thanx, your video gave me confidence. A few notes: 1- I didn't have to remove the axel nut 2- I did remove wipers, cowl and wiper motor assy; made accessing the upper strut mount bolts easier. 3- I used the new bolts n washer hardware that was included.
Reposting becuase I think its usuful info: 2011 Nissan Sentra You don't need to remove the axel nut. Also, defitnely recommend putting some rust penetrator like WD-40 (or something stronger) on the shock bolts. Front struts took me and my dad maybe 40-50 mins for both including prep and lifting the car. Bottom rear shock bolts were so rusted took us 6 hours to take them off. We tried everything from pneumatic tools, blow torch, elbow grease, and almost just cut off the bolts but we managed to take the bolt out. Those bolts are hard to find at stores unless you go to specific online shops that could take weeks to get you the parts. We reused them as we were carful to not to damage them, but added some anti-rust coating to them if anyone wants to replace those in another 10 years lol. Another tip, we found the top bolts to the rear shocks easy to take off so start with those and use the shock as levarge to wiggly free the bottom bolt. Hope this helps!
@6:49 Are you planning to apply Blue Thread Locker probably? Everyone applied Blue on those bolts. You said Red Thread Locker on those 3 top Mounting Bolts, but if you need to remove them later, how to go about it? It would be kind of difficult to apply heat in that area. I'm sorry if I misunderstood smth. here. Thank you again for the film.
@0:23 and @10:46 the Hub Cap is not fm/this car or smth. It has 5 nuts, and the wheel has 4 Lug Nuts. Since it clicks on that probably doesn't matter, but on my 2009 Nissan Sentra the Hub Caps can't be removed unless you unscrew all 4 Lug Nuts. The Hub Nuts are secured by the Lug Nuts. I tried 1st to pop it out and it didn't come out, then I realized that the cups are kept by the Lug Nuts. These are small remarks, the film is just great, with all the torques, it is the best film to watch before that job, if you never did it before. Thank you.
1:15 Ok, so what if the upper sway bar link nut will not come off because the "something to be able to grab onto" is stripped or rounded that a wrench will not hold it? I have tried PB Blaster as well as locking vice grips and nothing will hold tight enough to get the nut off.
@6:20 While on the vehicle, before you remove those 3 mounting nuts it is better to brake a bit (don't remove, just slightly break, maybe 1/2 turn or so) the piston rod nut (the nut in the center of the strut tower), since it would be very hard to break it when not on the car. I did so on another car (2001 Saturn SL2), but it is the same, on all 4 towers. When it is broken you can work on the assembly at your convenience without struggling w/those piston rod nuts on the ground. Now in Haynes it says to remove the cowl before those 3 mounting nuts, and that involves removing the wiper motor. I'm so glad you didn't need to remove that motor, and just removed the cowl. That is probably for other cars covered by the Haynes book I have (it is for Nissan Sentra 2007 through 2012). We have 2009 Nissan Sentra. Hopefully I don't need to remove the wiper blades motor either. Thank you so much for this great and detailed film, especially for showing how to work on the cowl in all small steps. I want to add that I bought some parts fm TRQ and they were very good. Thank you again.
I took the whole thing apart didn't have the right tools put it back together drove to AutoZone on my way home about to tear it apart 63$ in sockets later
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
thanx, your video gave me confidence.
A few notes:
1- I didn't have to remove the axel nut
2- I did remove wipers, cowl and wiper motor assy; made accessing the upper strut mount bolts easier.
3- I used the new bolts n washer hardware that was included.
Same here, didn't see necessary to remove de Axel nut
Man this is the best video of how to fix it that I've seen yet. Step by step u nail it. I appreciate it keep up the good work
Reposting becuase I think its usuful info: 2011 Nissan Sentra
You don't need to remove the axel nut.
Also, defitnely recommend putting some rust penetrator like WD-40 (or something stronger) on the shock bolts. Front struts took me and my dad maybe 40-50 mins for both including prep and lifting the car. Bottom rear shock bolts were so rusted took us 6 hours to take them off. We tried everything from pneumatic tools, blow torch, elbow grease, and almost just cut off the bolts but we managed to take the bolt out. Those bolts are hard to find at stores unless you go to specific online shops that could take weeks to get you the parts. We reused them as we were carful to not to damage them, but added some anti-rust coating to them if anyone wants to replace those in another 10 years lol.
Another tip, we found the top bolts to the rear shocks easy to take off so start with those and use the shock as levarge to wiggly free the bottom bolt. Hope this helps!
Very well done guide.Appreciate the torque specifications on all the bolts.
Thank you sir!
Once again...FANTASTICO !
Excellent video. I needed to see how the cowl was removed. Thanks for your efforts bud.
Thank you. I will follow your instructions to do it for my 07 Sentra. 150K miles with original struts.
Why remove the axel nut?
Of least 34k this model sentras still cruising today. Thanke man
Awesome. Doing this in about 2 weeks.
@6:49 Are you planning to apply Blue Thread Locker probably? Everyone applied Blue on those bolts. You said Red Thread Locker on those 3 top Mounting Bolts, but if you need to remove them later, how to go about it? It would be kind of difficult to apply heat in that area. I'm sorry if I misunderstood smth. here. Thank you again for the film.
Omg this makes me wanna work on peoples cars watching your videos 😭now if my friends have any car troubles I can help them
great step by step video
Very good guide. But I thought red thread locker was the kind that required heat to remove.
@0:23 and @10:46 the Hub Cap is not fm/this car or smth. It has 5 nuts, and the wheel has 4 Lug Nuts. Since it clicks on that probably doesn't matter, but on my 2009 Nissan Sentra the Hub Caps can't be removed unless you unscrew all 4 Lug Nuts. The Hub Nuts are secured by the Lug Nuts. I tried 1st to pop it out and it didn't come out, then I realized that the cups are kept by the Lug Nuts. These are small remarks, the film is just great, with all the torques, it is the best film to watch before that job, if you never did it before. Thank you.
Did your vdc light and slipper sign came on after getting this part replaced?
Does the nut/bolt for the sway bar link take a 21 or 20mm socket/wrench?
1:15
Ok, so what if the upper sway bar link nut will not come off because the "something to be able to grab onto" is stripped or rounded that a wrench will not hold it? I have tried PB Blaster as well as locking vice grips and nothing will hold tight enough to get the nut off.
@6:20 While on the vehicle, before you remove those 3 mounting nuts it is better to brake a bit (don't remove, just slightly break, maybe 1/2 turn or so) the piston rod nut (the nut in the center of the strut tower), since it would be very hard to break it when not on the car. I did so on another car (2001 Saturn SL2), but it is the same, on all 4 towers. When it is broken you can work on the assembly at your convenience without struggling w/those piston rod nuts on the ground. Now in Haynes it says to remove the cowl before those 3 mounting nuts, and that involves removing the wiper motor. I'm so glad you didn't need to remove that motor, and just removed the cowl. That is probably for other cars covered by the Haynes book I have (it is for Nissan Sentra 2007 through 2012). We have 2009 Nissan Sentra. Hopefully I don't need to remove the wiper blades motor either. Thank you so much for this great and detailed film, especially for showing how to work on the cowl in all small steps. I want to add that I bought some parts fm TRQ and they were very good. Thank you again.
Very good 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I hate the little bolt inside the body frame dont have much space to work
I took the whole thing apart didn't have the right tools put it back together drove to AutoZone on my way home about to tear it apart 63$ in sockets later
to memorize the torque nut number to every bolt is annoying..
Very good 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻