@@Speedymute Powering along in gear and the engine seizes, the transmission will lock, which will lock the rear wheel. At that point you need to whip the clutch in quick to unlock the rear wheel or it'll throw you down the road. This is exactly what killed Joey Dunlops' brother Robert: ua-cam.com/video/LWcu1eg6FHU/v-deo.html
what cable are you using for your throttle. Because i was looking to get a domino quick action throttle but i didn't no if the standard throttle cable would fit. if you could give me any info on what you use that would be great
MrOkkur The RS 125 has a extern Oil tank.Thats the reason why he can do engine braking.Only twostrokes with Oil wich is directly mixed into the fuel the engine can get not enough oil while engine braking
Mr. Twostroke i personally own a Aprilia RS 125 and i can assure you that your resoning invalid, the RS has electronically controlled oilpump wich reacts to the amount of fuel the engine is getting and mixes a exact oil mix, and if you let go of the throttle there is no fuel and the pump wont inject any oil, this the same on my skidoo because it uses a rotax engine(same brand as rs125)
Hello mate, same thing happened to me this year.. Destroyed two engine builds! I think it was because I moved the HPI from the tail to the front, and it was right next to the HT Lead coil pack and was also exposed to heat from the engine.. I'll buy another and give HPI another chance, as I think it was MY fault! I'll put all three packs back in the tail where they're supposed to be away from vibration, heat and interference from HT Lead pack, will also rubber mount HPI and invest in a strobe light timing kit just to check it every now and then.. Something that was a bit weird though, both times my exhaust temp wasn't very high! Don't know why.. I want to fit another temp gauge on the bike with a Thermocouple Washer around the base of the spark plug just to keep an eye on spark plug temp too.. Hope this was some help.. Cheers. Ben
Dear Ben, thanks a lot for your information and suggestions. At the beginning I installed the HPI ignition with programmable CDI and the advance set up sport production was check by stroboscopic gun. Result: engine destroyed. Then I restored the engine and I asked to the Italian importer to replace the ignition and the CDI because seems that it does not function properly. I reduced the advance angle to prevent high temperature at high engine speed. Result: engine destroyed again. Than I restored the engine and the Italian importer suggest to install the analogical CDI (not programmable). I reduced again the advance angle at 18° at 2000 rpm to be sure 100% (very low value for performance). The result is shown in the video. Concerning the installation, in all previous cases I follow all recommendations of the dealer: position of the CDI and of the coil, pipette 5 ohm and shaded spark plug NGK BR10EG but the results was catastrophic. Now I have decided to install the original ignition with Zeeltronic ignition and battery eliminator to avoid problem. In any case I agree with you: the CDI must to be installed in the back away to the fly wheel and the coil. Please let me know in the future your experience with the HPI, I'm really interested, but you must to pay attention considering my bad experience. Thanks again for your information. They are very important to me. You are very kind. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me, I'll be happy if I can help you.
Dear Paul, thanks for suggestion. I know very well the zeeltronic CDI. I bought HPI for the inner rotor to reduce the flywheel mass. Now I return back installing the original ignition and CDI. When all will work properly i will evaluate to install Zeltronic CDI. I have seen your flywheel that is machined. Can you inform me about details of this lightening. I have seen your bike on the dyno (33,5 hp). It is a good result considering that the power is measured at the rear wheel during transient.
Dear Paul, sorry but sometimes I don't understand 100% your sentences (I’m Italian). Please write again the message using punctuation and avoiding abbreviations in order to allow my compression. Is it a question? If is it safe to reduce the mass of the std flywheel?
Yes sure, I’m really interested. I'm sorry but my English is not perfect, and so, sometimes it is not easy for me to understand. Let me know in details the modification of your flywheel. I have seen your flywheel in a videos when, in a room, the engine was disassembled. It is clear that has been machined. Can you inform me about the modification? Do you have some pictures of the modified flywheel? Many thanks my friend!
The ignition timing isn't respected by the HPI CDI as programmed. So detonation occurs, the temperature near the spark plug rise up a lot and game over. With the same setting but the STD ignition and CDI all now works well.
i have a kawasaki ninja 150, and i always pull the gas every enginebraking. because every enginebraking wthout any thruttle, my bike always do the same like this rs125.
Quindi te ne intendi e magari mi puoi aiutare. Dopo aver grippato ho ripristinato tutto e installato l'accensione originale mantenendo tutto il resto invariato. Il motore grippa ancora tirando in rettilineo per ottenere la velocità massima. Io credo che l'assenza del termostato faccia scendere troppo le temperature a velocità medio alte. Tu cosa ne pensi?
In altri video girava meglio cazzo,hai cambiato configurazione nel tempo,comunque,se hai foto del cilindro e pistone dopo la grippato nel video e me le mostri ti so dire di più
Enginebraking is not that high problem with stock Engine it doesnt change anything because it has an oil_Pump. Here i guess he uses mixture but still this is only a problem when you use it for a longer period at a time.
This isn't an Italian bikes vs Japanese bikes debate as this was a heavily reworked engine. That's always gonna leave the matters more to the builder than to the manufacturer of the bike.
00:39 everyone's nightmare
Damn... Right...😢
Even till this day...
Same here....😢😢😢stil have the bike
Congratulations on driving, the engine sound is perfect.
that was a cool ride... but now you have to walk lol :)
Buena capacidad de reacción! Conductor experto.
With these type of bikes, always two fingers on the clutch
Why?
@@Speedymute because when the Engine locks up like this it will also lock up your back tire, if you are still in gear and dont use your clutch.
@@Speedymute Powering along in gear and the engine seizes, the transmission will lock, which will lock the rear wheel. At that point you need to whip the clutch in quick to unlock the rear wheel or it'll throw you down the road. This is exactly what killed Joey Dunlops' brother Robert: ua-cam.com/video/LWcu1eg6FHU/v-deo.html
your carburator mainjet is stock or has up a size??
what cable are you using for your throttle. Because i was looking to get a domino quick action throttle but i didn't no if the standard throttle cable would fit. if you could give me any info on what you use that would be great
Hi, the cable is std, the sheath is of bicycle gear with teflon internal hose (autolub). It's great without friction.
POV: You own a 2 Stroke with 6 Gear shifting
Comunque non so se è dal video, ma sembra rumore di biella all'inizio
Jem bro
Solche Geräusche will man nicht hören.
Im sorry to say it but every Aprilia rs125 videos out there sounds like the engine is about to fall out.
No
00:40 You should have break, because you need to push to go home 😁
you need to stop engine braking, its a 2 stroke and when you let off the gas it doesnt get any oil to lubricate
especially in the higher rev ranges
MrOkkur The RS 125 has a extern Oil tank.Thats the reason why he can do engine braking.Only twostrokes with Oil wich is directly mixed into the fuel the engine can get not enough oil while engine braking
Mr. Twostroke i personally own a Aprilia RS 125 and i can assure you that your resoning invalid, the RS has electronically controlled oilpump wich reacts to the amount of fuel the engine is getting and mixes a exact oil mix, and if you let go of the throttle there is no fuel and the pump wont inject any oil, this the same on my skidoo because it uses a rotax engine(same brand as rs125)
MrOkkur I am sorry.I thought that the oil pump is controlled by rpm.
No problem a lot of people think the same way as you
Hello mate, same thing happened to me this year.. Destroyed two engine builds! I think it was because I moved the HPI from the tail to the front, and it was right next to the HT Lead coil pack and was also exposed to heat from the engine.. I'll buy another and give HPI another chance, as I think it was MY fault! I'll put all three packs back in the tail where they're supposed to be away from vibration, heat and interference from HT Lead pack, will also rubber mount HPI and invest in a strobe light timing kit just to check it every now and then.. Something that was a bit weird though, both times my exhaust temp wasn't very high! Don't know why.. I want to fit another temp gauge on the bike with a Thermocouple Washer around the base of the spark plug just to keep an eye on spark plug temp too.. Hope this was some help..
Cheers.
Ben
Dear Ben, thanks a lot for your information and suggestions. At the beginning I installed the HPI ignition with programmable CDI and the advance set up sport production was check by stroboscopic gun. Result: engine destroyed. Then I restored the engine and I asked to the Italian importer to replace the ignition and the CDI because seems that it does not function properly. I reduced the advance angle to prevent high temperature at high engine speed. Result: engine destroyed again. Than I restored the engine and the Italian importer suggest to install the analogical CDI (not programmable). I reduced again the advance angle at 18° at 2000 rpm to be sure 100% (very low value for performance). The result is shown in the video. Concerning the installation, in all previous cases I follow all recommendations of the dealer: position of the CDI and of the coil, pipette 5 ohm and shaded spark plug NGK BR10EG but the results was catastrophic. Now I have decided to install the original ignition with Zeeltronic ignition and battery eliminator to avoid problem. In any case I agree with you: the CDI must to be installed in the back away to the fly wheel and the coil. Please let me know in the future your experience with the HPI, I'm really interested, but you must to pay attention considering my bad experience. Thanks again for your information. They are very important to me. You are very kind. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me, I'll be happy if I can help you.
Dear Paul, thanks for suggestion. I know very well the zeeltronic CDI. I bought HPI for the inner rotor to reduce the flywheel mass. Now I return back installing the original ignition and CDI. When all will work properly i will evaluate to install Zeltronic CDI. I have seen your flywheel that is machined. Can you inform me about details of this lightening.
I have seen your bike on the dyno (33,5 hp). It is a good result considering that the power is measured at the rear wheel during transient.
Dear Paul, sorry but sometimes I don't understand 100% your sentences (I’m Italian). Please write again the message using punctuation and avoiding abbreviations in order to allow my compression.
Is it a question? If is it safe to reduce the mass of the std flywheel?
Yes sure, I’m really interested. I'm sorry but my English is not perfect, and so, sometimes it is not easy for me to understand. Let me know in details the modification of your flywheel. I have seen your flywheel in a videos when, in a room, the engine was disassembled. It is clear that has been machined. Can you inform me about the modification? Do you have some pictures of the modified flywheel? Many thanks my friend!
What happened exactly and how could it have been avoided?
The ignition timing isn't respected by the HPI CDI as programmed. So detonation occurs, the temperature near the spark plug rise up a lot and game over. With the same setting but the STD ignition and CDI all now works well.
@@mariogatti6362 you are supposed to adjust the ignition for your setup
Gasssss
😔😢
Rip
Top speed?
Zero
F
Segurillo
Mine broke down 1 month ago :/
Did you fix it yet
Fixed it?
The same exact thing happens to me on a 50cc bike aircooled but starts right up (i just put more 2t oil in it and its fine its an overheating problem)
No thats not a overheating problem, dude
My dude, you simply don't out enough 2t oil which will cause your engine to break(get stuck)
ignition problem ...
More oil will cause a leaner engine condition and therefor higher operating temperature, the solution is a bigger jet size in caburator not more oil
@@Oceam no 1:50 to 1:25 is 2% difference in carb, you will never measure higher temp with that.
i have a kawasaki ninja 150, and i always pull the gas every enginebraking. because every enginebraking wthout any thruttle, my bike always do the same like this rs125.
Your bike is 4 stroke, a whole other world, nothing like 2 stroke
But not a problem
4 strokes don't blow up like 2 strokes, it's a different type of engine
@@angeldzm I think he meant kawasaki ninja super kips zx150rr which is a 2stroke sports bike only available in southeast asian market
😖
Long way home on foot
Non girava bene... Sicuro che sia solo colpa dell'accensione?
Quindi te ne intendi e magari mi puoi aiutare. Dopo aver grippato ho ripristinato tutto e installato l'accensione originale mantenendo tutto il resto invariato. Il motore grippa ancora tirando in rettilineo per ottenere la velocità massima. Io credo che l'assenza del termostato faccia scendere troppo le temperature a velocità medio alte. Tu cosa ne pensi?
Mario Gatti carburazione?
Mario Gatti a quanto è la temperatura a velocità medio-alte?
Girava proprio male,sembrava un rotax totalmente originale solo ripotenziato,posso sapere la tua ela?
In altri video girava meglio cazzo,hai cambiato configurazione nel tempo,comunque,se hai foto del cilindro e pistone dopo la grippato nel video e me le mostri ti so dire di più
Sounded fucked at start of vid
Miao
classic engine braking again... :( new engine game over did u even run it in 500-700mile ? you had high spots on the cylinder 100%
i run hpi 162 main jet
45s idle
50 slide d53 needle mine flys
less than 100 miles
Mario Gatti i run 500-700 mile runin im on 6014 miles at mo on same piston
@@daverob1680 change the piston every 10000 kms trust me it will help you alot
😭
Too cold dude and engine braking ….
Enginebraking is not that high problem with stock Engine it doesnt change anything because it has an oil_Pump. Here i guess he uses mixture but still this is only a problem when you use it for a longer period at a time.
don't be ridiculous, stop thinking than using engine braking in a single downshift is going to damage a 2 stroke, it's not true
@@Fede_Rolik22 i don’t think that here this was the case, but thermo shock may have been ,if all the rest was is order
Porcodiaz come hai fatto a non volare per ariaaaa
ha tirato subitissimo la frizione
No problem for made in japan bikes....
This isn't an Italian bikes vs Japanese bikes debate as this was a heavily reworked engine.
That's always gonna leave the matters more to the builder than to the manufacturer of the bike.
@@Endisupertramp
nothing to add there
japanese bikes are lazy
that is why you should buy 4 stroke
no
This was a highly tuned engine with a malfunctioning aftermarket part, had nothing to do with it being 2 stroke
@@Oceam yeah yeah bro that engine screaming for its life
@@Zaches76890 Yea you can even hear the engine knocking when reaching 9k+ rpm
Bruh they are easier to fix than 4 stroke
I mean the engine will be broken in 20.000km but ii easy to fix it
F
that's what happens if you experiment too much with it, if you had left it as it is original, you wouldn't have to walk
no it was because of your horrible engine braking....... engine braking causes the engine get minium amount of oil and then it gets hot and does that.
I hate that sound :(
So you need to buy 250 four stroke if you want to feel some power. Or do you hate sound of engine crash?
Get a bike, I mean real one!
😖