Hope you guys found something useful from this episode gang! Do me a huge favor and drop a like! This lets me know what kind of videos you guys wanna see :)
If you shoot 35mm a lot (or mostly) invest into a dedicated, high resolution 35mm scanner that can do batch scans. A true 5000dpi scanner with batch capability comes to around $650. It'll pay of quickly depending on how much you shoot. The video with the tips was spot on. I've been shooting film for about 25 years now, I would have given THE EXACT same tips in that order. Solid advice!!
Hi, your comment is interesting. I have a flat bed scanner but I'd like to know if you can recommend a batch scanner. I think it would help me greatly to improve my scan times
@@EduardodeOliveira Reflecta RPS 10000, also sold outside Europe using the Pacific Image brand. Best 35mm batch scanner for the buck, in the US it sells with a SilverFast license included. I use Vuescan Pro with it, scanning DNG RAW in batch from there.
I just returned from the lab after developing my very first rolls of film, having used an SLR for the first time ever. Despite my eight years of photography experience and a solid understanding of exposure, I’m encountering challenges with the camera’s light metering. It indicates an overall exposure is fine, but I’m finding that my main subject is underexposed in situations where I’m not shooting in direct sunlight, especially on overcast days. The background gets the right exposure, but unfortunately not my main subject. I guess I need more practice to Get to know my cam
Read somewhere recently. You should only hand hold down to whatever the size of the lens is to avoid shakes? So for example with a 50mm lens you should put it on a tripod if you go lower than 1/50
Find an old Kodak Pocket Photoguide, early print had a black cover, newest 1989 had a white cover. Would easily slip in shirt pocket. Lots of information regarding Kodak film as well as filters and printing.Had an exposure wheel with ASA guide and corresponding F stop. I still miss the exposure guide on those old film boxs.
Another awesome one man! This is a great one. Also just picked up a new in box Minolta XD11 in black. Can’t believe I scored this with a group of other cameras at an auction. My new favorite for sure!
Hey quick question, what's the thing on the top of the canon he's holding on the begining of the video at 0:40 If anyone knows I would appreciate it :)
I'm looking to play around with film. I picked up a Canon AF35m but want to try something not as simple. What would be better for a film novice or just a better camera between a Canon AE-1 or a Nikon FG?
What's the easiest way to over- or underexpose your photos? I heard a lot about changing the ISO/ASA one stop. What is the difference if you just use your exposure compensation wheel? I know some film cameras don't have that wheel, but wouldn't the end result be the same?
If you mean pushing/pulling then yeah, you can just set the iso/asa dial to whatever speed you want to shoot that roll at assuming your camera has a meter. If it doesn't then just set your handheld meter or metering app to the iso/asa you wish to shoot. Over time you will start to learn how to read light so you can do it on the fly without needing to read a meter but it's always good to reference a meter if you're unsure. So say you are using a 400 speed film and wish to pull it one stop to 'over expose' then you would set your dial or hand held meter to 200 iso/asa. If you wish to push it one stop to 'under expose' you would set the dial or meter to 800 iso/asa. Then when you process your film you would develop using the times set for 200 iso or 800 iso which may be more or less time. If you send it to a lab then be sure to notify the lab what speed you shot it at so they can adjust it accordingly or your negatives will be under or over developed and may be unusable in extreme cases.
Yes it would. Exposure compensation has the same effect as changing ISO. But, the question is does changing the ISO as opposed to changing Exp Comp affect the shutter speed or the f stop? 🤔 Also, if you're pulling them developing as normal is fine. Pushing.......you're going to run into slight issues unless you compensate in development.
You got to figure out if your camera reads dx codes on the canisters for iso or if it has a dial to set the iso for the internal light meter. I would never over or underexpose a film with the exposure compensation dial. You should manipulate the dx code (ample videos on how to do that) or set the dial on old cameras to what ever iso value you need. The exposure correction is a tool to adjust for motive and lighting conditions. It helps the internal light meter find the correct exposure. Snow and Sand are highly reflective and confuse the meter to the extent that a snowy mountain top will look grey. A light meter will always meter for what is called middle grey which means that lighter colours (yellow, white etc) will turn dark if not corrected. Inversely a dark environment will trick the meter to leave the shutter open longer to get black to grey. In these special circumstances meter, than use the exposure compensation to correct for the current context. It is a great helper that cannot get the job done when it is already used to manipulate the iso in one or the other direction.
A bit lost on overexposing: Is setting the ISO at 200 in case of using a 400 film? Any other ways to do it or any other things to consider? Maybe something about the light meter interpretation? Another amazing video, thank you for the good content!
It was confusing when I first learned too. Exposure in ISO on film is a bit inverse than it is on digital. If you're shooting digital, then you would raise the ISO for a brighter photo. However, on film, because the ISO is a set amount and is an analog process, we have to trick the camera. ISO 200 film is less light sensitive than 400 speed film, which therefore the 200 speed film requires more light to properly expose the image. If we tell the camera that the film is 200 speed (although it is actually at 400), the camera will give it more light thinking that the film is less sensitive -but the physical properties of the film are still at 400 ISO. Therefore, if we gave a 400 speed film enough light, more light, to properly expose a 200 speed film, we have overexposed the film! This is called pushing. We choose 200 instead of 400 because 400/2=200, which is one stop (+1) over exposed. If we wanted to overexpose the image by two stops (+2), we would choose 100, because 400/2=200/2=100. You can reverse this process to underexpose your film as well. If the film is tricked into being more sensitive, a higher ISO film, then the camera will read exposure for less light, underexposing the image. If the film stock is 400 speed, we will measure it one stop underexpose (-1) at 800 ISO. This is called pulling. For more clarification, ISO=Speed and are synonymous in this example. I’m obviously not Kingjvpes, but I hope this helps!
Love the last tip, just want to understand though, if I'm setting the camera to 100 ISO for my 200 ISO film, will my shutter speed be for 100 camera ISO? or the film 200 ISO?
Hi! I have the Olympus superzoom 700xb and I can’t find the f or shutterspeed anywhere on it xxx is this because it isn’t included on this camera/it automatically does it? I’m not sure
You should be just fine since the whole point of a point and shoot is that you don’t need to worry about the settings, the camera will handle them for you
Assuming it's an auto exposing point and shoot then you can ignore the light meter portion as the camera will choose the exposure for you, though you can kinda trick it to get different exposures on some cameras.
@Bert T. yes, but if you half press the shutter on some it will set the exposure for where it's looking at that moment, then you can kinda save that exposure by keeping your finger half pressed on the shutter as you compose your image. Obviously not all can do this but I have seen it done before both in person and on UA-cam so I know it works.
Most film photos suck because it's not 1992. Back then, film photography was simply, photography. Cameras were newer. No issues with fungus, the grease in the helicoid was still greasy, no oxidized battery compartments, and shutters worked properly. Hell, my broke self had zero issues with disposables and one hour photo development. The issue with film photography today is that film has gone up astronomically, cameras from that era are one step closer to my great grandpa, and developing is expensive......oh and this younger generation who have never seen a roll of film don't understand how that shooting film is almost the same as shooting digital, only, a little different. It's funny cause I remember how back in the day, no one I ever saw take a picture stress over what the image would look like. They simply took pictures. And they looked great. So with that, I believe the issue today is with either gear not working properly, or a lack of understanding of how photography works.
Film ISO tells you how sensitive to light the particular roll of film is. The higher the number, the more sensitive it is (i.e. the less light it needs to produce an image). For example, when you want to shoot 400 ISO film at box speed, you're going to set the camera to ISO 400. This sets the internal light meter to the correct sensitivity. By lowering the ISO to 200, you trick the camera into thinking a less sensitive film is loaded, which in turn needs more light. If you go by the internal light meter then, your images will be overexposed. If you set it to 800, your images will be underexposed since the camera thinks the film needs less light.
@@nxralym7368 I'm not exactly sure what you mean by lowering the ISO. It's a fixed value determined by your film, so you can't pick and choose without changing the roll. If you mean changing the light meter setting, if you go by what it shows, you're going to overexpose your film by one stop.
Hope you guys found something useful from this episode gang! Do me a huge favor and drop a like! This lets me know what kind of videos you guys wanna see :)
No I didn’t find any of this useful tbh
Do you also tell the developer that you pushed it one stop? Or are they developing at 400 still when you shot at 200?
@KingJvpes yeah I am home developing and I am wondering if I need to change something in my development ? Thanks for your video!
If you shoot 35mm a lot (or mostly) invest into a dedicated, high resolution 35mm scanner that can do batch scans. A true 5000dpi scanner with batch capability comes to around $650. It'll pay of quickly depending on how much you shoot.
The video with the tips was spot on. I've been shooting film for about 25 years now, I would have given THE EXACT same tips in that order. Solid advice!!
Hi, your comment is interesting. I have a flat bed scanner but I'd like to know if you can recommend a batch scanner. I think it would help me greatly to improve my scan times
@@EduardodeOliveira Reflecta RPS 10000, also sold outside Europe using the Pacific Image brand. Best 35mm batch scanner for the buck, in the US it sells with a SilverFast license included. I use Vuescan Pro with it, scanning DNG RAW in batch from there.
@@weisserth That is great! Thanks! I'll investigate the reflecta scanner.
I just returned from the lab after developing my very first rolls of film, having used an SLR for the first time ever. Despite my eight years of photography experience and a solid understanding of exposure, I’m encountering challenges with the camera’s light metering. It indicates an overall exposure is fine, but I’m finding that my main subject is underexposed in situations where I’m not shooting in direct sunlight, especially on overcast days. The background gets the right exposure, but unfortunately not my main subject. I guess I need more practice to
Get to know my cam
Read somewhere recently. You should only hand hold down to whatever the size of the lens is to avoid shakes? So for example with a 50mm lens you should put it on a tripod if you go lower than 1/50
This is a good rule of thumb for anything with a mirror. With rangefinders and TLRs you can get away with slower shutter speeds.
Find an old Kodak Pocket Photoguide, early print had a black cover, newest 1989 had a white cover. Would easily slip in shirt pocket. Lots of information regarding Kodak film as well as filters and printing.Had an exposure wheel with ASA guide and corresponding F stop. I still miss the exposure guide on those old film boxs.
Thanks for this video! Getting back to film and these tips really help!
Another awesome one man! This is a great one.
Also just picked up a new in box Minolta XD11 in black. Can’t believe I scored this with a group of other cameras at an auction. My new favorite for sure!
Great tips, thank you.
The simplest solutions always seem to be the most difficult to master! Great advice here, good job!!
Hey quick question, what's the thing on the top of the canon he's holding on the begining of the video at 0:40 If anyone knows I would appreciate it :)
I'm looking to play around with film. I picked up a Canon AF35m but want to try something not as simple. What would be better for a film novice or just a better camera between a Canon AE-1 or a Nikon FG?
What's the easiest way to over- or underexpose your photos? I heard a lot about changing the ISO/ASA one stop. What is the difference if you just use your exposure compensation wheel? I know some film cameras don't have that wheel, but wouldn't the end result be the same?
That's something I'd like to know as well, in case I'm changing locations and dont want to change the iso for all of them
If you mean pushing/pulling then yeah, you can just set the iso/asa dial to whatever speed you want to shoot that roll at assuming your camera has a meter.
If it doesn't then just set your handheld meter or metering app to the iso/asa you wish to shoot. Over time you will start to learn how to read light so you can do it on the fly without needing to read a meter but it's always good to reference a meter if you're unsure.
So say you are using a 400 speed film and wish to pull it one stop to 'over expose' then you would set your dial or hand held meter to 200 iso/asa. If you wish to push it one stop to 'under expose' you would set the dial or meter to 800 iso/asa. Then when you process your film you would develop using the times set for 200 iso or 800 iso which may be more or less time. If you send it to a lab then be sure to notify the lab what speed you shot it at so they can adjust it accordingly or your negatives will be under or over developed and may be unusable in extreme cases.
Yes it would. Exposure compensation has the same effect as changing ISO. But, the question is does changing the ISO as opposed to changing Exp Comp affect the shutter speed or the f stop? 🤔 Also, if you're pulling them developing as normal is fine. Pushing.......you're going to run into slight issues unless you compensate in development.
You got to figure out if your camera reads dx codes on the canisters for iso or if it has a dial to set the iso for the internal light meter. I would never over or underexpose a film with the exposure compensation dial. You should manipulate the dx code (ample videos on how to do that) or set the dial on old cameras to what ever iso value you need. The exposure correction is a tool to adjust for motive and lighting conditions. It helps the internal light meter find the correct exposure. Snow and Sand are highly reflective and confuse the meter to the extent that a snowy mountain top will look grey. A light meter will always meter for what is called middle grey which means that lighter colours (yellow, white etc) will turn dark if not corrected. Inversely a dark environment will trick the meter to leave the shutter open longer to get black to grey. In these special circumstances meter, than use the exposure compensation to correct for the current context. It is a great helper that cannot get the job done when it is already used to manipulate the iso in one or the other direction.
“Meter in camera like it’s underexposed one stop”- so if I have 400iso film, and set the camera to 200iso…I would shoot at 1/500? Or 1/250? I’m lost
Have you done any videos yet reviewing Cinestill 400D?
A bit lost on overexposing: Is setting the ISO at 200 in case of using a 400 film? Any other ways to do it or any other things to consider? Maybe something about the light meter interpretation? Another amazing video, thank you for the good content!
It was confusing when I first learned too. Exposure in ISO on film is a bit inverse than it is on digital. If you're shooting digital, then you would raise the ISO for a brighter photo. However, on film, because the ISO is a set amount and is an analog process, we have to trick the camera.
ISO 200 film is less light sensitive than 400 speed film, which therefore the 200 speed film requires more light to properly expose the image. If we tell the camera that the film is 200 speed (although it is actually at 400), the camera will give it more light thinking that the film is less sensitive -but the physical properties of the film are still at 400 ISO. Therefore, if we gave a 400 speed film enough light, more light, to properly expose a 200 speed film, we have overexposed the film! This is called pushing.
We choose 200 instead of 400 because 400/2=200, which is one stop (+1) over exposed. If we wanted to overexpose the image by two stops (+2), we would choose 100, because 400/2=200/2=100.
You can reverse this process to underexpose your film as well. If the film is tricked into being more sensitive, a higher ISO film, then the camera will read exposure for less light, underexposing the image. If the film stock is 400 speed, we will measure it one stop underexpose (-1) at 800 ISO. This is called pulling.
For more clarification, ISO=Speed and are synonymous in this example.
I’m obviously not Kingjvpes, but I hope this helps!
@@timocashman Thank you for the amazing explanation!!!!
Is there any newer scanners out there for film?
Love the last tip, just want to understand though, if I'm setting the camera to 100 ISO for my 200 ISO film, will my shutter speed be for 100 camera ISO? or the film 200 ISO?
If you rate a 200 iso film at 100 iso, you should meter for 100 iso. If not you are killing the purpose.
Hi!
I have the Olympus superzoom 700xb and I can’t find the f or shutterspeed anywhere on it xxx is this because it isn’t included on this camera/it automatically does it? I’m not sure
It’s point and shoot camera, it does everything automatically
please do a part 2!!
I would check your favorite social media and locate a photography group/club in your town and go meet them.
If you have a pointshoot camera you need lightmeter ?
You should be just fine since the whole point of a point and shoot is that you don’t need to worry about the settings, the camera will handle them for you
Assuming it's an auto exposing point and shoot then you can ignore the light meter portion as the camera will choose the exposure for you, though you can kinda trick it to get different exposures on some cameras.
No. Point and shots use an algorithm to decide on the shutter and F stop based on film ISO and external lighting. Hence the name Point and Shoot.
@Bert T. yes, but if you half press the shutter on some it will set the exposure for where it's looking at that moment, then you can kinda save that exposure by keeping your finger half pressed on the shutter as you compose your image.
Obviously not all can do this but I have seen it done before both in person and on UA-cam so I know it works.
Most film photos suck because it's not 1992. Back then, film photography was simply, photography. Cameras were newer. No issues with fungus, the grease in the helicoid was still greasy, no oxidized battery compartments, and shutters worked properly. Hell, my broke self had zero issues with disposables and one hour photo development. The issue with film photography today is that film has gone up astronomically, cameras from that era are one step closer to my great grandpa, and developing is expensive......oh and this younger generation who have never seen a roll of film don't understand how that shooting film is almost the same as shooting digital, only, a little different. It's funny cause I remember how back in the day, no one I ever saw take a picture stress over what the image would look like. They simply took pictures. And they looked great. So with that, I believe the issue today is with either gear not working properly, or a lack of understanding of how photography works.
I recently got my film develop/back and some of them suck. I see the title and click. The first think i hear is: 0:01
😂
If you're shooting with a wide angle lens say 24mm your shutter speed shouldn't go below that length
Hey, how did you know my film photos suck? 😆
U said basics but dang. Give us a little more tho lol
I am confused. How are we over exposing by lowering the lSO from 400 to 200? Shouldn’t it be 800?
Because at 200 iso you're letting more light hit the film.
Film ISO tells you how sensitive to light the particular roll of film is. The higher the number, the more sensitive it is (i.e. the less light it needs to produce an image). For example, when you want to shoot 400 ISO film at box speed, you're going to set the camera to ISO 400. This sets the internal light meter to the correct sensitivity.
By lowering the ISO to 200, you trick the camera into thinking a less sensitive film is loaded, which in turn needs more light. If you go by the internal light meter then, your images will be overexposed.
If you set it to 800, your images will be underexposed since the camera thinks the film needs less light.
So if we were to lower the iso from 400 to 200, do we still need to follow the camera light meter for shutter speed?
@@nxralym7368 yes because the camera will think your roll is 200 iso, so it will give you exposure settings for that.
@@nxralym7368 I'm not exactly sure what you mean by lowering the ISO. It's a fixed value determined by your film, so you can't pick and choose without changing the roll.
If you mean changing the light meter setting, if you go by what it shows, you're going to overexpose your film by one stop.