A good trick I learned is to use a center drill for engraving...it makes a great groove, you can run it pretty fast and its hard to break. Just get one that the tip is about .04" and engrave anywhere from .005" to .012" at .002" passes and 10 ipm at the highest rpm you can. I use 6000rpm. I also use 30 degree and 45 degree V bits for smaller things, but they are easier to break.
Great Job!! Best of luck working on your feeds and speeds. I started really breaking bits on my Taig ones I got down to 1/16" bits, but after alot of trial and error I have gotten down to 1mm endmills that I can cut pretty well with. Keep the videos coming!
That is impressive! I broke an 1/8" 4flute carbide last night (GRRRRRRRRR!!!!) and still haven't sorted out what happened. I have some 1/16" end mills but I've yet to try one. I hope to be able to get into the really tiny stuff eventually, for engraving. Thanks for watching!
Thank! I actually exchanged emails with Hoss a few years ago that I completely forgot about. Once I decide for sure about getting the G0704, I will definitely get the DVD. Would love to build one of Hoss's auto tool changers, those look nice.
That's actually how I got the radius off of the bottom. I flipped the part over and used my face mill to take off enough of the thickness so that radius was machined away. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I did upgrade to ballscrews, and I have a couple of videos where I discuss where I got them. I used Hoss' kit, which comes as a DVD and was completely worth it for me as this was my first CNC venture.
It mostly depends on the size of the end mill since this machine doesn't have much power. With a .25" square 2-flute HSS end mill the Gwizard tells me I can go .060 deep, 4IPM, at 2100RPM. I might try it at .030 first to see if there is much load on the motor, and if not then I would step it down. I'm still super new and paranoid of breaking cutters so I start off very conservative while testing. I keep notes so I can reuse a speed/feed that I really like.
YUP! For some reason I'm constantly afraid there is going to be a random change in Z and I'm going to crash into my vise. I watch carefully for the tool holder and end mill pulling out :)
Nice! I'm thinking about getting the G0704 and converting it. I have a complete set of electronics & motors from an old CNC router build I can use. Did you upgrade to ball screws or are you running stock screws on your machine? Did you do the conversion from scratch or did you find a kit? Thanks.
So what program are you using for design and which program for G-code creation? Sorry for all the questions, but I look to be following in your footsteps this summer with the G0704 with CNC.
I'm still using LinuxCNC, but I have installed the trial version of Mach3 and am going to try and get it talking to the mill this weekend. Mach3 looks like a spaceship console compared to LinuxCNC, but should have much much more capability. I have enjoyed LCNC though.
Thanks Russ. I am making motor mounts this weekend. What software did you use to create this end piece. I am getting stoked up to get my mill running. Getting closer! Thank You. Bill from Seattle
Hey Bill. I went with Oldham couplings from McMaster. You just need to know your motor shaft diameter and the screw diameter where you'll be installing the coupling. You can then buy both pieces and the center piece (three pieces for each motor you hook up) for your application. I believe my exact part numbers are detailed on my spreadsheet, which you can get to (in my Dropbox) by clicking the link in the video description.
Very cool to see this as your first vid. I also, separately, noticed the post you made when you had the motor failure-- And as well that you otherwise went on to start creating much more advanced parts. I am thinking of getting my 'feet wet' with CNC machining via the 0704... And wondered if knowing what you know, you'd still recommend it ? That is, specifically, for general prototyping or perhaps very small scale production (I wonder how many milling hours, roughly, you had when the stock motor burnt out ?).
+Anthony Balducci Thanks! I do like the mill, but I'm starting to feel like I need something bigger. I don't think you can go wrong with this machine, but if you have the space and a little extra cash I would seriously look at the Bolton ZX45 or that Precision Matthews machine (I forgot the model, look for the one about the same price). Both machines are a bit larger than the G with a lot more mass. The new G0704 motors have a breaker on them, so burning up isn't really a problem anymore. I'm sure I had a few hundred hours one mine before it died.
Is $2700 a good deal for one that's already been converted? The list of upgrades/conversion is below. I'd be using it for knife making. Grizzly G0704 - Drill/Mill with Stand (www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704) FlashCut RT-3M-080-3-G0704 - Mini Mill Retrofit Kit - Pro Series Microstepper for G0704 www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Mill-Retrofit-Kit-Pro-Series-Microstepper-for-G0704/T25438?Page Flood Coolant Unit - littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3520&category=
It's certainly less than what you would spend if you did the conversion yourself. If the conversion was done well and the machine doesn't have any problems, then it sounds like a good deal to me.
russtuff Yeah, true. The conversion doesn't look that complicated. I'm still looking around and considering my options/needs.. A lot of used Bridgeports in my area. But they're older and not sure if they'll be harder to convert. That's if they can be converted at all.
I gotta say, if you have the means and room for a knee mill I'd seriously consider it. The travel, mass, etc, would be very useful. It was never an option for me due to space, and they just don't show up around here often. Rarely actually.
hi russ now i understand that the 0 machine is when the axis return to home or to the limit switch on the left corner and to get the zero workplace we have move the xy z to the plate it self and make the zero axis form there corner and it done and its ready for the g cood to run ???thats i do or i did understand >>is that Right russ if this step are Right is there any way to make it or to get the workplace Coordinates faster i saw this tube ua-cam.com/video/bhZdbgM6S70/v-deo.html i dont know how much this method are useful edge finding thanks russ
You are correct. Machine coordinates 0,0,0 is where your limit switches are. Work coordinates 0,0,0 is the corner of you part. This guys method is faster than mine. I touch off with a piece of paper.
A good trick I learned is to use a center drill for engraving...it makes a great groove, you can run it pretty fast and its hard to break. Just get one that the tip is about .04" and engrave anywhere from .005" to .012" at .002" passes and 10 ipm at the highest rpm you can. I use 6000rpm. I also use 30 degree and 45 degree V bits for smaller things, but they are easier to break.
Great Job!! Best of luck working on your feeds and speeds. I started really breaking bits on my Taig ones I got down to 1/16" bits, but after alot of trial and error I have gotten down to 1mm endmills that I can cut pretty well with. Keep the videos coming!
Beautiful! Good work!!
Roy
Congratulations! Nice to see it finally up and running
Awesome job! Welcome to the joys of CNC milling!
That is impressive! I broke an 1/8" 4flute carbide last night (GRRRRRRRRR!!!!) and still haven't sorted out what happened. I have some 1/16" end mills but I've yet to try one. I hope to be able to get into the really tiny stuff eventually, for engraving.
Thanks for watching!
Thank! I actually exchanged emails with Hoss a few years ago that I completely forgot about. Once I decide for sure about getting the G0704, I will definitely get the DVD. Would love to build one of Hoss's auto tool changers, those look nice.
So cool! Great Job!
Congrats!
That's actually how I got the radius off of the bottom. I flipped the part over and used my face mill to take off enough of the thickness so that radius was machined away. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I did upgrade to ballscrews, and I have a couple of videos where I discuss where I got them. I used Hoss' kit, which comes as a DVD and was completely worth it for me as this was my first CNC venture.
awesome job dude!
Thanks you! I was pretty stoked that nothing broke :)
Very cool video!
Thanks for sharing.
Luiz
I hope you good luck mannn!
Thanks!
I have some center drills and some drill/mills as well. I'm going to try a little of everything and see what's what. I appreciate your insight!
Good job ;)
Thanks, it's been a long road to get here :)
whoooo hoooo !!! Congrats you must have been sweating bricks lol
Alfonso
Nice Nice!!!
It mostly depends on the size of the end mill since this machine doesn't have much power. With a .25" square 2-flute HSS end mill the Gwizard tells me I can go .060 deep, 4IPM, at 2100RPM. I might try it at .030 first to see if there is much load on the motor, and if not then I would step it down. I'm still super new and paranoid of breaking cutters so I start off very conservative while testing. I keep notes so I can reuse a speed/feed that I really like.
YUP! For some reason I'm constantly afraid there is going to be a random change in Z and I'm going to crash into my vise. I watch carefully for the tool holder and end mill pulling out :)
Nice! I'm thinking about getting the G0704 and converting it. I have a complete set of electronics & motors from an old CNC router build I can use. Did you upgrade to ball screws or are you running stock screws on your machine? Did you do the conversion from scratch or did you find a kit? Thanks.
So what program are you using for design and which program for G-code creation? Sorry for all the questions, but I look to be following in your footsteps this summer with the G0704 with CNC.
you can mill a piece that is thicker than this and turn it over and mill it to the desired height if you know what i mean
Nice job! Just a question, How big of a cut can these take off on mild steel? 0.020"?
Good to know :)
Great job! Did you use LinuxCNC or Mach3 for this? I know you mentioned having Linux in your cost video, but that you were going to use Mach3.
I'm still using LinuxCNC, but I have installed the trial version of Mach3 and am going to try and get it talking to the mill this weekend. Mach3 looks like a spaceship console compared to LinuxCNC, but should have much much more capability. I have enjoyed LCNC though.
Thanks Russ. I am making motor mounts this weekend. What software did you use to create this end piece. I am getting stoked up to get my mill running. Getting closer!
Thank You.
Bill from Seattle
This part was drawn up in Solidworks and Programmed in MasterCAM, as that is what I was using when I first got started. Today I'd do it in Fusion 360.
Hi Russ. Where can I get Nema 23 connectors for stock G0704 lead screws. Thanks
Bill from Seattle
Hey Bill. I went with Oldham couplings from McMaster. You just need to know your motor shaft diameter and the screw diameter where you'll be installing the coupling. You can then buy both pieces and the center piece (three pieces for each motor you hook up) for your application. I believe my exact part numbers are detailed on my spreadsheet, which you can get to (in my Dropbox) by clicking the link in the video description.
Very cool to see this as your first vid. I also, separately, noticed the post you made when you had the motor failure-- And as well that you otherwise went on to start creating much more advanced parts.
I am thinking of getting my 'feet wet' with CNC machining via the 0704... And wondered if knowing what you know, you'd still recommend it ? That is, specifically, for general prototyping or perhaps very small scale production (I wonder how many milling hours, roughly, you had when the stock motor burnt out ?).
+Anthony Balducci Thanks!
I do like the mill, but I'm starting to feel like I need something bigger. I don't think you can go wrong with this machine, but if you have the space and a little extra cash I would seriously look at the Bolton ZX45 or that Precision Matthews machine (I forgot the model, look for the one about the same price). Both machines are a bit larger than the G with a lot more mass.
The new G0704 motors have a breaker on them, so burning up isn't really a problem anymore. I'm sure I had a few hundred hours one mine before it died.
:) watch out... first you will get addicted.. and after that it will start to feel like work.. :)
HAHA! I hope I can get busy enough playing with it that I can turn it into work.
Is $2700 a good deal for one that's already been converted? The list of upgrades/conversion is below. I'd be using it for knife making.
Grizzly G0704 - Drill/Mill with Stand (www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704)
FlashCut RT-3M-080-3-G0704 - Mini Mill Retrofit Kit - Pro Series Microstepper for G0704
www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Mill-Retrofit-Kit-Pro-Series-Microstepper-for-G0704/T25438?Page
Flood Coolant Unit - littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3520&category=
It's certainly less than what you would spend if you did the conversion yourself. If the conversion was done well and the machine doesn't have any problems, then it sounds like a good deal to me.
russtuff Yeah, true. The conversion doesn't look that complicated. I'm still looking around and considering my options/needs.. A lot of used Bridgeports in my area. But they're older and not sure if they'll be harder to convert. That's if they can be converted at all.
I gotta say, if you have the means and room for a knee mill I'd seriously consider it. The travel, mass, etc, would be very useful. It was never an option for me due to space, and they just don't show up around here often. Rarely actually.
People who I have handed it to say the same thing :)
hi russ
now i understand that the 0 machine is when the axis return to home or to the limit switch on the left corner
and to get the zero workplace we have move the xy z to the plate it self and make the zero axis form there corner and it done and its ready for the g cood to run ???thats i do or i did understand >>is that Right russ
if this step are Right
is there any way to make it or to get the workplace Coordinates faster
i saw this tube
ua-cam.com/video/bhZdbgM6S70/v-deo.html
i dont know how much this method are useful
edge finding
thanks russ
You are correct. Machine coordinates 0,0,0 is where your limit switches are. Work coordinates 0,0,0 is the corner of you part. This guys method is faster than mine. I touch off with a piece of paper.
thank you russ
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