Good afternoon mate, Is it okay to use hydrated lime in the scratch coat? What do you reckon? I know that a lot of people don't use it because plasticizers are readily available. I don't think it would do much harm to the mix, but I'd like to know what you think. Thank you and I hope you're having a great weekend. :)
If your plastering old walls outside and your putting on three coats do you go 3 to 1 than 4to1 and final coat 5 to1 water proof into all coats or just last one..thanks
So, in the states we have very little to choose from unless we’re willing to put up our first born as collateral for the cost of products! I’m trying to figure out how to use the lime products you guys have access to out there historically because of its benefits- but again, we’re so limited. The only good “sand” types I can find to use is a 20 White quartz sand product they sell in a 50lb bag for pool filtration! Other than that I mix up hydrated lime from the hardware store which is $12 or so for a 50lb bag and let it putty in a bucket. My problem is that it “sheds” out the sand when I use it and it never quite looks like what you all do! If I go to find cement, like a quickrete etc- they all have large pebbles in them! How would I make your concoction out in the states? And thank you so much for all your wonderful tutorials!
sounds like the quickcrete you guys use loads of that to me is on most a rapid set concrete , so the mix i use here is a Portland cement with plastering sand its a sharp sand it dose have the grains in it but not to big that they are a pain to work with with a nice 5 to 10 mm coat , the sand is similar to paving sand or concrete sand again they are sharper sands meaning they have bigger partials. where as our plastering comes like i say sharp but not to sharp, white quartz sabd sounds expensive for general solid plastering / rendering you guys call stucco I think ....lime is good but it wont go as hard as cement it kinda still sets soft but most guys say its good as it drys out with the weather thing is over here we get wet and then wetter as it rains most the time even in summer it can be bad so if you where in a nice dry place for sure and again all depending what your plastering over the top off ? but if I was you i would hunt for Portland cement and nice sharp sand again building sand would be more fine and not great for plastering and rendering
I done this mix on the weekend and after the mix was in the barrow the water started to come to the top. The stuff at the bottom was very hard to work, any idea why that is? I used building sand.
Was reading and said to myself sounds like building sand to me but yes it was and its not good for rendering you want plastering sand mate it seems gritty but makes all the difference and stronger when applied
@@macplasteringwas at the quarry today and asked the driver if there's any plastering sand. He said building and plastering sand are the same and he gives out the same for both lol. He said there's also coarse sand, used for concrete, screed etc. I'm confused now, maybe mix the 2 sands together?
@@marble296 plastering sand is sharper than builg sand meaning it is more corse its what gives it great strength and workability where as building sand is softer and more clay like when mixed tends to want to stick to itself when used on walls plastering and slides shricks more causing cracking we get our sand out of a lake here and it would all be graded into its groups concrete sand tends to have big pips in kinda a nightmare when finishing so if you pland to make your own it be great idea to sive out the bigger grains
Perfect video for a diy man . Could you please advise on a perfect mix for flat wall copings and what could I add to create a nice portland white colour , rather than the natural cement colour . Great channel for the DIY er, thank you
@@macplasteringThanks for reply Yes , it is making copings which are odd ball size . This colour would be just about right . I can do a sample coping if I had an idea of the mix , and aggregate . Thanks again .
@@ringsidejudge4302 Oh ok mate so my white cement mix is white portland cement 1 part to 4 parts silver sand also now as silica sand, thing is you might want stone in yours to help with strength... are you going to run them or do you have a mould ?
Nice little video.ya the sharp sand is the way to go bud.u can see the difference between them straight away when u sprayed water on it.its something that can be mistaken easily by beginners or diy
@@macplastering oh u got the message across easily bud.the little demo was perfect.i was actually suprised how much of a difference there was myself.i knew the difference by looking at it before u sprayed but I didn't realise it be that noticable
A question for you if I could please. I don't do massive amounts of rendering, more internal work for me. I've heard a couple of old boys say If you were to scratch over a low suction substrate and a high suction substrate with the same mix with water proofer in, the top coat would pull in quicker on the low suction substrate that the high. Can you explain this at all? Much appreciated, Neil.
Hi Neil mate I dont thin ive ever herd that and never tried it either but if it dose work that way it might be that the moister / water is being pushed out and drying with the air faster than if it was soaking in some
@@macplastering thanks for taking the time to reply. Your idea makes sense. The only thing I have had which is close to it is if I am going over an SBR slurry, I've had the top coat pull in quicker over a concrete lintel than it has on the brickwork surrounding it. It's a funny old thing Sand and Cement isn't it. Great video's as well mate. Thankyou for making them. 👍
@@macplastering thanks for taking the time to reply. Your idea makes sense. The only thing I have had which is close to it is if I am going over an SBR slurry, I've had the top coat pull in quicker over a concrete lintel than it has on the brickwork surrounding it. It's a funny old thing Sand and Cement isn't it. Great video's as well mate. Thankyou for making them. 👍
@@neilmuir2752 Yea sand and cement can be for sure I to have had a few heads seem to pull in fast but thing is that could be a few things to how old are they the ratio they where made and the depth of coat on them, Thanks for watching mate
Thanks for another great video Mac, what are you using for waterproofing? Also, have you ever used lime in the top coat? I really appreciate the channel BTW, I'm plucking up the courage to render a garden room and the way you cover each of the stages of the process is excellent for a novice like myself!
I tend to stay away from lime but a taste will make a nice mix and can help set it off if its cold, yea man have a few video might be of good help for you rendering... its Larsen pink waterproffer its very good stuff
Funny how guys like different mixes but my methods have never failed me also i do belive we have great sand for our ratios mabe a more clay like sand is best with less cement but our sand is nice at our 3 to 1 then 4 to 1
@@macplastering the scratch has got to be stronger than the top,so if you are doing the topcoat at 4/1 you must be doing the scratch at 3/1. doesnt need to be that strong
@@shauncoughlan986 but it works for me like i said might depend on sand where u are whats is best ratio for that but again if you never tried it you wont know me i have done 5 to 1 as my weakest has had so many coats to do tell me what raito do you scud with ?
How to sand and cement render concrete block wall 1st coat scratch coat DIY
ua-cam.com/video/aCEGSUUl5Z4/v-deo.html
Good afternoon mate,
Is it okay to use hydrated lime in the scratch coat? What do you reckon? I know that a lot of people don't use it because plasticizers are readily available. I don't think it would do much harm to the mix, but I'd like to know what you think.
Thank you and I hope you're having a great weekend. :)
I dont tend to use lime m8 unless its all lime
If your plastering old walls outside and your putting on three coats do you go 3 to 1 than 4to1 and final coat 5 to1 water proof into all coats or just last one..thanks
Most times would be a scud coat if needed then 3 to 1 then 4 yo 1 mate
So, in the states we have very little to choose from unless we’re willing to put up our first born as collateral for the cost of products! I’m trying to figure out how to use the lime products you guys have access to out there historically because of its benefits- but again, we’re so limited. The only good “sand” types I can find to use is a 20 White quartz sand product they sell in a 50lb bag for pool filtration! Other than that I mix up hydrated lime from the hardware store which is $12 or so for a 50lb bag and let it putty in a bucket. My problem is that it “sheds” out the sand when I use it and it never quite looks like what you all do! If I go to find cement, like a quickrete etc- they all have large pebbles in them! How would I make your concoction out in the states? And thank you so much for all your wonderful tutorials!
sounds like the quickcrete you guys use loads of that to me is on most a rapid set concrete , so the mix i use here is a Portland cement with plastering sand its a sharp sand it dose have the grains in it but not to big that they are a pain to work with with a nice 5 to 10 mm coat , the sand is similar to paving sand or concrete sand again they are sharper sands meaning they have bigger partials. where as our plastering comes like i say sharp but not to sharp, white quartz sabd sounds expensive for general solid plastering / rendering you guys call stucco I think ....lime is good but it wont go as hard as cement it kinda still sets soft but most guys say its good as it drys out with the weather thing is over here we get wet and then wetter as it rains most the time even in summer it can be bad so if you where in a nice dry place for sure and again all depending what your plastering over the top off ? but if I was you i would hunt for Portland cement and nice sharp sand again building sand would be more fine and not great for plastering and rendering
Can't go wrong with the KISS System of mixing render. The sound of Stones in the Mixer, music to my 👂🧠👂 Home time/💰 in the Wallet 😜
Kiss system ? oh yes thats the sound of music and when the skim is turning brown is the sight for sore eyes :):)
KISS System ( Keep it Simple Stupid) 😜😂🤣
@@georgeomalley6066 haha never herd that one before
I done this mix on the weekend and after the mix was in the barrow the water started to come to the top.
The stuff at the bottom was very hard to work, any idea why that is? I used building sand.
Was reading and said to myself sounds like building sand to me but yes it was and its not good for rendering you want plastering sand mate it seems gritty but makes all the difference and stronger when applied
@@macplasteringwas at the quarry today and asked the driver if there's any plastering sand. He said building and plastering sand are the same and he gives out the same for both lol. He said there's also coarse sand, used for concrete, screed etc. I'm confused now, maybe mix the 2 sands together?
@@marble296 plastering sand is sharper than builg sand meaning it is more corse its what gives it great strength and workability where as building sand is softer and more clay like when mixed tends to want to stick to itself when used on walls plastering and slides shricks more causing cracking we get our sand out of a lake here and it would all be graded into its groups concrete sand tends to have big pips in kinda a nightmare when finishing so if you pland to make your own it be great idea to sive out the bigger grains
Definite like for the video. Thx.
Thanks for the nice comment & like my friend :)
Perfect video for a diy man . Could you please advise on a perfect mix for flat wall copings and what could I add to create a nice portland white colour , rather than the natural cement colour . Great channel for the DIY er, thank you
ua-cam.com/video/WXSVHSTqY9Y/v-deo.html something this colour mate ? Is it for laying or making acoping
@@macplasteringThanks for reply
Yes , it is making copings which are odd ball size . This colour would be just about right . I can do a sample coping if I had an idea of the mix , and aggregate . Thanks again .
@@ringsidejudge4302 Oh ok mate so my white cement mix is white portland cement 1 part to 4 parts silver sand also now as silica sand, thing is you might want stone in yours to help with strength... are you going to run them or do you have a mould ?
@@macplastering Thanks , back again . I am going to make moulds and drop in some 10mm re bar , for strength .
might want to up the cement ratio some stones might be better as they wont rust but for sure let me know how you get on mate sounds a nice project
We would use 18 long tail shovels to 1 bag of cement, a full mixer for us would be 54 shovels of sand and 3 bags of cement
Yes on site we do similar in the large mixers like 18 to a bag then 22 to a bag top coat
Nice little video.ya the sharp sand is the way to go bud.u can see the difference between them straight away when u sprayed water on it.its something that can be mistaken easily by beginners or diy
Glad it can be seen was trying to show it and explain but can be hard on video sometimes :) thanks for watching and commenting mate
@@macplastering oh u got the message across easily bud.the little demo was perfect.i was actually suprised how much of a difference there was myself.i knew the difference by looking at it before u sprayed but I didn't realise it be that noticable
Nice one man glad it came up well on the video :):) thanks again for al your support mate
Watching adverts for ya! 👀 Wickes
Hah good man was it anything good
A question for you if I could please. I don't do massive amounts of rendering, more internal work for me. I've heard a couple of old boys say If you were to scratch over a low suction substrate and a high suction substrate with the same mix with water proofer in, the top coat would pull in quicker on the low suction substrate that the high. Can you explain this at all?
Much appreciated, Neil.
Hi Neil mate I dont thin ive ever herd that and never tried it either but if it dose work that way it might be that the moister / water is being pushed out and drying with the air faster than if it was soaking in some
@@macplastering thanks for taking the time to reply. Your idea makes sense. The only thing I have had which is close to it is if I am going over an SBR slurry, I've had the top coat pull in quicker over a concrete lintel than it has on the brickwork surrounding it. It's a funny old thing Sand and Cement isn't it.
Great video's as well mate. Thankyou for making them. 👍
@@macplastering thanks for taking the time to reply. Your idea makes sense. The only thing I have had which is close to it is if I am going over an SBR slurry, I've had the top coat pull in quicker over a concrete lintel than it has on the brickwork surrounding it. It's a funny old thing Sand and Cement isn't it.
Great video's as well mate. Thankyou for making them. 👍
@@neilmuir2752 Yea sand and cement can be for sure I to have had a few heads seem to pull in fast but thing is that could be a few things to how old are they the ratio they where made and the depth of coat on them, Thanks for watching mate
@@macplastering always something to keep us on our toes.🙂 thanks mate. All the best. 👍👍
Thanks for another great video Mac, what are you using for waterproofing?
Also, have you ever used lime in the top coat?
I really appreciate the channel BTW, I'm plucking up the courage to render a garden room and the way you cover each of the stages of the process is excellent for a novice like myself!
I tend to stay away from lime but a taste will make a nice mix and can help set it off if its cold, yea man have a few video might be of good help for you rendering... its Larsen pink waterproffer its very good stuff
Brilliant
Cheers man hope your well
wet the barrow💪💪
I am trying to get the gear to set lol
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks wayne hope your doing well mate
Mix even better buddy if have them Finns on mixer a rattle with the hammer prior 😝
Thats for sure but man that stuff on so well i think the finns wil come away 1st LOL
@@macplastering
🤣🤣 hear ya buddy.
@@lmilne4859 crazy had some time the other day and gently chipped it all off =]
I thought he said it would all be kept simple.
as simple as possible is the words said and actions took
what part are you struggling with,
4/1 too strong for a topcoat
Have u tried it
Funny how guys like different mixes but my methods have never failed me also i do belive we have great sand for our ratios mabe a more clay like sand is best with less cement but our sand is nice at our 3 to 1 then 4 to 1
@@macplastering the scratch has got to be stronger than the top,so if you are doing the topcoat at 4/1 you must be doing the scratch at 3/1. doesnt need to be that strong
@@shauncoughlan986 but it works for me like i said might depend on sand where u are whats is best ratio for that but again if you never tried it you wont know me i have done 5 to 1 as my weakest has had so many coats to do tell me what raito do you scud with ?
@@macplastering im always on a 4/1 scratch and a 5/1/1/2 for the top
***** Can you speak CLEAR English, It is hard to understand what you are saying. *****