On point the best this was when you took the both parts out and check them and see the differences ( by probing ) that was detailed good write-up tech video VERY useful and insightful Chuck .
Hello there chuck I replaced mine in august 2020 because for the last 5 years or more I didn’t have any heater plus the a/c at night comes really cold because I cannot adjust the temp , i watched a video on UA-cam (in arabic) for replacing the dash , i toke off the steering column , air bags, radio , hvac, glove box ,every thing at the end there no room for the third screw 😁, i wish if i did this years ago thanks for the video there not so much on youtube talks about the dash and how removing it.
This worked exactly as you said it would! It took me about 3 hours to do, but my AC works beautifully now and this saved me about $500 in labor from a mechanic!
Hey Mr.Chuck, it's me again. I have an 03 vic lx 260k miles (handed down from my father) and I think the blend door went out. I am getting full heat but no A/C, but it's winter-ish still in the east coast but we still get all 4 seasons here. I did the system check and during the test, I was getting a consistent "thump." I got code "124" which I think means the blend door failed. I can do simple maintenance like oil/ transmission fluid change, but never did something like this time consuming, kinda due to my inexperience and I'm kinda young. Do you suggest I give this a try, or should I just go through my local Ford Dealer? They asked about 400-600. Thanks for reading and hope you have a nice day. - Raf
Right on Raf, Thanks for watching. The thump noise you describe may be the plastic gears inside the blend door actuator have stripped out. Before yo go any further you may want to confirm the A/C compressor is clicking on/off when turned on. $600 for Ford Dealer replacement sounds low. My local Ford Dealer quoted me $1,000. Given the part only cost $45, I decided to try. It's up to you, but if you have a location to work on your car like a garage, it might be worth it to spend 3-5 hours teaching yourself how to do this, in order to save $550-$950. It's not difficult, just time consuming, and requires patience. -Chuck
Chuck- This procedure worked like a charm on my 08 Grand Marquis! Thank you for breaking down the sequence, especially pulling the three bolts on the top of the dash. I now have cold air and didn't have to pay a shop $550-$800.
Right on Mitch, Thanks for watching, and the good feedback. I don't think I've seen you around here before. Welcome to the club, prepare to be disappointed. Lol -Chuck
I need some help with this but for ac. I bought a new actuator and it still didn’t work. All the control on the climate control works but when i change the temperature dial, the number change but the servo doesn’t move.
@@PanzerPlatform I figured it out. I had to plug in the actuator, then turn switch to run, and press automatic and floor def at the same time. It will do a diagnostic, and reset itself...And I think (don't quote me) press floor or vent to end diagnostic...
I'm going to have to tackle this on my '07 Grand Marquis here in the Spring. Stuck on full heat and even on bitter cold days, I find myself rolling down windows, lol.
@@PanzerPlatform Already done. I went to the dealer and got it couple weeks back. It's in my glove box, right now. Dreading this repair, lol. But, I'm definitely not gonna spend the $1,000 the dealer quoted me to replace it.
Remember those days when I owned my Marauder. I encountered the same problem. I took it to a specialist and 30 mins to break down and 30 mins to put it back together. A good friend of mine so he only charged me for the hour.
@@VitaliyKofman All problems in life can be solved with either "time or money". Earn money to pay a mechanic, or spend your time and teach yourself to fix it. Or, a little of both. Life is all about have options. -Dhali Llama
Right on Mr. G Thanks for watching. No. I took a pair of dikes, and cut a small section of the "loop" for the back bolt on the actuator the same width as the bolt. Then I loosened the back bolt just a few threads, and slid the new actuator into place. Then install the other two bolts, and lastly snug down the last back bolt. -Chuck
Thanks, Chuck. I've been watching a while now, but this is my first time commenting. I don't own a panther platform car right now, but I'm in the market for one to replace my 2001 Buick Regal. I came across a 2004 Grand Marquis with 114000 miles that will be in an estate auction at the end of the week. I went to check it out and most of it was good. The body had no flaws and there was no rust anywhere (which is saying a lot in Ohio!). The engine ran great and the transmission shifted fine. But there was one problem - the overdrive would not turn on. Pressing the switch did nothing. I'm a very amateur mechanic, so I wanted to ask your opinion if you think this might be an uncomplicated problem that could be solved, or more trouble than I would want to take on? If you were at the auction, how much might you bid on it? Please keep up with the great videos!
Right on Alan Thanks for watching, There’s about 100 possible reasons why the car will not shift into 4th gear (overdrive). There’s no way to know until a thorough diagnosis is performed. It could be something as simple as a blown fuse, low fluid level, malfunctioned shift solenoid, malfunctioned coolant temp sensor, dirty transmission filter & fluid. All of these can be performed without removing the transmission. Next it could be something more complex like a broken internal snap ring, or malfunctioned valve body. Worse case scenario, a rebuilt transmissions cost $1,500 - $2,000, and about $1,500 - $2,000 labor for installation. So possibly as much as $4,000 total. With the information you’ve given me I would personally bid no more than $500. If I won the car for $500, I’d be willing to spend another to $500 to fix the transmission problem. If the transmission repairs exceed $500, I would “park” the car and just sit on it, and maybe replace the transmission at a later date, or use it as a “parts” car. Either way there are too many unknowns, and too much risk to bid over $500. Sorry, I’m not much help. -Chuck
Just an update to my original comment. I got around to replacing my blend door on my 2007 Grand Marquis a few months ago. I decided to pull a little test on it simply by unplugging and re-plugging it back in and it's been working perfect ever since, lol. So when it does finally go bad, I've got a new blend door sitting in the glovebox. Hopefully, it will keep working!
Does anyone have a suggestion on if the Blend Door Actuator may be closing improperly? I can get heating and A/C on my vehicle without any problems but when I have the climate control off entirely I still get a small amount of hot air coming out of the vents
Right on Jose, Thanks for the great question. What is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your car? This might help; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html -Chuck
@@JGameAndWatch Right on, Try this to check for HVAC error codes; ua-cam.com/video/1g4v4aHqIzI/v-deo.html - It will also perform a self-calibration, and may free up a sticking door. You may also have an obstruction, like a linkage rod malfunction, or maybe foreign debris preventing full swing operation of the door. Come back with a progress update for more help. -Chuck
Hi Chuck #PanzerPlatform , thank you for the video. My 2011 LX was stuck on AC with no heat. With your video, I was able to do the repair with confidence this past weekend. I have the EATC. Yours also seems to be the only video that mentions how to arm/disarm the airbags. Before I did the blend door actuator repair, I did the O ring fix internally on the EATC module because that was simple and cheap. However, I do still have another fix since hot or cold air is just blowing out of all the vents/defrost/floor regardless of which buttons are selected on the EATC module. Any suggestions on where to start next? I believe it to be vacuum related with those colored hoses that go to the vacuum motors. I know the hose harness and one of the vacuum motors have been discontinued form Ford.
Right on XTC, Thanks for the kind words. Check out the pinned comment on this video; ua-cam.com/video/VdE0GWuYgTU/v-deo.html - After that check out this video; ua-cam.com/video/O-UblzGhbDw/v-deo.html Take note of part about Vacuum Control Motors. - Chuck
Do you need to reset the fuses or anything after or just call it a day cause I just did this on my p7b 2011 and it runs but just making sure. Thanks again for your vid’s Chuck!!!
Yo Wences, Not yet. My 2004 Vic is still under the recall warranty, and it still hasn't broke yet. I do know someone who fixed theirs. He said he re-soldered the headlight relay to the circuit board inside the LCM. No video though. -Chuck
Great videos, looking at a '06 Marquis with 51k miles on it. This will be my first ford motor company been a chevy guy. What is the take on one being the main heavy use daily driver? Thank you community
Right on J, I currently own two Panther cars. They are the only cars I own. I got my ‘04 Vic back in 2009 with 90K Miles. It currently has 161K Miles. It’s been the most reliable, and has the lowest cost of ownership of any car I’ve ever owned in terms of maintenance & repairs. Everything is all original, (engine, transmission, rear end, etc.) I got my ‘10 Grand Marquis in 2018 with 65K Miles. It currently has 79K Miles. Same experience so far. As far as your question; “What is your take on one being the main heavy use daily driver?” Panther cars have the absolute worst gas mileage of any car I’ve ever owned. So keep that in mind. I think as long as you keep the mileage under 15K Miles per year, and do oil changes every 6 months, along with other fluid preventative maintenance it should be just fine. If you’re looking to buy a Panther car, and use it as a daily driver I offer two points of advise. 1.) Buy a 2003, or newer. Avoid 2002, or older. 2.) Based on my experience, however much you spend on buying the car, that’s the minimum you will spend on making necessary repairs, and bringing the maintenance up to date. Example: If you find a nice car for $5K, you can expect to pay another $5K fixing it up, and getting it road worthy. After that initial cost of $10K, you should have a car that will last 10-20 years. -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Wow Chuck, that is some awesome advise I really appreciate the type up. Looking forward to getting into this panther body family. I have a 97k1500 getting 10 mpg so I definitely understand the gas tag. Thank you brother......
Welp 2 years later it happen again this time no cold air and this week is gonna be mid to 80s and 90 on Fridays gonna do it myself sure hell no paying 500 & more. Damn ford for making this part cheap
So i just did the self test. Because no matter what settings my automatic unit in my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis was on it would blow hot. Ac wasn't working, The test fix this showed error code 24 now they see works flawlessly, so are you saying that this is just a temporary fix? That it will soon act up again?
Correct. Your Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator has an intermittent malfunction. Sometimes it will get stuck on a dead spot on the tiny little motor inside the actuator. When the problem first arises you can reset the actuator to get it to work a few more times, or months. Eventually it will completely fail, and no reset will restore operation. There are 3 ways to reset the actuator. 1.) Self Test 2.) With a Scan Tool. 3.) And this way; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html If you don’t have the time, or money to replace the actuator at least buy the part while it’s available. Parts will soon dry up for our Panther Cars. The OEM part number for your 1998 MGM is; Ford: XW7Z-19E616-BA Motorcraft: YH1766 I just checked and they are; Amazon $59 RockAuto $48 Walmart $75 O’Reilly $80 FordParts $86 -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform well everything's working fine but I did the test again because I'm retarded and going to keep doing it until I break it for good lol but no I just did the test again and it showed error code 25 this time instead of 24 so I did it three or four more times just now and I'll keep showing up 888, which from what you say means everything came out fine so I'm hoping that since the car sat for a long time maybe or is just old it just needs to be reset hopefully that fixed it but I might take your advice and go ahead and buy the part
All really good information Chuck. I can definitely refer back to this for future reference. Now make a video on how to remove the centre console on a marauder. Haha
This happened to me in November idk what was going on at first went to ford to find out which was a bad move honestly they changed my oil used 5w 30 instead 5-20 the oil was still good until this month idk if they even changed the filter but the car is running fine i didnt asked for that. I got the part from A1 autos. Ford was going to charge me 1,200 so I went to my brothers mechanic charged only 550 it has been running fine
Yo Captain, That quote from your local Ford Dealer to replace this part for $1,200 sounds about right. Before I dove into this, I called my local Ford Dealer, and they said they wanted to charge me; $200 for 1 hour of diagnosis. 3.2 hours of shop labor @ $230/Hr. to remove & replace the actuator. $62 for a new actuator. So the total cost was $998. Once I heard that amount, I was properly motivated to attempt a DIY repair for $42, (cost of OEM Motorcraft part from amazon). But if you paid $550, that’s still better than $1,200. Maybe next time you face one of these repair, take a look through my “Crown Vic Tip” Playlist to see if I have a video to help you fix the problem yourself. -Chuck
Chuck, thanks for doing this particular video. Your videos are the gold standard for work on panthers. I just had to replace the actuator on my 08 MGM and your video was immensely helpful in that. I watched several other videos, but no one matched the thoroughness or detail you provide. Please keep up the great work.
Hello. Great tutorial! I have an issue that I hope you can help me with. I have 2008 CVPI with manual climate control. It blows ice cold a/c but no heat when I bought it. Figured it was the BDA. Got the correct new OEM BDA and replaced it following your vid. It went pretty well, did it in about 2.5 hours. Drove it up to temp and discovered that I had a medium hot/cold temp regardless of where the temp control knob position was. Did it all again. This time I carefully opened the new BDA and set it to full heat. While I had sight of the BDA after reinstalling it, I tried adjusting the temp control knob. Nothing happened. I checked all fuses, wires, and connectors. All good. I then thought it might be a bad potentiometer in the temp control knob. So I put everything back together. Now have hot heat but no a/c. Ordered a used good condition temp control panel. Replaced it. I did hear a hiss when disconnecting the vacuum lines from the old panel. No change. Someone suggested it might be a vacuum problem. Checked lines, no leaks. Removed the black vacuum box on the firewall and rerouted the lines, as was done in a vid someone sent me. Still no change. I'm now thinking I got a bad new OEM BDA. What do you think could be happening here? Also, I followed the procedure for disarming/arming the airbag. The first time I had no airbag light. After the second time I now have the airbag light. Tried the entire procedure three times since then and checked the wires and connectors, all good. Still have the airbag light. Thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for any help.
@PanzerPlatform so I tried this, and nothing changed. I am now convinced I got a bad new OEM BDA. Winters coming so I'm just gonna leave on heat for now and mess with it later. Thanks for your help.
@@crezazle Connect a scan tool, and command the Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator to check if it responds correctly. You can get a FORScan device for $20.
Thanks for watching. What is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your car? Which ambient temp sensor, there are two? One in the passenger compartment in the dash next to the HVAC control head, and one under the hood near the front bumper. If the passenger compartment, and you have the EATC try this; ua-cam.com/video/1g4v4aHqIzI/v-deo.html Or you can check either one with a scan tool by looking at the live data. -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform ‘03 MGM LS. Ran the test a few times and everything reset. Blowing cold and hot when I select the corresponding button. Thank you so much Chuck!! I owe you. What’s your PayPal? Going to send you a thank you!
@@WFO. That's really generous of you. Thank you so much, my channel is not monetized, so I'm grateful for the donation. My PayPal is my email address; BudgetPantherPlatform@gmail.com The 024 error code definition is in the description box of the EATC video. If you have another Panther Car like a Crown Vic without the EATC you can do this to accomplish the same “reset / recalibration” ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Chuck, I’ll make a donation. So, realized that the door is now stuck on the cold air setting. Grrr. I’ll be following your video next weekend to do the job. Got a pal who is going to help me. Any renew recommendations since your video?
Outstanding, descriptive, grammatically accurate/correct language! This guy went to good schools and got a good education! When dealing with technical issues, matters, repairs - it matters! Thank You Sir!!
Very informative. Another I saw removed or loosened the steering column too. I don’t think I saw you do that. This way seemed not as ominous. Thanks for the detailed airbag disarming info. This was different than my only other experience with blend doors on my wife’s Taurus. The motor had a pinion and the rack attached to the blend door was missing several teeth. You could access the rack w/o removing anything thru an access hole in the heater box and seasonally I would help push the rack past the missing teeth and disconnect the servo motor once it accessed the heater core or the A/C evaporator. I never thought of replacing it as I considered the car a short timer to be soon scrapped. This does not even appear possible on a Panther.
Yo Charlie, Thanks for stopping in. In my particular malfunction it was winter, and when I turned on the heater it blew cold air. This might give you a better understanding of how the HVAC functions in our Panther Cars; ua-cam.com/video/O-UblzGhbDw/v-deo.html -Chuck
@@charlie_nolan If you want it fixed, what is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your Panther Car, and if you have the "basic 3 knobs" control head, or the electronic automatic temperature control head, (EATC).
@@PanzerPlatform I have a 2011 Crown Vic P7B with manual controls. I watched your video, I’m pretty sure the issue is with a lack of vacuum going to the control head, a lack of vacuum coming from it, or failure of one of the doors in the system that blocks certain vents. It’s a fairly rare occurrence though, I’m not going to do anything about it for a while.
@@charlie_nolan Fair enough. The next time it acts up perform this procedure; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html The PCM will recalibrate all electrical HVAC actuators by forcing them to go full sweep in both directions. If this procedure temporarily fixes the issue it usually means you have an electrical issue like a malfunctioning Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator. If the reset / re-calibration procedure has no effect on your HVAC issue it usually means the issue is vacuum related like a malfunctioned vacuum control motor, bent, broken, missing linkage to a vacuum control motor, or an air leak.
@@PanzerPlatform 2001 Ford Crown Victoria LX when I go to use the AC it still blows heat I don’t hear any noises but that’s it so far it went out randomly all I did was charge my battery and the AC haven’t been working every since. The codes 024 and 025 pops up when I do the self test.
@@bigswervo434 Thanks for the good description. Try this procedure to reset the system; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html After that try to use the A/C. And do the self test again to see if the error codes are still present. If that doesn’t work come back, and we’ll go from there. -Chuck
@@bigswervo434 OK, good work. 1.) Check all fuses & relays. 2.) Start the engine, and turn on the A/C. 3.) Open the hood, and watch the A/C compressor clutch. 4.) Check to see if the A/C compressor clutch engages, and disengages every few minutes. You want to hear, and see it clicking on/off. After you do that come on back for the next step. -Chuck
I drive a 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. Silly question perhaps but assuming I have to take my car someplace to fix my AC which only blows hot, would there be a way to have the mechanic LOCK the door to make sure it can't blow anything but cold? I live in Arizona, I never need heat and this is a very annoying expensive repair that likes to repeat.
Right on Rich, Thanks for stopping in. I thought about it, and there are a handful of videos on UA-cam showing how people deal with this situation if they can not afford the near $1,000 in labor charges to remove the dash to replace the Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator. Btw, the current price for the actuator is $45. Or, if they do not have the tools, time, garage work space, etc to fix it themselves. What they do is, go in through the glove box, and break off the actuator to provide access to the “ROD ARM” that opens / closes the door flap that controls the hot / cold air. Once they break off the actuator, they can now manually adjust the the door flap. Most guys have said they move it to the hot side, and lock it in place for winter. And then in 6 months they move it to the cold side, and lock it in place for summer. I thought about doing this myself, but then I realized if I go to the trouble of breaking off the actuator, why don’t I just replace it with a new one. And that’s why I made this video. Skip to 20:01 in the video to see what I’m talking about. -Chuck
I watched to the end Bravo camera work showing right where the item was located on your car
I got lucky. Lol
That was spur of the moment.
On point the best this was when you took the both parts out and check them and see the differences ( by probing ) that was detailed good write-up tech video VERY useful and insightful Chuck .
Right on BST,
Very smart of you to skip to the end of the video. Everything else is terribly boring. Lol
-Chuck
Amazing work your a whole bank of resource FREE to the public 🖤 thank you
Right on Ayas,
Thanks for clicking by.
-Chuck
good thorough procedure. good stuff chucky 👏 👍 👌
Right on Shaun,
Thanks for clicking by.
-Chuck
I like how you execute your problems right away. I need to take a page out of your book. 😂
What up D,
OCD to a fault.
I must fix things right away when they break.
-Chuck
Hello there chuck
I replaced mine in august 2020 because for the last 5 years or more I didn’t have any heater plus the a/c at night comes really cold because I cannot adjust the temp , i watched a video on UA-cam (in arabic) for replacing the dash , i toke off the steering column , air bags, radio , hvac, glove box ,every thing at the end there no room for the third screw 😁, i wish if i did this years ago thanks for the video there not so much on youtube talks about the dash and how removing it.
Right on Mr. Bahrain,
Geez, 5 years without HVAC Control.
I only lasted 5 days before I had to fix it. lol
-Chuck
This worked exactly as you said it would! It took me about 3 hours to do, but my AC works beautifully now and this saved me about $500 in labor from a mechanic!
Right on Andy,
Thanks for watching, and the good feedback.
Now you have $500 to spend on THE NEXT repair. lol
-Chuck
Hey Mr.Chuck, it's me again.
I have an 03 vic lx 260k miles (handed down from my father) and I think the blend door went out. I am getting full heat but no A/C, but it's winter-ish still in the east coast but we still get all 4 seasons here. I did the system check and during the test, I was getting a consistent "thump." I got code "124" which I think means the blend door failed. I can do simple maintenance like oil/ transmission fluid change, but never did something like this time consuming, kinda due to my inexperience and I'm kinda young. Do you suggest I give this a try, or should I just go through my local Ford Dealer? They asked about 400-600. Thanks for reading and hope you have a nice day.
- Raf
Right on Raf,
Thanks for watching.
The thump noise you describe may be the plastic gears inside the blend door actuator have stripped out.
Before yo go any further you may want to confirm the A/C compressor is clicking on/off when turned on.
$600 for Ford Dealer replacement sounds low. My local Ford Dealer quoted me $1,000.
Given the part only cost $45, I decided to try.
It's up to you, but if you have a location to work on your car like a garage, it might be worth it to spend 3-5 hours teaching yourself how to do this, in order to save $550-$950. It's not difficult, just time consuming, and requires patience.
-Chuck
Chuck- This procedure worked like a charm on my 08 Grand Marquis! Thank you for breaking down the sequence, especially pulling the three bolts on the top of the dash. I now have cold air and didn't have to pay a shop $550-$800.
Right on Mitch,
Thanks for watching, and the good feedback.
I don't think I've seen you around here before. Welcome to the club, prepare to be disappointed. Lol
-Chuck
I need some help with this but for ac. I bought a new actuator and it still didn’t work. All the control on the climate control works but when i change the temperature dial, the number change but the servo doesn’t move.
@@PanzerPlatform I figured it out. I had to plug in the actuator, then turn switch to run, and press automatic and floor def at the same time. It will do a diagnostic, and reset itself...And I think (don't quote me) press floor or vent to end diagnostic...
@@dmastudios4430
Right on,
Good job figuring it out.
-Chuck
Thank you Chuck, great information! Keep up the great work.
Right on Tiger,
Thanks for clicking by.
-Chuck
I'm going to have to tackle this on my '07 Grand Marquis here in the Spring. Stuck on full heat and even on bitter cold days, I find myself rolling down windows, lol.
Right on T,
I'd order the part now just in case it's out of stock in spring.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Already done. I went to the dealer and got it couple weeks back. It's in my glove box, right now. Dreading this repair, lol. But, I'm definitely not gonna spend the $1,000 the dealer quoted me to replace it.
@@TheTerminator310
$1K for heat, and A/C repair.
That's a tough pill to swallow.
@@PanzerPlatformEspecially when the part itself is just $60. Saving $940 is certainly plenty of incentive for me to do it myself, lol.
Remember those days when I owned my Marauder. I encountered the same problem. I took it to a specialist and 30 mins to break down and 30 mins to put it back together. A good friend of mine so he only charged me for the hour.
Right on SC,
Man, what a nice guy.
At that labor rate, you're practically making money. Lol
-Chuck
This is intense! That's why I'll pay a guy like you to do that for me, when the time comes :)
@@VitaliyKofman
All problems in life can be solved with either "time or money".
Earn money to pay a mechanic, or spend your time and teach yourself to fix it.
Or, a little of both.
Life is all about have options.
-Dhali Llama
Do you have any parts leftover? ;)
Har-dee-har.
Only the old actuator. Lol
-Chuck
I'm going down to the vic to say a prayer, to prevent the actuator from breaking.
lol
Did you have to break the back loop on the new actuator to put it in?
Right on Mr. G
Thanks for watching.
No.
I took a pair of dikes, and cut a small section of the "loop" for the back bolt on the actuator the same width as the bolt.
Then I loosened the back bolt just a few threads, and slid the new actuator into place.
Then install the other two bolts, and lastly snug down the last back bolt.
-Chuck
Thanks, Chuck.
I've been watching a while now, but this is my first time commenting.
I don't own a panther platform car right now, but I'm in the market for one to replace my 2001 Buick Regal. I came across a 2004 Grand Marquis with 114000 miles that will be in an estate auction at the end of the week. I went to check it out and most of it was good. The body had no flaws and there was no rust anywhere (which is saying a lot in Ohio!). The engine ran great and the transmission shifted fine. But there was one problem - the overdrive would not turn on. Pressing the switch did nothing. I'm a very amateur mechanic, so I wanted to ask your opinion if you think this might be an uncomplicated problem that could be solved, or more trouble than I would want to take on? If you were at the auction, how much might you bid on it?
Please keep up with the great videos!
Right on Alan
Thanks for watching,
There’s about 100 possible reasons why the car will not shift into 4th gear (overdrive).
There’s no way to know until a thorough diagnosis is performed.
It could be something as simple as a blown fuse, low fluid level, malfunctioned shift solenoid, malfunctioned coolant temp sensor, dirty transmission filter & fluid. All of these can be performed without removing the transmission.
Next it could be something more complex like a broken internal snap ring, or malfunctioned valve body.
Worse case scenario, a rebuilt transmissions cost $1,500 - $2,000, and about $1,500 - $2,000 labor for installation. So possibly as much as $4,000 total.
With the information you’ve given me I would personally bid no more than $500.
If I won the car for $500, I’d be willing to spend another to $500 to fix the transmission problem.
If the transmission repairs exceed $500, I would “park” the car and just sit on it, and maybe replace the transmission at a later date, or use it as a “parts” car.
Either way there are too many unknowns, and too much risk to bid over $500.
Sorry, I’m not much help.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Thanks, Chuck. That's some great feedback and I really appreciate it.
My god this makes taking out bulbs on the headlights to be a piece of cake....
Hey you made it.
This is why shops charge $1,100.
$100 Part.
$1,000 Labor.
-Chuck
Just an update to my original comment. I got around to replacing my blend door on my 2007 Grand Marquis a few months ago. I decided to pull a little test on it simply by unplugging and re-plugging it back in and it's been working perfect ever since, lol. So when it does finally go bad, I've got a new blend door sitting in the glovebox. Hopefully, it will keep working!
Right on Termi,
Thanks for the update.
-Chuck
Does anyone have a suggestion on if the Blend Door Actuator may be closing improperly? I can get heating and A/C on my vehicle without any problems but when I have the climate control off entirely I still get a small amount of hot air coming out of the vents
Right on Jose,
Thanks for the great question.
What is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your car?
This might help; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis
@@JGameAndWatch
Right on,
Try this to check for HVAC error codes; ua-cam.com/video/1g4v4aHqIzI/v-deo.html
-
It will also perform a self-calibration, and may free up a sticking door.
You may also have an obstruction, like a linkage rod malfunction, or maybe foreign debris preventing full swing operation of the door.
Come back with a progress update for more help.
-Chuck
This is a great tech tip very detailed
Right on Chris,
Thanks for clicking by.
-Chuck
Hi Chuck #PanzerPlatform , thank you for the video. My 2011 LX was stuck on AC with no heat. With your video, I was able to do the repair with confidence this past weekend. I have the EATC. Yours also seems to be the only video that mentions how to arm/disarm the airbags. Before I did the blend door actuator repair, I did the O ring fix internally on the EATC module because that was simple and cheap. However, I do still have another fix since hot or cold air is just blowing out of all the vents/defrost/floor regardless of which buttons are selected on the EATC module. Any suggestions on where to start next? I believe it to be vacuum related with those colored hoses that go to the vacuum motors. I know the hose harness and one of the vacuum motors have been discontinued form Ford.
Right on XTC,
Thanks for the kind words.
Check out the pinned comment on this video; ua-cam.com/video/VdE0GWuYgTU/v-deo.html
-
After that check out this video; ua-cam.com/video/O-UblzGhbDw/v-deo.html
Take note of part about Vacuum Control Motors.
-
Chuck
Do you need to reset the fuses or anything after or just call it a day cause I just did this on my p7b 2011 and it runs but just making sure. Thanks again for your vid’s Chuck!!!
Yo Filip,
No need to do anything else.
-Chuck
Have you ever repair a lcm?
Yo Wences,
Not yet.
My 2004 Vic is still under the recall warranty, and it still hasn't broke yet.
I do know someone who fixed theirs.
He said he re-soldered the headlight relay to the circuit board inside the LCM. No video though.
-Chuck
Great videos, looking at a '06 Marquis with 51k miles on it. This will be my first ford motor company been a chevy guy. What is the take on one being the main heavy use daily driver? Thank you community
Right on J,
I currently own two Panther cars. They are the only cars I own.
I got my ‘04 Vic back in 2009 with 90K Miles.
It currently has 161K Miles.
It’s been the most reliable, and has the lowest cost of ownership of any car I’ve ever owned in terms of maintenance & repairs. Everything is all original, (engine, transmission, rear end, etc.)
I got my ‘10 Grand Marquis in 2018 with 65K Miles.
It currently has 79K Miles.
Same experience so far.
As far as your question;
“What is your take on one being the main heavy use daily driver?”
Panther cars have the absolute worst gas mileage of any car I’ve ever owned.
So keep that in mind.
I think as long as you keep the mileage under 15K Miles per year, and do oil changes every 6 months, along with other fluid preventative maintenance it should be just fine.
If you’re looking to buy a Panther car, and use it as a daily driver I offer two points of advise.
1.) Buy a 2003, or newer. Avoid 2002, or older.
2.) Based on my experience, however much you spend on buying the car, that’s the minimum you will spend on making necessary repairs, and bringing the maintenance up to date.
Example: If you find a nice car for $5K, you can expect to pay another $5K fixing it up, and getting it road worthy.
After that initial cost of $10K, you should have a car that will last 10-20 years.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Wow Chuck, that is some awesome advise I really appreciate the type up. Looking forward to getting into this panther body family. I have a 97k1500 getting 10 mpg so I definitely understand the gas tag. Thank you brother......
@@PanzerPlatform
Why should you avoid pre-2003?
@@Clamjammer
1992-2002 The steering & suspension components are not great.
hey chuck, nicely done! is that a part to be found in a CVPI?
Right on Gemini,
Long time, no see.
Yes, every Panther Car has a blend door actuator.
The part number is in the description box.
-Chuck
Welp 2 years later it happen again this time no cold air and this week is gonna be mid to 80s and 90 on Fridays gonna do it myself sure hell no paying 500 & more. Damn ford for making this part cheap
Try this first just to make sure;
ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
and this;
ua-cam.com/video/1g4v4aHqIzI/v-deo.html
Just came over from the new video. Going to try to solve the issue tomorrow morning. Thanks Chuck
Right on Q,
I apologize for the extra work.
-Chuck
So i just did the self test. Because no matter what settings my automatic unit in my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis was on it would blow hot. Ac wasn't working, The test fix this showed error code 24 now they see works flawlessly, so are you saying that this is just a temporary fix? That it will soon act up again?
Correct.
Your Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator has an intermittent malfunction.
Sometimes it will get stuck on a dead spot on the tiny little motor inside the actuator.
When the problem first arises you can reset the actuator to get it to work a few more times, or months.
Eventually it will completely fail, and no reset will restore operation.
There are 3 ways to reset the actuator.
1.) Self Test
2.) With a Scan Tool.
3.) And this way; ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
If you don’t have the time, or money to replace the actuator at least buy the part while it’s available.
Parts will soon dry up for our Panther Cars.
The OEM part number for your 1998 MGM is;
Ford: XW7Z-19E616-BA
Motorcraft: YH1766
I just checked and they are;
Amazon $59
RockAuto $48
Walmart $75
O’Reilly $80
FordParts $86
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform well everything's working fine but I did the test again because I'm retarded and going to keep doing it until I break it for good lol but no I just did the test again and it showed error code 25 this time instead of 24 so I did it three or four more times just now and I'll keep showing up 888, which from what you say means everything came out fine so I'm hoping that since the car sat for a long time maybe or is just old it just needs to be reset hopefully that fixed it but I might take your advice and go ahead and buy the part
Congratulations you just joined the club. I joined with my CVPI (a bit different, same PITA). Now I'm waiting to reach Level 2 with my Grand Marquis.
Right on Apathy,
Thanks for having me.
-Chuck
It's my turn to replace the blend door actuator... Thanks for the detailed explanation.
🕺🕺🕺
Right on Jerry,
Thanks for stopping in.
-Chuck
All really good information Chuck. I can definitely refer back to this for future reference. Now make a video on how to remove the centre console on a marauder. Haha
Har-dee-har.
Thanks for the click.
This happened to me in November idk what was going on at first went to ford to find out which was a bad move honestly they changed my oil used 5w 30 instead 5-20 the oil was still good until this month idk if they even changed the filter but the car is running fine i didnt asked for that. I got the part from A1 autos. Ford was going to charge me 1,200 so I went to my brothers mechanic charged only 550 it has been running fine
Yo Captain,
That quote from your local Ford Dealer to replace this part for $1,200 sounds about right.
Before I dove into this, I called my local Ford Dealer, and they said they wanted to charge me;
$200 for 1 hour of diagnosis.
3.2 hours of shop labor @ $230/Hr. to remove & replace the actuator.
$62 for a new actuator.
So the total cost was $998.
Once I heard that amount, I was properly motivated to attempt a DIY repair for $42, (cost of OEM Motorcraft part from amazon).
But if you paid $550, that’s still better than $1,200.
Maybe next time you face one of these repair, take a look through my “Crown Vic Tip” Playlist to see if I have a video to help you fix the problem yourself.
-Chuck
Thank you! This was very helpful!
Hey you made it over. lol
Right on Eric.
Have you ever heard of a $40 part costing $1,100 in labor to install? lol
-Chuck
Chuck, thanks for doing this particular video. Your videos are the gold standard for work on panthers. I just had to replace the actuator on my 08 MGM and your video was immensely helpful in that. I watched several other videos, but no one matched the thoroughness or detail you provide. Please keep up the great work.
Yo Alan,
Thanks for stopping in, and the kind words.
-Chuck
Hello. Great tutorial! I have an issue that I hope you can help me with.
I have 2008 CVPI with manual climate control. It blows ice cold a/c but no heat when I bought it. Figured it was the BDA. Got the correct new OEM BDA and replaced it following your vid. It went pretty well, did it in about 2.5 hours. Drove it up to temp and discovered that I had a medium hot/cold temp regardless of where the temp control knob position was. Did it all again. This time I carefully opened the new BDA and set it to full heat. While I had sight of the BDA after reinstalling it, I tried adjusting the temp control knob. Nothing happened. I checked all fuses, wires, and connectors. All good. I then thought it might be a bad potentiometer in the temp control knob. So I put everything back together. Now have hot heat but no a/c. Ordered a used good condition temp control panel. Replaced it. I did hear a hiss when disconnecting the vacuum lines from the old panel. No change. Someone suggested it might be a vacuum problem. Checked lines, no leaks. Removed the black vacuum box on the firewall and rerouted the lines, as was done in a vid someone sent me. Still no change. I'm now thinking I got a bad new OEM BDA. What do you think could be happening here?
Also, I followed the procedure for disarming/arming the airbag. The first time I had no airbag light. After the second time I now have the airbag light. Tried the entire procedure three times since then and checked the wires and connectors, all good. Still have the airbag light. Thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hello,
I would try this first;
ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
-Chuck
Will try this. Thanks!
@PanzerPlatform so I tried this, and nothing changed. I am now convinced I got a bad new OEM BDA. Winters coming so I'm just gonna leave on heat for now and mess with it later. Thanks for your help.
@@crezazle
Connect a scan tool, and command the Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator to check if it responds correctly.
You can get a FORScan device for $20.
@@PanzerPlatformok, I will. Thanks for all the advice.
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for stopping by.
-Chuck
Wow really well made video thank you.
Right on Robert,
Thanks for watching, and the kind words.
-Chuck
Five star ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Video. Mine went out today. Only blows super hot.
How do I check the ambient temperature sensor?
Thanks for watching.
What is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your car?
Which ambient temp sensor, there are two?
One in the passenger compartment in the dash next to the HVAC control head, and one under the hood near the front bumper.
If the passenger compartment, and you have the EATC try this;
ua-cam.com/video/1g4v4aHqIzI/v-deo.html
Or you can check either one with a scan tool by looking at the live data.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform MGM 2003 LS. Mint condition with just 67k miles. I’m running the test now. Shows code 024. What’s all that mean?
@@PanzerPlatform ‘03 MGM LS. Ran the test a few times and everything reset. Blowing cold and hot when I select the corresponding button. Thank you so much Chuck!! I owe you. What’s your PayPal? Going to send you a thank you!
@@WFO.
That's really generous of you.
Thank you so much, my channel is not monetized, so I'm grateful for the donation.
My PayPal is my email address;
BudgetPantherPlatform@gmail.com
The 024 error code definition is in the description box of the EATC video.
If you have another Panther Car like a Crown Vic without the EATC you can do this to accomplish the same “reset / recalibration”
ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Chuck, I’ll make a donation. So, realized that the door is now stuck on the cold air setting. Grrr. I’ll be following your video next weekend to do the job. Got a pal who is going to help me. Any renew recommendations since your video?
Outstanding, descriptive, grammatically accurate/correct language! This guy went to good schools and got a good education! When dealing with technical issues, matters, repairs - it matters! Thank You Sir!!
Yo AJ,
Thanks for stopping in, and the kind words. I'll have you know I flunked out of community college, twice. Lol
-Chuck
Very informative. Another I saw removed or loosened the steering column too. I don’t think I saw you do that. This way seemed not as ominous. Thanks for the detailed airbag disarming info. This was different than my only other experience with blend doors on my wife’s Taurus. The motor had a pinion and the rack attached to the blend door was missing several teeth. You could access the rack w/o removing anything thru an access hole in the heater box and seasonally I would help push the rack past the missing teeth and disconnect the servo motor once it accessed the heater core or the A/C evaporator. I never thought of replacing it as I considered the car a short timer to be soon scrapped. This does not even appear possible on a Panther.
Yo Walter,
Thanks for stopping in, and the good feedback.
-Chuck
good
Yo Mr. Gareeb,
Thanks for stopping in, and the good feedback.
-Chuck
Wait so was there no air coming out of the vents beforehand or was it the wrong temperature?
Yo Charlie,
Thanks for stopping in.
In my particular malfunction it was winter, and when I turned on the heater it blew cold air.
This might give you a better understanding of how the HVAC functions in our Panther Cars;
ua-cam.com/video/O-UblzGhbDw/v-deo.html
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform Ok, thank you. I have a periodic issue with no air coming from the vents, I think its a lack of vacuum somewhere
@@charlie_nolan
If you want it fixed, what is the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your Panther Car, and if you have the "basic 3 knobs" control head, or the electronic automatic temperature control head, (EATC).
@@PanzerPlatform I have a 2011 Crown Vic P7B with manual controls. I watched your video, I’m pretty sure the issue is with a lack of vacuum going to the control head, a lack of vacuum coming from it, or failure of one of the doors in the system that blocks certain vents. It’s a fairly rare occurrence though, I’m not going to do anything about it for a while.
@@charlie_nolan
Fair enough.
The next time it acts up perform this procedure;
ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
The PCM will recalibrate all electrical HVAC actuators by forcing them to go full sweep in both directions. If this procedure temporarily fixes the issue it usually means you have an electrical issue like a malfunctioning Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator.
If the reset / re-calibration procedure has no effect on your HVAC issue it usually means the issue is vacuum related like a malfunctioned vacuum control motor, bent, broken, missing linkage to a vacuum control motor, or an air leak.
What if it says 24 and 25? What else could it be I got 2 codes
Hello,
Are you currently experiencing a malfunction.
Can you describe the problem?
Please include the YEAR / MAKE / MODEL of your car.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform 2001 Ford Crown Victoria LX when I go to use the AC it still blows heat I don’t hear any noises but that’s it so far it went out randomly all I did was charge my battery and the AC haven’t been working every since. The codes 024 and 025 pops up when I do the self test.
@@bigswervo434
Thanks for the good description.
Try this procedure to reset the system;
ua-cam.com/video/9CxejeIbGYw/v-deo.html
After that try to use the A/C.
And do the self test again to see if the error codes are still present.
If that doesn’t work come back, and we’ll go from there.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform I tried it, the error codes are still there
@@bigswervo434
OK, good work.
1.) Check all fuses & relays.
2.) Start the engine, and turn on the A/C.
3.) Open the hood, and watch the A/C compressor clutch.
4.) Check to see if the A/C compressor clutch engages, and disengages every few minutes.
You want to hear, and see it clicking on/off.
After you do that come on back for the next step.
-Chuck
Chuck is doing God's work out here!!! Invaluable information!
What up Mo' Money,
Do you feel like fixing yours now? Lol
-Chuck
I feel like I'm ok with it coming out the defrost vent a lil bit longer!
Thanks for posting this, a problem most panther owners will face
Right on Robert,
Thanks for clicking by.
-Chuck
I drive a 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. Silly question perhaps but assuming I have to take my car someplace to fix my AC which only blows hot, would there be a way to have the mechanic LOCK the door to make sure it can't blow anything but cold?
I live in Arizona, I never need heat and this is a very annoying expensive repair that likes to repeat.
Right on Rich,
Thanks for stopping in.
I thought about it, and there are a handful of videos on UA-cam showing how people deal with this situation if they can not afford the near $1,000 in labor charges to remove the dash to replace the Temperature Control Blend Door Actuator. Btw, the current price for the actuator is $45.
Or, if they do not have the tools, time, garage work space, etc to fix it themselves.
What they do is, go in through the glove box, and break off the actuator to provide access to the “ROD ARM” that opens / closes the door flap that controls the hot / cold air.
Once they break off the actuator, they can now manually adjust the the door flap.
Most guys have said they move it to the hot side, and lock it in place for winter.
And then in 6 months they move it to the cold side, and lock it in place for summer.
I thought about doing this myself, but then I realized if I go to the trouble of breaking off the actuator, why don’t I just replace it with a new one. And that’s why I made this video.
Skip to 20:01 in the video to see what I’m talking about.
-Chuck
Great troubleshooting skills.
Right on PP,
I just read the good book to y'all. lol
-Chuck