CAUTION!!! At 2:03 he gives the method for finding the exact spot to drill the hole for the hinge pin for the paddle mage release. His method, which he describes as "3 positions" below and "one position" behind the edge of the mag well. THIS WAS WRONG ON MY RIFLE. And looking at the video it does not appear the hole he made it lines up with the description he gave for it's position. I found another reference where they said it should be .605 inches below the center of the magazine release button hole. [the measurements following are from memory and may not be accurate but the method is correct] The mag release button is about .224 diameter on my rifle (yours may differ slightly). So subtracting half of .224 to .605 is .493 inches from the bottom of the mag release button hole. This means it is two mag release button hole lengths from the bottom of the mag release button hole. That's all good, and not far from what is in the video. The problem is the horizontal placement. In the video he says it's one mag release button hole distance from the edge of the mag well. On my rifle this is not the case, it puts the mag release lever too close to the magazine and you can't push it far enough to release the magazine, because the magazine is in the way. It should be farther back towards the butt-stock. Unfortunately, I had already drilled the hole before I found this out so I had to modify the angle of the paddle to get it to work. I bent it, but it was not enough, when I bent it more, it cracked. I ended up, cutting the paddle portion off, welding it back on and about an hour grinding, filing, and sanding it back into something resembling a finished part. It is also very important that the hinge hole is straight through the rifle (perpendicular to the barrel), mine is slightly angled and it caused the paddle to be stiff and it had an nasty "speed bump" right when first press it. I have been pressing in a few hundred times and it is working itself out. The placement of the hole you need to drill is not so critical that you should hire a scientific team to determine it, but take your time and try to get it as correct as you can.
Thanks for the input. I'm sure it will be useful to some. It worked for me, using my rifle and the piece cut from the HK receiver. There will be some variance from rifle to rifle, brand to brand, model to model, year to year. The dimensions on your rifle may not have been as close to those of the HK stub as mine were. IDK what you mean by the hole i made doesn't line up with my description, it clearly did and clearly worked. So clarification on that comment would be appreciated. This wasn't intended to be a end all be all how-to of this process. I couldn't locate any instruction of any kind when this was made. Hence the reason I made this in the first place. Its intended to be basic guidelines for those comfortable and skilled enough to perform the process. While getting their own measurements on the samples they have on hand and work out the kinks associated with their own examples. Its part of the reason I haven't gone back and given exact measurements after relocating the HK stub section ( insert your last paragraph here). I apologize if all this wasn't made clear in the video. Much has changed since this video was (originally) made 10yrs ago. Parts availability has changed considerably, available instruction for another and the ATF's flip flopping on the necessity of the entire process are 3 examples.
I am trying to install a mag paddle release on a SAR 8. The welded on shelf seems smaller in height than the PTR so measuring .605 from center of mag release pin hole would put the drill location on the welded upper sloped edge of the bottom plate. Another issue is trying to figure out how the contact piece goes on. Also the original pinned push button knob has an extended tube on it. It appears that would need to be cut off as it will not go on the shift along with the new contact piece. This is getting complicated....can anyone help please??
Nice work. It shows that a guy doesn't need a machine shop to get the job done. I've done enough shade tree machining to believe I could pull this off thanks to you. :) It is always nice to see someone else go first, pave the way, and document it the process. My SAR-3/8 needs this. :) My only issue is what to do with refinishing the areas of metal that will be exposed. I've no experience in refinishing a firearm.
Now you need the wide handguard with bipod, and carry handle. Later cetme I think is easier to do this cause it's just sheet metal welded over the pin hole. You did exactly what I thought you would do. It's what I would do
+Jon Hurley Glad I could help. I couldn't find much out there. No video "how to's". I went into this blind and thought the video could help others. Glad it did.
just completed this mod on my ptr91. overall not hard the only part that was a royal pain in the ass was grinding out the area that the leaver fits in. if you had the right tools it would make a big difference.
Hey bud im on the road for a while. I should be back home in about five weeks. What i did is buy the demilled cetme c ftom apex. It cost about 15 bucks
+Jon Hurley the mag release part came with everything you need exept the pin. if i temeber right the pin also came from apex. all the measurements came from the demilled part. good luck bud. cutting out the steal under the lip is a real pain in the ass. a drimel seemed to work best but your foing to go threw a few bits. there's no easy way to get to it
I am trying to install a mag paddle release on a SAR 8. The welded on shelf seems smaller in height than the PTR so measuring .605 from center of mag release pin hole would put the drill location on the welded upper sloped edge of the bottom plate. Another issue is trying to figure out how the contact piece goes on. Also the original pinned push button knob has an extended tube on it. It appears that would need to be cut off as it will not go on the shaft along with the new contact piece. This is getting complicated....can anyone help please??
Can someone explain why one could not run the original pin and diameter and such? With the semi-auto shelf sticking into the trigger housing and pack, there's already a block preventing the installation of full-auto parts... After all, it would be no different than a three-position safety on a semi-only trigger pack (i.e. S/1/A markings only function as S/1/1). Sure it looks full-auto, but it wouldn't function full-auto...
The Zorz why do they ban barrel importation if it has been installed on something automatic before? The barrel has nothing to do with making it a machine gun. I learned years ago to stop trying to make sense of senseless laws and even worse, illegal bureaucratic “rulings” and “determinations” from the ATF.
Hit the drop down in the video description for most of that. If you are referring the the depth drilled when you say "stop in the frame". I just measured its thickness and taped the drill bit so I didn't go too far.
do you have a source to the whole parts kit for the paddle mag release? wanting to do this to my Cetme .308 parts for them online are scattered everywhere
Is it illegal to drill through both sides of the receiver to install the pivot pin? Is that the reason you didn't drill completely through that one side?
There was some debate on it, that's the reason this is a revised video. I'm playing it safe. Like many other things the ATF has flip flopped on it. It was fine if undersized, then it made it a machine gun, currently they are allowing guns with the full original setup with front pin, paddle catch and all to be imported. Maybe they will change their minds next week, declare them all a machine gun again and order all receivers to be collected and destroyed like they just did to Tommy Built G36 clones. Who knows?
@@therideneverends1697 First it was holes are fine. Then no hole through receiver or that makes it an MG, even though that hole and the shelf didn't affect it. I was initially told and under the impression that the undersized hole that couldn't accept a pin that supported the FCG was OK. Some said it still wasn't. To be safe I clarified in this repost about not going all the way through. Now, they are importing and selling guns off the shelf with the front pin and paddle in place like the original. HK stuff isn't confusing. Its a inanimate object. The indecisive ATF and their overreach, simultaneously acting as all three branches of government and constantly changing "rulings", "opinions" and legal definitions is what's confusing. Like them or not, the bumpstock ban is a perfect example of all of this. Its not legally defined as a gun, firearm, rifle or machinegun. No law changed. No legal definitions changed. No law banning them was passed. Yet here we are. Change by fiat. You can put a bump stock on a single action revolver and its now somehow a machine gun even though you would still have to manually cock the hammer for every shot. Sorry for the rant. Shit is beyond old at this point.
I thought legally the hole can’t be over 1/8” and you need a pin with a bushing made inside the frame and it has to be a blind hole the other side of the reciever must not be drilled through. You can drill deep enough the pin sits in and the open end welded on. That’s my understanding bcos other wise if you install it to hk spec it is a mg folks be careful
Hubscharber I have no experience with metal trigger housings. That said......This mod. does not alter the dimensions of the receiver or the semi auto shelf. If the semi auto housing fits the receiver prior to the mod., it should fit the same after.
I have the HK parts for the paddle but in California we CANNOT do this alteration! I'll sell my kit for $30 shipped in a US Flat Rate Box With tracking number!
It shouldnt void anything because for a while you could send your gun back to ptr91 and have them install the paddle release and or have the rail section welded to the top of the receiver like their newer guns come with. It's obviously a pain in the ass because ptr stopped offering that service. Ptr moved about an hour from where I live here in SC. Im a gunsmith and dealer and I do offer the paddle magazine conversions on these types of rifles and handguns. From mp5 9mm, the 5.56 variants, and 308 versions including the cetme rifles. I dont do them for 40 caliber mp5 guns though as it has a different paddle assembly. I have done 5 of these guns and currently have 2 more to do along with some other custom builds. So I am a bit back logged. You can try to contact me on here or you can look me up on Facebook under this name. I'm the only Jonathan Hudson in Darlington SC that is a gunsmith. I havent upgraded the page in a long while but Hudson Arms is my company page on face book. Messenger on Facebook tends to work best. I cant really give a quote until I know more about your specific rifle and what parts I'll need other than the paddle conversion kit as some mag release bars arent comparable with the paddle and would need to be replaced with a bar that is. Until ptr moved here, as far as I know I was the only h&k delayed roller lock armorer in SC. Atleast I was the only one willing to take on the job that is a certified gunsmith.
I did not have any instructions as to how this is done when I set out to do it. Sorry, I did not record my measurements. However, there is a link at the bottom of the video description I found later. They claim it is .605 down from the center of the mag catch hole. There are also other links and specs within that link.
RTG. They no longer have them but still have all the other stuff. The have the anti-rattle paddle. That wasn't available when I didi this mod. They also now have a drilling jig. It isn't cheap, But i suppose it would be easy to sell after you used it. www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/Mag-Catch-Assembly-c178.htm
No, they are original HK G3 parts that I removed from the receiver section in the video and the addition of the pin and bushing kit to keep it NFA compliant.
It's all in what you want. I wanted the original HK style. I can pop a few pins and have a modern setup or a old school G3 clone. From everything I've read the TL-2 is only a drop-in part for actual HK's, PTR's still require some modification (albeit less modification than the HK paddle). I did my own work, so the price for both would be about the same. I'm not going to tell anyone how to set up their rifle. Do what works best for you.
Out of the 25,000 views the 2 versions of this video have had, you are the first to complain. Either way, the video description provides a step by step, text description of everything being performed and all tools needed. Sorry you are unhappy with the product I provided. I'd be happy to issue a refund......
CAUTION!!! At 2:03 he gives the method for finding the exact spot to drill the hole for the hinge pin for the paddle mage release. His method, which he describes as "3 positions" below and "one position" behind the edge of the mag well.
THIS WAS WRONG ON MY RIFLE. And looking at the video it does not appear the hole he made it lines up with the description he gave for it's position.
I found another reference where they said it should be .605 inches below the center of the magazine release button hole. [the measurements following are from memory and may not be accurate but the method is correct] The mag release button is about .224 diameter on my rifle (yours may differ slightly). So subtracting half of .224 to .605 is .493 inches from the bottom of the mag release button hole. This means it is two mag release button hole lengths from the bottom of the mag release button hole.
That's all good, and not far from what is in the video.
The problem is the horizontal placement. In the video he says it's one mag release button hole distance from the edge of the mag well. On my rifle this is not the case, it puts the mag release lever too close to the magazine and you can't push it far enough to release the magazine, because the magazine is in the way. It should be farther back towards the butt-stock.
Unfortunately, I had already drilled the hole before I found this out so I had to modify the angle of the paddle to get it to work. I bent it, but it was not enough, when I bent it more, it cracked. I ended up, cutting the paddle portion off, welding it back on and about an hour grinding, filing, and sanding it back into something resembling a finished part.
It is also very important that the hinge hole is straight through the rifle (perpendicular to the barrel), mine is slightly angled and it caused the paddle to be stiff and it had an nasty "speed bump" right when first press it. I have been pressing in a few hundred times and it is working itself out.
The placement of the hole you need to drill is not so critical that you should hire a scientific team to determine it, but take your time and try to get it as correct as you can.
Thanks for the input. I'm sure it will be useful to some. It worked for me, using my rifle and the piece cut from the HK receiver. There will be some variance from rifle to rifle, brand to brand, model to model, year to year. The dimensions on your rifle may not have been as close to those of the HK stub as mine were.
IDK what you mean by the hole i made doesn't line up with my description, it clearly did and clearly worked. So clarification on that comment would be appreciated.
This wasn't intended to be a end all be all how-to of this process. I couldn't locate any instruction of any kind when this was made. Hence the reason I made this in the first place. Its intended to be basic guidelines for those comfortable and skilled enough to perform the process. While getting their own measurements on the samples they have on hand and work out the kinks associated with their own examples. Its part of the reason I haven't gone back and given exact measurements after relocating the HK stub section ( insert your last paragraph here). I apologize if all this wasn't made clear in the video.
Much has changed since this video was (originally) made 10yrs ago. Parts availability has changed considerably, available instruction for another and the ATF's flip flopping on the necessity of the entire process are 3 examples.
I am trying to install a mag paddle release on a SAR 8. The welded on shelf seems smaller in height than the PTR so measuring .605 from center of mag release pin hole would put the drill location on the welded upper sloped edge of the bottom plate. Another issue is trying to figure out how the contact piece goes on. Also the original pinned push button knob has an extended tube on it. It appears that would need to be cut off as it will not go on the shift along with the new contact piece. This is getting complicated....can anyone help please??
Nice work. It shows that a guy doesn't need a machine shop to get the job done. I've done enough shade tree machining to believe I could pull this off thanks to you. :) It is always nice to see someone else go first, pave the way, and document it the process. My SAR-3/8 needs this. :) My only issue is what to do with refinishing the areas of metal that will be exposed. I've no experience in refinishing a firearm.
Thanks. Getting ready to build my clone
Great job brother. Really want an H&K 91 and an MP5. Two of my grail guns...
Now you need the wide handguard with bipod, and carry handle. Later cetme I think is easier to do this cause it's just sheet metal welded over the pin hole. You did exactly what I thought you would do. It's what I would do
sweet! I wish I had the skills for this.
I was going to say I wish I had the balls to drill into my rifle. I;ll probably just send mine off.
@@coltcomphbar did you ever do it? I've been considering doing mine too but how much does it cost and who does a good job?
Do it yourself just take you time ther are many videos out ther to guide you
Thanks bro. I just got done installing one based on these videos.
A.C. Celik glad they where of some help.
Sweet. Having Bill Spring Field install mine. Don’t have the tools.
thanks for the video bud it was very helpful with my conversion
+Jon Hurley Glad I could help. I couldn't find much out there. No video "how to's". I went into this blind and thought the video could help others. Glad it did.
Very awesome mod brother. I love the Paddle mag release on that rifle.
Good video, very informative. Ignore the negative commenting trolls, rock on.
Just get anti rattle paddle release if you don't want to precisely adjust the depth of paddle inset. It keeps tension.
Good to know. Thanks for the input.
Looks good
Good job my man.
Thank you.
Great job
just completed this mod on my ptr91. overall not hard the only part that was a royal pain in the ass was grinding out the area that the leaver fits in. if you had the right tools it would make a big difference.
Hey bud im on the road for a while. I should be back home in about five weeks. What i did is buy the demilled cetme c ftom apex. It cost about 15 bucks
+Jon Hurley the mag release part came with everything you need exept the pin. if i temeber right the pin also came from apex. all the measurements came from the demilled part. good luck bud. cutting out the steal under the lip is a real pain in the ass. a drimel seemed to work best but your foing to go threw a few bits. there's no easy way to get to it
Nice job 👏
nice write up. paddle release is the only way to go!
Link to parts I need?
I am trying to install a mag paddle release on a SAR 8. The welded on shelf seems smaller in height than the PTR so measuring .605 from center of mag release pin hole would put the drill location on the welded upper sloped edge of the bottom plate. Another issue is trying to figure out how the contact piece goes on. Also the original pinned push button knob has an extended tube on it. It appears that would need to be cut off as it will not go on the shaft along with the new contact piece. This is getting complicated....can anyone help please??
Can someone explain why one could not run the original pin and diameter and such? With the semi-auto shelf sticking into the trigger housing and pack, there's already a block preventing the installation of full-auto parts... After all, it would be no different than a three-position safety on a semi-only trigger pack (i.e. S/1/A markings only function as S/1/1). Sure it looks full-auto, but it wouldn't function full-auto...
The Zorz why do they ban barrel importation if it has been installed on something automatic before? The barrel has nothing to do with making it a machine gun. I learned years ago to stop trying to make sense of senseless laws and even worse, illegal bureaucratic “rulings” and “determinations” from the ATF.
How did you determine the stop in the frame for. The paddle?
Wish I could see step by step of parts ordered , drill size used ,etc
Hit the drop down in the video description for most of that. If you are referring the the depth drilled when you say "stop in the frame". I just measured its thickness and taped the drill bit so I didn't go too far.
do you have a source to the whole parts kit for the paddle mag release? wanting to do this to my Cetme .308
parts for them online are scattered everywhere
Matthew www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/Mag-Catch-Assembly-c178.htm
Is it illegal to drill through both sides of the receiver to install the pivot pin? Is that the reason you didn't drill completely through that one side?
There was some debate on it, that's the reason this is a revised video. I'm playing it safe. Like many other things the ATF has flip flopped on it. It was fine if undersized, then it made it a machine gun, currently they are allowing guns with the full original setup with front pin, paddle catch and all to be imported. Maybe they will change their minds next week, declare them all a machine gun again and order all receivers to be collected and destroyed like they just did to Tommy Built G36 clones. Who knows?
having trouble removing pin that holds in mag release button. does it only go in/out 1 way?
I heard you can make a hole all the way thru now since the atf changed there stance on the situation.
I honestly can't keep up with the ATF's bullshit anymore. This is a "revised repost" video because of this exact topic.
TheBrackishCoast Are you gonna make a super revised repost :) ? Lol
@@theoneand0nly874 Life got real busy. I haven't made a video in several years. I think I'll let this one ride the way it is.
What did they change now? Jesus HK stuff is confusing. they have not been a consistent on what makes a semi auto G3 since the 60s!
@@therideneverends1697 First it was holes are fine. Then no hole through receiver or that makes it an MG, even though that hole and the shelf didn't affect it. I was initially told and under the impression that the undersized hole that couldn't accept a pin that supported the FCG was OK. Some said it still wasn't. To be safe I clarified in this repost about not going all the way through. Now, they are importing and selling guns off the shelf with the front pin and paddle in place like the original. HK stuff isn't confusing. Its a inanimate object. The indecisive ATF and their overreach, simultaneously acting as all three branches of government and constantly changing "rulings", "opinions" and legal definitions is what's confusing. Like them or not, the bumpstock ban is a perfect example of all of this. Its not legally defined as a gun, firearm, rifle or machinegun. No law changed. No legal definitions changed. No law banning them was passed. Yet here we are. Change by fiat. You can put a bump stock on a single action revolver and its now somehow a machine gun even though you would still have to manually cock the hammer for every shot. Sorry for the rant. Shit is beyond old at this point.
For an HK91, I would say send it to a smith known for their HK work.
I thought legally the hole can’t be over 1/8” and you need a pin with a bushing made inside the frame and it has to be a blind hole the other side of the reciever must not be drilled through. You can drill deep enough the pin sits in and the open end welded on. That’s my understanding bcos other wise if you install it to hk spec it is a mg folks be careful
Will this mod work if you have the steel clipped and pinned lower receiver?
Hubscharber I have no experience with metal trigger housings. That said......This mod. does not alter the dimensions of the receiver or the semi auto shelf. If the semi auto housing fits the receiver prior to the mod., it should fit the same after.
Yes it should since the clipped and pinned section is just decoration and is flat on the back. As long as it clear the steel block it should be fine.
Would you do this on a hk91? I'm debating if I should or not
I have the HK parts for the paddle but in California we CANNOT do this alteration!
I'll sell my kit for $30 shipped in a US Flat Rate Box With tracking number!
John Jason Chun SOLD! Oh wait, I live in CA too, damn!
John Jason Chun free men don’t ask
does doing this void PTR warranty? thanks
It shouldnt void anything because for a while you could send your gun back to ptr91 and have them install the paddle release and or have the rail section welded to the top of the receiver like their newer guns come with. It's obviously a pain in the ass because ptr stopped offering that service. Ptr moved about an hour from where I live here in SC. Im a gunsmith and dealer and I do offer the paddle magazine conversions on these types of rifles and handguns. From mp5 9mm, the 5.56 variants, and 308 versions including the cetme rifles. I dont do them for 40 caliber mp5 guns though as it has a different paddle assembly. I have done 5 of these guns and currently have 2 more to do along with some other custom builds. So I am a bit back logged. You can try to contact me on here or you can look me up on Facebook under this name. I'm the only Jonathan Hudson in Darlington SC that is a gunsmith. I havent upgraded the page in a long while but Hudson Arms is my company page on face book. Messenger on Facebook tends to work best. I cant really give a quote until I know more about your specific rifle and what parts I'll need other than the paddle conversion kit as some mag release bars arent comparable with the paddle and would need to be replaced with a bar that is. Until ptr moved here, as far as I know I was the only h&k delayed roller lock armorer in SC. Atleast I was the only one willing to take on the job that is a certified gunsmith.
Nice job,..
If you install the paddle release, can you still use the button release?
Yes you can still use the button or you can use the paddle
What were those measurements?
I did not have any instructions as to how this is done when I set out to do it. Sorry, I did not record my measurements. However, there is a link at the bottom of the video description I found later. They claim it is .605 down from the center of the mag catch hole. There are also other links and specs within that link.
where did you get the receiver section with the parts
RTG. They no longer have them but still have all the other stuff. The have the anti-rattle paddle. That wasn't available when I didi this mod. They also now have a drilling jig. It isn't cheap, But i suppose it would be easy to sell after you used it. www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/Mag-Catch-Assembly-c178.htm
Is this a Tac-Latch II?
No, they are original HK G3 parts that I removed from the receiver section in the video and the addition of the pin and bushing kit to keep it NFA compliant.
Right, I like it BUT it's a lot of work compared to the drop-in parts of the TL 2.
It's all in what you want. I wanted the original HK style. I can pop a few pins and have a modern setup or a old school G3 clone. From everything I've read the TL-2 is only a drop-in part for actual HK's, PTR's still require some modification (albeit less modification than the HK paddle). I did my own work, so the price for both would be about the same. I'm not going to tell anyone how to set up their rifle. Do what works best for you.
Or you can just buy the drill fixture.
www.gunbroker.com/item/860506021
That'll make it easy. I looked and found nothing 8yrs ago when the original video was made. Thanks.
I wish I could hear what your saying. Your mumbling like hell and your not loud enough.
Out of the 25,000 views the 2 versions of this video have had, you are the first to complain. Either way, the video description provides a step by step, text description of everything being performed and all tools needed. Sorry you are unhappy with the product I provided. I'd be happy to issue a refund......