hello #AskGCNTech last year i bought a second hand bike as an affordable entry into the sport. It turns out i really like cycling and i think i am ready for a new step forward. i currently have a cervelo S2 from 2009 with a dura ace 9 speed groupset (also from 2009). would it be best to upgrade the groupset to something more recent but still rimbrakes (the frame is rimbrake only) or upgrade the groupset and frame to a discbrake setup. kind regards.
#AskGCNTech I am storing a bike for several months, in a location near the seaside. Is it advisable to give the bike (particularly parts like the gears, brakes, and other metal surfaces) a light covering of oil to protect it from the elements?
Hello #AskGCNTech I’m looking for a new bike, and im stuck between a new canyon CF SL 8 Disc with an manual ultegra, and a specialized venge PRO Disc with ultegra Di2, this one is secondhand and 3 years old, for which one should I go?
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN Tech crew! I am planning to add a set of carbon wheels with road tires to my gravel bike, to switch the wheels whenever I am riding only road. I am looking at a set of ZIPP 303S's, but I wonder if hookless design with max tire pressure of 70 psi be ok for me as a heavier rider over 100 kg. Pls let me know what do you think. Thanks!
#AskGCNTech I know Alex loves TRI, and I’ve noticed that all the GCN presenters have swapped out their Whoop straps for Polar (Garmin?) watches, even though Whoop is still listed as a sponsor - are the GCN presenters ready to lose their socks and become triathletes?
For the numb foot question, I had that when starting riding 2 years ago, and had to loosen the shoes. However, the permanent fix was that my cadence was way too low. So I was 'muscelling' down on the pedals as I had done all my life - mashing/grinding away. Watching and learning from all manner of videos I realised I needed to quicken it up with associated gear change too. Now at 90 rpm target cadence it has all been fine. Hope this helps.
That and don't buy cycling shoes from specialized without consulting with a bike fitter/physiotherapist/orthopedics first.. The tilted sole is not suitable for everyone, learned that lessen the hard way.
I did several things to minimize numb foot. 1.stiff insole from Specialized. 2. Got a shoe that was 1/2 size bigger because your feet swells as you ride 3. Increased q factor of pedals widdened stance with washers /spacers. This seems to help eliminate knee pains that I had from time to time
I hadn’t even thought about cadence as being part of my problem, but I do believe my average cadence has increased as my numbness went away. I also changed my shoes, learned not to tighten neatly so tight and got a bike fit.
Yep, I also had this problem, and looser shoes fixed it. If you can, you only need to loosen the shoe at the toe end, and you can still keep some tightness around the top of the foot (towards your ankle)
@@stephenwatkins7592 just get assioma Duos. Nothing drives you more crazy than multiple power meters as none of them will match, just the way it is. Also you can borrow/hire a bike and always have power data. Bonus, you aren't left wondering what your REAL power numbers are with dual sided.
@titaniumben9923 its very easy to slope 2 power meters to match. You need to smart trainer or power pedals to do it but you can borrow them if you don't have them
False economy, you will regret it sooner or later when you are on a different bike. Trust me, I bought a stages left crank. Ended up spending again. I would have saved money going straight to pedals. Best thing is you can travel, and always have the same power meter - which is actually far more critical than many realise. Saves you wondering why your pacing with your hired bike up your dream climb isn't right. Let's you just enjoy the ride.
I've been using something called Power Pod. It uses air pressure and some very clever maths. Been working a few years now. Very easy to swap between bikes.
I've all my tubeless tires patched, first I started using self-sticking patches but they weren't the best option for the tubeless tire, later on I went for normal patches and I even had to put a normal patch upon a self-sticking patch. What I prefer to do is to put the patch without stretching the tire or making it inside-out, thus, the tyre and the patch will get the same shape when inflated and there will be no risks of re-opening the puncture.
Except you can’t easily swap out pedal types on the Assiomas. Garmin Rally are superior for the interchangeability, allowing you to easily swap between Look-style, Shimano road, or Shimano SPD
FWIW regarding the 1X versus 2X for gravel and MTB, for years I thought the 1X was crazy until I tried it. Now I will not go back. If you ride terrain with radically changing gradients and conditions, 1X is absolutely the way to go. If all you have ever ridden in 2X, I suggest renting or borrowing a friend's 1X bike to see just how much more efficient it is with regard to not f#%@ing around with the shifting.
100% sympathise with the viewer & numb feet / toes. Happens to me as well & my short term solution is undoing the shoes for a while & riding like that for a bit but when I tighten them up again the numbness returns. Only happens on longer rides of about 40-50 miles plus but my feet will always be numb for the rest of the ride after that point. Tried different shoes. cleat position, insoles, pedal system & saddle height all with the same result - still numb feet. Only thing I haven’t tried is a bike fit but as I have pretty much the same position on 3 bikes I’m not sure that is the answer. TBH though I don’t know what is.
As to the power meter question, the Favero Assioma pedals are not only the least expensive, but most accurate power meter option on the market. I opted for the single side, because I really don't care about which leg might be doing a few percent more work than the other. The pedals are really nice, allow you to keep wearing your Look Keo cleats if that's what you're wearing currently, and they also auto calibrate, so you don't need to spend any time calibrating them before every ride. I also like this option because I can take them off my road bike and put them on my gravel bike and off I go. Just remember that if you do switch bikes, you'll need to calibrate them before the first ride. Rainmaker did a pretty comprehensive video on different power meters, and he agreed with my assessment.
Yep 100% - never buy a power meter that is locked to one bike. Pedals are the way to go for economic reasons, you will always be riding with power data regardless of if you're even on your own bike/s. The other reason is data is only as good as the data you put in. Bad data in = bad data out. If you always use the same power meter you remove one of the biggest reasons/questions about power targets or fitness signatures.
It really can be a lot more than a few percent. But more importantly, many peoples imbalance changes with their effort. I'm a left bias by about 3% when I'm in z2. But when I'm in z4/5, I'm right biased by about 5% it really would make for very bad data if I had a one sidesld pedal. I've seen even worse numbers from others when doing bike fits for them.
Little known fact: Jim Felt was a mechanic for Honda's powerhouse motocross team in the 80's. Most of the riders did off-motorcycle training on a bicycle. Jim started building bicycles and the rest became history.
I wonder if his word was as dodgy as the QC for Felt? I've had send so many aero frames back out of the box due to crooked aerobars/forks and aero seatposts that wouldn't let you have a straight saddle😂
Re patching a small puncture in tubeless tire. Normally latex based sealants will stop the leak and form a permanent seal, nothing else is needed. I've found dozens of sealed punctures when replacing worn tires and only once needed a separate patch - that was a longish sidewall cut, not a puncture.
It never seizes to amaze me the things GCN recommends when it's your money that's being spent. You want to patch a tubeless tire just buy a tube of RTV Black Gasket maker and spread it around the inside of the tire in the area where the puncture is. I promise you won't ever have to worry about the patch coming loose. And it would only cost a couple of bucks for a tube that will last for many punctures. Coming from the mountainbike side of cycling I know this works because I've done it hundreds of times.
Regarding patching tubeless tires. I use common inner tube patches on the inside of a tubeless tire. I do my best to clean the area on the tire with alcohol and of course make sure it is clean of dried sealant. I do this for punctures that won't seal or stay sealed from sealant alone. Also, I've done this when for whatever reason a tire plug hasn't held.
With respect to chain checkers they worked well for me on shimano-setups but with campa veloce I couldn't find any relevant stretch or typical wear on any teeth for that matter after about 10.000 km. By then it was high time to change the chain as well as the cassete to get back the shifting-performance the bike used to have.
Spider-based power meters don't get enough attention I think. If you want true power, not just left x 2, a spider will do it. Pro is that there are spider-based meters (p2m ng eco) at around the same price as a left only. the con is that you'll never have independent L/R in the future. They can provide estimates through software, but it's not measured. Looking at FTP, power curves, and doing intervals does not require left/right values. I've switched to pedals to get left/right to track a dodgy knee (new ACL and LCL) and I can see if left drops that my knee is fatiguing long before I feel it, and then know to back up to below the threshold for a few rides. If I didn't require that, I would've stuck with the $300 FSA Powerbox Allow that I had, which was a crankset with a rebadged ng-eco.
Hi GCN Tech Team, what would happen if I ride a bike with more wight than it is offically declared good to go? I am taller than Conor and have 100kg, but many bikes have the same wight limit for their XXS bikes as for their XXL ones, often 110kg or 120kg. Add the wight of the bike to mine and it gets close already, not even talking about bike packing. Would you assume a gravel bike ridden on road can take on more wight than what it is declared for, as it is smoother riding? #AskGCNTech
Nice video and presentation. Following page 2:30 numbness toe? I tried everything I can think of, failed. Such as - closed all vent holes, toe insulation, cleats types, cleats positioning forward/aft/L/R/angle, tight/loose lacing, thin/thick socks and finally shoe size “bingo” which was the root cause. Changed from #40 to 41? Improved some, change again to 42? No more discomfort. A quick search told me that (1) all bike shoe manufacturers share a common sole model of champion bikers, tall and slender but we are short and fat. Sole models are narrow or too narrow, in the metatarsal for the averaged bike enthusiasts. (2) manufacturers love to use cheap and harder plastic that doesn’t entertain the metatarsal to avoid nerve pinching. (3) they forgo shoe lace, but the mass market are not professional bikers, only dresses like one. (4) Test fit the way we did on a walking shoe wouldn’t tell the problem until we stress our foot on the paddle in a bike run, by the time we found out $100 or so wasted. (5) bike shoe with softer sheath and a normal to a wider metatarsal fit can cost more than the price of a full group set. Solution for cheap and hard sheath cleats shoe? (1) shift cleats to far back position. (2) Up the shoes size by one to two notches. (3) Soft shim our heel to keep the metatarsal in the widest section in sole. I use two size up to a cleats and rigid shoe to make up space for warm socks in cold wet weather.
I bought a Rock Shox Reverb AXS XPLR dropper port and it shows quite some torsional play which is clearly noticeable when riding. How much torsional play would you see as normal?
#AskGCNTech I have started going back to Group Rides and trying to be better. Is it better joining a group at your current pace level and be in front pulling or join a faster pace level and sit at the back trying hard not to get dropped. Thanks!
Hello, I'm one year post-op from a dual organ transplant and started cycling to get into shape and get some outside time. My question is I'm having trouble standing and riding my bike up climbs and when I stay sitting it feels like I am going to fell backwards. What are somethings I can do or works to help with that. I'm using clipless shoes and paddles. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Two questions, answer one or both: 1. I have a road bike on which I have put clip-on aero bars. It works OK but I'm wondering whether it is feasible to put an actual TT-cockpit on the bike instead. Is it unheard of or can I just buy a new handlebar, redo my cable routing, and have Bob as my uncle? 2. What rectifies the extreme price differences between similarly speced Triathlon Bikes? I'm thinking Cervelo P Series and Canyon Speedmax vs Specialized Shiv and Scott Plasma? What makes the latter cost three times as much?
1) Not feasible. 2) Canyon is a consumer-direct brand, meaning no LBS carries their bikes as they only sell to customers directly from Koblenz, Germany. This allows them to not go through distributors and LBS' that contribute to a bike's markup, therefore making their bikes less expensive despite the sweet spec.
Anti-seize can be used on pretty much anything, especially on bolts most prone to galvanic corrosion and those made out of titanium. I personally use it on stem bolts, bottle cage bolts, pedal threads and multiple M3 & M4 bolts (these things are small). As for things like the cassette lockring, grease will do. Medium-strength threadlocker is usually pre-applied on the bolts of 6-bolt rotors, make sure not to go crazy on the torque spec, otherwise you might find yourself stripping the Torx T25 interface when it comes time to remove them. Ask me how I know.
#AskGCNTech An upgradeability question : I have an MTB which I got used (which has a carbon frame -Poison Graphan MTB , 26" mavic wheels and some old parts, from the ex owner). I got this thinking I'll manually convert it to an ebike (yes, I have a detailed plan). However, someone threw a spanner in the works and I can actually lease an electric bike for pretty sum of 100 Eur a month. Does it make sense to still convert the old MTB or to sell it and get an EMTB? I will be using to commute all round the year and hit the trails with my colleagues. I live in Finland where snow and sleet are facts of life during the winter months.
Hi GCN Tech. I've recently bought a 'pre-enjoyed' bike, which came with aluminium rims. I'm putting my carbon wheels on it, so I have replaced the brake pads. It turns out that the pads that were on the bike were already carbon-specific pads (and better than the ones I'm putting on), but they have been used on aluminium rims. Jon said on previous GCN Tech video that you shouldn't keep the pads on when swapping between aluminium and carbon wheels. I won't be doing that), but what if anything, can you do to clean up carbon-specific brake pads if they have been used on aluminium rims? There is plenty of wear left on them. Cheers. #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
The problem with pedal-based systems is that there are very few for mtb clip-in pedals. Last time I checked there were only the Garmins and those are not cheap.
@@nstrug good point, hadn’t considered that. I have a 4iiii GRX crank now though that cost like half of the Garmin pedal, and I’m pretty happy with that investment now.
>having power-meters but really, the pedals are the best ones to get for versatility. Also on 1x to 2x conversion, if it is not a direct mount, you need to make sure that the tube is round and will fit a clamp-on and that there is clearance between the chain and tire, some bikes like the Dragon Bahamut have this sort of inter-compatibility in mind, other bikes like a Connondale SuperSix Evo CX are pretty much impossible to convert.
#GCNTech. Hi Alex. Just got a long awaited Orbea Gain. Great bike. Great to be assisted ;-). But ! The space between the interior of the left crank and the frame is too narrow to fit a cadence sensor (wahoo). Would you have a tip to solve this situation?
Wahoo's cadence sensor can be attached to your shoe on a Velcro strap. If yours doesn't have one, you gotta get creative with mounting methods, as long as it's secure on your shoe.
#AskGCNTech I'm looking to make a significant bike upgrade in the next year or two, leaning toward a titanium frame which are often available with custom geometry. I've never had a bike fit, would it be worth getting a bike fit before ordering a frame so it's exactly right, or should I get one that's reasonably close based on height and inseam and move the contact points around afterwards? Looking for an all-road/light gravel capable bike, not for racing or multi-day endurance stuff, but I do enjoy both speed and comfort.
I highly suggest getting a bike fit as a reputable bike fitter will be able to determine your most ideal geometry that's likely not found on any production frameset.
Recently upgraded from 105 to the newest 12-speed Ultegra Di2. Found in the settings in Shimano’s E-Tube app that I can change the speed of shifting. Wondering what are the pros and cons of choosing a “fast” or “very fast” setting for the speed of shifting rather than the “normal” setting. #AskGCNTech
It's literally written in the settings when you are setting it, faster may lead to less smooth changes and that's about it. Basically it's not worth worrying about, set and forget.
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie, Alex, Mannon and Mark! Quick drivetrain and carbon related question: -Is it ok to use Shimano´s connecting pins on unused spare links from previous chain installations and therefore get a new chain? And after two chain replacements even if the cassette looks great and well maintained is it mandatory to change it too? -During 2.5years (~12000Km/Year) my aerobar (SL-70 Aero) always creaked a bit, specially during hot days, climbs and sprints. How can we know when to change a carbon part for that matter even with the slightly below recommended torque values and very regular maintenance? Thank you and keep up the great work!
1) It's not very advisable. As long as the cassette's teeth are still OK, it can stay until they turn sharp. 2) Check the handlebar for structural damage and was it even installed with carbon paste in the first place?
#AskGCN, hey Alex (or less probably Ollie or Manon). If I want to travel with my back and put it into hard case, how should I approach to disassembling fully integrated cockpit? Remove bar from stem, stem from steering tube or both? Thanks!
It heavily depends on the cockpit and the bike as some of them have a steer stop, therefore not allowing the fork to rotate 90°. BikeBox Alan has the Triathlon Aero EasyFit for such bikes. Primarily designed for triathlon & TT bikes, which usually feature complex cockpits that are inconvenient to dismantle, it's also suitable for all road bikes (including those with integrated internal routing) as you only need to remove your wheels and pedals.
#AskGCNTech I was wondering if it would be more power efficient to ride behind someone with an aero bike or someone with a non-aero bike? Since maybe the aero bike will guide the air better or it will catch less wind so I’ll catch more.
#askgcntech Hi people. Love the show. May I ask a hydraulic brake question for all those post-mount frame gravel bike ninjas out there? I have an old 2016 Cannondale CAADX frame with mechanical post-mount brake callipers (which are really awful). I'm looking to upgrade the whole groupset to modern GRX 600, but can't fit GRX callipers as they're all flat-mount only. Would Shimano post-mount mountain bike brake callipers work with GRX hydraulic shifters, and if so which one would be most suitable and are there any pitfalls in terms of hydraulic hose fittings between gravel and mountain bike standards? Best wishes, Harley
#AskGCNTech I upgraded to clip less pedals a couple of years ago and used the easiest release tension whilst I was getting used to them. Now that I’ve got the hang of them, is there any point to making the release tension tighter?
Hi GCN Tech Team, I use a well known GPS cycling computer with a speed sensor and always wondered if I should have the circumference calculated automatically or manually. If manually should I use the value in the cycling computer manual, the circumference written on the manufacturers box / website (if stated) or calculate by rolling one revolution on the ground? Could you make a video so we can see the differences? #AskGCNTech
Hello GCN! I am going to ride up the alpe d'Huez or mont ventoux this summer. I only have deep (65mm) carbon wheels with rim brakes so I am worried for the wind and heat build up from the braking during the descent. Should I try and find replacement wheels or will it be fine if I am a bit cautious? #AskGCNTech
You should have an aluminium wheelset anyway, in case something happens to your carbon one. What I see people do frequently is they sell their AL hoops the moment they get their carbon ones, which is actually a mistake in my eyes. They practically got rid of their backup that could prevent their bike from wrenchwork-induced downtime.
#AskGCNTech Hi! I found my SPD-SL bolts doesn't reach the socket on my cycling shoes. Is it even possible? Is it safe to use M5x13mm bolts instead of those came with the cleat?
The only time I've encountered this is on one pair of cheap China-made shoes, where the plate with the female threads isn't at its closest position to the outsole. I had to use a bolt to pull the plate close. It's OK to use longer bolts (as long as you need), but get cleat bolts instead of generic M5 bolts as cleat bolts have a much larger head that's meant for sitting on the cleat bolt washers.
I prefer left side power crank(I got Stages). It doesnt wear like pedals and I can easily install it to my new bike beacause I buy only Shimano groupset.
I was going to go with the Stages, but fortunately the article I read said something about them not fitting some bikes depending on the distance between your left crank and the frame, and they gave a measurement. They would not have fit on my bike, not enough clearance. So I went with the Assioma pedals. I hear the Stages are really good though.
Agree - for the same reason. Pedal wear is a concern of mine. I have two Stages - one for e few years on the training bike and one on the new bike. They work a charm.
@@shepshape2585Stages says clearance must be AAA battery size (Gen 3) but it is bit too pessimistic. I was also worried about crank and frame (Canyon Inflite) clearance but I managed to find person who gave me his crank to try. It fitted perfectly and there is 3-4mm clearance between sensor body and frame.
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN, I personally dont have the biggest budget and im deciding between a smart trainer or a powermeter, whats the best option if i want to take my riding to the next level? Im deciding between the Tacx Flux S and the Faverro Assioma Uno's.
I have the Assioma Unos and I love them. That being said, I live in Florida and can ride pretty much every day outside. If you live somewhere that you can ride outside all the time, year round, go with the pedals. You can always use your Garmin (if you have a Garmin) to create workouts that you can do outdoors. However, if you live somewhere that prohibits riding outside year round for whatever reason, get yourself an inexpensive trainer. I have the Wahoo Kickr Snap, which is the wheel on budget option (I think I paid $500 new). I've had it for about three years now and it's still running as smoothly as day one. Trainers are a great way to beat the heat, or the rain, or the snow, or if you're short on time. Because you never stop pedaling on a trainer, they say an hour on a trainer is about the same as 1.5 hours outdoors. Also, if you sign up for Zwift or Trainerroad, they have some really good training programs. So I guess you just need to think about which option is more likely to motivate you to ride your bike more, because that's what will take your riding to the next level. Good luck!
@@shepshape2585 Thank you, this is really helpfull. Im leaning towards the powermeter and buying a second hand wheel on trainer, so I can so Zwift with powermeter and motivate myself in the winter.
Mr Alex. I want to put a Sram flat edge chain on my shimano groupset. I am not sure if they are compatible but I really like the look of the sram straight edge chains ! Help !
#AskGCNTech Hello. My question is less tech related and more tech adjacent. I am having a titanium bike made for me. Do I tip the bike shop? Do I not? Would a case of beer be okay as well?
At least appreciation is shown if you do because without the guys who built your titanium bike, you wouldn't be enjoying your sweet ride. It doesn't have to be beer, just ask what they usually prefer. It can be some other beverage or even a meal.
Hi Alex et al. I have a Canyon Grail which I love but really want to get DI2. What’s the best way to upgrade? Does Shimano have GRX DI2 (in the newer 8150 series)? #AskGCNTech
My favourite power meter is my homemade one. Since I changed to a single cell lipo and bypassed the Arduinos regulator its consistently within 2 - 3W of the Garmin Vector pedals for ride averages.
#askgcntech #askgcn hi team. I've just thrown a fair amount at a new fancy pants frameset. Do you recommend frame protection for road bikes or is that just for the MTB guys and gals? Thanks.
If you buy a pedal based power meter, make sure to have some spare batteries. In case of Garmin, they are of a bit uncommon type and you want to take spares with you if you go on a bike holiday.
Wish they'd just make all power meters with a rechargeable battery and USB charging. Although I guess with the low power use of these devices these days it would only get recharged 10 - 20 times in the life of the unit.
@@Ed.R Not a fan of that. Typical lithium polymer batteries loos quite a bit of charge just over time without use so you have to charge constantly. A Stages crank power meter runs almost a year with a CR2032 coin cell without thinking about anything. I prefer that over charging it every week.
@@chrisridesbicycles That's not been my experience of rechargeable lithium, in fact they are known for having very low self discharge rates. That's assuming the cell isn't damaged otherwise they can have very high self discharge rates to the point of heating up. Even my homemade nothing optimised for low power power meter has done the past 21 days of daily hour long rides on a single charge of its little lipo cell.
@@chrisridesbicycles My Assioma pedals are good for about 50-60 hours between charges, and when I do need to charge them, the charger is magnetic so you just "click" it onto the inside of the pedal where the meter is, and it charges in a few hours. I ride about 10-11 hours per week, so I just charge it the first of every month and I'm good to go. I've had them for three years and they still hold every bit of their charge.
Hello #AskGCNTech I’m looking for a new bike, and im stuck between a new canyon CF SL 8 Disc with an manual ultegra, and a specialized venge PRO Disc with ultegra Di2, this one is secondhand and 3 years old, for which one should I go?
First of all, what Canyon is this? Aeroad? Ultimate? Endurace? The CF SL name is not a model name. If the Canyon is an Aeroad, I recommend the Venge. Though it's rattly (a typical trait of aero bikes), it's light and fast. I've ridden one a few times and I like it. One of the only disadvantages is that it can't run mechanical groupsets.
#askgcntech. Hi guys and gals, problem with Tiagra 4700. Changed gear cable now gear won't change from 7th to 8th gear on big ring. Reset indexing and tried a different cassette (12-25 (Decathlon) & 12-28(Shimano)), no change. Help! Phil P
About the titanium pedal axels reacting with the alloy crank threads: galvanic corrosion could actually be a problem here, if the two metals come in contact through an electrolyte, such as (salty) water, as I understand it. An anti-seize compound, e.g. a non-metallic one, might be an idea in this case. But it's perfectly possible that standard grease will do the job just as well, mainly keeping any water out. I don't know enough about this to say for sure, but I also don't like the dismissive attitude of the GCN guy in this video - just because he's never heard of it doesn't mean it isn't an actual issue.
Hello team, I got a trek Domane Al2 Disc recently and I've been riding it I don't want to spend any money on fancy components just yet can you suggest me how can I improve my aero and measure a quantifiable difference without any tools? Aldo currently running the stock Bontrager R130mm tires what should I switch to next ? Thank you in advance for replying
There's a ton to look for and it very heavily depends on whether you're building a partially built one or a frame-up build. But in general, you should make sure the following are done: Align rear derailleur hanger (apply grease or anti-seize at the bolts unless instructed otherwise) Crack bottle cage bolts loose, grease and reinstall Grease headset top cap bolt (some actually came dry, which is unacceptable) Grease headset assembly (many actually don't come with enough grease, so don't assume it's fine) Adjust brakes and if needed, bleed them (if you're on hydraulic disc brakes) Adjust derailleurs
#AskGCNTech I see GCN presenters and pro cyclists sit on the top tube all the time, yet mechanics and GCN often tell us it's not okay to clamp the top tube on a work stand (always clamp the seat tube). Surely the weight of a person is much higher than the clamping force to support a bike. So which is it, okay to sit on the top tube or not okay to clamp the top tube, particularly for a carbon frame bike? Bonus question, does descending on the Froome-tuck compromise the frame too?
A clamp focuses more force over a much smaller surface area, while any pressure applied elsewhere on the bike while clamped will create torsion on the clamped portion (oh look at that, it rhymes), which carbon frames are not designed to take due to the directional arrangement of fibers. We still wouldn't recommend sitting on the top tube with your full bodyweight, but it's not as bad as clamping a carbon frame
#AskGCNTech Dear GCN Tech, how much watts are saved in a group ride compared to Rider in the lead? Saves the rider on position one also a bit of drag by the riders following him? What is the maximum distance to the rider in front to save some watts? Maybe you could make a video about that…….? Thanks, Bernd
When you're drafting, you're saving appx 30% over the rider doing the pull. So if they're having to do 200 watts, you're probably doing around 140. But keep in mind that we're talking about riding down the road either into a headwind or with a tailwind. If you've got a crosswind, that all goes out the window. You would need to position yourself so that the rider in front of you is blocking the majority of the wind. That typically involves what's called echeloning. Echeloning is how birds fly, in the shape of a V. So if the wind is coming from the right, you would position yourself so that your front wheel is slightly behind and to the left of the rear wheel in front of you. To your next point, yes the cyclist taking the pull (lead rider) also saves a few watts by having someone on their wheel. It's not a great deal of watts, but any savings is nice. As for the distance you can ride off someone's wheel before falling out of their draft, that's going to depend on speed and the size of the rider in front of you. Typically you want to stay within a meter at the most. If you have confidence in the rider in front of you, the closer the better. You can always test this out for yourself, simply get a friend and ride down the road on his wheel, then slowly start backing off. If you both have power meters, you can use them to give you an answer, or you can just judge for yourself. You'll notice when there's no draft left, believe me.
The best powermeter on a budget in the Sigma BC23.16 that has no sensor but calculates your power based on the accelerometer and your weight measurements. It also helps you keep the weight of the bike low.
#AskGCNTech - How to actually remove a TL tire from a carbon rim that is extremely well adhered and, in this case, contains a tube / NO sealant. Your previous video of prying it off with one's fingers was hilariously unhelpful. Even using soapy water and a vise, the small tire width (as compared to MTB) won't allow complete release at the bead end when moving it back and forth.
If you cant enjoy the beauty and freedom of cycling without digitizing everything then there is something wrong with you.plain and simple.Wheres the lie?
Neither Are you behind the guy in front Then you need more power, you don’t need a $500+ gadget to tell you that You should be able to feel the headroom in the gears, if there’s plenty of headroom, get stronger If there’s no headroom, increase your gear ratio OR, Ride a track bike for your trainer with an absurd gear, Everywhere, Go climb some mountains on 51/16 Once that gets easy, 51/14 and so forth Mo Powa Babeh You don’t need to spend a lot of money to be told that How much power are you putting out, who cares ? Are you winning ? It’s not also about expending the most power all the time, it’s doing it efficiently and where it counts It’s as much a mental game as it is a physical one
I disagree. As a coach I find training with power beneficial, in particular for amateur competitive cyclists who tend to be extremely time-limited in their training time. Power-based training, whether it be intervals or SS or polarised, can be delivered much more effectively using a PM, whether on the road or on a turbo trainer. It allows time-pressed athletes to fit highly focused training around work and family responsibilities.
I don't agree. Since I've gotten my Assioma pedals, I'm able to train much better than all the years I didn't have a power meter. It's easy to go hard when you're having a good day, and burn matches prematurely. Or go too hard at the bottom of a climb, only to run out of steam before the top. With a power meter, I'm able to see what I'm doing so that I can still have something left for that last push up the climb. I've improved my times on the local climbs every month since getting one.
@@shepshape2585 you make a good point, but the one between your ears is free. And unless you're aiming to compete in the Pro Tour or some such events, power meters are but just something else to spend your money on providing some, albeit interesting, but unecessary information for the ordinary person.
@@markcarlton If you just want to ride your bike and you’re not serious about it at all, then no, you don’t need any tech at all. I’m no pro, but I do compete against myself and my friends and having a power meter allows me to train properly. For example, I do base power rides that help me improve my base fitness. I need to know what power I’m riding at in order to get the most out of those rides. Same with interval days. My wife just likes to ride her bike, she doesn’t compete at all. She turns on Strava just to track her mileage but that’s it. It all depends on what your goals are.
@@shepshape2585 true, your goals (& ability) do matter, but I've been road racing over 40 years and I reckon I can train "properly" enough without one. I doubt it would turn me into a Pogacar anyway, lol. Plus, I'd rather spend the money on new wheels or other equipment that actually make the riding more enjoyable and efficient 😉
Let us know your tech queries using #AskGCNTech 👇
hello #AskGCNTech
last year i bought a second hand bike as an affordable entry into the sport. It turns out i really like cycling and i think i am ready for a new step forward. i currently have a cervelo S2 from 2009 with a dura ace 9 speed groupset (also from 2009). would it be best to upgrade the groupset to something more recent but still rimbrakes (the frame is rimbrake only) or upgrade the groupset and frame to a discbrake setup.
kind regards.
#AskGCNTech
I am storing a bike for several months, in a location near the seaside. Is it advisable to give the bike (particularly parts like the gears, brakes, and other metal surfaces) a light covering of oil to protect it from the elements?
Hello #AskGCNTech
I’m looking for a new bike, and im stuck between a new canyon CF SL 8 Disc with an manual ultegra, and a specialized venge PRO Disc with ultegra Di2, this one is secondhand and 3 years old, for which one should I go?
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Hi GCN Tech crew! I am planning to add a set of carbon wheels with road tires to my gravel bike, to switch the wheels whenever I am riding only road. I am looking at a set of ZIPP 303S's, but I wonder if hookless design with max tire pressure of 70 psi be ok for me as a heavier rider over 100 kg. Pls let me know what do you think. Thanks!
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I know Alex loves TRI, and I’ve noticed that all the GCN presenters have swapped out their Whoop straps for Polar (Garmin?) watches, even though Whoop is still listed as a sponsor - are the GCN presenters ready to lose their socks and become triathletes?
For the numb foot question, I had that when starting riding 2 years ago, and had to loosen the shoes. However, the permanent fix was that my cadence was way too low. So I was 'muscelling' down on the pedals as I had done all my life - mashing/grinding away. Watching and learning from all manner of videos I realised I needed to quicken it up with associated gear change too. Now at 90 rpm target cadence it has all been fine. Hope this helps.
That and don't buy cycling shoes from specialized without consulting with a bike fitter/physiotherapist/orthopedics first.. The tilted sole is not suitable for everyone, learned that lessen the hard way.
I did several things to minimize numb foot. 1.stiff insole from Specialized. 2. Got a shoe that was 1/2 size bigger because your feet swells as you ride 3. Increased q factor of pedals widdened stance with washers /spacers. This seems to help eliminate knee pains that I had from time to time
I hadn’t even thought about cadence as being part of my problem, but I do believe my average cadence has increased as my numbness went away. I also changed my shoes, learned not to tighten neatly so tight and got a bike fit.
Yep, I also had this problem, and looser shoes fixed it. If you can, you only need to loosen the shoe at the toe end, and you can still keep some tightness around the top of the foot (towards your ankle)
I just had to buy shoes with the WIDE option. Regular width did not work and neither did up sizing from 42 to 43. So 42 wide it is!
Pedal based power meters have great versatility. Very easy to move bike to bike if you are lucky enough to run 2 or more bicycles.
Looking at the price of some power meters you’d be luckier to own one of them, as opposed to 2 bikes! 🙃
They're so expensive it might be cheaper to order multiple crank arm meters
@@stephenwatkins7592 just get assioma Duos. Nothing drives you more crazy than multiple power meters as none of them will match, just the way it is. Also you can borrow/hire a bike and always have power data.
Bonus, you aren't left wondering what your REAL power numbers are with dual sided.
@rob-c. An SRM used to cost $5k and it was wired😅
@titaniumben9923 its very easy to slope 2 power meters to match. You need to smart trainer or power pedals to do it but you can borrow them if you don't have them
I've got a 4iii single sided crank meter. I'm not a pro so I don't care that it's not accurate to .1%. Paid about £230 for it I think. Great addition.
same here, love mine!
False economy, you will regret it sooner or later when you are on a different bike. Trust me, I bought a stages left crank. Ended up spending again. I would have saved money going straight to pedals. Best thing is you can travel, and always have the same power meter - which is actually far more critical than many realise. Saves you wondering why your pacing with your hired bike up your dream climb isn't right. Let's you just enjoy the ride.
@@titaniumben9923 If i was on holiday riding i wouldn't givea hoot about power numbers. And you can move a crank, you know.
Some Sram AXS rear derailleurs are 1X specific (XPLR / Eagle). They might work, but I'd still follow the Sram's compatibility matrix.
I've been using something called Power Pod. It uses air pressure and some very clever maths. Been working a few years now. Very easy to swap between bikes.
I've all my tubeless tires patched, first I started using self-sticking patches but they weren't the best option for the tubeless tire, later on I went for normal patches and I even had to put a normal patch upon a self-sticking patch. What I prefer to do is to put the patch without stretching the tire or making it inside-out, thus, the tyre and the patch will get the same shape when inflated and there will be no risks of re-opening the puncture.
Favero Assioma. Bombproof reliability and dead easy to swap between bikes. No brained for me.
Except you can’t easily swap out pedal types on the Assiomas. Garmin Rally are superior for the interchangeability, allowing you to easily swap between Look-style, Shimano road, or Shimano SPD
FWIW regarding the 1X versus 2X for gravel and MTB, for years I thought the 1X was crazy until I tried it. Now I will not go back. If you ride terrain with radically changing gradients and conditions, 1X is absolutely the way to go. If all you have ever ridden in 2X, I suggest renting or borrowing a friend's 1X bike to see just how much more efficient it is with regard to not f#%@ing around with the shifting.
100% sympathise with the viewer & numb feet / toes. Happens to me as well & my short term solution is undoing the shoes for a while & riding like that for a bit but when I tighten them up again the numbness returns. Only happens on longer rides of about 40-50 miles plus but my feet will always be numb for the rest of the ride after that point. Tried different shoes. cleat position, insoles, pedal system & saddle height all with the same result - still numb feet. Only thing I haven’t tried is a bike fit but as I have pretty much the same position on 3 bikes I’m not sure that is the answer. TBH though I don’t know what is.
Assioma Duo… discussion over
As to the power meter question, the Favero Assioma pedals are not only the least expensive, but most accurate power meter option on the market. I opted for the single side, because I really don't care about which leg might be doing a few percent more work than the other. The pedals are really nice, allow you to keep wearing your Look Keo cleats if that's what you're wearing currently, and they also auto calibrate, so you don't need to spend any time calibrating them before every ride. I also like this option because I can take them off my road bike and put them on my gravel bike and off I go. Just remember that if you do switch bikes, you'll need to calibrate them before the first ride. Rainmaker did a pretty comprehensive video on different power meters, and he agreed with my assessment.
Yep 100% - never buy a power meter that is locked to one bike. Pedals are the way to go for economic reasons, you will always be riding with power data regardless of if you're even on your own bike/s.
The other reason is data is only as good as the data you put in. Bad data in = bad data out. If you always use the same power meter you remove one of the biggest reasons/questions about power targets or fitness signatures.
It really can be a lot more than a few percent. But more importantly, many peoples imbalance changes with their effort. I'm a left bias by about 3% when I'm in z2. But when I'm in z4/5, I'm right biased by about 5% it really would make for very bad data if I had a one sidesld pedal. I've seen even worse numbers from others when doing bike fits for them.
Little known fact: Jim Felt was a mechanic for Honda's powerhouse motocross team in the 80's. Most of the riders did off-motorcycle training on a bicycle. Jim started building bicycles and the rest became history.
I wonder if his word was as dodgy as the QC for Felt? I've had send so many aero frames back out of the box due to crooked aerobars/forks and aero seatposts that wouldn't let you have a straight saddle😂
Had the same problem and moving the position mostly fixed it, but they also needed to break in and stretch a little
I sent my right crank to 4iiii and they installed a powermeter. You can also do it with the left crank or both.
Re patching a small puncture in tubeless tire. Normally latex based sealants will stop the leak and form a permanent seal, nothing else is needed. I've found dozens of sealed punctures when replacing worn tires and only once needed a separate patch - that was a longish sidewall cut, not a puncture.
It never seizes to amaze me the things GCN recommends when it's your money that's being spent. You want to patch a tubeless tire just buy a tube of RTV Black Gasket maker and spread it around the inside of the tire in the area where the puncture is. I promise you won't ever have to worry about the patch coming loose. And it would only cost a couple of bucks for a tube that will last for many punctures. Coming from the mountainbike side of cycling I know this works because I've done it hundreds of times.
Regarding patching tubeless tires. I use common inner tube patches on the inside of a tubeless tire. I do my best to clean the area on the tire with alcohol and of course make sure it is clean of dried sealant. I do this for punctures that won't seal or stay sealed from sealant alone. Also, I've done this when for whatever reason a tire plug hasn't held.
With respect to chain checkers they worked well for me on shimano-setups but with campa veloce I couldn't find any relevant stretch or typical wear on any teeth for that matter after about 10.000 km. By then it was high time to change the chain as well as the cassete to get back the shifting-performance the bike used to have.
Doddy from GMBN Tech did a video about 3 years ago. Were he showed how to repair a tubeless tyre with a split in the tyre.
Happy days!
Spider-based power meters don't get enough attention I think. If you want true power, not just left x 2, a spider will do it. Pro is that there are spider-based meters (p2m ng eco) at around the same price as a left only. the con is that you'll never have independent L/R in the future. They can provide estimates through software, but it's not measured. Looking at FTP, power curves, and doing intervals does not require left/right values. I've switched to pedals to get left/right to track a dodgy knee (new ACL and LCL) and I can see if left drops that my knee is fatiguing long before I feel it, and then know to back up to below the threshold for a few rides. If I didn't require that, I would've stuck with the $300 FSA Powerbox Allow that I had, which was a crankset with a rebadged ng-eco.
Hi GCN Tech Team, what would happen if I ride a bike with more wight than it is offically declared good to go? I am taller than Conor and have 100kg, but many bikes have the same wight limit for their XXS bikes as for their XXL ones, often 110kg or 120kg. Add the wight of the bike to mine and it gets close already, not even talking about bike packing. Would you assume a gravel bike ridden on road can take on more wight than what it is declared for, as it is smoother riding? #AskGCNTech
3.55 Alex, I thought your favourite saying was ‘fancy pants’? A nice little montage from the editing team would be great 😂
Nice video and presentation.
Following page 2:30 numbness toe? I tried everything I can think of, failed. Such as - closed all vent holes, toe insulation, cleats types, cleats positioning forward/aft/L/R/angle, tight/loose lacing, thin/thick socks and finally shoe size “bingo” which was the root cause. Changed from #40 to 41? Improved some, change again to 42? No more discomfort.
A quick search told me that (1) all bike shoe manufacturers share a common sole model of champion bikers, tall and slender but we are short and fat. Sole models are narrow or too narrow, in the metatarsal for the averaged bike enthusiasts. (2) manufacturers love to use cheap and harder plastic that doesn’t entertain the metatarsal to avoid nerve pinching. (3) they forgo shoe lace, but the mass market are not professional bikers, only dresses like one. (4) Test fit the way we did on a walking shoe wouldn’t tell the problem until we stress our foot on the paddle in a bike run, by the time we found out $100 or so wasted. (5) bike shoe with softer sheath and a normal to a wider metatarsal fit can cost more than the price of a full group set.
Solution for cheap and hard sheath cleats shoe? (1) shift cleats to far back position. (2) Up the shoes size by one to two notches. (3) Soft shim our heel to keep the metatarsal in the widest section in sole.
I use two size up to a cleats and rigid shoe to make up space for warm socks in cold wet weather.
I bought a Rock Shox Reverb AXS XPLR dropper port and it shows quite some torsional play which is clearly noticeable when riding. How much torsional play would you see as normal?
What's the best power meter if I want to use it easily on multiple bikes? Is there something that can go inside the soles of shoes?
Had two pedal power meters - Garmin and Assioma. Both misread. Massive issue. Crank seems far more reliable and consistently accurate
Do y’all have an pedal based power meter recommendations. Are the wahoo ones good
#AskGCNTech I have started going back to Group Rides and trying to be better. Is it better joining a group at your current pace level and be in front pulling or join a faster pace level and sit at the back trying hard not to get dropped. Thanks!
Hello, I'm one year post-op from a dual organ transplant and started cycling to get into shape and get some outside time. My question is I'm having trouble standing and riding my bike up climbs and when I stay sitting it feels like I am going to fell backwards. What are somethings I can do or works to help with that. I'm using clipless shoes and paddles. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Two questions, answer one or both:
1. I have a road bike on which I have put clip-on aero bars. It works OK but I'm wondering whether it is feasible to put an actual TT-cockpit on the bike instead. Is it unheard of or can I just buy a new handlebar, redo my cable routing, and have Bob as my uncle?
2. What rectifies the extreme price differences between similarly speced Triathlon Bikes? I'm thinking Cervelo P Series and Canyon Speedmax vs Specialized Shiv and Scott Plasma? What makes the latter cost three times as much?
1) Not feasible.
2) Canyon is a consumer-direct brand, meaning no LBS carries their bikes as they only sell to customers directly from Koblenz, Germany. This allows them to not go through distributors and LBS' that contribute to a bike's markup, therefore making their bikes less expensive despite the sweet spec.
I bought a single sidded stages power meter on sale for $250 in january. A bargin.
#AskGCNTech What screws on my bike do I use thread lock paste and what screws do I use anti seize paste for?
Anti-seize can be used on pretty much anything, especially on bolts most prone to galvanic corrosion and those made out of titanium. I personally use it on stem bolts, bottle cage bolts, pedal threads and multiple M3 & M4 bolts (these things are small). As for things like the cassette lockring, grease will do.
Medium-strength threadlocker is usually pre-applied on the bolts of 6-bolt rotors, make sure not to go crazy on the torque spec, otherwise you might find yourself stripping the Torx T25 interface when it comes time to remove them. Ask me how I know.
Can I fit any sram power-meter crank on an e-bike like Haibike HardNine 9 with Bosch Gen 4 motor 625wh (2021 model) or any e-bike?
#AskGCNTech An upgradeability question : I have an MTB which I got used (which has a carbon frame -Poison Graphan MTB , 26" mavic wheels and some old parts, from the ex owner). I got this thinking I'll manually convert it to an ebike (yes, I have a detailed plan). However, someone threw a spanner in the works and I can actually lease an electric bike for pretty sum of 100 Eur a month. Does it make sense to still convert the old MTB or to sell it and get an EMTB? I will be using to commute all round the year and hit the trails with my colleagues. I live in Finland where snow and sleet are facts of life during the winter months.
are there any flat powermeter pedals?
Hi GCN Tech.
I've recently bought a 'pre-enjoyed' bike, which came with aluminium rims. I'm putting my carbon wheels on it, so I have replaced the brake pads. It turns out that the pads that were on the bike were already carbon-specific pads (and better than the ones I'm putting on), but they have been used on aluminium rims.
Jon said on previous GCN Tech video that you shouldn't keep the pads on when swapping between aluminium and carbon wheels. I won't be doing that), but what if anything, can you do to clean up carbon-specific brake pads if they have been used on aluminium rims? There is plenty of wear left on them.
Cheers.
#AskGCNTech
Rough sandpaper around a wood block, or careful use of a file, maintaining the angle/flat face.
You can remove the outermost layer of the brake pads, exposing a brand new surface free of aluminium bits.
How good is zwift and Strava at estimating power
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
The problem with pedal-based systems is that there are very few for mtb clip-in pedals. Last time I checked there were only the Garmins and those are not cheap.
Yup the rally single side is 600. Favero duos go for 500ish now
If you don’t mind invalidating they warranty modifying Assiomas for MTB pedals is trivial.
@@nstrug good point, hadn’t considered that. I have a 4iiii GRX crank now though that cost like half of the Garmin pedal, and I’m pretty happy with that investment now.
>having power-meters
but really, the pedals are the best ones to get for versatility.
Also on 1x to 2x conversion, if it is not a direct mount, you need to make sure that the tube is round and will fit a clamp-on and that there is clearance between the chain and tire, some bikes like the Dragon Bahamut have this sort of inter-compatibility in mind, other bikes like a Connondale SuperSix Evo CX are pretty much impossible to convert.
#GCNTech. Hi Alex. Just got a long awaited Orbea Gain. Great bike. Great to be assisted ;-). But ! The space between the interior of the left crank and the frame is too narrow to fit a cadence sensor (wahoo). Would you have a tip to solve this situation?
Wahoo's cadence sensor can be attached to your shoe on a Velcro strap. If yours doesn't have one, you gotta get creative with mounting methods, as long as it's secure on your shoe.
#AskGCNTech I'm looking to make a significant bike upgrade in the next year or two, leaning toward a titanium frame which are often available with custom geometry. I've never had a bike fit, would it be worth getting a bike fit before ordering a frame so it's exactly right, or should I get one that's reasonably close based on height and inseam and move the contact points around afterwards? Looking for an all-road/light gravel capable bike, not for racing or multi-day endurance stuff, but I do enjoy both speed and comfort.
I highly suggest getting a bike fit as a reputable bike fitter will be able to determine your most ideal geometry that's likely not found on any production frameset.
Recently upgraded from 105 to the newest 12-speed Ultegra Di2. Found in the settings in Shimano’s E-Tube app that I can change the speed of shifting. Wondering what are the pros and cons of choosing a “fast” or “very fast” setting for the speed of shifting rather than the “normal” setting.
#AskGCNTech
It's literally written in the settings when you are setting it, faster may lead to less smooth changes and that's about it. Basically it's not worth worrying about, set and forget.
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie, Alex, Mannon and Mark!
Quick drivetrain and carbon related question:
-Is it ok to use Shimano´s connecting pins on unused spare links from previous chain installations and therefore get a new chain? And after two chain replacements even if the cassette looks great and well maintained is it mandatory to change it too?
-During 2.5years (~12000Km/Year) my aerobar (SL-70 Aero) always creaked a bit, specially during hot days, climbs and sprints. How can we know when to change a carbon part for that matter even with the slightly below recommended torque values and very regular maintenance?
Thank you and keep up the great work!
1) It's not very advisable. As long as the cassette's teeth are still OK, it can stay until they turn sharp.
2) Check the handlebar for structural damage and was it even installed with carbon paste in the first place?
Regarding the 3400 chain wear question: If you have a RULER you can check it yourself.
#AskGCN, hey Alex (or less probably Ollie or Manon). If I want to travel with my back and put it into hard case, how should I approach to disassembling fully integrated cockpit? Remove bar from stem, stem from steering tube or both?
Thanks!
It heavily depends on the cockpit and the bike as some of them have a steer stop, therefore not allowing the fork to rotate 90°.
BikeBox Alan has the Triathlon Aero EasyFit for such bikes. Primarily designed for triathlon & TT bikes, which usually feature complex cockpits that are inconvenient to dismantle, it's also suitable for all road bikes (including those with integrated internal routing) as you only need to remove your wheels and pedals.
#AskGCNTech I was wondering if it would be more power efficient to ride behind someone with an aero bike or someone with a non-aero bike? Since maybe the aero bike will guide the air better or it will catch less wind so I’ll catch more.
You are thinking about this totally wrong. Forget the bike, and find the biggest rider in the group to follow.
How often do you recommend replacing your helmet? Do they go "bad" or do you only need to replace after a crash? #AskGCNTech
The rule of thumb is to replace it every 5 years or after an impact, whichever comes first.
#askgcntech Hi people. Love the show. May I ask a hydraulic brake question for all those post-mount frame gravel bike ninjas out there?
I have an old 2016 Cannondale CAADX frame with mechanical post-mount brake callipers (which are really awful). I'm looking to upgrade the whole groupset to modern GRX 600, but can't fit GRX callipers as they're all flat-mount only. Would Shimano post-mount mountain bike brake callipers work with GRX hydraulic shifters, and if so which one would be most suitable and are there any pitfalls in terms of hydraulic hose fittings between gravel and mountain bike standards?
Best wishes,
Harley
Moving my cleats as far back as they will go made my foot numbness go away.
#AskGCNTech I upgraded to clip less pedals a couple of years ago and used the easiest release tension whilst I was getting used to them. Now that I’ve got the hang of them, is there any point to making the release tension tighter?
Yes, especially when you sprint a lot, unclipping unintentionally is the last thing you want to do when you put the power down.
As Yong says, unclipped accidentally is the reason you'd tighten the tension.
Hi GCN Tech Team, I use a well known GPS cycling computer with a speed sensor and always wondered if I should have the circumference calculated automatically or manually. If manually should I use the value in the cycling computer manual, the circumference written on the manufacturers box / website (if stated) or calculate by rolling one revolution on the ground? Could you make a video so we can see the differences? #AskGCNTech
Why don't you use the gps speed instead of the speed sensor?
Use a flexible tape measure.
Hello GCN!
I am going to ride up the alpe d'Huez or mont ventoux this summer. I only have deep (65mm) carbon wheels with rim brakes so I am worried for the wind and heat build up from the braking during the descent. Should I try and find replacement wheels or will it be fine if I am a bit cautious? #AskGCNTech
You should have an aluminium wheelset anyway, in case something happens to your carbon one.
What I see people do frequently is they sell their AL hoops the moment they get their carbon ones, which is actually a mistake in my eyes. They practically got rid of their backup that could prevent their bike from wrenchwork-induced downtime.
#AskGCNTech Hi! I found my SPD-SL bolts doesn't reach the socket on my cycling shoes. Is it even possible? Is it safe to use M5x13mm bolts instead of those came with the cleat?
The only time I've encountered this is on one pair of cheap China-made shoes, where the plate with the female threads isn't at its closest position to the outsole. I had to use a bolt to pull the plate close.
It's OK to use longer bolts (as long as you need), but get cleat bolts instead of generic M5 bolts as cleat bolts have a much larger head that's meant for sitting on the cleat bolt washers.
I prefer left side power crank(I got Stages). It doesnt wear like pedals and I can easily install it to my new bike beacause I buy only Shimano groupset.
I was going to go with the Stages, but fortunately the article I read said something about them not fitting some bikes depending on the distance between your left crank and the frame, and they gave a measurement. They would not have fit on my bike, not enough clearance. So I went with the Assioma pedals. I hear the Stages are really good though.
Agree - for the same reason. Pedal wear is a concern of mine. I have two Stages - one for e few years on the training bike and one on the new bike. They work a charm.
@@shepshape2585Stages says clearance must be AAA battery size (Gen 3) but it is bit too pessimistic. I was also worried about crank and frame (Canyon Inflite) clearance but I managed to find person who gave me his crank to try. It fitted perfectly and there is 3-4mm clearance between sensor body and frame.
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN, I personally dont have the biggest budget and im deciding between a smart trainer or a powermeter, whats the best option if i want to take my riding to the next level? Im deciding between the Tacx Flux S and the Faverro Assioma Uno's.
I have the Assioma Unos and I love them. That being said, I live in Florida and can ride pretty much every day outside. If you live somewhere that you can ride outside all the time, year round, go with the pedals. You can always use your Garmin (if you have a Garmin) to create workouts that you can do outdoors. However, if you live somewhere that prohibits riding outside year round for whatever reason, get yourself an inexpensive trainer. I have the Wahoo Kickr Snap, which is the wheel on budget option (I think I paid $500 new). I've had it for about three years now and it's still running as smoothly as day one. Trainers are a great way to beat the heat, or the rain, or the snow, or if you're short on time. Because you never stop pedaling on a trainer, they say an hour on a trainer is about the same as 1.5 hours outdoors. Also, if you sign up for Zwift or Trainerroad, they have some really good training programs. So I guess you just need to think about which option is more likely to motivate you to ride your bike more, because that's what will take your riding to the next level. Good luck!
@@shepshape2585 Thank you, this is really helpfull. Im leaning towards the powermeter and buying a second hand wheel on trainer, so I can so Zwift with powermeter and motivate myself in the winter.
Mr Alex. I want to put a Sram flat edge chain on my shimano groupset.
I am not sure if they are compatible but I really like the look of the sram straight edge chains ! Help !
No, SRAM FlatTop chains have slightly larger rollers than other chains, so they're only for SRAM Road 12-speed groupsets.
@@yonglingng5640 that sucks :(
#AskGCNTech
Hello. My question is less tech related and more tech adjacent. I am having a titanium bike made for me. Do I tip the bike shop? Do I not? Would a case of beer be okay as well?
At least appreciation is shown if you do because without the guys who built your titanium bike, you wouldn't be enjoying your sweet ride.
It doesn't have to be beer, just ask what they usually prefer. It can be some other beverage or even a meal.
Hi Alex et al. I have a Canyon Grail which I love but really want to get DI2. What’s the best way to upgrade? Does Shimano have GRX DI2 (in the newer 8150 series)? #AskGCNTech
The GRX lineup does have a Di2 counterpart.
@@yonglingng5640 isn’t that the older 11sp? I’m referring to the newer version.
@@chones_ Oh, if it's 12-speed, then no.
#askGCNtech Why this show is so short?
When it is needed, how do you “hoot” at a car while cycling?
You don’t. You use a bell. Or failing that your voice.
@@nstrug Or hell, the 140-db HornIt horn (this thing's loud, no joke).
#AskGCNTech What is harder a fly wheel or wheel on turbo trainer and are both accurate
My favourite power meter is my homemade one. Since I changed to a single cell lipo and bypassed the Arduinos regulator its consistently within 2 - 3W of the Garmin Vector pedals for ride averages.
#askgcntech #askgcn hi team. I've just thrown a fair amount at a new fancy pants frameset. Do you recommend frame protection for road bikes or is that just for the MTB guys and gals? Thanks.
Frame protection is a good thing to have and it's not just for MTBs, road bikes can benefit from having it.
If you buy a pedal based power meter, make sure to have some spare batteries. In case of Garmin, they are of a bit uncommon type and you want to take spares with you if you go on a bike holiday.
Always good to have spare batteries Christian!
Wish they'd just make all power meters with a rechargeable battery and USB charging. Although I guess with the low power use of these devices these days it would only get recharged 10 - 20 times in the life of the unit.
@@Ed.R Not a fan of that. Typical lithium polymer batteries loos quite a bit of charge just over time without use so you have to charge constantly. A Stages crank power meter runs almost a year with a CR2032 coin cell without thinking about anything. I prefer that over charging it every week.
@@chrisridesbicycles That's not been my experience of rechargeable lithium, in fact they are known for having very low self discharge rates. That's assuming the cell isn't damaged otherwise they can have very high self discharge rates to the point of heating up.
Even my homemade nothing optimised for low power power meter has done the past 21 days of daily hour long rides on a single charge of its little lipo cell.
@@chrisridesbicycles My Assioma pedals are good for about 50-60 hours between charges, and when I do need to charge them, the charger is magnetic so you just "click" it onto the inside of the pedal where the meter is, and it charges in a few hours. I ride about 10-11 hours per week, so I just charge it the first of every month and I'm good to go. I've had them for three years and they still hold every bit of their charge.
Hello #AskGCNTech
I’m looking for a new bike, and im stuck between a new canyon CF SL 8 Disc with an manual ultegra, and a specialized venge PRO Disc with ultegra Di2, this one is secondhand and 3 years old, for which one should I go?
First of all, what Canyon is this? Aeroad? Ultimate? Endurace? The CF SL name is not a model name.
If the Canyon is an Aeroad, I recommend the Venge. Though it's rattly (a typical trait of aero bikes), it's light and fast. I've ridden one a few times and I like it. One of the only disadvantages is that it can't run mechanical groupsets.
Titanium anode, aluminium katod, add water and you get battery, so you're cranks gone degrade
#askgcntech. Hi guys and gals, problem with Tiagra 4700. Changed gear cable now gear won't change from 7th to 8th gear on big ring. Reset indexing and tried a different cassette (12-25 (Decathlon) & 12-28(Shimano)), no change. Help! Phil P
First things first, is the rear derailleur hanger aligned? Because chances are, it's not.
About the titanium pedal axels reacting with the alloy crank threads: galvanic corrosion could actually be a problem here, if the two metals come in contact through an electrolyte, such as (salty) water, as I understand it. An anti-seize compound, e.g. a non-metallic one, might be an idea in this case. But it's perfectly possible that standard grease will do the job just as well, mainly keeping any water out.
I don't know enough about this to say for sure, but I also don't like the dismissive attitude of the GCN guy in this video - just because he's never heard of it doesn't mean it isn't an actual issue.
Hello team, I got a trek Domane Al2 Disc recently and I've been riding it I don't want to spend any money on fancy components just yet can you suggest me how can I improve my aero and measure a quantifiable difference without any tools? Aldo currently running the stock Bontrager R130mm tires what should I switch to next ? Thank you in advance for replying
#AskGCNTech
P.S love from India
What should i look after/pay attention to if i were to assemble a bike #AskGCNTech
There's a ton to look for and it very heavily depends on whether you're building a partially built one or a frame-up build.
But in general, you should make sure the following are done:
Align rear derailleur hanger (apply grease or anti-seize at the bolts unless instructed otherwise)
Crack bottle cage bolts loose, grease and reinstall
Grease headset top cap bolt (some actually came dry, which is unacceptable)
Grease headset assembly (many actually don't come with enough grease, so don't assume it's fine)
Adjust brakes and if needed, bleed them (if you're on hydraulic disc brakes)
Adjust derailleurs
@@yonglingng5640 thx man really helped alot appreciate it
#AskGCNTech I see GCN presenters and pro cyclists sit on the top tube all the time, yet mechanics and GCN often tell us it's not okay to clamp the top tube on a work stand (always clamp the seat tube). Surely the weight of a person is much higher than the clamping force to support a bike. So which is it, okay to sit on the top tube or not okay to clamp the top tube, particularly for a carbon frame bike? Bonus question, does descending on the Froome-tuck compromise the frame too?
A clamp focuses more force over a much smaller surface area, while any pressure applied elsewhere on the bike while clamped will create torsion on the clamped portion (oh look at that, it rhymes), which carbon frames are not designed to take due to the directional arrangement of fibers.
We still wouldn't recommend sitting on the top tube with your full bodyweight, but it's not as bad as clamping a carbon frame
@@gcntech Thanks for the reply!
Stages all day
#AskGCNTech Dear GCN Tech, how much watts are saved in a group ride compared to Rider in the lead? Saves the rider on position one also a bit of drag by the riders following him? What is the maximum distance to the rider in front to save some watts? Maybe you could make a video about that…….? Thanks, Bernd
When you're drafting, you're saving appx 30% over the rider doing the pull. So if they're having to do 200 watts, you're probably doing around 140. But keep in mind that we're talking about riding down the road either into a headwind or with a tailwind. If you've got a crosswind, that all goes out the window. You would need to position yourself so that the rider in front of you is blocking the majority of the wind. That typically involves what's called echeloning. Echeloning is how birds fly, in the shape of a V. So if the wind is coming from the right, you would position yourself so that your front wheel is slightly behind and to the left of the rear wheel in front of you. To your next point, yes the cyclist taking the pull (lead rider) also saves a few watts by having someone on their wheel. It's not a great deal of watts, but any savings is nice. As for the distance you can ride off someone's wheel before falling out of their draft, that's going to depend on speed and the size of the rider in front of you. Typically you want to stay within a meter at the most. If you have confidence in the rider in front of you, the closer the better. You can always test this out for yourself, simply get a friend and ride down the road on his wheel, then slowly start backing off. If you both have power meters, you can use them to give you an answer, or you can just judge for yourself. You'll notice when there's no draft left, believe me.
@@shepshape2585 Thanks a lot! 👌
@@sarahundbernd1879 you’re very welcome
Favero’s
so... whats the best power meter option on a low budget? ...
Poor sod using strava's estimates checking in.
Nooo…Ti is notorious for galling! Anti Seize mixed with grease please!
Buy power meter ... or .... just enjoy riding ?
Neither - just ride 👍
The best powermeter on a budget in the Sigma BC23.16 that has no sensor but calculates your power based on the accelerometer and your weight measurements. It also helps you keep the weight of the bike low.
#AskGCNTech - How to actually remove a TL tire from a carbon rim that is extremely well adhered and, in this case, contains a tube / NO sealant. Your previous video of prying it off with one's fingers was hilariously unhelpful. Even using soapy water and a vise, the small tire width (as compared to MTB) won't allow complete release at the bead end when moving it back and forth.
Xbox ~
Why should I even buy a power meter?
If you cant enjoy the beauty and freedom of cycling without digitizing everything then there is something wrong with you.plain and simple.Wheres the lie?
Neither
Are you behind the guy in front
Then you need more power, you don’t need a $500+ gadget to tell you that
You should be able to feel the headroom in the gears, if there’s plenty of headroom, get stronger
If there’s no headroom, increase your gear ratio
OR,
Ride a track bike for your trainer with an absurd gear, Everywhere,
Go climb some mountains on 51/16
Once that gets easy, 51/14 and so forth
Mo Powa Babeh
You don’t need to spend a lot of money to be told that
How much power are you putting out, who cares ? Are you winning ?
It’s not also about expending the most power all the time, it’s doing it efficiently and where it counts
It’s as much a mental game as it is a physical one
I disagree. As a coach I find training with power beneficial, in particular for amateur competitive cyclists who tend to be extremely time-limited in their training time. Power-based training, whether it be intervals or SS or polarised, can be delivered much more effectively using a PM, whether on the road or on a turbo trainer. It allows time-pressed athletes to fit highly focused training around work and family responsibilities.
The actual best powermeter is the one between your ears, but that one doesn't support an industry 😂
I don't agree. Since I've gotten my Assioma pedals, I'm able to train much better than all the years I didn't have a power meter. It's easy to go hard when you're having a good day, and burn matches prematurely. Or go too hard at the bottom of a climb, only to run out of steam before the top. With a power meter, I'm able to see what I'm doing so that I can still have something left for that last push up the climb. I've improved my times on the local climbs every month since getting one.
@@shepshape2585 you make a good point, but the one between your ears is free. And unless you're aiming to compete in the Pro Tour or some such events, power meters are but just something else to spend your money on providing some, albeit interesting, but unecessary information for the ordinary person.
@@markcarlton If you just want to ride your bike and you’re not serious about it at all, then no, you don’t need any tech at all. I’m no pro, but I do compete against myself and my friends and having a power meter allows me to train properly. For example, I do base power rides that help me improve my base fitness. I need to know what power I’m riding at in order to get the most out of those rides. Same with interval days. My wife just likes to ride her bike, she doesn’t compete at all. She turns on Strava just to track her mileage but that’s it. It all depends on what your goals are.
@@shepshape2585 true, your goals (& ability) do matter, but I've been road racing over 40 years and I reckon I can train "properly" enough without one. I doubt it would turn me into a Pogacar anyway, lol. Plus, I'd rather spend the money on new wheels or other equipment that actually make the riding more enjoyable and efficient 😉