@@jamesplotkin4674 …not in the sky but in heaven, my friend ….and soon he‘ll come back to earth and brings us X-mas joy …but also sends us rain and thunder, floodings and viruses to be a pain in our arse. Btw: I also prefer binding posts. LOL
A nice courteous and professional response to the question Giving due difference to somebody whose knowledge and opinion you respect. All too rare in my experience
I also think Danny is a great guy, my personal experience dealing with him when I bought a speaker kit off of him was first class customer service all the way. I live in Canada, I bought his speaker kit and used a shipping forwarding service. The kit shows up with no tweeter. It 100% was the shipping company I used that messed up but Danny stepped up and I paid for shipping and he sent me a new pair of tweeters. Sadly the wrong tweeters showed up but I brought that to his attention and he immediately sent out the correct set and let me keep the ones sent in error. he absolutely.stepped up.when he didn't have too and that's got to be appreciated, and it speakers volumes about his character. The way I see it, if hes telling you it'll make a difference I believe him. Is the product worth 60? It most likely costs him 5 maybe 10. Could you make it yourself? Absolutely but it's going to cost you a lot more then 5 or 10 dollars. In Canada it would cost probably 40 but it probably wouldn't be as good. This would be a product where precision matters. So with all that I say, it is what it is. It's expensive, but, over all it holds its value and at the same time supporting an awesome dude that 100% has your back if you do business with him. And let's net forget that high quality copper binding posts cost at least as much as his Electra connectors which are 100% copper where it makes the connection
Danny's point is that his tube connectors are pure copper and many if not most binding posts have ferrous metal which he believes negatively affects the sound. And yes, lots of contact area.
This is a good point. Ferromagnetic components in the signal chain should be avoided. Having said that, not all binding posts are of poor quality or composed of ferro-magnetic material. In the end it's about the music. If you're spending 90% of your hard earned dollars on your sound system and only 10% on your music library, you're most likely a gadget lord or audiophile that doesn't appreciate music. (and that's okay - each to their own habits and hobbies). Personally I would keep the cost ratio between Music Library and sound system to more than 3. (preferably around 5 or higher - ie spend 20% on the sound system and 80% on your music library. If you're Elon Musk you can forget about this ratio and spend $2.5 million on your sound system and buy every CD or vinyl record on the market) Cheers
i dont think that is his point. like yeah he doesnt like ferrous materials in the signal path, but you can do that with brass binding posts (or copper sure). i think the point of tube connectors is that they directly connect the speaker wire to the speaker's internal wire
If anyone believes they can tell the difference between ferrous and copper connectors by listening to identical systems (but for these connectors) on a blind basis, and correctly identify which system sounds “better” in say 8 out if 10 trials, they are delusional. If by some miracle they can, and they are willing to place a dollar amount on the incremental “goodness” they hear that is more than say $100, there is another word less charitable word for them, but I’ll be kind and just say they are Danny’s next customer.
Danny's tube connectors are in actual fact the real deal and make a -very- big improvement, so big I put them on all my speakers (actually I made my own from scratch... Danny's are a bit better... regardless, the improvements are very audible).
Elements of tube connectors; The incoming/outgoing conductors essentially create a butt joint, encased in maximal contact area, minimal mass, absent ferro-magnetic interactions. All laudable efforts, worthy of pursuing. ... as opposed to inches between incoming/outgoing conductors, interspersed w/multiple material differences of various types and masses, both ferrous and non-ferrous.
Yes, great explanation! Brings the two conductors very close together. These are not banana plugs and posts by any means. Most of the comments and Paul too, have no clue.
There are no "ferromagnetic interactions" in a simple, low impedance, relatively low frequency amp-to-loudspeaker connection. Danny -- who thinks that using a steel nut to secure the internal end of a binding post is a big no-no -- is an accomplished speaker system and driver guy who inexplicably (and AFAICT sincerely) believes in a fuktonne of audiophool codswallop. He also views PVC-insulated hook-up wire as taboo for internal speaker system wiring and claims to have heard its detrimental effect. IMO he's a weird hybrid of an expert and trustworthy loudspeaker professional and a de facto audiophool cult leader -- YMMV.
As I understood things, I thought the cooper connectors Danny recommends are directly connecting to the internal components inside the speaker (crossover board, etc). Many binding posts in speakers are made from ferrous steel, which according to Danny are best avoided and there may be substandard internal connection points to those binding posts The banana connection that happens to the speaker on the outside may be an improvement over a binding post connection, but the fact Danny's replace the innards of the binding post fixture inside the speaker is part of the improvement this upgrade is supposed to provide. Whether all audiophiles could hear an improvement is up to the ears (and mind). My ears are on par with an old Labrador Retriever, so it may be a reach for me to hear a difference.
Agreed. I personally cannot hear ANY differences among connectors be they binding post, spring clips, or even the screw terminals that were common on vintage receivers.
Audiophile claims can easily be tested and confirmed or debunked. What's audible should always be measurable. What's measurable is not always audible. The last part is just due the fact that our hearing range is a fragment of the total range. There is even a weird logic that looks of a speaker can make consumers believe its output is better. And looks and story is what thrive the most important factor in sales. The reason I like these vlogs is that Paul is a likeable character and a salesman / storyteller with a heart in what he is telling. It doesn't mean that I take these opinions as truth because he will never tell a popular opinion is bs. That would mean a believer and potential client might not buy a product. All should be aboard.
@@Stan_the_Belgian I agree with you, the biggest issue I’ve had is with binding posts on vintage speakers: they should have reverse threads internally so that when you tighten the terminal outside it doesn’t loosen the securing nut on the inside. I have three acoustic suspension speakers in my system right now that I need to open up the backside, pull the padding, and tighten the back-nut.
bananaplugs when you want to remove speakers easily for dusting or swapping. Binding posts if you keep your speakers connected for a long time. Sound wise it doesn't matter a bit. Just make sure that things are well connected.
I ended up liking the hollow Z-type banana plugs over spades or other types of large banana plugs. They have lots of firm contact area and are soldered on the ends of wire without needing large pieces of different types of metal housings and possibly small screws. It seems to benefit from the less is more theory. Love ‘em.
What Internet is this? Two people showing respect to each other even with slightly different ideas? No flame wars? No insults? Civility, especially in audiophile realm? Two adults acting like adults, speaking about topics they have some expertise on... All I can say is.... Bravo. If I'm in the market for new audio gear I'd love to hear some PS Audio sources connected to some GR research modded speakers!
I've use binding posts and banana plugs. In both cases, oxygen is the enemy. I re-tighten my binding posts and re-seat my banana plugs every six to twelve months. I started using DeoxIT on both types of connections, and they need it less often.
I was dreading changing out the binding posts on my JBL L112s. I really wanted to leave them stock, but I was having a bit of a short on one side despite being a very secure connection. Before I pulled the trigger, I thought I'd spend the 15 bucks on a can of DeoxIT to see if that would clean up the problem with the binding posts. Sure enough, it did. My question to you is, do you use the DeoxIT on any other connectors in your set up, such as RCA plugs? From what I've read it's pretty harmless.
The climate makes a difference. In Finland we have central heated homes and they are very dry, especially during winter. I've never noticed any oxidation on cables. But I've lubed pots and switches with contact spray on my vintage Pioneer amp.
Danny's speaker designs are pretty sweet and his upgrades are certainly well researched and of high quality. I'm not sure about the tube connectors but they couldn't hurt. Chances are they are more durable and would ensure a very solid connection that would not degrade as much as other connectors over time. Perhaps sound with connectors is not as important as durability? In any case 60 dollars is too much for me for connectors.
With banana plugs, to me the issue is low contact pressure, and oxidation. If it works, it's fine, but that can change. A bit of metal oxide in the gap could cause crackles, or even turn the connection into a crude radio detector diode, so the signal could run around the feedback, get amplified and suddenly you've got radio busting in on your music. I've had this with my old J.L.Lindsley-Hood class 'A' amp. I changed to bare wires and brass posts, because that's what I had in stock :-)
I am curious about the terms of Banna plug and tube plug. I personally do not like Banana plugs as over the years I have had one or two breaks and they do not have the surface area of connection that a "tube" type connector has. I will always use a tube connector that is made of pure copper for the best results and ease of use. This is all my own opinion of course.
I think the theory behind his method of connecting speaker cable to the driver units wire is an advantage because twisting the wires together tightly without using any kind of connectors or binding posts is the lowest form of loss. Paul should do some experiments with GR products and see what he can hear he also does things like on his crossovers twists wires together and then solders them
I prefer the locking banana plugs where you turn a knob on top to tighten the connection. You can also piggyback them if you’re using high level subwoofer connections. I’ve found that spade connectors will loosen themselves if counterclockwise pressure is put on the speaker cable. You are recommended to disconnect and reconnect metal connections from time to time because of oxidation.
Well it seems Danny has quite an audience! I've watched tons of his vids and I must say he makes a lot of sense in them. $60 for a set of tube connectors seems a bit extravagant to me, however. I've seen reviews of his speaker kits, especially the XLS Encore, and all are very positive. They are probably going to be my next kit. Personally, I use a good quality solid brass binding post with kind of a springy tube connector on my cables. The work really well. Yes, CABLES make a difference. Binding posts, meh... Use whatever you think is best for you.
I don't get how you can believe cables can make such a difference but binding posts don't? I thought you are either in the makes a difference camp or you aren't with that kind of thing.
I wish the home audio market would just use the speakON connections like the pros do rather than binding posts, banana plugs or *shudder* bare wire....it's such a nice connection! Maybe it's a bit overkill but at least you have peace of mind your connection is always going to be tight.
there is nothing wrong with bare wire as long as you avoid your dirty and sweaty fingers touch copper directly - no rocket science for a task every 10 or 20 years
@@glenncurry3041 And XLR connectors, which are great with mics. They have a tight space for soldering thick speaker cables, but they were the best pro's choice in 1970/80.
I've used binding posts all my life, but at my age, I'd prefer banana plugs. They would make switching loudspeakers and amps much easier. Especially with AVR amps. There is not much space between 5-7 speaker outputs for decent 2,5 mm2 (12-14 gauge) cables. Some fine day...
Once you try binding posts and cable connectors with a higher content of pure copper, and other forms of plating besides just gold, you can not only hear how much of a difference better connectors can make but also how bad brass can sound.
This in addition to having lower mass and higher surface area are the explanations he's given. And I agree all those factors make logical sense, but I would like to see tests backing that up, both measured and listening test.
There is no benefit to "the removal of (tiny amounts!) of ferrous metal" from a typical low impedance, relatively low frequency amp-to-loudspeaker circuit.
I am glad that neither my equipment nor my discernment is of a level that things like connectors, cables or interconnects make any difference to me. Obviously electronics and speakers do, but that's about it.
But when is the larger surface contact large enough? I.e. would it improve the quality if any connector would be double or 10 times the size? I don't think so.
Contact surface area can be good, but unfortunately, I find low contact presssure makes it more likely that oxxidation and/or dirt can cause a bad connection, so you need to bump up the total pressure in line with surface area. I guess gold plating avoids oxidation, but then you need to watch out, because if you solder to gold-plated connectors you have to be aware of gold embrittlement of the solder joint. Few things are as simple as they look, in my experience :-)
@@RupertReynolds1962 Correct, all connections are very critical: those between power amplifier / cable / speakers for example must withstand extremely high current peaks. Everything flows in a few mm. P.S. Sorry for my bad English
@@edgar9651 All the energy of your power amplifier has to pass only on a small contact surface, the better and larger the surface, the less resistance it will encounter. P.S. Sorry for my bad English.
For the best result, you need to avoid contacts but otherwise use gold plated contacts with large surface areas. One problem with contacts is that over time, the inevitable (daily) thermal expansion and contraction can result in micro-debris. This will accumulate and tarnish (and chemically modify the resistance), if not gold, and can eventually intrude and deteriorate the contact surface area itself. Obviously this is not a problem over short periods or frequently (re)jacked contacts, but if, for example, a system is installed and thereafter left to its own devices for years, then this can become significant.
A low impedance is the only important thing. Binding posts and bare multicore are probably the best for that (at audio frequencies), providing many points of contact.
The human ego is tricky little bugger! It loves to disagree & "win" on some of the most insignificant things. I enjoyed Paul's respectful answer. 🙏 I also enjoy watching both youtube channels! 🥳 Fun stuff! 😉🦉🍺
Haha sometimes one makes a choise and needs to stick with it. If that leads to dishonesty to self, it can well lead to honestly having an false opinion stated as a fact. cheers mate, I like your observation.
With any connector connected to a wire, proper application of the terminal to the wire per the manufacturer's instructions is essential to getting the best performance. Plated brass binding posts would be preferred to steel. Just don"t use a pair of pliers to crimp the spades to the wire. Use the tool recommended by the manufacturer of the spades. Also select a spade that is made for your wire size. Lot's of stuff on UA-cam about crimping contacts onto wires.
I agree with Danny's ideology completely.... except that it's "non-standard". If I put tube sockets on my speakers, I cannot so easily plug them into different systems, without lots of other changes. But.... his science is sound.
I cannot hear any differences between binding posts and simple spring clips used on budget receivers. Also, what is wrong with the #18 lamp cord that we used back in the 1970s and 1980s?
I own a bunch of "vintage" JBL LX22 two-way bookshelf speakers. The U.S.-made ones have spring connectors, the ones made in Denmark have 5-way binding posts suitable for banana plugs, spade lugs, or stripped wire ends. Those two variants perform identically when connected to the same cable with stripped and solder-"tinned" speaker wire ends --- and those old-fashioned spring connectors don't need periodic tightening.
@@bikemike1118 I don't know. I used it back then and I'm using it today. It's cheap and it works great. AND, it's much easier to work with than those multi-hundred dollar garden hose size speaker cables that the audiophile community claims sound better.
Wow! You use 18 guage? Are your speaker wires 50 feet long? Back in my day we use 22 gauge wire and at work just fine. The only thing that matters is if it can carry the current without melting. That is it. That is all. If you say that you can hear a difference between 22 gauge wire and those fancy things that audiophiles use then... /s
I have always favored the type that gives me the most robust mechanical adhesion for the type of cable I'm using at the time. I just don't want my leads coming off on my tube amp and I don't want fuzzy strays ruining my solid state adventure.
The ideal connection would be to solder your speaker wire directly to the crossover. Of course that's super inconvenient if you ever want to change anything out.
@@glenncurry3041 And whatever connector you have on the back of your speaker will be soldered internally and the connector on your wire (unless using bare wire) will likely also be soldered on.
Nothing at all. Just bare wire, one or two turns and tightly screwed on to the binding post. It helps if it's solid core. I prefer 18AWG OCC solidcore silver for anything above subwoofer. Theoretically, it has no skin effect up to 20KHz and does not limit base current either. So, why add another useless solder-joint (wire soldered to spade or banana) and another useless interface area? Even if you achieve a better, wider contacting surface, you still have an inferior solder-area or clamped-area right before it. It may sound crazy to some people, but, yes, I DO hear some difference.
Not a big fan of banana plugs or spade connectors. anytime you add an additional point of connection there is loss. Also i don't feel banana are tight enough. like using the bare wire and clamping it down in the post. go back every few weeks for the first couple month as copper is soft and you can always get 1/8 turn more. does anyone do that with banana plugs? that's why when people change cables they say wow because the old cables got lose over time. in GR Research i believe his tube connectors create a wire to wire connection Almost like you are soldering the wires together. Haven't tried them but would say Best Connection.
I prefer banana plugs - with the caveat that they need to be well made banana plugs. My choice is the QED Airloc Forté metal banana plugs - they're cold weld crimped onto the cables, have a 24k gold-plated over copper brass body connection, and as they're spring loaded they ensure a nice tight and secure fit.
My understanding is after metal type its contact pressure and not surface area that's important. AQ have played with this idea for many years. Spades are simple but you can get banana connectors that expand to increase contact pressure too. Which is best... if you need to know then congratulations your hifi journey is finished.
have you ever tried soldering all the connections? im serious. From the amplifier to the speaker crossovers. I solder the wires inside the speakers on ones ive worked on.
Simple you don't need to spend 60 dollars buy some 4 mm copper pipe or 5 mm copper pipe cut to length and glue with epoxy resin, you can use the same pipe as the the connector slice it vertically three quarters 2/3 it's length, will slide in the pipe a nice tight fit round of the end, buy for about one-and-a-half dollars $2 You can use pure silver tubing as well still not expensive well below $60 Polish the copper inside some toothpaste on a Q-Tip and then apply some 3 and 1 oil to the connector and and banana plug prevent tarnishing Never use two different metals in their connector and plug. A good quality resin core 6% silver solder buy audio note. Find a bit of red nail varnish put the Dot just above the plus
Many MANY banana plugs resonate. The potential detriment from this FAR outweighs any difference in conductivity, which frankly don't exist so long as the connection is firm. It's incredibly eye-opening (ear-opening?) to run a simple frequency sweep on your system. You're very likely to discover resonances (rattles) you had no idea existed, despite how loud they actually are. You don't need any kind of special equipment or software - assuming you can connect your computer to your system, there are plenty of online tone generators around. I have often found that the speaker connections, and banana plugs in particular, are one of the worst culprits when it comes to such resonances.
There is a dichotomy in Danny’s world. When it comes to speaker mods and kits he talks the talk and walks the walk. I have big respect for his speaker work. When it comes to wires, interconnects, and the like, he makes dubious claims he cannot support in the same way as with his work on speakers. And when challenged on the discernible difference his cables make, especially for the money, he turns hostile and defensive (at least in his UA-cam vids and responses to comments). That tells you all you need to know IMO.
Have you seen the video "Do Audiophile Cables Matter? Here's PROOF!", from Danny ? That certainly seems to substantiate, not just his claims, but a lot of everyone else's' claims. (He also asserts that braiding is better than simple shielding and reasonably explains that rational.) As for "especially for the money"... What is the value of anything? One dollar for you may be no more value than one cent for someone else. “A horse, a horse! My kingdom for a horse!”
@@bossybill7437 yup. Seen it. I contend double blind testing is the only way to validate the benefits of cables and other exotica that doesn’t have an obvious sonic signature like speakers, cartridges, amps, etc. . If the benefits are so obvious he should have nothing to fear and everything to gain by doing blind testing. He can sit back and bask as 8 out of 10 blind panelists not only declare his cables better than a control, but also deem the sonic difference worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. If, however, the perceived benefits are driven even in part by confirmation bias (I just spent $xxx therefore this must sound good), and a clear preference is not shown, then blind testing would be an existential threat to a purveyor of such equipment. . After multiple contentious back and forth exchanges with him (including his assertion blind testing “can’t be done”) he agreed he would do blind testing ( so I guess it can be done). That was over six months ago. Still waiting. Again, he is tops with speakers and has credibility there. The dichotomy is striking.
@@edd2771 IMHO it seems to me you position is disingenuous. Danny show us an experiment that is easily repeatable by everyone and the results were more than obvious. If you cannot accept that some cables add noise and others reduce that noise, based on what he showed AND that you can independently verify, there is no point discussing this any further. You are simply choosing to be 'pig-headed'. In regards 'the money'. You chose to simply brush away everything I said about the value of money being different to different people and for different reasons. Again... you are being 'pig-headed' and there's also no point discussing this any further.
@@bossybill7437 You don’t know me. I am but words on a page to you. But I can assure you that I am neither disingenuous nor pig-headed. These kinds of personal attacks as a form of argument are not convincing, and are typical of the way Danny himself responded. Off-the-charts defensiveness tells one something. You must have spent BIG money on cables. That’s fine. I hope you enjoy them. But ultimately, the only experiment I am interested in for this kind of esoterica is one that determines: do they SOUND BETTER on a BLIND basis, and can the differential “goodness” have a price put on it? We merely disagree, and for my part I’m sure you are both sincere and lucid,, if not a bit bossy (but you seem to be aware of that). Regardless, I’d be happy to continue the dialogue, as my position is perfectly rational.
Unless as u say your forever swapping leads where the strain relief matters not just resistance.Connectors themselves make no difference. Pros use neutrik from lichtenstein nr germany but general hifi no change in sound q.
Yes I think the advantage with certain types of connectors would be in their durability including resistance to oxidation rather than an immediate change in sound.
Hello Paul, maybe watch some of Danny's videos about speaker cables and how he explains them. I am pretty sure you won't respect him after that anymore. I used to watch Danny's videos and he seems to be competent. Until that moment when he lost it.
@@anonimushbosh It wasn't just one day. It was weeks. And in each of those videos he repeated the same s$#t, just worse. After that I never watched any of his videos anymore. An expert who tells BS is no expert.
Things not taken into consideration in this discussion is the connection between the actual wire and either the spade or banana plug or whatever other connection you might use. Is it a crimp type or screw on or soldered connection. I personally prefer a soldered connection where I can use a good silver solder to a gold plated spade. For really heavy gauge wire bananas are just not that practical.
Hey guys, I’m relatively new to the field of fine audio, but I really enjoyed hearing the Magnepans at a showroom in Markham(Ontario, Canada) and I really want to buy it. But unfortunately all the amps that seem to make a difference with it, were well above my price range. I finally found the NAD C 316 bee V2, which had a couple of good reviews on UA-cam. Do you think it’s a good idea to go with the NAD ? Or do you have an alternative suggestion that probably doesn’t break the bank ($500 USD and under please). Any thoughts and help with this would be greatly appreciated . Sincerely from Canada, Rangan
Veryting you do makes a difrens bere wire is always best i do the ands evry januari speaker end amp ands end i have 12 Gauge solid bi wire on 2 monoblock advance Paris bx2 The test i made wite strand or solid whas 1 of the best things iv done
This entirely missed Danny's point about the banana connectors he's recommending. Danny has explained that he thinks it is best to have a minimal amount of metal mass in the connector between the conductors being connected. Certainly not magnetic and of high quality conducting material, but also having the connections of good contact of minimal material thickness between the conductors which are SOLDERED to the connectors. It is a deceptive idea since his connectors look simple, but that's the point.
Practically, unless the connectors are ridiculously undersized or have severe conduction issues such as oxidation between contacting areas, I doubt there's any measurable and/or difference.
I understand that this whole Audiophile thing is big business, but Binding Posts / Connectors having an effect on sound quality? This has gone too far. As long as your connectors are not broken, appropriately sized for power handling and is not made out of Duct Tape, there is absolutely no effect.
I believe that some commentators get a bit excited when discussing cable differences. However, when questioned, the same individuals will qualify the differences to an acceptable level.
cables make a HUGE diff. there is no controversy. there is only those who can hear & those who cannot. ive always been bewildered why everyone knows some people can *see* better, *run* better, *taste* ingredients better.....but people think _everyones_ *hearing* is identical. ludicrous.
Hey Paul, you mention using spade connectors with binding posts, I’ve just taken delivery of some Elac debut five point twos and I was wondering if you can recommend spade connectors that I might use with this pair of speakers. It would be good to hear from you. Take care.
Aslo Danny mentions that most binding posts are made of ferrous metals and has magnetic field can rune the sound quity so he's way copper to copper connection better because copper is not ferris metal
So you're saying we should use shielded speaker drivers, because the magnetic field from speaker drivers will be greater than that generated in a connector?
Dannys copper tube connectors are a good business model. It wont break the bank for most people and will help GR research! In the end a lot of things in this hobby come down to psychology and not so much science.
Why not solder the speaker cables to the amp and speakers? That should be the best possible connection. Or not? Why don't talk audiophiles about that option? Or would it be just too cheap? No expensive things to sell?
Soldering/heating up those surfaces may loosen other components on the board, or damage the board, not worth the risk of minimal change for that reason alone.
So look fo cables made of best copper, covered with silver, shielded. Pay lods of money and than put at the end brass connectors as much of them with regular price are made of? Can someone explain me how it has no impact on the sound? What the hell is all this cable for in that case? Lets use brass made. I tell you something. Cheap, few dolars a piece, connectors will downgrade your sound. Use pure copper ones.
Some people honestly believe a load of crap and aren't afraid to talk about it. Better terminations use good-sized SCREWS that can be tightened Very firmly, but they aren't convenient to work with and very few, if any, amplifiers or speakers use them.
Connectors can fail due to corrosion and vibration whereas a 'hard connection' will last much longer. I've had to replace patchbays that have aged out and become non-dependable but never a hard connection (soldered) where heat buildup and expansion/contraction isn't an issue.
Banana plugs or spade terminals will allow a better surface area of connection. But they have to be terminated properly( soldered with heat shrink ). The only issue with binding posts is that the cable is open to the elements. To be honest I can’t hear a difference.
Thing is , you can use a banana connection with a binding post. Danny's thesis is that these Electra connectors are thin walled copper and you push the speaker wire all the way into said connector, crimp it, then seal with solder. Both male and female. The ends then of the wire from the driver and speaker cable are in as a close proximity as possible without soldering them together. I also believe that he truly believes this, but it then limits the use of other cables. What if you want to use another cable, have a pair on loan to try? I have to install them on every set of speaker cables I own or might try? I'll stick with a high quality five way binding post even if it's doesn't give me that last nth degree of performance. Not to mention I have not been able to find any other dealer, audio enthusiast, etc., mention of any kind to backup or verify his claims. Not one. If their are any, I'd like to know.
Despite all the waffle that dealers etc would make about cables, it wouldn't work so well if you are limited to one type of connection. The cable idea works based on people being able to put no effort in and just connect up whatever cable they choose and supposedly get some sort of benefit from it. Ease of use seems to be the go with many of these audio products - "we've done all the work, you just have to plug it in and listen"
Hey Paul, thanks for inviting me to respond. I shot a quick video to explain how a tube connector works and what makes it better than other types of connections. I also covered some comparisons of various connectors and the cost of some of the better quality binding posts compared to tube connectors. Enjoy the video and post any questions that you might have. ua-cam.com/video/gInqJGvMT_8/v-deo.html
They go to this trouble to create connectors that can only be used with one type - may as well hard wire the speakers. No additional connection at all, in fact cheapo speakers used to use this all the time, so they must sound incredible
To be fair, the GR Research tube connector is not a typical male -only banana plug. It is full connection (male & female), on the speaker and the wire... I cannot comment on the sound, but for pricing it's not really apples to apples with spades. And for the most part, these are for speaker builders to use in the build process, not a retro fit accessory (though it probably could be with some speaker box modifications)...
I remember when I was naive and stupid (last year) a friend told me to use banana connectors. So I went to the fruit shop and bought a kilo of bananas... I am too embarassed to finish the story.
Every time I have to use a threaded binding post and bare stripped wire I cuss, I cuss to myself, or openly scream. This is the most STUPID engineering in the stereo market. I have a complete and expensive recording studio, EVERYTHING has proper jack connections, quick and solid. XLR, TR, TRS, RCA, USB, MIDI, AC....all intelligent good solid connections without problems....except amp speaker connections....just crap for these. I am expected to get out a soldering iron and make my own connector, whether a flat spade or whatever horrible engineered idea of a connection they can think of. ?????? why.
"He doesn't say anything that he doesn't honestly believe himself" sums it up.
@@jamesplotkin4674 …not in the sky but in heaven, my friend ….and soon he‘ll come back to earth and brings us X-mas joy …but also sends us rain and thunder, floodings and viruses to be a pain in our arse. Btw: I also prefer binding posts. LOL
@@jamesplotkin4674 Convicted much..
@@bikemike1118 Yep Banana plugs for a clean look. Lol
@@adaboy4z but ONLY for the clean look 🍌
@@adaboy4z , non as much as he soon will be
A nice courteous and professional response to the question
Giving due difference to somebody whose knowledge and opinion you respect. All too rare in my experience
Love your dog pic :)
I also think Danny is a great guy, my personal experience dealing with him when I bought a speaker kit off of him was first class customer service all the way. I live in Canada, I bought his speaker kit and used a shipping forwarding service. The kit shows up with no tweeter. It 100% was the shipping company I used that messed up but Danny stepped up and I paid for shipping and he sent me a new pair of tweeters. Sadly the wrong tweeters showed up but I brought that to his attention and he immediately sent out the correct set and let me keep the ones sent in error.
he absolutely.stepped up.when he didn't have too and that's got to be appreciated, and it speakers volumes about his character.
The way I see it, if hes telling you it'll make a difference I believe him. Is the product worth 60? It most likely costs him 5 maybe 10. Could you make it yourself? Absolutely but it's going to cost you a lot more then 5 or 10 dollars. In Canada it would cost probably 40 but it probably wouldn't be as good. This would be a product where precision matters. So with all that I say, it is what it is. It's expensive, but, over all it holds its value and at the same time supporting an awesome dude that 100% has your back if you do business with him.
And let's net forget that high quality copper binding posts cost at least as much as his Electra connectors which are 100% copper where it makes the connection
I do banana plugs as I change out speakers and equipment often. Not ideal but I like the convenience
Take a look inside your amplifier and see the wire gauge they used and any push-on connections. Then decide.
In mine from the speaker connectors to the amp board is 18 guage. I get your point.
Danny's point is that his tube connectors are pure copper and many if not most binding posts have ferrous metal which he believes negatively affects the sound. And yes, lots of contact area.
This is a good point. Ferromagnetic components in the signal chain should be avoided.
Having said that, not all binding posts are of poor quality or composed of ferro-magnetic material.
In the end it's about the music.
If you're spending 90% of your hard earned dollars on your sound system and only 10% on your music library, you're most likely a gadget lord or audiophile that doesn't appreciate music. (and that's okay - each to their own habits and hobbies).
Personally I would keep the cost ratio between Music Library and sound system to more than 3. (preferably around 5 or higher - ie spend 20% on the sound system and 80% on your music library. If you're Elon Musk you can forget about this ratio and spend $2.5 million on your sound system and buy every CD or vinyl record on the market)
Cheers
i dont think that is his point. like yeah he doesnt like ferrous materials in the signal path, but you can do that with brass binding posts (or copper sure). i think the point of tube connectors is that they directly connect the speaker wire to the speaker's internal wire
If anyone believes they can tell the difference between ferrous and copper connectors by listening to identical systems (but for these connectors) on a blind basis, and correctly identify which system sounds “better” in say 8 out if 10 trials, they are delusional. If by some miracle they can, and they are willing to place a dollar amount on the incremental “goodness” they hear that is more than say $100, there is another word less charitable word for them, but I’ll be kind and just say they are Danny’s next customer.
Danny's tube connectors are in actual fact the real deal and make a -very- big improvement, so big I put them on all my speakers (actually I made my own from scratch... Danny's are a bit better... regardless, the improvements are very audible).
I'm glad that neither my equipment nor my taste is at a level of discernment that any of this could make a difference to me.
Elements of tube connectors;
The incoming/outgoing conductors essentially create a butt joint, encased in maximal contact area, minimal mass, absent ferro-magnetic interactions.
All laudable efforts, worthy of pursuing.
... as opposed to inches between incoming/outgoing conductors, interspersed w/multiple material differences of various types and masses, both ferrous and non-ferrous.
Yes, great explanation! Brings the two conductors very close together. These are not banana plugs and posts by any means. Most of the comments and Paul too, have no clue.
There are no "ferromagnetic interactions" in a simple, low impedance, relatively low frequency amp-to-loudspeaker connection. Danny -- who thinks that using a steel nut to secure the internal end of a binding post is a big no-no -- is an accomplished speaker system and driver guy who inexplicably (and AFAICT sincerely) believes in a fuktonne of audiophool codswallop. He also views PVC-insulated hook-up wire as taboo for internal speaker system wiring and claims to have heard its detrimental effect. IMO he's a weird hybrid of an expert and trustworthy loudspeaker professional and a de facto audiophool cult leader -- YMMV.
As I understood things, I thought the cooper connectors Danny recommends are directly connecting to the internal components inside the speaker (crossover board, etc). Many binding posts in speakers are made from ferrous steel, which according to Danny are best avoided and there may be substandard internal connection points to those binding posts The banana connection that happens to the speaker on the outside may be an improvement over a binding post connection, but the fact Danny's replace the innards of the binding post fixture inside the speaker is part of the improvement this upgrade is supposed to provide. Whether all audiophiles could hear an improvement is up to the ears (and mind). My ears are on par with an old Labrador Retriever, so it may be a reach for me to hear a difference.
Audiophiles don't hear - they imagine and believe without any backing
Agreed. I personally cannot hear ANY differences among connectors be they binding post, spring clips, or even the screw terminals that were common on vintage receivers.
Audiophile claims can easily be tested and confirmed or debunked. What's audible should always be measurable. What's measurable is not always audible. The last part is just due the fact that our hearing range is a fragment of the total range. There is even a weird logic that looks of a speaker can make consumers believe its output is better. And looks and story is what thrive the most important factor in sales.
The reason I like these vlogs is that Paul is a likeable character and a salesman / storyteller with a heart in what he is telling. It doesn't mean that I take these opinions as truth because he will never tell a popular opinion is bs. That would mean a believer and potential client might not buy a product. All should be aboard.
They look good and are easy to switch, I prefer banana in the receiver easy to switch and binding posts on the speaker
@@Stan_the_Belgian I agree with you, the biggest issue I’ve had is with binding posts on vintage speakers: they should have reverse threads internally so that when you tighten the terminal outside it doesn’t loosen the securing nut on the inside. I have three acoustic suspension speakers in my system right now that I need to open up the backside, pull the padding, and tighten the back-nut.
I use twist locking bananas. I can almost lift my GFA555 with them connected! I can assure you it is a very solid contact with good surface area.
Keep trying, Glenn! I know you can do it! 🤣
bananaplugs when you want to remove speakers easily for dusting or swapping. Binding posts if you keep your speakers connected for a long time. Sound wise it doesn't matter a bit. Just make sure that things are well connected.
Yea, that's a valid point.
I am thinking if you want the best, solder directly to the speaker. Could leave a pigtail hang out of the cabinet to solder to. Zero cost too.
I ended up liking the hollow Z-type banana plugs over spades or other types of large banana plugs. They have lots of firm contact area and are soldered on the ends of wire without needing large pieces of different types of metal housings and possibly small screws. It seems to benefit from the less is more theory. Love ‘em.
What Internet is this? Two people showing respect to each other even with slightly different ideas? No flame wars? No insults? Civility, especially in audiophile realm? Two adults acting like adults, speaking about topics they have some expertise on... All I can say is.... Bravo. If I'm in the market for new audio gear I'd love to hear some PS Audio sources connected to some GR research modded speakers!
I've use binding posts and banana plugs. In both cases, oxygen is the enemy. I re-tighten my binding posts and re-seat my banana plugs every six to twelve months. I started using DeoxIT on both types of connections, and they need it less often.
I was dreading changing out the binding posts on my JBL L112s. I really wanted to leave them stock, but I was having a bit of a short on one side despite being a very secure connection. Before I pulled the trigger, I thought I'd spend the 15 bucks on a can of DeoxIT to see if that would clean up the problem with the binding posts. Sure enough, it did. My question to you is, do you use the DeoxIT on any other connectors in your set up, such as RCA plugs? From what I've read it's pretty harmless.
The climate makes a difference. In Finland we have central heated homes and they are very dry, especially during winter. I've never noticed any oxidation on cables. But I've lubed pots and switches with contact spray on my vintage Pioneer amp.
Danny's speaker designs are pretty sweet and his upgrades are certainly well researched and of high quality. I'm not sure about the tube connectors but they couldn't hurt. Chances are they are more durable and would ensure a very solid connection that would not degrade as much as other connectors over time. Perhaps sound with connectors is not as important as durability? In any case 60 dollars is too much for me for connectors.
With banana plugs, to me the issue is low contact pressure, and oxidation. If it works, it's fine, but that can change.
A bit of metal oxide in the gap could cause crackles, or even turn the connection into a crude radio detector diode, so the signal could run around the feedback, get amplified and suddenly you've got radio busting in on your music. I've had this with my old J.L.Lindsley-Hood class 'A' amp. I changed to bare wires and brass posts, because that's what I had in stock :-)
I agree - for that reason I like nicely sealed and gold plated contacts.
I am curious about the terms of Banna plug and tube plug. I personally do not like Banana plugs as over the years I have had one or two breaks and they do not have the surface area of connection that a "tube" type connector has. I will always use a tube connector that is made of pure copper for the best results and ease of use. This is all my own opinion of course.
Perhaps you could try some in your new speakers Paul, would be an interesting experiment 👍
I love the mutual respect here between this two audio gurus. Pleasure to be a follower!
I think the theory behind his method of connecting speaker cable to the driver units wire is an advantage because twisting the wires together tightly without using any kind of connectors or binding posts is the lowest form of loss. Paul should do some experiments with
GR products and see what he can hear he also does things like on his crossovers twists wires together and then solders them
I prefer the locking banana plugs where you turn a knob on top to tighten the connection. You can also piggyback them if you’re using high level subwoofer connections. I’ve found that spade connectors will loosen themselves if counterclockwise pressure is put on the speaker cable. You are recommended to disconnect and reconnect metal connections from time to time because of oxidation.
Well it seems Danny has quite an audience!
I've watched tons of his vids and I must say he makes a lot of sense in them. $60 for a set of tube connectors seems a bit extravagant to me, however.
I've seen reviews of his speaker kits, especially the XLS Encore, and all are very positive. They are probably going to be my next kit.
Personally, I use a good quality solid brass binding post with kind of a springy tube connector on my cables. The work really well.
Yes, CABLES make a difference. Binding posts, meh...
Use whatever you think is best for you.
Who is this mysterious Danny btw ??
@@bikemike1118 Danny @ GR RESEARCH is a crossover and speaker guru, I have learned a lot from watching his videos ! Highly recommended !
@@Shawn-wy1pb thx for the information. Will check him out …just to see.
I don't get how you can believe cables can make such a difference but binding posts don't? I thought you are either in the makes a difference camp or you aren't with that kind of thing.
You CAN be, in fact, both a brilliant designer AND.. a man who buys into the upgrade "woo".
I wish the home audio market would just use the speakON connections like the pros do rather than binding posts, banana plugs or *shudder* bare wire....it's such a nice connection! Maybe it's a bit overkill but at least you have peace of mind your connection is always going to be tight.
speakON was to replace 1/4 jacks. Higher resistance than spade or bananas.
Same. The first time i saw speakon connectors, my mind was blown. I was wondering why it's not more widely adapted.
there is nothing wrong with bare wire as long as you avoid your dirty and sweaty fingers touch copper directly - no rocket science for a task every 10 or 20 years
Yes, Speakons are very reliable and easy with pro audio, like PA systems.
@@glenncurry3041 And XLR connectors, which are great with mics. They have a tight space for soldering thick speaker cables, but they were the best pro's choice in 1970/80.
I've used binding posts all my life, but at my age, I'd prefer banana plugs. They would make switching loudspeakers and amps much easier. Especially with AVR amps. There is not much space between 5-7 speaker outputs for decent 2,5 mm2 (12-14 gauge) cables. Some fine day...
Once you try binding posts and cable connectors with a higher content of pure copper, and other forms of plating besides just gold, you can not only hear how much of a difference better connectors can make but also how bad brass can sound.
Really ?
I think Danny's thought is the removal of ferrous metal from the connection and making a connector that is close as possible to having no connector.
This in addition to having lower mass and higher surface area are the explanations he's given. And I agree all those factors make logical sense, but I would like to see tests backing that up, both measured and listening test.
No Banana plug you are right
There is no benefit to "the removal of (tiny amounts!) of ferrous metal" from a typical low impedance, relatively low frequency amp-to-loudspeaker circuit.
I am glad that neither my equipment nor my discernment is of a level that things like connectors, cables or interconnects make any difference to me. Obviously electronics and speakers do, but that's about it.
Larger contact surface = lower electrical contact resistance. That's all. Greetings from Italy. 🟩⬜🟥
But when is the larger surface contact large enough? I.e. would it improve the quality if any connector would be double or 10 times the size? I don't think so.
Contact surface area can be good, but unfortunately, I find low contact presssure makes it more likely that oxxidation and/or dirt can cause a bad connection, so you need to bump up the total pressure in line with surface area.
I guess gold plating avoids oxidation, but then you need to watch out, because if you solder to gold-plated connectors you have to be aware of gold embrittlement of the solder joint. Few things are as simple as they look, in my experience :-)
@@RupertReynolds1962 Correct, all connections are very critical: those between power amplifier / cable / speakers for example must withstand extremely high current peaks. Everything flows in a few mm.
P.S. Sorry for my bad English
@@edgar9651 All the energy of your power amplifier has to pass only on a small contact surface, the better and larger the surface, the less resistance it will encounter.
P.S. Sorry for my bad English.
@@Vincenzo_F your English is not bad at all, but if I may say: I think you are referring to impedance and not resistance (which is DC only).
A good banana plug will provide constant pressure. The metal will creep with binding posts, and so they will require periodic retightening.
For the best result, you need to avoid contacts but otherwise use gold plated contacts with large surface areas.
One problem with contacts is that over time, the inevitable (daily) thermal expansion and contraction can result in micro-debris. This will accumulate and tarnish (and chemically modify the resistance), if not gold, and can eventually intrude and deteriorate the contact surface area itself. Obviously this is not a problem over short periods or frequently (re)jacked contacts, but if, for example, a system is installed and thereafter left to its own devices for years, then this can become significant.
A low impedance is the only important thing. Binding posts and bare multicore are probably the best for that (at audio frequencies), providing many points of contact.
Bare wire is the worst - copper tarnishes and corrodes.
The human ego is tricky little bugger!
It loves to disagree & "win" on some of the most insignificant things.
I enjoyed Paul's respectful answer. 🙏
I also enjoy watching both youtube channels! 🥳
Fun stuff! 😉🦉🍺
Haha sometimes one makes a choise and needs to stick with it. If that leads to dishonesty to self, it can well lead to honestly having an false opinion stated as a fact. cheers mate, I like your observation.
With any connector connected to a wire, proper application of the terminal to the wire per the manufacturer's instructions is essential to getting the best performance. Plated brass binding posts would be preferred to steel. Just don"t use a pair of pliers to crimp the spades to the wire. Use the tool recommended by the manufacturer of the spades. Also select a spade that is made for your wire size. Lot's of stuff on UA-cam about crimping contacts onto wires.
Connector do make a big difference in my suprice but yes especially in power cords cheers
I soldered my cables to the crossover inputs.
Beat THAT!!
Why don't you try a set of tube connectors on some prototype speakers? Danny thinks they make a huge difference and leave no stone unturned otherwise.
I agree with Danny's ideology completely.... except that it's "non-standard". If I put tube sockets on my speakers, I cannot so easily plug them into different systems, without lots of other changes. But.... his science is sound.
Its simple: if the connectors inside your favourite speakers are cheap you replace them with better ones 😀
Old School Infinity's had P2P soldered x-overs back when everyone else was on PCBs, so there must be some truth in it.
I cannot hear any differences between binding posts and simple spring clips used on budget receivers. Also, what is wrong with the #18 lamp cord that we used back in the 1970s and 1980s?
I own a bunch of "vintage" JBL LX22 two-way bookshelf speakers. The U.S.-made ones have spring connectors, the ones made in Denmark have 5-way binding posts suitable for banana plugs, spade lugs, or stripped wire ends. Those two variants perform identically when connected to the same cable with stripped and solder-"tinned" speaker wire ends --- and those old-fashioned spring connectors don't need periodic tightening.
@@editorjuno Oh! I forgot about the periodic tightening issue.
…nothing wrong with your lamp cord at all! As long as you use it only for a lamp, my dear
@@bikemike1118 I don't know. I used it back then and I'm using it today. It's cheap and it works great. AND, it's much easier to work with than those multi-hundred dollar garden hose size speaker cables that the audiophile community claims sound better.
Wow! You use 18 guage? Are your speaker wires 50 feet long? Back in my day we use 22 gauge wire and at work just fine. The only thing that matters is if it can carry the current without melting. That is it. That is all. If you say that you can hear a difference between 22 gauge wire and those fancy things that audiophiles use then...
/s
Those are not banana plugs that he sells they are direct wire. Butt to butt wiring.
Dannys connectors are nice
I have always favored the type that gives me the most robust mechanical adhesion for the type of cable I'm using at the time. I just don't want my leads coming off on my tube amp and I don't want fuzzy strays ruining my solid state adventure.
PS Audio + Danny = a snake oil cocktail
The ideal connection would be to solder your speaker wire directly to the crossover. Of course that's super inconvenient if you ever want to change anything out.
Actually solder has a higher resistance.
@@glenncurry3041 And whatever connector you have on the back of your speaker will be soldered internally and the connector on your wire (unless using bare wire) will likely also be soldered on.
@@G3rain1 If you actually looked inside speakers you would know how absolutely wrong you are!
@@glenncurry3041 Idk what you're eluding to, I've looked inside a fair number of speakers and there solder all over the place.
@@G3rain1 Look up "anecdotal".
Nothing at all. Just bare wire, one or two turns and tightly screwed on to the binding post. It helps if it's solid core. I prefer 18AWG OCC solidcore silver for anything above subwoofer. Theoretically, it has no skin effect up to 20KHz and does not limit base current either. So, why add another useless solder-joint (wire soldered to spade or banana) and another useless interface area? Even if you achieve a better, wider contacting surface, you still have an inferior solder-area or clamped-area right before it. It may sound crazy to some people, but, yes, I DO hear some difference.
Not a big fan of banana plugs or spade connectors. anytime you add an additional point of connection there is loss. Also i don't feel banana are tight enough. like using the bare wire and clamping it down in the post. go back every few weeks for the first couple month as copper is soft and you can always get 1/8 turn more. does anyone do that with banana plugs? that's why when people change cables they say wow because the old cables got lose over time. in GR Research i believe his tube connectors create a wire to wire connection Almost like you are soldering the wires together. Haven't tried them but would say Best Connection.
I prefer banana plugs - with the caveat that they need to be well made banana plugs. My choice is the QED Airloc Forté metal banana plugs - they're cold weld crimped onto the cables, have a 24k gold-plated over copper brass body connection, and as they're spring loaded they ensure a nice tight and secure fit.
Dear Paul,
Have you tried soldering the connectors? Maybe this way you could test how good interchangeable connectors really are :)
My understanding is after metal type its contact pressure and not surface area that's important. AQ have played with this idea for many years. Spades are simple but you can get banana connectors that expand to increase contact pressure too. Which is best... if you need to know then congratulations your hifi journey is finished.
have you ever tried soldering all the connections? im serious. From the amplifier to the speaker crossovers. I solder the wires inside the speakers on ones ive worked on.
Was it ironic about the Cables make "Big Differences" or is it the truth? Thanks for the Video ☺️✨
Simple you don't need to spend 60 dollars buy some 4 mm copper pipe or 5 mm copper pipe cut to length and glue with epoxy resin, you can use the same pipe as the the connector slice it vertically three quarters 2/3 it's length, will slide in the pipe a nice tight fit round of the end, buy for about one-and-a-half dollars $2
You can use pure silver tubing as well still not expensive well below $60
Polish the copper inside some toothpaste on a Q-Tip and then apply some 3 and 1 oil to the connector and and banana plug prevent tarnishing
Never use two different metals in their connector and plug.
A good quality resin core 6% silver solder buy audio note. Find a bit of red nail varnish put the Dot just above the plus
Good one. Or find online stores that do bang for buck. Got 4 "luxury ones" for less than a euro each.
Bare wire or spades/banana, if you are not changing speakers often?
Many MANY banana plugs resonate. The potential detriment from this FAR outweighs any difference in conductivity, which frankly don't exist so long as the connection is firm. It's incredibly eye-opening (ear-opening?) to run a simple frequency sweep on your system. You're very likely to discover resonances (rattles) you had no idea existed, despite how loud they actually are. You don't need any kind of special equipment or software - assuming you can connect your computer to your system, there are plenty of online tone generators around. I have often found that the speaker connections, and banana plugs in particular, are one of the worst culprits when it comes to such resonances.
There is a dichotomy in Danny’s world. When it comes to speaker mods and kits he talks the talk and walks the walk. I have big respect for his speaker work. When it comes to wires, interconnects, and the like, he makes dubious claims he cannot support in the same way as with his work on speakers. And when challenged on the discernible difference his cables make, especially for the money, he turns hostile and defensive (at least in his UA-cam vids and responses to comments). That tells you all you need to know IMO.
Have you seen the video "Do Audiophile Cables Matter? Here's PROOF!", from Danny ?
That certainly seems to substantiate, not just his claims, but a lot of everyone else's' claims.
(He also asserts that braiding is better than simple shielding and reasonably explains that rational.)
As for "especially for the money"... What is the value of anything?
One dollar for you may be no more value than one cent for someone else.
“A horse, a horse! My kingdom for a horse!”
@@bossybill7437 yup. Seen it. I contend double blind testing is the only way to validate the benefits of cables and other exotica that doesn’t have an obvious sonic signature like speakers, cartridges, amps, etc. . If the benefits are so obvious he should have nothing to fear and everything to gain by doing blind testing. He can sit back and bask as 8 out of 10 blind panelists not only declare his cables better than a control, but also deem the sonic difference worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. If, however, the perceived benefits are driven even in part by confirmation bias (I just spent $xxx therefore this must sound good), and a clear preference is not shown, then blind testing would be an existential threat to a purveyor of such equipment. . After multiple contentious back and forth exchanges with him (including his assertion blind testing “can’t be done”) he agreed he would do blind testing ( so I guess it can be done). That was over six months ago. Still waiting. Again, he is tops with speakers and has credibility there. The dichotomy is striking.
@@edd2771 IMHO it seems to me you position is disingenuous.
Danny show us an experiment that is easily repeatable by everyone and the results were more than obvious. If you cannot accept that some cables add noise and others reduce that noise, based on what he showed AND that you can independently verify, there is no point discussing this any further. You are simply choosing to be 'pig-headed'.
In regards 'the money'. You chose to simply brush away everything I said about the value of money being different to different people and for different reasons. Again... you are being 'pig-headed' and there's also no point discussing this any further.
@@bossybill7437 You don’t know me. I am but words on a page to you. But I can assure you that I am neither disingenuous nor pig-headed. These kinds of personal attacks as a form of argument are not convincing, and are typical of the way Danny himself responded. Off-the-charts defensiveness tells one something. You must have spent BIG money on cables. That’s fine. I hope you enjoy them. But ultimately, the only experiment I am interested in for this kind of esoterica is one that determines: do they SOUND BETTER on a BLIND basis, and can the differential “goodness” have a price put on it? We merely disagree, and for my part I’m sure you are both sincere and lucid,, if not a bit bossy (but you seem to be aware of that). Regardless, I’d be happy to continue the dialogue, as my position is perfectly rational.
He has fully supported his wiring claims.
Unless as u say your forever swapping leads where the strain relief matters not just resistance.Connectors themselves make no difference. Pros use neutrik from lichtenstein nr germany but general hifi no change in sound q.
Yes I think the advantage with certain types of connectors would be in their durability including resistance to oxidation rather than an immediate change in sound.
Never had a problem with bananas.
Same here - good quality bananas are perfectly fine.
Banana plugs if you change out gear often....but a tight binding will make a better connection
Hello Paul, maybe watch some of Danny's videos about speaker cables and how he explains them. I am pretty sure you won't respect him after that anymore. I used to watch Danny's videos and he seems to be competent. Until that moment when he lost it.
He was smoking some weird shit that day that's for sure.
@@anonimushbosh It wasn't just one day. It was weeks. And in each of those videos he repeated the same s$#t, just worse. After that I never watched any of his videos anymore. An expert who tells BS is no expert.
I would like to see Paul visit Danny and listen to his 'microscope". Then I would like to see Danny visit Paul and listen to Paul's 'microscope".
Is a matter of taste my Amp to speakers connection is just pure 02 free bare wire and I use Deoxit lubricant say every 4 to 6 months it works for me
Things not taken into consideration in this discussion is the connection between the actual wire and either the spade or banana plug or whatever other connection you might use. Is it a crimp type or screw on or soldered connection. I personally prefer a soldered connection where I can use a good silver solder to a gold plated spade. For really heavy gauge wire bananas are just not that practical.
Hey guys,
I’m relatively new to the field of fine audio, but I really enjoyed hearing the Magnepans at a showroom in Markham(Ontario, Canada) and I really want to buy it. But unfortunately all the amps that seem to make a difference with it, were well above my price range. I finally found the NAD C 316 bee V2, which had a couple of good reviews on UA-cam. Do you think it’s a good idea to go with the NAD ? Or do you have an alternative suggestion that probably doesn’t break the bank ($500 USD and under please). Any thoughts and help with this would be greatly appreciated .
Sincerely from Canada,
Rangan
Quick connects are for Dj gear and band equipment
I prefer bare wire
i use bare cable single core clamped directly on binding post.
Veryting you do makes a difrens bere wire is always best i do the ands evry januari speaker end amp ands end i have 12 Gauge solid bi wire on 2 monoblock advance Paris bx2
The test i made wite strand or solid whas 1 of the best things iv done
Its Friday nite!
I'm hoping to plug my banana into somthin!
Its happy hour!
⏰🍻💃🕺🍌💘🤡🤣
This entirely missed Danny's point about the banana connectors he's recommending. Danny has explained that he thinks it is best to have a minimal amount of metal mass in the connector between the conductors being connected. Certainly not magnetic and of high quality conducting material, but also having the connections of good contact of minimal material thickness between the conductors which are SOLDERED to the connectors. It is a deceptive idea since his connectors look simple, but that's the point.
When you want the best sound, it doesn't hurt to have a few magic crystals and/or a rabbit's foot in your pocket.
Does PS Audio sell these crystals and rabbit's feet?
@@VinnyCThatWhoIBe Don't feed the Trolls
Darn, thanks for the tip, will have to add those to my lucky clover... 🤣
I get your point.
I get your point.
...and then there's spades! 👌
Practically, unless the connectors are ridiculously undersized or have severe conduction issues such as oxidation between contacting areas, I doubt there's any measurable and/or difference.
I use Sith Audio crystals and batteries with my connectors
I’m a Sith man myself.
I understand that this whole Audiophile thing is big business, but Binding Posts / Connectors having an effect on sound quality? This has gone too far. As long as your connectors are not broken, appropriately sized for power handling and is not made out of Duct Tape, there is absolutely no effect.
If cables made a big difference there wouldn't be a controversy it would be obvious.
I believe that some commentators get a bit excited when discussing cable differences. However, when questioned, the same individuals will qualify the differences to an acceptable level.
cables make a HUGE diff. there is no controversy.
there is only those who can hear & those who cannot.
ive always been bewildered why everyone knows some people can *see* better, *run* better, *taste* ingredients better.....but people think _everyones_ *hearing* is identical. ludicrous.
Hey Paul, you mention using spade connectors with binding posts, I’ve just taken delivery of some Elac debut five point twos and I was wondering if you can recommend spade connectors that I might use with this pair of speakers.
It would be good to hear from you.
Take care.
Aslo Danny mentions that most binding posts are made of ferrous metals and has magnetic field can rune the sound quity so he's way copper to copper connection better because copper is not ferris metal
So you're saying we should use shielded speaker drivers, because the magnetic field from speaker drivers will be greater than that generated in a connector?
@@RennieAsh I really don't know talk to Gr- Research
@@dandonna852 too much fluff from them when it comes to certain things :)
@@RennieAsh yep when 30 watts or more? going thought the line I think over powering the little amount of magnetism?
Nothing to do with fishing Paul, it's Kilgore Trout's hometown.
Say no to cheese
Cheesy posts and noodley cables are the worst...
All those ferrous posts=cheese
Dannys copper tube connectors are a good business model. It wont break the bank for most people and will help GR research! In the end a lot of things in this hobby come down to psychology and not so much science.
Why not solder the speaker cables to the amp and speakers? That should be the best possible connection. Or not? Why don't talk audiophiles about that option? Or would it be just too cheap? No expensive things to sell?
Soldering/heating up those surfaces may loosen other components on the board, or damage the board, not worth the risk of minimal change for that reason alone.
Because solder is a shitty material in case it can be avoided
My 2 cents is pure copper beats brass especially if the "100% pure brass" comes from the region near Wuhan lab
So look fo cables made of best copper, covered with silver, shielded. Pay lods of money and than put at the end brass connectors as much of them with regular price are made of?
Can someone explain me how it has no impact on the sound? What the hell is all this cable for in that case? Lets use brass made.
I tell you something. Cheap, few dolars a piece, connectors will downgrade your sound. Use pure copper ones.
Some people honestly believe a load of crap and aren't afraid to talk about it.
Better terminations use good-sized SCREWS that can be tightened Very firmly,
but they aren't convenient to work with and very few, if any, amplifiers or speakers use them.
60+ dollar speaker connects...... I'll hard wire mine to the crossover before that.
That's all most what they are. Only the connection at the box wall can be separated.
LOL I've thought about doing the same thing.
“I’ve never known Danny to say anything”………that didn’t try to persuade you to buy something from him.
I have tried to explain that to some of his devout followers of course they don't get it.
Reminds of Danny's the on speaker cables catching all kind of radio frequencies
Connectors can fail due to corrosion and vibration whereas a 'hard connection' will last much longer. I've had to replace patchbays that have aged out and become non-dependable but never a hard connection (soldered) where heat buildup and expansion/contraction isn't an issue.
Banana plugs or spade terminals will allow a better surface area of connection. But they have to be terminated properly( soldered with heat shrink ). The only issue with binding posts is that the cable is open to the elements. To be honest I can’t hear a difference.
Thing is , you can use a banana connection with a binding post. Danny's thesis is that these Electra connectors are thin walled copper and you push the speaker wire all the way into said connector, crimp it, then seal with solder. Both male and female. The ends then of the wire from the driver and speaker cable are in as a close proximity as possible without soldering them together. I also believe that he truly believes this, but it then limits the use of other cables. What if you want to use another cable, have a pair on loan to try? I have to install them on every set of speaker cables I own or might try? I'll stick with a high quality five way binding post even if it's doesn't give me that last nth degree of performance. Not to mention I have not been able to find any other dealer, audio enthusiast, etc., mention of any kind to backup or verify his claims. Not one. If their are any, I'd like to know.
Despite all the waffle that dealers etc would make about cables, it wouldn't work so well if you are limited to one type of connection. The cable idea works based on people being able to put no effort in and just connect up whatever cable they choose and supposedly get some sort of benefit from it.
Ease of use seems to be the go with many of these audio products - "we've done all the work, you just have to plug it in and listen"
Hey Paul, thanks for inviting me to respond. I shot a quick video to explain how a tube connector works and what makes it better than other types of connections. I also covered some comparisons of various connectors and the cost of some of the better quality binding posts compared to tube connectors. Enjoy the video and post any questions that you might have.
ua-cam.com/video/gInqJGvMT_8/v-deo.html
Thanks, Danny!
Bananas only for the fruit bowl for me 🍌
They go to this trouble to create connectors that can only be used with one type - may as well hard wire the speakers. No additional connection at all, in fact cheapo speakers used to use this all the time, so they must sound incredible
To be fair, the GR Research tube connector is not a typical male -only banana plug. It is full connection (male & female), on the speaker and the wire... I cannot comment on the sound, but for pricing it's not really apples to apples with spades. And for the most part, these are for speaker builders to use in the build process, not a retro fit accessory (though it probably could be with some speaker box modifications)...
Danny sells them as "a retro fit accessory" as part of his various mod kits.
@@editorjuno I guess you would just vacate the binding post assembly, and drill new holes?
@@jordesign -- Yup. 7/16" (11mm) holes IIRC.
I remember when I was naive and stupid (last year) a friend told me to use banana connectors. So I went to the fruit shop and bought a kilo of bananas... I am too embarassed to finish the story.
…and the bananas 🍌 became brown much too soon as the sound of your system got worse. End of the story
Yeah, cables make a big difference, yet they never, ever passed blind test in the history of audio. Snake Oil people!!!!
Sometimes we can learn more from the comment section.
Every time I have to use a threaded binding post and bare stripped wire I cuss, I cuss to myself, or openly scream. This is the most STUPID engineering in the stereo market. I have a complete and expensive recording studio, EVERYTHING has proper jack connections, quick and solid. XLR, TR, TRS, RCA, USB, MIDI, AC....all intelligent good solid connections without problems....except amp speaker connections....just crap for these. I am expected to get out a soldering iron and make my own connector, whether a flat spade or whatever horrible engineered idea of a connection they can think of. ?????? why.
I'm getting a headache.
Hadji has aspirin.