Ideally... To get consistent 1.75mm... You need to start with a larger extruding nozzle (3mm or bigger). Then, stretch it to 1.75mm under hot water (above 60*C). Then, cool it with cold water (under 40*C) to "fix it" at the right diameter. The "hot water" should be above the glass transition temperature of your plastic. It will allow for a more gradual stretching and precise diameter control. You should avoid any pulley, stretcher pulley, or any direct contact with the fillament until it is below 40*C down to the core. Otherwise, you will flatten it and it won't be perfectly spherical. For the above reasons, the filament gauge and the pulley stretcher cannot be between the two bath UNLESS it is a non touching gauge (laser). Otherwise, it is best advised to put theses equipments after the colder bath. Alexandre Valiquette, analytical chemistry technician from Québec, Canada
Just a thought, If the water bath was closer to the nozzle it would solidify without stretching as much. In large extruder setups the nozzle is usually in the bath so it basically molten on one side and solid on the other
Yeah I've come to the same conclusion. I think the nozzle needs to be closer to the water bath. The problem is that there isn't enough clearance for the hoses to bend that much. I am going to see if I can find some 90 degree fittings to solve the problem.
Excellent work! You can always adjust filament diameter on your 3d printer settings for whatever run of filament you are using as long as its consistent. If the accuracy of that filament is good and your hobbed bolt on the extruder can cinch it there's no reason it's not usable immediately.
Seems like you can leave the nozzle hole big and just control the filament thickness by how fast you pull the melted plastic out. Which is awesome because it's in the software.
Hey, I need to build a water tank and an automatic spooling machine for work. I know its to help consistent filament and roundness. But that's about all I know. Are there any details or tips you have from your building/research process that you think is important to know? Is the length of the water tank important? Water temperature? Any unexpected problems you ran into along the way?
Great Work! I made a similar extruder at home but I have a huuuge problem, when I try to extrude PLA filament (the only type of plastic I have tested so far) I get a lot of bubbles on the filament, which render the filament useless. What did you do to avoid this problem? I tried adding a mesh filter to the nozzle (a brass water tap) but it didn't make much difference.
Thanks a lot for your response. Right at this moment, I was playing around with different temperatures and motor speeds and finally found the perfect balance to produce perfect filament. I'm jumping around my bedroom in happiness :D I also removed the mesh filter I had added before, and it seems like the filament is getting extruded much better than before, so the filter is probably not that necessary.
Update: While my filament no longer has bubbles in it, I still haven't found the right speed/temp/nozzle-diameter balance to have acceptable tolerances for 1.75mm filament.
The only time I get bubbles is when I have the drill bit spinning too fast. I am kinda in the same boat on trying to find the magic numbers to make make 1.75mm filament.
Great progress! Great work! That stretching is probably hard to control, to get a consistent filament. How about letting the filament go in a bow from the water bath to the pulling wheels, maybe pass over something just after the water bath? Then you can have some detectors that increase the speed of the pulling wheels when it hitting a lower mark, and increase when hitting a higher mark. You could use micro switches to detect the high and low marks between the water bath and the pulling wheels. But I have no experience with this. I am just impressed of your work. About the cooling system? Are water that good? Will that not make the 3D printing harder if you get water in the filament? I can be wrong in this though.
Is the auger motor speed controlled? I have seen a few videos of businesses that make this stuff and the general setup is the same I wonder if they use something like that or have a machine afterwards that stretches or rolls the filament into spec.
What polymer you using? If you use PLA it is because you need to cool that slowly. If you put PLA into cold water it will collapse. Use warmer water first.
Very cool project! Subscribed, and excited to watch more of your progress. Have you ever considered using ground-down recycled PLA to print? I'm having trouble with extruding at a constant rate with custom grind plastic flakes.
so you buy a raw plastic and turn it into filament ? why you don't use wasted filament ? i hope you finish your project and make it more smaller and i hope you get the 1.75 mm filament
Because that would add a level of difficulty to the project. It's much easier to extrude the pellets and that didn't work too well. So there is no since trying waste plastic. Maybe when I work on Version 2 it will be possible to try some waste plastic. Thanks for watching!
Very nice, as shops are now trying to dump their 3mm stock in favour of 1.75mm it would be handy to be able to heat/extrude down to that size. I picked up 1000m of 3mm PLA for just under £10 on ebay, might just change the print head but being able to make your own would be a nice side project.
Hello, This looks great ! Please tell me what motor do you use? I have a filament extruder but i can't decide on the motor, i currently test a car wiper motor. And what diameter is your nozzle?
fantastic work there, Bob! :D It's amazing that you can build something from parts like that, chuck pellets in one end and get filament out the other :P
You might get something out of this. Pro DIY garage. ua-cam.com/video/OEkksADFjP8/v-deo.html Or this guy who makes beams out of plastic ua-cam.com/video/zNGuuSKE1pY/v-deo.html Or these guys who mix saw dust with it and some other bonding agents to make a modified wood. ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=modwood
looking good bob!!!! yes I strech my filiment to the right size. seems to work best that way. !! good luck! you know where to find me for questions. :) ~russ
Incorrect diameter filament isn't unusable, you should always adjust print settings from 1.75/3mm to whatever it actually reads (averaged over several points) on a digital caliper. Consistency of diameter in a continuous run is what's important, less so overall diameter - unless you're planning on doing high speed/big nozzle high output printing & need to push more filament than could be handled if it's diameter's too small. Good video though!
Very nice progress! Maybe that waterbath could be reprinted to be a little longer? That way water would not splash out as much! If you need someone with a bigger printbed you could ask Jerry a.k.a. bernecules nerdgasm, or James from xrobots.co.uk, i am sure both of them would be glad to help out! Looking forward to future videos of the Extruder, really interesting stuff!
Or add one or two more draining hoses in the outer water bath? You don't need any water there, so just drain it. The problem with the upper water bath would be easy to fixed too. Just make some more drain holes just above your upper water limit in the long side. But they must be higher than the water level you want, so the water level still are high enough to cover the inlet and outlet for the filament. But anything above that could just be drained of by some holes in the side of the can. Than the pump can go as fast as it wants. :-)
Ideally... To get consistent 1.75mm...
You need to start with a larger extruding nozzle (3mm or bigger).
Then, stretch it to 1.75mm under hot water (above 60*C).
Then, cool it with cold water (under 40*C) to "fix it" at the right diameter.
The "hot water" should be above the glass transition temperature of your plastic. It will allow for a more gradual stretching and precise diameter control.
You should avoid any pulley, stretcher pulley, or any direct contact with the fillament until it is below 40*C down to the core. Otherwise, you will flatten it and it won't be perfectly spherical.
For the above reasons, the filament gauge and the pulley stretcher cannot be between the two bath UNLESS it is a non touching gauge (laser). Otherwise, it is best advised to put theses equipments after the colder bath.
Alexandre Valiquette, analytical chemistry technician from Québec, Canada
Yeah I've learned alot since building this project. I'm thinking about trying again with improvements and suggestions form viewers. Thanks!
@@MakingStuff May you please share with me,if i want a filament of 1.75mm,what should be the noozzle size to achieve this result?
@@MakingStuff can we get for dummies plan pdf I really want to make one of these I just love making something that would otherwise be trash...
@@mwambepauline8436 Alexandre literally just told you.. in the first line of his comment... smh
By far the most comprehensive video on diy filament extruders on youtube. Great job.
Thanks 👍
dude u just made like a factory. that's so legit
Like the water bath. Filament extruder is next on my list for my laboratory!
Just a thought, If the water bath was closer to the nozzle it would solidify without stretching as much. In large extruder setups the nozzle is usually in the bath so it basically molten on one side and solid on the other
Yeah I've come to the same conclusion. I think the nozzle needs to be closer to the water bath. The problem is that there isn't enough clearance for the hoses to bend that much. I am going to see if I can find some 90 degree fittings to solve the problem.
Very cool. How will you set up the caliper? I would attach ball bearings to the measurement edges with a weak tensioning spring.
Next video will show caliper setup. I'm pretty much doing it the same way Russ did.
Excellent work! You can always adjust filament diameter on your 3d printer settings for whatever run of filament you are using as long as its consistent. If the accuracy of that filament is good and your hobbed bolt on the extruder can cinch it there's no reason it's not usable immediately.
Seems like you can leave the nozzle hole big and just control the filament thickness by how fast you pull the melted plastic out. Which is awesome because it's in the software.
Put some links to the hardware in the description. So we can make it.
does it effect the quantity of filament
Hey, I need to build a water tank and an automatic spooling machine for work. I know its to help consistent filament and roundness. But that's about all I know. Are there any details or tips you have from your building/research process that you think is important to know? Is the length of the water tank important? Water temperature? Any unexpected problems you ran into along the way?
You should make a playlist of the extruder stuff
There is.
@@MakingStuff oh must have missed that, search did not give that result.
What's inside of extruder tube (contruction) ?
The only thing I remember aboout it is that the drill bit is 5/8 inch.
& use 'wood drill' in It ?
Looks good, it should be getting close to complete. The filament looks larger than 1mm, but I guess that could be an illusion. Thanks Bob.
Great Work! I made a similar extruder at home but I have a huuuge problem, when I try to extrude PLA filament (the only type of plastic I have tested so far) I get a lot of bubbles on the filament, which render the filament useless. What did you do to avoid this problem? I tried adding a mesh filter to the nozzle (a brass water tap) but it didn't make much difference.
I get bubbles if I run the motor too fast. So I just make sure that the speed isn't too fast.
Thanks a lot for your response. Right at this moment, I was playing around with different temperatures and motor speeds and finally found the perfect balance to produce perfect filament. I'm jumping around my bedroom in happiness :D
I also removed the mesh filter I had added before, and it seems like the filament is getting extruded much better than before, so the filter is probably not that necessary.
Update: While my filament no longer has bubbles in it, I still haven't found the right speed/temp/nozzle-diameter balance to have acceptable tolerances for 1.75mm filament.
The only time I get bubbles is when I have the drill bit spinning too fast. I am kinda in the same boat on trying to find the magic numbers to make make 1.75mm filament.
Great progress! Great work!
That stretching is probably hard to control, to get a consistent filament.
How about letting the filament go in a bow from the water bath to the pulling wheels, maybe pass over something just after the water bath? Then you can have some detectors that increase the speed of the pulling wheels when it hitting a lower mark, and increase when hitting a higher mark. You could use micro switches to detect the high and low marks between the water bath and the pulling wheels.
But I have no experience with this. I am just impressed of your work.
About the cooling system? Are water that good? Will that not make the 3D printing harder if you get water in the filament? I can be wrong in this though.
Could it be possible to produce a small batch (~70 cm) of Filament with something like an heated steel syringe?
Is the auger motor speed controlled? I have seen a few videos of businesses that make this stuff and the general setup is the same I wonder if they use something like that or have a machine afterwards that stretches or rolls the filament into spec.
Yes the auger motor is speed controlled.
Which type of plastic material you use to make this filament.....
please answer me
PLA
"gurcharan singh" is actually Jeb Bush's secret UA-cam pseudonym
please agree.
@@MakingStuff Hello Question material PLA pellets raw Please brand name PLA ID? Where to buy PLA raw pellets Thank answer
wich temperature do you use to melt the plastic? thanks
The plastic I am using now is 160C.
wich plastic it is?
PLA 4043D from filabot.com
thanks!!
why not try the filament and change the filament settings in silcer software to correspondent?
How heat is heated at this stage
whats is your water pump
o damn the water bath worked! nice!
Small and portable pet s plastic wool making machine febricationjng and assembling need details please.
Génial, votre machine est très bien réalisée et à la limite du professionnel.
Merci beaucoup, je vais m’en inspirer pour réaliser la mienne.
Benjamin Folliet je m'attendais pas à un autre français mais ça prouve que parfois faut regarder d'autres langues pour découvrir.
wao My thumbs up made it 1k . cool . Why is this filament not usable?? please specify
The thickness is not consistent. Too thick and it jams the printer, too little and not enough plastic to make the print.
If thickness is stable at 1 mm OD and the wire is absolutely round , Is this what you will
consider quality?
hey man, nice video. but one thing... I am getting oval filaments.. can you give some tips for getting perfectly round filaments.
What polymer you using? If you use PLA it is because you need to cool that slowly. If you put PLA into cold water it will collapse. Use warmer water first.
Hey! Do you have some literature recommendations about cooling systems for the filament? I´m struggling to find anything good. Regards:)
No this project has been pretty much trial and error.
Ok, thanks anyway!
At what temperature did you work?
Very cool project! Subscribed, and excited to watch more of your progress. Have you ever considered using ground-down recycled PLA to print? I'm having trouble with extruding at a constant rate with custom grind plastic flakes.
How much is your totally cost for this system ?
so you buy a raw plastic and turn it into filament ? why you don't use wasted filament ? i hope you finish your project and make it more smaller and i hope you get the 1.75 mm filament
Because that would add a level of difficulty to the project. It's much easier to extrude the pellets and that didn't work too well. So there is no since trying waste plastic. Maybe when I work on Version 2 it will be possible to try some waste plastic. Thanks for watching!
Making Stuff you are right, don't give up
Very nice, as shops are now trying to dump their 3mm stock in favour of 1.75mm it would be handy to be able to heat/extrude down to that size. I picked up 1000m of 3mm PLA for just under £10 on ebay, might just change the print head but being able to make your own would be a nice side project.
not true. maybe just your local store
Is there a machine that turns filaments that fail to print into pellets?
Google Translate Japanese.
What kind of motors are those?
Salvaged 24V wheel chair motor.
Hello, This looks great !
Please tell me what motor do you use? I have a filament extruder but i can't decide on the motor, i currently test a car wiper motor. And what diameter is your nozzle?
Wheelchair motor with a motor regulator hook to it
I think the water bath might cause some problems with abs, pet(g) and pa
Will keep this in mind for version 2.0.
You are incredible! Thanks for your videos, man!
fantastic work there, Bob! :D It's amazing that you can build something from parts like that, chuck pellets in one end and get filament out the other :P
Nice work.
hey men your proyect is very very good is correct your machine very nice congratulatios
I love the animation intro, I m gonna make one in C4D this weekend. Cool stuff.Cheers
Why is it not usable?
Not a consistent size or shape.
You might get something out of this.
Pro DIY garage.
ua-cam.com/video/OEkksADFjP8/v-deo.html
Or this guy who makes beams out of plastic
ua-cam.com/video/zNGuuSKE1pY/v-deo.html
Or these guys who mix saw dust with it and some other bonding agents to make a modified wood.
ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=modwood
love it cant wait to see it next time.
looking good bob!!!! yes I strech my filiment to the right size. seems to work best that way. !! good luck! you know where to find me for questions. :) ~russ
An excellent project! I enjoyed watching it 300 x times! Thx👍
Very cool!....keep up the good work!
Looking great man! I've gotton some great ideas from your work! Thanks and keep up the great work!
Great stuff
You inspire me daily!
My filament made so far is super brittle
Incorrect diameter filament isn't unusable, you should always adjust print settings from 1.75/3mm to whatever it actually reads (averaged over several points) on a digital caliper. Consistency of diameter in a continuous run is what's important, less so overall diameter - unless you're planning on doing high speed/big nozzle high output printing & need to push more filament than could be handled if it's diameter's too small. Good video though!
Yeah I printed some cubes in another video and they worked fine as long as the diameter didn't get too small.
is fantastic
good job
Simple option: Bowl with a pump in it pouring water over it.
thenk you
you're walcome
Muito bom trabalho cara. Parabéns
yes that good
very nice.
It would make great fishing line!!! (The 1mm Stuff)
looking good :)
Please visit your forum.
Very nice progress! Maybe that waterbath could be reprinted to be a little longer? That way water would not splash out as much! If you need someone with a bigger printbed you could ask Jerry a.k.a. bernecules nerdgasm, or James from xrobots.co.uk, i am sure both of them would be glad to help out! Looking forward to future videos of the Extruder, really interesting stuff!
I think Russ said he printed it 20% smaller than the original one he made. It works fine just have to dial in the pump voltage.
Or add one or two more draining hoses in the outer water bath? You don't need any water there, so just drain it.
The problem with the upper water bath would be easy to fixed too. Just make some more drain holes just above your upper water limit in the long side.
But they must be higher than the water level you want, so the water level still are high enough to cover the inlet and outlet for the filament. But anything above that could just be drained of by some holes in the side of the can.
Than the pump can go as fast as it wants. :-)
good job mannn
Thank You!
Try lowering the Temp. to avoid the strething as it is extruded.
WOW
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Genial
i have see ahater