I'm a gun smith, and when I have any small fly away parts or springs , I place the part in a 1 gallon zip lock bag. Both hands will fit and you can still see what you are doing. A tip I think you will like! Enjoy watching you work on your 'special' engines.
are you sure youre a gunsmith? you don't even know how to spell it. i have a white plastic box i use for that purpose. i usually charge extra if i have to use it (box fee)
The T1 is one of my favorite locomotives! The correct color is Brunswick Green. I was published in the August '87 issue of modelrailroader on this specific locomotive.
Yep. That hitch is definitely a customization not found on the original. Bowser steamers are very rugged and powerful. The T1 is definitely the most complicated loco they made. Later versions had many lost wax detail parts you could add to them but the basic mechanism remained almost identical from the original Penn Line version until the last ones of the early 2000s.
@@SMTMainline It is very difficult to date these. I think the spring loaded brush tensioner was a late 60s through early 80s design. Also that box is a later design. Early Bowser (Montoursville, not Redlands) boxes were just red and white Penn Line boxes with a Bowser sticker on them. Next generation boxes were mostly white with some green. Your mostly green box is, I believe, an indicator that this is an 80s era kit.
@@jefflynnalex I'd bet that the quality of the castings were better earlier on. This just looks like it was cast from a mold that was used for a couple of decades.
Beautiful locomotive, both the real thing and the model. Many of the real T1s met their fate at the scrapper's torch at a now closed scrap metal facility in Sharpsburg, PA, just 10 minutes from my home. Now an organization is in the process of building a new T1.
I lived in Sharpsburg and I knew that scrapyard. I remember the big gantry crane visible from the Highland Park Bridge. The last sight I saw there before it closed was dozens of ex- Pittsburgh PAT PCC trolleys awaiting their fate.
Quite a handsome engine, the drive system is very fascinating with the twin-motor setup. The lights definitely improve the look of the model, can't wait to see this out and about in future!
I'm not a RR Modeller, but still enjoy your videos. My dad was with the Illinois Central for awhile and Grandpa was a clerk with The Rock Island. Grandpa would take us kids to the switch yard and we'd watch 'em switching all the cars around. Thanks for entertaining the little kid in me.
“I think I found the solution - don’t screw up” LOL. I’m making t-shirts. Excellent project. From trash to treasure. Even though I know what the outcome will be I’m still engaged throughout the entire video. Hard to do these days with Tik Tok-like videos trending.
A great tip I learned from watchmaking when removing springy bits is to do it inside of a large clear plastic ziplock bag that way when it goes flying it's contained in the bag
As some people have mentioned before, I’ve used bags, but in those locomotives with sprung brushes, I usually just put a flat head screwdriver between two of the coils and you are able to hold the screw easily, also helps for maneuvering the spring back into place without worrying about crushing the screw. Most helpful on tyco power torques and the Bachman and lifelike versions of the power torques.
Wow, Harrison, you have the patients of a saint. Your diagnostic skills are quite amazing. Didn't take you long to figure out the short between tender and engine. Very nice loco. I was beginning to think you weren't gonna have success--but, hey, we have a RUNNER! W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Good job on the T1 . I built one over twenty years ago from a new kit. It is a Tough loco to make run well and you did a good job. I would sand down the paint job and paint it flat black. They were never clean in real life .C-D-S made T1 decals in Canada years ago, you might find them online
It's a very instructive pleasure to follow you giving new live to an incredibile and fascinstong old Bowser locomotive. Particolary moment is you putting on an indomabile spring for brushes... Old Bowser model are among my favorite; I have some streetcars and interurbans Brill. The exploded drawing of your locomotive is art.
Another method I used to clean the commutators on afx cars was a pencil eraser cleans them nice and the rubber dust is easier to clean up than the fiberglass bits. Live the channel!
Of course, you got a runner, Harrison. But a real looker, not yet. That paint needs to be removed and reapplied with an airbrush, some new decals, and clean up the drive rods. Great job getting her riding the rails. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Great video as always! I've got one of these locomotives (a dual-motor version, much like yours from the looks of it). The gentleman I purchased it from said something like "this thing will pull a house". He wasn't joking (okay, maybe the house part), but that locomotive walks away with just about any heavy train.
I knew about how the motor brushes worked on this loco, and I was almost yelling, "Noooooooo" through the screen. If I was there, I would have stopped you from making that mistake.
One idea I've always thought about with an engine like these Bowser T1s is the idea of converting to dcc with each motor given it's own decoder. Going with sound decoders, that would make timing offbeat exhausts more accurate sounding and you can do neat tricks like simulating wheel slip, which the T1s were notorious for
Decoder-per-motor setups are actually the standard for G scale dual-motor models, so it should work on the smaller scale provided there's space for it.
@@SMTMainline I’ll have my 1970s D&H equipment available for running and my Z scale suitcase layout! Hopefully we can collab! Also, i hear the show is completely sold out which is exciting.
That's an awesome locomotive. Looks pretty cool with those wagons attached to it.. Another Job well done.. I did notice a new layout in the back ground, nice green hill and all.. And also did notice 4 diesel locomotives which reminded me of the movie Runaway Train starring Jon Voight...
Congrats for that, I have some Bowser steamers to work with, so this video gives me hope :) The only thing I would to verify on your model is the second truck on the tender. I think it should be another 4 wheel truck. Anyway great model and video.
Great restoration. At 5:14 I put playback speed at slowest . the spring shot off going left and straight up near left hand. Its unfortunate that its gone. Im sure it will be found somewhere. But by time that happens it be a long long time. I know the feeling done that myself many times on rhings ive worked on and its like that essential screw or something
@@mercuryoak2 yeah I’ll tell you this if I had a older bowser steam loco like this one right here, I’m probably gonna try to be kinda careful with it when taking off the spring.
@@MattKonsol there isn't any other way to do it it comes off it comes off. It's a poor design there was an easier way to do it with the motor because I come into it motors have a spring that's attached to the top and it pushes against the brushes one is insulated the other one is not. I'm not saying Bowser is a bad manufacturer but it's just from that time frame it wasn't a good idea. Unfortunately Bowser does not sell kit locomotives anymore they're all ready to run
@@SMTMainline you know there is a group actually building a new T1 duplex. It's a couple years away from being finished. Can't wait to see it run. The real ones were scrapped not to far away from my present location.
When I was a kid I would go to swap meets and find Penn Line (later on Bowser) locos that people had put together and got as far as the Walshearts valve gear and gave up. I got really good at riveting the valve gear and got many fine Pennsy engines for pennies on the dollar. Had one of the T1s and it would pull anything you could put behind it. Great video!
I’ve only built a couple kits and can understand why people would get frustrated with them. Takes a lot of patience and skill to make them work right. It’s great to hear about someone mastering the skill
Those skills I learned while I was young have turned into a hobby of fine scale model building in which some of the builds number into the thousands of hours. Just remember, the most complex kit is still put together one part at a time. The hardest thing is knowing when to stop!
Yep have made a few sacrifices to the shag carpet ( basement floor in your case)gods over the years. While still a bit of flickering there was some very definite flickering of the headlight before the short was fixed.
@@SMTMainline yep restoring my father in law's Revell set I scavenged some springs from some old grungy sprung trucks ( Revell were truck mounted couplers these were from body mounted and separate trucks) and needed only 8 springs and had 19. I burned through all my extras and only made it to completion because one spring launched in such a way it got trapped and was recovered. The other one was building a model of KITT and dropped the steering yoke and the part just vanished. Figured I was going to have complete it with no steering method until I noticed it had caught on my pant leg just above my shoe.
Just bought one of these bowser t1s this is a great video especially if I need to troubleshoot mine when it arrives from America. Love the fact that Bowser's are articulated whereas the bli version isn't but that's exact to the prototype. Personally I'm going to be happier with the Bowser because it means it'll be able to handle tight curves and have better traction
Watch repair vids are adept at losing very tiny parts during disassembly. They sometimes use a clear plastic bag but even then parts go flying. Vintage Watch Services is a good channel. One begins to know the watch parts after awhile. There was one channel where the watchmaker dropped the entire contents of a watch mechanism on his floor and miraculously he found every last piece. Those guys are very funny.
@@SMTMainline if ya get stuck with a real tough decal, let me know. My daughter can make some with her CriCut. Just got done doing a decal job. Last video post. Railcity Brewing Co Build.
Since it has 2 driving motors I’ve always wondered how much it could haul on a straight slat surface. I guess you could use a scale and see how many newtons it pulls.
Don't forget that Penn Line/Bowser locomotives weigh a ton. Twin motored, one can probably pull the paint off the wall. I have a pair of Bowser I1 2-10-0's and you have to exert yourself to pick one up.
I literally just bought a single motor version of this kit a week after the unboxing video of this came out. It’s an older version of the kit I think, it has a brass frame and a different version of trailing truck. I think mine is an older version.
You should give it a better paint job, the one it has is kind of rough and also doesn't match the tender perfectly (Look closely, it isn't the same shades). P.S. Great video! This is the kind of stuff I subscribed for!
with those twin pittman motors, that T-1 should literally pull paint off the wall...remeber it was designed in an era of all metal passenger and freight cars that had trucks with the general rolling characteristics of a solid lead brick!
At the start of the video, what is that red and blue engine on the top left of the shelf? It seems like an East German engine called Ludmilla, but I'm still very curious about the engine.
Harrison, do you prefer getting the same locomotive new or one that needs fixing? I'm heading to a train show in Minneapolis Minnesota and if there are any suggestions on what to pick up, I have a 200$ budget. Great fix!
Problem with the drive shaft is the motors aren’t timed and they will work harder, just a suggestion is leave the drive shaft off. In effect the two motors will run at different rpm’s, running them without the drive shaft will keep them from fighting each other
Great video, nice to see this one running. Question I have a old Playart steam engine I took aparr 10 times and cleaned everything, there is a wobble to it and nothing is bent or broken... could that just be how it was assembled from factory?
your drivers may not be aligned and because of this, your drawbars are not symmetrical. Make sure your drivers are parallel to each other in other words make sure that when one side of the drivers have the drawbar mounting point in the same position as each other, the drawbars and drivers on the opposite side must also be in the identical position. I believe for many, the drawbars are about 90 degrees off from each other. If not, this will cause wobble.
@@Xtream__Attitude Yes, the drivers must be off by %90. It could also just have bad wheels, I got a playart locomotive years ago and the wheels weren't made correctly.
@@SMTMainline I got it on consignment in a hobby store and everything is fine on it I just checked the wheels too and they are fine... the body was a tad bent and I fixed it the best I could but the wobble is still there on low speeds only
@@Xtream__Attitude no problem. I had a little shunter years ago and was twisting/aligning the wheels and missed. It ran but wobbled horribly. It was a quick lesson for me as there were only 4 wheels to deal with but alignment was paramount. Happy training!
Nice job with the fixup. One thing I noticed is that it seems like the hitch part for the tender would fit better mounted with the pin facing down. Not sure if the tab sticking out from the tender will support itself though. Anyway, nice job.
You will not be disappointed by that screwdriver. A good friend of mine gifted me the exact screwdriver and I have been looking for another for my mobile toolbox. Great little tool…..enjoy.
I'm a gun smith, and when I have any small fly away parts or springs , I place the part in a 1 gallon zip lock bag. Both hands will fit and you can still see what you are doing. A tip I think you will like! Enjoy watching you work on your 'special' engines.
What a brilliant idea!
hoq so
That's genius, thanks for the tip.
Excellent Man gotta remember that cool magnets also help
are you sure youre a gunsmith? you don't even know how to spell it. i have a white plastic box i use for that purpose. i usually charge extra if i have to use it (box fee)
The T1 is one of my favorite locomotives! The correct color is Brunswick Green. I was published in the August '87 issue of modelrailroader on this specific locomotive.
This channel is so relaxing. It’s like watching bob ross, and I’ve started fixing up old locomotives because you inspired me!
I'm a huge fan of Bob Ross and am a huge believer in his idea that a hobby is about enjoyment and not about making something perfect.
i would be violent bob ross working on some of this junk!
The Harrison Touch continues to prevail. I love when you are able to hook up several cars and watch her pull them with ease. Thank you. 😊
Thanks. I'm sure this loco could probably haul around 50 cars with the amount of weight it has.
@@SMTMainline holy moly that is a lot. Would be really cool to see.
Yep. That hitch is definitely a customization not found on the original. Bowser steamers are very rugged and powerful. The T1 is definitely the most complicated loco they made. Later versions had many lost wax detail parts you could add to them but the basic mechanism remained almost identical from the original Penn Line version until the last ones of the early 2000s.
It's amazing they made these things for so long. I wonder when mine. is from.
@@SMTMainline It is very difficult to date these. I think the spring loaded brush tensioner was a late 60s through early 80s design. Also that box is a later design. Early Bowser (Montoursville, not Redlands) boxes were just red and white Penn Line boxes with a Bowser sticker on them. Next generation boxes were mostly white with some green. Your mostly green box is, I believe, an indicator that this is an 80s era kit.
@@jefflynnalex I'd bet that the quality of the castings were better earlier on. This just looks like it was cast from a mold that was used for a couple of decades.
Beautiful locomotive, both the real thing and the model. Many of the real T1s met their fate at the scrapper's torch at a now closed scrap metal facility in Sharpsburg, PA, just 10 minutes from my home. Now an organization is in the process of building a new T1.
I lived in Sharpsburg and I knew that scrapyard. I remember the big gantry crane visible from the Highland Park Bridge. The last sight I saw there before it closed was dozens of ex- Pittsburgh PAT PCC trolleys awaiting their fate.
Quite a handsome engine, the drive system is very fascinating with the twin-motor setup. The lights definitely improve the look of the model, can't wait to see this out and about in future!
it's gonna be awesome when the get the real thing done. It's probably what I will re paint it into.
Im glad your fixing up one of these, very unique model.
Nice work as always getting this one back on the rails. When a loco looks like it was painted with a broom, you know it's going to take some work.
Great job on that engine. It's always a good day when smt uploads a new video
I'm not a RR Modeller, but still enjoy your videos. My dad was with the Illinois Central for awhile and Grandpa was a clerk with The Rock Island. Grandpa would take us kids to the switch yard and we'd watch 'em switching all the cars around. Thanks for entertaining the little kid in me.
That must have been an exciting thing to see. Were you watching from the switching tower?
IT LIVES!
Seriously satisfying to see this epic boi riding the rails again!
Now that was a great job. I look forward to the end product after painting, etc.
very happy to see such a beautiful engine run again, great job smt
“I think I found the solution - don’t screw up” LOL. I’m making t-shirts. Excellent project. From trash to treasure. Even though I know what the outcome will be I’m still engaged throughout the entire video. Hard to do these days with Tik Tok-like videos trending.
A great tip I learned from watchmaking when removing springy bits is to do it inside of a large clear plastic ziplock bag that way when it goes flying it's contained in the bag
Take a piece of single strand wire, completely strip it and run it through the spring, then put 90 degree bends in the ends, remove the spring.
Wow really nice restoration on this prr t1 from bowser.
That particular design always fascinated me. You definitely have been fortunate to locate one. As always nice job with the restoration.
It sure is and I hope they succeed on the project of building one today.
As some people have mentioned before, I’ve used bags, but in those locomotives with sprung brushes, I usually just put a flat head screwdriver between two of the coils and you are able to hold the screw easily, also helps for maneuvering the spring back into place without worrying about crushing the screw. Most helpful on tyco power torques and the Bachman and lifelike versions of the power torques.
That's an excellent idea
nice loco, i really love the T1’s.
Wow, Harrison, you have the patients of a saint. Your diagnostic skills are quite amazing. Didn't take you long to figure out the short between tender and engine. Very nice loco. I was beginning to think you weren't gonna have success--but, hey, we have a RUNNER! W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Nice restoration Harrison, pretty wild looking machine there!
Yup I agree with you
Good job on the T1 . I built one over twenty years ago from a new kit. It is a Tough loco to make run well and you did a good job. I would sand down the paint job and paint it flat black. They were never clean in real life .C-D-S made T1 decals in Canada years ago, you might find them online
you overestimate him....
It's a very instructive pleasure to follow you giving new live to an incredibile and fascinstong old Bowser locomotive. Particolary moment is you putting on an indomabile spring for brushes... Old Bowser model are among my favorite; I have some streetcars and interurbans Brill.
The exploded drawing of your locomotive is art.
Thank you so much!
You are literally the angel of model engines you save them from scrap keep doing this stuff, I love your repair and EBAY haul videos
Thanks, I try my best to get them going again :)
I'm happy to see that it's a really good runner!
Another method I used to clean the commutators on afx cars was a pencil eraser cleans them nice and the rubber dust is easier to clean up than the fiberglass bits. Live the channel!
Great low angle track side video!
Nice work! Brought it back from the brink of extinction.
Congratulations friend! Enjoy it a lot, for more successes! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
You did an amazing repair on that and just seem to be getting better and better at doing this and I really enjoy watching your videos 👍
Every time I do one of these repairs I learn a little more which can be applied to the next one.
SMT mainline you secede to amaze us all with the repairs. Keep up the great work 👍🏻🇨🇦🚂🥓
Thank you!
Of course, you got a runner, Harrison. But a real looker, not yet. That paint needs to be removed and reapplied with an airbrush, some new decals, and clean up the drive rods. Great job getting her riding the rails.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Nice to see this old loco come back to life. Good job!
Great video as always! I've got one of these locomotives (a dual-motor version, much like yours from the looks of it). The gentleman I purchased it from said something like "this thing will pull a house". He wasn't joking (okay, maybe the house part), but that locomotive walks away with just about any heavy train.
Only one mechanical pencil was hurt in the making
While I'm not into scale trains myself, I do like old trains a lot, and I find your videos very entertaining 😊🚂.
Greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
I knew about how the motor brushes worked on this loco, and I was almost yelling, "Noooooooo" through the screen. If I was there, I would have stopped you from making that mistake.
I was waiting for this one!
One idea I've always thought about with an engine like these Bowser T1s is the idea of converting to dcc with each motor given it's own decoder. Going with sound decoders, that would make timing offbeat exhausts more accurate sounding and you can do neat tricks like simulating wheel slip, which the T1s were notorious for
They were only notorious for that because it was way more sensitive than the k4, so the engineers gave it too much throttle.
That's a super interesting idea but wiring such a thing would be a nightmare and I don't know where you would fit the decoders and speakers.
Decoder-per-motor setups are actually the standard for G scale dual-motor models, so it should work on the smaller scale provided there's space for it.
Great to see more models being restored- hope you can make it to the Massena show next weekend!
I'm gonna try, I miss that show.
@@SMTMainline I’ll have my 1970s D&H equipment available for running and my Z scale suitcase layout! Hopefully we can collab! Also, i hear the show is completely sold out which is exciting.
I love the T-1. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
That's an awesome locomotive. Looks pretty cool with those wagons attached to it.. Another Job well done.. I did notice a new layout in the back ground, nice green hill and all.. And also did notice 4 diesel locomotives which reminded me of the movie Runaway Train starring Jon Voight...
Now this was really cool!
You are the master with this stuff. Also I noticed you add new brass to the layout. Layout update coming soon perhaps
I plan to make some major changes to the track work soon. The other stuff you see is just small cosmetic work.
Another SMT success! You really have a talent for fixing model trains.
Thank you!
I was just gifted one of this same model. Your video will be a HUGE help in getting it running again.
I'm glad to hear that!
Congrats for that, I have some Bowser steamers to work with, so this video gives me hope :) The only thing I would to verify on your model is the second truck on the tender. I think it should be another 4 wheel truck. Anyway great model and video.
Great restoration. At 5:14 I put playback speed at slowest . the spring shot off going left and straight up near left hand. Its unfortunate that its gone. Im sure it will be found somewhere. But by time that happens it be a long long time. I know the feeling done that myself many times on rhings ive worked on and its like that essential screw or something
Yeah i did the same and saw the spring fly off to the top left of the screen
@@CustomiZe_ yeah but it's unfortunate it's gone. But I like the way he used a pen spring to fix it. Now that's using ingenuity
@@mercuryoak2 yeah I’ll tell you this if I had a older bowser steam loco like this one right here, I’m probably gonna try to be kinda careful with it when taking off the spring.
@@MattKonsol there isn't any other way to do it it comes off it comes off. It's a poor design there was an easier way to do it with the motor because I come into it motors have a spring that's attached to the top and it pushes against the brushes one is insulated the other one is not. I'm not saying Bowser is a bad manufacturer but it's just from that time frame it wasn't a good idea. Unfortunately Bowser does not sell kit locomotives anymore they're all ready to run
This thing is a beautiful beast. I imagine it really has a presence on the track.
It sure does, I wonder what it can pull?
@@SMTMainline Probably quite a lot considering how massive it is. I've heard that these models are insanely strong.
First rate loco! I would like to see you do a cosmetic restoration too.
Beautiful loco. Nice video.
13:48 Always a fun project when lighting things on fire is involved
No doubt
Would be great to strip the paint on the shells and re apply a fresh coat.
Nice job mate 👍
Nice job. Those of us from Pennsy country are smiling
The PRR sure had some good stuff, huge fan of those GG1s
@@SMTMainline you know there is a group actually building a new T1 duplex. It's a couple years away from being finished. Can't wait to see it run. The real ones were scrapped not to far away from my present location.
Nice video and can you do a double heading big boy train please.
Thanks for posting before the weekend, you said you’d post it on the weekend on stream!
Thanks, I was up until 3 last right trying to meet the target.
You don’t need to do that, I would be happy just the same if you posted the next day. But thanks, I live in Portland, so it was closer to twelve.
I had my Broadway Limited T1 come in last Sunday and i adore the thing. Unlettered though but it's such a detailed locomotive and runs smoothly.
When I was a kid I would go to swap meets and find Penn Line (later on Bowser) locos that people had put together and got as far as the Walshearts valve gear and gave up. I got really good at riveting the valve gear and got many fine Pennsy engines for pennies on the dollar. Had one of the T1s and it would pull anything you could put behind it. Great video!
I’ve only built a couple kits and can understand why people would get frustrated with them. Takes a lot of patience and skill to make them work right. It’s great to hear about someone mastering the skill
Those skills I learned while I was young have turned into a hobby of fine scale model building in which some of the builds number into the thousands of hours. Just remember, the most complex kit is still put together one part at a time. The hardest thing is knowing when to stop!
Yep have made a few sacrifices to the shag carpet ( basement floor in your case)gods over the years.
While still a bit of flickering there was some very definite flickering of the headlight before the short was fixed.
I really wish I hadn't lost that but trying to find that spring would be worse than a needle in a hay stack.
@@SMTMainline yep restoring my father in law's Revell set I scavenged some springs from some old grungy sprung trucks ( Revell were truck mounted couplers these were from body mounted and separate trucks) and needed only 8 springs and had 19. I burned through all my extras and only made it to completion because one spring launched in such a way it got trapped and was recovered. The other one was building a model of KITT and dropped the steering yoke and the part just vanished. Figured I was going to have complete it with no steering method until I noticed it had caught on my pant leg just above my shoe.
Just bought one of these bowser t1s this is a great video especially if I need to troubleshoot mine when it arrives from America. Love the fact that Bowser's are articulated whereas the bli version isn't but that's exact to the prototype. Personally I'm going to be happier with the Bowser because it means it'll be able to handle tight curves and have better traction
The larger flanges are a huge advantage for that.
Tender truck hitting the side of the tender. That locomotive is designed for a minimum radius of 26”
Those are good runners. There is a brass strip the connects the tender trucks and the power wire gets connected to that.
Watch repair vids are adept at losing very tiny parts during disassembly. They sometimes use a clear plastic bag but even then parts go flying. Vintage Watch Services is a good channel. One begins to know the watch parts after awhile.
There was one channel where the watchmaker dropped the entire contents of a watch mechanism on his floor and miraculously he found every last piece. Those guys are very funny.
This T1 won’t be heading to the scrap yard now that it can run. And that sounded a lot better in my head.
One of my favorite body designs.
I think you are a model rr restorer genius. A Canadian James May. Kudos!!😊
I'm a fan of James May so I really appreciate that.
Back of the tender has a three axle truck.
Hello smt Mainline how you doing that Pennsylvania t1 is awesome looking locomotive
Beasty! Thee old girl warranted a new coat of paint👍👍🚂🇨🇦🚃🚃🚃🙋
And then some lol. I need to find some decals and proper paint.
@@SMTMainline if ya get stuck with a real tough decal, let me know. My daughter can make some with her CriCut. Just got done doing a decal job. Last video post. Railcity Brewing Co Build.
Good job
Those old browsers Are not easy to keep running.
Since it has 2 driving motors I’ve always wondered how much it could haul on a straight slat surface. I guess you could use a scale and see how many newtons it pulls.
Well we do the math. I say 50 freight cars. I have a brass Mohawk and it can pull 35
That seems reasonable for a dual motor engine.
That seems reasonable for a dual motor engine.
@@gamerfan8445 50 sounds about right. It's usually less about the strength of the motor, and more about how much it can take before slipping.
Don't forget that Penn Line/Bowser locomotives weigh a ton. Twin motored, one can probably pull the paint off the wall. I have a pair of Bowser I1 2-10-0's and you have to exert yourself to pick one up.
Now I want to find one of these for myself. This is a great locomotive with some good looks.
This engine is a bow wowser , arf , arf !!!
I literally just bought a single motor version of this kit a week after the unboxing video of this came out. It’s an older version of the kit I think, it has a brass frame and a different version of trailing truck. I think mine is an older version.
You should give it a better paint job, the one it has is kind of rough and also doesn't match the tender perfectly (Look closely, it isn't the same shades).
P.S. Great video! This is the kind of stuff I subscribed for!
From a scrapyard special to the pride of the line!
with those twin pittman motors, that T-1 should literally pull paint off the wall...remeber it was designed in an era of all metal passenger and freight cars that had trucks with the general rolling characteristics of a solid lead brick!
Excellent vid.
Ahhhh the first video that the famous blue screwdriver appears.
Rewatching for nostalgia
Have an identical one, runs but needs more attention!
At the start of the video, what is that red and blue engine on the top left of the shelf? It seems like an East German engine called Ludmilla, but I'm still very curious about the engine.
I don't know much about it, it was sent in by a subscriber as a project around a year ago.
Thats a bold looking loco and looks to be able to pull a lot.
Harrison, do you prefer getting the same locomotive new or one that needs fixing? I'm heading to a train show in Minneapolis Minnesota and if there are any suggestions on what to pick up, I have a 200$ budget. Great fix!
Well done, young man!
Great video. Recently got one of these. Love the way the really heavy locos sound on the tracks!! Any idea when these were made?
Excellent Job!!!!
Nice beautiful engine
I’ve had one of those screw drivers for years. Most excellent.
Problem with the drive shaft is the motors aren’t timed and they will work harder, just a suggestion is leave the drive shaft off. In effect the two motors will run at different rpm’s, running them without the drive shaft will keep them from fighting each other
I think they are similar enough to run roughly the same speed but that is a valid point if something goes wrong with ether of them.
Great video, nice to see this one running. Question I have a old Playart steam engine I took aparr 10 times and cleaned everything, there is a wobble to it and nothing is bent or broken... could that just be how it was assembled from factory?
your drivers may not be aligned and because of this, your drawbars are not symmetrical. Make sure your drivers are parallel to each other in other words make sure that when one side of the drivers have the drawbar mounting point in the same position as each other, the drawbars and drivers on the opposite side must also be in the identical position. I believe for many, the drawbars are about 90 degrees off from each other. If not, this will cause wobble.
@@anthonymunoz6013 thanks :) I never worked on a steam engine before so this had me confused.
@@Xtream__Attitude Yes, the drivers must be off by %90. It could also just have bad wheels, I got a playart locomotive years ago and the wheels weren't made correctly.
@@SMTMainline I got it on consignment in a hobby store and everything is fine on it I just checked the wheels too and they are fine... the body was a tad bent and I fixed it the best I could but the wobble is still there on low speeds only
@@Xtream__Attitude no problem. I had a little shunter years ago and was twisting/aligning the wheels and missed. It ran but wobbled horribly. It was a quick lesson for me as there were only 4 wheels to deal with but alignment was paramount. Happy training!
Something from Chinesian Tire made in Canada? Unbelievable!
I know right, I had a double take when I noticed it was Canadian made.
The lower headlight on the pilot Loewy "Coke machine" was a fog light added to some of the T1s for use in Ohio.
That was law in the state?
@@SMTMainline Not to my knowledge, I think it was just specific weather conditions.
nice job! please give it an extension with a paint job! ;)
Nice job with the fixup. One thing I noticed is that it seems like the hitch part for the tender would fit better mounted with the pin facing down. Not sure if the tab sticking out from the tender will support itself though. Anyway, nice job.
i just realized that the rear truck on the tender is broken and missing an axle,this poor thing had a rough life
Someone must have run the snot out of it considering the wear on the gears and motor.
@@SMTMainline 8 wheel tender trucks are occasionally available on E-Bay - you are looing for part number 7006
You will not be disappointed by that screwdriver. A good friend of mine gifted me the exact screwdriver and I have been looking for another for my mobile toolbox. Great little tool…..enjoy.
Nice...for small parts, I use a mini muffin tin to keep thing separated and organized.