I watched this and got a little worried about my clunk when coming to a complete stop AND taking off from a complete stop. My diff fluid was dark and burnt smelling, but gears looked ok. I watched other videos explaining that the clunk is the rear driveshaft yoke sticking and releasing. I decided to drop the driveshaft and lube splines with trans fluid since it was the easy route. The great news is it worked beautifully. Not even a hint of a clunk. Mine is a 11.5” rear on a 2014 3500
So you dont beleive that little measureable amounts of backlash can translate into anything noteable. I should point out that the amount of rotation in the driveline was a quarter of an inch. You can see this by watching the bolt that bolts the driveshaft to the flange. Thereby eliminating any option for that amount of play to be anywhere other than at the flange. The amount of backlash was about .020 yet it translates into a whole quarter of an inch at the drive shaft. This is the source of the clunk.
Ever since I tunes mine when I let off the throttle and coast, then get back on it, it’s got a nice thud pretty shitty curious if it’s the rear or tcase?
I mean who knows really. But i would suspect the yoke in the driveline maybe sticking or maybe the tailshaft on the tranny. Hard to say. These transmissions do not handle anything other than the stock programming really. I know people will disagree. But over the extebded arc of history. The ones that fail are the ones that have hauled beyond recommended tow capacity and the ones where the shift programming has been altered.
It only takes 30 min to drop the drive shaft and grease splines. I was able to reuse the metal clamps for the rubber boot. Or just cut off and use quality zip ties
Oh man. I just changed the oil and let it clunk. Doesnt really bother me yet. Going to have to get worse. I never drive it anyway. Somebody made a comment to spray the driveshaft yoke, that it was sticking. I cinsidered that and thought. Eh. Doubt it but lets lube it anyways. I did . It changed nothing. Soo. As for now. She s a clunker
@@angrybeard4673from what I’m dealing with, clunking on shifting (automatic) and accelerating, it wasnt the black lash after I made sure it was within spec, searching more and inspecting mine and noticed my spider gears were sorta rounded off on my Chrysler 8.25 w/225k. Reading spider gear play can cause that clunking just like excessive backlash
I watched this and got a little worried about my clunk when coming to a complete stop AND taking off from a complete stop. My diff fluid was dark and burnt smelling, but gears looked ok. I watched other videos explaining that the clunk is the rear driveshaft yoke sticking and releasing. I decided to drop the driveshaft and lube splines with trans fluid since it was the easy route. The great news is it worked beautifully. Not even a hint of a clunk. Mine is a 11.5” rear on a 2014 3500
What videos did you watch explaining that it was the rear drive shaft yoke sticking? Can you share a link please?
ua-cam.com/video/suM5h1Be6Jc/v-deo.htmlsi=QUywnIBEXc-iOL9q
I am waiting on your next video homie.
Not causing a clunking problem with that little of backlash.
So you dont beleive that little measureable amounts of backlash can translate into anything noteable. I should point out that the amount of rotation in the driveline was a quarter of an inch. You can see this by watching the bolt that bolts the driveshaft to the flange. Thereby eliminating any option for that amount of play to be anywhere other than at the flange. The amount of backlash was about .020 yet it translates into a whole quarter of an inch at the drive shaft. This is the source of the clunk.
My 2014 3500 has 205,000 miles on it with severe towing and the clunk was the slip yoke at the rear needed lube.
Ever since I tunes mine when I let off the throttle and coast, then get back on it, it’s got a nice thud pretty shitty curious if it’s the rear or tcase?
I mean who knows really. But i would suspect the yoke in the driveline maybe sticking or maybe the tailshaft on the tranny. Hard to say. These transmissions do not handle anything other than the stock programming really. I know people will disagree. But over the extebded arc of history. The ones that fail are the ones that have hauled beyond recommended tow capacity and the ones where the shift programming has been altered.
It only takes 30 min to drop the drive shaft and grease splines. I was able to reuse the metal clamps for the rubber boot. Or just cut off and use quality zip ties
What automotive lift do you have in your shop ...I'm looking for one to do cars and my dodge ram diesel...
Cant recall. I have a you tube video on my channel somewhere. Drm or something like that
What happened after the 75w140 gear oil change?
Oh man. I just changed the oil and let it clunk. Doesnt really bother me yet. Going to have to get worse. I never drive it anyway. Somebody made a comment to spray the driveshaft yoke, that it was sticking. I cinsidered that and thought. Eh. Doubt it but lets lube it anyways. I did . It changed nothing. Soo. As for now. She s a clunker
@@angrybeard4673from what I’m dealing with, clunking on shifting (automatic) and accelerating, it wasnt the black lash after I made sure it was within spec, searching more and inspecting mine and noticed my spider gears were sorta rounded off on my Chrysler 8.25 w/225k. Reading spider gear play can cause that clunking just like excessive backlash