Thanks Roger. Always looking forward to your video uploads. Cracking photograph you made there. Last weekend, when I was developing a roll of film, I had a visit. The guy was looking very confused, why I was having chemicals in kitchen, and flipping a tank...he could not believe I was doing photographs the old way 😝
We used to bracket exposure when using colour slide film. Very tight latitude. Negative film slightly overexpose. Rate 400asa film at 320. Works well with Portra 400
As you would said in the UK : whatever floats your boat (maybe not this one). Some times I do, some times I don't, and usually, when I do, I find it is useless (waste of film because I had the correct exposure at first) and when I don't, I should have done it :D but we have powerful tools to work with that
Again, a practical and informative video. Congrats. As for bracketing, when working as a photo assistant and later in my own studio, bracketing was de rigueur. Especially important when the client was paying anything from $1k to$5k a day for the work, the end shots better be right on, and doing a reshoot was often if not always impossible. For color transparency work, 1/2 stop increments above and below up to 1.5 stops. For B&W, one stop increments were common. Roll film did not have as much flexibility in processing as sheet film. Bracketed sheet film allowed for adjustments in processing that would affect highlight/shadow detail, contrast, and color shift or color cast. Besides, since the client would walk away with the film hero, having an extra sheet of film for your book was desirable. However nowadays, film and processing are so much more expensive that bracketing as thoroughly as we did in the past may not be economically feasible. Oh yeah, and if a bird poops on your film, you always have another one.
I bracket. It insures you get a good shot. Sometimes it is necessary. Because you can’t always meter for a picture, and realize that you can’t over expose and pull it in development. Because the rest of your pictures are shot at the proper exposure. Also when you’re on assignment you have to ensure you get a good shot. If your meter is off you could get a bad photo. It’s happened to me.
As a wise man said, "Suit yourself". Sometimes my head doesn't quite work for imagining dynamic range vs. zone system or the light is rapidly shifting. Then I bracket. Usually just in one direction because I have a good idea of what might blow out.
IMHO there is more to be gained by altering development to suit the subject rather than exposure. Accurate incident metering with development to contract or expand the tonal range has more to offer in rendering the scene .
I don't bracket very often... And when I do, I usually give more exposure... The underexposed shots are usually not usable... Even in digital pics... Sometimes, to play it safe, I actually take two or three pics of the same scene with the same exposure in case something goes wrong during development...
I really like your composition here, and i would probably also do multiple exposures of a composition like this. I’d also argue that it makes sense to double shots in case you get a scratch on the film. I tend to bracket only towards overexposure, as I often find the underexposed ones to be too dark. Thanks for another video. 😊
I don’t routinely bracket, but I’ll often take more than one shot because I sometimes get tiny pinholes in the emulsion and it’s a royal pain to correct for. Great to have a second or third neg. just in case.
great video Roger. I struggle with what size paper for what size print. Do you have a generic size to use? or do you have a number of sizes? is it normal to have 8x10 and 9.5x12 and 11x14 paper stock?
Nice video on all the process! I have a (stupid) question btw! Why do you meter your time for the aperture of f/16 and then go to change it to f/11 if you already know you would use f/11...? I don't get the meaning... :P Cheers ^^
It's just the way I meter a scene Jacopo. If the meter says f22 at 125th and I want to shoot at f11 I'll adjust the shutter speed accordingly to 500th. All works out the same.
What Tripod are you using please. I've just bought a Pentax 645N and looking for a decent not too expensive Tripod that will take the weight whilst remaining sturdy. Any other recommendations.
Its my photography I'll do what I like. Love it. Why does cheating even come into the conversation. It's a piece of art like a painting. It's only a cheat if you claim to be representing real life and you're not, like photo-shopping a sail onto the boat and saying this is how you found it
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss this is somthing I would like to try, but if I was to do this how many frames would I loose? As some frames would become the new leader?
Thanks Roger. Always looking forward to your video uploads. Cracking photograph you made there. Last weekend, when I was developing a roll of film, I had a visit. The guy was looking very confused, why I was having chemicals in kitchen, and flipping a tank...he could not believe I was doing photographs the old way 😝
Yeah that happens to me. Usually when I am on location with an old camera.
Roger I am loving the 135 w back on the etrsi...and I was a die hard mamiya fan ....enjoy the broni
Who the Heck was that chap in your doorway? Good God Man..run.
We used to bracket exposure when using colour slide film. Very tight latitude. Negative film slightly overexpose. Rate 400asa film at 320. Works well with Portra 400
Interesting Neil.
Nice job on showing us your work flow. Thanks.
That boat makes a great subject.
When burning a sky like that a good trick is to use a lower contrast so not to overexpose the blacks on the foreground while burning.
Maybe the orange filter would have given the boat (orange rust, blue paint) mor separation. 🤷
Possibly. I was looking more for the blue sky, if it came! Never did. I had a feeling Ortho would have been great for the rust
As you would said in the UK : whatever floats your boat (maybe not this one). Some times I do, some times I don't, and usually, when I do, I find it is useless (waste of film because I had the correct exposure at first) and when I don't, I should have done it :D but we have powerful tools to work with that
Again, a practical and informative video. Congrats. As for bracketing, when working as a photo assistant and later in my own studio, bracketing was de rigueur. Especially important when the client was paying anything from $1k to$5k a day for the work, the end shots better be right on, and doing a reshoot was often if not always impossible. For color transparency work, 1/2 stop increments above and below up to 1.5 stops. For B&W, one stop increments were common. Roll film did not have as much flexibility in processing as sheet film. Bracketed sheet film allowed for adjustments in processing that would affect highlight/shadow detail, contrast, and color shift or color cast. Besides, since the client would walk away with the film hero, having an extra sheet of film for your book was desirable. However nowadays, film and processing are so much more expensive that bracketing as thoroughly as we did in the past may not be economically feasible. Oh yeah, and if a bird poops on your film, you always have another one.
Thanks for that. I like reading stories of photography works back in the day.
Welcome.
I bracket. It insures you get a good shot. Sometimes it is necessary. Because you can’t always meter for a picture, and realize that you can’t over expose and pull it in development. Because the rest of your pictures are shot at the proper exposure.
Also when you’re on assignment you have to ensure you get a good shot. If your meter is off you could get a bad photo. It’s happened to me.
Exactly Jerry. A good safe guard
As a wise man said, "Suit yourself".
Sometimes my head doesn't quite work for imagining dynamic range vs. zone system or the light is rapidly shifting.
Then I bracket. Usually just in one direction because I have a good idea of what might blow out.
Good work ! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
IMHO there is more to be gained by altering development to suit the subject rather than exposure. Accurate incident metering with development to contract or expand the tonal range has more to offer in rendering the scene .
Love it as always👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I don't bracket very often... And when I do, I usually give more exposure... The underexposed shots are usually not usable... Even in digital pics... Sometimes, to play it safe, I actually take two or three pics of the same scene with the same exposure in case something goes wrong during development...
@1:13 Love it!
I really like your composition here, and i would probably also do multiple exposures of a composition like this. I’d also argue that it makes sense to double shots in case you get a scratch on the film. I tend to bracket only towards overexposure, as I often find the underexposed ones to be too dark. Thanks for another video. 😊
I didn't mention that but yes. I have had marks on a neg and wish I had taken a few more.
Sometimes I do bracketing as well! However, I do it when I scan the film and trying to optimize the image in PS using different layers.
I don’t routinely bracket, but I’ll often take more than one shot because I sometimes get tiny pinholes in the emulsion and it’s a royal pain to correct for. Great to have a second or third neg. just in case.
Yes I forgot to mention that Mike.
Another great video, 👍
Thanks Phil¡¡
Nice camera !
How did you like it compared to the Mamiya 645 you had a few years ago ?
I haven't put the two side by side. The Bronica is light which is a win bonus for outdoor photography.
great video Roger. I struggle with what size paper for what size print. Do you have a generic size to use? or do you have a number of sizes? is it normal to have 8x10 and 9.5x12 and 11x14 paper stock?
I usually use 12x9.5 paper which is fine for 10x8, 8x8 and smaller sizes. Also leaves a nice border area around the print if you want to frame it.
i braket when i now sure what the exsposior should be
Impressive that Bronica, have you thought about getting one for yourself?
The back is not mine. The camera I have on long term from a family member.
Nice video on all the process!
I have a (stupid) question btw!
Why do you meter your time for the aperture of f/16 and then go to change it to f/11 if you already know you would use f/11...? I don't get the meaning... :P
Cheers ^^
It's just the way I meter a scene Jacopo. If the meter says f22 at 125th and I want to shoot at f11 I'll adjust the shutter speed accordingly to 500th. All works out the same.
What Tripod are you using please. I've just bought a Pentax 645N and looking for a decent not too expensive Tripod that will take the weight whilst remaining sturdy. Any other recommendations.
It's a K&F Concept tripod. It's okay for this camera weight I find
Its my photography I'll do what I like. Love it. Why does cheating even come into the conversation. It's a piece of art like a painting. It's only a cheat if you claim to be representing real life and you're not, like photo-shopping a sail onto the boat and saying this is how you found it
look at mr. cheaterbob mcCheaterpants over here, bracketing his shots. lol
I bracket my photograghy because I struggle to find enough interesting subjects to fill 36 frames.
Ever tried cutting your shots out the camera and developing the few you've taken? Save the rest for another day.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss this is somthing I would like to try, but if I was to do this how many frames would I loose? As some frames would become the new leader?
"Bracketing is a sign of insecurity" Ansel Adams
😂😂
Bracketing is for people who don't know what they're doing. Get the exposure and development right -- that's the best neg you're going to get.