Having spent my years in the electrical trade, been using these for over 30 yrs. They're great!! Don't know if you noticed the four evenly marked vertical lines around the outside of the outer cup, but if you draw bisecting vertical and horizontal lines for your original punch mark, you can have an oversized drill hole and use the marks (lined up with your bisecting lines) to center your KO Punch exactly over the original mark. Have fun with it!!
Thank you my friend, I did see them, but it wasn't clear what they were for, so now I know ! Hope the weather there isn't too bad, roll on summer aye, ride safe, D&Px
Signs of Spring all around, and even got the bike out for a first ride yesterday. Still below freezing at night, but we're on our way! Cheers to you both!
We had those back in the 70s Del. My Dad had a contract converting Jeep Cherokee dashboards from left to right hand drive. Had to cut the new instrument panel, fill old apertures (weld in, fill and undercoat. I wasn't good enough then for top coat). I used to cut out the new switch holes with those (they do square ones too). Work a treat and last a long time too. I brew my own craft beer and used one to convert a large stainless stock pot into a digitally controlled brew kettle. Use a bit of lubricant on it to make it last longer.
Yep, I won First Prize at a Camra event in Eynsham in the 80s. I have some more useful mech/electromech tools/tips you might like to review, if you are interested just get in touch. I'm not intending to start my own channel on this topic, might help others. :)
Thanks Colin, thats very kind of you, im pretty lined up with tools to review for now, and have just tarted back on the fighter build again today.. but ill bare it in mind for sure.. thank you so much.. Have a great week.. Del.
Plumbers use that on reversible double sinks as well to cut the hole for the faucet. Cuts commercial grade stainless without distortion. Very strong and make me question why impact sockets cost so much.
Awesome tools, used some on a pneumatic pump to cut a one inch hole for the jig for a square punch block, on train ticket machine , contactless reader installs (have a look next time your at a station) they cut like hot knife through butter, but the first pilots are a bugger. 👍
FYI......Electrician here and thanks for the shout out...anyway use a 1/4" regular drill bit for your pilot hole then use the unibit bit to get your diameter size for the punch...saves on the unibit wear and tear and they last a lot longer and regular bits are cheap..also that type of punch isn't any good on thicker metal or stainless steel but they do make a "hole buster" that does the job:)
QMax cutters have been on my must buy tools list for sooo long. Really popular in the classic car restoration/ kit car world, especially when working with alloy bodies. So much better than hole cutters and the like. I bought a dimple die set ages ago to use with these. Stakesys sell a wider range of sizes and also a thrust race to make cutting with the larger cutters easier.
Sure thing mate, I was amazed they go out to 50mm, which is prefect for all kinds of things in car restoration aye?? And if you're gonna dimple the hole, they become o good strengthening tool too... see you in a couple of weeks mate!
Me neither mate , I actually went to Recon to ee if they had a good deal on some step drills that go out to 30mm as they're usually no more than about 1", and they showed me these!
Couldn't you put a radius on the non-cutting side of the tool so that it "saddled" the tube, would possibly help with the distortion ? And drill the thread to allow the use of a high tensile nut and bolt to help the bolt bending problem ? I know you can cut the gauge you need to .... but if you needed to cut thicker stuff occasionally.
Good plan that.. the radius would need to match the tube obviously, but it would then ensure zero distortion.. good thinking.. i dont thing is needs a tensile nut.. the die itself has a heavy duty thread.. but the tool is actually only recommended up to 16 gauge, so anything more than that is over its design perimeters... i was just seeing how far i could push it.. and it was impressive that it stood up to so much punishment...
Those knockout punches are also made to make "D" shaped and double "D" (chassis holes) shaped holes. There's nothing handier when fabricating custom dashboards on cars, or any other project where you need a hole for a rotary switch or other similar component.
Wow, Dell! I was betting these were not going to work... surprised 😮 in a big way! Thanks for a proper laboratory experiment... have a great week ahead! 🏍🏍👍
Great to hear from you Gary, surprised myself too, specially with hte 3mm stuff.. they are only designed to cut up to 1.6mm, so they did proud for themselves aye... have a good week sir, and take carer. Del.
They look like a smaller version of the tool you get from IKEA to cut the tap hole in stainless steel sinks (almost impossible to cut through neatly with a hole saw). Still got mine from my plumbing days. Bloody brilliant and so easy to use.
What if you use the tool to only cut half-way thru, then reverse and finish it from the other side? Would that even out the slight distortion caused by cutting through from only on one side? In other words, when the points have cut through part-way, and the width of the cut they have made equals the length of the metal remaining to be cut, if possible, reverse the tool and finish from the other side? Hopefully that makes sense.
It does make sense Jeff, not sure if it would work cos I haven't tried... they are only rated for 16 gauge steel, and they breeze through that easily, I was simply trying to break the tool to breaking point and it still worked, so I guess if you were stuck, then your method could just do the trick !
Del I have used these for many years I mean from the 70's and they do do a good gob and over the years have accumulated a fair range of the from 16mm to 50mm. On good quality punches (I'm not saying these are rubbish) continuous use on harder metals will destroy the threads quicker than destroying the cutter. These are supposed to be pulled through with a hydraulic ram and foot operated pump meaning your not turning the thread to use it, it will also cut through the 3mm like cheese, granted unless you have hundreds of holes to punch your not going to buy a ram and pump. but they did a good job. Where I will disagree with you is on the use of hole saws, again with good quality saws and mandril and used properly i.e. with a good cutting compound and drilling square on they will cut what I think is a cleaner hole without any burr or distortion, I have used these many times also. Problem is with saw cutters people tend to wiggle them around then one side cuts through and it grabs where if it is square on this will not happen, as for curved surfaces again if used square on it should cut through in at least 2 places at once again without wiggling it will cut clean, don't be impatient and let the cutter do the job.
Wise advice all the way there buddy, certainly on keeping things square, I've only ever had success with hole saws in a pillar drill, they never worked for me in a hand drill... someone posted a link further down on here to some fine tooth sheet metal hole saws, which I couldn't find in the regular tool market, places like Machine Mart only have the coarse ones... I found these awesome for plastic, and even think wood like MDF, they were great for laminate flooring, but you're right, once you get near metal, if they are held at the tiniest angle, the big teeth catch and throw you across the garage (well not quite!)... I get your point on drawing these cutters through hydraulically and with enough use for one, I guess you could justify that, but I'll probably need to cut half a dozen holes a year at best... I learnt a cool tip from the guys at Recon, as they're an electrical supplier, and that was when the electricians use them for cutting conduit holes in fuse boxes, they cut off an 8mm allen key, stick the long bit in a drill, then spin the puncehs through, just using a cordless drill, but obviously that's probably working on 22guage steel, or plastic... Good to hear from you mate, take care...
Covering Electrical and mechanical engineering for many years retrofitting CNC machines. When manufacturing and fitting the CNC control panel there were maybe 20 holes or more to be cut and they ranged in sizes therefore I was able to justify the hydraulic ram. The hole saws were a finer tooth compared to what you have on your bench made by Starrett up to 5". Cordless drills were in their infancy then and to buy a decent one like Elu was the dog's and cost hundreds. Battery technology has done wonders to them in the last 10 years. Cutting compound is also important and of the many I used Trefolex was by far the best, Im still using a tin from many years ago but if its still the same its like a soft butter in texture and back in my conduit days mainly used for threading conduit, no other engineering cutting compound came near it and I still use it when turning steel and I have a shelf full of cutting compounds and sprays. Don't get me wrong Im not knocking the hole punches they do a great job but if used properly In my opinion you can get a cleaner hole with hole saws with no distortion.
Hi del and penny another great vid but del I've a huge problem My back lights ha e failed I've tried to remove tha luggage rack and passenger rear handles nothing will remove the bolt not even a impact wrench or gun please a help
Yeah commonly used for sheet metal work they go through 1 and 1.2 mm like butter as yuo go up to 3mm theres a hydraulic version but for most sheet applications these are a great tool ...ever tried hole cutter on ali diamond plate ? I have, what a bloody mess !!! Great review Del top job Peace and Love to you both ☮❤👍
Now you mention it, I can imagine the mess on diamond plate... or chequer plate, or whatever it's called here... thought of you today, went under the bridge on the M25 that says 'Give Peas a Chance'... peas and loaf Brother...!
These cutters are excellent. However, when drilling thin metal sheets ALWAYS hold the metal in a vice or with clamps and NEVER with your hand. If the drill jams in the workpiece it will be spun around so fast you risk serious injury. I know this as it happened to me!
Are you an electrician? Most I know would use a hole cutter, less worried about finish, more about speed. All holes will be bushed/glanded anyway and the burrs help the lock ring actually lock so you can tighten down good with just one set of five holes.
You can also get tools that will cut square holes and round holes with a beaded edge. Admittedly they are more expensive but if you need such a hole they could be of of use. Try a search for a company called Stakesys they list these type tools as well as the ones your using in your demo.
Hi, that's a nice smart tool, seems to work as a cutting press because the sharp side doesn't turn at all. Nice job Dell, Enjoy the sunny day. Thanks, Gus
Hey Gus, exactly that mate, the 3 points in the die bite in and puncture immediately, was amazed it went through the 3mm, I guess with a longer bar, it wold have gone thorough without so much grunting and puffing lol !
Morning Delboy, always enjoy your videos but step drills and core drills can easily be sharpened. ive done it many times. You need to grind down the flute to remove material from the front of the cutting edge. Granted it reduces the overall diameter of the tool a tiny bit, but it prolongs the life of the tool . Looking forward to seeing the finished bike mate. All the best
Hi Andy, well I never knew that mate, you learn something every day... both tool companies I spoke to said they can't be sharpened, like drill bits, but I guess they wanna sell you new ones lol... it makes total logic sense of course, the flutes on my step drills are about 3-5mm across, so what tool do you use to grind them??
Hi Paul.. i know, its great to dabble in other disciplines and trades, it gives you an insight to what other people do and broadens your own horizons aye..
Stick a rattle gun on it Del! I reckon you could chew through loads of stuff, what with the sheer amount of short, sharp, shocks from the gun. Would be cool to see if it works.
Nice one Del, that's something else I'll have to get now!! Hah. Have the perfect use for them already, where I was using step drills before. Nice to hear Penny as well. Awrabest to you both, Dutch. X
Hey Dutch, they're pretty good and amazing for the money, and I always find step drills drag and catch, getting locked up on burrs, meaing you often cut a messy cut at the end of it...! PP is posting your parcel tomorrow - you know what it is !
Man, they have to be the meanest cookie cutters I ever did see! Useful pieces of kit though Del; as new, would they be sharp enough to cut 'custom' washers from copper, leather, rubber, sheet marzipan etc.? - I've spent many a happy hour with all kinds of daft scissors, Stanley blades etc., trying to make at least ONE hand cut rubber washer look 'round' enough to pass muster, 'tis most fiddlesome & I usually end up biting things : )
Hi LD, obviously they distort the piece they cut out, but if it was leather or rubber, that wouldn't be an issue... you could punch the 10mm hole in for the bolt and i reckon certainly from thick rubber, they would make great rubber washers... they aren't sharp like a knife, but they are an exact 90degree edge, or possibly, a little over 90, and they do incise nicely against the outer cup... thinking on what you're saying, you could probably make tap washers from them too !
Been using them for years, in the Plumbing world we call them a chassis punch and the weakest part is always the thread on the bolt they just get distorted and its hard to find a new bolt as they are made from some kind of hard steel don"t try a normal steel bolt you will just be disappointed .
Yes, you go to the dealer and buy a new one lol Sorry not being sarky, they are just a disposal item mate, sounds like you've worn yours out, good on yer!
Yeah, i thought of that while i was doing the video.. and they make them up to 50mm too, the exact size of the belly pan holes.. Doh..! lol but not i have them i can use them for the tail i have started on this week..
Morning delboy Hello from st lucia You can get a cheep hydrolic kit that will make your life much easier £50 6 sizes you need cutters last longer and you cannot bend the bolts.
Having spent my years in the electrical trade, been using these for over 30 yrs. They're great!! Don't know if you noticed the four evenly marked vertical lines around the outside of the outer cup, but if you draw bisecting vertical and horizontal lines for your original punch mark, you can have an oversized drill hole and use the marks (lined up with your bisecting lines) to center your KO Punch exactly over the original mark. Have fun with it!!
Thank you my friend, I did see them, but it wasn't clear what they were for, so now I know ! Hope the weather there isn't too bad, roll on summer aye, ride safe, D&Px
Signs of Spring all around, and even got the bike out for a first ride yesterday. Still below freezing at night, but we're on our way! Cheers to you both!
We had those back in the 70s Del. My Dad had a contract converting Jeep Cherokee dashboards from left to right hand drive. Had to cut the new instrument panel, fill old apertures (weld in, fill and undercoat. I wasn't good enough then for top coat). I used to cut out the new switch holes with those (they do square ones too). Work a treat and last a long time too.
I brew my own craft beer and used one to convert a large stainless stock pot into a digitally controlled brew kettle. Use a bit of lubricant on it to make it last longer.
Hi Colin, thanks for those tips on the cutting oil, that makes sense for sure.. and you brew your own beer... AWESOME.. !
Yep, I won First Prize at a Camra event in Eynsham in the 80s. I have some more useful mech/electromech tools/tips you might like to review, if you are interested just get in touch. I'm not intending to start my own channel on this topic, might help others. :)
Thanks Colin, thats very kind of you, im pretty lined up with tools to review for now, and have just tarted back on the fighter build again today.. but ill bare it in mind for sure.. thank you so much.. Have a great week..
Del.
The issue with stainless is that it “work hardens”, methods that keep the frictional heat low work best, such as these punches.
Plumbers use that on reversible double sinks as well to cut the hole for the faucet. Cuts commercial grade stainless without distortion. Very strong and make me question why impact sockets cost so much.
Thanks for the demo. That's a tool I'll add to my box.
Awesome tools, used some on a pneumatic pump to cut a one inch hole for the jig for a square punch block, on train ticket machine , contactless reader installs (have a look next time your at a station) they cut like hot knife through butter, but the first pilots are a bugger. 👍
FYI......Electrician here and thanks for the shout out...anyway use a 1/4" regular drill bit for your pilot hole then use the unibit bit to get your diameter size for the punch...saves on the unibit wear and tear and they last a lot longer and regular bits are cheap..also that type of punch isn't any good on thicker metal or stainless steel but they do make a "hole buster" that does the job:)
Thanks for your input Kosh.. much appreciated.
@@Moonfleet41 Your welcome.
QMax cutters have been on my must buy tools list for sooo long. Really popular in the classic car restoration/ kit car world, especially when working with alloy bodies. So much better than hole cutters and the like. I bought a dimple die set ages ago to use with these. Stakesys sell a wider range of sizes and also a thrust race to make cutting with the larger cutters easier.
Sure thing mate, I was amazed they go out to 50mm, which is prefect for all kinds of things in car restoration aye?? And if you're gonna dimple the hole, they become o good strengthening tool too... see you in a couple of weeks mate!
A great tool test, I didn't even know these tools existed.
Me neither mate , I actually went to Recon to ee if they had a good deal on some step drills that go out to 30mm as they're usually no more than about 1", and they showed me these!
thanks for the demo
Couldn't you put a radius on the non-cutting side of the tool so that it "saddled" the tube, would possibly help with the distortion ? And drill the thread to allow the use of a high tensile nut and bolt to help the bolt bending problem ? I know you can cut the gauge you need to .... but if you needed to cut thicker stuff occasionally.
Good plan that.. the radius would need to match the tube obviously, but it would then ensure zero distortion.. good thinking.. i dont thing is needs a tensile nut.. the die itself has a heavy duty thread.. but the tool is actually only recommended up to 16 gauge, so anything more than that is over its design perimeters... i was just seeing how far i could push it.. and it was impressive that it stood up to so much punishment...
Those knockout punches are also made to make "D" shaped and double "D" (chassis holes) shaped holes. There's nothing handier when fabricating custom dashboards on cars, or any other project where you need a hole for a rotary switch or other similar component.
Wow, Dell! I was betting these were not going to work... surprised 😮 in a big way! Thanks for a proper laboratory experiment... have a great week ahead! 🏍🏍👍
Great to hear from you Gary, surprised myself too, specially with hte 3mm stuff.. they are only designed to cut up to 1.6mm, so they did proud for themselves aye... have a good week sir, and take carer. Del.
Moonfleet41 yep... looking forward to seeing them in action on the bike build
U know what Del. You convinced me when you ran your finger around the hole. That is the difference . Very impressed with that. Nice tool to have.
Sure thing Andy, it truly is smooth enough to run your finger round the inside, no burr and no roughness, just a clean smooth hole ...
A great tool for making washers during a custom build..
Too right my friend, a man can never have enough washers lol !
They look like a smaller version of the tool you get from IKEA to cut the tap hole in stainless steel sinks (almost impossible to cut through neatly with a hole saw). Still got mine from my plumbing days. Bloody brilliant and so easy to use.
Sure thing Roy, never seen them before, they're gonna save my life when it comes to the fighter build on the tail unit I'm just starting now !
What if you use the tool to only cut half-way thru, then reverse and finish it from the other side? Would that even out the slight distortion caused by cutting through from only on one side? In other words, when the points have cut through part-way, and the width of the cut they have made equals the length of the metal remaining to be cut, if possible, reverse the tool and finish from the other side? Hopefully that makes sense.
It does make sense Jeff, not sure if it would work cos I haven't tried... they are only rated for 16 gauge steel, and they breeze through that easily, I was simply trying to break the tool to breaking point and it still worked, so I guess if you were stuck, then your method could just do the trick !
You've got to stop these tool reviews Del, I want one now and I don't even do any fab work! 😂😂👍
Cheers Jim, they are so much fun to use, you'll be punching holes all over the place lol !
Del I have used these for many years I mean from the 70's and they do do a good gob and over the years have accumulated a fair range of the from 16mm to 50mm. On good quality punches (I'm not saying these are rubbish) continuous use on harder metals will destroy the threads quicker than destroying the cutter.
These are supposed to be pulled through with a hydraulic ram and foot operated pump meaning your not turning the thread to use it, it will also cut through the 3mm like cheese, granted unless you have hundreds of holes to punch your not going to buy a ram and pump. but they did a good job.
Where I will disagree with you is on the use of hole saws, again with good quality saws and mandril and used properly i.e. with a good cutting compound and drilling square on they will cut what I think is a cleaner hole without any burr or distortion, I have used these many times also.
Problem is with saw cutters people tend to wiggle them around then one side cuts through and it grabs where if it is square on this will not happen, as for curved surfaces again if used square on it should cut through in at least 2 places at once again without wiggling it will cut clean, don't be impatient and let the cutter do the job.
Wise advice all the way there buddy, certainly on keeping things square, I've only ever had success with hole saws in a pillar drill, they never worked for me in a hand drill... someone posted a link further down on here to some fine tooth sheet metal hole saws, which I couldn't find in the regular tool market, places like Machine Mart only have the coarse ones... I found these awesome for plastic, and even think wood like MDF, they were great for laminate flooring, but you're right, once you get near metal, if they are held at the tiniest angle, the big teeth catch and throw you across the garage (well not quite!)... I get your point on drawing these cutters through hydraulically and with enough use for one, I guess you could justify that, but I'll probably need to cut half a dozen holes a year at best...
I learnt a cool tip from the guys at Recon, as they're an electrical supplier, and that was when the electricians use them for cutting conduit holes in fuse boxes, they cut off an 8mm allen key, stick the long bit in a drill, then spin the puncehs through, just using a cordless drill, but obviously that's probably working on 22guage steel, or plastic... Good to hear from you mate, take care...
Covering Electrical and mechanical engineering for many years retrofitting CNC machines.
When manufacturing and fitting the CNC control panel there were maybe 20 holes or more to be cut and they ranged in sizes therefore I was able to justify the hydraulic ram.
The hole saws were a finer tooth compared to what you have on your bench made by Starrett up to 5". Cordless drills were in their infancy then and to buy a decent one like Elu was the dog's and cost hundreds. Battery technology has done wonders to them in the last 10 years.
Cutting compound is also important and of the many I used Trefolex was by far the best, Im still using a tin from many years ago but if its still the same its like a soft butter in texture and back in my conduit days mainly used for threading conduit, no other engineering cutting compound came near it and I still use it when turning steel and I have a shelf full of cutting compounds and sprays.
Don't get me wrong Im not knocking the hole punches they do a great job but if used properly In my opinion you can get a cleaner hole with hole saws with no distortion.
I never had a knock out punch before ....misses says I’ve deserved one a few times though😂😂👊🤪
Hi del and penny another great vid but del I've a huge problem
My back lights ha e failed I've tried to remove tha luggage rack and passenger rear handles nothing will remove the bolt not even a impact wrench or gun please a help
Hi Bobby, what's the fastener you're having problems with, is it a bolt?? allen screw?? is it seized?? can you not get a tool on it?? What's up??
Wooo. they are like circular scissors. I guess those cutting nuts are hardened steel.
Yeah commonly used for sheet metal work they go through 1 and 1.2 mm like butter as yuo go up to 3mm theres a hydraulic version but for most sheet applications these are a great tool ...ever tried hole cutter on ali diamond plate ? I have, what a bloody mess !!!
Great review Del top job Peace and Love to you both ☮❤👍
Now you mention it, I can imagine the mess on diamond plate... or chequer plate, or whatever it's called here... thought of you today, went under the bridge on the M25 that says 'Give Peas a Chance'... peas and loaf Brother...!
These cutters are excellent. However, when drilling thin metal sheets ALWAYS hold the metal in a vice or with clamps and NEVER with your hand. If the drill jams in the workpiece it will be spun around so fast you risk serious injury. I know this as it happened to me!
dell im an electrition and have used them electric box is mad out of thick metal
Are you an electrician? Most I know would use a hole cutter, less worried about finish, more about speed. All holes will be bushed/glanded anyway and the burrs help the lock ring actually lock so you can tighten down good with just one set of five holes.
InterestCasual only ratty electricians think a holesaw is the fastest way to make a hole and not worry about the finish of the whole
You can also get tools that will cut square holes and round holes with a beaded edge. Admittedly they are more expensive but if you need such a hole they could be of of use. Try a search for a company called Stakesys they list these type tools as well as the ones your using in your demo.
Cheers buddy, I've seen the ones for cutting square holes, such simple thinking and so handy when you need it - thanks for the link buddy!
Hi, that's a nice smart tool, seems to work as a cutting press because the sharp side doesn't turn at all. Nice job Dell, Enjoy the sunny day. Thanks, Gus
Hey Gus, exactly that mate, the 3 points in the die bite in and puncture immediately, was amazed it went through the 3mm, I guess with a longer bar, it wold have gone thorough without so much grunting and puffing lol !
Good tool and a good test buddy, enjoyed that, hi Penny too, regards Stu 🤘🤘
Ayup Stu, great to hear from you buddy, hope to catch up with you this year !
Morning Delboy, always enjoy your videos but step drills and core drills can easily be sharpened. ive done it many times. You need to grind down the flute to remove material from the front of the cutting edge. Granted it reduces the overall diameter of the tool a tiny bit, but it prolongs the life of the tool . Looking forward to seeing the finished bike mate. All the best
Hi Andy, well I never knew that mate, you learn something every day... both tool companies I spoke to said they can't be sharpened, like drill bits, but I guess they wanna sell you new ones lol... it makes total logic sense of course, the flutes on my step drills are about 3-5mm across, so what tool do you use to grind them??
I use the angle grinder.
Great video 👌🏼
Bonus product is the wast material can be used as wave washers!
Sure thing buddy, and someone else said a pretty cool thing, if you could find a 5mm thick slab of rubber, you could cut some tap washers from it !
That's awesome.... makes me want to go out and start working on sheet metal but that's not my trade
🤔🤔🤔
Hi Paul.. i know, its great to dabble in other disciplines and trades, it gives you an insight to what other people do and broadens your own horizons aye..
Nice bit of kit Del, I didn't even know they existed. Now I want some MORE tools! LOL. Cheers
Me neither mate, I love finding new handy little things to get round problems!
Stick a rattle gun on it Del! I reckon you could chew through loads of stuff, what with the sheer amount of short, sharp, shocks from the gun. Would be cool to see if it works.
I recon you;re dead right mate.. a windy gun would make light work of it..
i hi Del,ppx,I'v had these tools for ever they still work well n I use some oil cutting thick stuff. have fun.
Thanks Sean, great tip on the cutting oil !
Nice one Del, that's something else I'll have to get now!! Hah. Have the perfect use for them already, where I was using step drills before. Nice to hear Penny as well. Awrabest to you both, Dutch. X
Hey Dutch, they're pretty good and amazing for the money, and I always find step drills drag and catch, getting locked up on burrs, meaing you often cut a messy cut at the end of it...! PP is posting your parcel tomorrow - you know what it is !
Moonfleet41 Evening mate, Yeah step drills can be messy alright!! Nice one, Will keep my eyes peeled for it, Awrabest to you both. X.😉👍
Oh, the waste. Beat that flat and you have yourself a nice free washer haven't you 😊
Man, they have to be the meanest cookie cutters I ever did see!
Useful pieces of kit though Del; as new, would they be sharp enough to cut 'custom' washers from copper, leather, rubber, sheet marzipan etc.? - I've spent many a happy hour with all kinds of daft scissors, Stanley blades etc., trying to make at least ONE hand cut rubber washer look 'round' enough to pass muster, 'tis most fiddlesome & I usually end up biting things : )
Hi LD, obviously they distort the piece they cut out, but if it was leather or rubber, that wouldn't be an issue... you could punch the 10mm hole in for the bolt and i reckon certainly from thick rubber, they would make great rubber washers... they aren't sharp like a knife, but they are an exact 90degree edge, or possibly, a little over 90, and they do incise nicely against the outer cup... thinking on what you're saying, you could probably make tap washers from them too !
As the joker said about batman, where does he get those wonderful toys 😂. ... ah Recon 😉 neat lil gadget ya got there Del
Been using them for years, in the Plumbing world we call them a chassis punch and the weakest part is always the thread on the bolt they just get distorted and its hard to find a new bolt as they are made from some kind of hard steel don"t try a normal steel bolt you will just be disappointed .
Thanks Andrew, great feedback, much appreciate your input, cheers!
(p) As others have said, I now need some of these and I have no real use for them. But it's still a cool tool so it's not wassted money.
Ha ha, exactly..
Another tool i need to get : )
If it was me i would hold the metal with the vice thats right there
(P) They did an excellent job! Decent bits of kit 😀
Cheers buddy !
I have some of these, Anyone know how to sharpen these?
Yes, you go to the dealer and buy a new one lol Sorry not being sarky, they are just a disposal item mate, sounds like you've worn yours out, good on yer!
Jesus i NEED THIS in Brazil but i DON'T KNOW HIS NAME HERE
www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=sheet%20metal%20punch&description=true
Next time try using some CUTTING fluid .......
Great tool for making washers 🤣🤣👍🏼
Cool little tool, nice find
Cheers Brother, started on the tail today, feeling better about it already!
[p] Says it all Del . Made in the uk.
Oh yeah !
I bet an impact drill or wrench would make it a breeze.
Yeah, it'd slip through with a windy gun no problem..
I NEED MAKE A BIG HOLE LIKE 76MM I CANT FIND ANY TOOL FOR THIS
In what material !
@@Moonfleet41 Stainless steel
@@AnissTawfik What gauge mate ?
@@Moonfleet41 i have a plug with diameter 76,2mm
so i need to make the hole with ⌀ 77mm or 76.5
thickness 2mm
@@AnissTawfik For that thickness, i would drill a hole 10mm, then use a jigsaw to cut close to the line, then hand file it out to exact size !
cool
I thought " Well at 6'2" I have a knock out punch !"
Wrong type of punch though :(
Useless fact- IKEA supplies this tool with its kitchens to cut a hole in the sink for the taps.
Paul Rossiter problem is, it's only mixer tap sized. Still bloody good tool, still have mine from years ago.. 😁
Wow didn't know what, and they sell meatballs to die for as well !
Great vid. These cutters would have come in handy for the belly pan stealth vents on the fighter build #40
Yeah, i thought of that while i was doing the video.. and they make them up to 50mm too, the exact size of the belly pan holes.. Doh..! lol but not i have them i can use them for the tail i have started on this week..
Morning delboy
Hello from st lucia
You can get a cheep hydrolic kit that will make your life much easier £50 6 sizes you need cutters last longer and you cannot bend the bolts.
Thank you Simon, appreciate that, I think if I were punching that many holes, I would invest in a hydraulic one!