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I've been a carpenter/woodworker for over 35 years, everything from new home construction, remodels, home improvements, cabinet shops, boats, fine art furniture, set building, and so on - I used a corded version of one of these things last year while in Georgia building a bar in a pals home. It blew my mind, I still have and am using tools I purchased 30 years ago (I still use the 7-1/4" Makita circular saw I bought in 1987) - I finally decided to start upgrading my tool to the Makita 18/36v system, amazing stuff. Makita has a subcompact line that are all black in color so I've purchased a couple of those tools including the multi tool and used it on a job for the first time last week, it's like a surgical tool with very little vibration at all. I'm super stoked - Even bought the dual battery 7-1/4" circular saw - SO nice to "cut the cord" FINALLY - The work goes by faster with a lot less aggravation from dealing with cords I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work
I think I realized why I like this guy so much... he manages to condense complicated processes into an intuitive, conversational, never patronizing, lesson. He would have made an amazing teacher. Whether you've never touched this tool in your life, or you've used it 1000x, he just perfectly (in a few min) explained all the things to consider bf starting and fixes for every common problem. Now I'm far from a pro, but I like to approach every problem/ new skill this way. Plan in advance, attempt to execute, but when complications inevitably arise EXAMINE WHY. Try to learn from the experience and minimize that error going forward. As long as you're always improving, you should end up in a good place ; ) Way to go Honest! Love all your content.
I watched this short video before buying my multi-tool and applied all the tips to my first cut - went super smooth, saved a ton of time and wood, and made a pretty good wooden fence posts at first try. Awesome guy!
I’ve been using a multi tool for years. Here are a few useful tips: If you need a precise straight line, use a blade with a curve(He showed one from diablo ). This prevent the chatter you get with a long straight blade. There are ones that look like a half circle to get tight to a wall/floor without cutting into it. Also you shouldn’t do a hard plunge as the video showed. A sweeping motion works best so the blade will not get excessively hot. I find this is one of the most valuable tool I have. Great video.
@@riffdex We bought our Multi-Tool from Harbor Freight - and it is fantastic. It’s corded, not battery powered. Has multi-speed, but like in the video, we always use on max. The half-moon blade is good on many surfaces - plastic, metal & wood.
I’m a flooring contractor that mainly install Tile and hardwoods. So I’m probably not the best person to ask about cheap blades. I use the Festool multi-tool. I like it best over Fien, Mikita, Dewalt(i’ve owned all in the past). Festool accept all the star lock style blades. I mainly buy Bosch blades. I love that most have a curve for cleaner cuts. Whether you are a hobbyist or in the trade, the most important thing is using the correct type of blade for the job. Example: if you are using a wood blade and hit a nail, then your blade is toast. You should have used a bimetal blade. But if you need to cut harden screw then fien has a perfect blade. Maybe for a hobbyist, I think imperial makes decent blades for the cheaper end of the scale.
Dude - there are many people on UA-cam with opinions and instructions, but not everyone makes and effective teacher or even good communicator. You are both of these. Thanks!
I always leave your videos an instant like the minute I start watching it. Mostly because I can tell you're a nice guy, and you always explain things well in a non-condescending manner thanks.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks, I always love tinkering with tools and fixing and building things. I'm a retired teacher and I know that good teaching involves, interest and knowledge in the subject, patience, good explanation and making the content interesting. You got all those ingredients in your videos thanks again
Another tip that I use frequently is attaching the blade at a 90 degree angle to the tool for better control of the tool. Try it, it works! As usual, always great content!
Nice, yeah I often set mine at 45. With materials like plywood it allows me to rest the tool smack down on the surface once a plunge is made, and then I just push and wiggle a little in order to keep going along the line I've drawn.
One of best advantages of the tool is the adjustable angle, no mention in the video… does this guy actually use one? Adjusting the angle allows you to use the head as the guide, and gives incredibly more control.
OMGaw! I applied most of the tips you gave and... WOW! I got a straight edge, no rough edges, and it went 10X faster! Scoring before cutting made a HUGE difference! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! You rock!! 😊❤😊
I'm an old man nearing retirement age and have very little knowledge of power tools. Your very smooth and informative presentation was a joy to watch, I'm a new subscriber!
Thank you, Mark! I’m working on an online course for my website (currently being rebuilt) that will explain everything to know about the 20 most important power tools. It should be live in July! 🙂
You have an educator's ability to describe not only what's true about a topic, but why it's true, leading to increased depth of understanding. Thank you for this video, and this channel.
Absolutely great video. I just got introduced to multi-tool cutting and these are terrific tips and things not to do. My first job was replacing a rotten piece of brick molding on my workshop door frame. Your video allowed me to replace just a foot of molding instead of the entire piece. Love your channel and all the "weekend warrior" tips and tricks.
I picked one up a while ago and never really liked it but it turns out, like most things, it was 90% user error. This video was super helpful! I’m much more excited to use this tool on some upcoming projects! Thanks!
I bought a multi-tool and took it to my shop and start practicing with it. I made all 6 mistakes and figured them out. Watching this let me know I am no special kind of doofus. I must be like a lot of folks🙂 Thanks for posting it.
Just splurged on the Milwaukee M18 Fuel OMT. Only played with it a few minutes but can already tell it's going to be one of my favorite tools ever. Tons of uses for a DIY home reno. One nice feature of the Milwaukee is that it doesn't have a trigger. You just turn it on. So no cramped fingers ever. You can adjust the speed with a dial or rely on the "auto" setting to keep the speed right.
It’s weird; I’m reading through the comments and no one is mentioning how awesome the oscillating m-t is as a sander. I’m a handyman and use my dewalt omt damn near everyday. Thanks as always THC
I use it as a corner cat sander along my random orbit sander. I used to have the small sanding shoe attachment but ever since I got the 3.5" attachment I'm not looking back.
Well. Talk about synchronicity. Im a librarian and will have to see about adding these to the library collection. They look like fun books. Honestly never thought to get a multi tool. 35 years of fixing stuff and have never used one.
Thank you, Science! I would love to see the books in libraries someday! Im working on approaching small publishers to do some construction-based books for kids as well. 🙂
It can take some finesse for this tool for sure. One of the most common uses for me has been for cutting casings and door jams when installing new flooring. Just use a scrap piece of the new floor as the guide block. Good luck with the book sales. They look great!
@@TheHonestCarpenter If you have tons of frames to undercut, a saw is really the way to go because of the speed and cost of oscillating tool blades. However, when I've got a couple frames I go right for the oscillating tool
I struggled a lot with my multi tool and learned I was making most of these mistakes. I applied what you said and it's made a huge difference. Thank you!
I just purchased a Worx 2.5 Amp AC Corded Multi Tool from Amazon (on sale today with Bag and 70 Piece Accessory kit) for $69.99 with a manufacturer's 3 year warranty. I probably will need more blades, so I ordered some from your link in this video and will begin a new bathroom reno project as soon as all of my tools arrive. Should be fun! Thanks for sharing your information with us.
Fantastic as always. Love my multitool it’s almost endless uses. I’ve had absolutely terrible luck with the walls tools lately, and so has many other people I work with, but their multi tool is great.
Most underrated usage is being able to lock the tool to always on as you cut. Not need to push the button for power. It automatically stays on! Great video!!
great video, I just bought one for the first time because we bought a fridge too big for the cabinet. I shaved a half inch off with a semi circular blade and used the battery as a guide under the lip! just like a router
Great tips, I will say that I think the the shallow pass back and forth technique is really only necessary when cutting through something that has another material behind it that you don't want to cut, (which is most of what the tool is good for admittedly) but if you're cutting all the way through something with air behind it (like cutting a rectangular hole on a wall for an outlet junction box) I like to score the cut line then plunge all the way through at one end and turn the saw at least 45 degrees so I can use the cutting edge and follow my line
Thanks Ethan. I don't have a need for this tool but I have seen it in use for specific jobs and it works well. I am going to have to find a project where I need one so I can justify to my wife why I bought it!
David…for 51yrs .. I have found out that it’s easier to get forgiveness than permission 👩🦰🤗 MAKING YOUR JOB EASIER AND SAFER just get the tools you need a little at a time 💚💚💚
I bought the original the only one made at the time Fein corded 20 years ago before all others copied it. You didn’t show it but I could use that thing with the blade sticking out sideways and it helped a lot because you could get a better grip on it working on different confined space that straight was not an option. You are definitely correct about the quality and price I’ll buy the cheap ones for wood, but for metal and tile only The expensive ones will work plus you could get sanding attachments for wood and for rugged surfaces. Thanks for the UA-cam I’ve been following you for several year’s
Great tips as usual on Honest Carpenter! The multi-tool/oscillating cutter/plunge cutter is one of the most valuable tools for a remodeling/repair contractor. I use mine for so many things almost every day. I just wish replacement blades weren't so darn expensive.
I have been buying my blades from Amazon in bulk packages. I try to focus on the blade type I use the most and toss the others that come with the package into my bag. I have found I use those odd blades sometime within a year.
I've got that exact tool and while I haven't needed to use it in a while 1 very useful thing that helped me get straight cuts, was to change the blade position so that it came off towards the corner rather than straight out the front. That way you also get more chip clear out.
I love my multi-tool. Here are a couple of tips from my experience: You can buy special anti-vibration gloves which are great when using bulky vibrating tools. I discovered them when I worked in the auto industry, as they are great at preventing pain and fatigue when working with a big impact for a long period of time. They also work great when using my multi-tool for a long period of time too. I find that in a lot of cases the round blades do not bind as much as the straight ones. They are really useful for certain types of cuts. The sanding block is great too. The triangle tip on them allows you to get into corners where an orbital sander can't get to. The quick change feature on the newer tools is great too, and being able to put any of the blades or sanding block at a 90 degree gives you some extra flexibility in tighter spaces too.
I have to say that I had never heard of the multi tool until I saw your video a few years ago. The battery system I use introduced the tool to the range and so I bought one, along with a very large set of various blades (fortunately). My first attempt at using it was...not good; I immediately bent the blade through using it at too slow a speed and slowly lowering the blade onto the wood. It juddered as it made contact and bent the blade. Two years or so later and it has become indispensable in my kit. It does the cuts that nothing else can do. It trims otherwise inaccessible areas, like the bottoms of doors without removing the doors, removing rotten parts to refit with new timber, without stripping the whole thing apart, and so on. I always now use it at full speed because low speeds cause it to grab and bind (when sawing). I also have scraper blades but have never used them, yet. I am a carpenter and tend to only use it for wood and PVC, though I also have metal cutting blades but I doubt I will ever use it for that. Come to think of it, the metal cutting blades would probably work well on PVC.
Great video as always! I love my multi-tool. I used the plunge cut ability to remove a rotted soffit on my house. I simple cut out the rotted area with a straight plunge cut from good wood to good wood and used a PVC board (another tip from this channel!!!) to fill in the gap. A little paint and it looks like new, no rot, and the PVC will outlast the rest of those boards! P.S. My 6 year old daughter loves "One Hot Spark" so far. We are 2/3 through it and read a chapter per night before she goes to bed. She already wants the next book! :)
That’s awesome, Josh!! I’m super pumped to hear the repair went well…and also that she’s enjoying book 1! I really appreciate you supporting the channel in so many ways-thanks for writing in to let me know this! 😄
No way!!!! You're a nerd like me? No wonder I immediately felt I could trust you! Thanks for the content. I appreciate being shown the best method for getting the job done but more importantly the reasons for doing it that way and possible consequences for not doing it that way.
I love your channel. Such good advice, so well provided. I'm pretty sure I was making all the mistakes with my multi-tool. And, I'm not sure why, but the fact that you also produce graphic novels makes me happy. You seem like such a nice fellow. Thanks!
Great Presentation, Very Concise Visual Demonstrating & Oral Instructions. Very Helpful Even To Folks Who Already Use Multi-Tools & Saws. Thank You Very Much. Subscribed & Will Be Checking Out More Of Your Videos.
What a great presentation. Thank you. I upgraded to a Flex tool so vibration is no longer an issue - seriously the vibration control is incredible but these tips are just fantastic. Thank you Ethan. Personally, my preference is buying the more expensive blades of Diablo because going through blade after blade on a job - really gets old.
I’ve got the gen 2 Kobalt with more vibration isolation. It’s got much less vibration than my 10 year old corded Fein. I’ve heard very very good things about the $220 Makita, but the expensive blades plus limited selection are keeping me back. I’ve been using mine a lot for scraping and gouging - many more blades for that in the old school mounting system. Also, I’m deeply offended by a Starlock blade that has a pin…come on, $220 and the blade is more work to change than my $99 store brand tool?
As a renovation tool is use the carbide metal blades for everything. There is always a surprise nail in the way. These tools are great for siding work. I have also used it as a carving tool when fitting pieces or cleaning up rot. I flip it over and draw it over the surface.
i have a dewalt and it is a beast cutting deck boards when your not replacing a whole board. also great for trimming down for a good fit or odd cuts. They are amazing tools
The only difference between a multi-tool and a rifle is that you don't need to hold your breath at the point of pulling the trigger ! Glad you said about using a utility knife for the first score, that's exactly what I do. Sometimes if possible I clamp an old straight edge to start the cut. Can't remember where from but I bought a ruck of blades from a Japanese company and they are so good and were a bit more expensive but so much cheaper in the long run. I think your tutorial on this subject was absolutely spot on, as usual. You are indeed a good presenter with well grounded knowledge and experience. I wish you well. Cheers.
As usual - I love your video and information provided. For a novice like me - I totally appreciate these "what not to do" points of instruction! (And I love the sawdust box apparatus cover for your miter saw in the background! Do you have an instruction video on how you made it?}
Thank you, Isabel! Unfortunately I haven’t made a video for the miter saw dust hood because I kind of knocked it together on short notice…but I’ll try to discuss it a little in a future video!
If you suffer from carpel tunnel, wearing some winter gloves helps to cut down on vibration transfer to your hands. Such gloves tend to reduce your dexterity, so you may want to use guide like Ethan shows in the video. It may sound stupid, but it lets you hold the tool for a lot longer before you need to put it down for a break. This trick worked great when I had to use an angle grinder with a sanding flap disc to remove old rust and paint from 12 feet of twisted iron stiles on the front porch stair railing.
These blades are fairly easy to sharpen if you have a rotary tool like a pneumatic die grinder or Dremel. Using an abrasive cutting disc, lower slowly in between teeth at a very shallow angle, switching the angle back and forth with every gap. The cuts won't be a clean as factory, but it can help extend the life of your blades and produce far less waste just tossing them. To get the teeth to all line up again, pinch the blade in a vice or between two pieces of wood with the shortest teeth just barely poking out of the top and file them back with a bastard or hand held belt sander before sharpening.
Thanks for this - another really helpful video. Would you consider doing one on the different types of blades and their applications please? Thanks again 👍
Great video. I now know the mistakes we make when we cut our block for pinewood derby. Could you please make a video on how to use the multi tool for cutting a pinewood Derby wood block?
All good points. I actually tell new people to score that line first before going like you said, but unless I need to make a square cut, I always make a back bevel… and you described that at the end of the video… right as I was writing this. 😊
Hola! 🖐I could have used this info last year when I purchased my Harbor Freight Chicago Electric multitool. I went cheap since I had never used one before and did not expect to use it much after this project. Boy was I mistaken, this tool is awesome!!!🤩I definitely learned the hard way and basically did all of the mistakes you mention above before I "got the hang" of the proper use for this tool. I would say that the blade makes all the difference and I would agree that the Diablo blades kick butt. Another great video, thanks Ethan. 👏Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
@@TheHonestCarpenter ...and going and going! 😂I'm guessing most of us think I'll buy cheap and replace then we get "attached" and won't let go before we get to replacing with the "better" brand. At least that's what has happened to me more than once. 😉
I was trying to think how to discribe the "GUIDE BLOCK" metheod to you when you said it yourself! One of my favourite DeWalt tools! CHEERS from Canadian Westcoast!
As I've gotten older I have more trouble holding and guiding a circular saw safely and accurately. I finally bought one of these and it's much easier to handle but have to admit my learning curve is pretty big. But I haven't been doing everything wrong, just several! 😉 I don't think you talked about one thing I'm still not sure of. Do you place the blade on the wood first or start it first when beginning to cut. I think it's probably the same as a reciprocating saw but not sure.
One way to think about it - most brands of these tools don’t have a pull trigger. They have a switch that is stiff and out of the way. So the majority of them you pretty much can’t start them with the blade touching anything because the switch will make you move them turning it on.
I made every one of those mistakes replacing portions of boards on a porch. I finally got the hang of it but not with out sacrificing some boards. Thanks for all the tips !!
Never thought I needed one till I used one. They do things no other saw can even begin to do. I used to use a metal blade in a sawzall and tried to make neat cuts in trim pieces or cabinet carcasses. The chatter and stabbing action always ruined the final appearance of the work. And I even considered myself a surgeon with a sawzall from years of use and not having an alternative tool. Used in appropriate manner and situations a multi tool is vastly superior, not faster but superior none the less.
Great tips, thanks! A couple things not addressed in either video: 1) Starting cuts. Do you start on full speed before making contact with the material? And 2) Are the slow speeds useful for anything?
Slow speeds are good when using it as a detail sander but higher speeds are better for let's say paint removal, I also like using slower speeds when cutting through drywall (for better control) and plastic; some materials like ABS can melt and leave burrs you'll need to sand or remove afterwards
I love your videos they are so educational and there is so much information there. But i have never seen you talk about the reciprocating saw. Could you possibly do one on that?
Amazing video I have a multi tool and I’m learning out to use it this video helped me a lot I was making all the mistakes … now I will use the tool more effectively thank you honest carpenter
Great video! I received a multi tool as part of a Ryobi package of tools and was wondering what it was for. It and my driver are the only tools i haven't yet used. Glad i saw this video! Are always, your explanations are concise and easy to understand. Thanks! P. S. I have serious workshop envy! 😉 I only have a table outside and have to run power cords to the house, but I manage. I need to build a little overhang so i can work in inclement weather, but I'm not sure where to start..
Also the multitool cuts much better if you let the saw do the work and not put much pressure on it. I may or may not of had this problem at first. Multitool fun fact: They were invented to remove casts (broken bones) without cutting the patient. I'm going to check out those generic blades the name brand ones do not last long enough to justify the price these days.
I love my multi tool I got it a few months ago. I’m re-doing the floors in my bathroom with it but can you explain why my darn blades seem to be going dull so quickly? Like I feel like it’s after just a few passes, I don’t get it. I have tried Bosch, Dewalt, and Diablo blades and they all seem to do this. It’s really annoying and expensive. I’m making an effort to not hit any embedded nails also. I have a brushless Ryobi Multi tool btw.
The blades and teeth are very thin and are prone to dulling with pressure and/or heat. Don't push hard on the tool during cutting. Allow the blade to do the work. Keep the blade moving so it doesn't build up heat. If doing a deep plunge cut in one spot give the blade a break and let it cool. Because they are so thin the blades are also very easy to sharpen. If you find your blade dulling just use a small triangle file between the teeth to restore the points on the tips.
nice vid. All this time of popping into the channel and I just not hear about the kids books. That will be a fantastic b-day gift for my little book worm. Thank you.
I did a shallow birdsmouth on a 2x4 with guide block. It works extremely well. I would use guide block whenever possible just for better quality than my freehand.
I would like to see tips on the small guide roller attachment that you have on your oscillating tool picture. I have one. But don't know if it is worth using one. I have not seen any videos on the use of one. I love all other aspects of it I forget about the roller . Most All my cuts don't need to be that precise.
It can help to use the blade not straight-out, but angled to one of the other positions. I undercut the skirting board (baseboard) in my bedroom to lay hardwood flooring without removing the skirting (would have damaged the plaster badly). By putting it at 45 degrees, I was able to have both hands in contact with the skirting, giving loads of support - my hand on the front gave me loads of control of depth, and it was like cutting butter.
Great video as always! I've been shopping around for a multitool but haven't worked with one often before so I wasn't sure what to look for. This gave me some valuable tips not only for buying but obviously also for when I finally start using my own! God bless!
I did the research and test drove all three Milwaukee 18v(don’t get 12v the battery falls out) Dewalt (like the video) Fein (corded) The Milwaukee has the same power as a corded fein, and the auto speed option does the thinking for me, having dewalts trigger might sounds good but I was always second guessing myself therefore I wasn’t concentrating on accuracy , think of trigger option it like a pen you always have to pump for ink ….nah …just supply the continuous ink while I work on motion in my handwriting
@@paulpham9216 Thanks a lot! I'm from South Africa so we have a VERY nice Bosch option available here 400W GOP40-30. It's corded but has an exceptional reputation. Pricey, though.
Awesome tips as always Ethan. What are your thoughts on the depth guide? I have an exact deWalt that you have and deWalt has a depth guide for it which once helped me avoid cutting too deep while giving me some extra "resting" support on the piece, but your tip on maintaining the correct posture is still very much valid.
Thanks Arash! Honestly, I’m yet to use the depth guide, because I got so used to not having one 😆 But I could see it being very helpful for that purpose!
I have been using the same Dewalt multitool like yours for about 4 years (I own 2 Dewalt multitools to replace the Milwaukee ones I owned). This is my goto tool everyday. I have done a lot of research into the blades. The el-cheapo blades you are using is expensive long term cheap up front but the amount far surpasses the the upfront cost of a better blade. For most cuts other than drywall I use the Imperial blade iBoat 360 metal & more blade Titanium coated carbide blade. it will cut most anything and even when the teeth are all but gone the titanium coating will still chew through grout with out cutting into the tile. The japanese style wood blades are worthless as the teeth wear out supper fast and if you encounter anything metal the blade is instantly done (a waste of $11.00). iBoat 360 blades in bulk (50 blades) will run about $9.50/blade)
I use the same blades that you do. I ordered a 50 pcs pack with a variety of blades , for $45, as they do come in handy for various situations. Imho they last as long if not longer when used properly.
I have the older dremel multimax. I have been having trouble with the nut loosening very quickly during use.Have any ideas what I am doing wrong or what I need to do to fix this issue.It is so frustrating!!
Can the Dewalt tool be locked on or off, or do you need to use the trigger? The Milwaukee version has a speed setting and an on/off switch. It's useful to be able to hold the tool in whatever way necessary without having to worry about squeezing the trigger. I'm an electrical apprentice so I don't use my multitool as often as my other powertools, but when I need it it always comes in clutch.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
Thank you for this video! I'm a 69 y/o female, just finished power washing my house, getting ready to paint it. Bought a Makita circular saw, and a nailgun and 16 ga nails for it. Discovering this multitool saved the day for me. I have sections of trim that are rotted and broken away. And then there are sections that are just fine. With this tool I can cut away the bad sections and replace it with new trim, patch the seams with either wood filler or paintable caulking. Save a ton of money on the trim, which is Hardie trim, and at $20 per 12 ft, adds up quick.
8:08 i havent seen anyone cut their cord but i have seen guards fail though. Its rare that i have to cut with a corded circular saw but remember not to trust that the safety features wont malfunction. Its those kind of little habits that can keep you from getting hurt. If you take care of your tools and respect them, they will always do what you need them to do. If you dont, they are likely to remind you in their own way. Even multi tools, i tried to notch a small piece of base holding in in one hand and the multitool in the other. I tried to force it to cut faster and it bit the wood and nicked my thumb. Not the worst thing to happen but i think that tool was politely reminding me that wood is tougher than me and it cuts wood all the time. Not only safety but they last longer too. I have had one multitool for a year and a half now and a guy i work with broke two and gave up buying them after the third got stolen. I kept telling him to let the tool do the work and even showed him but he was either unwilling or unable to learn. I dont get why but i have had some helpers who just couldnt learn. Im mostly joking but sometimes it feels like im in that video where the American soldiers are trying to teach the Afghan army how to do jumping jacks. Anyways, sorry for ranting. I promise im not a lunatic. Well i hope not anyway.
Good video! I think your #2 mistake is only partly right. I have at times found it to work well to get started and plunge in deeply in one side of the cut, then tilt the saw/blade and begin tracking the line, cutting full depth with the blade embedded and being guided by the existing cut kerf...sort of like having a guide block. Works especially well on softer materials like moldings, drywall or thinner soft woods/plywoods, where you can still provide some measure of twisting to adapt to drift.
How is the wobble? Eg, since wheels seem to be narrow, does the luggage shift around alot and throw off center? How about a flight of steps? How is it 1 yr later - would you buy again or buy integrated wheeled luggage?
Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes
I've been a carpenter/woodworker for over 35 years, everything from new home construction, remodels, home improvements, cabinet shops, boats, fine art furniture, set building, and so on - I used a corded version of one of these things last year while in Georgia building a bar in a pals home. It blew my mind, I still have and am using tools I purchased 30 years ago (I still use the 7-1/4" Makita circular saw I bought in 1987) - I finally decided to start upgrading my tool to the Makita 18/36v system, amazing stuff. Makita has a subcompact line that are all black in color so I've purchased a couple of those tools including the multi tool and used it on a job for the first time last week, it's like a surgical tool with very little vibration at all. I'm super stoked - Even bought the dual battery 7-1/4" circular saw - SO nice to "cut the cord" FINALLY - The work goes by faster with a lot less aggravation from dealing with cords
I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work
We’ll said, Michael! I’ll have to check into the makita subcompacts!
I think I realized why I like this guy so much... he manages to condense complicated processes into an intuitive, conversational, never patronizing, lesson.
He would have made an amazing teacher.
Whether you've never touched this tool in your life, or you've used it 1000x, he just perfectly (in a few min) explained all the things to consider bf starting and fixes for every common problem.
Now I'm far from a pro, but I like to approach every problem/ new skill this way. Plan in advance, attempt to execute, but when complications inevitably arise EXAMINE WHY. Try to learn from the experience and minimize that error going forward. As long as you're always improving, you should end up in a good place ; )
Way to go Honest! Love all your content.
He is a teacher
I watched this short video before buying my multi-tool and applied all the tips to my first cut - went super smooth, saved a ton of time and wood, and made a pretty good wooden fence posts at first try. Awesome guy!
My dad passed and you make a great tool guru. Like your lists and delivery. As a journalist, I especially like your refusal to waste words!
I’ve been using a multi tool for years. Here are a few useful tips: If you need a precise straight line, use a blade with a curve(He showed one from diablo ). This prevent the chatter you get with a long straight blade. There are ones that look like a half circle to get tight to a wall/floor without cutting into it. Also you shouldn’t do a hard plunge as the video showed. A sweeping motion works best so the blade will not get excessively hot. I find this is one of the most valuable tool I have. Great video.
Yeah. Forget about those super wide blades. Those things are all over the place
What brand do you recommend for a hobbyist? Something nice and cheap
@@riffdex We bought our Multi-Tool from Harbor Freight - and it is fantastic. It’s corded, not battery powered. Has multi-speed, but like in the video, we always use on max. The half-moon blade is good on many surfaces - plastic, metal & wood.
I’m a flooring contractor that mainly install Tile and hardwoods. So I’m probably not the best person to ask about cheap blades. I use the Festool multi-tool. I like it best over Fien, Mikita, Dewalt(i’ve owned all in the past). Festool accept all the star lock style blades. I mainly buy Bosch blades. I love that most have a curve for cleaner cuts.
Whether you are a hobbyist or in the trade, the most important thing is using the correct type of blade for the job. Example: if you are using a wood blade and hit a nail, then your blade is toast. You should have used a bimetal blade. But if you need to cut harden screw then fien has a perfect blade.
Maybe for a hobbyist, I think imperial makes decent blades for the cheaper end of the scale.
@@riffdex Hardt multi tool from Walmart is a surprisingly good option
Dude - there are many people on UA-cam with opinions and instructions, but not everyone makes and effective teacher or even good communicator. You are both of these. Thanks!
I always leave your videos an instant like the minute I start watching it. Mostly because I can tell you're a nice guy, and you always explain things well in a non-condescending manner thanks.
Thank you, Joel! I appreciate you watching and supporting! 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks, I always love tinkering with tools and fixing and building things. I'm a retired teacher and I know that good teaching involves, interest and knowledge in the subject, patience, good explanation and making the content interesting. You got all those ingredients in your videos thanks again
The WHY do you leave???
@@toriless Probably means 'leaves a like' [thumbs up]
Another tip that I use frequently is attaching the blade at a 90 degree angle to the tool for better control of the tool. Try it, it works! As usual, always great content!
Yes!!
Good tip, will try this next time
I do mine at a 45, have for years. Rarely have the blade sticking straight out
Nice, yeah I often set mine at 45. With materials like plywood it allows me to rest the tool smack down on the surface once a plunge is made, and then I just push and wiggle a little in order to keep going along the line I've drawn.
One of best advantages of the tool is the adjustable angle, no mention in the video… does this guy actually use one? Adjusting the angle allows you to use the head as the guide, and gives incredibly more control.
OMGaw! I applied most of the tips you gave and... WOW! I got a straight edge, no rough edges, and it went 10X faster! Scoring before cutting made a HUGE difference! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! You rock!! 😊❤😊
I'm an old man nearing retirement age and have very little knowledge of power tools. Your very smooth and informative presentation was a joy to watch, I'm a new subscriber!
Thank you, Mark! I’m working on an online course for my website (currently being rebuilt) that will explain everything to know about the 20 most important power tools. It should be live in July! 🙂
You have an educator's ability to describe not only what's true about a topic, but why it's true, leading to increased depth of understanding. Thank you for this video, and this channel.
Thanks so much, Aaron! I greatly appreciate the positive feedback 😄
Absolutely great video. I just got introduced to multi-tool cutting and these are terrific tips and things not to do. My first job was replacing a rotten piece of brick molding on my workshop door frame. Your video allowed me to replace just a foot of molding instead of the entire piece. Love your channel and all the "weekend warrior" tips and tricks.
Thanks Gary! I’m really glad they’re helpful 🙂
I picked one up a while ago and never really liked it but it turns out, like most things, it was 90% user error. This video was super helpful! I’m much more excited to use this tool on some upcoming projects! Thanks!
I bought a multi-tool and took it to my shop and start practicing with it. I made all 6 mistakes and figured them out. Watching this let me know I am no special kind of doofus. I must be like a lot of folks🙂 Thanks for posting it.
Just splurged on the Milwaukee M18 Fuel OMT. Only played with it a few minutes but can already tell it's going to be one of my favorite tools ever. Tons of uses for a DIY home reno. One nice feature of the Milwaukee is that it doesn't have a trigger. You just turn it on. So no cramped fingers ever. You can adjust the speed with a dial or rely on the "auto" setting to keep the speed right.
It’s weird; I’m reading through the comments and no one is mentioning how awesome the oscillating m-t is as a sander. I’m a handyman and use my dewalt omt damn near everyday. Thanks as always THC
Beat me to it. I bought the sanding block attachment for this reason and sand paper when I picked up the multi tool at the store.
I use it as a grinder them sander but with a Dremel not these.
Use my M12 Fuel as a sander as much as a saw. Super handy and effective.
@@jamesgoens3531 Ditto.
I use it as a corner cat sander along my random orbit sander. I used to have the small sanding shoe attachment but ever since I got the 3.5" attachment I'm not looking back.
Well. Talk about synchronicity. Im a librarian and will have to see about adding these to the library collection. They look like fun books. Honestly never thought to get a multi tool. 35 years of fixing stuff and have never used one.
Thank you, Science! I would love to see the books in libraries someday! Im working on approaching small publishers to do some construction-based books for kids as well. 🙂
It can take some finesse for this tool for sure. One of the most common uses for me has been for cutting casings and door jams when installing new flooring. Just use a scrap piece of the new floor as the guide block. Good luck with the book sales. They look great!
Thanks Regular Guy! That’s one of the best uses for it-replaced the terrible old jamb cutter!
@@TheHonestCarpenter It’s also really good for cutting into drywall for adding new electrical boxes, etc.
@@TheHonestCarpenter If you have tons of frames to undercut, a saw is really the way to go because of the speed and cost of oscillating tool blades. However, when I've got a couple frames I go right for the oscillating tool
I purchased Milwaukee m18 multi tool mindlessly without knowing what to do. your blog is very helpful to me. Lots of love from Pakistan.🇵🇰
Well put. Thank you. You've saved me a whole year of learning from my own mistakes..
Thanks for watching, Dana! I try to make all the mistakes first on everyone else’s behalf 😆
I struggled a lot with my multi tool and learned I was making most of these mistakes. I applied what you said and it's made a huge difference. Thank you!
That’s awesome to hear, Sam! 😄
Thank you. This is super helpful to use newbies. I didn't know this tool existed a month ago. Thanks for making these videos.
I just purchased a Worx 2.5 Amp AC Corded Multi Tool from Amazon (on sale today with Bag and 70 Piece Accessory kit) for $69.99 with a manufacturer's 3 year warranty. I probably will need more blades, so I ordered some from your link in this video and will begin a new bathroom reno project as soon as all of my tools arrive. Should be fun! Thanks for sharing your information with us.
Fantastic as always. Love my multitool it’s almost endless uses. I’ve had absolutely terrible luck with the walls tools lately, and so has many other people I work with, but their multi tool is great.
Most underrated usage is being able to lock the tool to always on as you cut. Not need to push the button for power. It automatically stays on! Great video!!
great video, I just bought one for the first time because we bought a fridge too big for the cabinet. I shaved a half inch off with a semi circular blade and used the battery as a guide under the lip! just like a router
Great tips, I will say that I think the the shallow pass back and forth technique is really only necessary when cutting through something that has another material behind it that you don't want to cut, (which is most of what the tool is good for admittedly) but if you're cutting all the way through something with air behind it (like cutting a rectangular hole on a wall for an outlet junction box) I like to score the cut line then plunge all the way through at one end and turn the saw at least 45 degrees so I can use the cutting edge and follow my line
Thanks Ethan. I don't have a need for this tool but I have seen it in use for specific jobs and it works well. I am going to have to find a project where I need one so I can justify to my wife why I bought it!
They’re awesome, David! And even a budget model will get you really far 🙂
David…for 51yrs .. I have found out that it’s easier to get forgiveness than permission 👩🦰🤗
MAKING YOUR JOB EASIER AND SAFER just get the tools you need a little at a time 💚💚💚
One of the most helpful videos I have seen in a long time
I bought the original the only one made at the time Fein corded 20 years ago before all others copied it. You didn’t show it but I could use that thing with the blade sticking out sideways and it helped a lot because you could get a better grip on it working on different confined space that straight was not an option. You are definitely correct about the quality and price I’ll buy the cheap ones for wood, but for metal and tile only The expensive ones will work plus you could get sanding attachments for wood and for rugged surfaces. Thanks for the UA-cam I’ve been following you for several year’s
Great tips as usual on Honest Carpenter! The multi-tool/oscillating cutter/plunge cutter is one of the most valuable tools for a remodeling/repair contractor. I use mine for so many things almost every day. I just wish replacement blades weren't so darn expensive.
I have been buying my blades from Amazon in bulk packages. I try to focus on the blade type I use the most and toss the others that come with the package into my bag. I have found I use those odd blades sometime within a year.
I've got that exact tool and while I haven't needed to use it in a while 1 very useful thing that helped me get straight cuts, was to change the blade position so that it came off towards the corner rather than straight out the front. That way you also get more chip clear out.
I love my multi-tool. Here are a couple of tips from my experience:
You can buy special anti-vibration gloves which are great when using bulky vibrating tools. I discovered them when I worked in the auto industry, as they are great at preventing pain and fatigue when working with a big impact for a long period of time. They also work great when using my multi-tool for a long period of time too.
I find that in a lot of cases the round blades do not bind as much as the straight ones. They are really useful for certain types of cuts.
The sanding block is great too. The triangle tip on them allows you to get into corners where an orbital sander can't get to.
The quick change feature on the newer tools is great too, and being able to put any of the blades or sanding block at a 90 degree gives you some extra flexibility in tighter spaces too.
I have to say that I had never heard of the multi tool until I saw your video a few years ago. The battery system I use introduced the tool to the range and so I bought one, along with a very large set of various blades (fortunately). My first attempt at using it was...not good; I immediately bent the blade through using it at too slow a speed and slowly lowering the blade onto the wood. It juddered as it made contact and bent the blade.
Two years or so later and it has become indispensable in my kit. It does the cuts that nothing else can do. It trims otherwise inaccessible areas, like the bottoms of doors without removing the doors, removing rotten parts to refit with new timber, without stripping the whole thing apart, and so on.
I always now use it at full speed because low speeds cause it to grab and bind (when sawing). I also have scraper blades but have never used them, yet. I am a carpenter and tend to only use it for wood and PVC, though I also have metal cutting blades but I doubt I will ever use it for that. Come to think of it, the metal cutting blades would probably work well on PVC.
Thanks for the advice sir, I got a multi tool for Christmas and I’ll try to implement these ideas.
Great video as always! I love my multi-tool. I used the plunge cut ability to remove a rotted soffit on my house. I simple cut out the rotted area with a straight plunge cut from good wood to good wood and used a PVC board (another tip from this channel!!!) to fill in the gap. A little paint and it looks like new, no rot, and the PVC will outlast the rest of those boards! P.S. My 6 year old daughter loves "One Hot Spark" so far. We are 2/3 through it and read a chapter per night before she goes to bed. She already wants the next book! :)
That’s awesome, Josh!! I’m super pumped to hear the repair went well…and also that she’s enjoying book 1! I really appreciate you supporting the channel in so many ways-thanks for writing in to let me know this! 😄
I use one of these tools daily for my work in van conversion building just found your channel lately and I find it extremely helpful. Great content!
Thank you, Sean, that’s great to hear! 🙂
No way!!!! You're a nerd like me? No wonder I immediately felt I could trust you! Thanks for the content. I appreciate being shown the best method for getting the job done but more importantly the reasons for doing it that way and possible consequences for not doing it that way.
I love your channel. Such good advice, so well provided. I'm pretty sure I was making all the mistakes with my multi-tool. And, I'm not sure why, but the fact that you also produce graphic novels makes me happy. You seem like such a nice fellow. Thanks!
Hey, thanks Mary Kay! I really appreciate you watching and supporting the channel! 😄
Great Presentation, Very Concise Visual Demonstrating & Oral Instructions.
Very Helpful Even To Folks Who Already Use Multi-Tools & Saws.
Thank You Very Much.
Subscribed & Will Be Checking Out More Of Your Videos.
What a great presentation. Thank you. I upgraded to a Flex tool so vibration is no longer an issue - seriously the vibration control is incredible but these tips are just fantastic. Thank you Ethan. Personally, my preference is buying the more expensive blades of Diablo because going through blade after blade on a job - really gets old.
Thanks Dave! I’ve seen the Flexes-I’ll have to check them out!
Pretty sure his name is Ethan. Idk who Nate is 🤔🤔
I’ve got the gen 2 Kobalt with more vibration isolation. It’s got much less vibration than my 10 year old corded Fein.
I’ve heard very very good things about the $220 Makita, but the expensive blades plus limited selection are keeping me back. I’ve been using mine a lot for scraping and gouging - many more blades for that in the old school mounting system. Also, I’m deeply offended by a Starlock blade that has a pin…come on, $220 and the blade is more work to change than my $99 store brand tool?
@@gf2e The Flex has a lever and I just lock it in place. Very easy.
@@sammiller2249 Oops. Ya I corrected that!
As a renovation tool is use the carbide metal blades for everything. There is always a surprise nail in the way. These tools are great for siding work. I have also used it as a carving tool when fitting pieces or cleaning up rot. I flip it over and draw it over the surface.
i have a dewalt and it is a beast cutting deck boards when your not replacing a whole board. also great for trimming down for a good fit or odd cuts. They are amazing tools
The only difference between a multi-tool and a rifle is that you don't need to hold your breath at the point of pulling the trigger !
Glad you said about using a utility knife for the first score, that's exactly what I do. Sometimes if possible I clamp an old straight edge to start the cut. Can't remember where from but I bought a ruck of blades from a Japanese company and they are so good and were a bit more expensive but so much cheaper in the long run. I think your tutorial on this subject was absolutely spot on, as usual. You are indeed a good presenter with well grounded knowledge and experience. I wish you well. Cheers.
Thank you very very much for the video. I am novice with the mooltitiools. I watch this video and learned hot to use it in the wood. Excellent video!!
I've been cutting with my multi tol for years and learnt loads from this. Thanks.
As usual - I love your video and information provided. For a novice like me - I totally appreciate these "what not to do" points of instruction! (And I love the sawdust box apparatus cover for your miter saw in the background! Do you have an instruction video on how you made it?}
Thank you, Isabel! Unfortunately I haven’t made a video for the miter saw dust hood because I kind of knocked it together on short notice…but I’ll try to discuss it a little in a future video!
Another video that makes me glad I subscribed months ago. This is one of the most useful sites on UA-cam for me.
If you suffer from carpel tunnel, wearing some winter gloves helps to cut down on vibration transfer to your hands. Such gloves tend to reduce your dexterity, so you may want to use guide like Ethan shows in the video. It may sound stupid, but it lets you hold the tool for a lot longer before you need to put it down for a break. This trick worked great when I had to use an angle grinder with a sanding flap disc to remove old rust and paint from 12 feet of twisted iron stiles on the front porch stair railing.
Fantastic video! Short, to the point and packed full of pro tips. Thank you!
These blades are fairly easy to sharpen if you have a rotary tool like a pneumatic die grinder or Dremel. Using an abrasive cutting disc, lower slowly in between teeth at a very shallow angle, switching the angle back and forth with every gap. The cuts won't be a clean as factory, but it can help extend the life of your blades and produce far less waste just tossing them.
To get the teeth to all line up again, pinch the blade in a vice or between two pieces of wood with the shortest teeth just barely poking out of the top and file them back with a bastard or hand held belt sander before sharpening.
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Thanks for this - another really helpful video. Would you consider doing one on the different types of blades and their applications please? Thanks again 👍
Great ADVICE as usual , just bought my FIRST multi tool ❤ 👍
Great video. I now know the mistakes we make when we cut our block for pinewood derby. Could you please make a video on how to use the multi tool for cutting a pinewood Derby wood block?
This is going to help me a lot when I replace sections of hardwood floor.
All good points. I actually tell new people to score that line first before going like you said, but unless I need to make a square cut, I always make a back bevel… and you described that at the end of the video… right as I was writing this. 😊
Thanks Morgan! I was determined to wedge that tactic in there. I used it all the time on trim interruptions! 😁
I've got a Fein corded and a DeWalt XR. They're 2 of the most useful tools in my shop.
Hola! 🖐I could have used this info last year when I purchased my Harbor Freight Chicago Electric multitool. I went cheap since I had never used one before and did not expect to use it much after this project. Boy was I mistaken, this tool is awesome!!!🤩I definitely learned the hard way and basically did all of the mistakes you mention above before I "got the hang" of the proper use for this tool. I would say that the blade makes all the difference and I would agree that the Diablo blades kick butt. Another great video, thanks Ethan. 👏Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Thanks Grampies! I want to try that Chicago electric-I have a corded drill from them that just keeps going and going 😆
@@TheHonestCarpenter ...and going and going! 😂I'm guessing most of us think I'll buy cheap and replace then we get "attached" and won't let go before we get to replacing with the "better" brand. At least that's what has happened to me more than once. 😉
I was trying to think how to discribe the "GUIDE BLOCK" metheod to you when you said it yourself! One of my favourite DeWalt tools! CHEERS from Canadian Westcoast!
Never used one until I saw your last video. Used it on my remodel and it was a game changer. Thanks!
Thanks for a great education on the multi tool.
As I've gotten older I have more trouble holding and guiding a circular saw safely and accurately. I finally bought one of these and it's much easier to handle but have to admit my learning curve is pretty big. But I haven't been doing everything wrong, just several! 😉 I don't think you talked about one thing I'm still not sure of. Do you place the blade on the wood first or start it first when beginning to cut. I think it's probably the same as a reciprocating saw but not sure.
Start the tool first then apply to the material you're cutting... gently.
@@ST-0311 thanks!
One way to think about it - most brands of these tools don’t have a pull trigger. They have a switch that is stiff and out of the way. So the majority of them you pretty much can’t start them with the blade touching anything because the switch will make you move them turning it on.
I made every one of those mistakes replacing portions of boards on a porch. I finally got the hang of it but not with out sacrificing some boards. Thanks for all the tips !!
Ah, doing the same now, and making the same mistakes !
Double sided tape works great for guide blocks, particularly for difficult surfaces. Don’t forget diamond blades for tile.
Oh thank you! I have some!
Thank you for the helpful tips. I like that you show the utility and techniqes in a very simple way.
Never thought I needed one till I used one. They do things no other saw can even begin to do. I used to use a metal blade in a sawzall and tried to make neat cuts in trim pieces or cabinet carcasses. The chatter and stabbing action always ruined the final appearance of the work. And I even considered myself a surgeon with a sawzall from years of use and not having an alternative tool. Used in appropriate manner and situations a multi tool is vastly superior, not faster but superior none the less.
Great tips, thanks! A couple things not addressed in either video: 1) Starting cuts. Do you start on full speed before making contact with the material? And 2) Are the slow speeds useful for anything?
Slow speeds are good when using it as a detail sander but higher speeds are better for let's say paint removal, I also like using slower speeds when cutting through drywall (for better control) and plastic; some materials like ABS can melt and leave burrs you'll need to sand or remove afterwards
I love your videos they are so educational and there is so much information there. But i have never seen you talk about the reciprocating saw. Could you possibly do one on that?
Thank you, Stanley! I will tackle it soon 🙂
Amazing video I have a multi tool and I’m learning out to use it this video helped me a lot I was making all the mistakes … now I will use the tool more effectively thank you honest carpenter
Had no idea that this dude wrote kids books. It's cool to learn that people are multi-talented.
Thank you, oogrooq! I’m hoping to do some construction-related books for kids too, if I can find a good publishing partner 🙂
I know. I loved him in Cobra Kai
Multi-toolented one might say...
Great video! I received a multi tool as part of a Ryobi package of tools and was wondering what it was for. It and my driver are the only tools i haven't yet used. Glad i saw this video! Are always, your explanations are concise and easy to understand. Thanks!
P. S. I have serious workshop envy! 😉 I only have a table outside and have to run power cords to the house, but I manage. I need to build a little overhang so i can work in inclement weather, but I'm not sure where to start..
These are some solid tips. I'm somewhat new to oscillating multitools so tips help. So far I'm a fan but I need more experience using them.
Great video. I had a project that I needed to cut into a wall and I've been putting it off. I'm glad I put it off, I learned something today.
I love this tool! My 2nd favorite, period. I make straight and curvy cuts with it and it's the only simple option many times for a carpenter.
I agree, malta!
Also the multitool cuts much better if you let the saw do the work and not put much pressure on it. I may or may not of had this problem at first. Multitool fun fact: They were invented to remove casts (broken bones) without cutting the patient. I'm going to check out those generic blades the name brand ones do not last long enough to justify the price these days.
Just like chef's knife, it is all technique not pressure
Is it a special blade for the casts?
@@strizzy239 I would think so but even a wood cutting Multi-tool blade wont cut you unless you do something drastic
Best tool ever. I remodel homes and primarily use this and my drill.
Thank you! I've been having issues with working my multi tool
I love my multi tool I got it a few months ago. I’m re-doing the floors in my bathroom with it but can you explain why my darn blades seem to be going dull so quickly? Like I feel like it’s after just a few passes, I don’t get it. I have tried Bosch, Dewalt, and Diablo blades and they all seem to do this. It’s really annoying and expensive. I’m making an effort to not hit any embedded nails also. I have a brushless Ryobi Multi tool btw.
The blades and teeth are very thin and are prone to dulling with pressure and/or heat.
Don't push hard on the tool during cutting. Allow the blade to do the work.
Keep the blade moving so it doesn't build up heat.
If doing a deep plunge cut in one spot give the blade a break and let it cool.
Because they are so thin the blades are also very easy to sharpen. If you find your blade dulling just use a small triangle file between the teeth to restore the points on the tips.
nice vid. All this time of popping into the channel and I just not hear about the kids books. That will be a fantastic b-day gift for my little book worm. Thank you.
I like the trigger on the XR dewalt. I need more practice just really handy when you gotta make weird cuts at weird angles when a saw wont fit.
I did a shallow birdsmouth on a 2x4 with guide block. It works extremely well. I would use guide block whenever possible just for better quality than my freehand.
It’s a great method!
I would like to see tips on the small guide roller attachment that you have on your oscillating tool picture. I have one. But don't know if it is worth using one. I have not seen any videos on the use of one. I love all other aspects of it I forget about the roller . Most All my cuts don't need to be that precise.
It can help to use the blade not straight-out, but angled to one of the other positions. I undercut the skirting board (baseboard) in my bedroom to lay hardwood flooring without removing the skirting (would have damaged the plaster badly). By putting it at 45 degrees, I was able to have both hands in contact with the skirting, giving loads of support - my hand on the front gave me loads of control of depth, and it was like cutting butter.
Keeping the blade moving to reduce heat build up is really important. Heat makes dull blades (and burnt wood).
Did I mention that I really like the neatness and organization of your shop?
Thanks Martha! I’m glad to finally have an organized shop/studio 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter I learned the importance of organizing the tools when I worked in a bike shop. Time is money.
I also noticed that 🤔👍ITS EASIER AND MORE PRODUCTIVE 🤗
Great video as always! I've been shopping around for a multitool but haven't worked with one often before so I wasn't sure what to look for. This gave me some valuable tips not only for buying but obviously also for when I finally start using my own! God bless!
I did the research and test drove all three Milwaukee 18v(don’t get 12v the battery falls out)
Dewalt (like the video)
Fein (corded)
The Milwaukee has the same power as a corded fein, and the auto speed option does the thinking for me, having dewalts trigger might sounds good but I was always second guessing myself therefore I wasn’t concentrating on accuracy , think of trigger option it like a pen you always have to pump for ink ….nah …just supply the continuous ink while I work on motion in my handwriting
@@paulpham9216 Thanks a lot! I'm from South Africa so we have a VERY nice Bosch option available here 400W GOP40-30. It's corded but has an exceptional reputation. Pricey, though.
Great video! I just bought one to do some trim work, never used one before. Trained just in time! Thanks!
Awesome tips as always Ethan. What are your thoughts on the depth guide? I have an exact deWalt that you have and deWalt has a depth guide for it which once helped me avoid cutting too deep while giving me some extra "resting" support on the piece, but your tip on maintaining the correct posture is still very much valid.
Thanks Arash! Honestly, I’m yet to use the depth guide, because I got so used to not having one 😆 But I could see it being very helpful for that purpose!
Dewalt for compatibility of the battery. Never used anything else so don't have anything to compare it to.
I have been using the same Dewalt multitool like yours for about 4 years (I own 2 Dewalt multitools to replace the Milwaukee ones I owned). This is my goto tool everyday. I have done a lot of research into the blades. The el-cheapo blades you are using is expensive long term cheap up front but the amount far surpasses the the upfront cost of a better blade. For most cuts other than drywall I use the Imperial blade iBoat 360 metal & more blade Titanium coated carbide blade. it will cut most anything and even when the teeth are all but gone the titanium coating will still chew through grout with out cutting into the tile.
The japanese style wood blades are worthless as the teeth wear out supper fast and if you encounter anything metal the blade is instantly done (a waste of $11.00). iBoat 360 blades in bulk (50 blades) will run about $9.50/blade)
I use the same blades that you do. I ordered a 50 pcs pack with a variety of blades , for $45, as they do come in handy for various situations. Imho they last as long if not longer when used properly.
I agree, Hippo!
I have the older dremel multimax. I have been having trouble with the nut loosening very quickly during use.Have any ideas what I am doing wrong or what I need to do to fix this issue.It is so frustrating!!
Yes, be patient take your time, and let the tool work. As it is said below if the blade gets too hot, it will get dull faster.
Thank you for your clarity. How can you sharpen multi-tool blades?
Thanks RP! I believe they actually make files now that will do it for you
Can the Dewalt tool be locked on or off, or do you need to use the trigger? The Milwaukee version has a speed setting and an on/off switch. It's useful to be able to hold the tool in whatever way necessary without having to worry about squeezing the trigger. I'm an electrical apprentice so I don't use my multitool as often as my other powertools, but when I need it it always comes in clutch.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
Thank you for this video! I'm a 69 y/o female, just finished power washing my house, getting ready to paint it. Bought a Makita circular saw, and a nailgun and 16 ga nails for it. Discovering this multitool saved the day for me. I have sections of trim that are rotted and broken away. And then there are sections that are just fine. With this tool I can cut away the bad sections and replace it with new trim, patch the seams with either wood filler or paintable caulking. Save a ton of money on the trim, which is Hardie trim, and at $20 per 12 ft, adds up quick.
8:08 i havent seen anyone cut their cord but i have seen guards fail though. Its rare that i have to cut with a corded circular saw but remember not to trust that the safety features wont malfunction. Its those kind of little habits that can keep you from getting hurt. If you take care of your tools and respect them, they will always do what you need them to do. If you dont, they are likely to remind you in their own way. Even multi tools, i tried to notch a small piece of base holding in in one hand and the multitool in the other. I tried to force it to cut faster and it bit the wood and nicked my thumb. Not the worst thing to happen but i think that tool was politely reminding me that wood is tougher than me and it cuts wood all the time. Not only safety but they last longer too. I have had one multitool for a year and a half now and a guy i work with broke two and gave up buying them after the third got stolen. I kept telling him to let the tool do the work and even showed him but he was either unwilling or unable to learn. I dont get why but i have had some helpers who just couldnt learn. Im mostly joking but sometimes it feels like im in that video where the American soldiers are trying to teach the Afghan army how to do jumping jacks. Anyways, sorry for ranting. I promise im not a lunatic. Well i hope not anyway.
Good video! I think your #2 mistake is only partly right. I have at times found it to work well to get started and plunge in deeply in one side of the cut, then tilt the saw/blade and begin tracking the line, cutting full depth with the blade embedded and being guided by the existing cut kerf...sort of like having a guide block. Works especially well on softer materials like moldings, drywall or thinner soft woods/plywoods, where you can still provide some measure of twisting to adapt to drift.
How is the wobble? Eg, since wheels seem to be narrow, does the luggage shift around alot and throw off center? How about a flight of steps? How is it 1 yr later - would you buy again or buy integrated wheeled luggage?
I'm having issues with side grinders cutting steel doors for access control strikes. Never used this type tool.
Can it cut steel effectively?