I'm so glad you tried this, as I have wondered about trying this for a while. The biggest advantage to a brush or rollered application, for me, is the lack of overspray. Spray finishes can be excellent, but I suppose they have been developed with bodyshops in mind , with time equalling money being the main consideration. That is not necessarily the best solution for someone restoring a car at home. It would not bother me if it took me 3 months to paint a car, as long as I got a good, durable, finish.
My brother handed painted a reliant regal 3 wheeler (plastic pig) in orange coach paint in the eighties....looked like a professional spray job I was totally surprised with the finish😊
Dave, you are a real trail-blazer, that's for sure! Many years ago I used to do a bit of work for a local body shop, and the painter there used an enamel paint for the cheap resprays, mainly because in those days he was spraying with cellulose paint and the finish straight from the gun always needed a lot of buffing to get a good shine, whereas the enamel was amazing really. You would have better luck with an enamel paint because they are made to flow out and take forever to dry, Tekaloid used to be a brand that was around at that time and was classed as a coach enamel. The main drawback is dust contamination (and flies!) owing to how long it takes to dry. Don't worry, you are super-skilled, you will master spray painting, no doubt. I have painted 2 full cars, albeit a panel at a time, in my own garage, and they have both been to shows and stood up to some serious professional scrutiny.
Cheers Bob, I have used Rustoleum enamel to paint a couple of cars, but the problem I find with enamel paints is that they are slightly hydroscopic, which is a real pain. Surprisingly easy to get a good finish, but it doesn't last. Thanks for you comment mate 👍
I once painted a VW LT van with a roller using Blakes yacht enamel. It went on fairly smooth, but it was a hot day so I should have probably thinned the paint down a bit. There was a run on the drivers door, but when the paint was fully hardened, it was difficult to sand this out.
Some years ago I used a paint called Parsons Re-Paint which was applied by brush. I did a Minor 1000 and a Mini and the end results were pretty amazing, in fact people would ask me where I had the re-spray done which made me feel pretty good!! First you applied a primer then the top coat but I always remember unlike house paint when you applied the top coat you brushed ONLY in one direction and never back....if you did it would leave a visible mark. The top coat 'gels' together and once fully dry and hardened it gives a high gloss finish. Its not cheap but lots cheaper than a professional re-spray!
True story Dave My father a decorator all his life was once commissioned to paint a car for a chap in black gloss paint would you believe! He done it with a brush laid it off as flat as a board and it looked amazing and shiny the man was extremely pleased with it bless him lol
tip the rolled on paint with a acrylic Hamilton or Purdy brush to get rid of the small bubbles. Rolling to fast and mixing the paint too much can also cause little air bubbles. Nice video though and shows the good and bad of rolling, helps everyone out who is thinking about doing this. Cheers.
I am going to roller paint my Prefect hot rod. I shall be using Epifanes yacht paint, applied with a roller and denibbed with a foam jenny brush. -it's kind of a coach building technique, people that have done this in the past have had excellent results. It's important to always be working with properly wet paint - never go back over partly dried paint. Thinning the paint by 10 or 15 per cent helps a lot.
gr8 work as usual dave ,interesting experiment with the roller , spraying is the way to go with body panels , but as you say ,on gravitex ,brush and roller are very good , i gravitexed the underside on my rs2000 project and then brushed on 2k with hardner mixed in but no thinners , worked a treat
you get the same bubbling when doing doors etc so i always lay it off with a brush and get a nice smooth finnish and no brush marks but never done metal that way
Definatley worth the try, there is so much work in spraying even after the car is prepped and even more if you dont have a booth. Portable booths made of polythene are available like a tent frame where you can use inlet filtration and extract, Elin Yakov had one to prime his GT6, as opposed to emtpying the garage of everything dusting out and then wetting the floor. Alternatively you could spray a panel at a time and create the finish after by flatting and polishing the nibs or runs out. You can see where the money adds up for a proffessional job, but its not all highly skilled, but experience helps (I would imagine).
eastwood do a brush & roller primer (OptiFlow), its expensive though in the UK, with epoxy you have around 72 hours to paint over without having to key it, you can get away with less activator in the top coat to keep it thicker especially in the summer,
Years back, hand painting was popular, special fine brushes, some sort of enamel car paint, probably no longer easy to get, but I have seen excellent results, something like coach building paint, perhaps easier to apply?
Make sure the rollers you use are solvent resistant, if not they will break down as you use them and leave bits and nibs in you paint, if this happens in primer it will show as nibs in the topcoat.
I’m sorry to say this Dave but I’m one of your early subscribers to this resto and shared it on Facebook etc , as I’ve been totally blown away by your fab skills etc and I’m totally gobsmacked you’re thinking about using a roller on the car :( Blown me away tbh :(
@@DavesGarageuk I just remember a while ago you said in one of your episodes that you might use a roller!!! Thought you were joking then I see this ! 🤦♂️😂😂
There are many ways of applying the paint. Once the lids off it is up to you. Pour it on, use a watering can, brush, roller or a spray gun. Bottom line it's all in the prep. You spend hours with a sponge washing it just use 1500 grit wetsand to flatten the surface. I've always rollered cars as I've never had a spray booth. If you can use a roller on an internal wall you can use a roller on an external surface. I'm literally in the process of doing bodywork on a mk1capri 1700 gtxlr and using the roller method to apply the primer. I used to wetsand plugs of yachts to take molds from so to me it's a surface which needs preparation. Keep up te good work
so i found if i went to flatten a line i just made it would take some of it right back off then id be furiously rolling to put it back on while simultaneously taking some off somewhere else. dont know if it was my prep or the weather or how the day before i 'wiped it with mineral spirits" 😡...which i probably had too much on the rag...im "experienced " with painting but not painting cars. definatey not expecting anything close to perfection just want some paint on the damn car. and im talking primer here ive not started paint
I swapped to a LVLP spraying set-up. It has many advantages over HVLP - you need less air, there's waay less overspray (I.E if you don't have a booth - we do but I know loads don't). Less overspray means less stuff flying around in the air. The main drawback of rollers is that nooks & crannies are a pita.. Same goes if there's a complex shape to do, you'll just struggle to get coverage - spraying works better. You can buy a good LVLP gun for 60 or 70 quid, get a good respirator, use a boggo smaller compressor & paint ahead. I 100% "get" the appeal of using a roller, but generally unless it's a very flat panel, meh, it gets dull - and even on flat stuff, it's also Dull. If it worked good, bodyshops would do it - they don't, so there's your "Hint".
Incidentally, I kicked into repairs on a turbo-'scort tailgate & passenger door today - mainly as no replacements could be sourced at "reasonable" cost. I got the passenger door done today - no big drama, needed a few areas replaced - but the tailgate is another story altogether.. Sweet Lord it's gonna need work everywhere. I'm bargaining on being stood working on that tailgate for the next week at a guess. If I get it done any faster, it will be a miracle. "Hint" was when I took the spoiler off & underneath every mounting point was absolute toast - that & when I took the glass out, most of the frame fell off with it... Wish me Luck. :-)
@@DavesGarageuk My Missus bought me my first LVLP gun a few months back off Amazon - a Voilamart one - I was a bit skeptical at first, but having used it for the last 6 or 8 weeks - yeah, it's a great way to go. Especially for 2k clear-coat - that stuff through a HVLP gun clouds up everywhere with paint mist very quickly & it will happily kill you stone-dead if you muck about with it on the "breath this in" front - with the LVLP gun, "air-mist" is about 1/3 of what it was with the HVLP gun - so the extractor copes a lot better, meaning I get to die less, which is always good. Same applies to that epoxy primer btw - it's laden with isocyanates that happily lodge in your lungs, doing you no favours - even if you are rollering it on. If it says "2K" on the label, be wary - 2K & lungs do not play well together, no matter how you apply it - Sensible Susans wear respirators just mixing it - and they're very possibly highly correct to do so too..
The only reason I’ve avoided a home compressor and spray gun set up is the initial investment cost but then having to buy a litre of paint and associated thinners every time you want to carry out a small panel repair. Sometimes a litre of colour can cost £80 plus all the other bits. Not really worth it for a one-off job.
Interesting what a roller could do, with some elbow grease. Looking forward to seeing the front arches being done Dave. Didn’t you film fitting the running gear or is it a trial fit?
When using two pack, you have to lay the paint out quickly and leave it to flow you shouldn’t keep going back over like you did. Also when you wet flat to polish best not to go below 1200 otherwise you will never get the shine back and you need to machine polish the heat created brings the luster back.
@@44ro.n try combi colour, it works better, you'll still get the bubbles, but you have more time to work them out, you'll get a feel for it, to remove the bubbles, very lightly run the roller over them, just the weight of the roller is enough
Hi Dave, with respect all the hours and hard work you have put in to your MK1 there is only one way to go, that's Basecoat and clear. Especially if you wish to cut and polish. 2K clear is not that hard to work with if you follow some basic rules.
If anything, I would recommend direct gloss and clear for a beginner, rather than basecoat & clear for two reasons. 1. if you get any shit in white basecoat, it will stand out like a sore thumb and this would be very likely when not in a controlled environment. Plus when flatting back, rubbing through the clear would cause a real headache for a novice. 2.When clear coating over direct gloss it is much easier to blend door shuts etc. You wouldn't even need to clear the awkward inner panels. But personally if I were Dave, I would just direct gloss the Escort, as you can get great depth & gloss out of modern direct gloss's and they are not affected by UV like older direct gloss colours. And I would invest in a decent spray gun. Do some research as spray gun caps are designed to leave peel in the paint to match factory finishes, choose a gun and air cap that leaves little peel for a better finish and less flatting. I use a T110 cap on my DeVilbiss GTi ProLite for show finishes.
@uncensored5104 This is not like the old days of cellulose that had a chemical bond, 2k or base coat clear rely on mechanical bond, if you clear coated over a 2k gloss it will not bond and over time will delamidate, as for spray guns and being a painter for many years. Yes my every day gun is very expensive but I've also use the cheapest gun on the market, yes there is a difference but with good adjustment and some patience you can achieve a good job. But if your gonna wet flat and polish there is no worry as long as you have many good coats of 2k or clear that you can cut back. If you really want to learn about painting, check out John Mr House of Kolors you will learn a lot.
@@walkingwithdogs8547 Clear does not delaminate from direct gloss, it is method that has frequently been used for years on high end & classic cars. Also when using a solvent basecoat over old panels it is more likely to lift old layers of paint, whereas direct gloss is more gentle in this respect. Thanks, but I do not need to watch any videos, I have been painting hi-end restorations for over 40 years now!
@uncensored5104 maybe if you do wet on wet it may work but if your leaving it to flash off and degas, if your looking for that real deap gloss it's simple you just use urethane it gives that and a diamond hard finish, saying you don't need to watch videos is ignorance we all continue to learn and as they say it's what learn after you know it all, I made comment about John kawasaki and you make it clear you don't need to watch a person like this. Respectfully your missing out but we all have apinions.😀
@uncensored5104 respectfully caps are designed for spraying all kinds of different materials, a gun doesn't come standard with a orange peel cap. It's just a general purpose cap and yes even with that setup you can adjust it along with air pressure, you can get great results, but when your a pro we have many caps and needles, if your gonna spary a pearl a standard metallic to other specialised exotic paints, you will change your set up to suit and your setup may be different to others. There is no setup that fits all.
Now I’ve seen you try I might give this a go The parkside rollers you have I think are the long pile ones so will leave more of a texture as they are more for masonry…and the foam I always find introduces bubbles Perhaps try the short pile (for smooth plasters/interior walls) and wrap/coil in masking tape then pull the loose fibers right out the box prior to mixing up The long pile I’ll probably go for just the primer perhaps then a light sand The trick I’ve seen with composites and woodworking epoxy is a little heat from a blow torch of safer a hot air gun to thin the epoxy top coat once applied (especially in uk temperatures) and it lets the bubbles rise and pop Then when you have s pretty good surface …cutting compound and a buffing polishing machine A tool that would probably come into play at the end anyway
well good try but you can not beat a proper prepair survice and a good sraygun yes it is a lot of work but after it cut and buffed then the shine comes out to be proud of you can not rush your paint work best of luck i know you will do a good job has you always do
@@rectrorick not using modern 2K paints that are designed to be sprayed on though. They used enamels and cellulose. If it’s being rolled on it would need to be used with a slow gardener and brushed out to remove bubbles to stand a chance of a useable finish.
Don't waste your time, Get the Spray gun out you would have painted the whole car by now 😊 This is ok for a good coverage on the underside and foot wells but Spray the car outside on a nice day if you are worried about the 2 pack 2 hrs job done and will be Hard in no time with express hardener 👍😊
I do this all the time for underbody and under arch work and it's very effective. It isn't ever going to work for painted, finished panels. However you can get far better results than you did. Start at the far edge and work much faster keeping on a single wet edge. You worked that paint far too much. Two or three strokes immediately after each other is enough. You said it yourself DON'T return to where you were.
I'm so glad you tried this, as I have wondered about trying this for a while. The biggest advantage to a brush or rollered application, for me, is the lack of overspray. Spray finishes can be excellent, but I suppose they have been developed with bodyshops in mind , with time equalling money being the main consideration. That is not necessarily the best solution for someone restoring a car at home. It would not bother me if it took me 3 months to paint a car, as long as I got a good, durable, finish.
Great video and nice little experiment 👍
My brother handed painted a reliant regal 3 wheeler (plastic pig) in orange coach paint in the eighties....looked like a professional spray job I was totally surprised with the finish😊
You don't know until you know! Great vid again mate, keep on rocking in the free world! And mind ya head 😆 👍
Thanks pall 😉
thank you for tying, not a total loss, knowledge gained.
Dave, you are a real trail-blazer, that's for sure! Many years ago I used to do a bit of work for a local body shop, and the painter there used an enamel paint for the cheap resprays, mainly because in those days he was spraying with cellulose paint and the finish straight from the gun always needed a lot of buffing to get a good shine, whereas the enamel was amazing really. You would have better luck with an enamel paint because they are made to flow out and take forever to dry, Tekaloid used to be a brand that was around at that time and was classed as a coach enamel. The main drawback is dust contamination (and flies!) owing to how long it takes to dry. Don't worry, you are super-skilled, you will master spray painting, no doubt. I have painted 2 full cars, albeit a panel at a time, in my own garage, and they have both been to shows and stood up to some serious professional scrutiny.
Cheers Bob, I have used Rustoleum enamel to paint a couple of cars, but the problem I find with enamel paints is that they are slightly hydroscopic, which is a real pain. Surprisingly easy to get a good finish, but it doesn't last.
Thanks for you comment mate 👍
I thought about doing this and I did have a go on the bottom of a door by watching this I now know its best to spray. Another great video thanks.
I once painted a VW LT van with a roller using Blakes yacht enamel. It went on fairly smooth, but it was a hot day so I should have probably thinned the paint down a bit. There was a run on the drivers door, but when the paint was fully hardened, it was difficult to sand this out.
Seen lads doing boat Hull like this and it look OK but for car body work hard to beat the spray gun.thanks for showing us.
Some years ago I used a paint called Parsons Re-Paint which was applied by brush. I did a Minor 1000 and a Mini and the end results were pretty amazing, in fact people would ask me where I had the re-spray done which made me feel pretty good!! First you applied a primer then the top coat but I always remember unlike house paint when you applied the top coat you brushed ONLY in one direction and never back....if you did it would leave a visible mark. The top coat 'gels' together and once fully dry and hardened it gives a high gloss finish. Its not cheap but lots cheaper than a professional re-spray!
True story Dave My father a decorator all his life was once commissioned to paint a car for a chap in black gloss paint would you believe! He done it with a brush laid it off as flat as a board and it looked amazing and shiny the man was extremely pleased with it bless him lol
Brave man to gloss black a car with a brush, it's the most unforgiving colour 🤣
tip the rolled on paint with a acrylic Hamilton or Purdy brush to get rid of the small bubbles. Rolling to fast and mixing the paint too much can also cause little air bubbles. Nice video though and shows the good and bad of rolling, helps everyone out who is thinking about doing this. Cheers.
Thanks for the info!
I am going to roller paint my Prefect hot rod. I shall be using Epifanes yacht paint, applied with a roller and denibbed with a foam jenny brush. -it's kind of a coach building technique, people that have done this in the past have had excellent results. It's important to always be working with properly wet paint - never go back over partly dried paint. Thinning the paint by 10 or 15 per cent helps a lot.
Great experiment mate.
Reckon you're spot on.
Worth a shot where it's not critical.
Thanks Ben
gr8 work as usual dave ,interesting experiment with the roller , spraying is the way to go with body panels , but as you say ,on gravitex ,brush and roller are very good , i gravitexed the underside on my rs2000 project and then brushed on 2k with hardner mixed in but no thinners , worked a treat
Morning Dave. That was a really interesting exercise 👍🏻 I’m no car repair man but I think a spray gun is the way forward 😊
Agreed
Rust-Oleum turbo spray cans work great. ,👌
I've not tried those
you get the same bubbling when doing doors etc so i always lay it off with a brush and get a nice smooth finnish and no brush marks but never done metal that way
Definatley worth the try, there is so much work in spraying even after the car is prepped and even more if you dont have a booth. Portable booths made of polythene are available like a tent frame where you can use inlet filtration and extract, Elin Yakov had one to prime his GT6, as opposed to emtpying the garage of everything dusting out and then wetting the floor. Alternatively you could spray a panel at a time and create the finish after by flatting and polishing the nibs or runs out. You can see where the money adds up for a proffessional job, but its not all highly skilled, but experience helps (I would imagine).
eastwood do a brush & roller primer (OptiFlow), its expensive though in the UK, with epoxy you have around 72 hours to paint over without having to key it, you can get away with less activator in the top coat to keep it thicker especially in the summer,
Interesting video,thank you
Well done that was interesting 😊
Years back, hand painting was popular, special fine brushes, some sort of enamel car paint, probably no longer easy to get, but I have seen excellent results, something like coach building paint, perhaps easier to apply?
Make sure the rollers you use are solvent resistant, if not they will break down as you use them and leave bits and nibs in you paint, if this happens in primer it will show as nibs in the topcoat.
I’m sorry to say this Dave but
I’m one of your early subscribers to this resto and shared it on Facebook etc , as I’ve been totally blown away by your fab skills etc and I’m totally gobsmacked you’re thinking about using a roller on the car :(
Blown me away tbh :(
Don't worry, it was an experiment 😉
@@DavesGarageuk I just remember a while ago you said in one of your episodes that you might use a roller!!! Thought you were joking then I see this ! 🤦♂️😂😂
Always keep a roller loaded with paint and its less likely to pull the fluff out of the sleeve 😊
There are many ways of applying the paint. Once the lids off it is up to you. Pour it on, use a watering can, brush, roller or a spray gun.
Bottom line it's all in the prep. You spend hours with a sponge washing it just use 1500 grit wetsand to flatten the surface. I've always rollered cars as I've never had a spray booth.
If you can use a roller on an internal wall you can use a roller on an external surface.
I'm literally in the process of doing bodywork on a mk1capri 1700 gtxlr and using the roller method to apply the primer.
I used to wetsand plugs of yachts to take molds from so to me it's a surface which needs preparation.
Keep up te good work
so i found if i went to flatten a line i just made it would take some of it right back off then id be furiously rolling to put it back on while simultaneously taking some off somewhere else. dont know if it was my prep or the weather or how the day before i 'wiped it with mineral spirits" 😡...which i probably had too much on the rag...im "experienced " with painting but not painting cars. definatey not expecting anything close to perfection just want some paint on the damn car. and im talking primer here ive not started paint
@poncandn1 I wetsand with 1500 between coats. Yes it'll flatten but you're working with microns not millimetres.
I swapped to a LVLP spraying set-up. It has many advantages over HVLP - you need less air, there's waay less overspray (I.E if you don't have a booth - we do but I know loads don't). Less overspray means less stuff flying around in the air.
The main drawback of rollers is that nooks & crannies are a pita.. Same goes if there's a complex shape to do, you'll just struggle to get coverage - spraying works better. You can buy a good LVLP gun for 60 or 70 quid, get a good respirator, use a boggo smaller compressor & paint ahead. I 100% "get" the appeal of using a roller, but generally unless it's a very flat panel, meh, it gets dull - and even on flat stuff, it's also Dull. If it worked good, bodyshops would do it - they don't, so there's your "Hint".
Incidentally, I kicked into repairs on a turbo-'scort tailgate & passenger door today - mainly as no replacements could be sourced at "reasonable" cost. I got the passenger door done today - no big drama, needed a few areas replaced - but the tailgate is another story altogether.. Sweet Lord it's gonna need work everywhere. I'm bargaining on being stood working on that tailgate for the next week at a guess. If I get it done any faster, it will be a miracle.
"Hint" was when I took the spoiler off & underneath every mounting point was absolute toast - that & when I took the glass out, most of the frame fell off with it... Wish me Luck. :-)
All the best with that pal
Ok, cool, I'll look into that closer to the time, you'll have to remind me though, I'm like a goldfish 🤣
@@DavesGarageuk My Missus bought me my first LVLP gun a few months back off Amazon - a Voilamart one - I was a bit skeptical at first, but having used it for the last 6 or 8 weeks - yeah, it's a great way to go. Especially for 2k clear-coat - that stuff through a HVLP gun clouds up everywhere with paint mist very quickly & it will happily kill you stone-dead if you muck about with it on the "breath this in" front - with the LVLP gun, "air-mist" is about 1/3 of what it was with the HVLP gun - so the extractor copes a lot better, meaning I get to die less, which is always good.
Same applies to that epoxy primer btw - it's laden with isocyanates that happily lodge in your lungs, doing you no favours - even if you are rollering it on. If it says "2K" on the label, be wary - 2K & lungs do not play well together, no matter how you apply it - Sensible Susans wear respirators just mixing it - and they're very possibly highly correct to do so too..
The only reason I’ve avoided a home compressor and spray gun set up is the initial investment cost but then having to buy a litre of paint and associated thinners every time you want to carry out a small panel repair. Sometimes a litre of colour can cost £80 plus all the other bits. Not really worth it for a one-off job.
Interesting what a roller could do, with some elbow grease. Looking forward to seeing the front arches being done Dave. Didn’t you film fitting the running gear or is it a trial fit?
Hi Mick, I didn't film fitting up the running gear, it was just to get it rolling, it will soon be on axle stands again 😉
Try purdy 4" white dove roller imo
When using two pack, you have to lay the paint out quickly and leave it to flow you shouldn’t keep going back over like you did. Also when you wet flat to polish best not to go below 1200 otherwise you will never get the shine back and you need to machine polish the heat created brings the luster back.
I tried this with rustoleum but kept ending up getting bubbles as the paint dried, I didn't use thinners though so maybe it would be better thinned?
Thin rustoleum with white spirit
@@DavesGarageuk i’ll give it a retry, with it thinned did it still produce bubbles similar to in your video? Using Rustoleum gloss protective enamel
@@44ro.n try combi colour, it works better, you'll still get the bubbles, but you have more time to work them out, you'll get a feel for it, to remove the bubbles, very lightly run the roller over them, just the weight of the roller is enough
@@DavesGarageuk thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try with combi colour. What ratio do you recommend for thinners?
@@44ro.n dunno sorry, I just kept adding it until it worked.. as a rule of thumb, if it runs when applied on a vertical panel, then it's too thin.
Question what type of roller did you use
Gloss roller
I absolutely LOVE that you tried this! By the way, I'm curious if you are a Welshman?
South Wales 😉
@@DavesGarageuk Thank you! I thought I might have recognized your pronunciations of a few things.
When are you going to get back to the opel manta
Hi DJ soon, now the weather is improving, hopefully pull it out and get back on it
Hi Dave, with respect all the hours and hard work you have put in to your MK1 there is only one way to go, that's Basecoat and clear. Especially if you wish to cut and polish. 2K clear is not that hard to work with if you follow some basic rules.
If anything, I would recommend direct gloss and clear for a beginner, rather than basecoat & clear for two reasons. 1. if you get any shit in white basecoat, it will stand out like a sore thumb and this would be very likely when not in a controlled environment. Plus when flatting back, rubbing through the clear would cause a real headache for a novice. 2.When clear coating over direct gloss it is much easier to blend door shuts etc. You wouldn't even need to clear the awkward inner panels.
But personally if I were Dave, I would just direct gloss the Escort, as you can get great depth & gloss out of modern direct gloss's and they are not affected by UV like older direct gloss colours. And I would invest in a decent spray gun. Do some research as spray gun caps are designed to leave peel in the paint to match factory finishes, choose a gun and air cap that leaves little peel for a better finish and less flatting. I use a T110 cap on my DeVilbiss GTi ProLite for show finishes.
@uncensored5104 This is not like the old days of cellulose that had a chemical bond, 2k or base coat clear rely on mechanical bond, if you clear coated over a 2k gloss it will not bond and over time will delamidate, as for spray guns and being a painter for many years. Yes my every day gun is very expensive but I've also use the cheapest gun on the market, yes there is a difference but with good adjustment and some patience you can achieve a good job. But if your gonna wet flat and polish there is no worry as long as you have many good coats of 2k or clear that you can cut back. If you really want to learn about painting, check out John Mr House of Kolors you will learn a lot.
@@walkingwithdogs8547 Clear does not delaminate from direct gloss, it is method that has frequently been used for years on high end & classic cars. Also when using a solvent basecoat over old panels it is more likely to lift old layers of paint, whereas direct gloss is more gentle in this respect. Thanks, but I do not need to watch any videos, I have been painting hi-end restorations for over 40 years now!
@uncensored5104 maybe if you do wet on wet it may work but if your leaving it to flash off and degas, if your looking for that real deap gloss it's simple you just use urethane it gives that and a diamond hard finish, saying you don't need to watch videos is ignorance we all continue to learn and as they say it's what learn after you know it all, I made comment about John kawasaki and you make it clear you don't need to watch a person like this. Respectfully your missing out but we all have apinions.😀
@uncensored5104 respectfully caps are designed for spraying all kinds of different materials, a gun doesn't come standard with a orange peel cap. It's just a general purpose cap and yes even with that setup you can adjust it along with air pressure, you can get great results, but when your a pro we have many caps and needles, if your gonna spary a pearl a standard metallic to other specialised exotic paints, you will change your set up to suit and your setup may be different to others. There is no setup that fits all.
Now I’ve seen you try I might give this a go
The parkside rollers you have I think are the long pile ones so will leave more of a texture as they are more for masonry…and the foam I always find introduces bubbles
Perhaps try the short pile (for smooth plasters/interior walls) and wrap/coil in masking tape then pull the loose fibers right out the box prior to mixing up
The long pile I’ll probably go for just the primer perhaps then a light sand
The trick I’ve seen with composites and woodworking epoxy is a little heat from a blow torch of safer a hot air gun to thin the epoxy top coat once applied (especially in uk temperatures) and it lets the bubbles rise and pop
Then when you have s pretty good surface …cutting compound and a buffing polishing machine
A tool that would probably come into play at the end anyway
well good try but you can not beat a proper prepair survice and a good sraygun yes it is a lot of work but after it cut and buffed then the shine comes out to be proud of you can not rush your paint work best of luck i know you will do a good job has you always do
Thanks Robert, I'll have to get myself the right kit when the time comes.
Gonna take some flatting with a rolled finish 🙈
Not with the right roller, coach builders used the paint by hand all the time 😉
Green ti 2k easy sand primer is very good probably would work wel with roller
@@rectrorick not using modern 2K paints that are designed to be sprayed on though. They used enamels and cellulose. If it’s being rolled on it would need to be used with a slow gardener and brushed out to remove bubbles to stand a chance of a useable finish.
@@peterbuckley5204 primer definitely would be ok because it gets sanded before top coat is applied anyway.
Could call it a Ford sandtex RS 😱
Good try Dave , never seen 2pack rolled so really interesting shame it didn't work ,but if you don't try you don't know.
That's exactly what I was thinking, I may pull on your bodyshop experience later on 😉
@@DavesGarageuk No probs only to pleased to help you.
Don't waste your time, Get the Spray gun out you would have painted the whole car by now 😊 This is ok for a good coverage on the underside and foot wells but Spray the car outside on a nice day if you are worried about the 2 pack 2 hrs job done and will be Hard in no time with express hardener 👍😊
Use a heat gun to get rid of the bubbles.
The other good thing about rolling the primer on is that you’re not spraying loads of wasted spray paint into the atmosphere and your lungs.
Very true, that bonnet only took a small amount of primer to cover it
got laugh# nice video. shame about the panel. whaha.
I do this all the time for underbody and under arch work and it's very effective. It isn't ever going to work for painted, finished panels. However you can get far better results than you did. Start at the far edge and work much faster keeping on a single wet edge. You worked that paint far too much. Two or three strokes immediately after each other is enough. You said it yourself DON'T return to where you were.
Thanks Peter, good advice 👍
Yes you can use roller for paint your car ,only if you want scheet job like I'm is doing
Man you ar madenes for sore
Sorry can’t watch this till the end. Mk1 escort and your doing this to it. What a shame
If you had watched until the end, you'd have seen me conclude that it's not for me, just testing to see what could be done mate.
You not be serios man ?