How-to Rebuild GM 9.5" 14 Bolt (Truetrac and 4.10 Gears) - GMT400 Restoration Ep.4
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Hey y'all,
In this video I give you step-by-step directions on how to rebuild, regear, or lock/lsd a 9.5" GM semi-floater 14 bolt. I used a Detroit Truetrac and Yukon 4.10 gears. Parts #s are available at the beginning of the video.
Setup specs per Yukon manual
OEM Shim Depth: .030" (Mine was measured to .025, so it may depend on year)
Pinion preload with new bearings: 15-22 inch lbs
pinion preload with old bearings: 7-9 inch lbs
backlash: 6-10 thousands of an inch
ring gear bolt torque: 75 foot lbs
main cap torque: 80 foot lbs
1. Remove Bearing caps. (Orientation matters, mark Top/Bottom L/R)
2. Mark/Score adjuster (If you intend on reusing stock gears)
3. Remove the bolt that holds the cross-shaft pin
4. Remove the cross-shaft pin
5. C-CLIP Removal (Use ring pliers if you have them) (May have to press on the axle shaft to expose them)
6. Remove Axle Shaft
7. Run adjustment collar back about 3 turns. (If you intend on reusing stock gears.)
8. Carrier should come out now. (Heavy! Don’t drop.)
9. Run adjustment collar back to stock spec (~3 turns)
10. Replace bearing caps for safe keeping / correct orientation
11. Remove yoke nut
12. Partially thread back on (so yoke doesn’t fly off)
13. Beat yoke loose
14. Remove nut and yoke
15. Remove pinion. Best practice is with a hammer and appropriate punch. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE THREADS / Partially threaded NUT. At least if you plan on reusing your gears. (Deadblow hammer / block of wood)
16. Remove outer pinion race
17. Remove inner pinion race (USE BRASS ONLY - Don’t damage the housing!)
- Mistakes were made using steel punch. Had to file/sand surface flat
18. Remove axle seal
19. Remove axle bearing
20. Clean the housing, magnet, and gasket surface.
21. Clean surface, and under bearings
22. Oil and install new axle bearings
23. New axle seals
24. Install pinion races
25. Make pinion setup bearings
26. Measure shims
27. Install setup bearings with shims
28. Install yoke/pinion WITHOUT seal
29. Tighten yoke so there is no play in the pinion
30. File down carrier / gears for any burs, want mating surface to be completely flush.
- Reusing gears but new carrier/locker - use a brass punch and work the old ring gear off. The bolts on it are REVERSE THREAD. Turn right to loosen.
- You can NOT reuse ring gear bolts. You need to order new ones.
- Can cut heads off the old bolts and use them as alignment studs.
31. Install ring gear on your carrier
- like this. The guy at the shop span the carrier while beating it with a mallet. Used the OLD bolts to draw the gear on. Said the ring gear will fully seat when I torque new bolts. (Also recommended freezing the carrier / baking the gears to make it easier.)
32. - Missing, Pressing carrier bearings on. Explain it
33. Install new bolts, use locktite
- Torqued in a star, from 60ft to 85 (I think)
34. Install carrier
35. Backlash and runout check
36. Pattern check
37. remove carrier and pinion
38. Press new bearings onto pinion
39. Final pinion install with new crush sleeve
40. Pinion seal and yoke installed
41. Pinion nut installed with red loctite
42. Torque crush sleeve to 15-22 in-lbs
43. Final Carrier Install
44. Install your shims, and tighten carrier preload.
45. Torque down main caps
46. Final runout and pattern check
47. Axle shafts and c-clips in
48. Axle spacer, cap and clip
49. Drums, Wheels on
50. Testing the truetrac
51. Cover and gasket on
Some other videos I would recommend:
milkcrate82- '81 14 bolt rebuild
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jk gear and gadgets - 10.5 14 bolt rebuild
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Hagerty - 12 bolt rebuild
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mowerdog - truetrac installation
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Good video, very informative. You can hold the yoke with your hand instead of holding it with a bar when removing it with an impact. Also, you can knock out the wheel bearings instead of cutting them out. Remove both axles, the carrier and then slide an 8 foot piece of angle iron or metal pipe through the axle housing until you hit the bearing on the other side of the housing. Whack it with a 2 pound hammer and it will pop out; repeat the process for the other axle bearing, this will save you hours of time cutting them out. For the wheel bearing seals take a large channel lock , grip the edge of the seal and pry backwards. They'll come out in about 30 seconds per side.
thanks for this video! been looking everywhere for info on this and i haven't been able to find a solid video until now. I've got a 9.5 SF that im swapping out my 10 bolt with and also putting 4.10 gears in, so you basically gave a perfect step by step video for me!
No problem - glad to help!
Anyone who's looking for the part number on the larger/later style pinion seal. National P/N:710507 is correct for the larger pinion yoke. The shaft diameter on the seal should be 2.088in or 53.040mm.
@@JuiceSpringsteen88 thanks for the help!
I know this is a bit old, but for future reference, the tapered side of those bearing/seal drivers is for the races. Otherwise great video. I’m going to be doing very soon.
The fucking cross pin will not come out
Hey man! Nice job!
I have a question, im currently installing a truetrac to my 14bolt 9,5 axle.
I just wonder if there is any special orientation on the ring gear when installing it on the truetrac?
I mean rotation wise.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks Jimmy! No, I don’t believe there is any specific rotational orientation. As long as the bolt holes line up you should be good.
(For future references) I watched a video of a guy who put his carrier in the freezer for about 3 hours and then put his bearing in the oven at 400°. He hit the bearing seats with a light sanding and the bearing slide right on. I tried this method just to see if it would work. It did! Perfectly. You have to be set up and fast to do both at the same time but they will slide right on and tighten back up when everything gets back to room temp. I just tapped them down with a deadblow in a circle to make sure they didn't bind but it was definitely easier then taking it to a shop if you don't have a press. Grate video by the way! Very nice work!
I did this, didnt even need to sand or whack them with a hammer. I had the bearings in for 35 minutes at 450, carrier in the freezer for the same amount of time and one fell right one, the other went on with a light whack with the palm of my hand.
Thanks for the video. I took out both of the axles tubes and i cant get them back in. Is there a clip or something stopping em? Thanks again
They’re splined, have you tried rotating them? Also make sure your actually hitting the hole and not the side of the carrier.
Could I install 6 lug axle flanges instead of 8 lug?
Maybe, I own an '88 C1500 Silverado with 14 bolt rear axle. This axle has a 6 lug flange.
You might measure the 8 lug shaft's long and compare with the 6 lug, it's the same!
I hope to help you 👍🏼😉
what did this axle come out of
98 K2500
Amazing video. I’m going 4.10 and a true trac as well in my truck!!! Thank you and subscribed!
Thanks friend!
Good video, thanks for sharing. I have a 14b sf that I need to go through soon.
Do you plan on putting disks brake's on any time from MBS factory parts
I'll be changing to a LSD rear end this spring and this video has been helpful. I also have the 14-bolt 9.5.
What is the part # for the pinion seal you used? Thanks in advance. Really appreciate the video!!
Glad I could help! I’m not sure, It has been a while but I think the master install kit I showed at the beginning came with both styles of pinion seals.
National P/N: 710507 should be correct.
Going to be doing this to my Trailblazer SS. Same rear end. Thank you!
Good work bro and thanks for sharing. I’m thinking of putting a 9.5”/14bolt/6lug under my 84 K10. Wonder if this is the best idea since you mentioned the 10.5” full float would be better. Wondering which way I should go
Depends on what you’re looking to do with your truck. The 10.5 might be “stronger” but not everyone needs that strength. The 9.5 is still a stout axle that can handle some power. Full floaters would be more necessary if you’re going to be rock bouncing or pulling dually level weight.
If I were to do it again, I’d get a 6 lug full floater. I’d have the strength and convenience of 6 lug wheels.
@@Hobdy right on! No rock crawling for me, use it and cruise it haha! Sometimes pull a double axle car hauler loaded down. Definitely sticking with 6 lug. Just have to make sure wheel mount to wheel mount isn’t off so my rear tires aren’t sticking out further than my front
How is that tru trac working out I'm thinking of going with a full detroit for my 9.5 but man the lockers are a little pricy for these axles.
Yeah, it was steep. It’d be cheaper to pay the difference and get a 10:5. I have not yet gotten the truck running yet, so can’t say. I’m behind on videos but hopefully It’ll be driving next week
Great Video Man!
Thanks!
Beast
Beast
Wow!
What was the mixture used to color your ring gear and pinion?
Richmond Gear 5500011 Gear Marking Compound mixer with oil
@@Hobdy thank you!
“Ended up using a dremel” 😂
It happens!