Saw Flat and Saw Fast! Professional Band Sawmill Secret at Sawmill School
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Saw Flat and Saw Fast! Professional Band Sawmill Secret to Increase Your Speed and Quality at Sawmill SchoolProper band (blade) geometry and set are some secrets to increase your sawmill speed and quality.
Joe Maine (229) 563-1172 makes my bands for me, using WM Turbo Silvertip stock, 0.055" x 1.5". He is in Georgia but can ship anywhere.
Welcome to Hobby Hardwood Alabama - a real, professional sawmill lumber production business, ranked by a national website as producing the highest quality wood in Alabama, of about 45 different species. We are not a video company, but we are a real lumber company, and want to show others some of our money making and business sawmill techniques. This video is another example of sawmilling for our business, Hobby Hardwood, Alabama. We show how we mill logs, dry them and other things on our outdoor farm. We use our amazing fleet of hardware and tools, such as our custom New Holland Tractor, Wood-Mizer LT-70 sawmill, as well as our Cantek planers, Baker edgers, and SLR machines in action, operation, milling and while sawing logs to lumber. The Woodmizer LT Super 70 sawmill is the the biggest, fasted and most automatic bandsaw mill Woodmizer makes, with joystick control and Diesel engine. Very few sawmills are this fast, including Baker, Morgan, Harbor Freight, Cooks, Northern, Timber King, Norwood, Woodland, chainsaw mill, and Hudson. It’s not an Amish Sawmill, but the fastest and most modern band mill Wood-Mizer makes, and produces the best lumber wood for wood working projects and our lumber business. We also showcase our Nyle Kilns and air drying lumber techniques. Lots of tips and tricks to make sawing and drying easier for beginners and professional woodworkers to keep our sawmill turning trees and logs into gold instead of firewood. My buddy, Nathan Elliot, of Out of the Woods Sawmill, OTW, convinced me I needed to start filming our operation, so here goes. Someday I want to have as many followers as other sawmill videos on UA-cam, like Nathan and Outdoors With the Morgans. We show how to make money with your sawmill, and pass on our how-to tips and tricks for better sawmilling. Watch us use our sawmill, chainsaw mill, band saw, and bandsaw.
#WoodYoda,#sawmill, #planer, #woodworking,#lumberkiln, #HobbyHardwood
Joe Maine (229) 563-1172 makes my bands for me, using WM Turbo Silvertip stock, 0.055" x 1.5". He is in Georgia but can ship anywhere. The best I have used.
Go check us out on our other pages!
Mail Address: 237 Shady Trail, New Market, Al, 35761
Email for Business Inquires: HobbyHardwoodAlabama@gmail.com
OUR WEBSITE: www.hobbyhardw...
PRODUCTS WE USE: www.hobbyhardw...
FACEBOOK: / hobbyhardwoodalabama
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Joe Maine (229) 563-1172 makes my bands for me, using WM Turbo Silvertip stock, 0.055" x 1.5". He is in Georgia but can ship anywhere. These bands are welded and ground correctly, and are actually better than "factory" WM bands.
Have you ever rolled or flattened your blades that don't cut flat or straight? Usually if a blade is not cutting straight, the blade is not flat. What you are saying in this video is absolutely correct. I enjoy your videos and look forward to new ones. Have you been to the Paul Bunyan Show in Ohio? It's coming up next week Oct. 7,8,9th.
I watch a lot of sawmill videos, but this is the first time I've seen this information. Thank you.
Thank you!
Me too
This particular video was incredibly helpful. I've never been taught how to read my Sawmill as good as this video does.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Love your knowledge Robert, thanks for sharing. True gentleman, you are.
Thank you kindly
I greatly enjoy watching your new and previous videos. The smart sawyers are also watching and making grateful comments. The few random log sawing videos I do scan always wind up using a large brush to scrape off all of the sawdust between passes. Fools there be.
I am glad folks watch these and hopefully maybe learn something useful. I agree, it amazes me that these other video “sawmillers” don’t realize that as soon as they grab for the brush and wipe sawdust by hand, with a reasonably powered sawmill, they are simply announcing to the world they are not “pros”. I would think they would simply at least edit it out and not show it in their videos out of embarrassment, but they just don’t know. It would be like a self proclaimed expert race car driver making a video of driving a race car and then grinding the gears and stalling the engine, every single video, and not be embarrassed. It’s simply bad form. Oh well. Hey good to hear from you and thanks for commenting!
You just reduced everyones learning curve by years. Great video.
I appreciate that!
Totally agree with you!
Best video on the tube for learning to cut quality lumber!!!Keep them coming!!
Thanks, will do!
After looking at them pretty boards I would have to call that c-note. Thanks for sharing
Good call!
Your mill and your experience is an awesome combination so fast and perfect !
Thank you very much!
Just starting to understand my first mill(green monster wide) and while I don’t have the fully hydraulic mill I have learned more by listening to your videos than any where else I’ve researched,so,from my perspective please keep doing what you’re doing because I know I’m not the only person learning from your videos and I’m only a hobbyist but if I can get good enough I might cut for my neighbors,guess I said all that just to say this, I really appreciate it and thank you
Thanks! That means a lot to me.
Robert, I have learned so much from watching you and your videos. Thanks so much for educating us all.
Thank you!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Never looked at the rooster tail. Have had blades pop up on the end when dull. Have noticed little sawdust when cutting smaller logs fast. Diesel engines have enough torque to power through large logs. My 25 hp Kohler won't do that in large logs. This is now my favorite UA-cam channel 👍
Thanks for watching!
Your site showed up in my feed a couple of days ago and I have been binge watching ever since.
Bought my WoodMizer LT40 HD in 1991 and have been part time sawing for 30+ years but now feel like I was born yesterday. In my neck of the woods I am regarded as a sawmill expert but my face is red. You have raised the bar to the stratosphere. Thank you.
That’s a high compliment, indeed. I try to make the videos informative as well as entertaining. I’m still trying to figure out what people want to watch, but certainly, I try to show real world sawmill techniques that I use to make the best lumber possible.
I get better results when using the heavier bodied or thicker blades
I had good luck with Cooks Super sharp blades
I wont be using Lennox woodmaster anymore
There tooth set is almost always inconsistent
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with us
Have a blessed day
Yes, you are right. Heavier and thicker has better stability and less flex. I've used pretty much every band out there, the Cooks are pretty good.
Thanks for the straight forward lesson. Most people just babble and task to long to get to the point. Hobbyist, my mill will be here Friday. Thanks again
Glad to help. Good luck with the mill!
newbie with new MS really like the indepth of your videos. Most videos just show what they do, not how to troubleshoot-get better.
That’s one reason I started doing videos, most people sawing on UA-cam do not know what they are doing so can’t explain the techniques. There are some real good ones, but most are hacks that sell videos, not lumber. I also make these videos to educate new potential customers so when they get their lumber sawn by others, they will know what to expect and have an idea of how it should be done. If they see a sawmiller simply slicing logs like cheese, it’s a good indication they don’t know what they are doing.
Wow very helpful video. I appreciate you sharing your expertise. I am a relatively new Sawyer and this will help me a lot. Thank you Sir!!😊 Great videos!!
Glad it was helpful! I hope you watch some of the other's too, I try to put real tips and tricks in them, so folks can maybe learn something. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
Love your videos can’t wait for more! Best sawmilling on UA-cam thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
top man 👍🏻 thanks for all the knowledge. Best regards from Norfolk, England
My pleasure!
I enjoyed the whole video. I liked Robert's rant at the end. Thank you Mr. Milton!
You are very welcome!
Excellent instruction by an expert. Set your playback speed at 1.5x.
Thanks
Great video! I learned a thing or two from ya! But then I started learning from you a dozen years ago so.... ;)
Thanks! I watch your videos also! Keep them coming!
all about the blade!
Yes, it's what actually does the cutting. It has to be right.
Phenomenal amount of learning in this video. Thank you sir!!
Glad it was helpful!
Robert, that was a very informative video. Thank you for all the tips today.
Very welcome!
I´m curious what you think of the following situation:
You´re a hobby sawyer and you only need boards and beams type X for a small construction project.
Obviously, if you cut the logs how they want to be cut to create the highest quality lumber, that´s not just gonna be type X, but also type Y and Z, which you have no use for.
In that scenario, which _parameters_ would you take into consideration to make the choice between quality and quantity of usable lumber?
That is a great question, and I will make a video on the subject, because it's so important. In short, you should put the stress of the log and boards into the direction where it will not detract from the use of the lumber. For example, for studs, the stress needs to be put in the face direction, so although the faces may bow, the edges of the studs are straight, and so the sheetrock put on the wall will be straight and not have waves. Same thing with roof rafters, the stress needs to not be put in the edge direction simply because the edges of the boards are where the roof is attached, and curved edged rafters mean a wavy roof. Load bearing beams should always be center cut, one beam per log usually, unless the logs are huge. The side wood is used for siding or non structural wood.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama awesome! I'm looking forward to it
Thank you for the insights and an idea what i shall look at while playing around with my sawmill. Very much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
watched it again , very helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Another excellent educational video.
Thanks!
Thanks Robert..very informative...keep em comin
Thanks, will do!
Wonderful information in this video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info! Do you know what the FPM on your blade is? Also, how much tension do you run? I built a mill for up to 55" logs and have some dive and rise mainly around the knots, but I want to get a better cut!! And could learn a lot from folks like you!!
I don't know fpm, I have forgotten. I do however put about 3,000 lbs force on the blade to tension it.
I stopped a cut just last night because I seen the blade dive in a hickory log.. I'm changing the resharp blade to a new blade after my morning coffee
That’s good, I’m glad you were able to see it.
Great details, details are everything.
Thank you! Cheers!
Amen, great teaching!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Rob Love your Videos. Bought some wood from y'all today.
Yes, Thank you for both!
New sub for you! Nathan mentioned you in his last video. Lots of great info here that I’ll pass on! Take care, God bless!🙏✝️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good to see you here. Nathan is a good friend of mine, which video was it?
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama near his last my friend.
every once in a while i will bring the saw head back slowly without lifting it . if it hits the log you have a problem. but like you say the majority of problems come from the blade. like the sawdust exit thing, good vid. im in manitoba and have the norwood 38 . it cuts nice but no where close to the speed you are going
Greeting to Manitoba! Thanks for watching!
really good video where do you get your blade and what type do you like best?. that was like day and night first blade was not good at all.thank you for this video. take care, be safe and well.
I have now posted where I get my bands from in the top comment. Thanks for watching!
Love the video keep up the good work thanks for sharing
Thank you! Will do!
Great tips. I bought a saw mill thinking all the men on this Lazy Ass Ranch would be sawin up lumber all day long. Well, no, it's just me, the wife with big ideas and little hands! 😂
You speak the truth! Sawmills will run people off faster than asking them to break rocks with a sledgehammer. Sounds like your wife is a good partner, that's what makes sawing fun.
Thank you. That was an education in band blade performance. Can I receive 3 college credits for this video? Thank you again Robert for sharing your experience and expertise.
Of course!
Super helpful! Thanks
Thanks!
Very informative. Thank you.
Dave
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Robert . I learned some things to watch for.
Trimguy
Thanks for watching. Good to see you here!
Ok cool video but what blades are you using?
Standard Woodmizer Turbo 7's.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank you
The wonderful key of R Sharp... :)
That's a good one!
thank you . great video
You are welcome!
Robert, how much horsepower in your diesel? My LT40 Wide with 38hp Kohler can't keep up with your speed. Also, the first blade that you swapped out was one of the sample blades given to you? I will be looking for the rooster tail on my job tomorrow, 76 years old and still learning. Thanks for the lesson!
Yes, the first band was the sample and it was not good. I had an LT40 and it could cut nearly sawdust free bars with its maybe not as fast as with the LT-70, but it would still clip right along. A big thing is that a flat cutting LT-40 will cut faster than a crooked cutting LT-70 because a crooked cut will steal that much power. Remember in the video where I almost stalled the mill and I had to reduce speed significantly? That's how much power a crooked cutting band will rob. Thanks for watching!
Great video, I am learning alot from you, I do have a question, how much water do you run while sawing, and more water better or not, thanks,John
None, only diesel, two or three sprays per board from the Lubemizer turned dead slow.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank, funny I watched your video on this right after I sent you the message 😂 I will be switching to diesel. Thanks again
Okay so plade misalignment in a cut can also be speed related, to fast and you have wavey boards?
Yes, too fast and too slow is equally bad.
I learned something again. Obscourse, I would absolutely appreciate knowing the name of the website to purchase the blades that you do recommend.
I just found it in the comments 😅
Thanks!
Does your saw dust theory work on a manual saw? Speed control fluctuates. I get a lot of saw dust left behind, I thought it was normal
Ditto
Yes, I was able to do it on my first mill, a manual LT-15. However, it's just hard to feed at a steady and fast speed with a manual mill, and most manual mills don't quite have the HP to keep the band speed up, so band geometry is even more critical to maintain feed speed. Also, proper blade lube is important. Thanks for watching.
Great video! What are your favorite blades? Who does your resharp?
I have posted where I get them in the top pinned comment, and I do my own resharpening.
Very interesting
Thank you!
Great Channel, I got about 30 hours on my LT40…whats your blade tension set at ?
The LT40 and LT70 blade tensions are measure differently because they use different mechanisms. On my LT-40 I would set it to the highest recommended value and do not exceed it, or you'll put undue load on the main drive bearings, l motor side.
What are some other possibilities that can cause the chattering? With new bands I’m getting intermittent chattering along each cut.
Thanks
I’m going to do a video on that particular subject. The first question to identify the problem is “Does the chattering, called “washboard” go away when you speed up and reappear when you slow down?”
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I look forward to that video!
I played with the speed a little to no avail. It’ll be intermittent at the same speed
So fast his mill
It does pretty good, and thanks for watching!
Could I ask where did you get the (4) metal fingers that pull the boards when you finish a cut? I'm not sure what to call them...
Those are called “Dragback Fingers” and I have modified mine from stock Woodmizer configuration to make that more effective. I have a video on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
How much set do you run on the 7deg blades. I cut a lot of syp using 10 deg and 22set but still have a lot of sawdust. Mill is a LT40 with 24 hp
I generally run 22 as well, but one thing I've noticed in pine is that it is extremely important to have nearly zero pitch buildup on the band. It's got to be slick and shiny, but that is true on any band, but it's harder on some species, such as pine. I use diesel for lube, and a band should be shiny and clean to prevent spillage and residual sawdust. 10 deg takes a big bite, so they need to be fed very fast, as fast as you can without stalling the engine.
How do u get less sawdust? I run a 3/4 blade at 10 degrees almost all hardwood. Cuts good and flat but I do get a fair amount of sawdust on the boards, and tips? My mill is manual. Am I cutting to fast or slow?
You are cutting too slow. You should be able to feed so fast you can stall your mill. Don't do it of course, but you should be able to and still saw straight. It's a common misconception that sawing too fast causes waves, sawing too fast causes the engine to stall and the band to slo, which causes waves. The angle of the tooth regulates the speed at which you can saw, and the engine regulates the speed at which the band can run under load. If there is sawdust on the boards then it is due to spillage from around the teeth and gullet. On a manual mill, it is hard to advance fast enough to not have the sawdust spill form the band gullet. Of course it also depends on the band geometry as well. Normally, a 10 degree band is too aggressive for hardwood, and 7 degree is generally better, and will cut faster but takes more hp.
Robert, I have a LT50 and I use 1.25 bands. Not sure if I can switch to 1.50 or not. How critical do feel the width is? I have a Diesel engine.
I had a diesel LT40 and ran 1.25" bands with good results. So switching to 1.5" isn't nearly as beneficial as going to thicker bands first. For example, I hated the the .125" 0.045 thick WM Turbos, but the 1.25" 0.055" thick Turbos were my favorite bands. Thicker bands wont last as long but are much stiffer and cut much faster. Tanks for watching!
What blade do you prefer when cutting Hardwood
Generally, the best best bad profile for hardwood is a 7 degree, as thick as you can fit on your mill.
Are the electric motors on your larger milling equipment 3 phase? I hope to get to your level of production one of these days but I don't have access to 3 phase power. I don't really mind gas or diesel but I'd like to be able to set up in an enclosed building and I worry about fumes.
I don't have access to 3 phase either, I have to manufacture it using a 3 phase converters for the machines under 20hp and a big generator for the other stuff. Basically, a phase converter costs about $1,000 per 10 hp, so a 30 hp capacity costs about $3,000 and can run any combination of machines up to that amount. If you look up "American Rotary" on the web, they have the best converters on the market. You feed them from the start 220V of your existing panel, and are about the same draw as a clothes dryer or oven. Thanks for watching.
So to get that blade to cut correctly and have a straight rooster tail what is the solution, sharpness or set needs to be addressed?
Yes, it begins with the proper tooth angle, a good blade with correct and even set on both sides. Many do not, even fresh form the manufacturer. Certainly as a band gets duller, it will start to wander, and of course mill alignment is critical. Using the correct lube, the correct band tension, and even making sure the weld is ground and cambered correctly. Lots of ways to screw up a cut, but when things are correct, it's like a hot knife through butter.
Yes the mill has to be set up correctly. The blade needs to be set and sharp. Finally the blade has to be flat. I have friends that throw blades away because they saw in a wave. I'll roll them or flattened them and they will saw flat. You have to see the first reaction the blade has. Does it dive first or rise in the cut. That determines which side to roll.
Hi Robert, my feed rate is slower than yours and i run 1.5" magnums, but if it works for you...
I know youre a woodmizer guy, but have you learned any of your knowledge on this topic from the cooks?
Sure, I've run Cooks bands, they are very similar to the new WM 747 bands, both high have extremely sharp teeth tips. With the very sharp tips, sawdust spillage is more of a problem, so it's even more imperative to saw fast, to try to hold the sawdust in the sir in the gullet. When I resharpened the Cooks, I would reduce the set to reduce the drag to get my speed up. I've tried pretty much every band out there, from WM, Cooks, Kasco, generic, dedusters, etc.
How do you know if you have a new blade that isn't correct for your wood, saw, speed ect or if you have an adjustment issue?
For the most part, if the sawmill is aligned correctly, with the wrong or bad band, then it will be trying to pull the band back to flat and stable sawing, but the band won't allow it. If the mill isn't aligned correctly it will be trying to push the band further out of alignment. If you push the mill and the band cuts straight but bogs the mill, then alignment is correct and the band is wrong. You should always be able to cut to the hp limit of the mill.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank you. That helps a lot.
Which blade would you recommend for a Lt 40 with a 24 hp. Onan
Depends on the wood, but probably I’d start with a standard 7 degree, (not Turbo) in 0.045 inch thick. Thanks for watching!
Wish i had seen this before i borrowed my buddies norwood. seems the blade was much of the problem as anything else. (and there were a lotta issues with that old norwood. but beggars cant be choosers ;)
Just have to use what you have!
Would be nice to know the blade you had that was working well . I understand not telling us the one that was performing poor .
I put it up in the top comment. It's a WM Silvertip band, it's a resaw band, nothing particularly special about it.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank you
what size width blade do you use 95% of your production ?
100% of the time I will use Silvertip Turbo 7/39 x .055 thick x 1.5" wide. I have tried pretty much every other band out there, by most manufacturers, and some send me theirs for free. None are better.
that blade you just mentioned I ordered from Joe Maine. a while back. I will have to finish up all my 1 1/4"before I slap those on. Looking forward to running them.@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Sounds like E flat to me.
That's a fitting note, would stand for "EFlat, Excellent and Flat" cut.
"You're supposed to be a professional" 😅😂
Yeah, I get so may complaints from people who have had wood sawn by other sawmills because they get back garbage that looks like potato chips, all thick and thin, nasty stuff. It gives the small time sawmiller a bad rap, and most times it comes down to using blades for way too long, way too dull, and just not caring. Very frustrating, and that's the subject of this "Robert's Rant." Thanks for watching.
Hi just subscribed to you I do some sawmill videos and Ernie a subscriber and friend to my channel recommended to come watch your channel I run the woodmizer Lt70 thank you for sharing very informative
Nice! I watch some of your videos and have subscribed to you! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for subscribing I really enjoy your videos I hadnt had time to watch many but they are really informative
U act like that always fixes it, just change the blade! What sir, would i do if it weren't?
You would need to do a mill alignment check. The band only fixes the problem if the mill is dialed in and aligned correctly. If a mill won’t cut straight at moderate operating speeds with a default band, then there can be any number of mill issues, including wrong head tilt, incorrect band tilt, bad or misaligned roller guide, general band wheel issues, drive belt tension not correct, band tension not correct, incorrect band set, etc. In my videos I cut fast and push the quality and geometry of the band to its limits, and if the band isn’t perfect, I’ll find out.
This is very professional advice, all Sawyers need to be watching your videos.
Now I know who Nathan's mentor is!
I will be watching much more religiously!
Thank you for your experience & knowledge of milling sir!🧡🧡💪👍🌲🪵
I appreciate that! Yeah, Nathan, Out of the Woods, and I talk regularly. He calls me the Wood Yoda and is the one who talked me into making videos. I'm not usually green and I'm 6'4" tall so don't really look like Yoda, but the name has stuck.