Man, this is like the last video, old proposed project from an old video finally getting restored, been looking forward to this one as well, this locomotive always intrigued me, I wonder what happened to the frame and how it got snapped in half, it was interesting to think about how bad that model had to have been treated while I was watching the video you got the locomotive in.
SMT, wonderful work on diagnosing the locomotive insulation issue.. To have surgical skills of restoring difficult locomotives 🚂 is a worthwhile achievement. Some manufacturers have made improvements and some bad decisions in motor designs. Yet most locomotives run well on different track grades. I found that some rails are more difficult to use because of the flange and height of the rails themselves. I forgot about the various rail heights and shallow-ness of the rails that locomotives can’t run on. Atlas, Tyco Tru-Steel and other rail brands differ greatly. Great to see a locomotive run like new. Thanks SMT! I have a Rivarossi “Yard Goat” 0-8-0 locomotive that has an issue running on my dad’s old layout.
@@lawnmowermanTX switch frogs, crossovers, and rerailers often give the most problem; they are not made deep enough to accommodate these old "pizza cutter" flanges. Code 100 track works for most of it; surprisingly, old Atlas sectional and Life-Like Powerloc track has allowed me to run just about anything; the only thing that gives my trouble is an old Jouef clockwork engine from the 1950s; and it mostly complains on the switches and my RR crossings.
@@survivingworldsteam I have a Rivarossi 0-8-0 Yard Goat locomotive 🚂 that complains on my Dad’s train board. My Dad’s Atlas layout was built in the 1980’s from a 4x8 plywood sheet, and has various retail store shallow grade rails, turnouts and rerailers. I’m not rich enough to retire early and rebuild, rewire and upgrade the whole layout with the proper track and turnout code. I would like to use the taller track and turnouts for the main line and the storage, breaker’s yard for shallower tracks. Try to keep everything consistent with real time and real world railroads.. I wasn’t sure what era to use other than a fun run layout to see how many cars simulated loaded would haul. No DCC no sound effects, old school power pack, push button remote or manual turnout, love to put a cab cam or caboose cam of interior of a caboose out of a side window and the doors to give that movie effect of being on a train like Silver Streak in the 1970’s movie.. A cab, passenger car, caboose and observation car video camera 🎥 system.. With HiDEF 4K..
🎶 Davy, Davy Crockett, king of the wild frontier. 🎶 One of these days, Harrison, someone is going to write a song about you, king of classic train restorations. Great job! Thanks for sharing. 👍🐾👍
Hey Mate what a great job of getting the Old Davy Crockett up and running👍. Mum and Dad got me one whe i was 6 or7 it had the working smoke stack it was the greatest thing ever at the time. Thanks for a quick trip down memory lane. Good onya mate👍👍.
Awesomeness. So glad to see it running. I was back in hospital and not the facility again. They are trying to save my big toe and get rid of pneumonia. Cross your fingers
You are amazing. Somehow you bring these old locos back to life. Long live the Davy Crockett. Battle of the Alamo. Yes, my hometown San Antonio, Texas.
Hi, These ols Triang Hornby Locos were fitted with an X03 or X04 motor that were always very noisy. I am very surprised to hear how quiet this motor was and a smooth runner when on Hornby track. Another successful repair and another old timer rescued. Great job. Cheers, Paul.
We have a few of the old Triang American cars at the shop I work in. We also had some US N scale come into the shop and I made the decision to get an Atlas Burlington GP-30 and some freight cars! Good to see another successful repair!
1:45 I had that same experience (I was given a free livestock boxcar when I ordered a Tyco/Mantua ATSF F7A for repairs (main issue with the loco was the metal wheels on the front truck were on the same side as the rear trucks)
Just read through the other comments. You're my kind of model railroader, and I LIKE you! I'd rather have the robust, basic reliability of these veteran models, which keep on running, than the inbuilt delicacy and fragility of the modern stock, no matter how finely detailed they are. I envy you the Varney Yellowstone - a very rare bird indeed here in Britain, which I only know from a photograph in a very old (slightly prewar, by about 1 day!) book. I daren't look at Ebay HO nowadays - there's been some dangerously tempting stuff on there. Threes and eights on you, good buddy.
Nostalgia fest, I got one for Christmas from my parents back in the early 60s, it came with a couple of passenger carriages, dad built a layout so my brothers and me could easily run our trains.
Who would have thought this would be as hard or harder to get running than the Yellowstone! Great video!! I literally LOL'd the 3rd time it didn't run!
Hi there ,, ive worked on heaps of these triang x03 and x04 motors. The bits that flew of is a part of the shellac or the paint varnishy type of covering that goes on the outsode of the motors to stop it from rusting and should be ok with out it. The thing on the front will more than likely work as these old thing were made before planned obscellessance and were made to go for a long time. You will find that the main things to clean properly are the wheels the brass wipers that contact the wheels on the botton plate and a good oiling goes really well. I got one of these running with in 5 minutes so i pulled it down for a major servrvice replaced the axle bushes as well as these were decayed due to age. The other thing like other locos is the quartering when replacing the insulator bushes on the axles. Once you do that they run like a clock and are widely used in nearly all the 0-6-0 shunters steamers Pacific locos and diesel 08 class loco's. It is a shame you cut the yellow wire as that is the smoking unit that my 1 has too. When i got mine going the first time it ran a little puff of smoke came out of the brass stack that is at the front. These also take only a drop of smoking fluid and is still made today for these smoking units. You can easily join and solder the yellow wire and the smoke unit will more than likely work. Im missing the cow catcher the front headlight and a few of the domes and bells too. Good to see you got it running. Cheers from John in Australia.
I think of the old song Davy Crockett when I watch this. This makes me want to dig out my grandfathers old die cast locomotive and fix it up. It does run. same mechanism as this.
Great job as a collector you have proven that if you are patient you can get what you need for the right price. Turned out great and on a side note love the cat I am a huge lover of British Blues, Russian Blues and also had a Corat until recently love those grey guys (or girls)
@@SMTMainline Oh I'm sure they are they look really cool it would be cool to see the smoke puff out but I can imagine that it is a lot of work to get that up and running again
Well done, Paul!. I've also got one of these engines - a long time favourite of mine, and as you say hard to find in good condition. Things to watch for - the cylinder block can get fragile with 'plastic fatigue'; many I've seen have broken off, losing the cylinders. Same applies to the pilot, cab roof and headlight. I noticed you helping her through modern points, as if 'sticking' in the flangeways - Triang's wheel back to back was coarse by modern standards, and tends to bind. The simple cure is to gently lever the insulated drivers out on the axle a little and widen the gauge - there's enough 'slop' to let you do it. The model is actually quite a decent representation of the real thing, far more so than many English fans perhaps realised. I suspect it's made from plans of a T,NO&C mogul in the Kalmbach 'Cyclopedia' which matches pretty closely. The coach which ran with it has very strong Pennsylvania overtones, particularly the deep valances over the end platforms, and again Model Railroader drawings of the early 60's suggest the source. In Australia I believe the engine was marketed as the 'Ned Kelly'!
The Ned Kelly version may have just been a one year catalogue illustration proposal in Australia. A very big Australian Triang collector would often display part of his collection in Melbourne exhibitions. Discussed the Ned Kelly version with him but he had never seen one. Ned Kelly is still a very polarising name in Victoria, especially with those with family connections to the area where the 1870-1880 events took place. Lots of UA-cam vids with far more detail on the Ned Kelly story.
Great job as always. I’m surprised you’re not into 3D printing. You could print your own parts. I think. Wait a second.. you mentioned a basement overhaul. Are you making space for a 3D printing station?? Lol. “Mom, Dad, as you know, I have a UA-cam channel. And a very large locomotive collection. I think it’s time we move all of your stuff into storage.” Lol
Those smoke units are pretty delicate, there was a resistor next to the motor because the smoke runs on 6 or 9 volts or something. I learned that the hard way once, where I wired the smoker directly to 12 volts, the engine ran very slowly, and there was a red glow out of the smoke stack, then pop and it was done! Melted the smoke stack, got so hot! But that is a very cool engine!
@@SMTMainline - A resistor connected in series with a load, like the smoke unit element, is known as a "dropping resistor" because it would drop some of the input voltage across itself.
SMT - It might be a good idea to put some oil on the crosshead guides that are coming out of the back of the cylinders, to reduce the friction between the guides and the crosshead. For smoke fluid, you could see if you get mineral oil from your pharmacy & try it out!
@@SMTMainline Be VERY careful which oil you use! Those old plastics can react badly with oils - particularly Peco Electrolube or 3in1 and will break up. I'm referring to British brands - don't know what you use stateside, but the same applies.
@@SMTMainline The resistor in the middle may not be insulated all the way, see that it doesn't touch the bowl at the top. There's smoke fluid available from brands like Seuthe, probably Walthers as well. And don't overfill the unit, it only takes a few drops at a time.
As always, entertaining video. I got a little laugh when you stated it was remarkable that Triang/Hornby hadn't changed the design of the motor in almost 20 years. Hornby to this day are still cranking out models based on that chassis platform. When I see that 0-6-0 wheel spacing it screams old triang chassis. I think they've gotten their money worth of the design, at least 50 years of throwing a different body shell on the same chassis.
First of all: I'm astonished that YOU had a failure!! It's the first I've seen (other than the cursed Acela). Second - I am NOT AT ALL SURPRISED that you got the baby running again!!! My complements to the Master!!!
Great restoration ! It has the standard 0-6-0 chassis used on many Triang Hornby locos over the years. You’d be able to swap it for the chassis on your GWR Pannier tank for example. It should be able to run on code 100 track OK. All my old Triang Hornby locos are ok on Peco though they will only go through universal points. The fine scale ones defeat them. 1950’s Triang locos are a no go though as the flanges are even bigger, but anything from the early 60’s is OK. Maybe the frog sections on your points are too fine? Try adjusting the back to back of the wheel sets.
Wow Finally the Triang Davy Crockett gets its repairs. I like how you put the dome where i did look it up that's how it supposed to look but it has a Pointed area for the whistle. Hopefully i don't make any typos due to me typing this on my 2011-2012 desktop which i put a Linux operating system on it since windows was being a pain. any way Good job on the revival
Another video. Good to see you alive as always! I’m gonna get a dcc diesel locomotive. What locomotive should I get? (Presumably thinking of like an sd70 or something like that) I’m taking any suggestions!
great job, I feel I should mention that the old hornby/tri ang locos are 12v max, they are not designed to run at 18v. those old xo3,xo4 motors are quite resiliant and could sometimes need re magnetising.
Like all Triang it's HO gauge of 16.5 mm. However Triang like many other vintage toy type makes of the era went in for deep Lionel style flanges and wide wheels to better keep on their track with their higher rails to give the flanges clearance. The deep flanges caused problems touching the rail fixings on Harrison's more modern code 100 track. Triang original needs their track of code 125 or more. This is really a made up locomotive to use a common Triang chassis so the scale could be anything from OO 1/76 to HO 1/87.
Triang use OO scale for their models of British trains and approximately HO for models of other countries but varied since they were not exact models usually but made to suit their existing running gear.
Triang locomotivas, from experience are pretty durable cause I have a 1973 coronation scot which at the time didnt work because the motor would turn but the wheels wouldnt but all I had to do was give it some gears from another older triang that I used to have and a good cleaning and it worked perfectly
The motor appears to be similar to the one that Mantua/Tyco used in their steam locomotive kit/rtr’s. The fluted steam dome from Tyco’s “old timer” 4-6-0 would be a good fit on this locomotive. It would go on with no modification as the dome has a “splined” stud on it. Great work on getting an obvious economy loco.
6:23 I think that's part of the plastic tape stuff off the commutator, but fortunately that's not essential. I don't know why Tri-ang stuck it on- rust-prevention or something, I don't know.
Clearly this is not the case, because they are different engines to the one I bring to reply. But if I were to acquire a 19th century locomotive, I would name it "General" in honor of the locomotive in the Buster Keaton movie. Taking care, of course, that it does not end up falling into a river xD Speaking of vintage stuff... the Gomez Adams diorama. Did you know that all the accident scenes were the same scene repeated every time? It was disappointing to learn that as a kid I imagined something else, when it never existed. Although, the diorama in the 1991 movie, was a nice one!
Love the channel. Had a question for a repair. Maybe someone can help. I have a couple of tyco sets from 1972. Been in the family since new. When my dad ran them, he used steel wool to clean the tracks. Turns out that is a bad idea. (who knew lol). The bits of steel wool made their way to the motors in the locos, wreaking all sorts of havoc. What is the best way to clean the steel wool bits from these locos, giving them another chance of riding the rails once again? A local model train repair shop offered to trade them for his stock. I refused saying I wanted to pass ours down to younger generations in the family.
They can be a bit tricky to work on the first time but they're gonna have to be disassembled and cleaned manually. I have several videos working on tyco locomotives so you can follow any of those to show how to. Don't get rid of them, they are super easy to find parts for and won't be worth much on a trade in anyway.
Gonna comment before I watch SMT I know you can do it even if u can’t fix it try again I’m working with a life like loco I forgot the name but you made a video on it being bad I’m trying to fix mine now and I thought I could not do it but today I tried again and it works so keep trying!
I've been successful in sanding down the flanges before, I've just gotta be super careful with this one since these things (Believe it or not) are worth a mint...
@@SMTMainline I guess you got lucky. I might advise you not to do so with older Triang. Some of them were made with harden steel from WWII tanks. As such, they were more solid than the tools people tried to use to sand them down!
Man, this is like the last video, old proposed project from an old video finally getting restored, been looking forward to this one as well, this locomotive always intrigued me, I wonder what happened to the frame and how it got snapped in half, it was interesting to think about how bad that model had to have been treated while I was watching the video you got the locomotive in.
SMT, wonderful work on diagnosing the locomotive insulation issue.. To have surgical skills of restoring difficult locomotives 🚂 is a worthwhile achievement. Some manufacturers have made improvements and some bad decisions in motor designs. Yet most locomotives run well on different track grades. I found that some rails are more difficult to use because of the flange and height of the rails themselves. I forgot about the various rail heights and shallow-ness of the rails that locomotives can’t run on. Atlas, Tyco Tru-Steel and other rail brands differ greatly. Great to see a locomotive run like new. Thanks SMT! I have a Rivarossi “Yard Goat” 0-8-0 locomotive that has an issue running on my dad’s old layout.
@@lawnmowermanTX switch frogs, crossovers, and rerailers often give the most problem; they are not made deep enough to accommodate these old "pizza cutter" flanges. Code 100 track works for most of it; surprisingly, old Atlas sectional and Life-Like Powerloc track has allowed me to run just about anything; the only thing that gives my trouble is an old Jouef clockwork engine from the 1950s; and it mostly complains on the switches and my RR crossings.
@@survivingworldsteam I have a Rivarossi 0-8-0 Yard Goat locomotive 🚂 that complains on my Dad’s train board. My Dad’s Atlas layout was built in the 1980’s from a 4x8 plywood sheet, and has various retail store shallow grade rails, turnouts and rerailers. I’m not rich enough to retire early and rebuild, rewire and upgrade the whole layout with the proper track and turnout code. I would like to use the taller track and turnouts for the main line and the storage, breaker’s yard for shallower tracks. Try to keep everything consistent with real time and real world railroads.. I wasn’t sure what era to use other than a fun run layout to see how many cars simulated loaded would haul. No DCC no sound effects, old school power pack, push button remote or manual turnout, love to put a cab cam or caboose cam of interior of a caboose out of a side window and the doors to give that movie effect of being on a train like Silver Streak in the 1970’s movie.. A cab, passenger car, caboose and observation car video camera 🎥 system.. With HiDEF 4K..
🎶 Davy, Davy Crockett, king of the wild frontier. 🎶 One of these days, Harrison, someone is going to write a song about you, king of classic train restorations. Great job!
Thanks for sharing. 👍🐾👍
David Z to G - L.O.L!
I wish haha
Hey Mate what a great job of getting the Old Davy Crockett up and running👍. Mum and Dad got me one whe i was 6 or7 it had the working smoke stack it was the greatest thing ever at the time. Thanks for a quick trip down memory lane. Good onya mate👍👍.
Awesomeness. So glad to see it running. I was back in hospital and not the facility again. They are trying to save my big toe and get rid of pneumonia. Cross your fingers
I hope all goes well for you.
Prayers sent
Hope it goes well, get better soon.
Praying for you!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'm really sorry to hear that, this certainly has not been an easy year for you so far. Wishing all the best for you :)
You are amazing. Somehow you bring these old locos back to life. Long live the Davy Crockett. Battle of the Alamo.
Yes, my hometown San Antonio, Texas.
WOW!!! Great job Harrison!!!
Very nice work. It is good to she the old girl rolling on the tracks!!
Enjoyed your video.....the good feeling you get from a successful restoration never gets old!
Thanks Harrison for the video. Nice "Runner"!
Hi, These ols Triang Hornby Locos were fitted with an X03 or X04 motor that were always very noisy. I am very surprised to hear how quiet this motor was and a smooth runner when on Hornby track. Another successful repair and another old timer rescued. Great job. Cheers, Paul.
I think the foam floor helped muffle the sound of the locomotive. I haven't heard one this quite ether.
Remember when you started this project, glad to see you continue
Looks like this is gonna be another great restoration!
Great seeing the old girl running finally, great job Harrison!🚂🚂🚂🚂
It’s really great to see others besides me working on old stuff left for the scrap pile….. cool!!
It's good that more people are getting into it, many locomotives will be saved from the landfill.
Good job! Its amazing how you can make anything run like a Swiss watch!
Congrats on getting it going. I love triang trains, never actually saw that Crockett loco.
This made me so happy. I've been hoping you'd work on this engine again
We have a few of the old Triang American cars at the shop I work in. We also had some US N scale come into the shop and I made the decision to get an Atlas Burlington GP-30 and some freight cars! Good to see another successful repair!
1:45 I had that same experience (I was given a free livestock boxcar when I ordered a Tyco/Mantua ATSF F7A for repairs (main issue with the loco was the metal wheels on the front truck were on the same side as the rear trucks)
Good job Harrison. I never doubted you would get it running.
Great work! I love seeing the old steam engines.
Very solid troubleshooting. Looks like you got a good running Christmas tree train
I've been waiting for a follow up video to the original for ages. thanks Sir!
My pleasure!
Just read through the other comments. You're my kind of model railroader, and I LIKE you! I'd rather have the robust, basic reliability of these veteran models, which keep on running, than the inbuilt delicacy and fragility of the modern stock, no matter how finely detailed they are. I envy you the Varney Yellowstone - a very rare bird indeed here in Britain, which I only know from a photograph in a very old (slightly prewar, by about 1 day!) book. I daren't look at Ebay HO nowadays - there's been some dangerously tempting stuff on there. Threes and eights on you, good buddy.
SMT is a living legend at his work because this is amazingly impressive and good job to you SMT mainline!
- AWVR 777
Thanks, this one was a challenge.
You didn’t say we had a runner haha
Your a.. train?
I remember when you first tried to fix it glad you got it running great work as always :)
Nostalgia fest, I got one for Christmas from my parents back in the early 60s, it came with a couple of passenger carriages, dad built a layout so my brothers and me could easily run our trains.
A great job restoring a beautiful classic steam locomotive.
Triang trains are great, but yes, you need the appropriate track to run them on. Great job!
Who would have thought this would be as hard or harder to get running than the Yellowstone! Great video!! I literally LOL'd the 3rd time it didn't run!
I never would have guessed, I kinda thought this would be an easy one but I guess you never can tell.
Great you got it working again! Nice one, best wishes from the UK
great to see this running. love these locomotives. great job.
Hi there ,, ive worked on heaps of these triang x03 and x04 motors. The bits that flew of is a part of the shellac or the paint varnishy type of covering that goes on the outsode of the motors to stop it from rusting and should be ok with out it. The thing on the front will more than likely work as these old thing were made before planned obscellessance and were made to go for a long time.
You will find that the main things to clean properly are the wheels the brass wipers that contact the wheels on the botton plate and a good oiling goes really well.
I got one of these running with in 5 minutes so i pulled it down for a major servrvice replaced the axle bushes as well as these were decayed due to age. The other thing like other locos is the quartering when replacing the insulator bushes on the axles.
Once you do that they run like a clock and are widely used in nearly all the 0-6-0 shunters steamers Pacific locos and diesel 08 class loco's. It is a shame you cut the yellow wire as that is the smoking unit that my 1 has too. When i got mine going the first time it ran a little puff of smoke came out of the brass stack that is at the front. These also take only a drop of smoking fluid and is still made today for these smoking units. You can easily join and solder the yellow wire and the smoke unit will more than likely work.
Im missing the cow catcher the front headlight and a few of the domes and bells too.
Good to see you got it running.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Thanks for the info on these locos John. Hopefully the motor will be fine without the rust prevention as it's pretty dry in the basement.
I think of the old song Davy Crockett when I watch this. This makes me want to dig out my grandfathers old die cast locomotive and fix it up. It does run. same mechanism as this.
Wow I thought I would never see that train again and it is cool
Great job as a collector you have proven that if you are patient you can get what you need for the right price. Turned out great and on a side note love the cat I am a huge lover of British Blues, Russian Blues and also had a Corat until recently love those grey guys (or girls)
It's good too because these things cost a mint.
@@SMTMainline Oh I'm sure they are they look really cool it would be cool to see the smoke puff out but I can imagine that it is a lot of work to get that up and running again
Well done, Paul!. I've also got one of these engines - a long time favourite of mine, and as you say hard to find in good condition. Things to watch for - the cylinder block can get fragile with 'plastic fatigue'; many I've seen have broken off, losing the cylinders. Same applies to the pilot, cab roof and headlight.
I noticed you helping her through modern points, as if 'sticking' in the flangeways - Triang's wheel back to back was coarse by modern standards, and tends to bind. The simple cure is to gently lever the insulated drivers out on the axle a little and widen the gauge - there's enough 'slop' to let you do it.
The model is actually quite a decent representation of the real thing, far more so than many English fans perhaps realised. I suspect it's made from plans of a T,NO&C mogul in the Kalmbach 'Cyclopedia' which matches pretty closely. The coach which ran with it has very strong Pennsylvania overtones, particularly the deep valances over the end platforms, and again Model Railroader drawings of the early 60's suggest the source.
In Australia I believe the engine was marketed as the 'Ned Kelly'!
The Ned Kelly version may have just been a one year catalogue illustration proposal in Australia.
A very big Australian Triang collector would often display part of his collection in Melbourne exhibitions. Discussed the Ned Kelly version with him but he had never seen one.
Ned Kelly is still a very polarising name in Victoria, especially with those with family connections to the area where the 1870-1880 events took place.
Lots of UA-cam vids with far more detail on the Ned Kelly story.
Awesome dude 👍
Really nice restoration on this here!
Last weekend I had fun at the train show in Eugene, Oregon, Lane County Fair Grounds
Great job as always. I’m surprised you’re not into 3D printing. You could print your own parts. I think. Wait a second.. you mentioned a basement overhaul. Are you making space for a 3D printing station?? Lol. “Mom, Dad, as you know, I have a UA-cam channel. And a very large locomotive collection. I think it’s time we move all of your stuff into storage.” Lol
My teakettle had the same problem not correcting track Sold it safety reasons as it ran over several plastic pedestrians
Saved another one Harrison. Well done.
Those smoke units are pretty delicate, there was a resistor next to the motor because the smoke runs on 6 or 9 volts or something. I learned that the hard way once, where I wired the smoker directly to 12 volts, the engine ran very slowly, and there was a red glow out of the smoke stack, then pop and it was done! Melted the smoke stack, got so hot! But that is a very cool engine!
I wasn't aware of that, thanks for letting me know.
@@SMTMainline - A resistor connected in series with a load, like the smoke unit element, is known as a "dropping resistor" because it would drop some of the input voltage across itself.
Johnsons baby oil works wonders as smoke oil. And it smells nice too!
Are you sure it's safe to breath? I heard it was dangerous to do that.
@@SMTMainline i have not been told that. I’ve been using it for years on TriAng models and never (fingers crossed) had any side effects
If I had to go through what you did with the Davy Crockett , it would have been smashed against the nearest wall ! Kudos to you for your patience !!
I wasn't far off from that by the end but ultimately I got what I wanted out of it.
Once again, nice job 😊👍
3:09
That “uh oh” is priceless
SMT - It might be a good idea to put some oil on the crosshead guides that are coming out of the back of the cylinders, to reduce the friction between the guides and the crosshead. For smoke fluid, you could see if you get mineral oil from your pharmacy & try it out!
I added some oil to those off camera. I should test out that smoke unit, it could be an exciting feature.
@@SMTMainline Be VERY careful which oil you use! Those old plastics can react badly with oils - particularly Peco Electrolube or 3in1 and will break up. I'm referring to British brands - don't know what you use stateside, but the same applies.
@@SMTMainline The resistor in the middle may not be insulated all the way, see that it doesn't touch the bowl at the top. There's smoke fluid available from brands like Seuthe, probably Walthers as well. And don't overfill the unit, it only takes a few drops at a time.
I’m not all that into oo gauge stuff, but this was, yet again, another great restoration. Very cool video.
Old train back up n running again nice job
Nice work fun to watch thank you
I have a good feeling you will make that ho engine run I love watching you fixed engines It's very relaxing for me Learn how to fix them
As always, entertaining video. I got a little laugh when you stated it was remarkable that Triang/Hornby hadn't changed the design of the motor in almost 20 years. Hornby to this day are still cranking out models based on that chassis platform. When I see that 0-6-0 wheel spacing it screams old triang chassis. I think they've gotten their money worth of the design, at least 50 years of throwing a different body shell on the same chassis.
I guess if the design ain't broke don't fix it? I'm amazed they are still using those motors.
Nice restoration. It fought you alittle but you got the best of it. 😀 Nice little steam engine.
It sure did but I'm thrilled with the results :)
best vid I've seen today.
great to see it running the rails again
It's Based off B&O number 600 J.C. Davis!
Hey man, awesome fix
First of all: I'm astonished that YOU had a failure!! It's the first I've seen (other than the cursed Acela). Second - I am NOT AT ALL SURPRISED that you got the baby running again!!! My complements to the Master!!!
Thanks. This one was a little more tricky but I'm happy to have completed it.
Pre tin the brush bracket. Put the brush face down use a pen torch to reattach the pieces….
HARRISON ! YOU CAN GET EM BOTH TO RUN , IT 's TIME TO KITBASH ! YOU CAN DO IT ! 😎
It was called the model club train show presented by Williams, Cascade
Ya let the magic smoke out, never a good sign that happening.
Once the genie is out of the bottle she ain't going back.
My Money Is On you. I would Love To see You Get both of those Engines Running.
Any chance you can Get your 4-4-0 Running?
Old Triang on modern track... we all experienced it!
I'm not familiar with Tri-Ang trains, but that was a good restoration! It is tricky working on steam engines.
I like the look of that locomotive in terms of the old look and that smoke stack cool
My dad took me to it. It was fun getting guess what I found A couple of dummy, locomotives, southern, pacific collectible train
Great restoration ! It has the standard 0-6-0 chassis used on many Triang Hornby locos over the years. You’d be able to swap it for the chassis on your GWR Pannier tank for example. It should be able to run on code 100 track OK. All my old Triang Hornby locos are ok on Peco though they will only go through universal points. The fine scale ones defeat them. 1950’s Triang locos are a no go though as the flanges are even bigger, but anything from the early 60’s is OK. Maybe the frog sections on your points are too fine? Try adjusting the back to back of the wheel sets.
Just to let you know, sometimes there is a motor is in the tender.
Hi SMT I got good news that package I sent you has arrived at your P.O. Box and ready for you to review😁
I will go have a look for it.
Wow Finally the Triang Davy Crockett gets its repairs. I like how you put the dome where i did look it up that's how it supposed to look but it has a Pointed area for the whistle. Hopefully i don't make any typos due to me typing this on my 2011-2012 desktop which i put a Linux operating system on it since windows was being a pain. any way Good job on the revival
I would also want to check the wheel sets for gauge and the tread contour
Another video. Good to see you alive as always! I’m gonna get a dcc diesel locomotive. What locomotive should I get? (Presumably thinking of like an sd70 or something like that) I’m taking any suggestions!
The flanges are huge as they were made for the old Triang track which was also very chunky
magic smoke express!
BEAUTIFUL Harrison
Its a nice train
great job, I feel I should mention that the old hornby/tri ang locos are 12v max, they are not designed to run at 18v. those old xo3,xo4 motors are quite resiliant and could sometimes need re magnetising.
And the Disneyland express is off to a great start
What Gauge is the davy Crockett train and track?
Like all Triang it's HO gauge of 16.5 mm.
However Triang like many other vintage toy type makes of the era went in for deep Lionel style flanges and wide wheels to better keep on their track with their higher rails to give the flanges clearance.
The deep flanges caused problems touching the rail fixings on Harrison's more modern code 100 track.
Triang original needs their track of code 125 or more.
This is really a made up locomotive to use a common Triang chassis so the scale could be anything from OO 1/76 to HO 1/87.
Triang use OO scale for their models of British trains and approximately HO for models of other countries but varied since they were not exact models usually but made to suit their existing running gear.
Once again its a runner.
I Lo❤e The Davy Crockett Locomotive! It's The King 👑 Of The Wild Frontier 🏹
Triang locomotivas, from experience are pretty durable cause I have a 1973 coronation scot which at the time didnt work because the motor would turn but the wheels wouldnt but all I had to do was give it some gears from another older triang that I used to have and a good cleaning and it worked perfectly
The simple design certainly works in their favour but like anything they need maintenance.
The motor appears to be similar to the one that Mantua/Tyco used in their steam locomotive kit/rtr’s. The fluted steam dome from Tyco’s “old timer” 4-6-0 would be a good fit on this locomotive. It would go on with no modification as the dome has a “splined” stud on it. Great work on getting an obvious economy loco.
6:23 I think that's part of the plastic tape stuff off the commutator, but fortunately that's not essential. I don't know why Tri-ang stuck it on- rust-prevention or something, I don't know.
It's not a bad idea since I've seen locomotive from Florida with lots of rust on the armature.
Fantastic video thank you
I love your ho scale model restoration videos cause i love trains
Thanks
I'm till looking for a Davey crockett locomotive thanks gor the video and tons of information on this hard to find locomotive
Awesome, i have the same loco with the smoke unit working, ITS a beautifuñl mchine
nice! btw the wheel bearing/axels seems dry..good runner!!
Clearly this is not the case, because they are different engines to the one I bring to reply. But if I were to acquire a 19th century locomotive, I would name it "General" in honor of the locomotive in the Buster Keaton movie.
Taking care, of course, that it does not end up falling into a river xD
Speaking of vintage stuff... the Gomez Adams diorama.
Did you know that all the accident scenes were the same scene repeated every time? It was disappointing to learn that as a kid I imagined something else, when it never existed.
Although, the diorama in the 1991 movie, was a nice one!
SMT - I wonder if that round brush was made for another model of motor? It may have been bridging 2 commutator plates & causing the motor to stall.
'I don't want to open this thing up again'
**proceeds to open it up again**
Love the channel.
Had a question for a repair. Maybe someone can help.
I have a couple of tyco sets from 1972. Been in the family since new. When my dad ran them, he used steel wool to clean the tracks. Turns out that is a bad idea. (who knew lol).
The bits of steel wool made their way to the motors in the locos, wreaking all sorts of havoc.
What is the best way to clean the steel wool bits from these locos, giving them another chance of riding the rails once again?
A local model train repair shop offered to trade them for his stock. I refused saying I wanted to pass ours down to younger generations in the family.
They can be a bit tricky to work on the first time but they're gonna have to be disassembled and cleaned manually. I have several videos working on tyco locomotives so you can follow any of those to show how to. Don't get rid of them, they are super easy to find parts for and won't be worth much on a trade in anyway.
You could try using a vacuum cleaner with a small tip.
Ya know I was going to ask about this thing
Gonna comment before I watch SMT I know you can do it even if u can’t fix it try again I’m working with a life like loco I forgot the name but you made a video on it being bad I’m trying to fix mine now and I thought I could not do it but today I tried again and it works so keep trying!
Where can I find spregs for a motor for a life like for 1982
You can probably use some off a scrap bachmann or tyco locomotive.
Nice! I hope you can go back and repair the smoke unit!
You could also maybe file down the wheel flanges (although they don't look that deep?).
I've been successful in sanding down the flanges before, I've just gotta be super careful with this one since these things (Believe it or not) are worth a mint...
@@SMTMainline I guess you got lucky. I might advise you not to do so with older Triang. Some of them were made with harden steel from WWII tanks. As such, they were more solid than the tools people tried to use to sand them down!