Questions and comments are always welcome! Amazon links: ZoomSpout oil CA - amzn.to/3Nn1gJa US - amzn.to/3A9E3XY 3-in-1 electric motor oil CA - amzn.to/3bt8gHc US - amzn.to/3bnZoCF Honeywell HT-900 fan CA - amzn.to/3bGiTXu US - amzn.to/39XMgUH As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This is the best tutorial video about this subject! I can say it after trying several others which will tell you to remove this or that but not how to do it! This video is organized, clear directions, and good advices on what options are best, foe example which one is the best oil to use, if needed. Excellent video! Thank you, very much.
Thank you for posting this video. There was no way I was going to take apart the motor without this video. You know I broke the push nut a little and didn't panic thanks to you.
Thank you for this video! I have been using a similar Honeywell fan since 2002. Lately it’s been slowing down, recently stopping. I followed all the steps of this video and now my fan is as good as new. I appreciate your sharing this expertise!
Thanks so much for making this video. It was easy to follow with clear explanations. I had fun learning how to take apart my fan, and now it sounds much smoother
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a Honeywell Triple Tower Multi-Pivot Fan. I cleaned and oiled the top fan but it did not spin freely after reassembling. Found your video and saw the all important shaft tap. I tapped the shaft a couple of times, it seated properly and spun freely. Did likewise with the remaining fans and they too spun freely. Thank you again!
Just some tips for anyone else who might be trying this. I couldn't find a screwdriver that fit in the holes in the grill so I had to come up with an alternate solution. I had a few syringes lying around that I use for measuring and dispensing glues and vape juice. I found that if I used a 1ml syringe with a long 14 gauge blunt needle on it, it was just skinny enough to go through the holes in the grill and long enough to get the oil right into the front bearings, both sides. With a little fiddling I think I was also able to angle it behind the back bearings as well. It felt like I was able to get it into the felt area, but I couldn't see to confirm. I used sewing machine oil, which I have found to be great for things like this. You don't need much, but the difference was night and day. The fan started up at full speed as soon as I turned it on. It had previously struggled to start at all, now its blowing like brand new again.
I've had three of these fans. The first one, a street find, died after a year. The second one I bought, lasted two years and died. Found out it needed cleaning and lubing, but it was too late. The last one was also a find, worked four years, started having problems, but after watching this video I followed all the steps and now it works great again!
Happy to hear that! The unfortunate thing with many fans nowadays is that they come poorly oiled from the factory. It’s partially because of cost cutting and also a subtly method of planned obsolescence. Occasionally cleaning and oiling these fans drastically improve their lifespan!
@@TheSuperFanMan UPDATE: After a few hours the fan stopped. The fan blades still turned freely, so I took it all apart again, checked the wire connections, added a bit more oil (sewing machine oil) to the bearings and even added a bit of oil to the rotor and armature shields. Put it back together and it ran again. Then I read that the rotor and armature shouldn't have oil on them, so I took it apart again and wiped them clean. However, in cleaning the plastic coil shields separating the armature from the rotor, part of one of the four shields broke. The fans runs fine again. But is it safe to run? I'm guessing since only part of one of four shields is missing it should be ok, but could overheating and arcing result? If so, I'm guessing I should just toss the fan out.
Terrific!....so thorough and methodical; thanks so much for this video! 🤗...(and these little fans are fantastic as well; I have used mine everyday for 2 years straight without having done a disassembly cleaning yet and it still works like the 1st day I got it)
Thank you very much! Glad it helped! I absolutely agree. Honeywell did a great job with these fans. I’m not surprised that they’re the most popular fan on Amazon!
Thank you so much :3 I have a different brand of fan, but that's ok. There was a string of hair and dust caught around the motor. The noise was driving me nuts lmao
Just adding on to the thank yous! I have the 2013 version of this fan, and although the motor housing/components were slightly different I was still able to get it up and running again thanks to this video. Definitely took a while to clean since I'd never disassembled it in 10+ years but it works good as new. The second power level of the fan doesn't work now, however, so I'm thinking I pinched a wire in reassembly - but better than nothing. Thank you for saving another fan from the landfill!
No problem, and thank you for keeping another fan out of the landfill! It sounds like the second speed wire got disconnected somewhere (hopefully not severed). If you get a chance to take it apart again, check to make sure the end of the wire is pushed in all the way into the switch. These fans’ switches have sprung wire terminals that simply grip the wire when it’s pushed in. The second speed wire might have popped out when you had the fan apart. Cheers!
Thanks for your input! It's definitely possible something popped out since I had to maneuver the wires more than I would've liked to get access to everything. Is it a possible hazard if I don't fix that and keep running it or will it be okay til the next time I clean it? (Which will be much sooner than 10 years, but still a few months down the line probably.)
No problem at all! If it hasn’t blown the circuit breaker already, there’s a chance it’ll be fine for years to come, but… I would still recommend taking it apart to check what the situation is. If the wire did pop out of the switch, it would be exposed and live when the fan is powered on. It’s a plastic fan, so the likelihood of electrocution is basically zero, but it can’t hurt to check, just in case.
Very good video. Was about to throw the fan away but thought maybe I could clean and lubricate it and get it working properly again. Looking forward to trying as soon as I get a screwdriver long enough to go down into the holes to get the face off lol
Thx for sharing this useful video. I did clean my Honeywell ventilator today. I did not dissassemble the shaft!. After that I re-assembled the plastic housing again. I noticed some vibrstion. The screws were though very tight. I tried loosing up the screws halff a turn each and there was less vibration. My question to you is how tight / loose should I tighten up the screws from the housing? Thanks in advance!
You're welcome! Typically I tighten the screw until its resistance jumps up (indicating the screw is all the way in), and from there I give it another 1/8th or so of a turn more. Overtightening is rarely a good idea, especially if the screws go into plastic. It's possible a moving part such as the motor or blades was rubbing against the housing from overtightening.
You can remove the motor completely from the fan leaving only the cord. You need to remove the one wire nut and the other wire of the cord goes into the switch. You can insert a small flat head into the hole in the switch where the wire goes in and the wire will come out easily. It is safe to wash the fan housing if only the cord is left, just make sure everything is dry before you put it back together. One mistake I made: Do not try to force the bearing (it's really a bushing) off the front of the shaft. I tried to force it and the round element came out and it was very hard to put it back. I'm worried it might run with too much friction now either creating noise or overheating. Do not force the bushing off. Just oil it as it is and leave it be. Edit: So I ruined my fan... kinda. When I put it back together it was making a bad sound and speed was varying, sometimes not able to start from a stop without assistance. I opened it again and once again took the round element out of the front bushing. It had scratches on one side from trying to force it back in. I had bent all of the metal tabs up to make it go in easier. Anyway, I turned the element around so the scratches were facing in instead of out. Bent the metal tabs back down as best as I could. Put it back together and it runs much better. I think the shaft is supposed to spin while the round element stays still. I suspect the round element was spinning with the shaft the first time because it was held too loosely after I bent the metal tabs up to try to get it back in easier. I hope this thing has a thermal sensor to shut down if things get too hot. Moral of the story guys: Sand/file the shaft so the bushing can come off instead of trying to force it. You will ruin your fan.
When you're prying the push nut off the shaft you should try not to gouge the shaft because if you do you could damage the bearing when you slide the shaft in/out of the bearing housing. I gouged mine. To fix it I wrapped the other end of the shaft in cereal-box cardboard then put it into a drill and spun it with 1200-grit sandpaper wrapped around the damaged part of the other end. Does 1200 grit sound acceptable for the final sanding? I didn't touch the part the bearing contacts while the fan is running. NOTE WELL: I'm not trained in any kind of motor repair or metal working.
Absolutely! I mention it briefly at the 5:00 mark in the video. It’s pretty difficult for the push nut to not inflict any damage to the shaft, even if you’re extra careful. The method you used is probably the safest and best way to clean up the gouges. Glad you protected the shaft with the cereal box piece, and yes, I would say 1200 grit is right for the job. No need for a coarser grit as it would likely scratch more than smooth out and polish the shaft.
My dad took his Honey turbo fan apart to clean it. He put it all together, and it works great. However, he took the stand-off and put it back, but now it doesn't stay still . It keeps tilting backward .It no longer clicks into different positions.What should he do to get it to stay in one position?
The tilting mechanism on this fan consists of a circular metal plate with a row of holes that act as detents. A small metal ball and a spring fits into a hole behind the metal plate. Basically as the fan is tilted. The spring loaded ball clicks into the detents, which holds the fan head in position. Have you checked if the spring and ball were reinstalled? Without them, the fan head would swivel freely and face upwards due to the weight of the motor.
I’m assuming you’re referring to the protective plastic that surrounds the motor windings? Some breakage around the edge shouldn’t be a problem. However, if the entire plastic sleeve is broken (to the point where the motor windings have become loose or disturbed) then it may be a concern.
Next can you do one of these on your 1996 Super 12 inch desk fan Model 12KD? I’d like to see a disammbly and reassembly of that fan and also a bit of oiling. I think it’s a good idea do oil that fan anyway lol. Please and thank you
Could you elaborate a little bit? Are you currently trying to disassemble or assemble the fan? If you’re in the process of putting the fan back together, you might want to check that the flat spot on the motor shaft is aligned with the flat spot in the blade hub. That will allow the blades to sit further down on the motor shaft.
This was helpful in taking my Pelonis fan motor apart. Cleaning didn't really fix the issue though. The fan speed is too slow. Especially when heater is turned on high, the fan slows to very little, leaving the air too hot I fear without enough air flow.
How free is the motor shaft? With the blades on, the fan should coast down to a smooth stop when spun by hand. An abrupt stop means the bearings need to be oiled or aligned, as shown in the video. If the shaft spins freely, then it could just be the nature of the heater due to the way it was designed. Fan-forced heaters typically behave like that, where the fan motor slows down when the heating elements kick on because they draw a lot of current. Also all heaters have thermal safety switches inside that will cut off the power if they get too hot. So your heater’s behaviour could be normal. Hope this helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan I thought it spun OK. It seemed free to me, but this is the first time I've done this. I didn't add any oil because I don't have any (except a tube that came with Wahl clippers, so I wasn't sure that was adequate). The slowness is not a natural design of the fan because it previously ran faster and has seemed to decline over time. Before I took it apart and cleaned it, it would only start noisily then stop. Now, it does actually run, but much too slowly. I have another heater of this same model and it runs normally. Thanks for replying.
No problem! That definitely sounds like the motor needs to be oiled. I wouldn’t run the heater in that state. The clipper oil is a bit thin for motors, but it can serve as a temporary oil. A bottle of electric motor oil (either 3-in-1 blue bottle, ZoomSpout turbine oil, or other non-detergent oil that’s around SAE-20 in viscosity) is under $5 at most hardware stores. It also works great as general household oil so a bottle might be worth getting. It’s also cheaper than a new heater :)
@@TheSuperFanMan It sounds like it's worth taking apart again if I get the oil. No reason to junk it if there's a possible fix. I've got one that rattles badly too, so the oil may help that one as well. Appreciate the advice.
Yes I agree. The HT800 fans had heavier blades so the extra momentum gives them the longer spin down time. It’s not always a bad thing if a fan has a short spin down time. Even good motor bearings won’t coast for long if the blades are lightweight plastic and has a lot of pitch. I personally like the HT800 more, but only by a small margin. The 800 is built better and moves more air, but is very noisy. The 900 has decent build quality, not nearly as powerful but is a lot quieter. Surprisingly, I’ve found that the 900 fans have better balanced blades than the 800 fans. Besides the quality and power, I’d say the 900 outshines the 800.
@@TheSuperFanMan I am from the UK mine says HT-900 E . but the motor inside is not like your 900 its like a hybrid of your 800 and 900 . i mean the top metal strip is like your 900 but the bottom is like your 800 with the old fashioned copper winding thing . sorry i'm not a techy i dont know what to call it ? lol
Sounds like it has the shaded-pole type motor. They’re good motors as long as they’re kept clean and oiled from time to time. I think the UK HT900E is built very similarly to the North American HT900 besides a few small design differences.
Thank you!!! Would have never figured it out... But I give this fan -1 review cuz cleaning this is a bish!!! Also would need the small thin pen flat screw just to unscrew the the thing. Thankfully I had one!!!
No problem, glad it was helpful! Yes Honeywell could certainly have simplified a few things to make the fan a bit easier to clean, but believe it or not, this is actually among the easiest fans to clean! Some fans nowadays are purposely designed so you cannot open it. Talk about planned obsolescence!
The exact screwdriver I used was purchased locally at Canadian Tire, and it has been discontinued. But I've found that this Craftsman screwdriver set is a good alternative. Gifted it to my dad and it's a great set. amzn.to/3Acdi7E (it's an Amazon affiliate link, so I earn a small commission if you purchase through the link at no extra cost on your end)
Sounds like you’ll need a skinnier screwdriver. Some interchangeable-bit screwdrivers won’t work because they’re too wide, so I’d suggest getting a dedicated Phillips screwdriver.
Nice! A simple threaded nut holding the blades on is a much better design. Easy to remove for cleaning than the pesky push nuts on these Honeywell fans.
You should do a video about the "Air King 9146 6 Inch" fan, i just got one in the mail today and i think it is a really nice fan and they have a clear see through blade, witch you once said in a video that you like fans with clear blades. Anyways, just a recommendation for a video and a fan to the collection.
Thanks for the suggestion! I actually did some research on the 9146 last year because it caught my interest. Sadly it‘s mostly sold in the US and the cost to ship one here to Canada is too high for what the fan is worth. If I see one for a good price I’ll definitely get it though!
@@TheSuperFanMan Alright, cheers to more fans in the collection, can't wait to see when the 2021 collection video is made. And also keep up the entertaining videos!
Thank you! Yes the disassembly can be cumbersome on these fans, but believe it or not, these actually aren’t the worst fans to clean! Some manufacturers will employ hidden plastic tabs that will permanently clip parts of their fans together at the factory, and make it impossible for the users to disassemble without damaging their fans.
@@TheSuperFanMan That is crazy!!! Why create a fan that is impossible to clean!? I don't understand the logic behind it. And I just wanted to tell you thank you so much for taking the time to post this video! It was everything I needed to get the job done! :D
You’re very welcome! It’s all planned obsolescence by the manufacturer to increase revenue. Making fans that are difficult to clean means people will tend to throw out their old fans and just buy new ones to avoid the hassle.
i was taking apart the exact same fan but for some reason the front bearing cant be removed and there is no rust or any spots on the shaft that is preventing the front bearing to come off i did touch the end of the shaft and it felt like it was smooth like normal but the front bearing cant come off and it is happing where the flat part is on the shaft
It's due to a tiny burr on the flat spot on the shaft from the manufacturing process. Even though it feels smooth, there is some material sticking out that's interefering with the bearing housing removal. I would take some 400-600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges of the flat spot to knock down the burr. The bearing should slide right off!
I should have watched this video before I started doing this to my fan. I had to drill out that push nut, and by mistake I drilled the shaft 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
All good, I’ve made plenty of mistakes too while working on fans! As long as the motor shaft isn’t heavily compromised, it shouldn’t affect the functionality of the fan.
@@TheSuperFanMan thanks. Fun fact: I got two of these fans, one was gifted to me like 15 years ago and it was already used and then about 5 years ago I bought I new on, and the old one blows way more air than the newer one. The newer one is the one that I am working on because it wasn’t turning on, because of all the hair that it had trapped on the shaft. I’ll be surprised if it works after I try to reassemble it. The old fan I have never had to disassemble it to clean it, I only clean it by using a water hose, and I’ve never had a problem with it, I haven’t even oiled it, but now I will. I just went to Lowes today and picked up a bottle of that 3-in-one motor oil.
It would depend on where the culprit is. Try taking the grille off first and see if the blades are hitting anything. If the blades are stiff to turn, tapping the blade hub from various angles with the back of the screwdriver to realign the motor bearings. Feel free to let me know if that doesn’t fix it, and I can try to help more.
It’s likely that the motor’s thermal fuse blew. Most fan motors have a one-time fuse that will blow when it gets too hot, often due to heavy dust accumulation or excessive impedance. Are the blades hard to spin by hand? Is there a faint hum coming from the motor when it’s switched on? If no to both questions, then it’s probably the motor fuse. You can also check the continuity between the two plug prongs when you set the switch to any of the speed positions. If the multimeter shows no continuity, the fan circuit is open, likely the fuse. Unfortunately if the fuse is the culprit, there isn’t an easy fix for that other than getting a new fan. If you’re very mechanically inclined, there are some videos on UA-cam made by fellow fan collectors that show how to replace the motor fuse, though it’s a very tedious and delicate task. Hope this helps!
Yes it's certainly possible to revive it, though it will depend on what part of the fan failed. If the motor bearings are simply seized up, oiling will free them up. An easy way to test this is to plug the fan in and turn it to any speed. If the bearings are simply seized, you will hear a faint buzzing sound from the motor. However, if there is no buzz, it means there is an electrical problem, such as a blown thermal fuse inside of the motor, a bad switch, or poor wire connections somewhere. These are typically not repairable. Hope it helps!
No, never use WD-40 with the intention of lubricating motor bearings! It’s not formulated for that purpose and will dry out quickly, which will damage the bearings after some time. Aside from the two oils I showed, technically any non-detergent, 20-30 weight oil is good to use, though I haven’t tried any so I can’t make any specific recommendations in that regard. Hope it helps!
Best way to align the bearings is to slightly loosen the mounting screws & power up the fan--it will self align. Then tighten the mounting screws. No need to smack the rotor shaft!
That may work from time to time, but it’s not as effective as the tapping method, and I know from experience. Tightening the bearing housing screws after letting it self align will throw it out of alignment again. Tapping the shaft doesn’t harm the motor in any way, unless you’re using a hammer of course lol.
Not sure whats up with my fan. It wont spin whatsoever, like its not getting power. I checked the fuse, even tried an alternate fuse and that wasn't the issue. I took out the rotor and oiled the bearings, it spins nice and freely. So I cant figure it out.
Sounds like the motor’s internal thermal fuse blew due to overheating. Unlike the fuse in the plug, the thermal fuse can’t easily be replaced unfortunately.
@@TheSuperFanMan Bummer. I think this happened to me too. I realized that the fan hadn't been spinning for a few days and then unplugged it to fix later. I disassembled and got it spinning, but no dice. The fuse in the plug showed about 60Ohm on my multimeter, so it didn't look blown. I probably should have tried to oil it when it was having trouble spinning initially.
Watch out for this fan it caused an electrical fault with my TV where it was using the same duel socket as the TV. Power Surge?? Has anyone else experienced similar issues?
@@TheSuperFanMan I also changed my channel name to my regular name cause I kinda want people to know who I am and and look like. Hopefully you like it lol
It’s definitely a challenge to get that piece off, especially without breaking it. If you have a small flathead screwdriver, push the tip into the gaps in the push nut and pry the little tabs outwards. The goal is to loosen the grip that the tabs have on the motor shaft. You might end up breaking the nut when you remove it, but the blades can later be secured with a blob of hot glue if necessary.
someone has probably mentioned this : at about 6:06 my 'rear bearing assembly' does NOT just pop off. theres a red blue and grey wire that are jammed in between the plastic and metal parts of the rear assembly. I'm hesitant to use more force because it may destroy a wire AND because i have to put this stuff back together at some point...beware
It’s likely just a sample variation from inconsistent manufacturing (typical nowadays with overseas products). Mine came off with no issues, and the wires weren’t pinched anywhere. If it’s badly jammed in there to a point where it’s difficult to disassemble, it’s concerning from a longevity standpoint because the pressure could wear through the wire insulation and create an electrical problem down the road. It probably would be a good idea to leave it alone if you feel that the disassembly may be problematic. If you’re able to pull the motor out far enough to reach the two screws holding the plastic end cap to the rear bearing housing, I would undo them to see if the wires can be freed. Hope it helps! Feel free to ask me any questions that come up!
@@TheSuperFanMan thanks for the advice!! I eventually was able to free it. I made sure to get a view of it from all angles and then try to move the wires one at a time to see how stuck they were. I was also able to bend the plastic surrounding it a bit to see if there was some wiggle room (and there was). Thanks for the great video!! especially the part where you explain reassembly!! (many videos just say to do it in the reverse order). o
None of the screwdrivers I own fits, and I have several. Wish they didn't have to make accessing the screws so difficult. First and last Honeywell product I ever purchase.
Do your screwdrivers have interchangeable bits by chance? Usually those are too wide to reach the screws. A dedicated phillips head screwdriver is ideal for reaching them. I completely understand your frustration though.
I believe a T10 Torx screwdriver will do the job. I just checked the screws on an older Honeywell I have, and T10 was the correct size. I think the newer fans also share the same screws. Hope it helps!
Yeah I noticed that too. The HT-900 fans have smaller and lighter blades than the HT-800 fans, so there’s less momentum to keep them spinning when the fan is switched off.
That certainly happens. Which screws aren’t budging? Usually the screws holding the grilles together and the 2 screws holding the motor to the back housing come out easily, as they’re threaded into plastic. The 2 screws holding the bearing assembly together can be tricky sometimes since those go into metal. If you’re able to remove the screws holding the motor to the back housing, try spraying a small amount of WD-40 around the screws on the rear side of the motor where the screws thread in. A few hours of wait time should allow the WD-40 is soak in, then you can try unscrewing them again.
Odd, perhaps it’s a recent model... That’s pretty disappointing to hear, especially because the ability to disassemble these Honeywell fans was one of the reasons why they were good. Are the screws not hidden or deeply recessed?
Damn I wanted to wash the entire casing of it but i cant get to remove the cord. The dust on it is insane and i have had it for a month. Yes I clean my house and vaccum every couple days. It's mostly cause of the fires we just got and the smog.
The cord can be removed, though it’s a bit tricky. After the motor & switch are removed, the plastic strain relief piece can be pushed out of the fan from the inside. A pair of pliers will help with this process. I removed the cord on this fan using the same technique (at 9:35 in the video): ua-cam.com/video/ydam2wCd-e8/v-deo.html But even if you can’t remove the cord itself, you can place a small ziplock bag over the plug and another one over the two exposed strands on the inside of the housing, tighten the openings of the bags with rubber bands, and rinse the whole housing with water. Just don’t submerge it in water. Allow the housing to fully dry before reassembling. For regular maintenance and dusting, compressed air does wonders, whether it’s from a canned air duster or an air compressor. Hope it helps!
The Honeywell is definitely quieter than a similar size Vornado, mainly because the Honeywell doesn’t run nearly as fast. Vornado fans move more air though, but of course at the cost of some noise.
The PSC motor is generally better. More efficient and cooler running. The HT-900 fans with PSC motors draw less than half the current the shaded-pole HT-900 fans draw, without compromising performance.
ECMs (BLDC) are more efficient than PSC motors, but can be less reliable because of the need for electronic components. Funny that you mentioned ECMs, because I just posted a video on AC vs BLDC ceiling fans lol.
T10 should be the right bit, based on the ones I've worked on. I've noticed that some older versions have Torx bits with a pin sticking out of the center. With those, you can take a small flathead screwdriver and break off the pin before using a regular Torx bit.
@@TheSuperFanMan Thx for the follow up. I have the older one & can now confirm it has two torx 15 security screws (one at 3 o'clock & one at 9 o'clock). I bought a full size torx "security" screwdriver set as a dedicated driver is the only thing thin & long enough to get in there without breaking or stripping something.
Anyone have issues snapping the front grille back on? With the holes and screws in place, the grille won’t stay on and is loose. So frustrating. This fan is so poorly made.
I’ve found that the recently made fans are trickier to deal with, particularly the grille. Did your grille snap into place so the seam between the front and back grilles are closed? There is a small notch at the bottom of the grille that needs to be lined up with the one on the fan. The screws should hold it in place.. but if they don’t, the screw holes might be stripped out. Try readjusting the grille and feel free to let me know if you have other questions!
Around 600 grit is good for sanding down any burrs. I usually like to go over the spot with 1000 and 2000 grit afterwards to give it a polished finish but that’s purely cosmetic.
It sounds like the stator was reinstalled backwards. The metal block component of the motor with the copper windings (called the stator) needs to be oriented with the wires exiting from the back side. You might have put it in backwards when you reassembled it. Simply disassemble the motor as I did in the video (remove the rotor too), flip the stator around, reinstall the rotor and put the fan back together. It should then run in the correct direction. Hope it helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan I have it all put in right I watched a couple videos on how to fix it including yours and the wires all line up correctly the black and white wires coming out back are more to the left the the front ones are more to the right
They certainly do come out with regular screwdrivers, as I did in the video. These fans use either Phillips or Torx screws. Phillips #2 and Torx #10 or #15 are the correct bit sizes for the screws used on this fan.
No problem. Are you using an interchangeable-bit screwdriver? Most of those will not be able to reach the recessed screws due to the larger shaft. You may need a dedicated Phillips/Torx screwdriver.
@@TheSuperFanMan yes using interchangeable def not working. Tried a very thin one used for small electronics but that wasn’t strong enough. Will try regular philips. Thxs
Well I tired fixing mine and it all seemed good until it was night and I turned it on before I went to bed. I woke up to my grandpa bursting into flames after putting his nutsack in it. So it’s broken again. Regardless good video.
The low quality bearings developed some play from the excessive motor heat. Oil can’t fix worn bearings unfortunately. Most HT-900 fans seem to have relatively short spindown times compared to the HT-800 fans, as I wrote before, due to the lighter blades.
They sure are! Have you tried using a dedicated Phillips head screwdriver? I find that most interchangeable-bit screwdrivers are too wide to reach the recessed screws.
I also ran into the same issue when I first attempted disassembling it years prior. The best way is to buy a dedicated Phillips (and Torx if applicable) screwdriver. Most interchangeable-bit screwdrivers tend to be too wide to fit.
Questions and comments are always welcome!
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How are we pulling the spining thing up cuz mine just down and it’s block On the motor
@@X9pharel I’m not understanding what you mean. Can you elaborate?
I love love love that this exists. This fan is maybe $20 but I love being able to keep it going and not throw it away. Thank you so much!
You’re very welcome! I like that mindset; I’m also the type of person who’d rather maintain and keep one item than treat it as a disposable!
This is the best tutorial video about this subject! I can say it after trying several others which will tell you to remove this or that but not how to do it! This video is organized, clear directions, and good advices on what options are best, foe example which one is the best oil to use, if needed. Excellent video! Thank you, very much.
Happy to hear you found this video helpful!
Thank you for posting this video. There was no way I was going to take apart the motor without this video. You know I broke the push nut a little and didn't panic thanks to you.
No problem! Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video! I have been using a similar Honeywell fan since 2002. Lately it’s been slowing down, recently stopping. I followed all the steps of this video and now my fan is as good as new. I appreciate your sharing this expertise!
You're very welcome! Glad it helped!
Thanks so much for making this video. It was easy to follow with clear explanations. I had fun learning how to take apart my fan, and now it sounds much smoother
Awesome, I’m glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a Honeywell Triple Tower Multi-Pivot Fan. I cleaned and oiled the top fan but it did not spin freely after reassembling. Found your video and saw the all important shaft tap. I tapped the shaft a couple of times, it seated properly and spun freely. Did likewise with the remaining fans and they too spun freely. Thank you again!
No problem! Happy to hear that this video was helpful!
Just some tips for anyone else who might be trying this. I couldn't find a screwdriver that fit in the holes in the grill so I had to come up with an alternate solution. I had a few syringes lying around that I use for measuring and dispensing glues and vape juice. I found that if I used a 1ml syringe with a long 14 gauge blunt needle on it, it was just skinny enough to go through the holes in the grill and long enough to get the oil right into the front bearings, both sides. With a little fiddling I think I was also able to angle it behind the back bearings as well. It felt like I was able to get it into the felt area, but I couldn't see to confirm. I used sewing machine oil, which I have found to be great for things like this. You don't need much, but the difference was night and day. The fan started up at full speed as soon as I turned it on. It had previously struggled to start at all, now its blowing like brand new again.
You saved me. 💕 My hair gets EVERYWHERE and of course a lot of strays got caught in the fan. You made this so easy on me.
Glad the video helped! Stay cool :)
I've had three of these fans. The first one, a street find, died after a year. The second one I bought, lasted two years and died. Found out it needed cleaning and lubing, but it was too late. The last one was also a find, worked four years, started having problems, but after watching this video I followed all the steps and now it works great again!
Happy to hear that! The unfortunate thing with many fans nowadays is that they come poorly oiled from the factory. It’s partially because of cost cutting and also a subtly method of planned obsolescence. Occasionally cleaning and oiling these fans drastically improve their lifespan!
@@TheSuperFanMan UPDATE: After a few hours the fan stopped. The fan blades still turned freely, so I took it all apart again, checked the wire connections, added a bit more oil (sewing machine oil) to the bearings and even added a bit of oil to the rotor and armature shields. Put it back together and it ran again. Then I read that the rotor and armature shouldn't have oil on them, so I took it apart again and wiped them clean. However, in cleaning the plastic coil shields separating the armature from the rotor, part of one of the four shields broke. The fans runs fine again. But is it safe to run? I'm guessing since only part of one of four shields is missing it should be ok, but could overheating and arcing result? If so, I'm guessing I should just toss the fan out.
Terrific!....so thorough and methodical; thanks so much for this video! 🤗...(and these little fans are fantastic as well; I have used mine everyday for 2 years straight without having done a disassembly cleaning yet and it still works like the 1st day I got it)
Thank you very much! Glad it helped! I absolutely agree. Honeywell did a great job with these fans. I’m not surprised that they’re the most popular fan on Amazon!
Awesome job bro on disassembling a Honeywell HT900 for cleaning and oiling a PSC motor in order to last longer and have a long spin down time
Thanks!
素晴らしいです！これをきれいにする為にとても役に立つビデオであり、
物を大切にしてできるだけ長く使いごみを減らせれば環境の為にもなりますね！！
Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful. I agree, it's amazing how long things will last if you take good care of them!
Thank you so much :3 I have a different brand of fan, but that's ok. There was a string of hair and dust caught around the motor. The noise was driving me nuts lmao
No problem! Glad it helped!
Just adding on to the thank yous! I have the 2013 version of this fan, and although the motor housing/components were slightly different I was still able to get it up and running again thanks to this video.
Definitely took a while to clean since I'd never disassembled it in 10+ years but it works good as new. The second power level of the fan doesn't work now, however, so I'm thinking I pinched a wire in reassembly - but better than nothing.
Thank you for saving another fan from the landfill!
No problem, and thank you for keeping another fan out of the landfill!
It sounds like the second speed wire got disconnected somewhere (hopefully not severed). If you get a chance to take it apart again, check to make sure the end of the wire is pushed in all the way into the switch. These fans’ switches have sprung wire terminals that simply grip the wire when it’s pushed in. The second speed wire might have popped out when you had the fan apart.
Cheers!
Thanks for your input! It's definitely possible something popped out since I had to maneuver the wires more than I would've liked to get access to everything.
Is it a possible hazard if I don't fix that and keep running it or will it be okay til the next time I clean it? (Which will be much sooner than 10 years, but still a few months down the line probably.)
No problem at all! If it hasn’t blown the circuit breaker already, there’s a chance it’ll be fine for years to come, but… I would still recommend taking it apart to check what the situation is. If the wire did pop out of the switch, it would be exposed and live when the fan is powered on. It’s a plastic fan, so the likelihood of electrocution is basically zero, but it can’t hurt to check, just in case.
Thank you💛💛💛💛 Just got done cleaning my fan and it works sooooooooo much better.
You’re welcome! Glad it helped!
Thank you so much, I couldn’t have done it without you. 👍
You’re very welcome! I’m glad it helped!
Took about 2 hours, but I did it! 💪
Glad it worked out! If there’s a will, there’s a way!
Very good video. Was about to throw the fan away but thought maybe I could clean and lubricate it and get it working properly again. Looking forward to trying as soon as I get a screwdriver long enough to go down into the holes to get the face off lol
Thank you! Great decision to revive your current fan. It’s surprising how much you can extend a fan’s lifespan just with some maintenance!
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! 💓
You’re welcome! Stay cool!
Thanks! this video helped bring my fan back to life! I would have hated to throw it away.
No problem! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thx for sharing this useful video. I did clean my Honeywell ventilator today. I did not dissassemble the shaft!. After that I re-assembled the plastic housing again. I noticed some vibrstion. The screws were though very tight. I tried loosing up the screws halff a turn each and there was less vibration. My question to you is how tight / loose should I tighten up the screws from the housing? Thanks in advance!
You're welcome! Typically I tighten the screw until its resistance jumps up (indicating the screw is all the way in), and from there I give it another 1/8th or so of a turn more. Overtightening is rarely a good idea, especially if the screws go into plastic. It's possible a moving part such as the motor or blades was rubbing against the housing from overtightening.
You can remove the motor completely from the fan leaving only the cord. You need to remove the one wire nut and the other wire of the cord goes into the switch. You can insert a small flat head into the hole in the switch where the wire goes in and the wire will come out easily. It is safe to wash the fan housing if only the cord is left, just make sure everything is dry before you put it back together. One mistake I made: Do not try to force the bearing (it's really a bushing) off the front of the shaft. I tried to force it and the round element came out and it was very hard to put it back. I'm worried it might run with too much friction now either creating noise or overheating. Do not force the bushing off. Just oil it as it is and leave it be.
Edit: So I ruined my fan... kinda. When I put it back together it was making a bad sound and speed was varying, sometimes not able to start from a stop without assistance. I opened it again and once again took the round element out of the front bushing. It had scratches on one side from trying to force it back in. I had bent all of the metal tabs up to make it go in easier. Anyway, I turned the element around so the scratches were facing in instead of out. Bent the metal tabs back down as best as I could. Put it back together and it runs much better. I think the shaft is supposed to spin while the round element stays still. I suspect the round element was spinning with the shaft the first time because it was held too loosely after I bent the metal tabs up to try to get it back in easier. I hope this thing has a thermal sensor to shut down if things get too hot.
Moral of the story guys: Sand/file the shaft so the bushing can come off instead of trying to force it. You will ruin your fan.
When you're prying the push nut off the shaft you should try not to gouge the shaft because if you do you could damage the bearing when you slide the shaft in/out of the bearing housing.
I gouged mine. To fix it I wrapped the other end of the shaft in cereal-box cardboard then put it into a drill and spun it with 1200-grit sandpaper wrapped around the damaged part of the other end.
Does 1200 grit sound acceptable for the final sanding? I didn't touch the part the bearing contacts while the fan is running.
NOTE WELL: I'm not trained in any kind of motor repair or metal working.
Absolutely! I mention it briefly at the 5:00 mark in the video. It’s pretty difficult for the push nut to not inflict any damage to the shaft, even if you’re extra careful. The method you used is probably the safest and best way to clean up the gouges. Glad you protected the shaft with the cereal box piece, and yes, I would say 1200 grit is right for the job. No need for a coarser grit as it would likely scratch more than smooth out and polish the shaft.
My dad took his Honey turbo fan apart to clean it. He put it all together, and it works great. However, he took the stand-off and put it back, but now it doesn't stay still . It keeps tilting backward .It no longer clicks into different positions.What should he do to get it to stay in one position?
The tilting mechanism on this fan consists of a circular metal plate with a row of holes that act as detents. A small metal ball and a spring fits into a hole behind the metal plate. Basically as the fan is tilted. The spring loaded ball clicks into the detents, which holds the fan head in position.
Have you checked if the spring and ball were reinstalled? Without them, the fan head would swivel freely and face upwards due to the weight of the motor.
This was so helpful!
Glad to hear that!!
Thank you for this, I can't wait to deep clean the hell outta mine 💃🏽
No problem! :)
Just what I needed. Thanks
No problem! Glad it helped!
Some of those tabs near the copper broke, still safe to use you think?
I’m assuming you’re referring to the protective plastic that surrounds the motor windings? Some breakage around the edge shouldn’t be a problem. However, if the entire plastic sleeve is broken (to the point where the motor windings have become loose or disturbed) then it may be a concern.
Just in case, anyone needs this information. The Honeywell HT-904 needs a Philips #1 screwdriver to remove the face plate.
VERY helpful! Thank you so much!
No problem! I'm glad it was helpful!
Cool I have one of these from around 2017 stored away
Nice! I think this one is from 2017 too. I mistakenly said 2019 in this video but remembered that there is a date code on the motor that reads 2017.
Thanks a lot man helped me tremendously
No problem, I’m glad it helped! Stay cool!
I have the big one and I did the same thing and wowwww.... I was just gonna throw it away and replace it.
I like that spirit! It’s amazing how much longer fans will last just from regular maintenance!
Next can you do one of these on your 1996 Super 12 inch desk fan Model 12KD? I’d like to see a disammbly and reassembly of that fan and also a bit of oiling. I think it’s a good idea do oil that fan anyway lol. Please and thank you
Sure I can do that. These disassembly videos take longer to make than most videos so it might be a minute before I can get to it.
I have a white fan it looks like yours . But mine has a lot of space between the motor and the fan blade. How can I fix it
Could you elaborate a little bit? Are you currently trying to disassemble or assemble the fan? If you’re in the process of putting the fan back together, you might want to check that the flat spot on the motor shaft is aligned with the flat spot in the blade hub. That will allow the blades to sit further down on the motor shaft.
This was helpful in taking my Pelonis fan motor apart. Cleaning didn't really fix the issue though. The fan speed is too slow. Especially when heater is turned on high, the fan slows to very little, leaving the air too hot I fear without enough air flow.
How free is the motor shaft? With the blades on, the fan should coast down to a smooth stop when spun by hand. An abrupt stop means the bearings need to be oiled or aligned, as shown in the video.
If the shaft spins freely, then it could just be the nature of the heater due to the way it was designed. Fan-forced heaters typically behave like that, where the fan motor slows down when the heating elements kick on because they draw a lot of current.
Also all heaters have thermal safety switches inside that will cut off the power if they get too hot. So your heater’s behaviour could be normal. Hope this helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan I thought it spun OK. It seemed free to me, but this is the first time I've done this. I didn't add any oil because I don't have any (except a tube that came with Wahl clippers, so I wasn't sure that was adequate). The slowness is not a natural design of the fan because it previously ran faster and has seemed to decline over time. Before I took it apart and cleaned it, it would only start noisily then stop. Now, it does actually run, but much too slowly. I have another heater of this same model and it runs normally. Thanks for replying.
No problem! That definitely sounds like the motor needs to be oiled. I wouldn’t run the heater in that state. The clipper oil is a bit thin for motors, but it can serve as a temporary oil. A bottle of electric motor oil (either 3-in-1 blue bottle, ZoomSpout turbine oil, or other non-detergent oil that’s around SAE-20 in viscosity) is under $5 at most hardware stores. It also works great as general household oil so a bottle might be worth getting. It’s also cheaper than a new heater :)
@@TheSuperFanMan It sounds like it's worth taking apart again if I get the oil. No reason to junk it if there's a possible fix. I've got one that rattles badly too, so the oil may help that one as well. Appreciate the advice.
I see the spin down time is not as good as the 800 ? Do you agree ? also which model do you prefer the 800 or the newer 900 ?
Yes I agree. The HT800 fans had heavier blades so the extra momentum gives them the longer spin down time. It’s not always a bad thing if a fan has a short spin down time. Even good motor bearings won’t coast for long if the blades are lightweight plastic and has a lot of pitch. I personally like the HT800 more, but only by a small margin. The 800 is built better and moves more air, but is very noisy. The 900 has decent build quality, not nearly as powerful but is a lot quieter. Surprisingly, I’ve found that the 900 fans have better balanced blades than the 800 fans. Besides the quality and power, I’d say the 900 outshines the 800.
@@TheSuperFanMan I am from the UK mine says HT-900 E . but the motor inside is not like your 900 its like a hybrid of your 800 and 900 . i mean the top metal strip is like your 900 but the bottom is like your 800 with the old fashioned copper winding thing . sorry i'm not a techy i dont know what to call it ? lol
Sounds like it has the shaded-pole type motor. They’re good motors as long as they’re kept clean and oiled from time to time. I think the UK HT900E is built very similarly to the North American HT900 besides a few small design differences.
@@TheSuperFanMan yes it has the same shell and stand like your 900 and also the same smaller blade.
Which motor (type or model name) do you recommend for a like that small size fan?
A shaded-pole, c-frame type motor is usually a good choice for small fans. They’re inexpensive and have lots of options for size & power.
ThE HPF820 blows a significantly more air and better fan blade designs. And more powerful copper motor.
I believe that’s a pretty recent model. I haven’t seen many stores sell it, but the blades do look better optimized for performance.
Thank you!!! Would have never figured it out... But I give this fan -1 review cuz cleaning this is a bish!!! Also would need the small thin pen flat screw just to unscrew the the thing. Thankfully I had one!!!
No problem, glad it was helpful! Yes Honeywell could certainly have simplified a few things to make the fan a bit easier to clean, but believe it or not, this is actually among the easiest fans to clean! Some fans nowadays are purposely designed so you cannot open it. Talk about planned obsolescence!
Can you please share the link of screw drivers you used
The exact screwdriver I used was purchased locally at Canadian Tire, and it has been discontinued.
But I've found that this Craftsman screwdriver set is a good alternative. Gifted it to my dad and it's a great set. amzn.to/3Acdi7E
(it's an Amazon affiliate link, so I earn a small commission if you purchase through the link at no extra cost on your end)
None of my skinny phillips head screwdrivers fit, what do you recommend?
Sounds like you’ll need a skinnier screwdriver. Some interchangeable-bit screwdrivers won’t work because they’re too wide, so I’d suggest getting a dedicated Phillips screwdriver.
Thank you!😊
No problem! :)
Thank you so much!!!
No problem!
I have never taken the blades off my ansio turbo fan before. But it is built just like the honeywell’s but with a shaded pole motor i think
It sounds like a pretty common design for tabletop small air circulators. Are the blades held on the same way as these Honeywells?
@@TheSuperFanMan I don’t know. I think they are held on with a nut but i will need to check
Nice! A simple threaded nut holding the blades on is a much better design. Easy to remove for cleaning than the pesky push nuts on these Honeywell fans.
You should do a video about the "Air King 9146 6 Inch" fan, i just got one in the mail today and i think it is a really nice fan and they have a clear see through blade, witch you once said in a video that you like fans with clear blades. Anyways, just a recommendation for a video and a fan to the collection.
Thanks for the suggestion! I actually did some research on the 9146 last year because it caught my interest. Sadly it‘s mostly sold in the US and the cost to ship one here to Canada is too high for what the fan is worth. If I see one for a good price I’ll definitely get it though!
@@TheSuperFanMan Alright, cheers to more fans in the collection, can't wait to see when the 2021 collection video is made. And also keep up the entertaining videos!
Much appreciated!!
I love this video, and I hate Honeywell for making their fans so overly complicated to clean. I will never buy one of their fans again
Thank you! Yes the disassembly can be cumbersome on these fans, but believe it or not, these actually aren’t the worst fans to clean! Some manufacturers will employ hidden plastic tabs that will permanently clip parts of their fans together at the factory, and make it impossible for the users to disassemble without damaging their fans.
@@TheSuperFanMan
That is crazy!!! Why create a fan that is impossible to clean!? I don't understand the logic behind it.
And I just wanted to tell you thank you so much for taking the time to post this video! It was everything I needed to get the job done! :D
You’re very welcome! It’s all planned obsolescence by the manufacturer to increase revenue. Making fans that are difficult to clean means people will tend to throw out their old fans and just buy new ones to avoid the hassle.
i was taking apart the exact same fan but for some reason the front bearing cant be removed and there is no rust or any spots on the shaft that is preventing the front bearing to come off i did touch the end of the shaft and it felt like it was smooth like normal but the front bearing cant come off and it is happing where the flat part is on the shaft
It's due to a tiny burr on the flat spot on the shaft from the manufacturing process. Even though it feels smooth, there is some material sticking out that's interefering with the bearing housing removal. I would take some 400-600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges of the flat spot to knock down the burr. The bearing should slide right off!
@@TheSuperFanMan thank you so much
I should have watched this video before I started doing this to my fan. I had to drill out that push nut, and by mistake I drilled the shaft 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
All good, I’ve made plenty of mistakes too while working on fans! As long as the motor shaft isn’t heavily compromised, it shouldn’t affect the functionality of the fan.
@@TheSuperFanMan thanks. Fun fact: I got two of these fans, one was gifted to me like 15 years ago and it was already used and then about 5 years ago I bought I new on, and the old one blows way more air than the newer one. The newer one is the one that I am working on because it wasn’t turning on, because of all the hair that it had trapped on the shaft. I’ll be surprised if it works after I try to reassemble it. The old fan I have never had to disassemble it to clean it, I only clean it by using a water hose, and I’ve never had a problem with it, I haven’t even oiled it, but now I will. I just went to Lowes today and picked up a bottle of that 3-in-one motor oil.
Do you know if Honeywell 16" pedestal fans have a start/run capacitor?
Yes they do. Nearly all modern pedestal fans have permanent split capacitor motors, with the exception of DC motor models.
Is there anything we can do when it won't start as a result of dropping it ? When I turn it on, a humming sound comes but blades won't run.
It would depend on where the culprit is. Try taking the grille off first and see if the blades are hitting anything. If the blades are stiff to turn, tapping the blade hub from various angles with the back of the screwdriver to realign the motor bearings.
Feel free to let me know if that doesn’t fix it, and I can try to help more.
@@TheSuperFanMan I cannot see any obvious damage, the blades are free to move.
Hm interesting, I’m not sure what the problem could be. If you want to post a video showing the problem, I can try to offer additional advice.
My X power fan stopped working even after I cleaned the dust out of it, what do you suggest?
It’s likely that the motor’s thermal fuse blew. Most fan motors have a one-time fuse that will blow when it gets too hot, often due to heavy dust accumulation or excessive impedance. Are the blades hard to spin by hand? Is there a faint hum coming from the motor when it’s switched on? If no to both questions, then it’s probably the motor fuse. You can also check the continuity between the two plug prongs when you set the switch to any of the speed positions. If the multimeter shows no continuity, the fan circuit is open, likely the fuse. Unfortunately if the fuse is the culprit, there isn’t an easy fix for that other than getting a new fan. If you’re very mechanically inclined, there are some videos on UA-cam made by fellow fan collectors that show how to replace the motor fuse, though it’s a very tedious and delicate task. Hope this helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan Thank you brother. This explanation was well explained.
No problem!
Thanks 😊
No problem! Stay cool! :)
Great job, thank you.
Glad it helped! :)
It stopped working if I clean an oil might it work again?
Yes it's certainly possible to revive it, though it will depend on what part of the fan failed.
If the motor bearings are simply seized up, oiling will free them up. An easy way to test this is to plug the fan in and turn it to any speed. If the bearings are simply seized, you will hear a faint buzzing sound from the motor.
However, if there is no buzz, it means there is an electrical problem, such as a blown thermal fuse inside of the motor, a bad switch, or poor wire connections somewhere. These are typically not repairable.
Hope it helps!
Amazing tutoria 🙏🤍🕊
Thank you! :)
*tutorial 🤗
Can you use WD40 instead of those 2 oils you showed?
No, never use WD-40 with the intention of lubricating motor bearings! It’s not formulated for that purpose and will dry out quickly, which will damage the bearings after some time. Aside from the two oils I showed, technically any non-detergent, 20-30 weight oil is good to use, though I haven’t tried any so I can’t make any specific recommendations in that regard. Hope it helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan Hey, definitely does help, thanks for the assistance and the fast reply, man, you really are super 👃
No problem! Glad I could help!
Thank-you very much
You’re very welcome! :)
Best way to align the bearings is to slightly loosen the mounting screws & power up the fan--it will self align. Then tighten the mounting screws. No need to smack the rotor shaft!
That may work from time to time, but it’s not as effective as the tapping method, and I know from experience. Tightening the bearing housing screws after letting it self align will throw it out of alignment again. Tapping the shaft doesn’t harm the motor in any way, unless you’re using a hammer of course lol.
Not sure whats up with my fan. It wont spin whatsoever, like its not getting power. I checked the fuse, even tried an alternate fuse and that wasn't the issue. I took out the rotor and oiled the bearings, it spins nice and freely. So I cant figure it out.
Sounds like the motor’s internal thermal fuse blew due to overheating. Unlike the fuse in the plug, the thermal fuse can’t easily be replaced unfortunately.
@@TheSuperFanMan Bummer. I think this happened to me too. I realized that the fan hadn't been spinning for a few days and then unplugged it to fix later. I disassembled and got it spinning, but no dice. The fuse in the plug showed about 60Ohm on my multimeter, so it didn't look blown. I probably should have tried to oil it when it was having trouble spinning initially.
Watch out for this fan it caused an electrical fault with my TV where it was using the same duel socket as the TV. Power Surge??
Has anyone else experienced similar issues?
Nice one!
Thanks Matt!
@@TheSuperFanMan I also changed my channel name to my regular name cause I kinda want people to know who I am and and look like. Hopefully you like it lol
I noticed!
I can NOT get that center piece to come off to remove the blades. I have fought with it for over half an hour.
It’s definitely a challenge to get that piece off, especially without breaking it. If you have a small flathead screwdriver, push the tip into the gaps in the push nut and pry the little tabs outwards. The goal is to loosen the grip that the tabs have on the motor shaft. You might end up breaking the nut when you remove it, but the blades can later be secured with a blob of hot glue if necessary.
someone has probably mentioned this : at about 6:06 my 'rear bearing assembly' does NOT just pop off. theres a red blue and grey wire that are jammed in between the plastic and metal parts of the rear assembly. I'm hesitant to use more force because it may destroy a wire AND because i have to put this stuff back together at some point...beware
It’s likely just a sample variation from inconsistent manufacturing (typical nowadays with overseas products). Mine came off with no issues, and the wires weren’t pinched anywhere.
If it’s badly jammed in there to a point where it’s difficult to disassemble, it’s concerning from a longevity standpoint because the pressure could wear through the wire insulation and create an electrical problem down the road.
It probably would be a good idea to leave it alone if you feel that the disassembly may be problematic. If you’re able to pull the motor out far enough to reach the two screws holding the plastic end cap to the rear bearing housing, I would undo them to see if the wires can be freed.
Hope it helps! Feel free to ask me any questions that come up!
@@TheSuperFanMan thanks for the advice!! I eventually was able to free it. I made sure to get a view of it from all angles and then try to move the wires one at a time to see how stuck they were. I was also able to bend the plastic surrounding it a bit to see if there was some wiggle room (and there was).
Thanks for the great video!! especially the part where you explain reassembly!! (many videos just say to do it in the reverse order).
o
No problem! Glad to hear you were able to solve it!
None of the screwdrivers I own fits, and I have several. Wish they didn't have to make accessing the screws so difficult. First and last Honeywell product I ever purchase.
Do your screwdrivers have interchangeable bits by chance? Usually those are too wide to reach the screws. A dedicated phillips head screwdriver is ideal for reaching them. I completely understand your frustration though.
@@TheSuperFanMan One has the interchangeable bits, but the others I have are just too big 😪
Ah I figured. I believe a Phillips #2 screwdriver is the right size, though that would be like a $5-10 expense. But still cheaper than a new fan lol.
Thanks.😌
No problem! :)
What size of torx screw driver ?
I believe a T10 Torx screwdriver will do the job. I just checked the screws on an older Honeywell I have, and T10 was the correct size. I think the newer fans also share the same screws. Hope it helps!
At 15:04 the HT-900’s don’t have as good as a spin down as the HT-800 series. I wish my HT-900 could be better.
Yeah I noticed that too. The HT-900 fans have smaller and lighter blades than the HT-800 fans, so there’s less momentum to keep them spinning when the fan is switched off.
My screws are extremely tight and hard to remove it from my fan
That certainly happens. Which screws aren’t budging? Usually the screws holding the grilles together and the 2 screws holding the motor to the back housing come out easily, as they’re threaded into plastic. The 2 screws holding the bearing assembly together can be tricky sometimes since those go into metal. If you’re able to remove the screws holding the motor to the back housing, try spraying a small amount of WD-40 around the screws on the rear side of the motor where the screws thread in. A few hours of wait time should allow the WD-40 is soak in, then you can try unscrewing them again.
My honeywell fan doesn’t have screws in the back to remove the front 😢
Is it a different model than the one in the video?
@@TheSuperFanMan It's an HT-900-09 and there is no screws :(
Odd, perhaps it’s a recent model... That’s pretty disappointing to hear, especially because the ability to disassemble these Honeywell fans was one of the reasons why they were good. Are the screws not hidden or deeply recessed?
Damn I wanted to wash the entire casing of it but i cant get to remove the cord. The dust on it is insane and i have had it for a month. Yes I clean my house and vaccum every couple days. It's mostly cause of the fires we just got and the smog.
The cord can be removed, though it’s a bit tricky. After the motor & switch are removed, the plastic strain relief piece can be pushed out of the fan from the inside. A pair of pliers will help with this process.
I removed the cord on this fan using the same technique (at 9:35 in the video): ua-cam.com/video/ydam2wCd-e8/v-deo.html
But even if you can’t remove the cord itself, you can place a small ziplock bag over the plug and another one over the two exposed strands on the inside of the housing, tighten the openings of the bags with rubber bands, and rinse the whole housing with water. Just don’t submerge it in water. Allow the housing to fully dry before reassembling.
For regular maintenance and dusting, compressed air does wonders, whether it’s from a canned air duster or an air compressor.
Hope it helps!
I like honeywell than vornado also they are more quiet than vornado
The Honeywell is definitely quieter than a similar size Vornado, mainly because the Honeywell doesn’t run nearly as fast. Vornado fans move more air though, but of course at the cost of some noise.
So which motor is better and why?😆
The PSC motor is generally better. More efficient and cooler running. The HT-900 fans with PSC motors draw less than half the current the shaded-pole HT-900 fans draw, without compromising performance.
@@TheSuperFanMan vs ecm?
ECMs (BLDC) are more efficient than PSC motors, but can be less reliable because of the need for electronic components. Funny that you mentioned ECMs, because I just posted a video on AC vs BLDC ceiling fans lol.
@@TheSuperFanMan Thanks for the reply...I'll be watching watching that new video. 😊
What size torx bit??
T10 should be the right bit, based on the ones I've worked on. I've noticed that some older versions have Torx bits with a pin sticking out of the center. With those, you can take a small flathead screwdriver and break off the pin before using a regular Torx bit.
@@TheSuperFanMan
Thx for the follow up. I have the older one & can now confirm it has two torx 15 security screws (one at 3 o'clock & one at 9 o'clock). I bought a full size torx "security" screwdriver set as a dedicated driver is the only thing thin & long enough to get in there without breaking or stripping something.
Honeywell HFT-311B from 2003 is the model referred to
Is that 2013 model
This HT-900 shown in the video is from 2017, but I also have one that’s from 2013.
👍
Oh, this motor look weird? I looked in my country there are no electric fans designed with this motor for sale. 👍
It certainly is an unusual motor style for a small fan. This is a capacitor motor, unlike the shaded-pole motors that are often found in smaller fans.
Anyone have issues snapping the front grille back on? With the holes and screws in place, the grille won’t stay on and is loose. So frustrating. This fan is so poorly made.
I’ve found that the recently made fans are trickier to deal with, particularly the grille. Did your grille snap into place so the seam between the front and back grilles are closed? There is a small notch at the bottom of the grille that needs to be lined up with the one on the fan. The screws should hold it in place.. but if they don’t, the screw holes might be stripped out. Try readjusting the grille and feel free to let me know if you have other questions!
Thanks that was very helpful I have three of these fans so I guess I have to get to work thanks again
No problem! Glad it helped!
5:31 what number grit?
Around 600 grit is good for sanding down any burrs. I usually like to go over the spot with 1000 and 2000 grit afterwards to give it a polished finish but that’s purely cosmetic.
What happens if you put silicone lubricant?
I’m not sure as I never tried, but I likely wouldn’t say it’s a good idea. I don’t think silicone lubricants will handle the high speed load of fans.
@@TheSuperFanMan silicone lubricant is for high speed like fans
Why’s my fan blowing air the wrong way now
It sounds like the stator was reinstalled backwards. The metal block component of the motor with the copper windings (called the stator) needs to be oriented with the wires exiting from the back side. You might have put it in backwards when you reassembled it. Simply disassemble the motor as I did in the video (remove the rotor too), flip the stator around, reinstall the rotor and put the fan back together. It should then run in the correct direction. Hope it helps!
@@TheSuperFanMan I have it all put in right I watched a couple videos on how to fix it including yours and the wires all line up correctly the black and white wires coming out back are more to the left the the front ones are more to the right
The screws don’t come out with regular screwdriver or any screwdriver for that matter…
They certainly do come out with regular screwdrivers, as I did in the video. These fans use either Phillips or Torx screws. Phillips #2 and Torx #10 or #15 are the correct bit sizes for the screws used on this fan.
I see in the comments plenty beg to differ. But thanks.
No problem. Are you using an interchangeable-bit screwdriver? Most of those will not be able to reach the recessed screws due to the larger shaft. You may need a dedicated Phillips/Torx screwdriver.
@@TheSuperFanMan yes using interchangeable def not working. Tried a very thin one used for small electronics but that wasn’t strong enough. Will try regular philips. Thxs
Well I tired fixing mine and it all seemed good until it was night and I turned it on before I went to bed.
I woke up to my grandpa bursting into flames after putting his nutsack in it.
So it’s broken again. Regardless good video.
Lol that sounds like a major user error. Did you remember to put the front grille back on? ;)
Where is the 2013 HT-900?
I think it’s in a box somewhere. The motor bearings gave up so it’s been out of commission for years.
@@TheSuperFanMan like in what way? Can oil work? My 2008 HT-900 also seems to have a very short spin down time
The low quality bearings developed some play from the excessive motor heat. Oil can’t fix worn bearings unfortunately. Most HT-900 fans seem to have relatively short spindown times compared to the HT-800 fans, as I wrote before, due to the lighter blades.
I’m sitting here with a screwdriver trying to get to the screws. They are a pain in the 🍑
They sure are! Have you tried using a dedicated Phillips head screwdriver? I find that most interchangeable-bit screwdrivers are too wide to reach the recessed screws.
I’m just going to buy a new fan, otherwise I have to go buy a new screwdriver
But a new screwdriver will be cheaper than a new fan. Plus it’ll probably come in handy for other projects around the house :)
Why tf is the screw so deep in the fan my none of m screwdrivers fit in the hole who ever made these are actually slow asf
I also ran into the same issue when I first attempted disassembling it years prior. The best way is to buy a dedicated Phillips (and Torx if applicable) screwdriver. Most interchangeable-bit screwdrivers tend to be too wide to fit.
Super useful! Thanks!
No problem!!
Thsnk you so much! 💕
No problem!