I didn't know you could use straight copper as brazing material and as much wire as I've stripped in my day, I can't believe I have never seen the back-o-the-pliers technique. Two new tools for my tool box. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks Ron. I use this process for quick, one use, fixtures that will most likely be thrown away. I hope you and John are out of the fire area. See you in Santa Cruz. Jere
Hello Vern. Thanks for the kind comment. I have been doing this stuff for a long time and have the opportunity to learn from some very knowledgeable people. Thanks for watching. Jere
Thanx Jere, back in the day we used coat hangers to braze with. Tough to do that today with all the plastics. And my son is an Electrician, so copper wire is very available for me. These are the things that make life in the shop easier, keep the valuable information coming and thanx for sharing.
This is exactly what I was looking for, I'm making lamps with copper (sheets) and didn't want to weld the decorative add-ons with anything that looked out of place like brass ,the tensile strength is never a factor , all I wanted was to replace the bright silvery color of lead, this method of using regular copper wire is the best solution. thank you for making this video.
Hello ddis: No two batches of copper are the same. If you want to get an exact color match you need to cut thin strips of the parent material and use that as the filler material. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Darcy: My pile of scrap is much larger than most. Finding out how not to do something is an important part of the journey. Thanks for watching. Jere
Use your bead roller to smash the insulation It does a fast job to strip longer wires for recycling. bare copper gets about 4 times as much as insulated wire
OMG! Where have you been my whole life? Does this work with a simple MAP gas torch? Not sure if i've ever seen a pencil tip for one. I have a fine copper to copper project coming up and your video just Smashed me right between the eyes! I can not believe this has been right under my nose for all these years.
Hello James. I have never used a MAP gas torch for this type of work so I can't give you an answer. I like having a small flame that I can control where the copper is flowing. I hope you have subscribed. Jere
Hello Geeper: Yes. I saw this first when watching a HenRob torch demo back in the 80s. I use this method for putting together lots of non structural items. Thanks for watching. Jere
Would using flux paste make this type of work better or worse? I'm new to brazing, so I don't know the tricks yet. However, I'm an electrical lineman, and i have an abundance of scrap copper wire from work, in many different sizes. Pure copper, both stranded and solid. So if I can get the hang of it, I have a bunch of free brazing rods! lol
Hello Logan: I am using a Hen-Rob torch and it requires no flux. You will have to try this process with the torch you have. If you have an abundance of copper wire, I would make belt buckles from the wire. Look up E.A. Chase and you will see what I am talking about. Thanks for watching. Jere
At last a guy who know how to make a good viewing video beside his good subject! I m gonna try it asap! (However the main cost in brazing is the 2 gas!)
Hi Michele. For this 18ga material I was using a .5 tip on a Hen Rob torch. The tip size is determined by the thickest of the materials to be joined. Be sure to subscribe. Jere
Great tip, thanks for sharing. Often making jigs and temporary bracing this would come in handy especially with the price of brass. And I have a buddy who's an electrician! Thanks again
Thanks for the reply James. The joint really looks nice when you run the torch over it the second time. I have found myself using the copper for one time use jigs and fixtures also. Thanks again Jere
great video, just found your site . great idea and responses. if you were to use it as a filler on a car , what surface prep prior to painting is recommended? i am told that when you braze a panel patch that extra steps to clean the surface are required. thanks for the info
Hello Sheri. The extra prep when brazing is caused by the introduction of flux. With this method there is no flux used so no extra prep. You must be sure that air can not get to the front or the back of the copper because of corrosion. Primer and paint will take care of this problem. Thanks for watching. Jere
That's Cool, never knew that , I used to use Tide laundry powder soap for brazing flux before they took out the Phosphates, GREAT VIDEO , thanks William
Hello James. I got the flu just after teaching a class in San Jose with Gene Winfield at the end of December. I hope to get my ducks in a row by the middle of January and get out a few more videos. Thanks for asking and I hope your have success this coming year. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Thanks for responding, hope the worst is over, the flu can run from mild to wild. A little shnapps might help! Just a thought to help you sleep. Ill be looking forward to your return.
This is a good tip for a temporary joint but don't expect it to last long, I've read it will corrode over time. There are hundreds of different brazing rods, you need one that suits the particular situation.
Hello Kahu. That is a good point. I just added a drain plug to a c6 automatic transmission and I chose to use silicon bronze to effect the joint. Learning proper joinery is not learned over night. Thanks for the comment and watching. Jere
I often wondered if this would work.... Excellent Video! For bigger parts this would work nice... Bronze melts at 1650° and Copper at 1984°.... I use Borax like they used to.. But thin metal I'll stick to Brass.
Hi Old School: This was purely for information. Just something to put in the tool box. I always rely on the project at hand to inform me of the process to be used. Thanks for the comments. Jere PS. After I finish the Jeep I can Get back to my 53 F100.
Not what I was looking for here, using copper wire to weld steel to steel. I was looking for welding copper rod to copper bar using copper wire as filler rod. I saw an old electrician do it one time in my life on a big starter motor but I don't remember whether he used a flux or not with oxy-acetylene torch but the finished weld looked great. I have also seen copper wire welded to steel plate using yellow brass brazing rod using the white flux coated rod. That worked good too if you don't burn the copper up..
Hello pipedreams: The process I used in this video was brazing. The parent material did not come to a melting point. I have "welded" copper before but it takes a more precise technique. Controlling the heat dissipation is the key to a successful weld. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Scott. The last time I had any success in "welding" pot metal was back in1972. It was from a 1932 Plymouth grill. Everything since then has been a bust. The problem is the different amount's of Zink uset by different casting houses. Aluminum melts at between 890 and 1220F (depending on it's alloying) and Zink melts at 785F. When trying to weld pot metal the Zink starts spalling out before the aluminum reaches it's melting point and the Zink runs out onto the table. There is a product called "Alladin 123" and they claim you can "braze" pot metal with it. You have to use O/A torch and get the part hot enough to melt the rod while not melting the pot metal. I tried it once and did not receive a satisfactory result. With the limited amount of call for this process I have not pursued becoming more proficient at it. Thanks for watching and your question. Jere
Nutz? Nope. On the same vane, I've used SS & Alum mig wire for TIG filler when I've needed thing filler. rods. I wonder how silicon bronze filler rod would work? I dig Oxy Acetylene, its very TIG like (or visa verse; aka intuitive, and vastly versatile)
Hello Hobo. I just used some silicon bronze yesterday on a radiator hold down that I made. It flows out very nicely and is a stronger attachment. I use MIG wire all the time for welding body panels and exhaust headers. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Gary: Just remember that this is NOT a structural bond. I use it for joints on camera mounts and to obtain a nice fillet in a "T" joint. Thanks for the comment. Jere
Hi Chopper: I am using a Hen-Rob torch which burns very clean. I don't know which type of torch you are using. Do a few test pieces to see if you get good results before making an attempt on your tank. If the results are good, center punch the pin hole just a little to open it up so the copper can flow down into the hole. Thanks for the question. Jere
I am using a Hen - Rob torch. It burns much cleaner than your standard torch. Try it with the torch that you have and see what results you get. It may surprise you. Jere
Hello Bobby: No it would be incompatable with aluminum. Depending on the surrounding area a repair could be effected by welding or riveting a patch. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello David: That is what they do in the plating shops. Look at some of the chrome plating and chrome restoration videos here on You Tube. Copper is the base for the nickle. Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
I thought it should work as Nomex and acid copper have to be close to being the same. It would be cheaper than buying silicon bronze. But you always have to ask when it comes to plating. How does it handle pot metal?
Hi Lino: I don't think I would use Copper. It's quite soft and may not accept the expansion and contraction that a engine goes through. Several years ago I used a block sealer on my tractor and it is still working. This may have been the first time I had read and followed the instructions on the bottle. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Irene. The material is 18ga steel. I use this method quite a bit for making a nice fillet where two pieces come together in a "T" joint. Thanks for watching. Jere
How do you think this work on cast iron, like the skirt below the cylinder and the pan on an engine? Trying to avoid cracking due to challenges with heat distribution and cool down. Thanks in advance!
Jere Kirkpatrick Hello Jere, Understand about wear and pressure. I’m talking about a completely overhauled 1927 Model T engine that kicked an improperly tightened rod end out the side of the block, well below the cylinder down to, and including the pan lip. About 10 pieces with total area about 10 square inches. Hope you have a chance to consider this extra detail. I’ve seen you weld the old gas pump crack with cast iron rod but find the prospect of trying to fit 10 pieces one at a time seems more doable with you copper rod technique. I’ve done a lot of soldering and it just seems like it would work. No pressure inside the crankcase and nothing wears on this “skirt” area of the block. Kills me to think of junking the block. Thanks in advance for pondering this dilemma.
Hello @@rickolson9011: Back in the 80's I repaired an exploded water pump by fitting all the pieces back together one by one, making sure of a good tight fit, and MIG welded just a spot to hold them in place (no more than a spot). After everything was in place I preheated it (on a fire out back) and brazed everything together. After the brazing was done I put it back on the fire and didn't touch it until the next morning. Then I did the final grinding and filing of the mating surfaces. Hope you have success with your project. Jere
Thanks Jere! Sounds like a very good hybrid approach. It is rewarding to recover from catastrophe! I enjoy your video content and the quality of presentation. Be well!!
Hello NM: By using the Hen-Rob torch Flux is not needed. Flux is used for "floating" impurities to the surface and cleaning the area around the bond. Simplicity of the joint was the purpose for this exercise. Thanks for watching and an excellent question. Jere
Thanks very much for the response. I have just discovered your channel and it seems you have given out with a great deal of valuable experience there. Your answer seems to be conditioned on the use of the Henrob torch in this instance. I cut, gas weld, and braze with conventional a/o and p/o torches and have never used a Henrob. Is there a technical side I’m missing?
@@NMranchhand Hi NM: The Hen-Rob is a much cleaner burning torch. Watch this video and you will understand why. Jere ua-cam.com/video/9Yydtw9KZ-M/v-deo.html
Hi Peaky: Copper melts at 1,984 deg. F. Steel melts at 2,700 prox. (depending on carbon content). I use a Hen-Rob torch and have not used any other process. Give it a try. With the large flame from the propane torch you will not have much control of the area being heated. Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I shall give it a go, see if I can get it to melt, I use oxy acetylene for my lead work but not sure if the regulators go high enough, I'll give them a go as well as I like the idea of the bare copper wire. And yes I have subscribed, Keep up the great vids.
Hi again Bubba. I didn't see this last night. Sorry. Be sure to subscribe for I will be making the video's on how to make the parts from the patterns in the cone layout video. Jere
Hello Dan. Be sure to give the copper a broad foot print. The two materials (steel and copper) have very different expansion rates. Allow the edges of the copper to "feather" out all the way around allowing the copper to move more freely. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Troy. Steel is red hot at about 1,000 degrees. It must be above this temperature before the copper will flow out. Try putting a drop of copper on the steel and continue holding the flame to it until the pool of copper starts to flow out. Then you will have a visual of the correct temp. for making the joint. Thanks for watching. Jere
If you worry about everything you'll die from stress.... Look at him.... Is he dying? Nope.. And them old guys worked with raw Lead instead of Bondo... They also had Mercury Thermometers.
@@OldSkoolF Lol If Jere (hello sir,beautiful videos! ) had a few sun rays coming into the shop from some holes in the walls or roof (!!!) when he is sanding off the rust on some parts, like the cast iron helmet of the 1930s gas pump, he would *run* out of the shop (i would,it does not kill me,but it also does not make me stronger);....... and only come back later; one learns to hate iron rust dust, after one *sees* it,and some install a fan or exhaust fan; i use mercury thermometers; we provide care for some old folks here (in Portugal,after 20 years in NJ); they still sell them (old stock,i guess)in bunches of 10 for 10 euros; no electronics and no pos batteries to go dead on you; the mercury qty is almost infinitesimal.
@@josepeixoto3384 I remember being 10 and DA'ing the side of my Uncles 50 Merc... He would take us to McDonalds and to Coffee with the Guys after We finished for the day... I remember blowing my nose and rainbow colored boogers coming out... I'm 55 now and stronger and healthier then most my age... He always used to say "stress is what kills a Man". Since then I don't worry about anything... My Uncle Lived to 83 and only died cause he was to stubborn to go see a doctor. (a cold turned pneumonia). I finished the 53 Glasstop He was building.. He had it almost done.. Just had to do the wiring... I wish I would have kept that Car... But like He said.... "Never fall in love with anything"...
Hi Brad. Be sure to subscribe because I will soon be trying the same thing using a Victor torch along with the Hen Rob. I will be using both torches and try copper, brass, and silicon. Both with and without flux. You wont want to miss this one. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Ben: You are correct. I used the term "Romex" so that fellows would know that copper wire was readily available to them at their local hardware store. Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
I didn't know you could use straight copper as brazing material and as much wire as I've stripped in my day, I can't believe I have never seen the back-o-the-pliers technique. Two new tools for my tool box. Thank you, Sir!
Hello B.
Thanks for watching. If you subscribe you will see a lot of tricks I've learned over the years.
Jere
Been an industrial maintenance tech for 25 years. This is a new one on me. Jere's always got interesting stuff to teach.
Hi T.C.
Old dogs - new tricks.
Jere
Jere - what a great idea! I'm amazed that you can make such a nice brazed joint with solid copper rod, and NO FLUX!
Thanks Ron.
I use this process for quick, one use, fixtures that will most likely be thrown away.
I hope you and John are out of the fire area.
See you in Santa Cruz. Jere
This is as Master at work and I just learned from watching him....My thanks to the gent that made it....I also liked the background music...lol
Hello Vern.
Thanks for the kind comment. I have been doing this stuff for a long time and have the opportunity to learn from some very knowledgeable people.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Nice work. Your hands are very steady for a young feller.
Gas welding requires a steady hand. It's like second nature to me.
Jere
Thanx Jere, back in the day we used coat hangers to braze with. Tough to do that today with all the plastics. And my son is an Electrician, so copper wire is very available for me. These are the things that make life in the shop easier, keep the valuable information coming and thanx for sharing.
Thanks for watching Lone.
I will be putting out more videos in the future.
Jere
Well I didn't use coathangers to braze with but to use as welding rod and I still do sometimes.
"coat hanger" brazing is actually gas welding...
Nice, I have never tried copper. It worked great.
Hi Randy - It makes a nice fillet after welding. Saves a lot of grinding. Really finishes of a piece before paint or plating. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 It seems to wet very nicely.
This is exactly what I was looking for, I'm making lamps with copper (sheets) and didn't want to weld the decorative add-ons with anything that looked out of place like brass ,the tensile strength is never a factor , all I wanted was to replace the bright silvery color of lead, this method of using regular copper wire is the best solution. thank you for making this video.
Hello ddis:
No two batches of copper are the same. If you want to get an exact color match you need to cut thin strips of the parent material and use that as the filler material.
Thanks for watching. Jere
How did it work out?
You are a magician when it comes to metal.and a cheep way to do braising without the cost.
Hello Darcy:
My pile of scrap is much larger than most. Finding out how not to do something is an important part of the journey.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Your Thinking outside the box,,That was not on my radar to do but brilliant outcome and cheep too ,when money is tight.
Use your bead roller to smash the insulation It does a fast job to strip longer wires for recycling. bare copper gets about 4 times as much as insulated wire
Hello Tim.
Thanks.That is a great idea. Jere
OMG! Where have you been my whole life? Does this work with a simple MAP gas torch? Not sure if i've ever seen a pencil tip for one.
I have a fine copper to copper project coming up and your video just Smashed me right between the eyes! I can not believe this has been right under my nose for all these years.
Hello James.
I have never used a MAP gas torch for this type of work so I can't give you an answer. I like having a small flame that I can control where the copper is flowing.
I hope you have subscribed. Jere
Good one Jere, I'll have to try that... I have used Sil-foss as brazing rod it works too..
ATB....Dean
Hi Dean.
Romex is free.
Jere
Well I never would have thought.
What a great idea.
Hello Geeper:
Yes. I saw this first when watching a HenRob torch demo back in the 80s. I use this method for putting together lots of non structural items.
Thanks for watching. Jere
I would have never thought😲
I'm sure using a Cobra torch helps in this process.
Jere
Would using flux paste make this type of work better or worse? I'm new to brazing, so I don't know the tricks yet. However, I'm an electrical lineman, and i have an abundance of scrap copper wire from work, in many different sizes. Pure copper, both stranded and solid. So if I can get the hang of it, I have a bunch of free brazing rods! lol
Hello Logan:
I am using a Hen-Rob torch and it requires no flux. You will have to try this process with the torch you have. If you have an abundance of copper wire, I would make belt buckles from the wire. Look up E.A. Chase and you will see what I am talking about.
Thanks for watching. Jere
At last a guy who know how to make a good viewing video beside his good subject! I m gonna try it asap! (However the main cost in brazing is the 2 gas!)
Hello Frog:
Thanks for watching and your kind words. Jere
What flux gives the best results? Thanks for the demo.
No flux required using Hen-Rob torch.
just curious what size tip you are using. great video. thanks for sharing.
Hi Michele.
For this 18ga material I was using a .5 tip on a Hen Rob torch.
The tip size is determined by the thickest of the materials to be joined.
Be sure to subscribe. Jere
Great tip, thanks for sharing. Often making jigs and temporary bracing this would come in handy especially with the price of brass. And I have a buddy who's an electrician! Thanks again
Thanks for the reply James.
The joint really looks nice when you run the torch over it the second time. I have found myself using the copper for one time use jigs and fixtures also.
Thanks again Jere
great video, just found your site . great idea and responses. if you were to use it as a filler on a car , what surface prep prior to painting is recommended? i am told that when you braze a panel patch that extra steps to clean the surface are required. thanks for the info
Hello Sheri.
The extra prep when brazing is caused by the introduction of flux. With this method there is no flux used so no extra prep. You must be sure that air can not get to the front or the back of the copper because of corrosion. Primer and paint will take care of this problem.
Thanks for watching. Jere
That's Cool, never knew that , I used to use Tide laundry powder soap for brazing flux before they took out the Phosphates, GREAT VIDEO , thanks William
Hi again William.
Twenty mule team borax works well also. Using the Hen-Rob torch is also a plus.
Thanks. Jere
wow...a friend of mine was right; brazing could do all kinds of metal working jobs for me.
Hello Alonzo:
Sorry I didn't see your reply earlier. Yes brazing is a pretty good tool to have in the box.
Thanks for watching. Jere
That is so cool. Thanks for sharing
Hello Ramon:
Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere, I hope all is well, haven't seen a new video since this one. Hope you had a good Christmas and have a Happy and prosperous New Year.
Hello James.
I got the flu just after teaching a class in San Jose with Gene Winfield at the end of December. I hope to get my ducks in a row by the middle of January and get out a few more videos.
Thanks for asking and I hope your have success this coming year.
Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Thanks for responding, hope the worst is over, the flu can run from mild to wild. A little shnapps might help! Just a thought to help you sleep. Ill be looking forward to your return.
This is a good tip for a temporary joint but don't expect it to last long, I've read it will corrode over time. There are hundreds of different brazing rods, you need one that suits the particular situation.
Hello Kahu.
That is a good point. I just added a drain plug to a c6 automatic transmission and I chose to use silicon bronze to effect the joint. Learning proper joinery is not learned over night.
Thanks for the comment and watching. Jere
Thank you!
Vaughn,
It's always nice to learn new stuff.
Jere
I often wondered if this would work.... Excellent Video! For bigger parts this would work nice... Bronze melts at 1650° and Copper at 1984°.... I use Borax like they used to.. But thin metal I'll stick to Brass.
Hi Old School:
This was purely for information. Just something to put in the tool box. I always rely on the project at hand to inform me of the process to be used.
Thanks for the comments. Jere
PS. After I finish the Jeep I can Get back to my 53 F100.
Not what I was looking for here, using copper wire to weld steel to steel. I was looking for welding copper rod to copper bar using copper wire as filler rod. I saw an old electrician do it one time in my life on a big starter motor but I don't remember whether he used a flux or not with oxy-acetylene torch but the finished weld looked great. I have also seen copper wire welded to steel plate using yellow brass brazing rod using the white flux coated rod. That worked good too if you don't burn the copper up..
Hello pipedreams:
The process I used in this video was brazing. The parent material did not come to a melting point. I have "welded" copper before but it takes a more precise technique. Controlling the heat dissipation is the key to a successful weld.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Hi jere I really enjoy your videos! I was wondering how and if brazing pot metal is possible! Also what to use and how to properly do it. Thanks!
Hello Scott.
The last time I had any success in "welding" pot metal was back in1972. It was from a 1932 Plymouth grill. Everything since then has been a bust. The problem is the different amount's of Zink uset by different casting houses. Aluminum melts at between 890 and 1220F (depending on it's alloying) and Zink melts at 785F. When trying to weld pot metal the Zink starts spalling out before the aluminum reaches it's melting point and the Zink runs out onto the table. There is a product called "Alladin 123" and they claim you can "braze" pot metal with it. You have to use O/A torch and get the part hot enough to melt the rod while not melting the pot metal. I tried it once and did not receive a satisfactory result. With the limited amount of call for this process I have not pursued becoming more proficient at it.
Thanks for watching and your question.
Jere
Nutz? Nope. On the same vane, I've used SS & Alum mig wire for TIG filler when I've needed thing filler. rods. I wonder how silicon bronze filler rod would work? I dig Oxy Acetylene, its very TIG like (or visa verse; aka intuitive, and vastly versatile)
Hello Hobo.
I just used some silicon bronze yesterday on a radiator hold down that I made. It flows out very nicely and is a stronger attachment. I use MIG wire all the time for welding body panels and exhaust headers.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Thank you
You are welcome.
is it stainless ?
I'm going to try this next time I fire up the oxy/acc - thank you
Hello Gary:
Just remember that this is NOT a structural bond. I use it for joints on camera mounts and to obtain a nice fillet in a "T" joint.
Thanks for the comment. Jere
thanks Jere,
Good tip
Thanks. Jere
Jere,i made an oil tank for my Triumph chopper,and had pinhole leaks. Will this copper trick fill them?
Hi Chopper:
I am using a Hen-Rob torch which burns very clean. I don't know which type of torch you are using. Do a few test pieces to see if you get good results before making an attempt on your tank. If the results are good, center punch the pin hole just a little to open it up so the copper can flow down into the hole.
Thanks for the question. Jere
That's great job dear sir. Love it
Thanks Elias.
I learned this trick back in the 80's
Jere
Jere, why does this work without flux ? No oxidation in finished bead? Thanks P.S. Nice torch
I am using a Hen - Rob torch. It burns much cleaner than your standard torch.
Try it with the torch that you have and see what results you get. It may surprise you.
Jere
Is this strong enough to braze a hydraulic line on a tractor?
Hello:
No. I have repaired many lines and this was never considered as being used.
Thanks for the question. Jere
Mr Jere can this copper wire be used to braze on an aluminum flatboat?
Hello Bobby:
No it would be incompatable with aluminum. Depending on the surrounding area a repair could be effected by welding or riveting a patch.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Is there any reason somebody couldn't use that idea prepping for chrome plating. contouring and void filling?
Hello David:
That is what they do in the plating shops. Look at some of the chrome plating and chrome restoration videos here on You Tube. Copper is the base for the nickle.
Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
I thought it should work as Nomex and acid copper have to be close to being the same. It would be cheaper than buying silicon bronze. But you always have to ask when it comes to plating. How does it handle pot metal?
@@davidbartch8917
Pot metal is aluminum and zinc. The zinc will spal out. NOT compatible.
Jere
Can you use copper on cast-iron? ( tractor engine block).
Thank you.
Hi Lino:
I don't think I would use Copper. It's quite soft and may not accept the expansion and contraction that a engine goes through.
Several years ago I used a block sealer on my tractor and it is still working. This may have been the first time I had read and followed the instructions on the bottle.
Thanks for watching. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092
Thank you.
Jere, what metal are you brazing together with the copper?
Hello Irene.
The material is 18ga steel. I use this method quite a bit for making a nice fillet where two pieces come together in a "T" joint.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Thanks for the video.
Hello Richard.
Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe for more projects with a different twist on how things can be done.
Jere
How do you think this work on cast iron, like the skirt below the cylinder and the pan on an engine? Trying to avoid cracking due to challenges with heat distribution and cool down. Thanks in advance!
Hello Rick:
Copper is a very soft material and would not be good for any ware or pressure application.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick Hello Jere,
Understand about wear and pressure. I’m talking about a completely overhauled 1927 Model T engine that kicked an improperly tightened rod end out the side of the block, well below the cylinder down to, and including the pan lip. About 10 pieces with total area about 10 square inches. Hope you have a chance to consider this extra detail. I’ve seen you weld the old gas pump crack with cast iron rod but find the prospect of trying to fit 10 pieces one at a time seems more doable with you copper rod technique. I’ve done a lot of soldering and it just seems like it would work. No pressure inside the crankcase and nothing wears on this “skirt” area of the block. Kills me to think of junking the block. Thanks in advance for pondering this dilemma.
Hello @@rickolson9011:
Back in the 80's I repaired an exploded water pump by fitting all the pieces back together one by one, making sure of a good tight fit, and MIG welded just a spot to hold them in place (no more than a spot). After everything was in place I preheated it (on a fire out back) and brazed everything together. After the brazing was done I put it back on the fire and didn't touch it until the next morning. Then I did the final grinding and filing of the mating surfaces.
Hope you have success with your project. Jere
Thanks Jere! Sounds like a very good hybrid approach. It is rewarding to recover from catastrophe! I enjoy your video content and the quality of presentation. Be well!!
Nice, thank you.
Hello John:
Thank you. Jere
Can you do this with oxy map gas ? I THOUGHT you needed flux ?
Hello Bill:
I do not know about map gas. I am using a Hen-Rob torch which burns very clean.
Thanks for watching. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092THANKS Jere.
Have you tried this with flux (say, 20 MT Borax)? And did it affect joint strength for the better?
Great video!
Hello NM:
By using the Hen-Rob torch Flux is not needed. Flux is used for "floating" impurities to the surface and cleaning the area around the bond. Simplicity of the joint was the purpose for this exercise.
Thanks for watching and an excellent question. Jere
Thanks very much for the response. I have just discovered your channel and it seems you have given out with a great deal of valuable experience there. Your answer seems to be conditioned on the use of the Henrob torch in this instance. I cut, gas weld, and braze with conventional a/o and p/o torches and have never used a Henrob. Is there a technical side I’m missing?
@@NMranchhand Hi NM:
The Hen-Rob is a much cleaner burning torch. Watch this video and you will understand why. Jere
ua-cam.com/video/9Yydtw9KZ-M/v-deo.html
What temp does it melt at, can you use propane and no oxygen ?
Hi Peaky:
Copper melts at 1,984 deg. F. Steel melts at 2,700 prox. (depending on carbon content). I use a Hen-Rob torch and have not used any other process. Give it a try. With the large flame from the propane torch you will not have much control of the area being heated.
Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092
I shall give it a go, see if I can get it to melt,
I use oxy acetylene for my lead work but not sure if the regulators go high enough,
I'll give them a go as well as I like the idea of the bare copper wire.
And yes I have subscribed,
Keep up the great vids.
no flux ? what wire size ?
Any wire size.
No flux??? Surprised. Used .22 LR brass cased cartridges cases make a great joint.
Hi Van.
I'm sure using the Hen Rob torch helps.
Jere
hello there what kind of flux to use in this method
Hello Salah:
I use no flux. I am using a Hen Rob welding torch.
Thanks for watching. Jere
So AWESOME!!!
Hi again Bubba.
I didn't see this last night. Sorry.
Be sure to subscribe for I will be making the video's on how to make the parts from the patterns in the cone layout video.
Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 oh I'm subscribed and I hit the bell for notifications. Love your vids, bud👍👍
I'LL GIVE IT A GO ! I HAVE AN OIL TANK ON A MOTORCYCLE THAT'S BEING A LEAKER SO LETS SEE WHAT HAPPENS. THANKS
Hello Dan.
Be sure to give the copper a broad foot print. The two materials (steel and copper) have very different expansion rates. Allow the edges of the copper to "feather" out all the way around allowing the copper to move more freely.
Thanks for watching. Jere
What do you use as a Flux?
I don't use any flux Old School. I use a DHC 2000 (Dillon, HenRob, Cobra) torch which burns very clean.
Jere
Are you using a flux with this?
Hello Tornado:
No I am not using any flux but I am using a Hen-Rob Torch.
Thanks for watching. Jere
🙏
Thanks Pekka.
Jere
I tried this once but I’m thinking that I didn’t have enough heat on it
Hello Troy.
Steel is red hot at about 1,000 degrees. It must be above this temperature before the copper will flow out. Try putting a drop of copper on the steel and continue holding the flame to it until the pool of copper starts to flow out. Then you will have a visual of the correct temp. for making the joint.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere Kirkpatrick thanks I’ll give it try. I was thinking it would be more like brass flux or even sulfas like we do in HVAC
Aren't copper fumes harmful?
Hello John:
I'm sorry but I do not have a cogent answer for you.
Thanks for watching. Jere
If you worry about everything you'll die from stress.... Look at him.... Is he dying? Nope.. And them old guys worked with raw Lead instead of Bondo... They also had Mercury Thermometers.
@@OldSkoolF Lol
If Jere (hello sir,beautiful videos! ) had a few sun rays coming into the shop from some holes in the walls or roof (!!!) when he is sanding off the rust on some parts, like the cast iron helmet of the 1930s gas pump, he would *run* out of the shop (i would,it does not kill me,but it also does not make me stronger);....... and only come back later; one learns to hate iron rust dust, after one *sees* it,and some install a fan or exhaust fan;
i use mercury thermometers; we provide care for some old folks here (in Portugal,after 20 years in NJ); they still sell them (old stock,i guess)in bunches of 10 for 10 euros; no electronics and no pos batteries to go dead on you; the mercury qty is almost infinitesimal.
@@josepeixoto3384 I remember being 10 and DA'ing the side of my Uncles 50 Merc... He would take us to McDonalds and to Coffee with the Guys after We finished for the day... I remember blowing my nose and rainbow colored boogers coming out... I'm 55 now and stronger and healthier then most my age... He always used to say "stress is what kills a Man". Since then I don't worry about anything... My Uncle Lived to 83 and only died cause he was to stubborn to go see a doctor. (a cold turned pneumonia). I finished the 53 Glasstop He was building.. He had it almost done.. Just had to do the wiring... I wish I would have kept that Car... But like He said.... "Never fall in love with anything"...
I’m surprised it sticks
Hello Jeff:
Copper will flow out better than brass because of the lack of tin.
Be sure to subscribe. Jere
Yikes, that’s impossible??
Hi Brad.
Be sure to subscribe because I will soon be trying the same thing using a Victor torch along with the Hen Rob. I will be using both torches and try copper, brass, and silicon. Both with and without flux. You wont want to miss this one.
Thanks for watching. Jere
i bet if you brazed both sizes you could break it
Hello Ben:
This should be used as a filler only. Never for any structural application.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Technically Romex is the brand name of the wire, so you are actually using copper, not Romex.
Hello Ben:
You are correct. I used the term "Romex" so that fellows would know that copper wire was readily available to them at their local hardware store.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere