Pretty cool, I never knew there was a fix for this. The idle has always bugged me in the 6 years I've had my Xterra. Gonna have to pick up a reader and the app. Thanks!
@@autoxadvice4159 I'm a heavy duty diesel mechanic and I'm always buying tools so that's not a problem. I have a nice scanner but it doesn't program. never had the need for one of the wireless ones till now. I didn't realize they had the ability to write to the ECM.
Thanks for the info....Battling low idle and low oil pressure, while at idle, in gear. I have the VQ40DE in a 2012, Nissan Frontier, crew cab, 4wd, automatic. I used the aoonav v1.5 Mini Bluetooth OBDII car Diagnostic scan Tool, from amazon, at $8.00 and the cvtz50 as you recommended. Seems to have worked great....bumped idle up 75 rpm and doubled my oil pressure at idle. Thanks again and again.
That's fantastic to hear. My concern though is when you say low oil pressure are you testing the actual value or just the gauge? If you have an actual low oil pressure that would be a concern or the oil pressure switch is bad.
@@autoxadvice4159 Nissan uses on my vehicle an idiot gauge. Not a real analog style gauge. Read my oil pressure with an aftermarket analog gauge as well as mechanical gauge to verify. After timing chain rebuild and new oil pump the oil pressure is still below my liking although the idiot gauge says all is well.
Alright, probably no harm then and just keep an eye on it. Yes most 2ndary gauges aren't marked with any but H or L. Which is a bit mind boggling because all of that information is right in the ECU. I guess I get why they keep all that hidden but on the flip side it could just be a diagnostic menu showing engine vitals for those that want to see it.
I know this is an old comment but something I just done to the pathfinder was change my timing chain and those lil o rings that are on timing cover, now I have some pretty steady oil pressure. I believe those o rings were the culprit for the lower pressure at idle.
I'm unfortunately not drawing the parallel between low idle and the orings. The idle is controlled by the ECM and manufacturers try and find the sweet spot between less rpms when idling before the engine cuts off. Moving idle from +50-+75 more smooths out what feels like the ECM catching itself before the engine cuts out.
Usually recalls are for major issues and safety related problems. So as long as the vehicle stays running and doesn't hurt the operations of the vehicle then it wouldn't be recalled. However if I'm not mistaken they have this issue listed in their TSBs (technical service bulletin). Thanks for watching and stopping by.
I know this is an older video so idk if anyone will see this but, I downloaded to cvt50z app and bought the elm 327 interface.. my 2014 frontier vibrates bad at idle once warm. I’ve been reading about it and seems that this app can fix it but can also mess things up. I’m nervous to try it… anyone have any input?
I replaced the timing chain and I suspect the ignition timing is off, my car is a 2006 pathfinder is there a way to try this out. The vehicle starts but has a very rough idle, I replaced the MAF and Throttle body with no change after the relearn steps
I'm going to say no this will not work for just idle at start. Only fixes right idle while in drive at a stop. Have you checked to make sure you have no vacuum or intake leaks?
So when I’m idling in my Nissan Pathfinder (4.0L), I get a noticeable rumble or vibration, but goes away if I shift into Neural or increase the RPMs a bit. Will this fix that issue?
I can't 100% guarantee this will work but since the engines and platform are the same I'm certain it will. The 4.0 was set at a bit too low of idle and giving it a bit more RPMs smooths out the feeling of missfire. Let me know how it goes if you try it.
@@autoxadvice4159 Thanks for your quick response. I’m going to try this. Do you think the dealer could do this procedure? I don’t have an OBD2 scanner to do this myself.
Dealer will more than likely not do this procedure I showed, but they can update the idle RPMs with their diagnosis tools (until CVTZ50 was identified as an app that could complete this procedure, people had to take theirs into the dealership). Expect to pay around $100 for it, and it should only take them 10-20 min to complete.
@@autoxadvice4159 after the Nissan dealer told me the belt pulley tensioner needed to be replaced and then my 4.0 Xterra still vibrated they said it was just a normal off road vehicle feeling and that they couldn't up the RPMs because it would just reset and do the same thing later. Do you ever have to reset this?
Where do we buy the tool for this or can Nissan just do this for me. I put a reco engine in my truck and replaced all sensors and vvt solenoids, same thing drives smooth idles high on startup but once warm idles rough like it's got a misfire and can here it ppppt ppppt out the exhaust like the timing is out or has a mis. Had new injectors, all engine sensors, 02 sensors, aftermarket cats, oxygen sensors and a new clutch installed at same time
Nissan can check the timing and maybe that could fix your idle timing in park. As for the fix in the video, this fixes low idle while in drive. Again, Nissan can up the idle speed in drive mode as well to smooth out what feels like a misfire. If you do it yourself you need an OBD2 reader (any of Amazon), an android device to install the app.
Good video! Turning your heating/cooling fan to 1 will bump up rpm 25-30. It helps my truck smooth out but it’s not perfect. Seems like +50rpm is the sweet dpot
I didn't test on a 2006 so I can't say 100%. However, lots of people have replied that it successfully worked for them and I'd see no reason or have heard no others saying it doesn't. Post up if you do try and it doesn't, but i think you'll have success.
I have a 2014 sv, 4.0. I’m routinely getting a “check engine” light when I first start my truck with a rough idle, although when I hook up my OBD2 scanner it says no codes found. I also have some stuttering hesitation when accelerating occasionally. Do you think this adjustment might fix that?
To be clear this only improves low idle shutter at a stop. The other is a timing advance but there is not much of change in feel from the engine from that advance. If you were to do this it wouldn't hurt, but sounds like you may have other issues. The CEL should always come on when starting but go off when the start produce does a quick diagnosis and after the engine is running. If the CEL is staying on and the truck is running rough that would lead me to think it's a misfire happening. Usually misfire codes are stored if it's a short misfire cycle. I know that doesn't help since you say you have no codes. However it could be a number of things that's would have to be tracked down and checked off the list too. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
If you're traction control light stays lit up too. I had to replace my battery fusible link 2x because of hesitation/ random engine cut outs in addition to getting a new positive batt. Connector. Also, after that the truck started bucking and dying in traffic 2 years ago. Changed out the cam sensor... truck did no crank/no start in driveway a few months ago. Needed a new starter. 70k 2012 nissan frontier sl 4.0
@@autoxadvice4159 It does work,(Timing and Idle) ,..The only caveat is ...The motor needs to be within 180-190f....If its lower or higher it will keep failing...I tested it ..
@pumacorp even on the 4cyl? If yes that's great to know. Correct, the truck needs to be up to temp, because at temp the engine controls take over and adjust timing based on external components like the knock sensor, O2s, etc.
The Bully Dog will do the idle increase too but that is $400-500. Getting the cvtz50 app plus a ECM Bluetooth connector is no more than $75-100 (assuming you already have an Android phone or you can borrow one).
Yes dealership has the ability in their scan tool to do this. You may want to contact them by stopping in and talking to them. If you call the service manager may blow you off or not understand what you are asking. Tell them you want to up the idle speed about 75rpm to get rid of the feeling of a misfire when at a stop
Mine idles smooth. Its the ac compressor kicking on and the cooling fan that I notice more than anything. In the winter with the ac off, it sounds like a sewing machine at idle.
What year is yours? On my 2012 even without the AC turning on it would feel like a misfire. That is very common on the 4.0. now with the issue it issues smooth and the AC kicking on is just a tiny glitch that you feel on any vehicle.
@@autoxadvice4159 Yeah I can hear it and feel the air blasting if you are standing next to it. I leave it idling while I work sometimes in the field if the grass isn't to tall or dry. I could see bumping it up a hair smoothing out a little though. I got use to it. I think it being a smaller midsize truck with not a lot of sound deadning kind of increases the feeling of the vibration and noise.
I get a little wavering in my rpms at a stop light with my AC on. It's not on max either. I see the battery fluctuate as well, so I think it's compensating for that. It's done it for a while now. But my main concern is a squealing sound coming from the back while moving and at a stop. If I put it in neutral, it stops. I haven't been able to catch it in my garage. I think it's more of a vibration causing it as I'm not moving when it happens usually. It's really annoying. Xterra.
Are you sure the squeaking is coming from the back? It sounds like maybe one of the pulleys is going bad. Bumping up the RPMs should fix your engine is kicking back up.
@@autoxadvice4159 when I get some time, I'm going to tighten everything down along the exhaust. I have a full set of skid plates, so most of those have to come off. I have some regular maintenance to do so they needed to come off sooner or later.
Thank you for sharing this video. There is remarkably little info to be found about what looks to be a common issue. My 40VQDE (Pathfinder) has a 5 degree difference between bank 1 and bank 2 causing the camshaft sensors to trigger a fault code. Is it possible to change the timing of the individual banks? The timing chain is newly replaced btw and to my knowledge adjusters were aligned to spec. Thanks!
Let's start with, are the cam sensors Nissan original, if no, then go install those first. As far as I know there is no way to adjust the timing on just one side vs the other. Was engine working before timing belt change?
That's a good point as maybe the cam gear was rotated and the chain not aligned probably while chain was being installed. AKA someone didn't check their work.
Firstly, thanks for the great video. I have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE (3.5L, 205K miles) with the same issue. In neutral, RPMs are at 750 and everything is smooth as glass. Shift into drive, RPMs drop to 650 and the shaking starts. If I give it a bit of gas with my other foot on the brake, at 700 RPM the shaking disappears, so it just needs a little bump up. Wondering if anyone has tried the CVTZ50 app fix with this specific year/model. Thanks in advance!
I haven't heard if anyone has used it on the 3.5 but the app does appear to work across other Nissan models. If you do try to post here so that others know if you had success.
Really appreciate this video. I have heard this is possible, your video makes it pretty easy to understand. I have a 2017 with the dreaded low idle shudder when the AC is on. I thought I had read somewhere on ClubFrontier that by 2017 Nissan had made a change to the system and this couldn't be done. Do you know of any news about that with the later models ? Or hopefully I am wrong. Because, I really want to smooth out how this truck idles. Drives me nuts. Thank You !
I have not heard that this couldn't be done on 2017+. Though mine is only 2012, however no one has yet come forward that is restricted in any way. Plus it also can be done on the Z as well.
I just made the mod on the 2017, no problem at all . I confused this with another thread I read on ClubFrontier about BullyDog tuners. Apparently they don't work well 2017 or newer .Anyway, my idle has smoothed, it's so much better -- Thanks for the video it gave me the motivation I needed to get this fixed. Still haven't changed the timing, I wanted to change only one thing at a time.
I bought a '15 Xterra Pro 4X with only 68K miles on it 2 months ago. I way over paid for a clean low milage used car in this market but thought I was getting a great rig until after a few days I started to notice the vibration and stop lights. I replaced the pulley tensioner and the belt, cleaned the throttle body and the plugs and it still does it. I was thinking I was going to have to do the engine mounts next or dump the rig for a loss it's that bad. I was just about to buy a Bully Dog tuner until I saw this video. I hope this works or gets the vibration down to a minimum. I just need to find and Android phone. Me and most of my friends and family are apple/mac based.
The issue you are experiencing is really normal as there is nothing inherently wrong. With that said it surely makes a rather smooth running rig feel like it has a missfire at a stop. It's made worse by the AC kicking in and even worse if the AC kicks in when the RPMs get kicked up by the ECM (together you think your truck is about to die). The procedure I outline will smooth that out and you can adjust it to what fits your liking. Let me know how it goes.
BTW the Bully Dog can perform the same RPM tweak too, if you decide to go that route. Of course it's more expensive but you would be given a lot more options too.
Just did both adjustments on my 2017 Pro 4X, it worked perfectly 👍Downloading the play store app on my Fire tablet was a real chore.👍 Followup : drove to Arizona and got a high MPG of 21.8 driveing between 60/65. Before making the idle and timing adjustments, I was getting 23MPG highway miles, but the truck was empty. The truck was loaded on my trip, which may make the lower MPG. I might set the timing back 2* to see if the MPG goes up.
Other factors can be in play besides total vehicle weight such as road gradient, wind speed and direction, tire condition and pressure, oil and fuel condition, driving habits and others!
Updating the timing can make small efficiency in base timing. The ecm over the period of driving will adjust timing and the knock sensor is there to have a check point to not allowing it to be trimed to high.
@@autoxadvice4159 Right, but this is what's not clear to me. Was this procedure reseting timing to original facotry setting? It seemed like you advenced the timing from the default position. How is it making things (?) more efficient? I'm geniunly interested in this because I already have the android app that I used on another car.
Did you do this because it was an issue or just a nuisance? I find when my Frontier is parked and idling with A/C on, the engine gets pulled down then revs up periodically. It doesn’t seem natural but has always done it. It appears to be when the compressor for the A/C kicks in but I can’t say that for sure. I’ve got a 2010 Frontier.
More of a nuisance fix from the complaints everyone has thinking it's a misfire. As you describe, bumping the rpms up will fix that. If left set to factory settings it will be fine.
Really??? Damn...I took my 2012 in to Nissan for low idle speed when it was still under warranty and they weren't able to fix it so I've been living with it for 10 years! 🤬 Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the feedback. I do need to go and fix these. This was caught in editing but for whatever reason (me releasing this too quick) was not fixed.
Great video. I used a BAFX OBDII reader on my 2012 Frontier SL 4x4. Added 75rpm and no more vibrating at idle. Thanks for the info.
Great to hear it worked and smoothed out your ride. It's def a nice little tweak.
Pretty cool, I never knew there was a fix for this. The idle has always bugged me in the 6 years I've had my Xterra. Gonna have to pick up a reader and the app. Thanks!
You can take it to the dealer and have them bump it up too, incase you don't want to buy the tools, but it will cost more. 😁
@@autoxadvice4159 I'm a heavy duty diesel mechanic and I'm always buying tools so that's not a problem. I have a nice scanner but it doesn't program. never had the need for one of the wireless ones till now. I didn't realize they had the ability to write to the ECM.
Thanks for the info....Battling low idle and low oil pressure, while at idle, in gear. I have the VQ40DE in a 2012, Nissan Frontier, crew cab, 4wd, automatic. I used the aoonav v1.5 Mini Bluetooth OBDII car Diagnostic scan Tool, from amazon, at $8.00 and the cvtz50 as you recommended. Seems to have worked great....bumped idle up 75 rpm and doubled my oil pressure at idle. Thanks again and again.
That's fantastic to hear.
My concern though is when you say low oil pressure are you testing the actual value or just the gauge? If you have an actual low oil pressure that would be a concern or the oil pressure switch is bad.
@@autoxadvice4159 Nissan uses on my vehicle an idiot gauge. Not a real analog style gauge. Read my oil pressure with an aftermarket analog gauge as well as mechanical gauge to verify. After timing chain rebuild and new oil pump the oil pressure is still below my liking although the idiot gauge says all is well.
Alright, probably no harm then and just keep an eye on it. Yes most 2ndary gauges aren't marked with any but H or L. Which is a bit mind boggling because all of that information is right in the ECU. I guess I get why they keep all that hidden but on the flip side it could just be a diagnostic menu showing engine vitals for those that want to see it.
I know this is an old comment but something I just done to the pathfinder was change my timing chain and those lil o rings that are on timing cover, now I have some pretty steady oil pressure. I believe those o rings were the culprit for the lower pressure at idle.
I'm unfortunately not drawing the parallel between low idle and the orings. The idle is controlled by the ECM and manufacturers try and find the sweet spot between less rpms when idling before the engine cuts off. Moving idle from +50-+75 more smooths out what feels like the ECM catching itself before the engine cuts out.
So glad I found this. I have that same issue on a 2012 Xterra P4X. Will have to try it. Not sure why they do a recall on this. Thank you.
Usually recalls are for major issues and safety related problems. So as long as the vehicle stays running and doesn't hurt the operations of the vehicle then it wouldn't be recalled. However if I'm not mistaken they have this issue listed in their TSBs (technical service bulletin).
Thanks for watching and stopping by.
I know this is an older video so idk if anyone will see this but, I downloaded to cvt50z app and bought the elm 327 interface.. my 2014 frontier vibrates bad at idle once warm. I’ve been reading about it and seems that this app can fix it but can also mess things up. I’m nervous to try it… anyone have any input?
The video explains how to change the idle RPMs. No issues so far on mine.
Others have commented here as well that they have had success too.
Hey man thanks for this video you helped me correct a low idle condition on my 2007 Nissan Pathfinder R51!
Excellent glad to hear it worked for you.
@@autoxadvice4159 I dont know why Nissan set the idle so low in these trucks...
Maybe to get you back into the dealership to correct it 😅. $$$$
I replaced the timing chain and I suspect the ignition timing is off, my car is a 2006 pathfinder is there a way to try this out. The vehicle starts but has a very rough idle, I replaced the MAF and Throttle body with no change after the relearn steps
I'm going to say no this will not work for just idle at start. Only fixes right idle while in drive at a stop.
Have you checked to make sure you have no vacuum or intake leaks?
So when I’m idling in my Nissan Pathfinder (4.0L), I get a noticeable rumble or vibration, but goes away if I shift into Neural or increase the RPMs a bit. Will this fix that issue?
I can't 100% guarantee this will work but since the engines and platform are the same I'm certain it will. The 4.0 was set at a bit too low of idle and giving it a bit more RPMs smooths out the feeling of missfire.
Let me know how it goes if you try it.
@@autoxadvice4159 Thanks for your quick response. I’m going to try this. Do you think the dealer could do this procedure? I don’t have an OBD2 scanner to do this myself.
Dealer will more than likely not do this procedure I showed, but they can update the idle RPMs with their diagnosis tools (until CVTZ50 was identified as an app that could complete this procedure, people had to take theirs into the dealership). Expect to pay around $100 for it, and it should only take them 10-20 min to complete.
@@autoxadvice4159 Ok, thanks for your help, this problem has been annoying me for a while. I’ll let you know if it works!
@@autoxadvice4159 after the Nissan dealer told me the belt pulley tensioner needed to be replaced and then my 4.0 Xterra still vibrated they said it was just a normal off road vehicle feeling and that they couldn't up the RPMs because it would just reset and do the same thing later. Do you ever have to reset this?
Where do we buy the tool for this or can Nissan just do this for me. I put a reco engine in my truck and replaced all sensors and vvt solenoids, same thing drives smooth idles high on startup but once warm idles rough like it's got a misfire and can here it ppppt ppppt out the exhaust like the timing is out or has a mis. Had new injectors, all engine sensors, 02 sensors, aftermarket cats, oxygen sensors and a new clutch installed at same time
Nissan can check the timing and maybe that could fix your idle timing in park. As for the fix in the video, this fixes low idle while in drive. Again, Nissan can up the idle speed in drive mode as well to smooth out what feels like a misfire.
If you do it yourself you need an OBD2 reader (any of Amazon), an android device to install the app.
Bro had the incognito tab pulled up on his phone 😂 nice video btw helped me out
Glad this worked out for you.
Good video! Turning your heating/cooling fan to 1 will bump up rpm 25-30. It helps my truck smooth out but it’s not perfect. Seems like +50rpm is the sweet dpot
Thanks for stopping by and watching.
Glad it's worked out for you.
will this program work on 2006 Nissan's frontier with 4.0 L to adjust the idle
I didn't test on a 2006 so I can't say 100%. However, lots of people have replied that it successfully worked for them and I'd see no reason or have heard no others saying it doesn't.
Post up if you do try and it doesn't, but i think you'll have success.
I have a 2014 sv, 4.0. I’m routinely getting a “check engine” light when I first start my truck with a rough idle, although when I hook up my OBD2 scanner it says no codes found. I also have some stuttering hesitation when accelerating occasionally. Do you think this adjustment might fix that?
To be clear this only improves low idle shutter at a stop. The other is a timing advance but there is not much of change in feel from the engine from that advance.
If you were to do this it wouldn't hurt, but sounds like you may have other issues. The CEL should always come on when starting but go off when the start produce does a quick diagnosis and after the engine is running. If the CEL is staying on and the truck is running rough that would lead me to think it's a misfire happening. Usually misfire codes are stored if it's a short misfire cycle. I know that doesn't help since you say you have no codes. However it could be a number of things that's would have to be tracked down and checked off the list too.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
If you're traction control light stays lit up too. I had to replace my battery fusible link 2x because of hesitation/ random engine cut outs in addition to getting a new positive batt. Connector. Also, after that the truck started bucking and dying in traffic 2 years ago. Changed out the cam sensor... truck did no crank/no start in driveway a few months ago. Needed a new starter. 70k 2012 nissan frontier sl 4.0
This truck does have rough idle/stalling out even shutting off while driving and I see allot of cam sensor replacements that happen.
Does this work for the 2.5 as well ?
I haven't heard nor have i seen it tested to confirm.
@@autoxadvice4159 It does work,(Timing and Idle) ,..The only caveat is ...The motor needs to be within 180-190f....If its lower or higher it will keep failing...I tested it ..
@pumacorp even on the 4cyl? If yes that's great to know. Correct, the truck needs to be up to temp, because at temp the engine controls take over and adjust timing based on external components like the knock sensor, O2s, etc.
@@autoxadvice4159 Yeah I just wanted to test it out so I can help others ..Great video on saving people money btw!
Is there any tuner apps for apple products that will accomplish this ?
Not that I'm aware of. However, androids are so cheap and or borrow a friends as last resort.
Thanks for stopping and asking a comment.
Where can I buy one of these that will do the same thing .. my Frontier idle is way to low
Amazon has a bunch of them. I can't really recommend any as the one in my video is so old but still works and I haven't had a reason to buy a new one.
Bullydog gt platinum
The Bully Dog will do the idle increase too but that is $400-500. Getting the cvtz50 app plus a ECM Bluetooth connector is no more than $75-100 (assuming you already have an Android phone or you can borrow one).
Does the engine have to be running while you make the adjustments?
Yes and warmed up as well. You can feel the rpms increase as you make the change if you are increasing the rpms.
Got it done and it worked great. It took a long time because my brand new odb2 device kept losing connection. Thanks for the help.
Great to hear.
How were you able to download the app using an up-to date android device? My play store says it's not compatible....
Thanks for sharing bought the stuff going to give this a try.
Make it happen.😂
Well got the stuff and my phone updated a week ago and it is not compatible now. Will what for update.
Is the app not compatible? It's Android correct?
Oh shit you’re the guy on Reddit my traction control quit working on my 2wd frontier ain’t been stuck since
Uh oh what did I do now, hopefully gave good advice?
How can I get this done locally? Will a dealership do this?
Yes dealership has the ability in their scan tool to do this. You may want to contact them by stopping in and talking to them. If you call the service manager may blow you off or not understand what you are asking.
Tell them you want to up the idle speed about 75rpm to get rid of the feeling of a misfire when at a stop
Love you videos. Great job man.
Thanks. Appreciate the support.
Mine idles smooth. Its the ac compressor kicking on and the cooling fan that I notice more than anything. In the winter with the ac off, it sounds like a sewing machine at idle.
What year is yours?
On my 2012 even without the AC turning on it would feel like a misfire. That is very common on the 4.0. now with the issue it issues smooth and the AC kicking on is just a tiny glitch that you feel on any vehicle.
@@autoxadvice4159 2017 SV 4x4 Automatic. I feel the cooling fan kick on and it vibrate some but the idle is smooth when the fan and ac are not going.
Are you sure it's your radiator clutch fan kicking on? Usually I never noticed mine running only at startup as it's loud.
@@autoxadvice4159 Yeah I can hear it and feel the air blasting if you are standing next to it. I leave it idling while I work sometimes in the field if the grass isn't to tall or dry. I could see bumping it up a hair smoothing out a little though. I got use to it. I think it being a smaller midsize truck with not a lot of sound deadning kind of increases the feeling of the vibration and noise.
I get a little wavering in my rpms at a stop light with my AC on. It's not on max either. I see the battery fluctuate as well, so I think it's compensating for that. It's done it for a while now. But my main concern is a squealing sound coming from the back while moving and at a stop. If I put it in neutral, it stops. I haven't been able to catch it in my garage. I think it's more of a vibration causing it as I'm not moving when it happens usually. It's really annoying. Xterra.
Are you sure the squeaking is coming from the back? It sounds like maybe one of the pulleys is going bad.
Bumping up the RPMs should fix your engine is kicking back up.
@@autoxadvice4159 I'm sure it's not the back. I've changed the belt and tensioner. It's roughly under the back seats and on the passenger side.
I'm thinking exhaust heat shield rattle?
@@autoxadvice4159 when I get some time, I'm going to tighten everything down along the exhaust. I have a full set of skid plates, so most of those have to come off. I have some regular maintenance to do so they needed to come off sooner or later.
Good luck. Post back here when you get it fixed.
Thank you for sharing this video. There is remarkably little info to be found about what looks to be a common issue. My 40VQDE (Pathfinder) has a 5 degree difference between bank 1 and bank 2 causing the camshaft sensors to trigger a fault code. Is it possible to change the timing of the individual banks? The timing chain is newly replaced btw and to my knowledge adjusters were aligned to spec. Thanks!
Let's start with, are the cam sensors Nissan original, if no, then go install those first.
As far as I know there is no way to adjust the timing on just one side vs the other.
Was engine working before timing belt change?
That sounds more like one of the cams is off a tooth and the sensors are reading correctly.
That's a good point as maybe the cam gear was rotated and the chain not aligned probably while chain was being installed. AKA someone didn't check their work.
Will this work on a 2015 Xterra?
Yes for the vq40de. The engines are the same.
I have a problem with vq40 de shift to R engine stop now its become D also I changed sparkplug tormoster ejector turning. As well now my RPM 500. 600
I'm not sure if I quite understand your issue.
Firstly, thanks for the great video. I have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE (3.5L, 205K miles) with the same issue. In neutral, RPMs are at 750 and everything is smooth as glass. Shift into drive, RPMs drop to 650 and the shaking starts. If I give it a bit of gas with my other foot on the brake, at 700 RPM the shaking disappears, so it just needs a little bump up. Wondering if anyone has tried the CVTZ50 app fix with this specific year/model. Thanks in advance!
I haven't heard if anyone has used it on the 3.5 but the app does appear to work across other Nissan models. If you do try to post here so that others know if you had success.
Really appreciate this video. I have heard this is possible, your video makes it pretty easy to understand. I have a 2017 with the dreaded low idle shudder when the AC is on.
I thought I had read somewhere on ClubFrontier that by 2017 Nissan had made a change to the system and this couldn't be done. Do you know of any news about that with the later models ? Or hopefully I am wrong. Because, I really want to smooth out how this truck idles. Drives me nuts. Thank You !
I have not heard that this couldn't be done on 2017+. Though mine is only 2012, however no one has yet come forward that is restricted in any way. Plus it also can be done on the Z as well.
I just made the mod on the 2017, no problem at all . I confused this with another thread I read on ClubFrontier about BullyDog tuners. Apparently they don't work well 2017 or newer .Anyway, my idle has smoothed, it's so much better -- Thanks for the video it gave me the motivation I needed to get this fixed. Still haven't changed the timing, I wanted to change only one thing at a time.
Timing change is mostly just at idle so you aren't going to gain/improve all that much.
I bought a '15 Xterra Pro 4X with only 68K miles on it 2 months ago. I way over paid for a clean low milage used car in this market but thought I was getting a great rig until after a few days I started to notice the vibration and stop lights. I replaced the pulley tensioner and the belt, cleaned the throttle body and the plugs and it still does it. I was thinking I was going to have to do the engine mounts next or dump the rig for a loss it's that bad. I was just about to buy a Bully Dog tuner until I saw this video. I hope this works or gets the vibration down to a minimum. I just need to find and Android phone. Me and most of my friends and family are apple/mac based.
The issue you are experiencing is really normal as there is nothing inherently wrong. With that said it surely makes a rather smooth running rig feel like it has a missfire at a stop. It's made worse by the AC kicking in and even worse if the AC kicks in when the RPMs get kicked up by the ECM (together you think your truck is about to die). The procedure I outline will smooth that out and you can adjust it to what fits your liking. Let me know how it goes.
BTW the Bully Dog can perform the same RPM tweak too, if you decide to go that route. Of course it's more expensive but you would be given a lot more options too.
Just did both adjustments on my 2017 Pro 4X, it worked perfectly 👍Downloading the play store app on my Fire tablet was a real chore.👍 Followup : drove to Arizona and got a high MPG of 21.8 driveing between 60/65. Before making the idle and timing adjustments, I was getting 23MPG highway miles, but the truck was empty. The truck was loaded on my trip, which may make the lower MPG. I might set the timing back 2* to see if the MPG goes up.
Glad to hear it worked for you. Thanks for stopping in and commenting.
Other factors can be in play besides total vehicle weight such as road gradient, wind speed and direction, tire condition and pressure, oil and fuel condition, driving habits and others!
I understand the idle RPM adjustment. I may have missed that part, but what were you trying to accomplish with the timing adjustment?
Updating the timing can make small efficiency in base timing. The ecm over the period of driving will adjust timing and the knock sensor is there to have a check point to not allowing it to be trimed to high.
@@autoxadvice4159 Right, but this is what's not clear to me. Was this procedure reseting timing to original facotry setting? It seemed like you advenced the timing from the default position. How is it making things (?) more efficient? I'm geniunly interested in this because I already have the android app that I used on another car.
Did you do this because it was an issue or just a nuisance? I find when my Frontier is parked and idling with A/C on, the engine gets pulled down then revs up periodically. It doesn’t seem natural but has always done it. It appears to be when the compressor for the A/C kicks in but I can’t say that for sure. I’ve got a 2010 Frontier.
More of a nuisance fix from the complaints everyone has thinking it's a misfire. As you describe, bumping the rpms up will fix that.
If left set to factory settings it will be fine.
Really??? Damn...I took my 2012 in to Nissan for low idle speed when it was still under warranty and they weren't able to fix it so I've been living with it for 10 years! 🤬 Thanks for the info!
Sweet I'm glad you got it fixed.
thx for the video my dude
You are welcome.
It's called OBD2 ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC 2 not odb. This was hard to hear over and over.
You must have the "old dirty bastard 2"
Thanks for the feedback. I do need to go and fix these. This was caught in editing but for whatever reason (me releasing this too quick) was not fixed.
It's OBD not ODB. You really should learn what your talking about if you run a channel called "AutoX Advice"
I believe when I edited I caught that and corrected. Are you volunteering your time to do the project work, sure could use it?
Thanks for the input.
Is there any tuner apps for apple products that will accomplish this ?
I haven't heard of anything yet but will keep my ears out. Android devices are cheap though so maybe just getting an older model would be easy.