Brian! I love these testing videos. Incredibly helpful. Since I’m only looking to do one off individual dials adding just a custom logo, I think my only cost effective option will be waterslide decals. I’ve already watched your other decal videos more than once, trying to figure out if I’ll be able to do it without screwing up the existing dial. Thanks again!
well i have several other videos coming next but at some point i’ll do the adding a small decal to an exiting completed and finished dial to see what happens. glad it’s helping
@@WatchComplications Actually, I thought this video already addresses the decal test on dials with existing elements like applied indices, lume, etc. By testing “existing dials”, do you mean applying decals to aftermarket ready-to-use “finished” dials? I’m looking at adding a black logo under the 12 on a salmon colored dial with applied indices. We’ll see if I feel like enough of an expert after watching your vids to do it. I might try supercharging my knowledge by staying at a Holiday Inn Express while watching your vids. 👍
@@WatchComplications Perfect! May I suggest a matte, non-textured salmon dial with metallic gold no-lume applied indices for your test? With various colored decals? 👍😉
Just discovered your channel, thanks for all of the testing and candid info. I am just getting into watch building and was wondering where you get your electroformed nickel stickers from.
Another great vid. I have bought some sunnyscopa decal paper for inkjet printers and am eager to get started. But I'm not a tech savvy person so was wondering if you knew, would an "ink tank" printer (which apparently mine is according to a google search) be more or less the same as an injet printer for this purpose?
I’m wondering... most of these water slide decal papers seem to come with instructions suggesting only using a hair dryer for heat. With the combination of the micro-set/micro-sol, do you think that it’s still necessary to place the dial into the oven? Maybe a hair dryer would be sufficient enough. I’m asking because I am wondering if the minimized heat from the hair dryer vs. the oven would leave less residue around the decal. Very curious as to what you think about that. This experiment was super helpful/interesting, as is all of your other content. Thank you!
Good question, but I'd have to test to know for sure. I'll give it a go with a hair dryer in a future video just to see if the residue is as much of an issue with a dryer versus the oven. Either way heat is necessary for a good transfer, from what I have tested so far.
OK so what I've noticed about guilloché dials is that even the Swiss do not try to apply words or graphics directly to guilloché texturing. They'll put a flat spot on it and apply their word mark to that. As clunky as that looks, I have to conclude that the Swiss believe it can't be done. HOWEVER, Orient doesn't use a flat spot, their text and graphics (see the Polaris) *appear* to be applied directly to the texture. But it can't be. So it took me way too long to figure this out, but what they must have done is to put a thin, transparent sheet of...something...over the pattern and apply their logos to that to give a cleaner appearance. Simple but effective.
Good point and I probably should have mentioned this in context. I think the name for the flat surfaces attached for this purpose is “batches.” I have a variety of them, as they came with some of my logo orders for the electroformed ones. Those logos are not meant to go on rigid surfaces either. Same is true for printing generally. Sometimes using them can look ok, but not always. Transparent ones could also be useful. Some dials may also have enough of a clear coat or a coating is applied in such a way that it’s basically flat over the surface.
hi, very useful video, do you may do me a dial? I have a omega white dial, I want to do it black, subdial at 6, if yes, how much do you belive it will cost? or if you know a watch maker who can do it...I has being looking since 2016... thanks, best regards
Hello. Sorry, I typically make complete watches with my branding, not just dials. Also with it being Omega, I'm not sure I would mess with changing the color, as the whole thing would have to be redone.
Brian! I love these testing videos. Incredibly helpful. Since I’m only looking to do one off individual dials adding just a custom logo, I think my only cost effective option will be waterslide decals. I’ve already watched your other decal videos more than once, trying to figure out if I’ll be able to do it without screwing up the existing dial. Thanks again!
well i have several other videos coming next but at some point i’ll do the adding a small decal to an exiting completed and finished dial to see what happens. glad it’s helping
@@WatchComplications Actually, I thought this video already addresses the decal test on dials with existing elements like applied indices, lume, etc. By testing “existing dials”, do you mean applying decals to aftermarket ready-to-use “finished” dials? I’m looking at adding a black logo under the 12 on a salmon colored dial with applied indices. We’ll see if I feel like enough of an expert after watching your vids to do it. I might try supercharging my knowledge by staying at a Holiday Inn Express while watching your vids. 👍
yeah that’s exactly what i mean. applying them to otherwise ready to go dials, just adding a bit of text or logo or such.
@@WatchComplications Perfect! May I suggest a matte, non-textured salmon dial with metallic gold no-lume applied indices for your test? With various colored decals? 👍😉
😂
Just discovered your channel, thanks for all of the testing and candid info. I am just getting into watch building and was wondering where you get your electroformed nickel stickers from.
I bulk ordered some time back from a company called egoLogo that is no longer in business. You might try something like TinyLogo which is on facebook.
@@WatchComplications Thanks for pointing me there, couldn't find them on FB but they are on eBay...
Another great vid. I have bought some sunnyscopa decal paper for inkjet printers and am eager to get started. But I'm not a tech savvy person so was wondering if you knew, would an "ink tank" printer (which apparently mine is according to a google search) be more or less the same as an injet printer for this purpose?
I'm not sure, but I imagine it would be much like a standard inkjet in terms of the printing. Just will have to test and see how it goes!
@@WatchComplications Unfortunately Ink seems to run and bleed when the decal is put in water. So I guess I need a different printer.
wild! yeah, then you'll have to use an inkjet for the inkjet paper. or the laser paper with a laser printer.
I’m wondering... most of these water slide decal papers seem to come with instructions suggesting only using a hair dryer for heat. With the combination of the micro-set/micro-sol, do you think that it’s still necessary to place the dial into the oven? Maybe a hair dryer would be sufficient enough. I’m asking because I am wondering if the minimized heat from the hair dryer vs. the oven would leave less residue around the decal. Very curious as to what you think about that. This experiment was super helpful/interesting, as is all of your other content. Thank you!
Good question, but I'd have to test to know for sure. I'll give it a go with a hair dryer in a future video just to see if the residue is as much of an issue with a dryer versus the oven. Either way heat is necessary for a good transfer, from what I have tested so far.
@@WatchComplications 🤞 would be exciting if it worked! Lol.
OK so what I've noticed about guilloché dials is that even the Swiss do not try to apply words or graphics directly to guilloché texturing. They'll put a flat spot on it and apply their word mark to that. As clunky as that looks, I have to conclude that the Swiss believe it can't be done.
HOWEVER, Orient doesn't use a flat spot, their text and graphics (see the Polaris) *appear* to be applied directly to the texture. But it can't be. So it took me way too long to figure this out, but what they must have done is to put a thin, transparent sheet of...something...over the pattern and apply their logos to that to give a cleaner appearance. Simple but effective.
Good point and I probably should have mentioned this in context. I think the name for the flat surfaces attached for this purpose is “batches.” I have a variety of them, as they came with some of my logo orders for the electroformed ones. Those logos are not meant to go on rigid surfaces either. Same is true for printing generally. Sometimes using them can look ok, but not always. Transparent ones could also be useful. Some dials may also have enough of a clear coat or a coating is applied in such a way that it’s basically flat over the surface.
Out of curiosity, do you have the specific dimensions of that Norbal dial? I love the shape/look of it and I want make one for myself.
20.68mm length x 22.5mm width
@@WatchComplications Thank you boss.
Show de bola 👏👏👏👏👏
thanks :)
Where can I buy the logo of the dial
the logo of which dial? please be more specific.
hi, very useful video, do you may do me a dial? I have a omega white dial, I want to do it black, subdial at 6, if yes, how much do you belive it will cost? or if you know a watch maker who can do it...I has being looking since 2016... thanks, best regards
Hello. Sorry, I typically make complete watches with my branding, not just dials. Also with it being Omega, I'm not sure I would mess with changing the color, as the whole thing would have to be redone.
@@WatchComplications ok, thanks, best regards
that textured dial is considered a guilloche dial. Just wanted to give you a heads up on that....Thank!
aware, but thanks for commenting so readers have a reminder :) I do talk about/mention guilloche in a variety of other vids on the channel.