PAW 149 RC TBR
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video is an attempt to show the complete process of resolving a difficult engine starting situation. The engine hasn't been run for 10 years, it's locked solid with congealed fuel residue, and the mid-winter temperature is only 1 or 2°C.
You'll see that we get the engine running within a reasonable time (around 3mn 30sec), and it takes another minute or two to achieve a first flick starting situation... Not bad in 1 or 2°C...
This is totally the wrong way to free up a gummed engine, it should be done with gentle heat which softens the gummy castor oil, never force a prop round as shown on this video.
I am in the process of securing this very same engine. Excellent video!
AWESOME again !!!
I do have that same engine which also has been sitting for about 10 years as well so I will give this a shot again :)
Thanks for that video, I bought an unknown brand diesel engine from Ebay very cheaply recently and from this and another video, I was able to determine that it is a PAW 149 DS.
Well done Brian.
Very interesting, never owned a diesel model engine. Looks fun and perfect match to vintage models
Brad Mullins Thanks Brad, Like I said, this was an attempt to show a "worst case" situation. At the end of the video, the engine starts with just one flick, which is normal. If ever you have the time to watch any of my other diesel videos, you'll see that they're dead easy to operate, great fun and, especially, great vintage plane haulers.
Brian,
Thank you for the information, looking forward to watching your other videos.
I have a 1938 Powerhouse and a similar era Brooklyn Dodger old timer to build. Diesel power would be the ticket.
Best regards,
Brad
Sent from my iPhone
A few questions please: In order to lubricate the piston as quickly as possible, why did you mount it first on the testbench and then try to get it smooth? Wouldn't it be better for all the mechanics, to take the motor in your hands, flood it with fuel in carburettor AND exhaust for better reaching the piston and conrod? Even to open the back of the crankcase which is easy and then lubricate it would be a fast and save way to lubricate it as quick as possible. I think just to prime it via carburettor and flip it over in upright position its a hard time for the piston to wait until it gets lubricated by way less fuel than it could get if turning the whole engine in your hands? Thank you.
Ohhh man, and I was "beating myself" a few days ago expecting a normal running from my Mills engines in a -15 degrees celsius temperature ( I live in Chicago ). I truly enjoying watching your videos not to mention I learn a few new tricks as well :)
Thank you!
Excellent review,
Would it be damaging to over prop this engine?
Your question is a bit vague and this is only my opinion.
Obviously any engine can be damaged by overpropping and then forcing the engine to run on an excessive load.
Underpropping or overpropping are not really a problem providing you just let the engine burble along gently. The problems occur when you try to extract performance, which will either give excessive rpm or excessive loads.
In any case, this particular engine is perfectly happy on any prop between about 7x4 and 10x4.
I normally use a 9x4 to fly vintage RC.
Finally, why would anyone want to overprop or underprop an engine?
Ateşleyici olmadan nasıl çalışıyor buji olmadan 🤔🤔🤔 bilgilendirirmisiniz??
Model diesel engines use fuel containing ether, which ignites by the heat generated by compression.
These are "compression ignition engines". There are many model diesel videos on YT.
Bilgilendirdiğiniz için teşekkür ederim efendim Türkiye den selamlar🇹🇷🤝🇺🇸@@briancox3691
I would soak the whole engine in a can of warm paraffin and let it soak overnight.............and only then attempt to turn it!
Respectfully, all you're saying is that everyone has his own methods! Your method is a lot more "involved" than mine. Mine took 5 minutes, whereas you are taking half a day, you need additional resources (paraffin and heating) and, after that, you still have to get the engine running, which is the only thing I do. So for me, your method would only be justified if my method involved a risk of damaging the engine, which isn't the case! Obviously, with any model engine and particularly a diesel, you always have to "proceed gently" and, in a "worst case", you may have to disassemble, but that's not what we're discussing. The bottom line is that it's always better and much quicker to try the easiest methods first, and then get more "serious" if the easy method is insufficient, but this is rarely the case. Regards, BC
When there are ball races involved, I never use the quick and easy.........bushed motors.....maybe! Brian, thanks for your reply...........I enjoy your videos very much!
There are many ways to do it. personally I would have just heated it up to get it to free up. I am curious how this method did not result in a flooded engine. Being a complete diesel novice, I have always read about really being careful not to flood them. This is really an awesome engine!
Quick update: Flood the engine with epoxy thinners and gently turn until things loosen up................this is the most potent solvent I have come across to date.............don't know what's in it other than the advertised purpose on the label. Will work on gummed up glow and diesel engines.
Brian, I came across the epoxy thinners a month ago, purely by accident, but since I had some glass fibre /epoxy resin repair work to do, I thought I'd get a quart of it............on previous occasions, I had used pure methanol as my solvent and this had never been totally satisfactory. At about the same time, I bought a well used ABC type 40 size glow engine on e-bay that was all crudded up on the outside and decided to try to clean it up with an old tooth brush dipped in some of this particular thinners. My goodness! Did this only work!....... I then tried it on some hard glaze that had baked itself onto the skirt of the piston ...........and to my surprise it melted all of this off in just a few minutes.........with no mechanical intervention other than just the flicking over of the prop by hand! I have never seen another chemical that was neither caustic nor abrasive achieve this sort of result.
How manh price this engine and purchase what a website
Hi, Thanks for your interest.
You can find the engine here:
www.eifflaender.com/price-list
And this is the line (engine) you need.
PAW 09 (1.49 cc) TBR-R/C £118
Good luck ! They are super engines!
Wow !! Sounds like music !!!
Thanks for your interest.
It's a very nice engine, but I have other solutions for music!
Genius at work! Also shows just how sturdy and well-made thse PAWs are. I would hesitste to force some of my engines like that, but Brian knows his stuff.A chaq'un son gout, as they say! Pls excuse dodgy skool boy spelling.
John, you're missing the point that there is no force! Only gentle persuasion!
I only apply very gentle pressure on the prop and, if it doesn't move (yet), it doesn't need more force, it just needs a bit more time...
In nearly seventy years of messing with diesels, I've never used any other method. It's always worked OK and I've never had any problem, providing we have a good engine in good condition, of course. Thanks for your interest! BC
Easiest way to break a conrod or big end especially when almost freezing! The piston is gummed in the bore with castor residue.
When last run some light oil is always a good idea.
Luckily these PAW engines are strong and can survive this sort of treatment.
Messing about exactly.
I wasn’t going to respond to this, but somebody might take you seriously…
First of all, your remarks are based on the assumption that I’m applying excessive force, which just isn’t true. Gentle pressure is applied on the prop, compatible with the size and type of engine of course and, if the engine doesn’t free-up quickly, it doesn’t need more force, it just needs a bit more time. Ether is by far the best solvent of all model engine fuel ingredients, and it penetrates very well and fairly quickly.
Thank you for informing us that pistons gum-up with castor residue (Really, are you sure?!!!), and that light after-run oil is desirable (Wow!). I’ve been doing that for the last 50 years, and it was certainly the case here. However, two points need to be made. Firstly, you have to know in advance that it’s the last run for a while, which isn’t always the case and, secondly, even with the oil, they still gum up slightly after 10 or 20 years.
Finally, I’ve been operating model diesels for the last 72 years. I have a collection of several hundred, so any given engine only gets run fairly rarely (apart from flying), and they’re often a bit gummed up. I must have performed the operations shown in this video literally hundreds of times over the decades, on all sorts of engines, and I have never ever damaged an engine!
So when’s it gonna happen?
@@briancox3691 Yes point taken and yes I still have my DC Spitfire bought in the 60 's with original liner etc along with numerous others.
The fact that you haven't damaged one yet doesn't mean you might not in the future.
Remember a lot of younger people might follow your example without your " finesse" and yes maybe I was being harsh.
A better test stand and tank might be something to invest in with all those engines you have.
Regards,
Jeremy
@@jeremyrichards8327 Jeremy, another major point occurred to me after my last answer.
The "raison d'être" of our model engines is to fly planes, and not just our fooling around on the bench. Just about any solution, other than mine, would necessitate removing the engine from a plane, and such "other solutions" also involve all sorts of other possibilities of beginner error, so I still think my method is generally better, especially for non-engineers like me.
Concerning your "test stand" remark. I have at least half a dozen test stands. I assume you're referring to the tank setup arrangements.
The problem is that if you run very many different engines (in my case, from 0.2cc up to 30cc), that have all sorts of different tank configuration requirements, I've decided against adopting any one system, but rather bodging something up that works, each time, just to run the engine...
Finally, I have a super opportunity right now to produce a video "to help beginners", which will probably meet with your approval. I'll let you know when it's done. I'm waiting for reasonable weather for a video in the garden.
Best regards, BC
@@briancox3691 Yes glad to hear that as we all have experience to pass on in order to keep the hobby going.
Regards,
Jeremy
@@briancox3691 Hi Brian,
My test stand is an old DC one which will take large glows.
It is mounted on a piece of thick aluminium plate under which is bolted a wooden block which sits in the jaws of a Workmate when used.
Behind this are 2 parallel pieces of alloy curtain runner with nylon runners connected across with a coiled spring.
With a small foam pad inserted between the runners I then loop the spring over whatever tank I wish to use, clunk for glow, marine tank( yes I ran marine engines as well ) for diesels.
You can vary the height of the tank with the thickness of foam pad to suit the carb/ intake height.
Keeps everything from wandering about in the slipstream and a quick wipe of the aluminium afterwards keeps things ship shape.I have even made a thin spanner as on small glows the silencer is close to the clamp bolt for the engine and needs a bit of care to tighten.
Regards,
Jeremy
Have one of these babies on a scaled-up "Just Right" . Throttle and rudder/only.They are sweet running engines, as shown on your running.Mine was also gummed-up, don't know how long it had been un-run.thanks for the video!cheers from the land down-under
Thanks for your interest. I'm an old free-flighter, but I've never tried RC without an elevator. I don't suppose I ever will now, as with modern gear, the weight per extra function is negligible.
really nice video i have this engine but not the rc carb version its going in a veron deacon
Thanks for your kind comment. My first PAW was a plain carb 1.49, in 1960, and it still runs great! The Veron Deacon is a really nice plane. Build it light and fly in calm weather... Lovely!
HI! i just get one of those! lovely engine!!! thinking to use on Pietenpol 48" wingspan... do you think is good for it? i build light, and will be just rudder, elevator and carb. Best Regards Rodrigo
Hi Rodrigo, I hope you're still there! And well! This engine would be about right for a 48" Pietenpol. You'll certainly have enough power!
@@briancox3691 I bet that a149 would have done the job.
I had one once and it would swing a four blade 8-4 prop but just barely and it idled fine. This and ME Snipe are my favorite small RC scale motors. I was thinking of putting it into my 1" scale Vickers Vimy, but never got past the fear of the struts breaking when I cranked the motor at high compression. I'd still like to build a scale job for this motor. Thanks, Paul
Wow, well there are plenty of scale jobs simpler than a Vimy (nearly anything!).
All these PAW RC TBR engines are superb. You don't need to use force against high compression...
I normally run and fly this engine on a 9x4. It's already flown in a Radio Princess, and I shall make a David Boddington Mini Super for it one day...
At the moment, I'm desparately waiting for some reasonable weather, to shoot more videos...
Thanks for your interest!
Couldn’t agree more, and then running it over compressed. Really made the engineer in me wince. Still he got away with it, it seems.
Brian, heureux d'entendre ta voie qui pestifère sur le moteur pour le dégommer et le démarrer.
Tu as gardé un bon coup de patte.
Merci Claude, mais je ne pestifère jamais contre un bon moteur, et les autres, ben je ne les garde pas !
Je voulais juste montrer une "pire des cas" situation, et qu'il n'est pas nécessaire d'y passer des heures, comme on voit parfois sur les terrains...
WD-40 works wonders for loosening up engines like this. And sometimes, they'll fire on it
Thomas Ryan Yeah Tom, Thanks for your comment.
I sometimes use WD40 when the objective isn't to run the engine. In this case, I just wanted to show a method of starting and running the engine as easily as possible, so there's not much point in using anything other than fuel.
I once had a Mills 1.3 run for a few seconds on WD40, while I was holding it in my fingers.
I remember reading a letter in Aeromodeller where a lad tanked up on equal quantities of "Thawpit" and "3-in-1", and the model went oos Happy days
Your videos are the best!!!I'm also an engine freak!!!
Thanks for your kind comment. There will be more videos very soon. I've been mostly flying planes during the summer.
Brian Cox we also..check our chanell
ua-cam.com/video/hXf3WyuSB6w/v-deo.html
All this time I thought you thought my channel was the best! LOL!
David McIntire you are on my No1 list David... you will always be!!
I'am really hoping I can get the PAW 149-DS-4 on RCGroups today. Then I will have 4 diesel engines.