LS Swap S10 Xtreme- Hydro Boost Swap! This was fun...
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
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In this one I go over and finish my hydro boost swap. I did this to gain clearance for the coil pack mounting location on the driver side. Added braking power is a plus as well! This swap was easy, yet a huge pain due to location of bolts and ports. Let me know your thoughts!
insta: jhayes721
Parts needed for swap:
booster from Astro van (you will need the brake pushrod setup as well if you buy a new or refurb unit)
I used parts from Earls to make my lines, parts numbers:
130606ERL (6ft blue hose) or 150606ERL for black
Power steering fittings:
4 of the 90's (you can use 45's if you prefer)
139106ERL for Nickel plated or 159106ERL for black
2 of the -6 AN to 18mm x 1.50 - part 961956ERL
1 of -6 AN to 16mm x 1.50 part 961955ERL
I used my factory cooler lines.
brass 3/8 T to split the return drain lines.
As always your swap may vary so don't hold me responsible if you buy the wrong stuff for your application.
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If you use a ratcheting 15mm box wrench with a pivoting head it makes life way easier. I haven't done the hydroboost swap but I have pulled the brake booster twice and I can't imagine doing it without that type of wrench.
Use a pump that has a remote reservoir. That should give you more clearence over the steering box.
I bought the ICT Billet coil brackets that get the driver rear coil away from the factory booster. It centers the coil packs and places them closer to each other
For the pressure line coming out the pump you should ps banjo bolt with a 6an earls straight fitting female. And for the return line make all the lines 6an female and add a y-block male for your tee
We took a saw all on cut the bolts off...and pulled the rest of the bolt & Nuts off " from inside the car...we were not going to be using it ..so why go through the diffullculty of un bolting it"..There is a 4in brake booster..That is designed for V8 swaps...just like there are Smaller starters designed for V8 swaps...
IT IS WHAT IT IS.**ONE#1**
Ha! ya, i wish i'd have done that. Just didn't think of it while messing around trying to get them all unbolted. that would have made that part of the process so much better!
From the back of the pump it does convert to 6AN and I used high pressure AN fittings to booster and gear. From there the return line was just push on line and fittings since it doesn't have the pressure.
Idk if you resolved the problem or not with the line but an option would be going away with the belt driven power steering pump and go with an electric one you can get one out of the 3rd gen mr2. Plus with it being electric you can run it to a switch so you can turn it on and have power steering if you need to push the car
Great commentator!! Thank you for sharing this build ! Your bad ass
Thats a great video i have a s10 xtreme 2000 and i gonna do the swap
Adding to tee to the return is the wrong way to do it. When you add a tee the return fluid conflicts or clashes with the other creating a slow return of the pedal back to the up position. The correct way to do this is to have a reservoir with two returns.
Nice work bro
You could have made a template for your
valve covers that could have made your coils go up or down where you needed them and kept your brake booster.
What you really needed was an 1 1/8 bore , disc / disc aluminum 79 corvette master cylinder.
That thing you have on there is junk with the lines on the “wrong “ side.
Well that and something better than piss yellow paint.
😂
I have a problem with my hydro boost swap on my C10 after I bleed it out my brake pedal comes back up slow it takes like 5 seconds to come back up idk what the problem is I searched all over and nothing idk if you might know what’s wrong please help!!!!!
Where did you order the rest of the parts for the hydroboost? I bought that same one and have it sitting in the truck. (For the exact same reason...coils...)
Nice build and nice shop. I'm doing an 03 Blazer xtreme. I appreciate your videos. Hopefully they will help me avoid the problems you ran into. I'm using alot of the same parts. It's a super nice Blazer so I'm not going cheap either. I may film some even though I'm ugly and not very camera friendly. lol I have never made a video nor do I know how to edit.
thanks man, it's been a fun one, but def had/having some frustrating moments. i do the videos purely for fun, you should as well if ya think you'd enjoy it!
Wouldn’t a regular hard line be able to be bent for the clearance you need then running a an line? You could also run it to hide better with the hard line if your worried about looks.
Just curious as to why you switched? If it's for the coils, could have simple bought a bracket for that. Anyway, I'm catching up on the build
I just got through pulling the dash out of an '02 2500 HD, there is nothing easy about that process 🤣
Hello can you tell me if the setup you have now works better with the ABS electronic brain box on the right of that unit or is it better to rely on just the hydro boost system itself without the ABS system box? Im new to this that's why I'm asking.
i sold this truck a couple years ago now, sorry if I misunderstand- but the ABS should operate independently of the booster type. if yours has it currently or is a newer vehicle, I'd probably just leave it as is.
Just find the right fitting. You are already all in. You didn't cheap out on anything. Don't go cheap on a fitting that's going to make your life hell in the future.
What size, thread type did you use on the hydro boost head unit? I've got a 87 GN converted from the electric power master to hydro boost. The kit I have uses banjo bolts to I think are 6AN line off the hydo boost head ports from the PS pump and the supply to the gear box. Done quite a bit of reading and there are complaints about noise with kits using banjo bolts at the head unit and SS lines. I'm not so certain its the SS lines but possibly a restriction or flow issue at banjo bolt. What size, thread, type fitting did you use on hydro boost unit end?
that is odd, i am not sure why banjo style would cause a restriction, but i suppose it is possible. I have part numbers and thread size in the description of this vid if you need to try the fittings I used.
Is this a video about how to remove fasteners or about hydro boost 🤔 4 minutes in and we are still talking about how much trouble you had with one nut
Sick tight
First and second gen S10 all share the same specs like bolt pattern and rod length, correct?
not from my experience with the ASTRO hydroboost
Are you still running all your abs with the swamp
2011 Volvo any s model that has a electric power steering pump try it our. Works on my dodge ram
2 days? Glad you weren’t paying shop rate lol
no kidding. I mean it wasn't 2 full 8+ hour works days lol, but it was stupid. my hand kept cramping up and I'd have to stop. If i ever do it again, I would try what another guy on here recommended- loosen just enough to sawzall through the studs from the engine bay.
have you tried banjo fitting
By chance would you know the part number for the master cylinder? I have the hydro pump just not the master.
that is just the stock master from the truck. If you don't have the i'd recommend a raybestos model MC390571. Rock auto has em for about 48 bucks plus shipping.
@@HayesAutoWorx I have a 94 but my master doesn't fit the hydroboost, the diameter is larger on the master so I need to look for something that would fit it
Hi buy any chance would you have the out rod, spring or retainer number were you bought it ebay thank you
Never liked hydro boost brake pedal always feels mushy. Manual brakes are the best for a light vehicle.
Have the ebay pushrod part number?
www.ebay.com/itm/hydroboost-repair-kit-129496-SH-small-hole-/224070575918
Part number 52 7333 for pump