Trying To Fix A Weedeater Blower But It Has Other Ideas
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
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Thanks for watching. This blower had a stuck piston ring, that I ended up freeing, but things did not go according to plan.
This video is meant as entertainment, always practice safety.
Check the flywheel key to make sure it's properly aligned for the timing. These are known to strip out rather easily.
Exactly !
agreed!
Timing is what I thought of the first time it backfired before he broke down the engine and I was surprised when he didn't check anything about timing or the valves.
2-strokes don't have valves.
@@mikespain8655well actually they do, although it's not like four strokes... 2 stroke engines sometimes have reed valves
Sometimes you just have to know when to quit bud. We have all had our failures.
I know right, it's looking that way. thanks man
@@HomeGaragechannelagree, I wouldn’t of touched it off the bat, but I know you like a challenge 😊
Follow up PLEASE! You’ve gone beyond anyone else on UA-cam, but you’re not at the end yet.
Flywheel key, clogged muffler, ignition coil, etc etc etc. The suspense is overwhelming.
It doesn’t matter if it’s WORTH fixing; it’s about KNOWING the solution … or, what’s around the next corner! Are we at the bottom of the rabbit hole, or is that a FORK in the road ahead!
Love your channel!!!
you are correct, the flywheel key was sheared so I had to cut a new groove in they flywheel and install a new key
So..... No compression & spark test first, just tear the engine apart on a $90 machine? I know this is your hobby, and you wanted to see what the hell was going on, but this machine (Anything Weedeater/Poulan) when coming into a professional shop, has an invisible sticker on it that reads "when in doubt, throw it out". I love your videos, always fun, and you do great work, I just think in this case we need to remember that this particular make of unit is a chunk, right out of the box. These things are paper weights even when they do work. Every time I see one of these things come in, I check to make sure there is still room in the scrap bin before even putting it on the bench.
you make a good point and you're right I dove right into it, but to frank most homeowners wouldn't check for them either. I've got one more idea, that probably won't make it to film and if you saw all the clues in this video, you'll already know what it was I didn't do besides the obvious of course. At least this wasn't my usual , clean the carb and it works - video.
Great learning experience, despite the outcome. If you couldn't fix it, then it isn't worth fixing! You go over the top with troubleshooting, time and effort. Thank you for letting us all view your ups and downs when it comes to the wonderful world of engine repair!!!
thank you, I really appreciate your enthusiasm for the project, It means a lot
3:35 this saved me a lot of trouble, thank you! I took the bottom and fan off to work on the recoil spring and didn't notice that the spacer sleeve over the shaft fell out. Put it back together and the fan was rubbing against the housing which wasn't happening before. Saw this video then found the sleeve and re-assembled 🙏🏼
Glad it helped and thank you for your time
My craftsman leaf blower does that every now and then. I've also cleaned the carbon off pistons by soaking it in my ultrasonic cleaner
Man I should have tried that myself !
I remember working on those. It got so bad, I just started telling my customers to buy a new blower. I trashed many of these things.
agreed, they are not worth the effort
Man it’s leave blowing season and my blower still runs like crap. Looks like I need to go back and watch your old video for reference points. Thanks for what you do bro.
anytime and honestly I would just get a new carb from amazon and it should fix most of your issues.
The fact this is the only one he wasn’t able to fix is impressive also, makes me never wanna buy a weedeater product lol
LOL!!! the fact that I can't get this fixed makes me want to try even harder. thanks again.
Compression ✅, fuel ✅, spark ✅...
That means timing .. a backfire out the intake would also suggest timing.
Hopefully you got it sorted
You are 100% correct and yes I did get It running after installing a new flywheel key
I have seen that in units that are flooded a LOT. (liquid puddles inside the case) Once I get them "kinda" running I always go "muffler down" for a minute to clear out anything that might be there. If you see a lot of smoke that way, it's extra fuel that was puddled in the case.
I like that tip!
Its the flywheel key!
Its the flywheel key!
Its the flywheel key!
I found that out post mortem when i snapped the ring jamming the piston in the engine, like the proper caveman I am 😂
BINGO!
@@HomeGaragechannel ,
Now Mr. HG,
What design flaw caused this to happen?
Hint , air restriction.
(Flattened elephant nose , causes air restrictions.
This causes failures on shop Vacs as well.
Oh my favorite brand 😆 The problem is you have to spend more time on it than its worth but I have to admit I want to know 🤷
LOL!!! yep these are certainly cheap, but it's a fun experience for sure.
Have a weedeater string trimmer. My issue, which I thought was spark, ended up being the off switch ended up breaking internally and was permanently grounding the engine, not allowing it to run. Might want to see if that is an issue.
normally I'd agree except this one doesn't have a switch at all. To stop the engine just move the red lever all the way down and it closes the throttle plate.
Check the flywheel key which can sometimes break since it's moulded into the flywheel itself because sometimes it's cast aluminium.
Check for spark then squirt some fuel down the throat of the carburettor then see if it will start,do a crankcase pressure test as mower guys such as Donyboy73 & Taryl Dactal do !
yep that's the next plan.
Love a follow-up
it's still sitting on the table right behind customers stuff, I'll get back on it in a bit. thank you for the interest
Thank you for the video.
thank you for your time!
Check the black plastic manifold, between the carb and head. see if its loose....& check flywheel position see if key position moved....Only other thing I've seen with motors this type would be a bad coil...firing sporadic...Had that on a string trimmer once...Changed coil with a known running one...& started right up??? The bad one did fire with a spark tester, but I dont believe it was hot enough on firing in time.....Thats about all I got!!! Hope you get it!!!
yep all great advice! thank you and hopefully I can get this thing done and sold!
Those are junk . but I have replaced the coil with those symptoms and it ran . problem is they get hot then they don't want to run right . Good luck thanks for taking the time to video
no problem and I appreciate the insight
Not everything can last forever but we do our hardest to keep them running as long as we can before the engine finally breaks either way you did a fantastic job what you did, if the engine is indeed broken then I'm sorry for that
well said.
I repaired 2 machines of this type (were branded Sears or Poulan) several years ago. I replaced piston rings on both. each machine had developed a flat spot, which led to liw compression. Back then, i coukd easily buy replacement rings for tgese 25cc
nice, it's too bad parts for these are now difficult to find.
i have one that i dont need
Been there before after all that work n time I tossed it across that yard n called it a day! I had the same exact blower
I sure felt like doing it to.
Sounds like the engine is down on compression the.pull start system on this one is strange one of these
yes it does but I have one more idea to check
@@HomeGaragechannel okay hopefully it will work out for you to get it fixed up and running again h.g
Acts like it's loading up to me but probably just related to Poulan and Tecumseh! Blessings and happy weekend
you might be on to something
Great video, that blower sure is giving you a fight, perhaps ignition timing?
yep so far that's the consensus.
I'm unreasonable too. I hate to give up on a machine if I can fix it. I rarely junk one unless it is beyond repair, even if I can't make any money on it. I just hate letting one beat me unless I really need the parts for a better machine.
glad to know I'm not the only one
I didn't see a spark test, maybe I missed it in the first video. Looking forward to seeing the next installment in this series.
So unfortunately I did not do one, and I should have. I intend on making up for it in the next video, where I have 1 last plan for it, otherwise it's going to be used for parts.
@@HomeGaragechannel I just started a Small Engine Repair class at a local community college. I'm enjoying the class and your videos are also informative. Thanks for what you do!
That piston ring needs to be oiled. A dry ring will have low compression. Easy way to check for a stuck ring or low compression is to pour raw 2 stroke oil down the plug hole. Then add a little gas through the intake. This will temporarily increase compression, if it starts then it could be worn rings, stuck rings etc.
oiled off camera before installation thanks
It looks like you’ve covered most all possible scenarios but what if it has a bad on & off switch or Maybe the spark plug
that's the funny thing on this model, there's no on/off switch.
I'd say it can be an ignition, bad coil or spark, but I've looked up to comments, which said about a key, which still kinda a part of ignition system, timing part.
you are correct the key was broken causing the ignition timing to be off?
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah, there should be couple of magnets in flywheel, which inducted an impulse to a cool, every revolution of motor. By rotating flywheel, ignition timing can be changed, advanced or retarded.
Modern coils have a chip inside them for timing, but flywheel itself still shall be in only one spot, because its tightened down.
110psi is usually enough to get those little guys to at least start and run to some degree. I would start with: Spark Test, probably a new plug first is a good idea, then make sure the cap is still secure into the wire. After that, pressure/vacuum test next. It could have an air leak that isn't quite as visual at first. I always worry about plastic covers against a block with an O-RING. the slightest deformity on it or crack in the plastic can cause a leak so bad it won't run and isn't easy to see.
An off the wall thought, is a totally blocked muffler....I know you drilled an extra hole, and this old one likely doesn't have many passages to be blocked, but I've had those mud dauber wasps totally block a muffler exhaust port before. Imagine my surprise when everything was checking out and it still wouldn't run lol.
thank you for all the advice, I really appreciate a second set of eyes on projects like these.
Good video thanks for sharing👍👍👍👍
No problem 👍
the best way to clean a ring land is with a piece of piston ring next time you are scrapping an engine cut a piece of ring to a comfortable size and keep it on hand consider it another tool for the box that you don't have to pay for
thanks
While we could yammer on about that dark place you're stuck in right now, one question arises that hasn't been noted: Have you checked the ignition/engine timing? Try not to overthink what is or isn't more than 8 degrees advanced from TDC when starting and just check the flywheel key way.
you are correct, I forget to pull the flywheel off the crank to check the flywheel key.
I think the crank might be worn, thus nor allowing it to start.
that's a great possibility
i've had plugs that fired just fine as long as they were not installed , but wouldn't fire once installed . if i have a new plug , or even better if i have the same plug in something else that does run , i'll switch plugs 1st thing . if i don't have either , i'll heat plug tip and quickly reinstall/try to start . mostly though , i just refuse to work on 2 strokes .
Thank you Bill Smit, I'll be sure to replace the plug in the next video
Hmmm, yes a puzzler. Some good commenter’s suggestions. With that little backfire almost has to be in the ignition system/timing. BTW I noticed this one had a dot for location of the ring gap. Working on an Homelite with no marking. Where would you suggest aligning the gap?
really? I've never seen one without the pin to Help align the gap. As for a suggestion anywhere where it will not
pass thru one of the opening in the cylinder.
I saw you drill another hole in the muffler,I still think you should take the muffler back off,and try starting it with the mufffer off.l think the muffler is still clog.
yes I think you're right
Ignition timing, ignition timing, ignition timing. Those jobs will lead you running in circles and wondering, why me!? If a two stroke has good spark, good compression, and good fuel, but still won’t start, there is something wrong with the ignition timing.
you are correct
Video idea: find a mower with too many problems and strip it for parts? - Evaluate/price/sell/profit?
I've got of few of those in the works already. I made that video on that John Deere that was left for dead in the field. I just have to strip it down. thank you!
Perhaps a leak down test... otherwise a new lawn ornament! ☺ Parts for other projects, maybe? You have already spent a lot of time on this.
agreed!
It had more than enough compression to run. I don't think the engine was the problem. Did you ever check to make sure that it had consistent spark? I don't know much about these engines, but due to the back fire, it could also mean that the timing was off somehow.
yes I believe this one had a sheared key which is hard to do on a blower
How did u ever make out with this one?? Curious..
it's still waiting in line for customer stuff to be finished first. But don't worry, it's the next thing up once they're done
Has it got spark could be your coil ?
yes it has spark but I failed to show in the video. However I will be showing a spark test in the next video on it.
I didn't see you check the flywheel key
You took it all apart but I didn't see you take the flywheel off the shaft.
At the same time I wonder if the ignition coil has an issue
Congratulations!! you're the first person to spot it. I think you're right, because it's popping out of the intake
I'm guessing the flywheel key is broken. We'll find out soon enough. And yes the coil is also a great possibility. I really like the way your mind works!
I would say a bad seal(s), or l guess a bad coil. And because of the quality of that blower l would just move it down the line, or save it for parts.
good idea.
Spark, coil?
that's an interesting idea, I might have to look into those, thank you
Try changing the coil
yes that's good idea.
The spark plug is toast.
yes I was planning on changing it in the next video
Whats that soap youre using to clean your machines?
I use the only degreaser harbor freight sells. IT's got a strange name
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks :)
That’s a small leaf gas. It almost looks like a toy blower. It looks like that most Weedeater branded products have been discontinued.
yes it's not a very good blower for anything more than a garage, or porch.
@@HomeGaragechannel I would much rather use my 36 volt Makita blower in which I do all the time!
good choice!
Try some starting fluid.
still pops just the same with starting fluid or starting it normally
Time to fill up the carb with JBweld !
LOL!!
Try a different plug. I had a hard time getting a chainsaw to start. Put a new plug in and started right up
thank you !
Timing or an air leak.
thank you Brian King.
Sheared flywheel key is my guess
yes I think so too.
Check spark and timing
thank you!
I like to think I can see the best in the Weed-Eater brand (and cheaper brands of power equipment in general). I generally believe that they are not nearly as bad as people make them out to be … especially the models from 15 or more years ago. That being said, I have absolutely no use for Weed-Eater blowers! Sad to say, I find them to be total junk!
I know right, but I guess it's better than not having anything
Is that a 25cc motor?
yes
It might a sheared flywheel key.
I think you're on to something!
@@HomeGaragechannel yep for sure i know Donyboy73 made a video by comparison too etc.
I dont by cheap blowers to fix or resel bicuse the parts are somtymes more exspensive then A New blower and dit you check for spark
you are absolutely correct
I think it is something to do with the ignition timing
I think you're right. Flywheel key might be sheared.
Check the spark plug.
thank you
Just wondering is it bad for the engine if I run my whipper snipper to 0 fuel, my blower to 0 fuel and my new honda mower to 0 fuel. Is it bad for the engine that it has to run like that at the end or is it fine?
I have a Stihl KM-56-RC whipper snipper, Stihl BG-86 leaf blower, and a Honda HRG466PKU lawn mower.
I have not seen any damage caused by it running out of fuel.
In fact if you check the owners manual it might answer your question about storing it.
@@HomeGaragechannel Ok thanks. I pretty much use them every 2 weeks, because it is Spring here in Australia and should i even bother removing the fuel or no?
Sheared Flywheel Key 😩😩😩😭😀
I think you're right, and that's the plan for the next video.
have you checked the coil?
I was saving that for the next video.
U didint check spark😭
spark was confirmed
Spark plug
thank you
11:00 check for spark?
So I didn't check for spark on screen because it was trying to start, during the test video. So it does have spark
@@HomeGaragechannel you went through the fuel side completely and also fixed the rings and jug is solid. I have had spark plugs fool me before. Fire in open, but not under compression. It is on the cusp, I would check for weak spark or late spark. It’s like a Mopar. My Old Pig Ain’t Running.
Bad spark plug maybe
yes I certainly will try it out, thank you
Lap the valves
I wouldn’t waste my time working on ANY WeedEater brand equipment. Throw away machines. The problem is….it’s a WeedEater brand. JUNK.
I've heard that a lot
I'll tell you what the problem is. the problem is that it's a piece of junk
hi