Dishwashers. Why does everyone install them wrong?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- 🍽️ Dishwasher Installation: Common Mistakes and How to Get It Right 🍽️
Dishwashers are essential appliances in modern kitchens, but did you know that many of them are not installed correctly?
With over 250 Ikea kitchen installations under my belt, we've seen our fair share of dishwasher issues. In this video, I uncover why dishwashers are often installed incorrectly and share valuable insights to help you ensure a proper installation for efficient, trouble-free dishwashing.
🔧 Key Points:
- 00:00 Introduction
- 00:45 What's the problem?
- 01:47 Why is it like that?
- 02:16 Oops...wrong word. Adjust, not install.
- 03:03 Possible reasons for not doing it right.
- 03:18 Securing the dishwasher
- 03:50 Don't do or accept this method.
🔗 Subscribe to Kitchens by Rannes for more expert tips on appliance installation and kitchen upgrades: / @kitchensbyrannes
📺 Related Videos:
1. • A Step-by-Step Guide o...
2. • 3 Things To Avoid When...
3. • The Ultimate Ikea Kitc...
❤️ 🔎📐💡✏️📏🗓️🔎📐💡✏️📏❤️🗓️🔎📐💡✏️
DID THIS VIDEO ADD ANY VALUE TO YOUR INSTALLATION❓
If it did, please consider sharing some love ❤️and appreciation 🙏with me right here:
kitchensbyrannes.com/product/...
ARE YOU IN THE PLANNING STAGE OF YOUR NEW KITCHEN❓
Making sure your plan is installable could save you a lot of headaches later.
I am here to help: kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kit...
TOOLS 🪛🔨 🪚
#CommissionsEarned
MY AMAZON STORE: amzn.to/3wcbdGL
My Power Tool line-up: amzn.to/3UvdkPA
My Tool Storage System: amzn.to/3UtVfRT
My Small Tools: amzn.to/3Uc9TeZ
Extra materials needed for a complete Ikea kitchen installation: amzn.to/44a5KNe
Screws and Anchors for Suspension Rails: amzn.to/3Ur9Jls
Please note: As an Amazon Associate, I earn a commission from qualifying purchases at no cost to you.
#Ikea #ikeahacks #howto #kitchen
🔗 Learn why dishwasher installations often go wrong and how to ensure a correct installation for a more efficient kitchen! - Навчання та стиль
We are following your channel as we install our IKEA kitchen and raised the dishwasher to match the doors. Once this was done what we found is the toe kick can be ran continuously across the cabinets including the dishwasher with a small notch cutout at the top to allow the dishwasher door to open. The dishwasher now looks built in to the kitchen rather than an afterthought.
Thanks. Im glad that you find the videos helpful.
The toekick/dishwasher trick you mention is great. I do that sometimes too, but not often as I've usually left before the dishwasher is installed. I agree though, it looks much better that way.
Thanks so much! I’m spending $46,500. On my smaller home’s kitchen and this is exactly what the kitchen contractor complained about. He never installed an 18 inch dishwasher before & said I ordered a wrong size. After returning the dishwasher I wanted for another $200. More in price, we discovered ALL 18” (apartment sized built-in) dishwashers are the same height. He is planning to do exactly what you said by inserting pieces of wood at the top, to raise it up in line with the cabinets too.
Now I’m going to SHARE your video with him & hopefully , fingers-🤞 crossed, my very expensive Kitchen won’t look like it’s just a jury-rigged installation. So glad I found your videos. 🙏🏼
I'm glad you managed to stop the contractor from taking the easy path.
Do it right 👍
Probably because the instruction manual they come with are horrifically unhelpful.
That is probably true.
Just about to install a new IKEA dish washer. So, this comes very handy. Thanks Rannes!
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you find it helpful.
Love your attention to detail!
Thanks. It can sometimes be a burden though 🙂
very informative ! ... im just now installing my dishwasher in my new ikea kitchen... i will lift the dishwasher & secure it on the side
thanks so much for sharing
cheers
My pleasure, Mike.
Good luck with your project.
Im installing a new one for my sister and I checked here just so I could get the best advice, you are exactly right, a 600.00 appliance is worth doing right
Yes, I totally agree with you. On your $600 dishwasher, you can adjust the rear legs from the front while it is in place, right? Makes it so much easy.
There’s a saying:
At a blacksmith’s home, wooden knifes.
Great tutorial. I am learning a lot from you.
Thank you for your feedback 🙏
Yeah, no Ikea kitchen in my apartment unfortunately. I'm stuck with a lower quality kitchen.
Most of his points are accurate, but there's a critical thing he missed. When installing dishwashers under a Formica countertop that has "particle board" as it's structural support or mounting board (now they call particle board as "engineered wood"), there is a very important reason to NOT have the dishwasher flush with the cabinet face. The reason you let it protrude past the adjoining cabinet face or frame is because otherwise the steam coming out of the vent by the handle will quickly erode and decay the particle board above it. The object is to keep the front of the dishwasher an inch or so out from directly under the countertop. This greatly lessens the water damage to the board from the steam.
The ONLY way to avoid that - when you prefer a completely flush look - is to spray coats of polyurethane or Marine spar varnish onto the board above the dishwasher to seal it against moisture damage from the steam during the drying cycles.
I have rarely ever seen the proper protective waterproof varnish or spray applied to the underside of countertops. I've repaired many cases where the hot steam has badly eroded the particle board, causing it to crumble apart. The only way to fix a situation like that is to remove the entire dishwasher and apply Minwax Wood Hardener to the board. It petrifies the wood & holes for new screws for the retaining brackets MUST be pre-drilled or a bust out will occur. At least 2 coats of wood hardener should be applied.
If the board is badly decayed beyond repair, the best thing to do is get "side mount brackets" for dishwashers and affix them to the adjoining cabinet frames. There's also a 24 inch metal top strip that can be used. They're all on Amazon under side (or top) mount brackets for dishwashers.
Thank you for your valued input.
You're right that the steam coming out of the dishwasher can be an issue. Not only when the dishwasher is made from wood or laminate but also when the countertop is quartz or granite and the steam outlet is on the side of the dishwasher, as it often ruins the door on the adjacent cabinet.
Just to clarify, I do not suggest that the dishwasher is mounted flush with the front og the doors but only at the top.
Thanks.
@@kitchensbyrannes What brands of dishwasher have you seen most often that has the side steam venting? I've heard of them but never seen them. The style of the control panels makes it hard to discern where the dryer vents are placed. Thanks. Good video. But all Ikea? That's a lot of repetition
That particular dishwasher was a Jenn-Air. Ruined the door real bad. I prefer the ones where the steam outlet is at the bottom of the door.
Yes. Only Ikea. 220 kitchens so far.
Practice makes perfect, remember 😎
Excellent video thank you sir!!
Thanks 👍
Thank you for sharing. Never thought of that.
You are so welcome!
Great video, thanks 😊
My pleasure, thanks 👍
thank you for your advice! :)
You're very welcome 🤗
Any suggestions on how to install the (built-in) dishwasher's cover panel and the toekick at the bottom of it? Ikea recommends using the BEHJÄLPLIG sliding door mechanism for installing the cover panel. Do you have any opinions on the BEHJÄLPLIG, or is it better to avoid using it? Additionally, do you prefer cutting the toekick (to let the dishwasher doors cover panel move "in" the toekick), and do you favor using Ikea's toekick or custom-made wooden ones?
Thank you for your comment.
I'm not familiar with the Behjälplig item as I'm certain it's not available in North America. I watched a bit of a UA-cam video explaining how to put it on, so maybe that'll be helpful for you.
ua-cam.com/video/awg0ZVKSWr4/v-deo.htmlsi=9Dy01sjQsInxF5o3
If I have to install a front on a dishwasher, I can only do it as the dishwasher manufacturer instructions show ie using the installation kit that comes with the dishwasher.
Regarding the toekick. If the dishwasher allows for the toekick to run in front of it, I often do that. But as you mentioned, you have to cut a bit of the toekick away, in the width of the dishwasher so allow the door to open.
In my L-shape kitchen, one leg has from the corner: a 24 cab, the 36'' sink cabinet, a 24'' space for a future dishwasher, and a 12'' cabinet ending 24'' from the next side wall. So that 12'' cab is by itself, screwed to the rail (and also to the floor), but its top is slightly moving in the front... Is it supposed to have a metal bar connecting it to the sink cabinet??
Thank you for your question.
No it's not. When the countertop is in, it'll be much more rigid.
And I you added an island support bracket (or similar), so it's secured to the floor as you mentioned. No problem 😃
My dishwasher has the "flimsy" brackets you talked about. But I would love to see how you used them for the side mounting. If you have any other videos on this, please reply with the link. I would LOVE to see how to do that. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you for your comment, Cece.
I don't have a video showing what you're asking. If your dishwasher offers the option to use the flimsy brackets on the side, there will be a slot on both sides similar to the ones on top.
Woo, what do you do if you have 1/2 inch overlay doors on a 2 inch face frame cabinet ? There is an inch and half of space so what are you matching it to?
Hmm.....good question.
Probably the frame, right?
I never really experience the situation you describe as Ikea cabinets are frameless.
Omg!!!!! It's working!!!! Tysm!!!!❤❤❤😊😊😂
What to do when there is damage from previous failed attempts to screw the dishwasher into the cabinet resulting in missing chunks of particle board to drill into?
Thank you for your question.
You will have to remove the dishwasher so you have access to the damaged area with the screw holes. You can fill the holes with wood filler or use some carpenters glue and as many toothpicks as you can possibly press into the holes. Let the glue cure overnight and cut and sand off any protruding bits. Now you will have a solid base for the screws.
The previous owner instaled and ikea dishwasher that catches on the base board because its too low. Im trying to figure out if its possible to raise it without taking the whole thing out or not
Alternatively, you can cut a bit of the toekicks in front of the dishwasher maybe 🤔
Please if you install the dishwasher that has handle next to a row of drawers, flush with the cabinet part or flush with the drawers? Thanks
Thank you for your question.
I'm not sure I fully understand your situation. Do you have an integrated door with a handle on the dishwasher? If so, I would position the handle on the dw door with the handles on the drawers adjacent to it.
One question? The dishwasher will not work correctly if it's not level with cabinet doors? Or is it just for looks? I'm not an installer so that's why I'm asking
Good question, Buck.
It's just for visuals.
Sometimes the dishwasher isnt flush at the top because otherways there is a problem of front panel hitting the dishwasher at the bottom when opening (with fully built in dishwashers). So you need to lower the whole dishwasher to the appropriate maximum height. This happens when the countertop is higher than usual. I think there is no right or wrong, but depends of where you are installing something and for what purpuse...
I understand what you mean, and yes, for some dishwashers with integrated front and buttons on top of the door, it can be different. However, I guarantee you that 95% of all dishwashers I see are installed incorrectly. If there's a rubber lip seal on top of the dishwasher, it must be raised up under the counters.
Sean Connery is in his voice bloodline.
I'll take that as a compliment 🙂
We extend the dishwasher legs all the way and we still have the gap to the top of the cabinet.
Is it okay to put in the side bolts to secure the dishwasher.
Will the dishwasher lift up if there is a gap 50mm.
It is lifting up when we load at the front at the moment as we have not put in the bolts to the sides cabinet.
You always have to screw the dishwasher into the adjacent cabinets, or into the countertop if it's wood or laminate.
If the legs of the dishwasher isn't long enough, you can cut a piece of plywood on which the dishwasher can be standing.
@@kitchensbyrannes Do we put the plywood under the dishwasher feet. The plywood may be moved around. We have quite a large gap with the dishwasher leg fully extended.
A few things can be the reason. Maybe your base cabinets are sitting too high. Maybe a new floor doesn't continue under the dishwasher so the latter is sitting in a "hole".
Whatever the reason, I suggest you remove the dishwasher and the cut plywood to build a platform for the dishwasher to stand on so it gets lifted up under the countertop.
Why Are The Brackets So Long.
Is It For Side Mounting Into Cabinet Fillers?
TIA
Good question, for which I have no answer 🤔
But you're right, they are longer than needed.
I have an LG dishwasher I am installing right now. The issue I am having is the controls are on top of the door, so if the dishwasher is mounted all the way up then you can’t see or activate the controls on top of the door. Nowhere in the instructions does it mention the proper distance to mount this dishwasher from the top of the door to the bottom of the counter so as to properly operate the dishwasher. You can press the buttons on the door with it partially open and close within 4 seconds, but you still cannot see the timer or operate any controls like “Stop” for example.
Thank you for your comment.
You're right. If it lifted up, as also shown on the LG website, you cannot get any fingers into the clearance between the dishwasher and the counter to operate and buttons. And if you want to get access to the buttons by opening the door while the dishwasher is running, you're doing what the owners manual instruct you not to do. Two contradicting statements.
I suggest that you ask LG.
Personally, I would lift it up as I describe, and shown on LG's website, and should I have the rare need where I had to stop it, i would open the door.
thank you for your response. I decided to leave it about a half inch below the counter top because it has a clock that shows the remaining cycle left and other indicators that light up and I thought we wouldn’t be getting the full potential or benefit without being able to see whatever information is being displayed.
Thanks again and have a blessed day.
You are welcome. Have a great day too.
Thank you so much for this! We will be replacing our laminate countertops by quartz soon and this has been stressing me so much, I dont want to see the big gap! My laminate countertops have a "laminated edge" so it hides it but the quartz wont. Thank you for this!
This was exactly what led me to this video! 😄 Hope your new kitchen is amazing! Mines almost done!
@@MrKickerZz Yes, thank you! Raised the little "feet" at the bottom and adjusted the toe kick plate and the gap is gone :-)
Thanks most people wouldn't notice that detail .
That's true. Many of my clients confirms this very often.
I’m installing a new Samsung, and the instructions are completely useless. They should just put a piece of paper on it that says “Figure it Out”.
My question is, if I raise the front up an inch or so, does it matter that it’ll be going downhill towards the back?
Thank you for your question.
You'll need to raise it at the back too so the front is vertical.
It might have a foot at the back which you can adjust from the front so you don't have to move it in and out. Check to see if you have it. It's right in the middle of the toekick.
So did you fix it on video?
If you watch the video, you will see that I didn't. Not my kitchen or dishwasher. ☺️👍
Most installers do it right by following manual, not feelings or esthetics. The reveal of 1/2 inch required to avoid moisture build up and mold. Adjust your doors to match with dishwasher or plan ahead when installing your cabinets.
I do think that you're incorrect and the lipseal located on top of the dishwasher supports my opinion.
There's no way of adjusting the adjacent doors to the dishwasher if the dishwasher door is sitting 1/2" from the counters.
However, your dishwasher, your kitchen, your way. That's fine with me.
What brand of dishwasher do you recommend?
Thank you for your question.
I don't have any particular brand as a favorite, but should I buy a dishwasher, I would primarily look at two things:
Noise level: the scale for sound isn't linear, so if a sound level increases from 40 dB(A) to 50 dB(A) - an increase of +10 dB(A) - it would be perceived as being twice as loud as it was originally.
Adjustable: On some dishwashers you can install the height of the rear legs from the front. This means that it's so much easier to install as you don't need to pull it out and put it back in when you adjust for the correct height. And should adjustment be necessary as time goes by, it can be done in minutes very easily.
Thanks!
You're very welcome.
Crap, I removed my old dishwasher and the installer didn't use barrier/foil tape on the particle board underneath the laminate counter top! Thank goodness I didn't use the machine very often, but only sparse. I'm thinking I should run a strip of stainless near the top front of the countertop underneath. I should also install a braided (anti-flood) water inlet line and a floor pan to be prudent for a replacement dishwasher, right?
You can also use a thin sheet of plastic and squeeze it in between the top of the dishwasher and the countertop. I cannot advise you on the other suggestions, as I'm not a plumber, but better safe than sorry, right? 😊
As I rethink the metal barrier strip, yeah, likely bad idea as condensation will surely transfer to the top of the strip where it's not wanted. Your idea with the plastic shield has merit though. Thanks! I should be able to cut some from the old dishwasher tub and glue it to the underside of the countertop.
Maybe I'm overly paranoid about water leaks as I know the odds are typically low, but to keep them as low as possible is best.
Or...pull out the dishwasher and add some wide adhesive tape to the underside of the countertop, and let it run down the side of the adjacent cabinets. Locate the steam outlet from the dishwasher and focus on that area in particular.
A most excellent suggestion as I have a discard cut portion of heavy duty 3M clear wrap when I worked detailing. There's not much left, but should be able to do at least half foot in width where it counts, the laminate edge and particle board strip. The replacement dishwasher is a Kitchenaid with a top door vent.
Thanks again for the brainstorming session!
You're very welcome. The alufoil stuff used for duct work can be used too..
Ty
You're very welcome 👍
Who knew! Thanks.
You're welcome.
Now you know too.
@@kitchensbyrannes oh it is! In your next video I need you to say “Suck it Trebec” lol
I can get the dishwasher to the right height, although the sound insulation is going to be a problem. But the real problem is the depth. This is a standard dishwasher (panel ready) and the IKEA cabinets are mounted on the rail correctly. So why is the dishwasher sit proud of the cabinet. It's less that 1/8" but I think it is already flush against the back wall, even without the insulation, so, no where to go...
Thank you for your comment and question.
It is hard to say the reason, but could it be the suspension rail at the back if you run it all the way through?
Most dishwashers are rounded at the back, so maybe that is not the case. Some also have a big black plastic part on the top with the text, "Remove before install." Could that be it?
@@kitchensbyrannes no, we left a gap in the rail... I thin it's actually the Kitchen Aid dishwasher and my inexperience. it looks like the cutout is supposed to be 24.5" and our depth is 24 plus the rail, about 24 5/16". I guess I was focused on the width assuming (you know what they say...) the depth would be, you know, standard. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the drywall and backing it with Masonite...
Okay 👍
You should have 24" exactly from wall to cabinet front. If the dishwasher requires more, yes, remove the gypsum behind it.
That should give you what you are missing in regards to depth.
we were told that it is required to have a cover panels that go to the floor on both sides of the dishwasher by Ikea. Is this true or were they just selling us more cover panels. if we do this we will have two seperate toe kicks. one to the left and one to the right instead of one continous to kick for the line of cabinets. Your thoughts?
True story....they want to sell more panels. I've never done that. The good folks at Ikea are happy to share "how to install" tips, despite having zero experience.
If you dishwasher is sitting far back enough to allow the toekick to run in front of it, that will look great. You might have to notch an inch or so at the top of it, for the width of the dishwasher, to allow the dw door to open, though.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you again! My only concern not using the panels is the inhearient noise of the dishwasher. I fear it may get amplified rattling around the large void under the cabinets. May have to test it both ways to see. thanks again!!
Say what? I'm not sure I understand. If you don't have panels, the opening must be 24", same as with panels after panels are in place. The panels doesn't serve a purpose here, only for visual.
@@kitchensbyrannes HAHA! ok, I'll try to do better. Dishwashers make noise and when you make noise in a void it reverbartes. the cover panels recommended by Ikea go all the way to the floor. enclosing the dishwasher and trapping sound. If I leave the coverpanels off there is the void where the ikea cabinet legs occupy. That void will be about 10 ft by long by 2 ft deep possibly creating a space for the sound of the dishwasher to magnify via echo. Like talking in to an empty pail. Does that help?
Ah, now I know what you meant but I don't believe it 🤣
Most folks may think that, when comparing noise levels for dishwashers, that going from 48 to 51 dB isn't that much, but it's actually double up, as the dB scale is logarithmic, so an increase in 3 dB is a doubling.
So, making sure getting a dishwasher with low dB is very important.
Edit. Checked with Google.
Although an increase of 3 dB represents a doubling of the sound pressure, an increase of about 10 dB is required before the sound subjectively appears to be twice as loud. The smallest change we can hear is about 3 dB.
Surely a freestanding dishwasher doesn't need to be raised?If it's an integrated one then that's different.Do free standing dishwashers even have holes to screw into the carcass??
Thanks for the comment.
I believe that any dishwasher, with a very few exemptions, are designed to sit snug under the counter.
I've never seen a new dishwasher without the holes for securing it into the adjacent cabinets.
Thanks
You,re welcome, Richard.
@@kitchensbyrannes if it wasn't for you I wouldn't even knew my dishwasher had adjustable legs lol
NOT TRUE WITH MINE! THE controls are on the top of the door and there must be space on top to get to the controls.
Thank you for your comment. I would say: It depends. Not long ago, I saw a dishwasher which was designed to have a 2" gap to the counter but it looked really weird.
If your dishwasher has a 30" high front and a rubber lip on top of the dishwasher body, I am certain it is meant to be lifted up to rest against the countertop. But your dishwasher. Your rule. No problem.
That’s The Newest Design.
You Can Google It.
I'm trying to pull mine out right now and who ever installed it, didn't finish the tile floor first so one foot is on the tile and the other is on bare wood with a shim. It's been there for God knows how long we've live here for 6 years and it wasn't new when we moved in. I can't get it over the tile and the foot screw seems to be stuck. I can't lift it up even by a half inch due to the counter top. Please help. :(
I'm sorry to hear that. That's an unfortunate situation.
I've experienced the exact same thing once, and you not going to like the solution: countertop off 😱
Fortunately I was able to get the foot screws to move. Shheew!!! Tysm for the quick response!!
Yay 😁 you did it 💪
Let's not get to excited....I still have to reattach the electrical wiring... about to do that in a few mins. My back is killing me! 😅
A strong coffee ☕ and then back at it. Remember to disconnect power for the dishwasher before touching the wires.
They make a steel bracket made for stone counters that spans the area under the counter and attaches to the sides allows you to screw the DW under the counter..sells at home depot for $15.00.. If its worth doing right, use the brackets designed for stone countertops, and dont go screwing into the sides of your kitchen cabinets... the next DW you buy might not attach that way, so use the right brackets.
Thank you for the information. If you have a link for the item you mentioned, please share.
I don't install dishwashers, so I am relatively indifferent to how the plumber/contractor will do the job. However, that doesn't stop me from pointing out that most dishwashers I see (still) are not lifted up under the countertop. Also, as described in the installation manual supplied with most modern dishwashers, they have holes inside the door opening to secure the dishwasher into the adjacent panel/cabinets.
I agree it is worth doing right, but securing the dishwasher to the side or the top is not better than the other in my opinion, as long as it is positioned correctly.
I would really love to find a contractor that has an attitude like you but not cost me an arm and a leg....
Thanks, Alex, I'll take that as a compliment.
Mine is sitting correct and every dishwasher I ever installed is too.
That's good to hear Rickey.
Not sure I trust a do it correct video when the correct language is to do it correctly. Lol
I had a great day, until now 🤣
If the buttons are on top you would not want it raised
Thank you for your comment.
If the buttons are on top of the door, yes, you would still raise it up. There's a clearance from the top of the door to the top of the dishwasher box, so it can still be sitting snug under the countertop, aligned with the adjacent doors/drawers.
Bro, you went and explained how everything is done wrong without explaining how to do it correctly.
True....which I realized so I made a short video showing how it should be.
So, all that talk, and NO SHOW ???
Thanks. True, you have a point.
However, in the video I'm highlighting an issue which are for someone else than me to fix. I never install dishwashers as they are installed after I complete an installation.
The purpose of the video is not show how it's done, but to let you know that you'll need to ensure it is done correct.
This is a non issue
I'm glad we got that settled 👍
Well that’s one way to waste a few minutes of your life
Thanks for your valuable insight 🤔
I guess you knew this valuable information already? Not a lot of people do, so that's worth feeling good about 👌
Who cares
Well, I care! But hey, to each their own.