I am completely self taught. When I hear you make references like you made about the chatter being a result of going too fast for the hardness of the the wood, that kind of knowledge is so valuable to me and I just wanted to say I really appreciate it.
thanks for the positive feedback, glad the videos help you out, My father was a jack of all trades, so I learned a lot from him, that gave me a big head start to expand on over the Years - Thanks for subscribing!
very glad you found the video useful, this is a very useful tool and it works good, although it does take a little practice to get good cuts with it - thanks for subscribing!
Help, I got the same one and I’m trying to plain 2 by 6 countertops 25 in wide and it leaves ridges even when the blade was adjusted. What am I doing wrong? Please thank you
I am replacing a few deck boards that have rotted due to mold with new pressure-treated lumber. If the new boards are thicker than the existing older boards is this planer suitable for thinning the new boards? If so, would you install the new boards and then plane them down?
if the boards are less than the width of the blade, it will work, although I recommend going a little slow and doing multiple passes to get the depth you need, othersize a thickness planer would be best - you can use it if the boards are wider and do multiple password, but thats not very easy to do and get a good level finish - practice on a few scrap boards first - thanks for subscribing!
set the planer on a flat surface, use a piece of wood like I did in the video, make sure the rear plate is touching the wood along the entire surface of the plate, adjust the front plate so it is not touching the wood, lift off the planer, put only the front plate on the wood, run the planer down the wood, the wood should be shaved off flat, and the amount shaved off should be the difference between the front plate and the back plate, if no wood is shaved, I am guessing the blades are not aligned correctly, they should be level with the rear plate, so they will cut the wood, do this test and if it is not cutting, you will need to realign the blades - thanks for subscribing!
Question, is there a keep on switch? I know there is a safety, and that's well and good but I'm planning a lot of material off of a large piece and my hand is getting tired of squeezing the trigger..
there is not stay on switch, I agree that in some ways that would be very helpful, but I think the manufacturer did not want to take that chance with less experienced uses - thanks for subscribing!
that is mean to be an adapter (which for me it is not the right size) - you do not have to use the adapter, but I think it is meant to keep the hose from going in to far and blocking the exit hole - thanks for subscribing!
the only problem I have with the planer is the one mentioned in the video, the fence is not rigid enough, other than that, I have no issues, plenty of power - I did pick up the drill master planer to compare, and this one is a better tool - Thanks for subscribing! and thanks for the positive commment!
@@snapwholeharborfreightreviews I was thinking of the drill master but wasn’t sure. I’ve had really good luck with both brands. I just feel the Chicago Electric is a better brand but not sure. Like I said I take your word. Thanks for the response.
I’m going to be doing a live edge river table - once the epoxy has cured in the river portion as well as in the cracks I intend to fill, do you think this tool would do a good job planing the epoxy down the same level as the wood? I intend to practice a lot with it first before attempting it, just wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks!
it will work, I recommend building the same type of jig you would with a router (two parallel boards with a bridge), take off the guide and run the planer back and forth on the bridge, all intended to keep the distance from planer to wood/epoxy absolutely parallel so you get a good finish - very interested in your results - Good Luck!
@Farmer Jesse - the plane is capable of leveling a table top, but I would do a lot of practice on something else first - you would need to line up the multiple swipes down the table very carefully to get good coverage
I am completely self taught. When I hear you make references like you made about the chatter being a result of going too fast for the hardness of the the wood, that kind of knowledge is so valuable to me and I just wanted to say I really appreciate it.
thanks for the positive feedback, glad the videos help you out, My father was a jack of all trades, so I learned a lot from him, that gave me a big head start to expand on over the Years - Thanks for subscribing!
@@heathercarter9741 Trial and error my person. Unless it’s not yours, and too expensive. Then, you best know what you’re doing.
Thanks for the video I just picked up one and believe your video is better than the instruction booklet. I think now I’m ready to start! 👍🏾😎
very glad you found the video useful, this is a very useful tool and it works good, although it does take a little practice to get good cuts with it - thanks for subscribing!
I just picked one up on sale for members at $35. Can't wait to try it out and get acquainted. Over a month later. Still no reason to use, yet.
Very nice presentation. And helpful!
Thanks for the review. Here’s a comment for the UA-cam stats
Thanks for the comment - it does make a difference! - thanks for subscribing !
Help, I got the same one and I’m trying to plain 2 by 6 countertops 25 in wide and it leaves ridges even when the blade was adjusted. What am I doing wrong? Please thank you
Good job there captain 👍🏻
thanks for subscribing!
I am replacing a few deck boards that have rotted due to mold with new pressure-treated lumber. If the new boards are thicker than the existing older boards is this planer suitable for thinning the new boards? If so, would you install the new boards and then plane them down?
if the boards are less than the width of the blade, it will work, although I recommend going a little slow and doing multiple passes to get the depth you need, othersize a thickness planer would be best - you can use it if the boards are wider and do multiple password, but thats not very easy to do and get a good level finish - practice on a few scrap boards first - thanks for subscribing!
I've watched several videos on this tool and mine just isn't cutting. What could I possibly be doing wrong?
set the planer on a flat surface, use a piece of wood like I did in the video, make sure the rear plate is touching the wood along the entire surface of the plate, adjust the front plate so it is not touching the wood, lift off the planer, put only the front plate on the wood, run the planer down the wood, the wood should be shaved off flat, and the amount shaved off should be the difference between the front plate and the back plate, if no wood is shaved, I am guessing the blades are not aligned correctly, they should be level with the rear plate, so they will cut the wood, do this test and if it is not cutting, you will need to realign the blades - thanks for subscribing!
Question, is there a keep on switch? I know there is a safety, and that's well and good but I'm planning a lot of material off of a large piece and my hand is getting tired of squeezing the trigger..
there is not stay on switch, I agree that in some ways that would be very helpful, but I think the manufacturer did not want to take that chance with less experienced uses - thanks for subscribing!
Ok, thanks so much! I love your videos BTW
Do you have instructions on building that small workbench?
check youtube channel 'pask makes' that is where I got the idea from, and he does a good job of covering all the build - Thanks for subscribing!
Can you not just stick your dust collector into the hole without the adapter that you just pulled out?
that is mean to be an adapter (which for me it is not the right size) - you do not have to use the adapter, but I think it is meant to keep the hose from going in to far and blocking the exit hole - thanks for subscribing!
How is that planer holding up for you? I’m in the market for one and I trust your reviews more then anyone else.
the only problem I have with the planer is the one mentioned in the video, the fence is not rigid enough, other than that, I have no issues, plenty of power - I did pick up the drill master planer to compare, and this one is a better tool - Thanks for subscribing! and thanks for the positive commment!
@@snapwholeharborfreightreviews I was thinking of the drill master but wasn’t sure. I’ve had really good luck with both brands. I just feel the Chicago Electric is a better brand but not sure. Like I said I take your word. Thanks for the response.
@@snapwholeharborfreightreviews. Sorry so would you recommend the drill master or Chicago Electric?
@@segraves138 sorry for not being clear - I recommend the chicago electric, you'll be happier with it
@@snapwholeharborfreightreviews Ok thanks a lot. I’ll be picking one up tomorrow. Would you happen to know if they sell replacement blades?
I’m going to be doing a live edge river table - once the epoxy has cured in the river portion as well as in the cracks I intend to fill, do you think this tool would do a good job planing the epoxy down the same level as the wood? I intend to practice a lot with it first before attempting it, just wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks!
it will work, I recommend building the same type of jig you would with a router (two parallel boards with a bridge), take off the guide and run the planer back and forth on the bridge, all intended to keep the distance from planer to wood/epoxy absolutely parallel so you get a good finish - very interested in your results - Good Luck!
Good pace
Thanks - Thanks for subscrbing!
Thanks for the review. Do you think this planner would be able to level a table top?
@Farmer Jesse - the plane is capable of leveling a table top, but I would do a lot of practice on something else first - you would need to line up the multiple swipes down the table very carefully to get good coverage
bags are useless, U could hook a reducer to a shop vac.