lately, I've been wondering whether it had been a good idea to plant the apples several feet apart with smaller fruit bushes squeezed in between.
I plan to keep the apple trees quite short (so I can reach), but still had nagging doubts whether all those gooseberries, currants, etc were just a little too close to the apples. (I do intend to mulch heavily afterwards, using this fantastic mass of beech mast I have here, so there's no question of soil fertility being a problem).
Having seen this and seen how close together the plants are, I am sure I'm on the right track. Thanks!
Hi Debbie! It's amazing how well plants can grow in less space than commercial orchards would seem to indicate. The one thought on your planting between trees is to ideally have sunlight hitting the smaller plants as well. Planting them slightly forward of the trees so they get good sunlight may be something to consider. Happy gardening :)
Hi, we live on 20 acres with half that available for planting. My goal for our orchard is to have plenty of fruit to preserve via canning or dehydrating so that our large family (10 at this point) can enjoy the fruit year round. I plan to plant 2 or three trees of each fruit and don’t want them huge. At what height should I top them for the end result to be approximately 10’? How close should I plant them?
How cool! You've got a TON of space, so you don't need to plant in as high density as we do. I generally space my clusters of trees 10-12 feet apart from each other, and the trees within the planting are spaced about 2.5-3 feet from trunk to trunk. I top my deciduous trees around 2-2.5 feet, and they have no issue growing to 10 feet high
I saw it few years back. I think good to try.
I just put in my 2nd apple tree about 6ft away from my first apple tree. I’ll keep you posted.
Well done! Let me know how it turns out
Thanks so much! This is an awesome video. Next spring I am planting out a backyard orchard and plan to do it just like this. It was great so see it in someone's yard!
I found this video very informative and encouraging
We have an area just about the same size as your test orchard. And i was thinking I'd only be able to get 4 varieties in there, at best. Very very encouraged! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! It's surprising how much you can grow in a small space like this 😀
Thank you. Exactly what I need! I’m inspired to try this out
You can do it!
I'm late to the game here. I realize this video is several years old. Just wanted to say thank you. Its very helpful. Also, one question for clarity: How do you ensure good pollination. If early, mid, and late season are close together, i am guessing the flowering periods don't overlap too much. Do you have to have other trees of the same seasonality close by?
Hi Paula, thanks so much for watching! For trees that require pollination from a compatible Neighbor, the blooms do you have to overlap. For the self fruitful varieties, this can help give a larger crop but isn't required. It's a little bit hard to tell in my orchard because I've got lots of overlap. I tried to place compatible pollinators close to each other to help
I really wish I would have found this video before I planted all my trees...LAST WEEKEND. 😢 I can probably still do it adding to what I just put out though.
Hi Angela! That has been my story so many times. If I could replant the entire thing over again I would have done a lot the same, but changed some key things like which trees to group. It doesn't solve your current issue, but like you said (and like I've also done) you can plant any new trees closer to your current plantings to increase the density. Thanks for sharing!
Will be planting ten different heirloom fruit trees in the Catskill mountain region in New York on about a third of an acre. This is the perfect solution. Great information/video.
That is awesome! I'm honored to help guide a small part of your adventure.
@@TheBusyGardener I would welcome all the help I can get. This is the first time that I am doing this so I want to do it right.
Thank you!
Man this fantastic a great and blessed lay out for fruit tree growing.Iam a tropical fruit fan ..! I want to try three different guava trees and mango trees along with peach trees. Thank you so much for sharing your dedication and support !
Thank you! I've got a cluster of 3 guavas planted using this same method. They're doing great!
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much great video😃 I really learned a lot👍🏽
So glad it helped! 😊
Great info Thank you! Hope you made a video on pruning, and how often you can prune.
Thanks for watching! I've got a handful of pruning videos on this playlist that should help. ua-cam.com/play/PLScRNuJpsSkxX6m7IuTsndsw71PA5aaJD.html
@@TheBusyGardener Thank you so much for getting back with me. What kind of hand pruners are the best? What do you use? Money is not a problem really just want something that will last, thank you again, Cathy By the way they will be used for pruning tree branches Apple, fig, pear I appreciate your knowledge and your generosity.
Great video, very illuminating! I struggle with pruning so your technique and explanation was helpful. Do dwarf varieties need to be chosen to prune low? Thank you!
Do you have any photos with them in full growth and during Harvest I recently planted 16 in my front yard
As I reflected on what I saw in your video I had a question: 'at some point you're likely to tired frim this high maintenance system, what is your plan should that occur? Will you thin them, replant, or let survival of the fittest thing decide?
Hey Truck Taxi! That's a great question. 3 parts to my answer: 1) This system is less high maintenance than I make it. In other words, I'm working on things more than they need to be. The average backyard guy could get away with a lot less than I do. 2) Keeping the trees pruned smaller means a lot less work/hassle in other ways (no ladders, easier harvest, etc) so there is a bit of a tradeoff. 3) I have 5 kids. If they wanna eat the fruit, they're gonna have to learn to care for it. So that's my long term plan, lol.
m
I have 1 pear tree that's 7 year's old I feed it watered down urine once a week it produced over 100 fruits last year.
Sounds gross, but it IS fertilizer. Too much urine though, and it'll start sprouting "pees". lol
@@TheBusyGardener I stop feeding them a month before harvest they taste really nice better than brought pears.
@@TheBusyGardener hahahahaaaaaa
People do that with lemon trees to get good fruits. Don't see anything wrong with that.
Hello Cameron, just found your wonderful channel and subscribed straight away after seeing you with Kevin the Epic Gardener. Now watching back to back episodes on your miniature fruit trees as I planted my first 4 on Saturday 🥰
It's so good to have you! You've been infected with the tree bug, and it only gets worse from here! 😂
@@TheBusyGardener 🤣🤣🤣
Your video gave me some good ideas for grafting... earliest fruiting on the north (in northern hemisphere) and latest on the south. I want to do an apple+pear variety tree and peach/plum/apricot variety tree... maybe applicable to grapes too.
Good stuff.
Thanks for watching, Technosaurus! Multi-budded trees are essentially the same concept, just on a single tree. I haven't tried grafting though I may go for a multi-stone, multi-apple sometime just to see how many fruit I can get on a single tree. If you think of it, report back in with how it goes.
Very inspiring. Thanks!
Question1: I live in Minnesota. I have planted 2 fruit trees for my zone (4B) yesterday Aug 24 - (a contender peach and a north star cherry) , and I would like to keep them about 5 1/2 feet tall forever (right now they are about 5 feet tall out from the nursery). I am about to make that big cut of the main central trunk at about knee high as you described - leaving a few buds / branches under which hopefully will start a "cup" shape for the trees. I am afraid to make the cut and weaken the trees enough that they won't make it through winter here - should I be worried? is that "big" cut to make the trees small hard on the tree's health and root system?
Question2: the main central branch is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter.Is cutting with a reciprocating saw ok to make a clean cut? should a "tree pruning sealer" applied on the cut?
Maybe you or one of your viewers can answer my questions.
Thank you all!
Hey Fab! Q1) Make the cut! New trees are fine to make this sort of cut without any stress. In fact, making this cut upon planting gives the tree less canopy for the roots to support as they get established! A similar cut on an established tree could kill it
Q2) The cleanest pruning cut is made using bypass pruners or loppers. Anything that creates a jagged or rough cut invites disease and is harder for a tree to heal. That said, a reciprocating saw can be used for pruning cuts but is secondary in preference to shears or loppers
Thanks I live in Minnesota and have just purchased some trees and was wondering the same thing
Brilliant and inspirational. . Thanks
You can pick a granny smith in january , i have done so. September is a pretty early apple.
Hi Rose! Our later apples are just starting to produce, so I'll have to see how long they hang on the tree. I know in SoCal, our warmer temps seem to move the harvest timeline up pretty significantly compared to cooler locales.
Going to try this with canistel, jackfruit, soursop, and sweetsop in zone 10b south Florida
Wow, that's a combo I've never come across! Will jackfruit produce on trees that small?
@@TheBusyGardener there’s some dwarf varieties, but I’m sure it still gets quite big
Thank you about your video. Have you good day. 💐😀👍🌺✈️
Oh, how I wish that I could have seen this video before planting most of my trees.
Oh, Carol... I know that feeling. I've got things I wish I'd done very differently.
Man! I was thinking this would be possible in my corner of the yard I’ve looked at making part of the garden!
Totally an option for small areas!
Can you do an update on the trees that are close or show when they at their peak
Thanks. I feel scared to cut the tree. I feel like I'm gonna kill it. I've only been growing my citrus and fruit trees in containers but since my local nursery isn't really selling dwarf varieties anymore I need to learn to do this and probably thinking to put some in ground in my front yard. I'm wondering though do I need to cut to knee height ? Will it still be okay to cut at waist height ?
Thanks for the informative video. My question is are the fruits size proportionate to the tree size or do you can big fruits from those small trees?
Tree size and fruit size are independent of each other. On a mature tree (regardless of size), you can most easily control fruit size through thinning the number of fruit. I've got a vid on fruit thinning!
Do you get a fair apple harvest? I didn't know you need two apple trees to cross pollinate.
Also, that you for saying to go with a low nitrogen fertilizer, to keep the explosive foliage growth. I have a small back yard and need to add an apple tree and thanks to this video, I feel confident about keeping it low and close.
1 million thanks for posting this video.
I'm glad this video helped! Frankly, the apples in my setting haven't done exceptionally well, other than my low-chill apples like "Anna" and "Dorsett Golden". I think it may have to do with insufficient sun, as it begins getting shade around noon. Apples can happily be planted in full sun. My dad has a similar apple in full sun (similar soil), and it has been more productive.
@@TheBusyGardener
I purchased a second apple tree from my local Lowe's this morning; a honeycrisp variety. My first apple tree is in full sun and seems to be growing new shoots/stems/branches from the base at soil level. I live in North Texas (D-FW) and I have heavy red clay soil in my back yard. I'm just glad to know that apple trees can be pruned low and planted close together and still get some apples. I'll keep you posted.
@@maccliff2115 Great! side note that teh branches coming from near the soil level are likely "suckers" and should be removed. Here's the vid: ua-cam.com/video/qqo77oeDm5c/v-deo.html
This is SO helpful to see how you planted and pruned these trees. I'm still kind of confused about dwarf tree pruning though... If you cut at knee height, will the tree still grow to 10' tall? or more like 6' (at full maturity)? I need to figure that out before I prune mine. Thank you so much for sharing your garden with us.
So glad it helped! Cut down at knee height, these trees will still reach their full mature height. This topping is primarily done to encourage a different growth habit. So, I suppose it's possible that a dwarf tree that would be 23 feet may not reach that exact beight because we've removed a central leader and opted for an open center pruning. That said, most of our deciduous trees in full sun easily reach that 10' height and need to be kept there through pruning. Good luck!
Absolutely fantastic video! Very inspiring and encouraging! Thank you!
Hi Thom. Thanks for the kind words!
@@TheBusyGardener
Very well deserved!
Thanks for the info your shared here. What a great little orchard you've got going. I, wonder if you could point to any downsides of this approach? i.e. significantly more work in pruning to keep the trees in check or anything like that?
Hi Newpatch! I think it's more an issue of trade-offs than downsides. For the home gardener, this approach is actually a bit LESS work because the trees aren't getting too big, you don't have to drag a ladder out, less fruit to manage, etc. That being said, with smaller trees you will get less fruit than a full size tree (30ft tall instead of 8-10ft), you do make more cuts because you have access to the whole canopy. On the whole, this approach is especially well suited for the backyard grower.
@@TheBusyGardener Thanks for great feedback. Love your channel.
Very informative video. Love that you mentioned the part about low nitrogen fertilizer, many leave that out.
Hi KGT, that Low N is the secret in the sauce for keeping tree size manageable (second to pruning, that is).
Great Video. Just I was looking for. I'm trying to plant fruit tress in a 30 feet by 6 feet stripe. How far apart do you plant two different spices? I want to get the maximum usage from that spaces with different varieties.
If you're wanting just a strip, I think you can still get away with planting 2-3 in a hole, 2-3 feet from trunk to trunk. The closer they are together, the more work they'll be and the less fruit you'll get from each variety, but you'll have more varieties. So it's up to you on that one.
Ilove your methods and concepts! i just bought my first home with 30 mature fruit trees but most are WAY too tall to reach the friut. Can you prune older mature trees and not hurt the trees? i'd like to restructure some of them to lower the fruit access but dont want to hurt the mature tree growth and fruiting. i'm nearby in Riverside. hit 120 degrees last summer.
JuicingGardener (Sheryl Mann) hi Sheryl! Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. A couple questions: 1) How old are the trees? 2) How tall are they?
In short, you’d need to make whatever height reductions over 3 seasons, which will severely affect and limit your fruiting for the next few years. If your trees are older, or if you don’t want to sacrifice that many years of fruit with uncertain results, you may consider starting over with new trees. That might sound drastic, but you’ll have fruit sooner, and you’ll be able to develop a canopy at your desired height right away. If you decide to go keep your mature trees, here is an excellent resource from Dave Wilson Nursery: www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/growing-fruits-and-nuts/cultural-practices/taming-big-old-tree
@@TheBusyGardener super valuable info thanks! Some are easily 25+ feet tall. our avo tree is 60+ feet tall. we have room to add more trees and keep them shorter, reachable. our big old ones still fruit well. i like your idea of taking 3 years to modify them slowly to give them breathing room.
oh we just bought the 1979 house. it was built on orange groves so have no idea age, but they COULD be 50+ years old. i'm too new at fruit trees to determine their age
So, are your current trees all Citrus and avocado? If so, height is truly not as big a deal, as you can pick much of the fruit with a fruit picking basket (they aren't as delicate as peaches, for example). Citrus puts most of the fruit in the bottom 2/3 of the tree, so you won't sacrifice too much fruit by bringing the canopy down a few feet. You're blessed to have the option to keep trees and add others. Have anything in mind you're considering adding?
I just subbed your channel, and am looking forward to seeing more of your adventure. Quite a different climate experience out here than in the Midwest!
:)
That’s awesome! Very nice and helpful. Do you have any comments about deer pressure or other things a home gardener/orchardist would want to think about in zone 7? Thanks!
I haven't got a lot of experience with deer, so can't offer any real help! Given that much of the fruiting canopy is within deer range, I imagine that some sort of physical barrier around your orchard would make the most sense.
Just found your channel it's great clear explanation & you really offer tremendous encouragement. I wound love to use this concept too but instead of planting the fruit trees in the ground directly I'm planting them in bottomless containers because my native soil is poor & rocky so I figure I'll give them a headstart In good rich soil plus the container will help to dwarf the tree too but would you still suggest planting similar varieties together as opposed to completely different varieties?
Wow, thanks for the uplifting words, Geriann! A few thoughts on that: 1) I am a big advocate of planting directly in the ground. A container planted tree will need more attention, and is more sensitive. 2) your soul may be better than you think! Putting a solid mulch layer on top and feeding your trees in early Feb, early April, and late June will give them everything they need. I've also got incredibly rocky soil. 3) I suppose it's possible to multiplayer in a container, but that's a really small space for all that root structure to make use of. I've got a handful of planting videos that Can help you on this journey!
@@TheBusyGardener ok i understand what you're saying about container planting but i have the bottom of my containers open to the ground so eventually they will root into the ground the earthworms & other nutrients will be accessed because by taking off the bottom of the container creates an open system similarly to directly planting in the ground plus having a good part of the rootball above the surface prevents it from getting waterlogged in our rainy season. Here in the tropics in the West Indies we only get 2 seasons a wet & a dry season almost half of the year. My soil seems to be rocky & loamy not a very good combination drainage is poor in the rainy season & as you know most plants & fruit trees dont like "wet feet".
@@TheBusyGardener yes i will be checking out more of your videos not that i have found & subscribed to your channel
Cool concept!! Great video!
Thanks, Christopher! It's worked out really well for us, and I think makes the whole fruit tree thing manageable for the average person. Have you got any fruit trees planted?
This is genius.
It IS! I was so grateful to have heard about this method from videos with Tom Spellman from Dave Wilson Nursery
Great video! Will this work on a pear or plum tree that has been grafted with a few varieties? Could cutting the tree possibly remove one or two of the different varieties?
If you have a multi-budded tree and you cut to knee high, you might accidentally remove desired types of fruit from the tree. Those trees usually have each type of fruit on them marked, so you can definitely reduce size without accidentally cutting off a branch for an entire type of fruit
How far away does one grouping need to be from another grouping? And from fences and sidewalks?
Great information! Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
I would love to see a video of how they look when fruited. They don’t seem large enough to have 50.
We've found that these particular trees aren't as productive because of the serious shade they get from a couple directions. The close-planted trees in our main orchard (all the other vids) absolutely BOOM with consistent sunshine
@@TheBusyGardener thank you for responding. Going to check out some of your other videos. 😊
I have a some peach trees I want to do this with. Have you ever incorporated the Elen White method with high density planting? If so, could you refer me to your video or a link you may know of with these two methods combined? Thank you and I do enjoy your channel.
Thanks Jude! I haven't used Ellen White's method, largely because manually digging out space in our extremely rocky soil sounds terrible 😂
@@TheBusyGardener oh I see and understand that would be quite labor intensive. I believe I will be moving forward with the EGW method and combining High Density Planting. We have heavy clay here in GA so I'll be renting an auger. Thank you for the reply and best wishes from my family to yours.
Hey Busy Gardener,I have a friend at the north end of Euclid in Upland. He has a few orchards going. So tropical, others more stonefruits and Avo's, passion fruits etc. Still trying to get him to get a ton of wood chips as you have.
Looks great though. Your spread looks very nice and well put together.
Hi Viper, San Antonio Heights (or North Upland) is such a great area for growing fruit - much of it was citrus groves for many years. Tell your friend to get busy with mulch! lol Maybe your friend and I need to shoot an episode of TBG over at their place.
Genius. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this info.
You bet!
Great info with this video . Are you doing an update soon on your orchard ?
Thanks, Jesus. Have you seen any of the other videos on here? TONS of updates and lessons.
Great guy
Good on ya mate great show
Thanks for watching! 💪
I've always seen that open center pruning makes the tree weak and easier to split it break. Have you had any experience with that?
I've never had any issues with that, on any of my dozens of trees! Keeping them pruned to a manageable height/size has surely helped with this.
Awesome video mate, keep up the good job
Thanks a ton!
Amazing
Thanks
I just purchased a few fruit trees. My 2 Asian pears are the tallest but I’m nervous about cutting them down before they have established strong roots. What do you suggest? They’re still in their original pot because I need the roots to grow.
When you reduce the canopy size, you reduce the amount of foliage the roots need to support. It's a good idea to cut back foliage on most transplants!
Thank you. Just great. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍😎🐶
Is the 4 to 5 ft spacing between fruit trees good? im planning to do like line the fence,please help with your knowledge
+mithun gerald Yup! If you keep them pruned from growing into each other, that distance is fine.
@@TheBusyGardener is 4 ft good or 5 ft
@@mithunekm either should work, but 5 feet will give you more room against a fenceline.
@@mithunekm 5 will give your trees a little more room between each other to branch out.
What low nitrogen fertilizer do you use? I have 3 fruit trees coming next week that I am going to plant this way. My family thinks I’m nuts bc I have a tiny yard and I’m planting 3 trees. 😆
Hi Micki! This method IS a lot different than what most people think of with tall, shading, fruit trees. I use GroPower "Flower N Bloom" 3-12-12 (manufactured locally in Southern California). Any low Nitrogen, high Potassium, High Phosphorus feed should accomplish the same goals. Here's a vid that may help flesh out how to feed your trees. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/O_aNpUkVEng/v-deo.html
The Busy Gardener
Thank you so much!
How much space should be left between each tree when doing this method? I think I have them too close. 🤔 I have two apple trees and two peach trees.
@@walkbyfaithfamily9177 You can plant them REALLY close with success, though they seem to do best with 3-4 feet between them, from trunk to trunk. How close did you plant them?
The Busy Gardener - I put the apple tree (dwarf) 4 feet from a peach tree (standard).
I ended up moving it more like 6 feet away.
I still have 2 more trees to plant though- another apple and another peach. Could I still use that hole I dug??🤷♀️. They are spaced in a diamond pattern if that helps.
I want to try the knee-high, open-canopy style of pruning. I notice your tree trunks are at least arm-thick. My new trees are finger-thick. Do you have an opinion as to when I can start pruning them? (At what size? And if ok to leave just the trunk with no leaves?)
I prune mine with a big "heading" cut upon planting which brings the height down. It's less a shock to a small tree than a large established one!
@@TheBusyGardener Ok. Thanks.
I haven’t got your beautiful climate. I live in N Ireland and just bought 3 cherry. And 3 apple trees. Could I plant them like you did in an allotment?
Congrats on your trees! You can absolutely plant them using this method
Beginner Gardner here. I’m also in zone 9 and in so cal. You don’t happen to be in the IE area? asking for planting reference. Lol
Yup! In the IE, zone 9b/10a
@@TheBusyGardener me too! You have a new subscriber thank you for replying!
Thanks for a very informative video! How far apart are the trees spaced?
Thanks for watching! Trees are spaced about 2.5 feet, trunk to trunk.
@@TheBusyGardener Wow! That’s amazing. Thanks for your reply.
Hello from the Carolinas.Thanks for sharing your 🍏&🍊orchard. Pretty amazing the range of fruits you grow.We do some patio gardening. In the past, we’ve had success with a kumquat tree which fruited well every year until a really severe frost killed it. Our arbesquena olive survived that same frost, but since it sets flowers in late autumn it has never succeeded in fruiting outdoors.
Have you considered growing a coffee bush? As a gardenia relative, it has pretty fragrant white flowers.🌿
We're very blessed with a climate that is mild on most of our trees. Is your olive self-fruitful? That coffee bush sounds really interesting!
Yes, the olive is self fruiting. It is such an attractive tree. The coffee ☕️ 🌱is still quite small. It will be an indoor plant until after Mid-April our last frost date. We’re so eager for Spring. Soon we’ll plant peas outside. To give them a head start on germination we decided to soak them and sprout them. Once we know how much space they’ll take in the veg plots we’ll plant 🥕 and radishes and 🥬. Happy gardening!
This is awesome
Thanks, FTM!
Sir, are you having problems with the roots growing too big?
No problems experienced to this point, 7 years later
@@TheBusyGardener it will depend on what rootstock he his for instance you can get away planting m27 root stocks with as little as 3.5 feet apart I have done something similar to you but with less space I have 6 trees I have 2 semi dwrf 1 m9 and rest m27 hoping to make some cider in a a year or two as they are fully mature after 3/4 yrs(m27)
What about pollination?
@@kathrynwoodall7045 Hi Kathryn! Pollination is better with high density planting because you've got trees that much closer. The bees don't have to make too far a jump to pollinate other varieties when they're within just a few feet.
@@matthewsteel4496 He didnt use root stocks, that's why I asked my question.
Thank you!
Super helpful, ty!
Glad it helped!! 😊
You mention a fertilizer low on N here, any suggestions for what you use and how often/times of year?
What's up, Bryan! Have you checked out any of my vids on fertilizing?
Great Video! Thanks for all of the info. What type of tag do you use on your tree at 8:22?
Hi Ernesto! I used these tags: www.amazon.com/dp/B01LP3KFWS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GkOpCbH29AQQP
I also include a strip of flag tape so I can easily locate them when there are a lot of leaves. Info I include are the: Species - Variety, and in the top right I put the year planted, and the rootstock, if known.
I cut pop cans, press the info with a dull pencil and attach it with loose zip ties. 5 years later still there.
what I would like to see is the trees when they are full of fruit
old dave ! We’re still a few months away from any stone fruit coming on, but you can spot lots of citrus in my fall update here: ua-cam.com/video/JeCeDHGj-ak/v-deo.html
@@TheBusyGardener were the fruits after you severely pruned the trees, thanks if I were you, I would graft some of those trees, it's very easy, also it's going to be interesting how the trees make out without the nitrogen
@@olddave4833 The fruit was limited, for sure, but it was a hit I expected, and did this pruning for the long term structure of the tree. Returning the structure for more compact and bushy, vs long and spindly. Those same trees have a ton of fruiting wood on them for this next growing season, so it'll be interesting to watch. The trees are still getting nitrogen in this feed and the breakdown of organic material, just less they would with a high "N" fertilizer. As far as grafting, I'm seriously considering trying it out when the trees mature a little.
Great videos, so informative. One question I have is, is it ok to plant flowering trees like gardenia and jasmine etc. Near the citrus trees?
Thanks for watching 😀 Yes you can!
Hi Cameron, I just discovered your channel today, so good! I've watched a few of your videos on how to setup a small backyard orchad and they've been great. I was wondering though, about how many apples do you get from the tress when they have such a low profile? I'd just like to have enough to make a batch of cider as well as some for eating if possible and wanted get an idea of what would be possible in the space I have. Thanks again for putting your channel together, its been so helpful.
Thanks, Aaron! The biggest issue with my apple production hasn't been low yield for the size, but just very slow vigor in general. Aside from the incredibly productive early low-chill cultivars like "Anna" and "Dorsett Golden", I've had very little yield. I think the lack of full sun is playing a part in that lack of vigor. My dad has a fuji planted in only the last 2 years, and he's got a solid fruitset. Aside from any soil difference, his is in full sun all day.
So I'm a novice at this. And I'm dying for cherry trees. Can I plant them along an outer fence line and the roots won't spread out too far? And I believe the varieties I'm looking into require cross pollination. Can I plant them close together or would further apart like 10 feet across the yard be better?
Cherries are terrific! Roots will spread with cherries, but does the fence line matter if the roots stay beneath the soil? Most cherries require a compatible pollinator in order to set fruit. When it comes to pollination, the closer, the better. 10 feet is ok too
If I keep the trees small, will it still produce a prolific amount of fruit?