How to Stop Your Dog From Barking: Prevent Nuisance Barking!
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- Do you have a dog who barks at everything? Is your dog's constant barking driving you crazy? In this video we'll take you through the step-by-step process for how to stop your dog from barking.
Throw out the zap collars - this is a much better method for training your dog not to bark! We'll focus on desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to triggers that set your dog off and make your dog bark, and reinforcing the moments when your dog is able to stay silent.
We'll also show you how to teach your dog a "quiet" command so that your dog will stop barking when you cue him to be silent.
We'll be covering everything you need to know about how to train your dog not to bark, including:
0:32 Reasons Why Dogs Bark
0:55 My Personal History With a Barking Dog
3:22 Step One: Treats for Silence
5:18 Step Two: Keep Rewarding for Silence
6:57 Step Three: Up the Ante
10:21 Why You (Usually) Don't Need to Worry About Rewarding Your Dog for Barking
11:38 Step Four: Introducing the "Quiet" Cue
14:41 Why Preventing Your Dog From Barking is an Ongoing Effort!
Best of all, these strategies don't rely on scaring your dog or using force to intimidate. Instead, you'll simply show your dog that it pays to stay quiet, even when squirrels are running past or when the mailman approaches the door with a package. - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
Great video. Well done. The only thing I would tweak would be sticking to the word "cue" and not using the word "command". "Cue" is such a much more cooperative word. Just my two scents. Thanks again.
This is a wonderful video, i too have a highly reactive dog but she doesnt take in treats much when shes outdoor therefore shes not gonna be taking in treats in between the silence too:/ any tips on how to improve on that?
I know its been a year so I don’t know if you will see this but I want to say thank you. I have watched lots of training videos and I love how this one is more like a friend posting a video, made it much easier to watch and learn from. I love your techniques and patience.
I really appreciate hearing that! Remy has taught me an abundance of patience I never even knew I possessed. OoO
your channel is a blessing, thank you so much for this!
I have a small dog he’s kinda cute but he non stop barks. I believe this video will stop me stop beating on him out of frustration.
Merci, merci, merci !🐶I want try this method!
Let us know how it goes!
Thank you for that video! The only good one on YT, answering how to deal with the challenges we face with our dog! Impressive work with your Dog, too! Congratulations!
Glad it was helpful!
This was a really nicely done training video for adressing barking, thank you!
I can very much relate to this type of behaviour with one of my dogs who has behavioural issues that I find quite challenging even though I have alot of previous experiences with dogs, and their behavioural issues, in general.
And like you said, the barking part might not nessesarily be the "worst" of those behavioural issues, but its one of those things you really want to find a suitable way to work on as soon as possible. Sometimes it really does shorten your patience alot with the training in general, as some dogs have a bark that just gets to you and affect your mood. It saddens me that some trainers dont understand that kindof important part; where the barking will affect You really negatively, even though to some its not as annoying. Some trainers are just too quick to judge You for being frustrated and triggered from the challenging situation, when the barking is non stop, and you arent able to communicate with your dog though that barking. So thank you for acknowledging that part ☀️
Oh absolutely! I think it’s a lot easier to train your dog with kindness and empathy when they haven’t been shrieking in your ear for an hour haha
Thank you so much for this video! I have three dogs and you can imagine how ear-piercing and annoying it is when they all bark together. I'm definitely going to try these tips out!
I hope they help! It definitely takes some rinsing and repeating but I bet they'll catch on ;)
I have 3 dogs as well. They can be a challenge
Remy is adorable and your progress is inspirational. I first found your channel when I searched for videos about leash reactive dogs (I’ve also got one). I’m a subscriber because I love all the details and tips you share in your videos. I also love that you use positive reinforcement and talk about your personal experiences. This video came at just the right time. Nuisance barking is an issue we need to work on now.
At around 6:00, you say that you’re “really challenging Remy, waiting several seconds between the click and reward”. If he barks before you give him the treat, do you withhold the treat for that click? My understanding is that a reward must always follow a click.
Please make a video about how you taught Remy to go to his bed and stay.
Thank you so much for the support, it means a lot :) Ah yeah, my language there is kind of confusing. I mean I’m waiting more to mark, so waiting longer between clicks, trying to get Remy to be quiet for longer periods between reinforcers. But I am still trying to deliver the treat as soon after the click as I can - I’m not trying to stretch that out.
If Remy barks again between when I click and when I deliver the treat, I still give him the treat because the click = treat association is so important, you really don’t want to poison it. Which is why it’s doubly important in this kind of situation to deliver the treat as soon as possible after the click!
Thank you for the suggestion, maybe I will do a video about his bed cue next!
💙
Great video! I woke up hollering at my dog... This is not training. I DON'T YELL at dogs! Except when I wake up mid yell after two weeks of sleep deprivation, apparently :( So I'm ordering a clicker. I'm a bit nervous about 'keeping the treats coming.' See, we have a obese night barker, but luckily high energy so we will do our best to make the treats tiny and walk those goodies right out of his chubby little butt lol Thanks SO much for the video - now to begin!
Great video. I would never go as far as a schock collar but I think a "time out" or in crate "punishment" would do well in combination with the positive reinforcment.
I love the idea of only positive reinforcment and use it for almost all training I do. But when it comes to problem behaviours that are affecting my life/family, some negative punishment is sometimes in my opinion approriate.
We used a time out with our dog. His barking affected our work (since we worked from home). It took about a week to train and after that he rarely barks (while we are around). The time out would consist of putting him in a boring crate in an empty room. Duration for about an hour (since our dog does bot have seperation anxiety) and only releasing when he was being quiet.
This might sound harsh but unlike a schock collar you don't need to continiue punishing forever. Our dog started undesrstanding the rules. (It does not work though if you want to train them to be quit while you are out of the house)
The problem here is that you can’t explain to a dog why they are being put in time out. It’s really easy to do more harm than good with positive punishment in these types of situations. Imagine your dog sees another dog outside, starts barking, and then is put in time out. The dog might associate time out with the other dog. Or the dog learns when you grab his collar, he goes to time out (which will make him nervous or unhappy about you grabbing his collar in the future). You never choose what your dog is learning.
I will also say I tried using time outs for Remy’s nipping issues and it backfired badly. In grabbing Remy to put him in time out, he would play keep away from me, turning the time out into a fun game, basically rewarding his bad behavior!
The other issue is that using the crate as a punishment is a big no-no. Gating a dog off away from window triggers is a perfectly acceptable management solution, but using a crate for punishment can create a negative association with the crate, which is never something you want.
Lastly, an hour is way too long to be putting a dog in time out for. If the dog needs an hour to calm down, something is wrong and there is a disconnect. Plenty of people use time outs effectively for behavior issues, but we’re talking 30 seconds to 2 min. Never more than 4-5 min.
You’ve found something that works for you, which is great. But if you continue to struggle I’d suggest bringing in a certified trainer because I’m concerned some of the strategies you are using could potentially backfire.
I’d suggest using an x-pen or gated area instead of the crate. Also try using lickimats, frozen kongs, of chews to help him calm down. That way it might not take so long to get him calm and quiet!
Thanks for watching the video, hope it was helpful!
@@K9ofMine Thanks for the reply. You bring up some really good points. Made me really rethink if this method really would work that well for other people. For our situation I think we have a couple specific factors that make this method less problematic.
First I think our dog is less reactive than the usual dog with a barking problems. It is less that he is anxious or protective and more that he wants to play with the other dogs. Therefore there are plenty of situations where he is more tired and watches other dogs walk by throught the window without barking. When he does bark and gets a time out, I think he therefore understand that it is the barking and not the dog or grabbing the collar that is the reason for the time out. The reason I think for dogs that don't understand why they are in a time out is that they bark at every single dog every time so they don't se any contrast in their behaviour and punnishment. With our dog we also say a "quite" command when he is loud, before he gets a time out which helps him understand. We say it immediatly after barking and very consistantly and if he does not respond he gets a timeout. (Nowdays he barks much less often and when he does the command is almost always enough.)
Secondly with our dog he does not really run away from us indoors. We have made it a point to limit our play time with him to the yard, dogpark and other outdoor activities. In the house we have taught him to not do physical play with us. Reason being that we have family that are dogscared and/or have kids which we don't want to scare away with a big rambunctious dog. But for other dogs or if we needed use time outs more often and/or over longer period this might be a huge problem indeed.
Thirdly for associating the crate more negativly, I can see that being a problem. For us we only use the crate for night time sleeping and he is very used and comftorble inside it. The reason why in our situation I think it's ok to use a crate is that he 1: is very used to it (has slept in one every night since he was a puppy) and 2: because when he goes to sleep in the crate we always give him his night time Kong meal. This creates a distinction between time out and sleep time. Also after the week or two of training he does not get almost any time outs so for the limited time we used it I think it was fine. I do admit though that we should have gotten a pen or other crate and it was more laziness on our part. Definetly good adice from your part!
Lastly the 1 hour time out I do admit might be excessive. Why we do go for the hour is because around that time we need him to be quite he is usually already chilling in the crate often times for longer than an hour when he is sleeping. So he is very comftorble inside it and never freaked out or whined that much on time outs. He usually just goes to sleep so it is not really that much of a punishemnt. But on times when he is barking he is usually more restless so the crate I do imagine is not his favorite place to be. But after the hour I usually let him out in the yard or go on a walk. I just can't see a 5-15 min timeout doing much but I might be very wrong. As you said every dog is different and I imagine most ones with this problem might not be as chill in a crate.
Again very good points. For our situation I do think this method was good enough. I do wish we used a pen or other crate and maybe tried 15-30 min instead of an hour. I will in any case do so in the future. Thanks again for the reply and keep up the good work.
Im going through this with my rescue. The neighbors are now complaining.
I’m so sorry! That can be really stressful. It definitely takes some patience but things can get better!
What about crate barking? My puppy barks in his crate whenever I am not in the room. As soon as I walk out of the room, or even turn away from him, he barks. Any advice for this, since I'm usually not in the room?
Hey Madison - this sounds like he might be dealing with separation anxiety. Does he bark when you leave the house as well? Check out our guide on separation anxiety for more info: www.k9ofmine.com/dog-separation-anxiety/
How about the dogs that several different vets and trainers all say "he is the way he is, we can't do nothing for him"? My Jack Russell/Staff mix (35 lbs, more Jack than Staff looking with Spitz-like muzzle) dog is territorial and never accepts anyone other than myself and my immediate family members, totaling at 4 people and 1 pet Canary. Several training kennels refused us just when he is 1 years old and many vets also said he can't be helped he is the way he is. He is now 11 years old and not a single drop of energy or territorial, protective instincts.
Most of the aggressive, territorial dogs I've seen on internet videos(thousands over the 11 years) comes no where close to him in aggression and territorial protection. He just goes berserk, no matter how big the stranger is be it human or a dog. He never backs down, never runs away. He got almost mauled to death by 2 American Bullies(1 male, 1 female broke out and came to our yard at night when I took him out to pee) couple years back, both were double the size of him but he wasn't even trying to run away to save himself. He and I got injured mildly until owner of the dogs come to get them but even in that bloody situation(lacerations on my arms, hands and my dogs and male bullies legs, butt, nose/female was unhurt), he was still biting and fighting the male dog. When I correct him, he tries to be sneaky and finds a line of attack silently to avoid my correction then off he goes. Just like some hunting cats do, getting close to ground, being slow and silent until the attack.
Only thing he is afraid of and running away is sea turtles(even hand sized tiny ones) and porcupines. All other animals and human beings, except my tiny Canary, is a prey for him. He goes off like a rabid animal. When strangers or other animals leave or run away, he instantly goes calm and clownish like a switch turned off. He never bit any human beings yet but that is because I'm on him 24-7. Never off the leash, never out of my sight for 11 years. I am so exhausted and frustrated sometimes but I cope with it.
We rescued him when he was sick and dying when he was only a week old. He never got nursed and vet told us he is going to die, they even refused to do injections. For 2 weeks I had to medicate him with various mixtures of herbs and remedies for his symptoms using my late grandmas recipes for humans and he pulled through. First thing he saw when opened his eyes were me so he never even seen another dog till 3 months old let alone socializing.
Anyway, he is 11 and healthy as an ox right now and our vet were very surprised to see him live. But after that he told us when we was 3 months old, he is going to be a problem. I don't know how he was able to know this when he was this young but he was correct at the end. I had many other dogs before and only our German Shepperd was like him but it was out in the country, not city so he was alright in that setting where there are no other people or animals for miles, only wolves and hogs as predators.
How about the dogs I just described? It's impossible to give him treats or positive reinforcements when he is on protection mode. Even his favorite treat. He also takes absolutely nothing from strangers or outside even if it's the same treat. When I pick up and give him he takes, other than that he wont even lick it. One thing I haven't tried so far is pharmaceutical medications, such as anti-depressants or similar. Our vet say as soon as he is off of the meds, he will return back to his ways.
Wow, that sounds like a really tough and exhausting situation! A lot of aggression can stem from fear and stress, so I'd say it might be worth brushing up on dog body language to better assess how he's feeling around his triggers. What's his exercise and enrichment schedule like? Adding more enrichment (puzzles, scavenger hunts, cardboard tearing puzzles, etc) and more walks may help him chill out more.
Generally if a dog isn't taking food, it's because they are too overwhelmed and are over-threshold. So I'd suggest working around his triggers from a further distance.
The fact that he was removed from his mother at such an extraordinarily young age is significant. Early negative experiences like that, and not being given the chance to develop properly as a puppy should, alongside his mother and siblings, until about 8 weeks can have a HUGE impact on a dog's lifelong disposition and stress. All this is just to say, your dog is already working with a lot against him.
I would 100% recommend pursuing pharmaceutical medication. Way too many people (myself include) take too long to consider meds, and it can make a world of difference. The fact that your vet doesn't recommend them simply because going off them will result in him turning to his previous behavior is concerning. You may want to consider getting a different vet.
Ideally, what you should do is consult with a veterinary behaviorist. This is a unique type of veterinarian that specialized in behavior. They are not easy to come by and usually have a waitlist of clients. But they are the BEST at developing a medication and training plan for difficult dogs.
Please do consider medication, as your dog sounds VERY stressed and anxious, poor guy. Medication can lower your dog's stress to the point where training and behavior modification can happen more effectively. You can work on weaning your dog off as he is able to work on training and behavior modification under threshold.
I don't get it. I thought treats were given after a desirable conduct, as a reward or incetive to do again. Why would I reward the barking, giving a treat the immediate second after?
You're rewarding the pause in barking. Plus, once your dog sees treats or food, he's usually re-oriented towards the food rather than whatever he was barking at, so if you continue to give food, he'll continue to be quiet. The food stops as soon as he starts barking again.
A video you definitely can't watch with your reactive dog 😂
Wouldn't recommend it lol