I lived in Alaska for 23 years and learned a few survival and living tips for cold weather. one is use the snow to insulate the battery box. the coldest snow gets is around 30° when packed to around 3' deep around something. next for a space heater get an oil filled radiator heater. no tipping problems, no exposed heater coils safer all around. you are living a great life.
I am a Small Engine mechanic for 38 years . I can tell that some of your problem on the generator not running when it is real cold out is the fuel air mixture the carb is set at.
How i keep my batteries from freezing here in Colorado is i have a single light running below 32F inside the box to generate heat. Also another thing to know is the lower the charge is on a battery the easier it is to freeze, so a battery that constantly freezes means its not balanced with the rest of the pack and needs to be brought back to the level of the rest of the pack individually, proper balancing helped a lot on keeping them from getting frozen.
This was one of your BEST videos SO FAR ... Don't worry about how smooth and flowing your vids are. You got a TON of info into this one and passed over some unnecessary stuff. Keep it up you two!~
I just read what you wrote over on your web site and I think the cold weather kit is your best bet. Most big snow blowers (>7HP) actually have a box that is heated by the exhaust that the inlet air is drawn through, pre-heating it.
Another item to check on your generator is to reduce the intake size. A quick check is to block off half of the air filter intake and see if it runs smoother, The air is more dense in the cold so chocking off the intake will richen the mixture. Canadian trick. I enjoy the channel, stay warm.
I would invest in a second generator of at least 5000-8000watt capacity. The oil you should use in those temps is 0w-20/30 and 10w/40 in the summer. Keep the 3000watt one as a backup and take it with you when you do the firewood runs.
separate the batteries, even an inch between them will allow air flow which will assist cooling in summer and warming in winter. I have my batteries sitting on 1x2's to allow air flow under the batteries as well. This is year 7 for me. If you have even 1 battery not doing its job get it out of the line up asap it will damage your entire bank. I took a 6 inch stove pipe, ran it through the wall of my cabin, installed a fan taken from a discarded computer and ran it into my battery box. The small amount of heat flowing from the cabin to the battery box has saved my setup from freezing. It was -19 here this morning with no problems. Good luck.
How nice of you to stay and work hard on the homestead while your lady got a "hall pass" for her play date. Hope she enjoyed the ski experience and made some fun memories in the process. And hope you get your power issue solved. It's NO fun to be freezing and all bundled up with no hope in sight!
hey guys, i have the EXACT same generator at my house as a back up power system and is running great, will let you know what i did, but a bit of a back story. i live up in Saskatchewan Canada, winter here as a normal temp is -25C (-13f) and gets as cold as -45c (-49F) and i have used this genny during power black outs, 3 days ago i actually had to use it at -40c (-40f, its the same temp) last year using it i has the same surging that you having, even when i put 5w30 into it, a little insight from a mechanic on oils.... the way oils are rated as a #W# is as follows, 1st number weight is what the viscosity of the oil is cold. so a 5w30 will be a little thinner than a 10w30 oil in the cold. once the engine warms up the oil changes viscosity again and becomes a 30 weight. so once the engine has ran a bit and heated up the 5w30, 10w30 and 15w30 oils will all still be the same viscosity. so by changing the oil like you did from a 10w30 to a 5w30 all it effectively does is allow the small generator engine to start a little easier in the cold but have absolutely zero effect on the engine after it warmed up, and that is why your generator ran better than before when you started it untill it was fully warm after about an hour. to effectively change this for winter what you need to do is change the oil to one that gas a lower hot viscosity like a #w20 oil. this fall i had changed my oil to to a 5w20, that way it starts easier in its cold form, and is a little thinner in its hot form for performance. even thou recommended oil is a 30 weight on the generator, it will cause no harm to toss a 20 weight into it, the reason they recommend a 30 weight oil only is, during the late spring/summer/ early fall months, a person may not think to change the oil out and back to a 30 weight oil. by not doing so the 20w can not cool the engine enough in a hotter climate and could cause the generator to have and engine failure. that said. during winter and months with temperatures around -10C (or around +14F) the surrounding air tempurature is more than adequate to properly cool the small cylinder engines. the same 5w20 that is in my generator for winter is the same oil i have been running in my snowblower for the last 5 years when the snowblower is recommended at a 30w oil, the sbowblower i have is about a 15-20 year old blower and i put the 20 weight into as it runs better in the thick packed snow when its -30c or so out here. hope this has helped you out sincerely ~ Aaron from Aaron's Automotive.
I lived with a wood stove for 4 years and, though it worked very well, we had to clean it every Fall, before we started using it, or all the smoke went into the house instead of up the chimney.
Hi guys! I've watched a bunch of your videos and wanted to say thanks for shooting them! You guys are doing great out there on the homestead and undoubtedly inspire a lot of people! That being said, I'd like to help you out with your power systems and challenges you have been facing with it. Whether that help is comes in the form of design. setup, troubleshooting, sending you spare equipment, etc. My immediate concern is your frozen batteries. Batteries that have frozen cells are usually a death sentence unfortunately. Right now I would be doing everything I can to get as much of a charge into them as I can. I know you're having generator problems which doesn't help at all. Also, you have a lot of capacity in that battery bank and I really dont think you guys have a way to properly charge that bank. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to deliver 10% of the AH rating of the bank in current. I think you mentioned the battery bank has 700AH capacity in another video which means you should be charging them with about 70 amps. Using the T = Ah / A formula says if you're delivering 70 amps it will take roughly 10 hours to fully charge the bank if they are dead. This does not factor in any losses, which you have a ton of unfortunately, mainly because you're dealing with a 12 volt system and your secondary problem is the temperature. See this little article for charging time and current. www.electricaltechnology.org/2013/03/easy-charging-time-formula-for.html Do you have a good set of jumper cables with heavy wire? If so, park the truck by the battery bank, hook up the jumper cables and let her run for a few hours. Keep a voltmeter handy and check the voltage at the battery bank about once per hour to see if its taking a charge. Long term I would hook up a permanent charging plug on the truck using an Anderson SB350 connector and the biggest wire you can get, I recommend 4/0 cable for this, and try to keep the charging jumper as short as possible. You can probably get a pigtail with the anderson connector on it at a store/shop that sells snow plows, that is what they use to power the plow. Voila, you have a high power generator/battery charger and you didn't even know it! A cheap upgrade would be to find a high power alternator for the truck to increase your charging current. Moving on to your solar I have some questions. How far away from your battery bank/charge controller are your solar panels? I'm looking for how many feet of wire are in between the two. Also, what size is the wire? 12 volt systems have a huge amount of loss. Just to give you an idea, if you have 100 feet of wire between the panels and charge controller and the wire is #6 awg it works out to about a 20% loss just in the wire. I assume based on how you have your panels wired in parallel that you're using a PWM type charge controller? An MPPT charge controller would help you out a TON in your situation. This would allow you to run your panels in series, which will increase the voltage and decrease the loss. Check out this voltage drop calculator www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html . A quick test would be to take your voltmeter and check the voltage at the panels on a sunny day, then go to your charge controller and check the panel voltage and see what the difference is. Also, I would upgrade those battery bank jumpers to 4/0 cable as soon as practical. Good luck! Duane
The things I would try to fix the generator are; 1. Full synthetic 0W-20. 2. Clean the spark plug with a propane torch/or put a brand new one in. 3. Take the carburetor apart, (if it has one), and clean it and replace the fuel and air filter.
Just a small (and easy) piece of advice, replace the spark plug at the beginning of winter. These Honda models really aren't meant to be operated at sub-zero temperatures, but a new spark plug should help with cold starting.
I like how you solved the generator not running problem... good job, i too own a Honda generator but so far have not had to change to a 5-30 wt oil....
I am just sitting here in my "on grid" house, but my thoughts are; insulating (with hay or something) and heating by running hot water through the box (like in pipes through the insulation. My parents heated poolwater by running the poolwater through a black mat on the roof that got hot in the sun or simply through a fire. Seriously, some friends dug a hole in a forest, made a tub out of it with plastic sheets and ran water through the woodfire for a steaming hottub, much like yours I guess). The idea of heating it by building a greenhouse over it (and growing veggies in it in spring and summer) that I read in the comments sounds good too. Sending you much warmth and a happy newyear from across the ocean where it is nearly freezing temperature but nowhere near snow yet, and probably only will see a few cm this year anyway
Something you may want to consider is building a passive solar heater for your barn and the battery box. Many designs can be found on the internet and they can be built for under a hundred bucks (less, because you likely have many of the materials). It would not work in sunless days but on sunny winter days it might help with your cold battery issues.
Suggestions for anti-battery bank freezing: 1) I don't see any insulation inside the box.... and if there isnt room... maybe insulate it outside... I'm not a big fan of foam... but 2 inch foam can give R13 to R14 range... would help immensely. 2) I see there is some room around the batteries themselves... water jugs filled with water all around the batteries would give you a thermal mass that would greatly reduce freezing as the water would take the "heat" (actually lack of heat) and soak it up helping the batteries keep from freezing longer. And yes... oil viscosity is a HUGE factor in extremely cold climates. So glad you got it sorted!
Sorry for the emphatic message earlier regarding recharing batteries in enclosed spaces. I enjoy your videos and homestead journey. Just praying that you are doing well and are safe. Thanks for sharing all of your homesteading experiences. I would like to do a homestead sometime as well. atb
Service your batteries! The electrolyte needs to completely cover the plates, it actually needs to be almost to the top of the cell. I might suggest going to an Auto parts store and buying a box of battery acid to do your top off, then maintain them with distilled/de-ionized water, never use tap or well water in them, the minerals and sediments will destroy your batteries.
Greyman Zink completely agree.. Add acid and distilled water. On lead acid batteries like this you need to keep the plates covered and as was pointed out the level should be right there at the top near the caps.. If you let them go dry like this you risk sulpating and killing cells which in turn kill the battery.
Hi all, long time viewer, first comment. In Caaaaaanadaaaa, where it really gets cold, we can get carburetor freeze up. Try putting a 1/2 oz. gas line antifreeze in each tankful to eliminate moisture from the air icing up the carb. Has worked for me for over 35 years. Keep up the good work.
My hubby said for your generator you should be using gas-line anti-freeze in it. Any machine running gas........... And 5W 20 oil Hubby hunts in the cold weather a lot and uses the generator.
Hey guys, Get some battery vent "hydrocaps" for your batteries. They catalyze the hydrogen and oxygen gas generated by your batteries' charge cycles back into pure water. They will sharply reduce how much water you have to replace in your batts over a given period.
I think you got a lemon for your generator. Honda is the best. I have a 5000 and it's more quiet than yours, starts at the push of a button (battery included) and when we had the ice storm in 1998, it ran non stop for 8 days (24 hrs/day) and is still running perfectly. That's why I got a more expensive Honda. And you always use synthetic oil in all machinery starting, running and operating in cold weather. I'm from Ottawa so I have an idea of what cold weather is.
Which model of 5KW Honda do you have? The EU3000 is only 57db at 1/4 load. I'm not aware of any of the Honda 5KW models that come anywhere close to that. Most of the non-inverter open-frame models are in the 72db range. It could just be the camera picking up the exhaust noise being amplified in the back of his pickup truck as I have a EU3000 as well and it is whisper quiet.
Really it just needs a slightly bigger jet in the carburetor. I bet the ones they sell further north come with a larger jet installed. In the cold, air is more dense, so you need more fuel. Definitely not a lemon? lol. Thats why fuel injection is king. I hate carbs they piss me off.
Good video. Try keeping the tops of the batteries completely clean and dry. You can loose surface voltage right out of the cells. Also you should always wear eye protection when dealing with acid batteries. Best of luck to you guys
maybe you cover it- but I wondered how homesteaders 1) charge all their video editing equipment 2) upload to UA-cam Seems almost counter to the culture but I appreciate the vlogs non the less
Thanks for sharing the details of your experiences, it can save someone coming behind you from learning so many things the hard way. I wanted to add my 2 cents on lead-in battery care, sorry if I am repeating something that has already been said. The maximum rated temperature for a lead-in battery is +80F, the low temperature limit is determined by the charge level. As the battery becomes discharged, the sulfuric acid separates from the water, allowing icing. Therefore, with the temperatures you experienced, you want to be above half charge (open circuit voltage of no less than 6.05 volts). Also, these batteries should be placed in some type of environment where the temperature extremes are limited. When placing batteries in series, the batteries need to be matched, otherwise they may not charge very well and can wear out faster. The best way to match batteries, is to buy all the batteries in a series string, all at the same time (ideally the same lot code). It's probably a good thing you are learning all this stuff critical to battery bank care on some used batteries (as opposed to new ones). When adding water to the batteries, use only distilled water. I don't recommend using any distilled water from the store, it can have added ingredients, like salt and floride (which is industrial toxic waste). I use a water distiller I bought for purifying drinking water.
Insulate your battery compartment and service your batteries....Also get the service dept. to service and/or tuneup your Honda generator....Remember batteries have to have distilled water covering the plates....Good luck....God Bless you guys.....
Buy a diesel generator with glow plugs, get a large onsite diesel tank and have it filled with non-road diesel which is cheaper to run. Problems solved and you'll have more power than you'll ever need.
I highly recommend you look into thermal fans, one of my neighbors uses a small 50watt portable wind turbine to trickle charge his batteries anytime his furnace is on. The thermal fan provides a small amount of wind which blows directly at the micro wind turbine, which actually keeps the batteries warmer all night due to being trickle charged. Based on the thermal fan he uses the 50watt setup was the only turbine he could keep running with just the fan wind of the thermal fan.
My wife and I have been off grid for 15 years now, and have experienced same of the same problems. We use a generator on cloudy days as a backup also. currently using a Honda EU2000 and had the same cold starting problems found out by over filling the oil by about one once it fixed it. Apparently the oil sensor doesn't work too well in cold weather and seems to work much better with just a little bit more oil. It starts on first pull now even at 7 deg. Also note lead acid batteries will not freeze in cold weather if they are charged say a 6 volt should not go below 6.25 volts.
Drain the fuel and put in fresh fuel. Clean out the float boat also. This will make a big difference!! I just did these things at a job site and it fired right up.
A frozen battery the battery is toast. The key to solar power is to keep the batteries warm above 60F. The cold area that you store the batteries is destroying your solar capacity for energy. If you have sealed batteries venting is not needed. Regular batteries that you are using require venting the box. Solar has to be done right otherwise its a complete waste of resources and effort. Love the videos.
Not sure if anyone has told you, but batteries being used for Solar power should be kept near room temperature for optimum performance. As batteries get cold, they begin to lose their power. Conversely, it is also bad for batteries to be in a really hot location.
I use BatteryMINDer or Battery Tender maintainers and quick disconnect harnesses on my vehicles. Having the battery float charged on a really cold morning really makes a difference.
The thinner oil advice they gave you was good advice. You might even consider going to a synthetic oil. I watched to the end and see the issue didn't go away. My first thought is to replace the spark plug with a new one, quick and cheap troubleshooting step. Next I would move on to replacing the fuel filter. I'm not all that familiar with the Honda but I'm sure it has some sort of in line filter. If the problem persists after that, I would pull the carburetor off, take it apart and clean it. Some dirt may have got by the fuel filter and is blocking a jet or port in the carb. Just my two cents and that's probably all it's worth. haha Good luck on figuring the problem out!
The synthetic oil is a big help to run cold but cold gasoline is hard to vaporise. I recommend leaving the gas tank empty over night and put warm gas in the tank just before you start it. The batteries need strong acid to resist freezing so as suggested top off the low cells with acid not water.
Hans Quistorff I agree. if your batteries are deep cycle batteries you should definitely look at their specifications 4 temperature. charge your batteries long enough to melt all the ice that you see in them. ultimately the ice will warp the plates If it freezes solid. that will ultimately ruin the battery.
Thanks for the upload. Very informative and gave an honest assessment of the pro's and cons of off grid life, (even noticed a tad of frustration regarding generator at end. LOL! I can relate). The "Blue Bird Day", did make it worth all the while. All the best to you both for the new year.
In cold higher altitudes you need to go up 1 size in the main jet of the carb, you can test this by either leaving the choke on slightly or blocking part of the air intake with some tape.
Old military trick...Dig a hole, surround the top with sandbags, and cover it with a piece of plywood with a hole for the exhaust. I'll leave the exhaust piping to your creativity if you go this way. Also helps with noise pollution. Stay warm!
That battery looked like it needing topping up with distilled water, not regular water obviously, presuming it's a standard lead acid battery, the liquid level should be just above the top of the plates, another way to check for a failing battery is to see if it's significantly warmer than the others when charging, or look for signs of the plate buckling, instead of nice straight lines the plate spacing is not the same and tops of the plates look slightly wavy, needing topping up all the time is also a sign it's on the way out as the battery gets warmer causing some of the acid to evaporate off and hence topping.
Man that is cold! Never seen a snow scoop before. Interesting to see frozen batteries. We are off grid in Florida, we have challenges but cold isn't one of them. We are picking ripe tomatoes from our garden. We had a problem with our Honda generator EU 2000i. It was a wire and broken pin from inside the harness. hope you get that generator working right! Cheers.
I agree - exhaust fumes into the vehicle is a potential health issue. Take care. Thanks for the vids. 32Deg C here in Melbourne Australia today. I'll send you some warmth. LOL.
If you end up shopping for a different inverter check out Magnum. They are imo the benchmark and should serve you well for many many years. If you end up getting a seperate solar charge controller and inverter combo also check out morningstar charge controllers.... That combo properly installed will be trouble free and very good to your batteries.
Usually, on small engines, when the RPM go up and down it is because there is a small piece of dirt stuck somewhere in the carburetor, However, it would run poorly then even in warm weather. With temps as cold as you have, you could run 5W20 oil as long as you changed it back to 10W30 once the weather was over 50F.
Hello winter time is my favourite time of year. I am not skiing, not making winter sports. I am trucker, Even with little problems it is making I like winter. In Finland now 4 th january to nigh 5 th here is -22 C and i am 100 km north of Helsinki, so quite south.
There may be more issues with the generator but in your climate you definitely need to be changing the oil viscosity come Winter and then go back to a thicker oil come Spring (or whenever it warms back up). Also, this may sound counterintuitive, but snow is a great insulator. I'd pile it up on all sides of your battery box. As much as you can stand.
I have to admit after initially watching one of your videos found by chance, my first thoughts were 'Here we go again, another american couple playing at being homesteaders.' After watching a few more I am glad I carried on as your videos are fantastic, you are both upbeat about everything and more than rise to the challenge AND most importantly you are doing it for the right reasons and are ready and expect and face both the hardships and the bettertimes. I have subbed and I look forward to more videos in the future. It will be nice to see where your path leads. All the best in 2017 and keep those video updates coming. One thing I would love to see more of is the things you do in your downtime, not that I suspect you get much of it. So next time you go Skiing make sure you pack a camera :)
You should move yoru battery bank into your cabin on the opposite side of the wood stove. You still have the camper inside the whole thing and it's not air tight so it should be fine. I mean you have it leaned up against it anyway. Build shelves for it, or stuff them in a bench.
Insulate the entire battery box (including the bottom) and since it's right up against your extension house, cut a good sized hole in the wall and connect the two, that should keep your batteries from freezing.
The problem in freezing is that the battery is not charged; a charged battery will NOT freeze, and has a low ph (acid), but a dead battery has plain water in cells, 7.0 ph, and will freeze;
Ok Mike, You probably didn't catch that I was offering a solution, or trying to. I think I might be wrong in some of what I said but at least I was offering a solution and not trolling to start some crap.
so they had to get a hold of someone here in North Dakota :D where winter is ERALLY crappy, like today,16 below zero , again it was almost 32 degrees two days ago
I noticed that the battery bank is on the Shaded side of the building. If it were painted black and on the sunny side it would have a free heat source durring the day. Maybe with some black thermal mass into the evening too. Just an observation.
It could be a winter carburetor adjustment?? Anyway, as for the batteries, please set aside some time to look into the DIY Powerwall info I have mentioned previously. Find used 18650 li-on batteries, assembly is time consuming, but they arent affected by temperature to a point where you will notice. They also don't have a significant resistive load to charging. Way less maintenance, lighter, more dense power, but more up front time for initial assembly. I can get you into a fantastic closed FB group for resources. Sorry you are going through these stresses, but you grow, and learn, I learn. I love watching you guys on this adventure, I daydream about this stuff!
Do you think if you insulated the storage unit that you keep your solar batteries in, that that would help with some of the issues your having. Great videos, thanks for sharing.
that's what i was thinking...i see that he insulated the back wall, but really needs more. I know people who keep flood lights for the warmth in a compartment like that.
l fod ...actually if the battery box would have been built as a lean-to to the hut/shed/whatchamacallit 😉, then you should NOT insulate the wall between the shed and the batt storage compartment, and insulate ALL OTHER batt compartment walls/lid. That should do the trick as well, keeping them at reasonable temp, via the uninsulated shed wall
I was also thinking this. maybe just one of those cheap foam styrene coolers you could cut up and put slabs around te front & sides; add a light bulb for heat and your off.
Don't like to complain, will you please tone down the music. I'm constantly adjusting the volume. If the music was just a bit lower than when you are talking. Having trouble hearing what you say, so turn up volume to hear what music drowns out, them when only music, it's too loud
Have you thought of extending your battery box? You could add a piece and have your generator in there. the excess heat from the cooling could perhaps be ducted through your battery box with a small fan and you would kill two birds with stone. Heat your battery box, reduce current loss by having shorter leads and have your generator somewhere dry and warmer than your truck bed.
Hello All, Have some suggestions for the batteries and generator. (1) Top off the batteries with acid and add a 60w incandescent light bulb inside the battery box to keep the batteries from freezing. (2) Oil should be 0W20 or less and should be for an air cooled motor ( motorcycle/ snowmobile) (3) Never use ethanol fuel in a small engine, only use non- ethanol fuel ( rec 90 ) in any small engine ( generator, chainsaw, ATV, ect...) hope this helps. btw love your videos and Thank You.
I'm from NE Minnesota and have experience down to -50. Charged lead acid batteries will not freeze to at least that cold. Dead ones freeze at about 15 above, maybe warmer. Once frozen, they often will not take a charge again. Never store lead acid batteries directly on concrete. The floor acts as a heat sink and causes condensation that will screw up the connections. Put a piece of plywood under them and keep at least a minimal heat source in there. I like the idea of insulating the box except for the building wall. Don't show el snow around the box. Snow is excellent insulation. The generator probably wasn't designed to work in Arctic conditions. Sounds like it gets better when it warms up, but that probably takes a long time at 20 below. The carb is probably icing up something fierce. Gert in the gas might help. Snow blower engines that live at these temps have a box around the muffler to preheat incoming air.
Some of the Honda Generators have issues with carb icing. I think they make a cold weather intake kit that is suppose to help. That may be your issue. Hope you guys get it figured out!
In my experience, the reason your generator is having problems is because the carburetor is jetted on the edge of being too lean. They (Honda) do this for emissions purposes, but if it doesn't run right, it pollutes more anyway. If a tiny speck of dirt or gunk gets into one of the internal passages in the carb, it skews the metering. When it is cold out gasoline has a hard time atomizing/vaporizing so it needs to be richer in order for enough of the fuel to vaporize so that it will burn. That's why you start it with the choke, it chokes the air supply down so that more fuel is drawn into the intake, making it richer. See if it improves under load by pulling the choke out slightly. That's not a fix but it will point you in the right direction. It is also possible that there is some dirt or gunk in the carb, causing it to not meter fuel correctly. Get some carb spray and hose the inside of it out. That may help as well. It's still under warranty right? See if the service center can/will re-jet the carb if cleaning it doesn't work.
Honda engines are the best, but the carbs need to be clean and adjusted correctly. Also never use regular gas with alcohol in it. Only non ethanol gas high test. I fix lots of Honda engines and that's usually the problem.
I own a commercial drone for hire. I studied and pass the FAA test for "Remote Pilot" so I could make money with it. I can't wait to see how you use your Phantom 4 drone in future video on your channel.
*Buy a Canada-market Honda generator!!!* The Choke On the model you need to mod also for Cold Weather Startup.. (your model has a Auto Choke Right?) info online about that. You may need to run that gun set at 1/4 choke to keep her running right even when warmed up..when REAL cold out. then GX160 engine can be like that. Buddy of mine has one on his gen that he got from the USA,. we get -40weather and same deal... governor on his is just bouncing out of control , Carb / crankcase ventilation tube ice up... all the time... You need to buy a model that is labeled. "Cold Climate Technology" is specifically designed cold Canadian winters and Run GREAT in -40 !
Hello guys!! I feel like I'm stalking you guys. Anyways I was working outside again, and nothing would start!! While I was changing the fuel I was thinking about this video!! Anyways its just that time of year!! I hope yesterdays advice worked!! Please keep me updated. Have a good weekend.
You can't have your batteries in subzero temps. You should divert heat into battery box. The gen manual would have told you about it's operating temps and oil requirements. Spec sheet for your batteries will tell you temp conditions too.
I think I remember you saying these were used batteries. It's important to realize that batteries have a limited life. With a 60 month battery, you might get 61 or 62 months and that's it. In your case, that's due to the chemical reaction between the lead and the sulphuric acid. If a battery looses it's charge, the water will freeze and then crack. Now you will have acid all over and that will have to be neutralized with a baking soda. Let me be very clear about this. If your batteries are really important, go get new ones. Best of luck and keep up the good work. I really like your show. Buffalo, NY
I lived in Alaska for 23 years and learned a few survival and living tips for cold weather. one is use the snow to insulate the battery box. the coldest snow gets is around 30° when packed to around 3' deep around something. next for a space heater get an oil filled radiator heater. no tipping problems, no exposed heater coils safer all around. you are living a great life.
I am a Small Engine mechanic for 38 years . I can tell that some of your problem on the generator not running when it is real cold out is the fuel air mixture the carb is set at.
Just stumbled by. Reading the comments. Lots and lots of experts. Should have you fixed up in no time.
How i keep my batteries from freezing here in Colorado is i have a single light running below 32F inside the box to generate heat. Also another thing to know is the lower the charge is on a battery the easier it is to freeze, so a battery that constantly freezes means its not balanced with the rest of the pack and needs to be brought back to the level of the rest of the pack individually, proper balancing helped a lot on keeping them from getting frozen.
This was one of your BEST videos SO FAR ... Don't worry about how smooth and flowing your vids are. You got a TON of info into this one and passed over some unnecessary stuff. Keep it up you two!~
I fell your pain guys, but I love how you always smile. I'm also loving the more frequent videos, Keep em coming if ya can.. well done and thank you
I just read what you wrote over on your web site and I think the cold weather kit is your best bet. Most big snow blowers (>7HP) actually have a box that is heated by the exhaust that the inlet air is drawn through, pre-heating it.
Another item to check on your generator is to reduce the intake size. A quick check is to block off half of the air filter intake and see if it runs smoother, The air is more dense in the cold so chocking off the intake will richen the mixture. Canadian trick. I enjoy the channel, stay warm.
You are hard core great folks. Our Oregon friends are experiencing h e a v y snow. Stay safe and thanks for posting.
I would invest in a second generator of at least 5000-8000watt capacity. The oil you should use in those temps is 0w-20/30 and 10w/40 in the summer. Keep the 3000watt one as a backup and take it with you when you do the firewood runs.
separate the batteries, even an inch between them will allow air flow which will assist cooling in summer and warming in winter. I have my batteries sitting on 1x2's to allow air flow under the batteries as well. This is year 7 for me. If you have even 1 battery not doing its job get it out of the line up asap it will damage your entire bank.
I took a 6 inch stove
pipe, ran it through the wall of my cabin, installed a fan taken from a discarded computer and ran it into my battery box. The small amount of heat flowing from the cabin to the battery box has saved my setup from freezing.
It was -19 here this morning with no problems.
Good luck.
Wow! So many helpers! Jesse I know you will conquer this one!
How nice of you to stay and work hard on the homestead while your lady got a "hall pass" for her play date. Hope she enjoyed the ski experience and made some fun memories in the process. And hope you get your power issue solved. It's NO fun to be freezing and all bundled up with no hope in sight!
hey guys, i have the EXACT same generator at my house as a back up power system and is running great, will let you know what i did, but a bit of a back story.
i live up in Saskatchewan Canada, winter here as a normal temp is -25C (-13f) and gets as cold as -45c (-49F) and i have used this genny during power black outs, 3 days ago i actually had to use it at -40c (-40f, its the same temp)
last year using it i has the same surging that you having, even when i put 5w30 into it, a little insight from a mechanic on oils....
the way oils are rated as a #W# is as follows, 1st number weight is what the viscosity of the oil is cold. so a 5w30 will be a little thinner than a 10w30 oil in the cold. once the engine warms up the oil changes viscosity again and becomes a 30 weight. so once the engine has ran a bit and heated up the 5w30, 10w30 and 15w30 oils will all still be the same viscosity.
so by changing the oil like you did from a 10w30 to a 5w30 all it effectively does is allow the small generator engine to start a little easier in the cold but have absolutely zero effect on the engine after it warmed up, and that is why your generator ran better than before when you started it untill it was fully warm after about an hour.
to effectively change this for winter what you need to do is change the oil to one that gas a lower hot viscosity like a #w20 oil. this fall i had changed my oil to to a 5w20, that way it starts easier in its cold form, and is a little thinner in its hot form for performance. even thou recommended oil is a 30 weight on the generator, it will cause no harm to toss a 20 weight into it, the reason they recommend a 30 weight oil only is, during the late spring/summer/ early fall months, a person may not think to change the oil out and back to a 30 weight oil. by not doing so the 20w can not cool the engine enough in a hotter climate and could cause the generator to have and engine failure.
that said. during winter and months with temperatures around -10C (or around +14F) the surrounding air tempurature is more than adequate to properly cool the small cylinder engines. the same 5w20 that is in my generator for winter is the same oil i have been running in my snowblower for the last 5 years when the snowblower is recommended at a 30w oil, the sbowblower i have is about a 15-20 year old blower and i put the 20 weight into as it runs better in the thick packed snow when its -30c or so out here.
hope this has helped you out
sincerely ~ Aaron from Aaron's Automotive.
Still praying though for you both. It doesn't hurt to pray when you've tried everything else!
Glad you got the generator figured out in the cold
You missed the end of the video.
I live in Northern Canada and we have found using synthetic in small engines really helps on start ups and running in cold weather.
I lived with a wood stove for 4 years and, though it worked very well, we had to clean it every Fall, before we started using it, or all the smoke went into the house instead of up the chimney.
Seems like a day of homestead issues. Wranglerstar posted a video with his hydraulic hose issues. Keep warm out there!
4:35 something you might consider, is putting a counterweight pulley system to make opening the lid much easier.
Hi guys! I've watched a bunch of your videos and wanted to say thanks for shooting them! You guys are doing great out there on the homestead and undoubtedly inspire a lot of people!
That being said, I'd like to help you out with your power systems and challenges you have been facing with it. Whether that help is comes in the form of design. setup, troubleshooting, sending you spare equipment, etc.
My immediate concern is your frozen batteries. Batteries that have frozen cells are usually a death sentence unfortunately. Right now I would be doing everything I can to get as much of a charge into them as I can. I know you're having generator problems which doesn't help at all. Also, you have a lot of capacity in that battery bank and I really dont think you guys have a way to properly charge that bank. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to deliver 10% of the AH rating of the bank in current. I think you mentioned the battery bank has 700AH capacity in another video which means you should be charging them with about 70 amps. Using the T = Ah / A formula says if you're delivering 70 amps it will take roughly 10 hours to fully charge the bank if they are dead. This does not factor in any losses, which you have a ton of unfortunately, mainly because you're dealing with a 12 volt system and your secondary problem is the temperature. See this little article for charging time and current. www.electricaltechnology.org/2013/03/easy-charging-time-formula-for.html
Do you have a good set of jumper cables with heavy wire? If so, park the truck by the battery bank, hook up the jumper cables and let her run for a few hours. Keep a voltmeter handy and check the voltage at the battery bank about once per hour to see if its taking a charge. Long term I would hook up a permanent charging plug on the truck using an Anderson SB350 connector and the biggest wire you can get, I recommend 4/0 cable for this, and try to keep the charging jumper as short as possible. You can probably get a pigtail with the anderson connector on it at a store/shop that sells snow plows, that is what they use to power the plow. Voila, you have a high power generator/battery charger and you didn't even know it! A cheap upgrade would be to find a high power alternator for the truck to increase your charging current.
Moving on to your solar I have some questions. How far away from your battery bank/charge controller are your solar panels? I'm looking for how many feet of wire are in between the two. Also, what size is the wire? 12 volt systems have a huge amount of loss. Just to give you an idea, if you have 100 feet of wire between the panels and charge controller and the wire is #6 awg it works out to about a 20% loss just in the wire. I assume based on how you have your panels wired in parallel that you're using a PWM type charge controller? An MPPT charge controller would help you out a TON in your situation. This would allow you to run your panels in series, which will increase the voltage and decrease the loss. Check out this voltage drop calculator www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html . A quick test would be to take your voltmeter and check the voltage at the panels on a sunny day, then go to your charge controller and check the panel voltage and see what the difference is. Also, I would upgrade those battery bank jumpers to 4/0 cable as soon as practical.
Good luck!
Duane
The things I would try to fix the generator are; 1. Full synthetic 0W-20. 2. Clean the spark plug with a propane torch/or put a brand new one in. 3. Take the carburetor apart, (if it has one), and clean it and replace the fuel and air filter.
Oh my gosh, that is a cold inside temp!❄❄❄❄ You guys are tough cookies! 🍪🍪 I'm loving your videos! Stay warm!!!!
Just a small (and easy) piece of advice, replace the spark plug at the beginning of winter. These Honda models really aren't meant to be operated at sub-zero temperatures, but a new spark plug should help with cold starting.
I like how you solved the generator not running problem... good job, i too own a Honda generator but so far have not had to change to a 5-30 wt oil....
I am just sitting here in my "on grid" house, but my thoughts are; insulating (with hay or something) and heating by running hot water through the box (like in pipes through the insulation. My parents heated poolwater by running the poolwater through a black mat on the roof that got hot in the sun or simply through a fire. Seriously, some friends dug a hole in a forest, made a tub out of it with plastic sheets and ran water through the woodfire for a steaming hottub, much like yours I guess).
The idea of heating it by building a greenhouse over it (and growing veggies in it in spring and summer) that I read in the comments sounds good too.
Sending you much warmth and a happy newyear from across the ocean where it is nearly freezing temperature but nowhere near snow yet, and probably only will see a few cm this year anyway
Something you may want to consider is building a passive solar heater for your barn and the battery box. Many designs can be found on the internet and they can be built for under a hundred bucks (less, because you likely have many of the materials). It would not work in sunless days but on sunny winter days it might help with your cold battery issues.
Hoping you guys get it fixed! Love your channel and looking forward to seeing your solutions!
Great tip regarding the oil grade for the generator. We have a similar one and will definitely use the info.
Suggestions for anti-battery bank freezing:
1) I don't see any insulation inside the box.... and if there isnt room... maybe insulate it outside... I'm not a big fan of foam... but 2 inch foam can give R13 to R14 range... would help immensely.
2) I see there is some room around the batteries themselves... water jugs filled with water all around the batteries would give you a thermal mass that would greatly reduce freezing as the water would take the "heat" (actually lack of heat) and soak it up helping the batteries keep from freezing longer.
And yes... oil viscosity is a HUGE factor in extremely cold climates. So glad you got it sorted!
Extreme cold changes everything... Hope you two get it sorted out soon!
Take care!
Sorry for the emphatic message earlier regarding recharing batteries in enclosed spaces. I enjoy your videos and homestead journey. Just praying that you are doing well and are safe. Thanks for sharing all of your homesteading experiences. I would like to do a homestead sometime as well. atb
I had a Honda Nothing but problems in cold weather. I now have a Predator from harbor Freight no problems and 1/4 the Cost!!
Service your batteries! The electrolyte needs to completely cover the plates, it actually needs to be almost to the top of the cell. I might suggest going to an Auto parts store and buying a box of battery acid to do your top off, then maintain them with distilled/de-ionized water, never use tap or well water in them, the minerals and sediments will destroy your batteries.
Greyman Zink melted snow should also work for topping up the batts, it is pretty much frozen distilled water.
Yup. Batteries need water.
michbushi You have to make sure that the water isn't cold, dumping cold water into a hot battery is a sure way to ruin it.
+Greyman Zink you are 100% correct !!!! Now to get the young folks to listen.
Greyman Zink completely agree.. Add acid and distilled water. On lead acid batteries like this you need to keep the plates covered and as was pointed out the level should be right there at the top near the caps.. If you let them go dry like this you risk sulpating and killing cells which in turn kill the battery.
I´m impressed with your stamina! Don´t loose faith!!!
Hi all, long time viewer, first comment. In Caaaaaanadaaaa, where it really gets cold, we can get carburetor freeze up. Try putting a 1/2 oz. gas line antifreeze in each tankful to eliminate moisture from the air icing up the carb. Has worked for me for over 35 years. Keep up the good work.
My hubby said for your generator you should be using gas-line anti-freeze in it. Any machine running gas........... And 5W 20 oil
Hubby hunts in the cold weather a lot and uses the generator.
there is no difference between 5w 20 and 5w 30 oil in the winter time.
Hey guys,
Get some battery vent "hydrocaps" for your batteries. They catalyze the hydrogen and oxygen gas generated by your batteries' charge cycles back into pure water. They will sharply reduce how much water you have to replace in your batts over a given period.
I think you got a lemon for your generator. Honda is the best. I have a 5000 and it's more quiet than yours, starts at the push of a button (battery included) and when we had the ice storm in 1998, it ran non stop for 8 days (24 hrs/day) and is still running perfectly. That's why I got a more expensive Honda. And you always use synthetic oil in all machinery starting, running and operating in cold weather. I'm from Ottawa so I have an idea of what cold weather is.
Which model of 5KW Honda do you have? The EU3000 is only 57db at 1/4 load. I'm not aware of any of the Honda 5KW models that come anywhere close to that. Most of the non-inverter open-frame models are in the 72db range. It could just be the camera picking up the exhaust noise being amplified in the back of his pickup truck as I have a EU3000 as well and it is whisper quiet.
I have an EB 5000 model number EB5000XK3AT1. You're right it is 72 db at rated load but much less when running at half load
Really it just needs a slightly bigger jet in the carburetor. I bet the ones they sell further north come with a larger jet installed. In the cold, air is more dense, so you need more fuel. Definitely not a lemon? lol. Thats why fuel injection is king. I hate carbs they piss me off.
Good video. Try keeping the tops of the batteries completely clean and dry. You can loose surface voltage right out of the cells. Also you should always wear eye protection when dealing with acid batteries. Best of luck to you guys
maybe you cover it- but I wondered how homesteaders 1) charge all their video editing equipment 2) upload to UA-cam
Seems almost counter to the culture but I appreciate the vlogs non the less
Thanks for sharing the details of your experiences, it can save someone coming behind you from learning so many things the hard way.
I wanted to add my 2 cents on lead-in battery care, sorry if I am repeating something that has already been said.
The maximum rated temperature for a lead-in battery is +80F, the low temperature limit is determined by the charge level. As the battery becomes discharged, the sulfuric acid separates from the water, allowing icing. Therefore, with the temperatures you experienced, you want to be above half charge (open circuit voltage of no less than 6.05 volts).
Also, these batteries should be placed in some type of environment where the temperature extremes are limited.
When placing batteries in series, the batteries need to be matched, otherwise they may not charge very well and can wear out faster. The best way to match batteries, is to buy all the batteries in a series string, all at the same time (ideally the same lot code). It's probably a good thing you are learning all this stuff critical to battery bank care on some used batteries (as opposed to new ones).
When adding water to the batteries, use only distilled water. I don't recommend using any distilled water from the store, it can have added ingredients, like salt and floride (which is industrial toxic waste). I use a water distiller I bought for purifying drinking water.
Insulate your battery compartment and service your batteries....Also get the service dept. to service and/or tuneup your Honda generator....Remember batteries have to have distilled water covering the plates....Good luck....God Bless you guys.....
Buy a diesel generator with glow plugs, get a large onsite diesel tank and have it filled with non-road diesel which is cheaper to run. Problems solved and you'll have more power than you'll ever need.
I highly recommend you look into thermal fans, one of my neighbors uses a small 50watt portable wind turbine to trickle charge his batteries anytime his furnace is on. The thermal fan provides a small amount of wind which blows directly at the micro wind turbine, which actually keeps the batteries warmer all night due to being trickle charged. Based on the thermal fan he uses the 50watt setup was the only turbine he could keep running with just the fan wind of the thermal fan.
Thank you for sharing all the painful lessons!
My wife and I have been off grid for 15 years now, and have experienced same of the same problems. We use a generator on cloudy days as a backup also. currently using a Honda EU2000 and had the same cold starting problems found out by over filling the oil by about one once it fixed it. Apparently the oil sensor doesn't work too well in cold weather and seems to work much better with just a little bit more oil. It starts on first pull now even at 7 deg. Also note lead acid batteries will not freeze in cold weather if they are charged say a 6 volt should not go below 6.25 volts.
Drain the fuel and put in fresh fuel. Clean out the float boat also. This will make a big difference!! I just did these things at a job site and it fired right up.
A frozen battery the battery is toast. The key to solar power is to keep the batteries warm above 60F. The cold area that you store the batteries is destroying your solar capacity for energy. If you have sealed batteries venting is not needed. Regular batteries that you are using require venting the box. Solar has to be done right otherwise its a complete waste of resources and effort. Love the videos.
Not sure if anyone has told you, but batteries being used for Solar power should be kept near room temperature for optimum performance. As batteries get cold, they begin to lose their power. Conversely, it is also bad for batteries to be in a really hot location.
I use BatteryMINDer or Battery Tender maintainers and quick disconnect harnesses on my vehicles. Having the battery float charged on a really cold morning really makes a difference.
The thinner oil advice they gave you was good advice. You might even consider going to a synthetic oil. I watched to the end and see the issue didn't go away. My first thought is to replace the spark plug with a new one, quick and cheap troubleshooting step. Next I would move on to replacing the fuel filter. I'm not all that familiar with the Honda but I'm sure it has some sort of in line filter. If the problem persists after that, I would pull the carburetor off, take it apart and clean it. Some dirt may have got by the fuel filter and is blocking a jet or port in the carb. Just my two cents and that's probably all it's worth. haha Good luck on figuring the problem out!
The synthetic oil is a big help to run cold but cold gasoline is hard to vaporise. I recommend leaving the gas tank empty over night and put warm gas in the tank just before you start it.
The batteries need strong acid to resist freezing so as suggested top off the low cells with acid not water.
Hans Quistorff I agree. if your batteries are deep cycle batteries you should definitely look at their specifications 4 temperature. charge your batteries long enough to melt all the ice that you see in them. ultimately the ice will warp the plates If it freezes solid. that will ultimately ruin the battery.
Thanks for the upload. Very informative and gave an honest assessment of the pro's and cons of off grid life, (even noticed a tad of frustration regarding generator at end. LOL! I can relate). The "Blue Bird Day", did make it worth all the while. All the best to you both for the new year.
My Xwife went through five generators in five years in our homestead while I was up in Alaska working to pay off the land...
Sorry about your luck w your generator bud , I hope you too can stay worm thanks for up date ,o and get r done ....
In cold higher altitudes you need to go up 1 size in the main jet of the carb, you can test this by either leaving the choke on slightly or blocking part of the air intake with some tape.
Old military trick...Dig a hole, surround the top with sandbags, and cover it with a piece of plywood with a hole for the exhaust. I'll leave the exhaust piping to your creativity if you go this way. Also helps with noise pollution. Stay warm!
Great videos! These are the type of videos I look forward to seeing!!!
I believe its the fuel. I deal with this issue on small Honda motors every winter!! Every winter!!
That battery looked like it needing topping up with distilled water, not regular water obviously, presuming it's a standard lead acid battery, the liquid level should be just above the top of the plates, another way to check for a failing battery is to see if it's significantly warmer than the others when charging, or look for signs of the plate buckling, instead of nice straight lines the plate spacing is not the same and tops of the plates look slightly wavy, needing topping up all the time is also a sign it's on the way out as the battery gets warmer causing some of the acid to evaporate off and hence topping.
Man that is cold! Never seen a snow scoop before. Interesting to see frozen batteries. We are off grid in Florida, we have challenges but cold isn't one of them. We are picking ripe tomatoes from our garden. We had a problem with our Honda generator EU 2000i. It was a wire and broken pin from inside the harness. hope you get that generator working right! Cheers.
I agree - exhaust fumes into the vehicle is a potential health issue. Take care. Thanks for the vids. 32Deg C here in Melbourne Australia today. I'll send you some warmth. LOL.
If you end up shopping for a different inverter check out Magnum. They are imo the benchmark and should serve you well for many many years. If you end up getting a seperate solar charge controller and inverter combo also check out morningstar charge controllers.... That combo properly installed will be trouble free and very good to your batteries.
Usually, on small engines, when the RPM go up and down it is because there is a small piece of dirt stuck somewhere in the carburetor, However, it would run poorly then even in warm weather.
With temps as cold as you have, you could run 5W20 oil as long as you changed it back to 10W30 once the weather was over 50F.
Good job at working the problem. You will get it, just don't stop dancing.
Hello winter time is my favourite time of year. I am not skiing, not making winter sports. I am trucker, Even with little problems it is making I like winter. In Finland now 4 th january to nigh 5 th here is -22 C and i am 100 km north of Helsinki, so quite south.
There may be more issues with the generator but in your climate you definitely need to be changing the oil viscosity come Winter and then go back to a thicker oil come Spring (or whenever it warms back up). Also, this may sound counterintuitive, but snow is a great insulator. I'd pile it up on all sides of your battery box. As much as you can stand.
I have to admit after initially watching one of your videos found by chance, my first thoughts were 'Here we go again, another american couple playing at being homesteaders.' After watching a few more I am glad I carried on as your videos are fantastic, you are both upbeat about everything and more than rise to the challenge AND most importantly you are doing it for the right reasons and are ready and expect and face both the hardships and the bettertimes. I have subbed and I look forward to more videos in the future. It will be nice to see where your path leads. All the best in 2017 and keep those video updates coming. One thing I would love to see more of is the things you do in your downtime, not that I suspect you get much of it. So next time you go Skiing make sure you pack a camera :)
You should move yoru battery bank into your cabin on the opposite side of the wood stove. You still have the camper inside the whole thing and it's not air tight so it should be fine. I mean you have it leaned up against it anyway. Build shelves for it, or stuff them in a bench.
Insulate the entire battery box (including the bottom) and since it's right up against your extension house, cut a good sized hole in the wall and connect the two, that should keep your batteries from freezing.
The problem in freezing is that the battery is not charged; a charged battery will NOT freeze, and has a low ph (acid), but a dead battery has plain water in cells, 7.0 ph, and will freeze;
I get the part where the battery is frozen because it's not charged. I think you missed the point.
Ok Mike, You probably didn't catch that I was offering a solution, or trying to. I think I might be wrong in some of what I said but at least I was offering a solution and not trolling to start some crap.
Mike Muetin
so they had to get a hold of someone here in North Dakota :D where winter is ERALLY crappy, like today,16 below zero , again it was almost 32 degrees two days ago
I noticed that the battery bank is on the Shaded side of the building. If it were painted black and on the sunny side it would have a free heat source durring the day. Maybe with some black thermal mass into the evening too. Just an observation.
Hope you get the inverter charger working! Bummer on the generator....
It would be awesome to see you build a Bedini SG motor to charge and recondition your deep cycle batteries.
It could be a winter carburetor adjustment?? Anyway, as for the batteries, please set aside some time to look into the DIY Powerwall info I have mentioned previously. Find used 18650 li-on batteries, assembly is time consuming, but they arent affected by temperature to a point where you will notice. They also don't have a significant resistive load to charging. Way less maintenance, lighter, more dense power, but more up front time for initial assembly. I can get you into a fantastic closed FB group for resources. Sorry you are going through these stresses, but you grow, and learn, I learn. I love watching you guys on this adventure, I daydream about this stuff!
Do you think if you insulated the storage unit that you keep your solar batteries in, that that would help with some of the issues your having. Great videos, thanks for sharing.
that's what i was thinking...i see that he insulated the back wall, but really needs more. I know people who keep flood lights for the warmth in a compartment like that.
Great idea with the flood lights.
l fod ...actually if the battery box would have been built as a lean-to to the hut/shed/whatchamacallit 😉, then you should NOT insulate the wall between the shed and the batt storage compartment, and insulate ALL OTHER batt compartment walls/lid.
That should do the trick as well, keeping them at reasonable temp, via the uninsulated shed wall
I was also thinking this. maybe just one of those cheap foam styrene coolers you could cut up and put slabs around te front & sides; add a light bulb for heat and your off.
I'd use a window or plexi glass for a roof on the battery house. That will let heat in to keep them un frozen
Ive been keeping up with all your videos good job.
love the addition of the drone footage great job.
Don't like to complain, will you please tone down the music. I'm constantly adjusting the volume. If the music was just a bit lower than when you are talking. Having trouble hearing what you say, so turn up volume to hear what music drowns out, them when only music, it's too loud
Run a few loops of ground resistance wire inside the un-insulated battery box to warm it up.
I agree with other comments... DEFINITELY use synthetic. Otherwise service carb, filters and plug.
Have you thought of extending your battery box? You could add a piece and have your generator in there. the excess heat from the cooling could perhaps be ducted through your battery box with a small fan and you would kill two birds with stone. Heat your battery box, reduce current loss by having shorter leads and have your generator somewhere dry and warmer than your truck bed.
Hello All, Have some suggestions for the batteries and generator. (1) Top off the batteries with acid and add a 60w incandescent light bulb inside the battery box to keep the batteries from freezing. (2) Oil should be 0W20 or less and should be for an air cooled motor ( motorcycle/ snowmobile) (3) Never use ethanol fuel in a small engine, only use non- ethanol fuel ( rec 90 ) in any small engine ( generator, chainsaw, ATV, ect...) hope this helps. btw love your videos and Thank You.
Always enjoy your videos. Didn't enjoy the constant cutting around the 8:00 mark though. Keep up the good work, you two! :)
I agree, distilled water and insulate the battery box.
Insulate with the 3" thick styrofoam insulation and use tough stuff on the gaps
LOVE that snow scoop !!!!
I live in the warmer part of Alaska, it only got down to 27 below last winter
I'm from NE Minnesota and have experience down to -50. Charged lead acid batteries will not freeze to at least that cold. Dead ones freeze at about 15 above, maybe warmer. Once frozen, they often will not take a charge again.
Never store lead acid batteries directly on concrete. The floor acts as a heat sink and causes condensation that will screw up the connections. Put a piece of plywood under them and keep at least a minimal heat source in there. I like the idea of insulating the box except for the building wall.
Don't show el snow around the box. Snow is excellent insulation.
The generator probably wasn't designed to work in Arctic conditions. Sounds like it gets better when it warms up, but that probably takes a long time at 20 below. The carb is probably icing up something fierce. Gert in the gas might help. Snow blower engines that live at these temps have a box around the muffler to preheat incoming air.
Sorry, auto correct, Heet in the gas, not Gert.
Some of the Honda Generators have issues with carb icing. I think they make a cold weather intake kit that is suppose to help. That may be your issue. Hope you guys get it figured out!
In my experience, the reason your generator is having problems is because the carburetor is jetted on the edge of being too lean. They (Honda) do this for emissions purposes, but if it doesn't run right, it pollutes more anyway. If a tiny speck of dirt or gunk gets into one of the internal passages in the carb, it skews the metering.
When it is cold out gasoline has a hard time atomizing/vaporizing so it needs to be richer in order for enough of the fuel to vaporize so that it will burn. That's why you start it with the choke, it chokes the air supply down so that more fuel is drawn into the intake, making it richer. See if it improves under load by pulling the choke out slightly. That's not a fix but it will point you in the right direction.
It is also possible that there is some dirt or gunk in the carb, causing it to not meter fuel correctly. Get some carb spray and hose the inside of it out. That may help as well. It's still under warranty right? See if the service center can/will re-jet the carb if cleaning it doesn't work.
Honda engines are the best, but the carbs need to be clean and adjusted correctly. Also never use regular gas with alcohol in it. Only non ethanol gas high test. I fix lots of Honda engines and that's usually the problem.
I own a commercial drone for hire. I studied and pass the FAA test for "Remote Pilot" so I could make money with it. I can't wait to see how you use your Phantom 4 drone in future video on your channel.
*Buy a Canada-market Honda generator!!!*
The Choke On the model you need to mod also for Cold Weather Startup.. (your model has a Auto Choke Right?) info online about that.
You may need to run that gun set at 1/4 choke to keep her running right even when warmed up..when REAL cold out. then GX160 engine can be like that.
Buddy of mine has one on his gen that he got from the USA,. we get -40weather and same deal...
governor on his is just bouncing out of control , Carb / crankcase ventilation tube ice up... all the time...
You need to buy a model that is labeled.
"Cold Climate Technology"
is specifically designed cold Canadian winters and Run GREAT in -40 !
Use a copper coil to heat up water and circulate through the battery box, works in the sun :-)
Hello guys!! I feel like I'm stalking you guys. Anyways I was working outside again, and nothing would start!! While I was changing the fuel I was thinking about this video!! Anyways its just that time of year!! I hope yesterdays advice worked!! Please keep me updated. Have a good weekend.
You can't have your batteries in subzero temps. You should divert heat into battery box. The gen manual would have told you about it's operating temps and oil requirements. Spec sheet for your batteries will tell you temp conditions too.
I think I remember you saying these were used batteries. It's important to realize that batteries have a limited life. With a 60 month battery, you might get 61 or 62 months and that's it. In your case, that's due to the chemical reaction between the lead and the sulphuric acid. If a battery looses it's charge, the water will freeze and then crack. Now you will have acid all over and that will have to be neutralized with a baking soda. Let me be very clear about this. If your batteries are really important, go get new ones. Best of luck and keep up the good work. I really like your show. Buffalo, NY