Hi roger, on your to back bulbs of cattleya, I've been growing cattleya,s since 2005 and I've found the best treatment for back bulbs is to place spagmoss in the bottom of a long necked glass vase with water in the bottom and do not let any part of the bulb touch the water, leave the top of the vase open or it will rot, as you know most cattleya ,s have 3 points of growth on each bulb. My motto is if it's green it's got a chance. Tony
Last fall I took a cattleyas with 2 pseudobulbs (sp) and put them in semi water culture. It has taken several months but I now have a great root system and a newgrowth that is quite mature. Recently I repotted it in good quality New Zeeland spaghnum moss. All is going well so far in its development. This is just an experiment by an orchid novice.😊. Love learning about orchids from your videos!
Hi Roger! I also have an infected Cattleya that I bought at the Victoria Orchid Show last March. I love the blooms so much that I bought all four divisions with four pseudobulbs each but no viable roots. I found out that they have the dreaded 'F' and treated them accordingly with Physan 20. I decided to cut all the non-viable roots, had them hanging upside-down, sprayed them with Physan 20 alternating with Superthrive for about two months until new roots and new growth emerged. I then potted them up in a lava rock (just a media of my choice because it is cheap and I can find it easily where I live), strapped them well so they don't wiggle around. I still continue with spraying Physan 20 and Superthrive, even though there are tons of roots now and all the eyes are waking up plus five new growths. Some of their pseudobulbs are also wrinkly like yours, but I think they'll make it. Goodluck with yours and I hope that one day you'll have one to share with Rachel.
Very good video,I would put it in your holly pots. Can't wait to see what u do and how this Cattleya comes along. I like what you said about your orchids and memory's. I Too have orchids that comes with found memory's. And my oldest orchid I have had scenes 1992 it's a cattleya too.
I would stick with what your doing, seems to be working. Since the bulbs are so desiccated maybe increase your watering schedule? I'm glad you did an update on these, I've been wondering how they were doing. I to have a cattleya with no roots to speak of and the bulbs were so shriveled up I didn't think it would make it but just a few weeks ago it started a new growth and now the new roots are starting! I am also using WC for mine and I think I've managed to save it. Nice work with this plant and I hope it continues to respond to whatever method you decide on.
I have a single new growth psuedo bulb that is what is left of a cattleya that was attacked with rot. This piece also has a sheath and one leaf,one root that was barely a root, is badly dehydrated . So placed it with damp spaghnam moss in a plastic bag for a couple of months. More roots developed although small all about 1cm long at this time I planted it in spaghnam in a tiny pot. So far it was attacked with scale but showed no signs of growing but remained green. In the last three weeks a new arial root has grown and a new growth has started to grow. It didn't have fusarium at least but it is now growing and I never thought it would. It is still dehydrated looking but I think it will live . Never give up on them.
I don't like giving up either. These pieces have already spent 3 months of their life in damp sphagnum and during that time, nothing happened. At last, I have something to work with.
Interesting to hear you talk about old plants. I picked up a mansell and hatcher dendrobium flaviflorum at our society last night the oldest date on the label was June 06 .not as old as your phal would have been . nice video Roger 👌
......to me, and I love it.....WC works best on a neglected plant vs a disease recovering plant...if that makes sense, ....a plant from the garden center that was dried out or in bad media, responds quickly in WC...a plant recovering, and possibly still fighting off any type of bacterial infection, I'd keep out of water or moistness, unless you provide it. ...... .if mine, I would leave them bare root, in a pot or hang by wire..so you can keep eye on them....I would clean as much decayed material or bad roots off of the bottom end as the plant could stand....there is a limit..and such a beautiful gesture, and especially generous to go thru the trouble to keep them alive for a special grower.....will come back ten fold.....
I would suggest both. I only have one cattleya and it pretty much looked like yours when I got it. I put it in water culture and the root system is better then my Phalaenopsis! Water Culture really does help get the roots going and after your cattleya starts putting out roots, put it in your clay pot with holes in it. I wish you luck.
Roger, I have a couple of Cattleyas just like this. I have come to realize that there are some hybrid/species that like water and a quick drain and then there are others that like very little water and just high humidity to obtain all the growth they need. Crazy as it seems, I have discovered that about ~15% of the Cattleyas I have randomly purchased, ended up requiring the drier but more humid conditions to grow. Don't give up! I managed to save a couple. Patience is all!
I've lost more Catt types than all the others put together but although a lot of that was due to 'F' before I knew anything about it (I thought it was just my bad growing), I find that they are some of the strongest and can come back from the brink of death.
They can indeed come back stronger than ever. The best chance of success is potted in a mixture of medium/large chunk bark/perlite/charcoal mix or mounting to allow for air flow. Though mounting usually always includes the headache of daily spritzing.
Wow how amazing your plants starts a new growth and new roots. I understand why you said treath it again we are at the same stages in plant growth after the dreaded F. I wish you so much luck and healthy plants so you can give Rachel her plant division. My opinion does not hold a much value I don't have catleyas I don't have much experience with orchids in total. But I'll give it anyway. I would keep the left one in water until it had a bit more roots. When they do garden of the roots by keeping it dryer a bit longer and Mabey add some leca in the glass. So the roots are used to some friction. The right one next to the coffee. It is starting new roots, you would want those roots in the media of your choice, and in a holey clay pot. It's showing you vigour so I think after it's spray it would do great and wants to grow. And catleyas do better in media the roots love to hold someting. Good luck show us the update Now I want coffee lol Kind regards rose 🌹 Thanks for showing us fusarium and inspire people not to throw plants away. There is not much content about it on UA-cam. As if people are ashamed of the bad and ugly and death of plants. But we can learn so much from the struggeling plants. So again thank you dear your an Inspiration ❤
They both got potted. Once I realised that fusarium was the problem for some of my orchids, I did a lot of work to find out as much as I could - there is not much out there that is specific to orchids. Then, once I had a go at treating some plants and they seemed to recover, I also realised it's not a death sentence. I wish I'd found out earlier as I lost a lot of good Cattleyas (all from the same seller) - I just thought it was 'me' just growing them badly.
unfortunately that is what lots of people send you on eBay, two or three wrinkly pseudobulbs with dried up roots, I pot them up and they start to put out roots, good luck with yours, those are beautiful blooms.
I would pot up both pieces. And since the leaves look a bit pale and yellow ... have you tried foliage feeding? Like, spraying them with fertilized water? Weak, of course, to not burn the leaves, but still, I think those plants are crying for some nutrients. Best of luck, Cattleya mossiae (is it?) is such a beautiful thing.
It's not the actual species 'mossiae' but I think it could be one of the parents - it was suggested by many when I first filmed the blooms. The idea of some weak feed on the leaves sounds good - I'll stick some in the sprayer and try that - thanks.
the one nearest your cup of cocoa i would pot in sphagnum in any pot not too big and held steady with a tri hanger holding to the arms with a tight fixture the other i would placin a poly bag morrisons bread is suitable with dilute fertilizer about 20cc tie the top and put both in a suitable spot
The damage it does blocking up the pathways cannot be 'undone'. But it is just a fungus so it can be stopped from spreading. There are very limited fungicides available in the UK - I was lucky, a viewer sent me some in the post that I wouldn't be able to buy and I used that with a repeat spraying. The one I have now is a Bayer product Fungus Fighter Concentrate - there is also a ready-mixed version Fungus Fighter Plus which has the same lower level chemical. Ana Maria (Miracle Orchids channel) has a good list of the chemicals that work on fusarium. Results are not guaranteed - it depends how far gone the plant is but after treatment, new growths and roots should be clean. After time, the older infected part of the plant can be cut off. I have about 6 recovering orchids that look like they have 'grown though it'. Infected plants should be kept and watered separately as fusarium spreads by spores which can be on the outside of the plant and even in the media but those spores should be stopped after the 1st treatment. The best effects are achieved by rotating chemicals rather than using the same one over and over.
I read somewhere to use Thiophanate methyl for fusarium,i found that in a powder and soaked my Vanda in it every two weeks with it hanging upside downs still watched it slowly die, hope I never have it again but sure it will come around since they say It is common, don't know if the seller knew it or d did it get stressed in shipping,
I guess with a cattleya if you can stop it and get new growths, you could cut away the old? I just don't know because they said vanda keiki would still carry it,
Fusarium is normally most active at the base of the plant in the rhizome and around the base of the roots - that's how it stops the plant hydrating and passing nutrients around. Not sure how it would affect a Vanda - but as that sort of plant only has one 'path' up the stem, if that was blocked at the base, it sounds like it would not be possible to save it unless there were roots higher up the stem that were not yet completely infected?
okay here goes my opinion " WHAT WOULD RODGRR DO" that would be the question I would ask myself. I think he would tell me to put them both in a holy clay pot with bark a little bit of moss and if you have some clay beads throw some of those in there. that's what I think Rodger would do what I've learned from Rodger that would be you is that in my growing condition I would put them in a clay pot with River Rock because of my constant humidity and I would watch him really well I have to stick together with the Southern us Growers like Rick and Todd on that question. 👉👵👈
Roger Frampton and holy clay pots with bark and maybe a little bit of moss was I right. did I guess what Rodger would do because if I did that means I've been paying attention to you. I might not know fancy names but I know what you would do in your case and your ground conditions and I know what would be the right thing to do for us growing conditions👉👵👈
I found this very informative, also the comments the video generated.
Hi roger, on your to back bulbs of cattleya, I've been growing cattleya,s since 2005 and I've found the best treatment for back bulbs is to place spagmoss in the bottom of a long necked glass vase with water in the bottom and do not let any part of the bulb touch the water, leave the top of the vase open or it will rot, as you know most cattleya ,s have 3 points of growth on each bulb. My motto is if it's green it's got a chance. Tony
Last fall I took a cattleyas with 2 pseudobulbs (sp) and put them in semi water culture. It has taken several months but I now have a great root system and a newgrowth that is quite mature. Recently I repotted it in good quality New Zeeland spaghnum moss. All is going well so far in its development. This is just an experiment by an orchid novice.😊. Love learning about orchids from your videos!
Thanks - and good luck with the Catt.
Hi Roger! I also have an infected Cattleya that I bought at the Victoria Orchid Show last March. I love the blooms so much that I bought all four divisions with four pseudobulbs each but no viable roots. I found out that they have the dreaded 'F' and treated them accordingly with Physan 20. I decided to cut all the non-viable roots, had them hanging upside-down, sprayed them with Physan 20 alternating with Superthrive for about two months until new roots and new growth emerged. I then potted them up in a lava rock (just a media of my choice because it is cheap and I can find it easily where I live), strapped them well so they don't wiggle around. I still continue with spraying Physan 20 and Superthrive, even though there are tons of roots now and all the eyes are waking up plus five new growths. Some of their pseudobulbs are also wrinkly like yours, but I think they'll make it. Goodluck with yours and I hope that one day you'll have one to share with Rachel.
Some orchids are 'tough cookies'.
Very good video,I would put it in your holly pots. Can't wait to see what u do and how this Cattleya comes along. I like what you said about your orchids and memory's. I Too have orchids that comes with found memory's. And my oldest orchid I have had scenes 1992 it's a cattleya too.
That's an old one - well done! (They went in the pots btw)
I would stick with what your doing, seems to be working. Since the bulbs are so desiccated maybe increase your watering schedule? I'm glad you did an update on these, I've been wondering how they were doing. I to have a cattleya with no roots to speak of and the bulbs were so shriveled up I didn't think it would make it but just a few weeks ago it started a new growth and now the new roots are starting! I am also using WC for mine and I think I've managed to save it. Nice work with this plant and I hope it continues to respond to whatever method you decide on.
I still amazes me how orchids (unlike a lot of other plants) can recover from the brink of death. Real survivors!
I have a single new growth psuedo bulb that is what is left of a cattleya that was attacked with rot. This piece also has a sheath and one leaf,one root that was barely a root, is badly dehydrated . So placed it with damp spaghnam moss in a plastic bag for a couple of months. More roots developed although small all about 1cm long at this time I planted it in spaghnam in a tiny pot. So far it was attacked with scale but showed no signs of growing but remained green. In the last three weeks a new arial root has grown and a new growth has started to grow. It didn't have fusarium at least but it is now growing and I never thought it would. It is still dehydrated looking but I think it will live . Never give up on them.
I don't like giving up either. These pieces have already spent 3 months of their life in damp sphagnum and during that time, nothing happened. At last, I have something to work with.
Interesting to hear you talk about old plants. I picked up a mansell and hatcher dendrobium flaviflorum at our society last night the oldest date on the label was June 06 .not as old as your phal would have been . nice video Roger 👌
Thanks. The theory is, that orchids in good care can last forever!
......to me, and I love it.....WC works best on a neglected plant vs a disease recovering plant...if that makes sense, ....a plant from the garden center that was dried out or in bad media, responds quickly in WC...a plant recovering, and possibly still fighting off any type of bacterial infection, I'd keep out of water or moistness, unless you provide it. ...... .if mine, I would leave them bare root, in a pot or hang by wire..so you can keep eye on them....I would clean as much decayed material or bad roots off of the bottom end as the plant could stand....there is a limit..and such a beautiful gesture, and especially generous to go thru the trouble to keep them alive for a special grower.....will come back ten fold.....
That makes sense - water and bacterial infections are not a good mix - just asking for more troubles.
Good luck!
I'm hoping I don't need luck but every little thing helps.
I would suggest both. I only have one cattleya and it pretty much looked like yours when I got it. I put it in water culture and the root system is better then my Phalaenopsis! Water Culture really does help get the roots going and after your cattleya starts putting out roots, put it in your clay pot with holes in it. I wish you luck.
They went in the pots later in the day. (I'll post the vid soon.)
It's true...just because we don't leave a comment doesn't mean we aren't still watching! 😋
Each day, I see a new set of vids - I watch all the orchid ones.
Roger, I have a couple of Cattleyas just like this. I have come to realize that there are some hybrid/species that like water and a quick drain and then there are others that like very little water and just high humidity to obtain all the growth they need. Crazy as it seems, I have discovered that about ~15% of the Cattleyas I have randomly purchased, ended up requiring the drier but more humid conditions to grow. Don't give up! I managed to save a couple. Patience is all!
I've lost more Catt types than all the others put together but although a lot of that was due to 'F' before I knew anything about it (I thought it was just my bad growing), I find that they are some of the strongest and can come back from the brink of death.
They can indeed come back stronger than ever. The best chance of success is potted in a mixture of medium/large chunk bark/perlite/charcoal mix or mounting to allow for air flow. Though mounting usually always includes the headache of daily spritzing.
Wow how amazing your plants starts a new growth and new roots. I understand why you said treath it again we are at the same stages in plant growth after the dreaded F.
I wish you so much luck and healthy plants so you can give Rachel her plant division.
My opinion does not hold a much value I don't have catleyas I don't have much experience with orchids in total. But I'll give it anyway.
I would keep the left one in water until it had a bit more roots. When they do garden of the roots by keeping it dryer a bit longer and Mabey add some leca in the glass. So the roots are used to some friction.
The right one next to the coffee.
It is starting new roots, you would want those roots in the media of your choice, and in a holey clay pot. It's showing you vigour so I think after it's spray it would do great and wants to grow. And catleyas do better in media the roots love to hold someting.
Good luck show us the update
Now I want coffee lol
Kind regards rose 🌹
Thanks for showing us fusarium and inspire people not to throw plants away. There is not much content about it on UA-cam.
As if people are ashamed of the bad and ugly and death of plants. But we can learn so much from the struggeling plants. So again thank you dear your an Inspiration ❤
They both got potted. Once I realised that fusarium was the problem for some of my orchids, I did a lot of work to find out as much as I could - there is not much out there that is specific to orchids. Then, once I had a go at treating some plants and they seemed to recover, I also realised it's not a death sentence. I wish I'd found out earlier as I lost a lot of good Cattleyas (all from the same seller) - I just thought it was 'me' just growing them badly.
unfortunately that is what lots of people send you on eBay, two or three wrinkly pseudobulbs with dried up roots, I pot them up and they start to put out roots, good luck with yours, those are beautiful blooms.
Ebay can be iffy for buying orchids but there are some good sellers. I'll be well pleased if these 2 pieces take off.
I would pot them, I've done it before with good results. Mine has a new growth and is now looking alive and well. LC Tokyo magic is my Cattleya.
It's done.
i use sphagnum moss from a garden centre generally sold as a basket liner
If that's 'live moss' that's great stuff! - I used to use that at my other house for hanging baskets (long before the orchid craze).
I would pot up both pieces. And since the leaves look a bit pale and yellow ... have you tried foliage feeding? Like, spraying them with fertilized water? Weak, of course, to not burn the leaves, but still, I think those plants are crying for some nutrients. Best of luck, Cattleya mossiae (is it?) is such a beautiful thing.
It's not the actual species 'mossiae' but I think it could be one of the parents - it was suggested by many when I first filmed the blooms. The idea of some weak feed on the leaves sounds good - I'll stick some in the sprayer and try that - thanks.
Pot 'em up!
Done.
the one nearest your cup of cocoa i would pot in sphagnum in any pot not too big and held steady with a tri hanger holding to the arms with a tight fixture the other i would placin a poly bag morrisons bread is suitable with dilute fertilizer about 20cc tie the top and put both in a suitable spot
They're both in clay pots now (I've run out of sphagnum at the moment).
yes live moss £6 for a large bag
last year I had a round with Fusarium, I was reading you can't cure it. I would love to now what you are spraying them with,
The damage it does blocking up the pathways cannot be 'undone'. But it is just a fungus so it can be stopped from spreading. There are very limited fungicides available in the UK - I was lucky, a viewer sent me some in the post that I wouldn't be able to buy and I used that with a repeat spraying. The one I have now is a Bayer product Fungus Fighter Concentrate - there is also a ready-mixed version Fungus Fighter Plus which has the same lower level chemical. Ana Maria (Miracle Orchids channel) has a good list of the chemicals that work on fusarium. Results are not guaranteed - it depends how far gone the plant is but after treatment, new growths and roots should be clean. After time, the older infected part of the plant can be cut off. I have about 6 recovering orchids that look like they have 'grown though it'. Infected plants should be kept and watered separately as fusarium spreads by spores which can be on the outside of the plant and even in the media but those spores should be stopped after the 1st treatment. The best effects are achieved by rotating chemicals rather than using the same one over and over.
I read somewhere to use Thiophanate methyl for fusarium,i found that in a powder and soaked my Vanda in it every two weeks with it hanging upside downs still watched it slowly die, hope I never have it again but sure it will come around since they say It is common, don't know if the seller knew it or d did it get stressed in shipping,
I guess with a cattleya if you can stop it and get new growths, you could cut away the old? I just don't know because they said vanda keiki would still carry it,
Fusarium is normally most active at the base of the plant in the rhizome and around the base of the roots - that's how it stops the plant hydrating and passing nutrients around. Not sure how it would affect a Vanda - but as that sort of plant only has one 'path' up the stem, if that was blocked at the base, it sounds like it would not be possible to save it unless there were roots higher up the stem that were not yet completely infected?
could u give Rachael's utube name for orchids to follow as well please....
ua-cam.com/channels/U1w33lQmxW2satXeX4X-sQ.htmlvideos
i would put them in a yar with damp spagnum
okay here goes my opinion " WHAT WOULD RODGRR DO" that would be the question I would ask myself. I think he would tell me to put them both in a holy clay pot with bark a little bit of moss and if you have some clay beads throw some of those in there. that's what I think Rodger would do what I've learned from Rodger that would be you is that in my growing condition I would put them in a clay pot with River Rock because of my constant humidity and I would watch him really well I have to stick together with the Southern us Growers like Rick and Todd on that question. 👉👵👈
Well, for once 'Roger' took the easy way and potted them.
Roger Frampton and holy clay pots with bark and maybe a little bit of moss was I right. did I guess what Rodger would do because if I did that means I've been paying attention to you. I might not know fancy names but I know what you would do in your case and your ground conditions and I know what would be the right thing to do for us growing conditions👉👵👈
Libby's Little Garden p
Clay pots!
Done.
I would pot the cat with a new growth
Actually both of them
Done.