EXCELLENT instructions. Absolutely perfect. I've been looking at buying a PerTronix electronic ignition but was worried about how to hook it up. Now, I know and the fear is gone. I did zone out a couple times during the video but I've got the attention span of a gnat - 7 seconds. I'll just rewind and keep playing the video until I've got it all down pat. Now I've got to figure out which unit model to buy for my 1965 Ford Custom (Galaxie) straight six 3.9L, 240 ci engine. I believe it is going to be the 1261 or the 1266 depending on whether I have a round distrubutor shaft or "D" shape distrubutor shaft. UPDATE 2 YEARS LATER - Well, I'm finally getting around to installing the 1266 unit and coil. It's been so long that I've forgotten if that's the proper unit for my car. I noticed there were no instructions in my box. I probably took them out to read and left them laying around. I'm glad I found this video again. Should be an easy job.
I installed this Pertronix in my 1966 Mustang it worked for 2 years last week my Mustang just died while driving . I replaced all the other electric parts Voltage regulator new battery , new alternator, fuel pump , all fine it was the Pertronix unit that failed so I am going back to points .I do not mind changing points they are the original part to the car and distributor. yes, points are a mechanical part which is good Modifying these parts is not a good idea at least for me. If points are bad a car will just run rough you can still drive home not with Pertronix I never had a car with bad points die on me while driving .
This was an awesome instructional video for us entry level mechanics. My 17 year old son and I were able to switch our 1971 Comet from point to electronic ignition easily. Our only issue was when we somehow dropped the magnetic sleeve somewhere between the house and the shop, and spend about 2 hours looking for it before my daughter finally found it:)
This may be correct for Pertronix I but its not correct for Pertronix II if your car has a resistor wire. Make sure to read the isntructions in the Pertronix box of the one you are using AND for how your car is setup.
You are absolutely correct. While using the reduced voltage positive coil primary terminal will "function" at a reduced voltage level, the Pertronix system is designed to run at full battery voltage. From what I have read a large number of Pertronix problems are caused by using a source voltage that is too low because a Resistor Wire or Ballast resistor is in use. Some of the confusion is the Pertronix instructions I saw indicate the Pertronix unit is set up exactly s shown in the video. What is not clear on their drawing is the positive primary connection on the coil in the photo is connected to a 12 volt source, therefore the non-oem ignition coil is designed to run at battery voltage, as opposed to post-resistor wire/ballast voltage levels. I know that First Generation Mustangs (Ford in general in the 60s and 70s), depending on the year, a person can grab 12 volts of switched power from Circuit 63 (usually a red wire for 67 and later) that powers the windshield wiper motor, or for 71-73 Mustangs there is a Circuit 640 wire (Red with Yellow Hash) that feeds a Throttle Position Solenoid (TPS, whether the solenoid is presemt or not). If the TPS wiring is available, I prefer to use it just because it is so close to the distributor already.
The Ignitor 2 has hotter spark for high performance applications, for most people the Ignitor 1 is adequate. Dual Point distributors were typically only found in factory high performance cars so you most likely have a single point. You can pop off the distributor cap and easily see which you have.
That's not the reason. You don't have to set dwell either. The hotter spark also helps keep the plugs clean and it also has the safety feature that protects the module in the event you leave the ignition on. The Pertronix I doesn't.
For a little you can get a bilet distributor by Mallory or MSD without a box, most 60's cars had 7mm stock ignition wires,now they're using 8.5mm, a higher coil output will fry them.
Hello again Bill, excuse me, I got a Pertronix D-1350 for my 289, reading the instructions I understood that there is no more need for any external coil nor celenoi, this distributor is already set to install & use? In a different subject, do you have any video informing: instructing how the water pump small hoses connections goes to? In & outlets & from the engine?
If you hook it up that way on a 69 ford the PerTronix will only get about 9 volts because of the pink resister wirer. Will it still work with only 9 volts.
How's it going Bill great vid! I've been buying from cj's for over 2 years now. Quick question hope you could answer, would you recommend getting the electronic points ignitor and the flame thrower coil or would you recommend the entire cast ignitor flamethrower distributor? Would the second option only be acquired if a new entire distributor that enters the block be needed?
It really depends on your budget and goals. The whole distributor is a great piece but for a mild engine many times the drop in ignitor is all you need.
I'm looking at fixing up a 1966 mustang and have a couple questions. I planned on doing the t5 5 speed manual Trans conversion and ford racing crate engine that you've done and was wondering if I should get one of these ignighters. I also wanted to change the exhaust system (probably to something by flomaster) and wanted to know if I should buy new headers just to be safe (from Flowmaster as well).
Thanks for the reply! I'm getting the igniter 1, however my set up is different. I have 3 wires to the coil, one green which I believe is the resistance wire and a thick wire which has all aftermarket gauge reader components attached. Both go to the firewall. And the third which goes into the distributor. My question..should I not add the green wire at all? And should I still splice and add the provided connect to the thick wire with all the aftermarket parts? Will this affect any of my gauges or readings? temp, speed, rpm etc? And Then just add the ignitor wires regularly as seen on your vid? Thanks Bill, any info would be appreciated!
Informative. Please slow the speaking tempo down. How many pots of coffee did you drink? An important issue is the original Ignition wire has a built in Resister which drops the voltage down to about 6V (Not to destroy the original points). This wire needs to be bypassed or configured with a Relay. Pertronix does not mention this in their notes. It will eliminate any issues you may be experiencing after your make the switch to Electronic ignitions. Cheers
@@jordanparker8359 Hey, did you figure this out? I ordered their relay kit and I'm struggling to make it work. I would like to preserve the factory tachometer if possible. Thanks!
Guys, can i swap the stock pick up coil and reluctor to pertronix #1281 in the distribuitor of a Mustang 302 with stock electronic ignition??? or it only works with the older distributors that have points and condenser??
After you install, you said , reconnect your battery, start your car, and set the timer as normal.... why. Idk a lot about cars but to me it sounds like I STILL need to set my timer even after I installed the electronic ignition. Or am I wrong
I bought this for a 1967 Mustang with a 6 cylinder. I could NOT get it to work properly. I wound up going back to points and condenser set up. No real knowledge was provided when I called. Don’t know what my options are to replace points setup..
if I have electronic motor craft distributor can I still install pertronix ignitor III the reason I ask is because in the catalog is asking me If have single or dual point distributor
hey bill I own a 1966 mustang but have a 1969 straight 6 in her. My 1969 engine does not have a pollution control device. Should I still get the 1965-1974 1261 Mustang Pertronix (with thermactor) or the 1965-1967 1266 pertronix (without thermactor).
I have one of my 72 pickup and I can't say that I'm with electronics after all Points never let me down or any of my friends ever yeah they need to be adjusted worst case scenario is you reaching into a box to grab another set of points on and you continue home this looks it could leave me on the side of the road it's electronic it gets hot it's in the distributor, points never let us down ever.
Let me down a couple weeks ago after 7 years. Been frustrating to replace, bought ignitor3, that won’t work with holley sniper, bought igniter2, seems to work, but now on second sniper setup. May go back to carb if this fails… Yay electronics!
@@cjponyparts lol I never thought anyone would see my comment not reply being such an older comment. Think you did a good job even if I have to watch parts over again to catch up. Haha. I am getting ready to start a 68 f250 rebuild so just getting to some of this stuff.
I'm sorry but this is just bad information and an incorrect install for first generation Mustang guys. It won't be getting 12V, it will fry the module in less than 2 yrs, and it will run like garbage the entire time.
EXCELLENT instructions. Absolutely perfect. I've been looking at buying a PerTronix electronic ignition but was worried about how to hook it up. Now, I know and the fear is gone. I did zone out a couple times during the video but I've got the attention span of a gnat - 7 seconds. I'll just rewind and keep playing the video until I've got it all down pat. Now I've got to figure out which unit model to buy for my 1965 Ford Custom (Galaxie) straight six 3.9L, 240 ci engine. I believe it is going to be the 1261 or the 1266 depending on whether I have a round distrubutor shaft or "D" shape distrubutor shaft. UPDATE 2 YEARS LATER - Well, I'm finally getting around to installing the 1266 unit and coil. It's been so long that I've forgotten if that's the proper unit for my car. I noticed there were no instructions in my box. I probably took them out to read and left them laying around. I'm glad I found this video again. Should be an easy job.
I installed this Pertronix in my 1966 Mustang it worked for 2 years last week my Mustang just died while driving . I replaced all the other electric parts Voltage regulator new battery , new alternator, fuel pump , all fine it was the Pertronix unit that failed so I am going back to points .I do not mind changing points they are the original part to the car and distributor. yes, points are a mechanical part which is good Modifying these parts is not a good idea at least for me. If points are bad a car will just run rough you can still drive home not with Pertronix I never had a car with bad points die on me while driving .
This was an awesome instructional video for us entry level mechanics. My 17 year old son and I were able to switch our 1971 Comet from point to electronic ignition easily. Our only issue was when we somehow dropped the magnetic sleeve somewhere between the house and the shop, and spend about 2 hours looking for it before my daughter finally found it:)
Thank you, I used your video as a reference on installing my pertronix on my son's 63 Ranchero.
In case you lose your air gap little tool/gauge, I just got off the phone with tech support because I did lose mine. it is .030.
This may be correct for Pertronix I but its not correct for Pertronix II if your car has a resistor wire. Make sure to read the isntructions in the Pertronix box of the one you are using AND for how your car is setup.
You are absolutely correct. While using the reduced voltage positive coil primary terminal will "function" at a reduced voltage level, the Pertronix system is designed to run at full battery voltage. From what I have read a large number of Pertronix problems are caused by using a source voltage that is too low because a Resistor Wire or Ballast resistor is in use. Some of the confusion is the Pertronix instructions I saw indicate the Pertronix unit is set up exactly s shown in the video. What is not clear on their drawing is the positive primary connection on the coil in the photo is connected to a 12 volt source, therefore the non-oem ignition coil is designed to run at battery voltage, as opposed to post-resistor wire/ballast voltage levels.
I know that First Generation Mustangs (Ford in general in the 60s and 70s), depending on the year, a person can grab 12 volts of switched power from Circuit 63 (usually a red wire for 67 and later) that powers the windshield wiper motor, or for 71-73 Mustangs there is a Circuit 640 wire (Red with Yellow Hash) that feeds a Throttle Position Solenoid (TPS, whether the solenoid is presemt or not). If the TPS wiring is available, I prefer to use it just because it is so close to the distributor already.
Thank you so much! I want to install one of these on my 62 Mercury, which is the same distributor as the one in your video! You rock!
The Ignitor 2 has hotter spark for high performance applications, for most people the Ignitor 1 is adequate. Dual Point distributors were typically only found in factory high performance cars so you most likely have a single point. You can pop off the distributor cap and easily see which you have.
That's not the reason. You don't have to set dwell either. The hotter spark also helps keep the plugs clean and it also has the safety feature that protects the module in the event you leave the ignition on. The Pertronix I doesn't.
For a little you can get a bilet distributor by Mallory or MSD without a box, most 60's cars had 7mm stock ignition wires,now they're using 8.5mm, a higher coil output will fry them.
Hello again Bill, excuse me, I got a Pertronix D-1350 for my 289, reading the instructions I understood that there is no more need for any external coil nor celenoi, this distributor is already set to install & use?
In a different subject, do you have any video informing: instructing how the water pump small hoses connections goes to? In & outlets & from the engine?
Very good instruction very helpful if possible slow your roll slightly
If you hook it up that way on a 69 ford the PerTronix will only get about 9 volts because of the pink resister wirer. Will it still work with only 9 volts.
How's it going Bill great vid! I've been buying from cj's for over 2 years now. Quick question hope you could answer, would you recommend getting the electronic points ignitor and the flame thrower coil or would you recommend the entire cast ignitor flamethrower distributor? Would the second option only be acquired if a new entire distributor that enters the block be needed?
It really depends on your budget and goals. The whole distributor is a great piece but for a mild engine many times the drop in ignitor is all you need.
why didn't they make the studs on the coil longer so you could use the stock connector??
my thoughts exactly. why butcher the oem wiring if it's really not necessary.
I'm looking at fixing up a 1966 mustang and have a couple questions. I planned on doing the t5 5 speed manual Trans conversion and ford racing crate engine that you've done and was wondering if I should get one of these ignighters. I also wanted to change the exhaust system (probably to something by flomaster) and wanted to know if I should buy new headers just to be safe (from Flowmaster as well).
I'm having a bad stumble throughout the rpm range. Any idea what causes this?
Thanks for the reply! I'm getting the igniter 1, however my set up is different. I have 3 wires to the coil, one green which I believe is the resistance wire and a thick wire which has all aftermarket gauge reader components attached. Both go to the firewall. And the third which goes into the distributor. My question..should I not add the green wire at all? And should I still splice and add the provided connect to the thick wire with all the aftermarket parts? Will this affect any of my gauges or readings? temp, speed, rpm etc? And Then just add the ignitor wires regularly as seen on your vid? Thanks Bill, any info would be appreciated!
Informative. Please slow the speaking tempo down. How many pots of coffee did you drink?
An important issue is the original Ignition wire has a built in Resister which drops the voltage down to about 6V (Not to destroy the original points). This wire needs to be bypassed or configured with a Relay. Pertronix does not mention this in their notes. It will eliminate any issues you may be experiencing after your make the switch to Electronic ignitions. Cheers
I’ve been hearing this how do I do so?
@@jordanparker8359 Hey, did you figure this out? I ordered their relay kit and I'm struggling to make it work. I would like to preserve the factory tachometer if possible. Thanks!
Beware of the pink resistor wire modification per the instructions
Hi Bill does this unit fit the fomoco 12127 distributor on a 1965 mustang 289
I have duel points accel will the system Work for me?
We have a set on our new 62 Mercury Meteor Hot Rod!!!
Guys, can i swap the stock pick up coil and reluctor to pertronix #1281 in the distribuitor of a Mustang 302 with stock electronic ignition??? or it only works with the older distributors that have points and condenser??
for my 66' ford 289 is there a resistance wire? can I open up my plug gap after the installation? Thanks, great video
After you install, you said , reconnect your battery, start your car, and set the timer as normal.... why. Idk a lot about cars but to me it sounds like I STILL need to set my timer even after I installed the electronic ignition. Or am I wrong
8:19
not "timer". "timing". here's some info about adjusting a car's timing: www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Timing
I bought this for a 1967 Mustang with a 6 cylinder. I could NOT get it to work properly. I wound up going back to points and condenser set up. No real knowledge was provided when I called. Don’t know what my options are to replace points setup..
Pertronix Ignitor part number 1266 worked on my 67 200.
if I have electronic motor craft distributor can I still install pertronix ignitor III the reason I ask is because in the catalog is asking me If have single or dual point distributor
hey bill I own a 1966 mustang but have a 1969 straight 6 in her. My 1969 engine does not have a pollution control device. Should I still get the 1965-1974 1261 Mustang Pertronix (with thermactor) or the 1965-1967 1266 pertronix (without thermactor).
Is the “factory wire” the ignition switch wire?
I have one of my 72 pickup and I can't say that I'm with electronics after all Points never let me down or any of my friends ever yeah they need to be adjusted worst case scenario is you reaching into a box to grab another set of points on and you continue home this looks it could leave me on the side of the road it's electronic it gets hot it's in the distributor, points never let us down ever.
Let me down a couple weeks ago after 7 years. Been frustrating to replace, bought ignitor3, that won’t work with holley sniper, bought igniter2, seems to work, but now on second sniper setup. May go back to carb if this fails… Yay electronics!
Hello . I installed a pertronix 2 powered with 12 Volts.
I must add a ballast resistor?
thank you
nice how to
I would say in theory that would be possible but can't say I ever tried.
Do I need to set the timing again or check the timing
Without pollution control would be the 1266
Okay, it's been 7 years time to changes the spelling of Petronix in the video title to Pertronix.
Please i need the ignition for the ford Essex 3lt v6 motor with the Bosch distributor
Would be a great video sans the music
Is there a reason why your talking at 2X speed. You mumbling some words.
I understood everything
he has a gun to his head
Why that horrendous background music!!??
Nice stuff but man he talks fast.
It was my very first video and I wanted off camera as soon as possible lol
@@cjponyparts lol I never thought anyone would see my comment not reply being such an older comment. Think you did a good job even if I have to watch parts over again to catch up. Haha. I am getting ready to start a 68 f250 rebuild so just getting to some of this stuff.
crusher j I still see them all and try to answer when I can :)
I'm sorry but this is just bad information and an incorrect install for first generation Mustang guys. It won't be getting 12V, it will fry the module in less than 2 yrs, and it will run like garbage the entire time.
I GIVE A THUMBS DOWN FOR THE DAMN ANNOYING MUSIC !
Why music? 😂
You guys need to get rid of your stupid music, its an how to video not a music video.
Crackhead drummer gone crazy
Why does this guy slur his words together so badly?
Mini strokes
@@joekenny335 I agree. I'm not a medical doctor, but I agree the host could be suffering from some type of neurological disorder.
@@ericabercrombie6780 it sure fits the behavior ..hopefully not though!
Get rid of the dang music
Ditch the music, good god. It's distracting from what was being said, not to mention being horrible "canned" heavy metal rock nonsense.
Ryan Quantz this was the very first video I ever did lol. While we still use music we have gotten much better