Double and triple exposures also can give this effect. Placing plants farther away from the paper by ‘stacking’ them on additional pieces of glass also add to a depth impression.
Thank you so much! I am just starting to learn about cyanotype. My very first one was a boring set of leaves just as you described. I will do the multiple adds at different times for the best effect.
my mind directly goes to thinking that you could make multiple clear paper prints, each addint something, to create the same effect but with architecture, langscapes, people, etc
i want to try this with an old 15 watt UVB/UVA fluorescent tube light. Spectum peaks are somewhere around 340 and 430 nm. Can you give me a best guess for exposure time and how i know it is done? I´ve done Cyano twice in sunlight and would like to try a combination of a photgram and chemigram. Afaik the Cyanotype paper doesnt react to fixer and developer, so therefore i´m wondering what other chemicals i could use to create a chemigram-like effect? Thanks!
It's hard to say how long it will take to expose the image. But usually, when the print is getting to a bronze-like color thats when it's done. (The spectrum of your lamp is fine.) If you want to get a chemigramm-like effect I'd recommend using cyanotype emulsion. The order of operations is going to be a bit different in comparison to a conventional chemigramm. First apply the emulsion as you would apply the developer in a normal chemigramm. Let the emulsion dry. Arrange your objects for the photogram, expose that arrangement, and develop the print in water. If you want to get a negative-chemigramm, as you would conventionally get by using fixer you could use water (maybe slightly acidic) instead of the fixer. Just soak your subject in that water and place it on a coated and dry paper. This will wash away the emulsion in the areas where your subject is and, after developing, leave you with an image very similar to a negative-chemigramm. I hope that helps😄
@@JulianSandro yes that helps! Thanks for your time. I just exposed the cyano paper for 33 minutes and it looks like it worked. So the old lamp is still good.
Double and triple exposures also can give this effect. Placing plants farther away from the paper by ‘stacking’ them on additional pieces of glass also add to a depth impression.
Thank you so much! I am just starting to learn about cyanotype. My very first one was a boring set of leaves just as you described. I will do the multiple adds at different times for the best effect.
I also like Tom Ang 😊
Wow beautiful prints. The one with the hands and moon !!!
Thank you! I actually made a video about that print: You can watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/fzn8NVC-O4A/v-deo.html
It definitely looks better than any leaf cyanotype print I have ever seen
my mind directly goes to thinking that you could make multiple clear paper prints, each addint something, to create the same effect but with architecture, langscapes, people, etc
I made something kind of similar in this video: ua-cam.com/video/fzn8NVC-O4A/v-deo.html
the hands and the moon look cool!
Thank you! I actually made a video about that print:
ua-cam.com/video/fzn8NVC-O4A/v-deo.html
amazing-Thank you!
i want to try this with an old 15 watt UVB/UVA fluorescent tube light. Spectum peaks are somewhere around 340 and 430 nm. Can you give me a best guess for exposure time and how i know it is done? I´ve done Cyano twice in sunlight and would like to try a combination of a photgram and chemigram. Afaik the Cyanotype paper doesnt react to fixer and developer, so therefore i´m wondering what other chemicals i could use to create a chemigram-like effect? Thanks!
It's hard to say how long it will take to expose the image. But usually, when the print is getting to a bronze-like color thats when it's done. (The spectrum of your lamp is fine.)
If you want to get a chemigramm-like effect I'd recommend using cyanotype emulsion. The order of operations is going to be a bit different in comparison to a conventional chemigramm. First apply the emulsion as you would apply the developer in a normal chemigramm. Let the emulsion dry. Arrange your objects for the photogram, expose that arrangement, and develop the print in water. If you want to get a negative-chemigramm, as you would conventionally get by using fixer you could use water (maybe slightly acidic) instead of the fixer. Just soak your subject in that water and place it on a coated and dry paper. This will wash away the emulsion in the areas where your subject is and, after developing, leave you with an image very similar to a negative-chemigramm. I hope that helps😄
@@JulianSandro yes that helps! Thanks for your time. I just exposed the cyano paper for 33 minutes and it looks like it worked. So the old lamp is still good.