PLA Really Leaks? - Weird Behavior of Nylon When Exposed To Water...
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- Опубліковано 4 тра 2024
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This video investigated does PLA really leaks water, and we also took a look at how other materials (PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, NYLON, CF-PA, and PEEK) behave when exposed to the water. The results were unexpected.
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No, PLA dose not leak! The porosities in the print are the cause of the leak. If you print at the maximum indicated temp or about 10-20°C hotter, and slow down the print whit just the minimal cooling needed for the part to keep its shape it will not leak. Increasing the extrusion multiplier 1 or 2% may help too. PETG, ABS and the materials whit better flow characteristics tend to seal better to the previously deposited layer because they have better flow characteristics, sealing micro porosities!
wall thickness isnt the only thing to consider tho. layer height, squish, flow, time, etc theres a lot to consider beyond the material and. you can print with a "waterproof" seal on them with most slicer firmware nowadays. thicker walls only delay the permeation
Yep squish and gap filling are the key
yeah as long as the material itself doesn't dissolve or isn't permeable the printing process is the key to the leaking, not the material itself as such. hence the inconsistent results
plastic drinking cups are made out of PLA... it's not the material it's the printing and layer adhesion
The simple fact is that you are sticking hundreds of thin layers of plastic on top of eachother with nothing more than a little heat so... any print can leak, especially at seams.
I like the submersion test, but it does leave the possibility that they all leaked but so slowly that the water evaporated as quickly as it got in. Next time use some food-dye or other colorant so it will leave a clear stain on the inside if it does get through.
Or just put a lid on the box.
Just stick a piece of paper towel in the bottom, it will absorb any water that leaks in.
Adding hot glue to the underside could have introduced defects also.
PLA doesn't leak, as mentionned by others it's used in drinking cups, it's also a water vapor barrier in research applications. The problem is the 3D printing, it introduces defects, prorosity, degrade the PLA trough heat exposure etc. The gist of it is : Tune your settings to add walls and make layers squich more tightly and hotter and it won't leak anymore.
The way you tested means that the Hydraulic pressure of the water on the boxes wouldn't be consustent. As water fills the leaking box it would reduce pressure on the other boxes. I get that you were testing external pressues similar to a boat but you should have tested with the liquid inside the boxes. Also the change in direction of the print head to make a box, inherently, will lead to holes in the print try cylinders if you do this again.
Pretty excellent testing, dude! Thanks a bunch!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I just repeated the experiment with . I printed a small cylinder with the following parameters and it seems it passes the test:
- cylinder shapes, as with cube I've got holes in the corners of the first layer
- vase mode
- 0.8mm nozle
- two bottom layers
- temp: 235C, 60C heatbed
- extrusion multiplier: 1.1 (10% increase)
- filament: prusament pla mystic green
- speed: 35mm/s
- no fan (fan speed 0)
I have printed 6 watering jugs out of PLA+ and the first couple leaked due to layer gaps but after corrections the last 4 did not leak at all. These had walls 3 shells thick. The water did not come through the material, it came through gaps in the prints. PLA+ does not leak - poor prints do.
I have a printed 10L bucket in standing in my living room. With a 0.5 layer width and a slight over extrusion it's perfectly possible
I wanna bet if you cut it open there is water trapped in the walls.
@@BartJBols the walls are solid, but yes probably in some gaps
@ 8:00 it's clear that you have under extrusion as the main culprit for PLA leaking -- as usual, everytime i've heard this myth it's always been under extrusion -- it doesn't need much, just your filament swap is enough to do it.
Fully extruded? even single wall is watertight.
I just got my hands on Dichtol AM Makro and had really good results with a big PETG bucket that had bad print defects. No water leakage at all and the stuff dries extremely fast so you can put on several layers within minutes
I always thought it's not about the material but the printing process itself more or less. I thought you could melt pla easier to not leak tbh vs. abs.
You may be able to bake the print (like another 3d printing youtuber did for strengthening prints) to get sufficient layer adhesion to prevent leaks without needing clearcoat.
There's a video about annealing/sand re-flowing that provides another solution. Pack the box with sand and then re-melt it. They were getting gas-tight bottles.
I 3D printed a little water jug approx 2 years with a side spout to help in filling the dog water bowl up. Used PETG, and it’s never leaked. Thinking it was only two layers.
I think this is less about the material itself in regards to the leak as it's about the fact that you didn't seem to calibrate proper flow for every individual filament, you can clearly see the big gaps between the lines with your PLA box.
when it comes to printing pla and making it waterproof there are many factors with how many walls, infill, is the nozzle a tad bit closer to the bed which can create layers that are bonded together better than further apart, with me I haven't changed any settings but my nozzle is closer to the bed and I've gotten persistent clean prints that are waterproof and no defects but if your going to put it underwater then its best to have the infill at 100% as under pressure water will leak into the pockets with infill less than 100%
Use a wider nozzle, thicker layers and wider line width, and some extra extrusion multiplier. You will save time, and Not leak. I use a 1mm nozzle, 1.15mm width, and 0.55mm height.
Thank you for doing these projects. Question for you on weight of the thrust tube part - Ive printed one at 13.5 grams. Do you know the weight of yours printed in lw-pla?
Just brush some cheap casting resin on it. Leaking gone and the print becomes stronger. Also gets rid of the layering.
I would have liked to have seen the results for TPU.
I printed a barrel plug out of TPU the other day, and it leaked as well, through the object. I didn’t try tweaking the settings to see if it could be improved. But the same plug printed in PETG didnt leak.
@@kaasmeester5903 you would have been using very different settings for TPU and PETG so you really can’t compare them like that. Your PETG settings are likely better tuned than your TPU settings.
I made several planter boxes of the prusa self watering design. They dont leak. It is definitely not an inherent PLA problem.
Saw the hotglue and knew they wouldn't stick 😅
I have a theory, that water in filament directly effects waterproofing.
The idea is the steam creates micro tubes as it expands and escapes from the liquid plastic as its extruded.
An easy way to test this would be to try a pellet extruder, the nature of pellet extruder should allow water vapor to evaporate out the top of the extruder screw.
You need to dry pellets too because they absorb moisture and it is unlikely that the pellet printing process would allow steam to escape anyway.
@@conorstewart2214 It must, because the pellets have large gaps of air, so if the screw doesn't allow the air to escape then it wouldn't work. Pushing that air through the nozzle would result in extremely bad prints.
@@givemeanameman1 Pellet extruders compress the pellets as they melt them, it is possible the pellets could be compressed and all the air removed before they heat enough to boil the water.
Machines that make filament out of pellets melt the pellets primarily though compression, not a heating element.
@@conorstewart2214 *SIGH*
Ok lets start with a question.
Why do bubbles in cooldrink rise up?
Its because gravity is PUSHING/pulling the water downwards. which forces the bubbles up and out of the container. even if you turn the container upside down so the opening is on the bottom, the air bubbles will still go upwards. Thats because the bottom of the liquid is under more pressure then the top.
The screw spinning causes the same effect, its pushing the plastic and compressing it, but compared to air/steam cannot be compressed, which forces the air/water vapor to escape in the other direction... The more screw surface area behind the plastic, the higher the pressure that plastic is under, so you have a gradient of force that is highest just at the nozzle/screw and lowest at the start of the hopper/screw. So the air/vapor moves against the direction the plastic is pushed.
Its actually more involved and complicated then this... but the gist is correct.
on the other hand, a filament extruder pretty much makes an airtight system where the air/vapor is forced through the nozzle.
Thanks
sooo 0.4mm thick with a 0.4 nozzle????? cause that would prolly be a crappy print with the wall barely touching..
What was that NITRO gallon at 9:04 ???? Nice video by the way, Thanks for the test
The close-up scared me!
Hey this one ended in my sub feed :)
can you do PLA but don't print it, try mold injection.
You need an injection moulding machine for that and moulds, which can be expensive.
Video just shows a lot of underextrusion on bottoms. Then most of the parts were almost sealed on bottom with hot-glue.
I would say this test has a few flaws. Good try though.
First
Please no more facecam, it only takes focus away of the main thing and ads nopthing of value to the video and it's core.
There is nothing wrong with the face cam, it doesn’t take away focus from anything.
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