Great video, mine has just died, I’ve watched your video and taken it apart and now just waiting for the replacement batteries. I’ve also managed to order some spare solder tabs from EBay for a couple of British Pounds just in case. Total cost is £14, a replacement battery would be £125. Many thanks.
Hi. Great video. Can I just ask - did you use a soldering iron for this or a spot welder. I'm slightly worried about blowing up. I would be grateful if you could explain the soldering process a little more. Thanks - Steve
If you are going to spend the time doing this, invest in Nitecore 18650 3500 mAh, I have used these for two years , I have used others. These are the best out there, you can tell by their weight alone. But they are $20 each, that's $80, but your run time will be increased incredibly. I believe the ones that you suggest are 2500 mAh . That's 4000 mAh extra. So from 10,000 - 14,000 . And their cells are top quality.
@@ctxprospector8883 I use Andy Sabisch's program, it goes through a battery at a healthy rate. More than the Indians and silver program. At least it seems like that. I will time it at some point.
Recycled power tool 18650 batteries have 50 to %100 more capacity, but you need to be able to determine their capacity, or just buy high output batteries
I like the craftiness of this project. I just replaced my 4 batteries, and checked my pin-to-pin voltages against a good battery, and the rebuilt battery pack and the functional battery pack have the same voltages. My only issue is that I get a flashing red/green power light on the BC 10, when I put the rebuilt battery on the charger. I suspect, that since this happens immediately upon inserting the battery into the charger, that possibly a faulty temp sensor circuit on the PCB may be causing the rapid flash. Has anyone run across this either before or after cell replacement? Just curious what could be triggering the rapid flash. Thanks for your thoughts! UPDATE - Left rebuilt battery on the charger for a couple hours, and came back to find the power button solid green and the charging light solid green. Not sure exactly what happened here, but I will follow up on subsequent charging sessions.
also is it worth getting more capacity as i see some with same model designation www.ebatterys.co.uk/4-x-panasonic-3400mah-lithiumion-battery-cell-18650-p-33987.html?cPath=47296&zenid=m9a2t7fqaqnsi9hdh2iqvngsp6
The metal strips are “Tac” soldiered so the strip is indented into the battery slightly by some mechanical method. For that reason, I’m not sure one would be able to simply de-soldier the metal strips with out using a physical means to pry the metal strips off. You could try applying heat “while” prying - that may be a good combo! HH - Thx! Jason
I’d say more capacity would always be favored! Believe the stock were 2200 mAh and those I swapped in were 2250 mAh. So not much difference there. I wouldn’t see why 3400 mAh’s wouldn’t work great as long as the voltage is the same. 👍🏻
CTX Prospector I did mine with the 3400s worked fine my original minelabs had Chinese batteries had big issues with strips I ended up soldering wires instead
Very cool Pistonspy! Nice on the 3400 cells - those should hold a charge for many hours with the CTX. Pretty sweet to be able to swap the cells. Sure beats the $150 price tag of a new OEM battery pack for inferior cells. Make the cost of owner ship a little lower! Yes - I can see just soldiering wire instead - nice mod! HH - Jason
Can u get the ribbon off to work with it easier? Minelab told me if you remove it , or remove the batteries you’ll damage the unit? Looks like u got to the batt without issue, that’s why I’m asking can u remove the ribbon.
That's a huge saving! Couldn't you just heat the solder up on the old batteries to pop off those connecting ends instead of using a sharp screwdriver? I don't know why this has duplicated because I only typed it once???
You can heat the solder but the metal strips are also "stamped" into the OEM cells. At least there were with mine so it took a mechanical means to pull the metal strips away from the cells anyway. I just didn't want to risk over heating the Li-ion cells and have one explode. So I was careful to use just enough heat as necessary to solder the new cells in.
I watched this video and took my failing battery pack apart. Left it for over a year without use and it wouldn't charge. So, having taken all four cells out I put them into my vape and they each showed me they were at 55%. This was alongside the origonal vape cell which shows at 100%. Doesnt make sense to me, so I'll charge them inside the vape to. 100% then try to rebuild the pack so I can see if they power the ctx.
I'm in the process to dismantle two faulty packs and your doubt about battery charge is relevant...Lot of times you can pull out good scrap cells from laptop batteries cause they only need to be properly recharged and can survive for years.So the first test after removing the original pack from nickel tabs will be to separately charge the cells on by one.If the voltage reach 4.2V for each cell, you don't even need to destroy the original one and can solder again the same exact pack back to the pod with new nickel tabs...
Hey Randy! Because they were "tap" soldiered in production so the metal strips were somewhat "dented" into the battery surfaces. I was also not keen on applying heat as long as it takes to un-soldier the connections as the batteries are Li-on. I just found it safer and just as easy to use the screwdriver method. You many find un-soldiering your best way to tackle getting the metal strips off - theres's not right or wrong - just what you prefer. Just take your time and make sure to get the "+" and "-" connections right! Happy Hunting Randy!! Thanks for the Sub! - Jason
Jason, very fine video. I'm going to try that on my dead battery. I too purchased a replacement but to have a backup would be great. Just subbed your Channel. FloridaRob......I just purchased the 4 cells on eBay from your link. $11.99 with free shipping. Thanks bud.
Ok, just finished replacing the batteries. Success with a little headache. I want to warn you about an issue I had. The hard part was removing the old batteries. I pulled and tugged on them so much that I actually broke the ribbon wire that connects them to the circuit board. Did not realize it until the battery would not charge. Once I found that I had broken The Wire, I was able to solder it back together and then everything worked fine. Great video for replacing them, just be cautious about that ribbon wire.
@@FloridaRobTreasureHunting It seems that the batteries are joined in series and parallel which doubles the voltage to 3.6 x 2 = 7.2 and the amperage to 2 x 2250mAh = 4500mAh. My opinion to make things much easier is to use 2 sets of these battery packs and join them parallel with the existing wire leads and join the remaining positive and negative wires to the leads off the circuit board. Please see goo.gl/RuYgRH When you coming to Colchester?
@@Yakena1 thanks for the extra info. I'm booked again for Colchester in September of 2020. I'm may go in the fall of this year but have not decided yet.
Hello R. Nelson - I haven't any experience with the XP Deus but it seems like those that have them have great success. Not sure how they work in Saltwater. The CTX-3030 I went to after using the Garrett AT-PRO for about a month. Knew I was hooked on metal detecting and purchased the CTX. I've never regretted the decision, the machine offers a lot. Like any detector, once you learn the machine it becomes a metal detecting extension of yourself - like any tool you use a lot. It has worked flawlessly - it's consistent and in my opinion is a joy to use. It's heavier that some others but it's balanced very well. It shines in saltwater, very stable. I love the ferrous and conductive numbers. I love the screen and wireless audio. The GEOhunt feature I use more that I thought I would - and it's not an additional purchase. My heart is with Minelab but ALL machines will help you find great finds. HH - let me know what you decide! - Jason
Where will you be using it? Beach = ctx 3030, parks = deus. I have both. The deus coil does not send a signal thru even shallow water so you would need a waterproof kit with the antenna that twists up the shaft if you plan on putting the deus coil into water. Other thing to consider ctx = bulky, deus = compact. Ctx can use rechargeable or regular batteries. Deus recharge only, coil cannot be turned off and light blinks regularly. Hope this helps.
Thanks DaemonLlama - Good points for sure. Yes, the CTX is one of the larger treasure machines out there but it is very well balanced thank goodness. I find it easier to swing them my AT-PRO backup -that is in the wrist. I've not yet used a deus. Thank you and Happy Metal Detecting! - Jason
Definitely not as easy as you make it look and I’ve soldered quite a few times. To make things way easier I desoldered the five pins so I can actually pull out the entire battery, much easier to work with. I literally just finished and my new battery is on the charger, hesitant to pop it in my $2,500 ctx 😂
I made the change and it works. After 6 years I tried it. thank you. Do it very carefully or use a spot welder.
Great video, mine has just died, I’ve watched your video and taken it apart and now just waiting for the replacement batteries. I’ve also managed to order some spare solder tabs from EBay for a couple of British Pounds just in case. Total cost is £14, a replacement battery would be £125.
Many thanks.
Fyi.. 18650 batteries are available at any vape shop as well.
Thank you Iffy! Good info! 👍🏻🔋🔋
What is a vape shop?
@@packmantreasures4687 Is google down?
Hi. Great video. Can I just ask - did you use a soldering iron for this or a spot welder. I'm slightly worried about blowing up. I would be grateful if you could explain the soldering process a little more. Thanks - Steve
My 3030 was just fine then suddenly, it charges all night but never shows completely charged. It runs for right at 2 hours and then dies.
If you are going to spend the time doing this, invest in Nitecore 18650 3500 mAh, I have used these for two years , I have used others. These are the best out there, you can tell by their weight alone. But they are $20 each, that's $80, but your run time will be increased incredibly. I believe the ones that you suggest are 2500 mAh . That's 4000 mAh extra. So from 10,000 - 14,000 . And their cells are top quality.
Good to know Bob - I still get more hours out of these cheapies than I can swing in one day. 6-8+ hours with GPS off.
@@ctxprospector8883 I use Andy Sabisch's program, it goes through a battery at a healthy rate. More than the Indians and silver program. At least it seems like that. I will time it at some point.
Recycled power tool 18650 batteries have 50 to %100 more capacity, but you need to be able to determine their capacity, or just buy high output batteries
Hi dude can only find the 2250 mah batteries and not the 2225.would they be suitable
I like the craftiness of this project. I just replaced my 4 batteries, and checked my pin-to-pin voltages against a good battery, and the rebuilt battery pack and the functional battery pack have the same voltages. My only issue is that I get a flashing red/green power light on the BC 10, when I put the rebuilt battery on the charger. I suspect, that since this happens immediately upon inserting the battery into the charger, that possibly a faulty temp sensor circuit on the PCB may be causing the rapid flash. Has anyone run across this either before or after cell replacement? Just curious what could be triggering the rapid flash. Thanks for your thoughts! UPDATE - Left rebuilt battery on the charger for a couple hours, and came back to find the power button solid green and the charging light solid green. Not sure exactly what happened here, but I will follow up on subsequent charging sessions.
Great information would you be better to desolder the old strips off instead of screwdriving it?
also is it worth getting more capacity as i see some with same model designation www.ebatterys.co.uk/4-x-panasonic-3400mah-lithiumion-battery-cell-18650-p-33987.html?cPath=47296&zenid=m9a2t7fqaqnsi9hdh2iqvngsp6
The metal strips are “Tac” soldiered so the strip is indented into the battery slightly by some mechanical method. For that reason, I’m not sure one would be able to simply de-soldier the metal strips with out using a physical means to pry the metal strips off. You could try applying heat “while” prying - that may be a good combo! HH - Thx! Jason
I’d say more capacity would always be favored! Believe the stock were 2200 mAh and those I swapped in were 2250 mAh. So not much difference there. I wouldn’t see why 3400 mAh’s wouldn’t work great as long as the voltage is the same. 👍🏻
CTX Prospector I did mine with the 3400s worked fine my original minelabs had Chinese batteries had big issues with strips I ended up soldering wires instead
Very cool Pistonspy! Nice on the 3400 cells - those should hold a charge for many hours with the CTX. Pretty sweet to be able to swap the cells. Sure beats the $150 price tag of a new OEM battery pack for inferior cells. Make the cost of owner ship a little lower! Yes - I can see just soldiering wire instead - nice mod! HH - Jason
Thank You friend,you have the touch👌👌👌😍😍🌴🌴greetings from Chile,South America🇨🇱
WARNING if you aren't good at soldering don't attempt to solder lithium ion batteries, it's really not recommended.
Thanks this is very refreshing info. cheers from Cali.
Absolutely Explortheaarth! cheers from Michigan!
Can u get the ribbon off to work with it easier? Minelab told me if you remove it , or remove the batteries you’ll damage the unit? Looks like u got to the batt without issue, that’s why I’m asking can u remove the ribbon.
Would it just be 2 of the 18650 batteries being 3.7V each at 3400mAh? Or do I do 4 of them? I don't want to cook my machine.
Hello Tim - You would be replacing the same number of “cells” which is 4 cells. 👍🏻 Happy Hunting!
Do you know if a higher than 2250mAh would work , maybe hold longer charge or would it be better to just use that one
do you know if the 18650 batterys have to be protected type?
I'm not sure, I've been using them in my CTX now since the video was uploaded without issue.
Amazing thanks for teaching as..congratulation
That's a huge saving! Couldn't you just heat the solder up on the old batteries to pop off those connecting ends instead of using a sharp screwdriver?
I don't know why this has duplicated because I only typed it once???
You can heat the solder but the metal strips are also "stamped" into the OEM cells. At least there were with mine so it took a mechanical means to pull the metal strips away from the cells anyway. I just didn't want to risk over heating the Li-ion cells and have one explode. So I was careful to use just enough heat as necessary to solder the new cells in.
CTX Prospector. Very wise. Many thanks for the fast reply and explanation. Makes sense now. Cheers.
the original connections are micro-welded. Not soldered. i just broke off the connections and soldered wires in the same fashion.
Great Video just Subbed you ! Greatings from Bavaria Germany !
I must have missed something, I didn't see you attach them to the circuit board
Hello Roger! - I used a 15 Watt iron to solder the contact points. It’s tedious but doable. 👍🏻
mine just died .. have the LGDBHE21865 spare from a hitachi 18v so im going to try them the voltage is correct just higher amp rating they should work
I watched this video and took my failing battery pack apart. Left it for over a year without use and it wouldn't charge.
So, having taken all four cells out I put them into my vape and they each showed me they were at 55%. This was alongside the origonal vape cell which shows at 100%.
Doesnt make sense to me, so I'll charge them inside the vape to. 100% then try to rebuild the pack so I can see if they power the ctx.
How did it work Ross?
I'm in the process to dismantle two faulty packs and your doubt about battery charge is relevant...Lot of times you can pull out good scrap cells from laptop batteries cause they only need to be properly recharged and can survive for years.So the first test after removing the original pack from nickel tabs will be to separately charge the cells on by one.If the voltage reach 4.2V for each cell, you don't even need to destroy the original one and can solder again the same exact pack back to the pod with new nickel tabs...
Can someone tell me how many hours they get on their battery I get 9 to 10 hours on a full charge on my CTX 3030
That's about right. I never let mine run out of juice. After a full days use I charge it.
Thanks for replying
Can’t you use a soldering iron to remove the metal strips?
Yes - I used a 15 watt iron without issue.
Thanks. Great information
Good deal Hector! Glad to pass my findings along! HH - Jason
Why didn't you un-solder the connections on the battery as apposed to pulling the connections off?
Hey Randy! Because they were "tap" soldiered in production so the metal strips were somewhat "dented" into the battery surfaces. I was also not keen on applying heat as long as it takes to un-soldier the connections as the batteries are Li-on. I just found it safer and just as easy to use the screwdriver method. You many find un-soldiering your best way to tackle getting the metal strips off - theres's not right or wrong - just what you prefer. Just take your time and make sure to get the "+" and "-" connections right! Happy Hunting Randy!! Thanks for the Sub! - Jason
Ciao ragazzi ho acquistato il metal CTX 30-30 minelab è nn riesco a impostarlo per spiaggia mi potete agliutare
Ciao, premi il pulsante centrale e scorri in modalità "Spiaggia". Premere di nuovo il tasto centrale per selezionare. In bocca al lupo!! Jason
Hey randy grazie tanto ma nn riesco a impostare le discriminazione nn mi potresti mandare un video sù whatsapp questo è il mio numero +393441488789
Can someone tell me how many hours you get on your CTX 3030 on one charge
Any other websites?
Jason, very fine video. I'm going to try that on my dead battery. I too purchased a replacement but to have a backup would be great. Just subbed your Channel. FloridaRob......I just purchased the 4 cells on eBay from your link. $11.99 with free shipping. Thanks bud.
Ok, just finished replacing the batteries. Success with a little headache. I want to warn you about an issue I had. The hard part was removing the old batteries. I pulled and tugged on them so much that I actually broke the ribbon wire that connects them to the circuit board. Did not realize it until the battery would not charge. Once I found that I had broken The Wire, I was able to solder it back together and then everything worked fine. Great video for replacing them, just be cautious about that ribbon wire.
@@FloridaRobTreasureHunting It seems that the batteries are joined in series and parallel which doubles the voltage to 3.6 x 2 = 7.2 and the amperage to 2 x 2250mAh = 4500mAh. My opinion to make things much easier is to use 2 sets of these battery packs and join them parallel with the existing wire leads and join the remaining positive and negative wires to the leads off the circuit board. Please see goo.gl/RuYgRH
When you coming to Colchester?
@@Yakena1 thanks for the extra info. I'm booked again for Colchester in September of 2020. I'm may go in the fall of this year but have not decided yet.
Отлично. Спасибо за отличный обзор
On the fence between 3030 and deus any advice
Hello R. Nelson - I haven't any experience with the XP Deus but it seems like those that have them have great success. Not sure how they work in Saltwater. The CTX-3030 I went to after using the Garrett AT-PRO for about a month. Knew I was hooked on metal detecting and purchased the CTX. I've never regretted the decision, the machine offers a lot. Like any detector, once you learn the machine it becomes a metal detecting extension of yourself - like any tool you use a lot. It has worked flawlessly - it's consistent and in my opinion is a joy to use. It's heavier that some others but it's balanced very well. It shines in saltwater, very stable. I love the ferrous and conductive numbers. I love the screen and wireless audio. The GEOhunt feature I use more that I thought I would - and it's not an additional purchase. My heart is with Minelab but ALL machines will help you find great finds. HH - let me know what you decide! - Jason
Where will you be using it? Beach = ctx 3030, parks = deus.
I have both. The deus coil does not send a signal thru even shallow water so you would need a waterproof kit with the antenna that twists up the shaft if you plan on putting the deus coil into water. Other thing to consider ctx = bulky, deus = compact. Ctx can use rechargeable or regular batteries. Deus recharge only, coil cannot be turned off and light blinks regularly. Hope this helps.
Thanks DaemonLlama - Good points for sure. Yes, the CTX is one of the larger treasure machines out there but it is very well balanced thank goodness. I find it easier to swing them my AT-PRO backup -that is in the wrist. I've not yet used a deus. Thank you and Happy Metal Detecting! - Jason
Hope you have not made the purchase yet I have the Xp Deus and I have a CTX 3030 I do not think there’s a better machine out there then the CTX 3030
I have both the CTX and the Deus, it’s the Deus I grab first every time, quicker, sharper and a lot lighter.
Good job!
Thank you Ohio! Happy Hunting!!! - Jason in Michigan! Subbed!!
Great video thank you!
Great video....just subbed
Thank-you!
Definitely not as easy as you make it look and I’ve soldered quite a few times. To make things way easier I desoldered the five pins so I can actually pull out the entire battery, much easier to work with. I literally just finished and my new battery is on the charger, hesitant to pop it in my $2,500 ctx 😂
😂😂😂 hot glue gun solder iron solder batteries and you did that for 15 dollars no way 😂😂😂😂 more like 100 😂😂😂