When the scale is not precise enough to dose the microelements, I dilute a greater quantity of them in water and then take a fraction of it. For example, needing 0.005gr of copper sulphate, I can dilute 0.05gr in 100ml of water and put 10ml (~10gr) of it into the fertilizer.
Thanks for commenting. That is the right approach if you want to be accurate and your scale - like mine - sucks. I honestly didn't think I would be having this sensitivity issues with the scale as I had weighed low quantities (certainly not as low) before.
Hi Dr Fernandez (or Daniel, if I may). Thank you so much for all of your research, hard work, and demonstrations. I see all of these things as separate efforts and appreciate you for each of these and the motivation that drives you to keep doing all of this for those of us who enjoy it. I do have one request. I've just been appreciating the idea that scaling a volumetric measurement by using the weight of your solvent, is something that I learned in my university days way back in the 1990's. I wanted to ask if you wouldn't mind demonstrating the accuracy and reliability of HydroBuddy. By that, I mean, it would be cool to see you show the desired ppm's of your formulation (in HB of course, as you've shown in your other videos). Then mix the formulation according to the 'recipe'. And then, the part that I haven't seen yet - using the concentrate you just mixed, to make a diluted solution that would be used in a hydroponics system. I would be interested to see if the EC of the final diluted solution matches what was expected in HydroBuddy. And, if possible, it would be awesome to see that solution tested, for content, to know if the NPK (et al) ppms match what was desired. Is that thought somewhat cohesive? I guess I'm trying to say that I am thankful for your work, I enjoy your videos and appreciate the knowledge that you are distributing (for free) but at the same time, my inner biologist is wondering what the significance (or impact on final product) is when my margin of error is +/- 0.02g of some ingredient that is used in smaller quantities while mixing. (Sorry, but I forgot which it ingredient this thought pertained to was).
I love these series :) So much to learn from them. I would like to someday create a subtitle in my language and send it to you so people can come here and learn. It's really hard to get quality contents like this where I live. I actually have quite a few questions, if you have the time, please :) 1. Is there a reason why you added salts of larger amounts first, unlike the first vid? 2. For those of us who use a different chelated micronutrients premix, which micronutrient should we base our amount on? So, say if the micronutrient I bought has more Zinc or Boron than the one usually used in hydroponics, should we just go with a lower amount of Cu, Mn, Mo, or even Fe, so that we don't get too much Zn or B in our solution? 3. In Hydrobuddy, iron is in the default set as to be mixed in solution A. Is this something you decided to change or should I still follow what it tells me? 4. I usually create a 1L batch of 1:250 solution by dissolving the hard to dissolve salts in 3 batches of 250ml volumetric flask and then mixing in the rest in the last 250ml. Wouldn't doing this save time by not having to make concentrates too often, and also having the benefit of not needing to use sodium benzoate by being more concentrated? or is there a problem in this practice? Also, not a question but a small bug report: the accuracy of the scale does not save correctly in Hydrobuddy. Thank you again for your wonderful content. 10/10!
Thanks for commenting and supporting my channel! It makes me happy to read people are enjoying the content. About your questions: 1. In this particular case I needed the pH to be set for the chelating agent to properly work, so I needed to make the large additions first due to this reason in solution B. The order of addition can be optimized depending on what you care about most (reducing the cost of potential mistakes, increasing the speed of dissolution, avoid having to heat, etc). In the case of solution A, it was just easier to use the beaker and weigh the heavier substance first. 2. Many micro blends are not meant to be used in hydroponics and have unacceptable ratios. For example, many micro nutrient blends are made for foliar spraying and their Zn or Cu is just too large to be used in hydroponics. If your micro blend does not comply with the normal ratios used in hydroponics, I would say it is preferable to just prepare your own micro nutrient solution from raw salts. Make sure the micro blend is designed for hydroponics, note that this is NOT the same as fertirrigation. 3. It is common to mix iron chelates in solution A, to avoid problems when some of the other micronutrients are not chelated. If everything is chelated you can put Fe in A or B, especially if B is set to an acidic pH (3-4). In this case, I put it in the B solution because I wanted to only add chelating agent to the B solution. 4. In this case, you would have a lower error by using a 1L volumetric flask, instead of doing 4 additions. Also you will need to use sodium benzoate, regardless of the concentration of the solution, if you use chelates and intend to store the solution for any significant period of time. Sometimes making 1:250 can be very hard if the inputs are not pure enough, in this case - where I have quite low quality inputs that are often found in developing countries - going for such high concentrations can be counter productive when generating chelates in situ. About your bug report: Thanks, I will look into it! Thanks again for commenting, I hope the above answers your questions :)
Isn't the amount of sulfate in the solutions going to supply a hefty amount of sulphur to the plants? I got that u chose sulfates because of them being somewhat readily available and cost effective, but i'd love to hear if there is a decent alternative to the Potassium Sulfate in the mix :) Also you make by far the most informative and in-depth content about this on youtube, thanks for this
Thanks for commenting! Tetrasodium EDTA is definitely easier to dissolve. Bear in mind that disodium EDTA will dissolve at lower pH if you have heavy metal ions present that can get chelated. The chelation of the heavy metals displaces the equilibrium and fully dissolves the disodium EDTA, even at acidic pH values.
Hey, thanks for the awesome content and for answering my last comment too. Ive been having tons of fun mixing my own solutions lately. Ive also noticed that when i add peroxide to keep my system cleaner (rather than something like hydroguard) my solution turns cloudy over the span of a few hours. Im assuming that it's reacting with something and causing precipate? Should i be worried? Thanks and please keep making great videos.
I have problems with 3 inputs. These are Iron Sulfate monohydrate, Zinc Sulfate heptahydrate and Manganese Sulfate 98% Feed Grade. These are not the same as what you used. Can you help me by giving me the correct weight for these inputs?
I really like your channel and watching it almost daily. I am also a subscriber and signed up with your newsletter.
Hello Dr. Danniel, Thanks verry much for sharing this information with the world. I was searching for the chemicals to compose the solution and encountered I problem. I can’t Find the anhydrous iron sulfate but the iron sulfate heptahydrate is available. The same problem with Manganese Sulfate (anhydrous), the monohydrate is available. The Zinc Sulfate (monohydrate) seems not to exist according to Wikipedia? Witch replacement to use for those chemicals and how to adjust the amount in the formula. Please keep in mind that I m not a Chemist. Thanks verry much for you reply. 👍
Hi Daniel, it is great that you are sharing very informative videos on nutrient solutions and help people who don't have access to Hydroponics Solutions. Just wanted to check if I have to prepare 1000ml instead of 250ml, Can I multiple the weights of individual salts by 4 times? Would it yield the same concentration as yours. Thank you.
Thanks for commenting. Most plants should grow healthy with this solution - especially when producing only leaves - if root zone pH and EC are properly managed and root zone aeration and irrigation are adequate.
Hello Daniel, great series, I really enjoy it. One question, if I substitute boric acid with liquid boric acid (purity >99.5%) ... how many ml should I add instead of the 0.072g. cheers, Leonardo
You will need to calculate the % of Boron in your product by volume and then calculate how much you would need to replace the solid boric acid addition. I cannot tell you from the data provided.
Is it possible to find your formula or recipe in a format that I can copy and paste? Id love to have a printed sheet that I could more easily follow. I cant seem to copy the recipe that you provided in the video description.
@10:40 if you face such situation, there is always possibility, at least for soluble substances - you can weigh more mass, say 500mg, dissolve it in volumetric flask, fill up to mark, and then get 1:100 of full flask volume by pipette. You got these 5 miligrams of substance precisely.
I love the formulas but also how you used sodium benzoate in a probable vitamin C environment . Plants can get rid of benzene but better not having that possibility
That's just purging. You wash it with a small amount of solution several times to ensure that the jar is washed of any impurities it might contain before you add the bulk of the solution.
Another great video! Thank you! Is there a general rule on using Sodium Benzoate? Like a formula how much do I need on a specific quantity of stock nutrient solution?
Thanks for commenting. That depends on the components of your solution, the pH of the solution and how it will be exposed to fungal spores. For a solution like this, 200mg/L is a high enough concentration, but solutions with additional carbon sources might requires substantially more. Bear in mind that benzoate is only an effective preservative at pH values lower than 5, if your stock solution is not acidic, then you will need to use other preservatives.
@@ScienceinHydroponics Interesting. Why is that? tbh I always store my concentrated solutions without any preservatives, because I thought the salt solution was concentrated enough to prevent real growth of anything. Then again, I never stored them for longer than 2 months 😛
Hi Daniel, thank you as always for the great videos and knowledge sharing for the hydroponics community. I was wondering about the amount of disodium edta to be added to the heavy metal solution at higher concentration. Say at a 1:200 concentration factor (with higher grade starting material) at 250mL, do I just multiply it from 1.8g to 3.6? Thanks again and cheers from Thailand.🇹🇭
As in my previous video, this is a generic formulation meant to grow all types of plants just fine. It is suboptimal for everything but generic enough to keep plants alive and well in most cases. It is however not optimal for either flowering plants nor leafy greens.
If you have hard water would you need to test the water beforehand to see how much calcium and magnesium is already there, or is that not necessary? Thanks for the videos :)
Thanks for commenting. You do need to test your water if you intend to use the nutrients along your water source without treatment. You then need to create a formulation where that Mg and Ca are accounted for.
Hello Daniel,I am a european fellow of yours,what values do you suggest in my formulation including average 50ppm of calcium and 27 of Magnesium and a Total alkalinity of 240ppm Carbonates of my tap water,considering It Is for Coco coir Hydroponic cultivars? I have problems with Coco coir specific formulation fertilizers and calcium uptake/lockout
In this case you likely need to prepare your own formulation using phosphoric and sulfuric acids to adjust the pH and raw fertilizers to prepare the solutions. Commercial hydroponic fertilizers are not made to account for alkalinity or Mg content this high. If you require additional help, please consider booking an hour of consulting time.
Do you have any recommendations for getting the salts to dissolve? I am trying to add potassium sulfate to my nutrients but I'm struggling to get it completely dissolved.
Thanks for commenting! Potassium sulfate is a classic problematic salt. Most sources are rather low purity and will be quite difficult to dissolve and - even then - substantial insoluble impurities will remain. Heating the solution helps dissolve things. As a rule of thumb, don't go above 1:200 if you're using K sulfate, especially if the quality of the sulfate is not very high. You can also recrystallize K sulfate if you want to improve the quality of the input. If possible, try to avoid using it if you don't have access to a recrystallized, high purity potassium sulfate.
@@ScienceinHydroponics I liked the idea because I think I also can use more sulfur for my nutrients. What do you recommend as a potassium boost instead? Or do you know a good source of potassium sulfate? I am using Down to Earth.
Higher quality potassium sulfates are sources like Yara and Haifa irrigation grade salts. Like YaraTera Krista SOP. The Down to Earth potassium sulfate is low quality in terms of solubility. As a replacement to potassium sulfate, you can choose to use more potassium nitrate and mono potassium phosphate, reducing your Ca nitrate and Mg nitrate use if necessary. There are also salts like potassium citrate and potassium acetate that can be used, although with some problems because of the carbon source that's added with them.
These nutrients are not meant for any specific period of plant growth. They are generic, meaning that they will fit overall plant needs. However, they do not provide additional Ca, P or K which might be desirable during flowering and fruiting stages for fruiting crops.
Most of this seems no different than building furniture from Ikea or assembling a computer from components. It's just a process. What struck me was the order of the additions. You mentioned adding one of them early in the preparation to eliminate the heavy metals precipitating out of solution later on. Like how do you know that? Is that just knowledge gained through a Chemistry education? Is there some kind of order of operations chapter in an organic chemistry textbook that informs you of what will cause things to fall out of solution? When I first started hydroponics I would use a full strength ph down into my reservoir and a cloud would form. I learned it was precipitates falling out but I never understood how people know exactly what was happening.
Thanks for commenting. In chemistry you normally learn some simple solubility rules during your very first chemistry courses. When you learn about chemical equilibria you learn about how pH affects the substances present in solution and their solubility, as well as concepts such as the constant solubility product, which are very useful to understand the solubility of substances. After you go through the degree you gain enough experience to be good at forecasting whether things will precipitate or not depending on the ions present and solution conditions.
Quick question, so I am trying to replicate a well known brand fertilzier that has micro, grow, and bloom. Using salts, that means I would have to prepare 6 bottles from A and B solutions for all three? How are these companies able to combine A and B without worrying about compatibility and precipitation? Thanks
There are many ways to formulate solutions. What you have there is an A/B/C configuration, where you use A/B/C at different proportions through a growth cycle. You can get lab analysis for each bottle and then just copy each bottle exactly, no need to do 3, A/B splits. Which inputs to use depends exactly on what goes into each bottle.
@@ScienceinHydroponics Thanks for the quick reply. For us hobby growers, without getting a lab analysis for each bottle due to cost and the fact that plants are pretty resilient; how are we able to create those solutions without precipitation and without 3 A/B splits? I am sure this will help many watching your videos that are trying to create solutions that are not in the extreme side of becoming 100% accurate with the exact figures?
@@ScienceinHydroponics I have also read your blog on ABC solution, but how are we able to find compounds that are able to be used as the shared C solution? Do we just play around with it? My process was dissect the elements for each bottle and then bought salts that could make each bottle into A/B for each. Though there are some common elements, I’m having trouble finding common compound that would mix to equal the the numbers of ppm and obviously I would also have to set the weights for the common on compound once found.
@@jasonsu2148 If you are new to nutrient preparation then I would advise you stick to A/B preparations for the start - which HydroBuddy can help you mix more easily - you can then change to more complicated setups when you get more experience. Figure out the final ppm targets you want to get in your solution, then create a single A/B mix for it. Choosing salts comes from knowledge about chemical interactions between compounds and experience in the mixing of solutions. So sadly it is not easy to summarize in a short reply. Also bear in mind that the labels on bottled nutrients are often not an accurate representation of what's actually in the bottle - differences can be quite big - so chemical analysis is a requirement if you want to reproduce bottled nutrients. If you go of f the label then your results will likely be very different compared to those bottles, even if you are able to match what the bottles have on the label. If you want to make your own fertilizer, then I believe you are likely to be more successful using a traditional hydroponic formulation like a Hoagland solution - rather than trying to copy some commercial nutrient without a proper analysis.
@@ScienceinHydroponics thank you so much, last question I am sure many want to know, if we do spend the money to do analysis. What information would it give us? The exact compound to use or would it just give us the exact ppm of elements?
Thanks for writing. You can do this only if you add an Fe chelate directly. The process here, using Fe sulfate to then generate the chelate with disodium EDTA, cannot be done if adding Fe to the A.
I downloaded your calculator but in substance selection there is no manganese sulphate to select from list. Previously it was there but now many salts are missing from the selection list. Could you please let us know why. I don't have manganese edta. Could you please help how I can use Manganese sulphate
Thanks for commenting. Please read this blog post for more information about the default database in hydrobuddy (scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/08/about-the-default-fertilizer-database-in-hydrobuddy.html). You can add any substance you want by using the "Add New" button and entering the composition information for the desired substance.
@@ScienceinHydroponics thank you for your reply. I greatly appreciate your efforts to make available such a great hydroponics nutrient calculator and that is for free. I am trying to grow hydroponically from many years now. Your website helped me a lot. I live in India and hydroponics nutrients were not available at all back then. So I decided to make my own and your calculator and website came in to my life like an angel. I am hobbyist grower and don't make any income out of it. If in future I made some .. definitely I would be happy to donate or I would say reward your immense efforts. Thanks once again.
Finally, the video I've been looking for. So many videos claiming DIY nutrients only to be disappointed. Thank you 🙏🏼👍🏻✌🏼
Thanks for commenting! Let us know about your experience if you make them.
I liked the tips on EDTA and sodium benzoate for preserving the solution, thank you!
You're amazing and generous. Bless you a lot. Thank you
When the scale is not precise enough to dose the microelements, I dilute a greater quantity of them in water and then take a fraction of it. For example, needing 0.005gr of copper sulphate, I can dilute 0.05gr in 100ml of water and put 10ml (~10gr) of it into the fertilizer.
Thanks for commenting. That is the right approach if you want to be accurate and your scale - like mine - sucks. I honestly didn't think I would be having this sensitivity issues with the scale as I had weighed low quantities (certainly not as low) before.
Hi Dr Fernandez (or Daniel, if I may). Thank you so much for all of your research, hard work, and demonstrations. I see all of these things as separate efforts and appreciate you for each of these and the motivation that drives you to keep doing all of this for those of us who enjoy it.
I do have one request. I've just been appreciating the idea that scaling a volumetric measurement by using the weight of your solvent, is something that I learned in my university days way back in the 1990's.
I wanted to ask if you wouldn't mind demonstrating the accuracy and reliability of HydroBuddy. By that, I mean, it would be cool to see you show the desired ppm's of your formulation (in HB of course, as you've shown in your other videos). Then mix the formulation according to the 'recipe'. And then, the part that I haven't seen yet - using the concentrate you just mixed, to make a diluted solution that would be used in a hydroponics system. I would be interested to see if the EC of the final diluted solution matches what was expected in HydroBuddy.
And, if possible, it would be awesome to see that solution tested, for content, to know if the NPK (et al) ppms match what was desired.
Is that thought somewhat cohesive? I guess I'm trying to say that I am thankful for your work, I enjoy your videos and appreciate the knowledge that you are distributing (for free) but at the same time, my inner biologist is wondering what the significance (or impact on final product) is when my margin of error is +/- 0.02g of some ingredient that is used in smaller quantities while mixing. (Sorry, but I forgot which it ingredient this thought pertained to was).
meticulous every time...wonderful...mygreathanks and blessings
excellent info keep it going
Been following your website and read all articles, very nice the youtube channel getting some love now :)
Keep up the good work!
Cheers from Poland
Thanks for your comment and support! I am very happy you like it!
I love these series :) So much to learn from them.
I would like to someday create a subtitle in my language and send it to you so people can come here and learn. It's really hard to get quality contents like this where I live.
I actually have quite a few questions, if you have the time, please :)
1. Is there a reason why you added salts of larger amounts first, unlike the first vid?
2. For those of us who use a different chelated micronutrients premix, which micronutrient should we base our amount on? So, say if the micronutrient I bought has more Zinc or Boron than the one usually used in hydroponics, should we just go with a lower amount of Cu, Mn, Mo, or even Fe, so that we don't get too much Zn or B in our solution?
3. In Hydrobuddy, iron is in the default set as to be mixed in solution A. Is this something you decided to change or should I still follow what it tells me?
4. I usually create a 1L batch of 1:250 solution by dissolving the hard to dissolve salts in 3 batches of 250ml volumetric flask and then mixing in the rest in the last 250ml. Wouldn't doing this save time by not having to make concentrates too often, and also having the benefit of not needing to use sodium benzoate by being more concentrated? or is there a problem in this practice?
Also, not a question but a small bug report: the accuracy of the scale does not save correctly in Hydrobuddy.
Thank you again for your wonderful content. 10/10!
Thanks for commenting and supporting my channel! It makes me happy to read people are enjoying the content. About your questions:
1. In this particular case I needed the pH to be set for the chelating agent to properly work, so I needed to make the large additions first due to this reason in solution B. The order of addition can be optimized depending on what you care about most (reducing the cost of potential mistakes, increasing the speed of dissolution, avoid having to heat, etc). In the case of solution A, it was just easier to use the beaker and weigh the heavier substance first.
2. Many micro blends are not meant to be used in hydroponics and have unacceptable ratios. For example, many micro nutrient blends are made for foliar spraying and their Zn or Cu is just too large to be used in hydroponics. If your micro blend does not comply with the normal ratios used in hydroponics, I would say it is preferable to just prepare your own micro nutrient solution from raw salts. Make sure the micro blend is designed for hydroponics, note that this is NOT the same as fertirrigation.
3. It is common to mix iron chelates in solution A, to avoid problems when some of the other micronutrients are not chelated. If everything is chelated you can put Fe in A or B, especially if B is set to an acidic pH (3-4). In this case, I put it in the B solution because I wanted to only add chelating agent to the B solution.
4. In this case, you would have a lower error by using a 1L volumetric flask, instead of doing 4 additions. Also you will need to use sodium benzoate, regardless of the concentration of the solution, if you use chelates and intend to store the solution for any significant period of time. Sometimes making 1:250 can be very hard if the inputs are not pure enough, in this case - where I have quite low quality inputs that are often found in developing countries - going for such high concentrations can be counter productive when generating chelates in situ.
About your bug report: Thanks, I will look into it!
Thanks again for commenting, I hope the above answers your questions :)
please make a A and B Grow and a A and B Bloom 🙏
Thanks, I will consider doing a video about this!
Isn't the amount of sulfate in the solutions going to supply a hefty amount of sulphur to the plants?
I got that u chose sulfates because of them being somewhat readily available and cost effective, but i'd love to hear if there is a decent alternative to the Potassium Sulfate in the mix :)
Also you make by far the most informative and in-depth content about this on youtube, thanks for this
To dissolve disodium EDTA the water needs to be ph to 8 first. But Tetrasodium EDTA will dissolve in water because it has a high ph naturally.
Thanks for commenting! Tetrasodium EDTA is definitely easier to dissolve. Bear in mind that disodium EDTA will dissolve at lower pH if you have heavy metal ions present that can get chelated. The chelation of the heavy metals displaces the equilibrium and fully dissolves the disodium EDTA, even at acidic pH values.
Hey, thanks for the awesome content and for answering my last comment too. Ive been having tons of fun mixing my own solutions lately. Ive also noticed that when i add peroxide to keep my system cleaner (rather than something like hydroguard) my solution turns cloudy over the span of a few hours. Im assuming that it's reacting with something and causing precipate? Should i be worried? Thanks and please keep making great videos.
Thank you, so how do you dilute the solution to the plants?? Or you can give it directly to plants ?? Thanks
I have problems with 3 inputs. These are Iron Sulfate monohydrate, Zinc Sulfate heptahydrate and Manganese Sulfate 98% Feed Grade. These are not the same as what you used. Can you help me by giving me the correct weight for these inputs?
I really like your channel and watching it almost daily. I am also a subscriber and signed up with your newsletter.
Thank you
Hello Dr. Danniel,
Thanks verry much for sharing this information with the world. I was searching for the chemicals to compose the solution and encountered I problem. I can’t
Find the anhydrous iron sulfate but the iron sulfate heptahydrate is available. The same problem with Manganese Sulfate (anhydrous), the monohydrate is available. The Zinc Sulfate (monohydrate) seems not to exist according to Wikipedia?
Witch replacement to use for those chemicals and how to adjust the amount in the formula. Please keep in mind that I m not a Chemist. Thanks verry much for you reply. 👍
Hi Daniel, it is great that you are sharing very informative videos on nutrient solutions and help people who don't have access to Hydroponics Solutions. Just wanted to check if I have to prepare 1000ml instead of 250ml, Can I multiple the weights of individual salts by 4 times? Would it yield the same concentration as yours. Thank you.
Thanks for commenting! Exactly, just multiply the masses by 4 if your final volume is 1000mL and you'll each the same final concentrations.
sharing to my group...thanks a lot
Thanks for sharing!
Hi Dr Dan! Could this possibly be used as a veg solution for medicinal plants?
Thanks for commenting. Most plants should grow healthy with this solution - especially when producing only leaves - if root zone pH and EC are properly managed and root zone aeration and irrigation are adequate.
Can you recommend a substitute for the boric acid? I cant legally source it where I live :/
Hello. How to count Disodium EDTA? Thank you.
Hello Daniel, great series, I really enjoy it. One question, if I substitute boric acid with liquid boric acid (purity >99.5%) ... how many ml should I add instead of the 0.072g. cheers, Leonardo
You will need to calculate the % of Boron in your product by volume and then calculate how much you would need to replace the solid boric acid addition. I cannot tell you from the data provided.
What would be the N-P-K numbers for this solution? Great channel, thank you
Thanks for commenting. For solution A, the values are 1.72-0-0.079 for solution B they are 0-0.917-2.752.
Very nice video, but I've watched in another video to that EDTA is not very good
Hi What to do if iron sulphate(anhydrous) and magnesium sulphate(anhydrous) is not available?
Is it possible to find your formula or recipe in a format that I can copy and paste?
Id love to have a printed sheet that I could more easily follow. I cant seem to copy the recipe that you provided in the video description.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will think about a way to share it that is more friendly.
@10:40 if you face such situation, there is always possibility, at least for soluble substances - you can weigh more mass, say 500mg, dissolve it in volumetric flask, fill up to mark, and then get 1:100 of full flask volume by pipette. You got these 5 miligrams of substance precisely.
Thanks for commenting. Certainly! That is a great way to do it, in fact the preferable way to do it when weighing things at such low masses.
I love the formulas but also how you used sodium benzoate in a probable vitamin C environment . Plants can get rid of benzene but better not having that possibility
The amount in the final solution is going to be extremely low. No significant plant uptake into tissue would be expected.
I did not get the reason why the top of solution you throw away from the flask right before you put it in the final jar, thank you.
That's just purging. You wash it with a small amount of solution several times to ensure that the jar is washed of any impurities it might contain before you add the bulk of the solution.
Can you please list the recipe for the best nutrition for leafy greens?
I will consider this for a future video.
Another great video! Thank you! Is there a general rule on using Sodium Benzoate? Like a formula how much do I need on a specific quantity of stock nutrient solution?
Thanks for commenting. That depends on the components of your solution, the pH of the solution and how it will be exposed to fungal spores. For a solution like this, 200mg/L is a high enough concentration, but solutions with additional carbon sources might requires substantially more. Bear in mind that benzoate is only an effective preservative at pH values lower than 5, if your stock solution is not acidic, then you will need to use other preservatives.
Do you think using a bit of Hydrogen peroxide is a good idea?
No, it is not a good idea.
@@ScienceinHydroponics Interesting. Why is that? tbh I always store my concentrated solutions without any preservatives, because I thought the salt solution was concentrated enough to prevent real growth of anything. Then again, I never stored them for longer than 2 months 😛
@@ScienceinHydroponics Thank you so much!
Hi Daniel, thank you as always for the great videos and knowledge sharing for the hydroponics community. I was wondering about the amount of disodium edta to be added to the heavy metal solution at higher concentration. Say at a 1:200 concentration factor (with higher grade starting material) at 250mL, do I just multiply it from 1.8g to 3.6? Thanks again and cheers from Thailand.🇹🇭
Thanks for writing. You can certainly just multiply proportionately for the higher concentration.
this can be used for foliar?
Thanks Sir, Please explain me , is it for leafy veg. Or flowering ones?
As in my previous video, this is a generic formulation meant to grow all types of plants just fine. It is suboptimal for everything but generic enough to keep plants alive and well in most cases. It is however not optimal for either flowering plants nor leafy greens.
If you have hard water would you need to test the water beforehand to see how much calcium and magnesium is already there, or is that not necessary? Thanks for the videos :)
Thanks for commenting. You do need to test your water if you intend to use the nutrients along your water source without treatment. You then need to create a formulation where that Mg and Ca are accounted for.
How many gallons of nutrient solution can you make with this concentrate?
This question is answered within the description of the video.
Hello Daniel,I am a european fellow of yours,what values do you suggest in my formulation including average 50ppm of calcium and 27 of Magnesium and a Total alkalinity of 240ppm Carbonates of my tap water,considering It Is for Coco coir Hydroponic cultivars?
I have problems with Coco coir specific formulation fertilizers and calcium uptake/lockout
In this case you likely need to prepare your own formulation using phosphoric and sulfuric acids to adjust the pH and raw fertilizers to prepare the solutions. Commercial hydroponic fertilizers are not made to account for alkalinity or Mg content this high. If you require additional help, please consider booking an hour of consulting time.
You say that these are EASY to purchase but I haven't got a clue where to buy this kind of stuff........
Nowadays you can buy them in ebay, amazon or locally in chemical supply or agricultural shops.
Do you have any recommendations for getting the salts to dissolve? I am trying to add potassium sulfate to my nutrients but I'm struggling to get it completely dissolved.
Thanks for commenting! Potassium sulfate is a classic problematic salt. Most sources are rather low purity and will be quite difficult to dissolve and - even then - substantial insoluble impurities will remain. Heating the solution helps dissolve things. As a rule of thumb, don't go above 1:200 if you're using K sulfate, especially if the quality of the sulfate is not very high. You can also recrystallize K sulfate if you want to improve the quality of the input. If possible, try to avoid using it if you don't have access to a recrystallized, high purity potassium sulfate.
@@ScienceinHydroponics I liked the idea because I think I also can use more sulfur for my nutrients. What do you recommend as a potassium boost instead? Or do you know a good source of potassium sulfate? I am using Down to Earth.
Higher quality potassium sulfates are sources like Yara and Haifa irrigation grade salts. Like YaraTera Krista SOP. The Down to Earth potassium sulfate is low quality in terms of solubility. As a replacement to potassium sulfate, you can choose to use more potassium nitrate and mono potassium phosphate, reducing your Ca nitrate and Mg nitrate use if necessary. There are also salts like potassium citrate and potassium acetate that can be used, although with some problems because of the carbon source that's added with them.
Are the Nutrients same during different stages of plant? For which stage of plant we can provide this nutient
These nutrients are not meant for any specific period of plant growth. They are generic, meaning that they will fit overall plant needs. However, they do not provide additional Ca, P or K which might be desirable during flowering and fruiting stages for fruiting crops.
Can iron sulfate anhydrous be swapped out with Ferrous Sulfate Heptahydrate?
Yes, but you should correct the mass to account for the same moles of Fe.
Most of this seems no different than building furniture from Ikea or assembling a computer from components. It's just a process. What struck me was the order of the additions. You mentioned adding one of them early in the preparation to eliminate the heavy metals precipitating out of solution later on. Like how do you know that? Is that just knowledge gained through a Chemistry education? Is there some kind of order of operations chapter in an organic chemistry textbook that informs you of what will cause things to fall out of solution?
When I first started hydroponics I would use a full strength ph down into my reservoir and a cloud would form. I learned it was precipitates falling out but I never understood how people know exactly what was happening.
Thanks for commenting. In chemistry you normally learn some simple solubility rules during your very first chemistry courses. When you learn about chemical equilibria you learn about how pH affects the substances present in solution and their solubility, as well as concepts such as the constant solubility product, which are very useful to understand the solubility of substances. After you go through the degree you gain enough experience to be good at forecasting whether things will precipitate or not depending on the ions present and solution conditions.
Quick question, so I am trying to replicate a well known brand fertilzier that has micro, grow, and bloom. Using salts, that means I would have to prepare 6 bottles from A and B solutions for all three? How are these companies able to combine A and B without worrying about compatibility and precipitation? Thanks
There are many ways to formulate solutions. What you have there is an A/B/C configuration, where you use A/B/C at different proportions through a growth cycle. You can get lab analysis for each bottle and then just copy each bottle exactly, no need to do 3, A/B splits. Which inputs to use depends exactly on what goes into each bottle.
@@ScienceinHydroponics Thanks for the quick reply. For us hobby growers, without getting a lab analysis for each bottle due to cost and the fact that plants are pretty resilient; how are we able to create those solutions without precipitation and without 3 A/B splits? I am sure this will help many watching your videos that are trying to create solutions that are not in the extreme side of becoming 100% accurate with the exact figures?
@@ScienceinHydroponics I have also read your blog on ABC solution, but how are we able to find compounds that are able to be used as the shared C solution? Do we just play around with it? My process was dissect the elements for each bottle and then bought salts that could make each bottle into A/B for each. Though there are some common elements, I’m having trouble finding common compound that would mix to equal the the numbers of ppm and obviously I would also have to set the weights for the common on compound once found.
@@jasonsu2148 If you are new to nutrient preparation then I would advise you stick to A/B preparations for the start - which HydroBuddy can help you mix more easily - you can then change to more complicated setups when you get more experience.
Figure out the final ppm targets you want to get in your solution, then create a single A/B mix for it.
Choosing salts comes from knowledge about chemical interactions between compounds and experience in the mixing of solutions. So sadly it is not easy to summarize in a short reply.
Also bear in mind that the labels on bottled nutrients are often not an accurate representation of what's actually in the bottle - differences can be quite big - so chemical analysis is a requirement if you want to reproduce bottled nutrients. If you go of f the label then your results will likely be very different compared to those bottles, even if you are able to match what the bottles have on the label.
If you want to make your own fertilizer, then I believe you are likely to be more successful using a traditional hydroponic formulation like a Hoagland solution - rather than trying to copy some commercial nutrient without a proper analysis.
@@ScienceinHydroponics thank you so much, last question I am sure many want to know, if we do spend the money to do analysis. What information would it give us? The exact compound to use or would it just give us the exact ppm of elements?
How to judge the quantity of sodium benzoate that is to be added?
This depends on the contamination burden you expect, but normally 400mg/gal is a good start.
Can I use manganese sulfate (monohydrate)
Yes, you can. You need to adjust the amount proportionally to the difference in molar mass with the source I used though.
Measurements please
can i use calcium ammunium nitrate alternat of calcium nitrate.
The video uses agricultural calcium nitrate, which is calcium ammonium nitrate.
Can I use zinc sulfate .7H2O?
Yes, you can. You need to adjust the amount proportionally to the difference in molar mass with the source I used though.
What is the ratio between various salt
Thanks for writing. You can calculate whichever ratios you need from the data provided in the description.
What if I put iron chellate A mix❓
Thanks for writing. You can do this only if you add an Fe chelate directly. The process here, using Fe sulfate to then generate the chelate with disodium EDTA, cannot be done if adding Fe to the A.
@@ScienceinHydroponics but I see many videos they add iron chelate on A mix with calcium nitrate and potassium sulfate I they are wrong❓
truly economic salts if you knownwhere to look at
What can i say...thanks!
Thanks for your support!
I downloaded your calculator but in substance selection there is no manganese sulphate to select from list. Previously it was there but now many salts are missing from the selection list. Could you please let us know why. I don't have manganese edta. Could you please help how I can use Manganese sulphate
Thanks for commenting. Please read this blog post for more information about the default database in hydrobuddy (scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/08/about-the-default-fertilizer-database-in-hydrobuddy.html). You can add any substance you want by using the "Add New" button and entering the composition information for the desired substance.
@@ScienceinHydroponics thank you for your reply. I greatly appreciate your efforts to make available such a great hydroponics nutrient calculator and that is for free. I am trying to grow hydroponically from many years now. Your website helped me a lot. I live in India and hydroponics nutrients were not available at all back then. So I decided to make my own and your calculator and website came in to my life like an angel. I am hobbyist grower and don't make any income out of it. If in future I made some .. definitely I would be happy to donate or I would say reward your immense efforts. Thanks once again.
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