Thank you Peter! Those actuators are the infamous "black Box" that most of us are afraid to open for fear all the guts fall out in our face and then what!!
Having a 98 Cherokee and a 2020 Taco, I gotta say I prefer the easy and reliable 4wd lever. All companies should go back to this as the module doesn't save fuel or money. Go back to simplicity! Great video as always Peter.
Thank you for your time sir. And the videos are great. My 06 starting doing the same thing a few months ago, now 4wd will not engage. 270k. I noticed that rubber tube on the top was off. The small motor in the actuator is all rust. And there is a continuous beep coming from the actuator. I want to replace the motor in the actuator and the switch if possible! Keep Rockin.
I also have a 2006 with a similar problem, 4x4 only flashed on the dash when I pushed the 4hi button and little beeping noise coming from actuator (4x4 wouldn't engage). Also the vent hose was off, electric motor was rusted inside, also the metal transfer case rod was somewhat stuck. I got the rod working smooth, got the motor working by removing it and spinning it back and forth and putting power to it to make sure (all thanks to this video btw). I put it all back together and now the 4Lo light is flashing and 4Hi light stays on (still no 4x4 engaging). I aligned the gear/shaft out/switch off on cam just like in the video, also tried shaft all the way in/cam on the other end, still the same result. Any ideas? I am a pretty decent shade tree mechanic but this one is tough, and the dealer wants $3,500 to put in a new actuator (they say the transfer case has to be split). They also say to use oem actuator instead of the made in china ones from eBay. Does anyone have any experience with these? Thanks
On my 2002 Sequoia I change the transfer case to full synthetic and that made a big difference in the way that electrical actuator actually work better I think it didn't have as much resistance in the shifting of the gears just a thought for your process.
This was a great video! I had a similar issue and found that after watching your video if I just loosen the three 12 mm bolts I can manipulate the entire actuator without removing the cover and it will unbind the actuator. Thank you so much for this video my actuator is now unbound and working great
My 4th gen 4Runner, which has the same actuator part as the Sequioa , will not go into 4hi from 2WD. Can you elaborate on how you were able to manipulate the actuator without removing the cover to unbind it? Thank you.
@@winds10 here is a link 4Runner 4Lo actuator stuck flashing and beeping FIX resolved ua-cam.com/video/pedBianZA8Q/v-deo.html Loosen the three 12 mm bolts on the actuator about half way out and manually move the actuator assembly back and fourth with the ignition key in the on position and the selector in 4WD. Mine was bond up. I ended up leaving the three bolts loose because it would bind often and I have not found a better solution. I have been driving it like this for about three months.
Honestly, I never understood why Toyota moved from the manual transfer shift to the electric one! It is used not so often that it would really make a difference when driving. The actuator with the electric engine is trouble! Had lots of problems in my T4R 2005. In addition I also had to change the chain for the second time now. Loss of oil let it run dry and killed the chain. If you have the time please prepare a video how to replace the electric actuator with its predecessor the manual shift to low gear! I would do that modification right away! The old system was practically indestructible.
Very interesting, thank you. I guess there weren't any contacts that would have allowed you to test the switch. Are you concerned with the fact that the shaft encountered resistance when you tried to hand crank it into position? That motor is pretty small, even geared up it doesn't have a ton of torque, I wonder if there's anything wrong in the xfer case or transmission.
Hi Peter ..... another great video ..... does Toyota not recommend using a dielectric grease on the electrical components, and further, would you not be well served with a touch of lithium grease on the internal gearing/mechanisms? You are the boss, and I’m asking question a from my comfy couch!! Thanks again for the video!
The actuator says 187 on it, clearly it's been murdered. In my experience lack of use kills more of these than anything else. Exercise this thing once a week even if you don't have to use it. Cycle it through all the modes so that when you finally do need it's not seized up on you. I realize this is not helpful to someone with a broken unit but it's still sound advice. I beat my head against a wall for months before finally admitting this job was above my pay grade.
Thank you for this video. My 2006 Sequoia was stuck in 4 Lo. I was able to manually force it back into 2 wheel drive using this as a guide without removing the transfer case actuator. I am still having problems engaging 4 wheel drive, but at least the vehicle is driveable day to day now.
Great video. Are there any contacts on the plastic cover that you removed (the cover that had the long extension with the pins which you inserted back at the end)? In similar Toyota assemblies, those contacts are the ones that would go bad, but can be recovered by cleaning and re-greasing. And, as others said, it may be worth checking the microswitch as well.
Hi. Do you have a picture or video how the bottom or in reverse upper part looks like ? I installed a new part but other rod which is responsible for 4lo is not working correctly and is a problem with a proper alignment. I took it apart and I need a picture or video on how to align those rods. Thanks for any help
I had a similar problem with the actuator on my 03 4Runner. This cost me $3K to replace at the Toyota stealership. In my case the actuator was jammed and my dash lit up like a Xmas tree and had to drive to the shop with a continuous beeping. Luckily it wasn't jammed in 4L after doing some offroading. Expensive repair but I had no choice.
Hi. Great video. Thanks. But can u please give a advise from u?? My sequoia is a 2006 but when I push the button for 4x4 I don’t hear any click or I don’t see any light on my dash board. What it could be 150k miles no rust please help me
Thank you for this clip, but it wasn't the weight of the little blue disc. Is that unimportant? with the outer cover. I hope the translator can explain it to you
I lock our 2007 toyota runner runner into 4wheel drive last night and now its stuck in 4 wheel hi and will not disengage. Do you think its this actuator or the front actuator that is causing the issue? or is there a trick to get it disengaged?
Once you have taken out the gear that moves the rod, why can't you then remove the bolts holding the actuator to the transfer case and slide the whole actuator unit over the rod and away from the transfer case? Is there something preventing that?
Hi Peter. Thanks for this video. I opened the actuator on my 2008 Toyota 4Runner (it has the same actuator as the one in this video) because my 4WD is not engaging. The 4WD lights are always blinking. So I opened the actuator just like what you did to see what is going on inside it. Unfortunately, when I opened the cover, the 2 big gears (the metal and plastic) fell off. Now my problem is I do not know how to put back the big metal gear that pushes the rod in and out in relation to that micro switch. By the way, the rod is pushed to the right (about half-way or the tip of the rod is just on the small gear that drives it). My questions are: 1)Should the rod freely goes in and out as you rotate the metal gear? 2)If the rod is pushed halfway (just like in my situation), should I position the metal gear in such a way that the micro switch is open, meaning the micro switch is not touching the smooth round part of big gear? Thanks again.
Please show the installation of the new unit. I have the same problem and same unit in my old toyota. In fact it also has salvage yard markings in yellow paint. It goes into 4wd about 1 out of 4 times on the first try. If I roll forward or back a little and try again it usually goes into 4wd. When I give up after a few attempts to get into 4wd the lights won't stop flashing when I turn the switch back into 2wd. Shutting off the engine and restarting with the switch on 2wd has always reset the 2wd . By the way my transfer case has a large weight bolted to it adjacent to the actuator to serve as a vibration damper that I didn't see on this unit.
The 1st gen Lexus GX has one, but it still has a motor for the center diff lock and to prevent Hi/Lo range shifting while in park. One of the things that can go wrong is the o-ring fails on the toothed shaft, admitting fluid into the motor & contact area. $1.5k repair at the dealer because the transfer case has to be removed & opened up (by the book).
I wonder if there is an aftermarket manual conversion available to replace the electrical switch and motor assembly. I have two Tacoma’s and I do not like the switch engagement.
Been hoping for something like this my Tundra will not engage. Hope you can work on a 2008 Tundra that seems to fail at those motors from rust or contacts breaking the solder joint.
A proper diagnosis needs to be done on your truck. The shift motor on the transfer cases rarely fail. Usually its the front axle actuator thats bad. There is a specific series of events that happen and in a certain time when you turn the 4wd knob.
I'm working on my 2005 Sequoia transfer case actuator right now. That microswitch does not click in mine either. I'm having the same problem with the control rod which refuses to go all the way into the transfer case
Hi Peter! I'm rebuild that type of activators ASIN - 0003 for several times. Most common failure it just DC motor itself. Brass bushing has notorious tendency to stock if humidity get inside the case. In many cases failed components inside of transfer case. Often mail function cause by feedback switch. Feedback switch synchronization xtrimly important. On top side of the dial of feedback switch You can see notch on outside plastic ring of the switch case. Bar on the switch dial should be positioned to meet notch on outside ring. At same time activator should be in the defoult mode ,as it shipped from factory. Defoult mode it's when driving rode completely retracted.
I have a 2012 Toyota tacoma. It used to get stuck in 4wd. I tapped on the actuator several times with a small hammer and now it easily goes into 4h and back to 2wd. It still won't go into 4 low. Do I have to buy a new actuator or is there an easy fix to get it into 4 low?
@@olsonadventures1134 It looks like activator need intervention. In most cases it should be opened and inspected and serviced if needed. In some situations dc motor repair or replacement required. It's an always a good thing if you can remove a transfer case and work on the bench, instead doing such job on the car.
@@gregorystrakovsky5193 I freed the motor and now it spins both ways, tested with 12V. i dont know how the gears looked before opening. i see the notch on the big gear and i poin it at the notch on the inside of the case next to the rod pointing at the T case. what about the small blue/red gear on the cover? which ring did mean? can u explain more please.
@@YomAlwa3eed please see small 1mm slots on each of the timing gear. All slots should match. Defoult position is both pushing rods completely inside. 4hi and diff lock gear need a basic pretension. Typically it straight forward assembly process designated for employees with basic skills. All marks should match before case cover installed. Top quality marine grade synthetic grease should be applied moderately as klober isoflex or magnalube.
Use a Power Probe on the motor once those main gears are removed and see if the motor is still good. If it rotates, it is probably the contact solder joints. The motors can be replaced. Often the rod gets stuck at the o-ring seal as well. They should be 'exercised' every month to ensure the rod(s) doesn't freeze up and the motor doesn't corrode in place.
@@YomAlwa3eed You can jack the vehicle up and put it in neutral and then remove the cover to the actuator and pull the gears out of it and manually move the rod in and out to get it going again . But, be warned, it is a major task to put everything back in place with the unit upside down .
@@troyhodulik5542 i fixed it 🍻🍾🎉🎊 with a little quirk... the diff lock light still blinks when u press it even when its engaged, i know when its engaged when the VSCOFF light comes on, i confirmed it with a test drive wont mess with it any further. which cog needs adjusting u think? the blue small one or brown big internal one? yesterday my rod was jammed on the case of the actuator, didn't know u need to tighten the top 2 bolts first.
@@YomAlwa3eed Excellent. It should be the outer most gear. I believe the big brown one. Let me check my photos I took of it when I took mine apart and I will get back to you. It is late here and I must get up early tomorrow. I promise I will let you know.
@@troyhodulik5542 no rush, stopping the light from flashing vs solid when pressed is not a big deal but i do want to fix it in the near future THANK YOU !!!!!!
My guess is that the contact surface of the micro switch is corroded, or the spring in it has weakened or part of the spring in it broke. The switches inside the vehicle sometimes develop the same problems, especially if subjected to rain or spilled drinks. Then again, with that age and mileage, it could be anywhere in the electronic system which controls it. You could search for the problem for days and not find it. Although outside the rust belt, it is likely a mechanical failure causing the problem.
I have a 2004 4Runner and the transfer case actuator looks the same. It seems that there were two styles, one with two motors, gears, and rods and this one with one. I am having trouble with my 4L, but 4H works fine and it seems that the front is locking in. In the other videos that I have watched (with the other style), the 4L is under the lower cover and if you can either free that one or fix it, then its good. For this style, how does it engage the 4L? Does the rod go so far in for 4H and then further for 4L. Please let me know if anyone has the answer. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner and I took that actuator apart right well the the shaft that goes that is the engagement shift wasn't out all the way and nor can I get it to come all the way back I can get it to slide in and slide out to a certain point but I have an 05 V8 4Runner so I have no two wheel drive could it be that that activating shaft is shorter or doesn't actually receive receipt or received that much as it would on a V6 edition to go into two wheel drive or and so the center transfer case locker does it only go so far and then luck and then further to lock and low because my electronics is a little different it has a little contacting wheel that engages the electronics so I put the electronics back together I turned the wheel and I had it the vehicle running and I had it in calling for a four wheel drive low and I heard it actually shipped into low without that rod moving so is there another actuator in the transfer case somewhere I don't know but that's what it seemed like to me that the switch going from high to low controls a different actuator or a different solenoid and maybe that one on the side of the transfer case only controls the locker for the the differential lock or the transfer case lock is what I'm thinking
I usually find that 4H does not engage smoothly when one is standing still, one has to be moving but also not accelerating hard basically coasting and I never have an issue getting in 4h. If I have to engage it at a standstill sometimes I find following 4L procedure works best by putting it in neutral and then trying to engage 4H.
So also if I'm driving up a hill and I need to engage 4H because I might be hard on the gas it won't engage but just a second getting off the gas 4Hwill engage for me. Maybe this will help if you find nothing wrong with the actuator..
A nice informative video, I would have tried to remove the unit and as you showed it would have been in vain, thanks for the video, It looks a little out of focus to me, could be my computer though.
Just curious, was that a slow engagement of the 4WD unit? It seemed fairly sluggish to engage . Don’t have one but would be nice to know what is normal and what is not...
The gears like to have relaxed gear lash state in order to actuate. If it is under tension, it makes it difficult to physically move. That is why when Peter manually rotated the drive shaft, it slipped right in.
that servo motor box looks changed out not original, but that micro switch doesnt click, could be the problem, like the original failure on old servo box. this could be a customer who pushes the 2wd 4wd button all week long while driving.
That is a perfect example of why I stopped buying new Toyotas; too many electronics. My 99 Tacoma 4WD (basic & running great) is/ was the last for me. Quality may be wonderful, but with inflated prices due to unnecessary ‘push button everything,’ sadly, I’m looking elsewhere.
Toyota could simply show you how to re-time the gears, but then they wouldn't sell a very expensive service to crack open the transfer case to replace one of these actuators. As you saw in the video, the actuator is not a complicated device.
Sometimes shifting into neutral helps the actuator do its job. It's relieves the driveline binding.
Having a lever never bothered me. It wasn't a chore to engage 4wd. Sometimes more tech is actually less.
I agree. Same with A/C controls. Is turning a knob more difficult than going through menus and touching a screen? Unnecessary tech is unnecessary.
I bought a 2021 ORP 4Runner on purpose for the shift lever.
That's why I bought my 2011 4Runner with the manual transfer case. No electronics to get in the way.
Too much electronic tech negates reliability
Thank you Peter! Those actuators are the infamous "black Box" that most of us are afraid to open for fear all the guts fall out in our face and then what!!
That happened tome
I just bought an 05 Sequoia 4x4. Thanks for the videos!
Need more videos just like this. 04 4Runner having this same problem but dealership is always looking to take advantage of people.
Peter, I wish all mechanics were like you!
Having a 98 Cherokee and a 2020 Taco, I gotta say I prefer the easy and reliable 4wd lever. All companies should go back to this as the module doesn't save fuel or money. Go back to simplicity!
Great video as always Peter.
Thank you for your time sir. And the videos are great.
My 06 starting doing the same thing a few months ago, now 4wd will not engage. 270k. I noticed that rubber tube on the top was off. The small motor in the actuator is all rust. And there is a continuous beep coming from the actuator. I want to replace the motor in the actuator and the switch if possible! Keep Rockin.
I also have a 2006 with a similar problem, 4x4 only flashed on the dash when I pushed the 4hi button and little beeping noise coming from actuator (4x4 wouldn't engage). Also the vent hose was off, electric motor was rusted inside, also the metal transfer case rod was somewhat stuck. I got the rod working smooth, got the motor working by removing it and spinning it back and forth and putting power to it to make sure (all thanks to this video btw). I put it all back together and now the 4Lo light is flashing and 4Hi light stays on (still no 4x4 engaging). I aligned the gear/shaft out/switch off on cam just like in the video, also tried shaft all the way in/cam on the other end, still the same result. Any ideas? I am a pretty decent shade tree mechanic but this one is tough, and the dealer wants $3,500 to put in a new actuator (they say the transfer case has to be split). They also say to use oem actuator instead of the made in china ones from eBay. Does anyone have any experience with these? Thanks
@@thousandaire2 u need to play with the timing of the gears. did u figuer it out?
Great info! I love your channel!
On my 2002 Sequoia I change the transfer case to full synthetic and that made a big difference in the way that electrical actuator actually work better I think it didn't have as much resistance in the shifting of the gears just a thought for your process.
This was a great video! I had a similar issue and found that after watching your video if I just loosen the three 12 mm bolts I can manipulate the entire actuator without removing the cover and it will unbind the actuator. Thank you so much for this video my actuator is now unbound and working great
My 4th gen 4Runner, which has the same actuator part as the Sequioa , will not go into 4hi from 2WD. Can you elaborate on how you were able to manipulate the actuator without removing the cover to unbind it? Thank you.
@@winds10 here is a link
4Runner 4Lo actuator stuck flashing and beeping FIX resolved
ua-cam.com/video/pedBianZA8Q/v-deo.html
Loosen the three 12 mm bolts on the actuator about half way out and manually move the actuator assembly back and fourth with the ignition key in the on position and the selector in 4WD. Mine was bond up. I ended up leaving the three bolts loose because it would bind often and I have not found a better solution. I have been driving it like this for about three months.
@@jakemir Thanks.
Jealous over here in Ohio at the underneath of that car after 15 years it’s clean.
I know. Snow looks nice, but it does more harm than good, both to people and vehicles.
paulparoma yes we joke and call it half life. Because half the year your freezing and stuck in the house.
@@thetechlibrarian What is "your freezing"?
Same!! From MI.
Honestly, I never understood why Toyota moved from the manual transfer shift to the electric one! It is used not so often that it would really make a difference when driving. The actuator with the electric engine is trouble! Had lots of problems in my T4R 2005. In addition I also had to change the chain for the second time now. Loss of oil let it run dry and killed the chain.
If you have the time please prepare a video how to replace the electric actuator with its predecessor the manual shift to low gear! I would do that modification right away! The old system was practically indestructible.
Very interesting, thank you. I guess there weren't any contacts that would have allowed you to test the switch. Are you concerned with the fact that the shaft encountered resistance when you tried to hand crank it into position? That motor is pretty small, even geared up it doesn't have a ton of torque, I wonder if there's anything wrong in the xfer case or transmission.
Hi Peter ..... another great video ..... does Toyota not recommend using a dielectric grease on the electrical components, and further, would you not be well served with a touch of lithium grease on the internal gearing/mechanisms? You are the boss, and I’m asking question a from my comfy couch!! Thanks again for the video!
The actuator says 187 on it, clearly it's been murdered. In my experience lack of use kills more of these than anything else. Exercise this thing once a week even if you don't have to use it. Cycle it through all the modes so that when you finally do need it's not seized up on you. I realize this is not helpful to someone with a broken unit but it's still sound advice. I beat my head against a wall for months before finally admitting this job was above my pay grade.
Excelente, con este video logre sincronizar sin problemas.
Thank you for this video. My 2006 Sequoia was stuck in 4 Lo. I was able to manually force it back into 2 wheel drive using this as a guide without removing the transfer case actuator. I am still having problems engaging 4 wheel drive, but at least the vehicle is driveable day to day now.
Please give me a quick guide I have this exact problem and can't drive above 45 mph since it's stuck in 4lo I need to get back in hi
Am having same issues too
Great video. Are there any contacts on the plastic cover that you removed (the cover that had the long extension with the pins which you inserted back at the end)? In similar Toyota assemblies, those contacts are the ones that would go bad, but can be recovered by cleaning and re-greasing. And, as others said, it may be worth checking the microswitch as well.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff.
Hi. Do you have a picture or video how the bottom or in reverse upper part looks like ? I installed a new part but other rod which is responsible for 4lo is not working correctly and is a problem with a proper alignment. I took it apart and
I need a picture or video on how to align those rods.
Thanks for any help
Another excellent video, thanks!
Don't worry Peter, we'll get to the bottom of this mystery ;-)
The mystery seems to be the stupid thing needs a new actuator.:)
I had a similar problem with the actuator on my 03 4Runner. This cost me $3K to replace at the Toyota stealership. In my case the actuator was jammed and my dash lit up like a Xmas tree and had to drive to the shop with a continuous beeping. Luckily it wasn't jammed in 4L after doing some offroading. Expensive repair but I had no choice.
Hi. Great video. Thanks. But can u please give a advise from u?? My sequoia is a 2006 but when I push the button for 4x4 I don’t hear any click or I don’t see any light on my dash board. What it could be 150k miles no rust please help me
Thank you for this clip, but it wasn't the weight of the little blue disc. Is that unimportant? with the outer cover. I hope the translator can explain it to you
What a nightmare. Specially for us backyard mechanics lying on our back!
I lock our 2007 toyota runner runner into 4wheel drive last night and now its stuck in 4 wheel hi and will not disengage. Do you think its this actuator or the front actuator that is causing the issue?
or is there a trick to get it disengaged?
Once you have taken out the gear that moves the rod, why can't you then remove the bolts holding the actuator to the transfer case and slide the whole actuator unit over the rod and away from the transfer case? Is there something preventing that?
I never understood why those aren't protected from water an stuff ,there the first thing that goes under water when off roading.
Good thing my land cruiser is full time 4wd , never have to worry about it.
Toyota does a poor job of rustproofing and protecting parts from water . Maybe it never rains in Japan 😮☔
@@alexanderrosales7675 awd and 4wd are not the same thing
Hi Peter. Thanks for this video. I opened the actuator on my 2008 Toyota 4Runner (it has the same actuator as the one in this video) because my 4WD is not engaging. The 4WD lights are always blinking. So I opened the actuator just like what you did to see what is going on inside it. Unfortunately, when I opened the cover, the 2 big gears (the metal and plastic) fell off. Now my problem is I do not know how to put back the big metal gear that pushes the rod in and out in relation to that micro switch. By the way, the rod is pushed to the right (about half-way or the tip of the rod is just on the small gear that drives it). My questions are: 1)Should the rod freely goes in and out as you rotate the metal gear? 2)If the rod is pushed halfway (just like in my situation), should I position the metal gear in such a way that the micro switch is open, meaning the micro switch is not touching the smooth round part of big gear? Thanks again.
Did you ever figure it out?
Please show the installation of the new unit. I have the same problem and same unit in my old toyota. In fact it also has salvage yard markings in yellow paint. It goes into 4wd about 1 out of 4 times on the first try. If I roll forward or back a little and try again it usually goes into 4wd. When I give up after a few attempts to get into 4wd the lights won't stop flashing when I turn the switch back into 2wd. Shutting off the engine and restarting with the switch on 2wd has always reset the 2wd . By the way my transfer case has a large weight bolted to it adjacent to the actuator to serve as a vibration damper that I didn't see on this unit.
I wish they just had a transfere case lever still.
The 1st gen Lexus GX has one, but it still has a motor for the center diff lock and to prevent Hi/Lo range shifting while in park. One of the things that can go wrong is the o-ring fails on the toothed shaft, admitting fluid into the motor & contact area. $1.5k repair at the dealer because the transfer case has to be removed & opened up (by the book).
I wonder if there is an aftermarket manual conversion available to replace the electrical switch and motor assembly. I have two Tacoma’s and I do not like the switch engagement.
If you ever find one please come back here and let me know!
Will the connector vacuum line throw off a code?
Peter, what brand is your work light?
I'm old school, would like mechanical engagement. Wonder what that part would cost from the dealer?
$2700 for parts and labor
@@ParkerTheTanner looks like a future 2 wheel drive car to me
$400 OEM for new assembly
Been hoping for something like this my Tundra will not engage. Hope you can work on a 2008 Tundra that seems to fail at those motors from rust or contacts breaking the solder joint.
A proper diagnosis needs to be done on your truck. The shift motor on the transfer cases rarely fail. Usually its the front axle actuator thats bad. There is a specific series of events that happen and in a certain time when you turn the 4wd knob.
Wow very interesting video, thanks for sharing this video.
I'm working on my 2005 Sequoia transfer case actuator right now. That microswitch does not click in mine either. I'm having the same problem with the control rod which refuses to go all the way into the transfer case
Hi Peter! I'm rebuild that type of activators ASIN - 0003 for several times. Most common failure it just DC motor itself. Brass bushing has notorious tendency to stock if humidity get inside the case. In many cases failed components inside of transfer case. Often mail function cause by feedback switch. Feedback switch synchronization xtrimly important. On top side of the dial of feedback switch You can see notch on outside plastic ring of the switch case. Bar on the switch dial should be positioned to meet notch on outside ring. At same time activator should be in the defoult mode ,as it shipped from factory. Defoult mode it's when driving rode completely retracted.
I have a 2012 Toyota tacoma. It used to get stuck in 4wd. I tapped on the actuator several times with a small hammer and now it easily goes into 4h and back to 2wd. It still won't go into 4 low. Do I have to buy a new actuator or is there an easy fix to get it into 4 low?
@@olsonadventures1134 It looks like activator need intervention. In most cases it should be opened and inspected and serviced if needed. In some situations dc motor repair or replacement required. It's an always a good thing if you can remove a transfer case and work on the bench, instead doing such job on the car.
@@gregorystrakovsky5193 I freed the motor and now it spins both ways, tested with 12V.
i dont know how the gears looked before opening.
i see the notch on the big gear and i poin it at the notch on the inside of the case next to the rod pointing at the T case.
what about the small blue/red gear on the cover?
which ring did mean?
can u explain more please.
@@YomAlwa3eed please see small 1mm slots on each of the timing gear. All slots should match. Defoult position is both pushing rods completely inside. 4hi and diff lock gear need a basic pretension. Typically it straight forward assembly process designated for employees with basic skills. All marks should match before case cover installed. Top quality marine grade synthetic grease should be applied moderately as klober isoflex or magnalube.
@@gregorystrakovsky5193 what should the arrow on the small gear be pointed to?
it only has a diff lock (prado 06).
What brand is your shop flashlight?
Sweet video
Great video!!!
Use a Power Probe on the motor once those main gears are removed and see if the motor is still good. If it rotates, it is probably the contact solder joints. The motors can be replaced. Often the rod gets stuck at the o-ring seal as well. They should be 'exercised' every month to ensure the rod(s) doesn't freeze up and the motor doesn't corrode in place.
whats the fix for a stuck rod?
@@YomAlwa3eed You can jack the vehicle up and put it in neutral and then remove the cover to the actuator and pull the gears out of it and manually move the rod in and out to get it going again . But, be warned, it is a major task to put everything back in place with the unit upside down
.
@@troyhodulik5542 i fixed it 🍻🍾🎉🎊
with a little quirk... the diff lock light still blinks when u press it even when its engaged, i know when its engaged when the VSCOFF light comes on, i confirmed it with a test drive
wont mess with it any further.
which cog needs adjusting u think? the blue small one or brown big internal one?
yesterday my rod was jammed on the case of the actuator, didn't know u need to tighten the top 2 bolts first.
@@YomAlwa3eed Excellent. It should be the outer most gear. I believe the big brown one. Let me check my photos I took of it when I took mine apart and I will get back to you. It is late here and I must get up early tomorrow. I promise I will let you know.
@@troyhodulik5542 no rush, stopping the light from flashing vs solid when pressed is not a big deal but i do want to fix it in the near future
THANK YOU !!!!!!
Thanks for that privilege look at the actuator system
My guess is that the contact surface of the micro switch is corroded, or the spring in it has weakened or part of the spring in it broke. The switches inside the vehicle sometimes develop the same problems, especially if subjected to rain or spilled drinks. Then again, with that age and mileage, it could be anywhere in the electronic system which controls it. You could search for the problem for days and not find it. Although outside the rust belt, it is likely a mechanical failure causing the problem.
That microswitch does not click. I Ohmed mine out and it's working fine.
I have a 2004 4Runner and the transfer case actuator looks the same. It seems that there were two styles, one with two motors, gears, and rods and this one with one. I am having trouble with my 4L, but 4H works fine and it seems that the front is locking in. In the other videos that I have watched (with the other style), the 4L is under the lower cover and if you can either free that one or fix it, then its good. For this style, how does it engage the 4L? Does the rod go so far in for 4H and then further for 4L. Please let me know if anyone has the answer. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner and I took that actuator apart right well the the shaft that goes that is the engagement shift wasn't out all the way and nor can I get it to come all the way back I can get it to slide in and slide out to a certain point but I have an 05 V8 4Runner so I have no two wheel drive could it be that that activating shaft is shorter or doesn't actually receive receipt or received that much as it would on a V6 edition to go into two wheel drive or and so the center transfer case locker does it only go so far and then luck and then further to lock and low because my electronics is a little different it has a little contacting wheel that engages the electronics so I put the electronics back together I turned the wheel and I had it the vehicle running and I had it in calling for a four wheel drive low and I heard it actually shipped into low without that rod moving so is there another actuator in the transfer case somewhere I don't know but that's what it seemed like to me that the switch going from high to low controls a different actuator or a different solenoid and maybe that one on the side of the transfer case only controls the locker for the the differential lock or the transfer case lock is what I'm thinking
I'm surprised you didn't electrically check that micro switch. They do click as you mentioned.
Good job old man
My 2015 does the same thing. If i turn off engine & start again it will work every time. It's weird.
so good explanation
So you're going to replace it?
great video but doesnt the cover that has the pins have to be timed
I usually find that 4H does not engage smoothly when one is standing still, one has to be moving but also not accelerating hard basically coasting and I never have an issue getting in 4h. If I have to engage it at a standstill sometimes I find following 4L procedure works best by putting it in neutral and then trying to engage 4H.
So also if I'm driving up a hill and I need to engage 4H because I might be hard on the gas it won't engage but just a second getting off the gas 4Hwill engage for me. Maybe this will help if you find nothing wrong with the actuator..
A nice informative video, I would have tried to remove the unit and as you showed it would have been in vain, thanks for the video, It looks a little out of focus to me, could be my computer though.
Very well done 👍
Ur so brilliant 💝💐✌️✌️👍
Just curious, was that a slow engagement of the 4WD unit? It seemed fairly sluggish to engage . Don’t have one but would be nice to know what is normal and what is not...
The gears like to have relaxed gear lash state in order to actuate. If it is under tension, it makes it difficult to physically move. That is why when Peter manually rotated the drive shaft, it slipped right in.
Thanks for sharing
Why does it say 187 on the actuator? Mine says 187 as well .
Petr, you sound tired today.
But I think it is wrong to put the 4 drive mode when transmission in Drive position, it should be on N position 🤔
You engaged in D why should it works sir
dekujeme
that servo motor box looks changed out not original, but that micro switch doesnt click, could be the problem, like the original failure on old servo box. this could be a customer who pushes the 2wd 4wd button all week long while driving.
I’m here because I have the same issue. Did you ever find what the cause was?
@@ktate2002 I did the exact same thing and it’s been working flawlessly.
Wouldn't surprise me if you opened the actuator motor you would find the commutator really dirty and gunked up and not spinning fully.
Someone shot the used parts cannon at the acuator and rolled the dice they may have gotten a fews years from it but it gave up the ghost.
That is a perfect example of why I stopped buying new Toyotas; too many electronics. My 99 Tacoma 4WD (basic & running great) is/ was the last for me. Quality may be wonderful, but with inflated prices due to unnecessary ‘push button everything,’ sadly, I’m looking elsewhere.
What R U Up For? 😎
Toyota specifically says to NEVER disassemble the shift motor. Everything is clocked and timed.
Toyota could simply show you how to re-time the gears, but then they wouldn't sell a very expensive service to crack open the transfer case to replace one of these actuators. As you saw in the video, the actuator is not a complicated device.
Get a power screwdriver please 😀😀
That is a weak part on that vehicle I had mine replaced
I suspect it's a computer problem.
Toyota quality.😂👎