Hey just wanted to say thank you for making these videos! It has been a huge help. I was able to get 2 different motors started today. I don't think I could have done it without you!. Thank you!
Thanks for the video I used it as a reference on mine. I just rebuilt mine for a 1969 case 580ck on the gate of the truck and it worked. There were two things I didn't see you do. One was to open the valve under the vanes for the lift pump. It is in there with a little hex set screw. The piston in there was crazy stuck. The other was the the spring piston on the fuel inlet fitting cap. Mine was super stuck. Also the pump won't prime dry you have to fill the inlet with fuel, then put the fitting on, then connect the fuel line.
I did notice that yours does not have the regulator in that lift pump. Mine has a piston/spring at about 2'oclock inside that housing on the back of the pump. It just basically recirculates the fuel in a Crile in that back cover if pressure gets to high in the lift pump. Everyday Projects channel had trouble with that, it would not start and he had missed cleaning that piston and it was not creating enough pressure to go to the main high pressure side and would not start. He got it figured out and he got it going.
So, it worked then? That's good! That is a carefully explained process and I thank you for showing the detail of every part going together. This may come in handy. Thanks again !
when i saw you pop the pressure pistons out in the dissassembly video, reminded me that those are supposed to be different for each side, they are like down to 1/10000 spec. i cleaned mine with 1000 grit sandpaper so the can be sure and pump even with rust in there. so they do even work out of spec.
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it, but the weight basket is supposed to be secured to the pump with an e-clip. When you reassembled, you put the basket in followed by the cam ring then followed but the pump. No Eclip....
My guess is when you got done rebuilding your injection pump it was air bound. I had the same problem and I hooked up an electric fuel pump to the injection pump and hook my drill to the driveshaft turned the fuel pump on and spun it with the drill. It took about a minute and the injection pump was pumping just fine.
Good, morning. thank, you for you're video. I've got a 1966, case ck 530 Diesel Backhoe. I, was digging stomps the other day and the Backhoe stopped running.. so I did not know what happen. so I called case to come out here to the farm. the case service truck came out to the farm the next day and he told me that the Diesel pump stopped working. he tested out the pump before taking it off of the Backhoe. what he found while the Backhoe stopped working. He told me that I the pump is geting fuel but the pump is not pushing fuel to the injectors. So he took the pump off of the Backhow and carried the pump back with him to the shop. then he called me back the next day and told me that he took the pump all apart he told me that the steel shaft inside the pump was broken in half and the pump was full of rust and it was all pitted up inside the pump. I, asked him could he rebuild the pump and he told me that he could not get the rebuild kit any more and it's best that I will by a new pump for $2100.00 for a new pump. I, told him that go ahead and order up a new replacement pump. Now I never got to see inside the pump but I know he's telling me right because the fuel tank on the Backhoe is full of rust. So now I'm going to take the fuel tank off of the Backhoe and and clean it out before the new pump gets here. again, thank you for you're video
It looked as though you were very careful during reassembling, I was sure it was going to work. I bet it was something small that you didn't catch. Did you make sure the check ball on the top cover was not stopped up? What was reason for the build anyway? Very nice informational video anyway. We all win some and lose some.
So just wondering what you did wrong because you were very careful and meticulous with reassemble and very thorough in explaining the process, So what did it cost to have it rebuilt and did they tell you what you did wrong ?
I noticed that you did not have the one piece weight wheel, and also that there was not a rubber/plastic between the rotor where you clipped it on and the back half of the weight wheel. Is that the part that messed you up and needed assistance?
I noticed he put the one piece weight inside the body instead of attaching it to shaft. The old retainer assembly should have been discarded and new one piece should have been attached to shaft with snap rig. So that it would go in together, instead of governor weights free floating not attached to shaft. But great video of explaining on how too 👍
@@AngelGarcia-jp6cd I will be putting mine back together in a week or so, can I get you to subscribe, I would like to film my assembly, it may help someone. Thanks.
@16:28 you put that weighted wheel in seperate of the rotor, then @17:33 you put the rotor piece in, I was wondering how they were attached, isn't that where the rubber piece goes. I understand the new one piece design, definitely much better that having that thing break apart, but in the video I did not see that goin in, was wondering how that worked. I am in the process of getting my pump ready to put back together, Every day Projects told me to watch your video as well as his for instruction. Thanks for getting back to me.
Keep in mind I was unsuccessful in the end and took it to a shop they used the weights I showed but I dident get to see them put it back together so I could be missing something
@@GRTRanchadventures Yeah, I saw that you mentioned that, maybe that was one of the issues. Good video though over all, great voice speed and you explain well. Appreciate it. #843 sub
could you post the link to the manual and the o-ring kit, please i am having a hard time finding them. thank you and again great step by step video, it has helped a lot.
The link to the parts diagram I had is now in the description as for the seal kit I just got it on ebay, just search Roosa master 431 46 aj and it should come up. That said mine still dident work and I had to take it to a shop. So best of luck and the parts only cost about $30 so it's worth a shot, but if your having trouble with it you may be money ahead to find a good diesel shop.
@@GRTRanchadventures Thank you for your help. i found the PDF and i found they guy you mentioned in your video. The kit if found is 24371 Kit, is this the one you found? thank you
im not sure they wouldn't say exactly what was wrong just that they rebuilt it, they also replaced the brass sealing surface on the drive shaft but that would not have kept it from pumping fuel so unfortunately im not sure what i was missing.
On these pumps there’s a cover u can pull off that shows your timing marks but before u pull the pump off put the engine on top dead center then when u go to put the pump back on use the timing marks on the inside to check the timing and make sure it’s timed by turning the engine over by hand 1 full rotation.
As long as you put it back together correctly so that the marks all line up and re install it on the machine so that the marks on the drive shaft match the marks in the pump the timing is done by rotating the pump on the machine, leave the bolts that mount it snug but loose enough that you can turn the whole pump. On mine, it started but was miss timed and as I loosened up the mounting screws it pulled itself into timing.
@@GRTRanchadventures thanks the lines are matching each others I took the injectors and try them out and can see them spry separately, the john deere 300B backhoe starts with starter spry, but can't start what else can I do you think?
@@CherbelGabro if the injectors are spraying fuel then the pump is probably fine, when you say the lines are spraying are they hooked up to the injectors and loosened a bit to bleed them? Also is yours a mechanical shutoff or does it have an electric solenoid? Also did you check to see if the injectors are clogged from when the pump went out?
@@GRTRanchadventures I installed brand new injectors and bled the lines, it's electric Solenoid which works perfectly, the only mistake I might have done is I turn the pump shaft on the tractor after taking the pump out and I'm guessing that changed the timing of the cylinders so it's not sync with spraying time, do you think that's possible?
@@CherbelGabro if it's like mine you can install the pump 180 degrees out of time which will cause it to not start but as long as you got the shaft the right way it should at least try to start it will just run terrible untill you clock the pump to fine tune the timing
YOU KNOW I DID FIND RUST INSIDE THE FUEL TANK AND I ASUME THAT THE RUST FROM THE FUEL TANK GOT IN TO THE PUMP. BUT THIS DID NOT ADD UP TO ME. HE TOLD ME THE GUY THAT WORKS AT CASE. HE TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT GET THE RWBUILD KIT FOR THE PUMP SEEMS LIKE HES TRAYING TO SELL ME A NEW PUMP . WHAT DO YOU THANK OF THIS.
Hey just wanted to say thank you for making these videos! It has been a huge help. I was able to get 2 different motors started today. I don't think I could have done it without you!. Thank you!
Thanks for the video I used it as a reference on mine. I just rebuilt mine for a 1969 case 580ck on the gate of the truck and it worked.
There were two things I didn't see you do.
One was to open the valve under the vanes for the lift pump. It is in there with a little hex set screw. The piston in there was crazy stuck.
The other was the the spring piston on the fuel inlet fitting cap. Mine was super stuck.
Also the pump won't prime dry you have to fill the inlet with fuel, then put the fitting on, then connect the fuel line.
Thank you for good video. Finally some explained measurements 👍👍👍god bless your ❤
I did notice that yours does not have the regulator in that lift pump. Mine has a piston/spring at about 2'oclock inside that housing on the back of the pump. It just basically recirculates the fuel in a Crile in that back cover if pressure gets to high in the lift pump. Everyday Projects channel had trouble with that, it would not start and he had missed cleaning that piston and it was not creating enough pressure to go to the main high pressure side and would not start. He got it figured out and he got it going.
So, it worked then? That's good! That is a carefully explained process and I thank you for showing the detail of every part going together. This may come in handy. Thanks again !
when i saw you pop the pressure pistons out in the dissassembly video, reminded me that those are supposed to be different for each side, they are like down to 1/10000 spec. i cleaned mine with 1000 grit sandpaper so the can be sure and pump even with rust in there. so they do even work out of spec.
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it, but the weight basket is supposed to be secured to the pump with an e-clip. When you reassembled, you put the basket in followed by the cam ring then followed but the pump. No Eclip....
My guess is when you got done rebuilding your injection pump it was air bound. I had the same problem and I hooked up an electric fuel pump to the injection pump and hook my drill to the driveshaft turned the fuel pump on and spun it with the drill. It took about a minute and the injection pump was pumping just fine.
Good, morning. thank, you for you're video. I've got a 1966, case ck 530 Diesel Backhoe. I, was digging stomps the other day and the Backhoe stopped running.. so I did not know what happen. so I called case to come out here to the farm. the case service truck came out to the farm the next day and he told me that the Diesel pump stopped working. he tested out the pump before taking it off of the Backhoe. what he found while the Backhoe stopped working. He told me that I the pump is geting fuel but the pump is not pushing fuel to the injectors. So he took the pump off of the Backhow and carried the pump back with him to the shop. then he called me back the next day and told me that he took the pump all apart he told me that the steel shaft inside the pump was broken in half and the pump was full of rust and it was all pitted up inside the pump. I, asked him could he rebuild the pump and he told me that he could not get the rebuild kit any more and it's best that I will by a new pump for $2100.00 for a new pump. I, told him that go ahead and order up a new replacement pump. Now I never got to see inside the pump but I know he's telling me right because the fuel tank on the Backhoe is full of rust. So now I'm going to take the fuel tank off of the Backhoe and and clean it out before the new pump gets here. again, thank you for you're video
Thank, you
It looked as though you were very careful during reassembling, I was sure it was going to work. I bet it was something small that you didn't catch. Did you make sure the check ball on the top cover was not stopped up? What was reason for the build anyway? Very nice informational video anyway. We all win some and lose some.
I rebuilt it because it stopped pumping, the check ball on the top cover is not there on this particular model
So just wondering what you did wrong because you were very careful and meticulous with reassemble and very thorough in explaining the process, So what did it cost to have it rebuilt and did they tell you what you did wrong ?
I noticed that you did not have the one piece weight wheel, and also that there was not a rubber/plastic between the rotor where you clipped it on and the back half of the weight wheel. Is that the part that messed you up and needed assistance?
No when I rebuilt it I used a one price flyweight system from stanadyne
I noticed he put the one piece weight inside the body instead of attaching it to shaft. The old retainer assembly should have been discarded and new one piece should have been attached to shaft with snap rig. So that it would go in together, instead of governor weights free floating not attached to shaft. But great video of explaining on how too 👍
@@AngelGarcia-jp6cd I will be putting mine back together in a week or so, can I get you to subscribe, I would like to film my assembly, it may help someone. Thanks.
WHAT DID THE SHOP CHARGE TO REBUILD IT ?
@16:28 you put that weighted wheel in seperate of the rotor, then @17:33 you put the rotor piece in, I was wondering how they were attached, isn't that where the rubber piece goes. I understand the new one piece design, definitely much better that having that thing break apart, but in the video I did not see that goin in, was wondering how that worked. I am in the process of getting my pump ready to put back together, Every day Projects told me to watch your video as well as his for instruction. Thanks for getting back to me.
With the new weights you don't use the rubber flex ring, that's one of the advantages because they are known to fall apart
Keep in mind I was unsuccessful in the end and took it to a shop they used the weights I showed but I dident get to see them put it back together so I could be missing something
@@GRTRanchadventures Yeah, I saw that you mentioned that, maybe that was one of the issues. Good video though over all, great voice speed and you explain well. Appreciate it. #843 sub
could you post the link to the manual and the o-ring kit, please i am having a hard time finding them. thank you and again great step by step video, it has helped a lot.
The link to the parts diagram I had is now in the description as for the seal kit I just got it on ebay, just search Roosa master 431 46 aj and it should come up. That said mine still dident work and I had to take it to a shop. So best of luck and the parts only cost about $30 so it's worth a shot, but if your having trouble with it you may be money ahead to find a good diesel shop.
@@GRTRanchadventures Thank you for your help. i found the PDF and i found they guy you mentioned in your video. The kit if found is 24371 Kit, is this the one you found? thank you
@@oldjeep225 ya that looks like it
@@GRTRanchadventures thanks, greatly appreciate it.
@@oldjeep225 I cannot find that pdf. I clicked on the link to stanadyne but can’t find the pdf.
So what did the rebuild shop do differently ? Did you miss something or something not in right place or orientation ??
im not sure they wouldn't say exactly what was wrong just that they rebuilt it, they also replaced the brass sealing surface on the drive shaft but that would not have kept it from pumping fuel so unfortunately im not sure what i was missing.
So what was the problem that the shop fixed? Vanes?
All they told me was that there were several things out of spec and that they rebuilt it and bench tested it so I don't really know...
@@GRTRanchadventures Which shop did you use? I'm having the same problem and would rather have a known good shop do the rebuild. Thanks!
@@kennyseliga5411 diesel service co out of ft smith
You didn’t show the flex connector for the weight cage
Because I replaced it with the modern one piece system that doesn't use the flex ring
So, did you have to set the timing when you put the pump back on? And what did you do to time it ?
Thank you
On these pumps there’s a cover u can pull off that shows your timing marks but before u pull the pump off put the engine on top dead center then when u go to put the pump back on use the timing marks on the inside to check the timing and make sure it’s timed by turning the engine over by hand 1 full rotation.
Boa Noite!
Enviar a tabela,de montagem e testes!
Obrigado!
hi do I need to time the injectors pump after rebuilding it and how to do that?
As long as you put it back together correctly so that the marks all line up and re install it on the machine so that the marks on the drive shaft match the marks in the pump the timing is done by rotating the pump on the machine, leave the bolts that mount it snug but loose enough that you can turn the whole pump. On mine, it started but was miss timed and as I loosened up the mounting screws it pulled itself into timing.
@@GRTRanchadventures thanks the lines are matching each others I took the injectors and try them out and can see them spry separately, the john deere 300B backhoe starts with starter spry, but can't start what else can I do you think?
@@CherbelGabro if the injectors are spraying fuel then the pump is probably fine, when you say the lines are spraying are they hooked up to the injectors and loosened a bit to bleed them? Also is yours a mechanical shutoff or does it have an electric solenoid? Also did you check to see if the injectors are clogged from when the pump went out?
@@GRTRanchadventures I installed brand new injectors and bled the lines, it's electric Solenoid which works perfectly, the only mistake I might have done is I turn the pump shaft on the tractor after taking the pump out and I'm guessing that changed the timing of the cylinders so it's not sync with spraying time, do you think that's possible?
@@CherbelGabro if it's like mine you can install the pump 180 degrees out of time which will cause it to not start but as long as you got the shaft the right way it should at least try to start it will just run terrible untill you clock the pump to fine tune the timing
how much did the rebuild cost?
About $700
YOU KNOW I DID FIND RUST INSIDE THE FUEL TANK AND I ASUME THAT THE RUST FROM THE FUEL TANK GOT IN TO THE PUMP. BUT THIS DID NOT ADD UP TO ME. HE TOLD ME THE GUY THAT WORKS AT CASE. HE TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT GET THE RWBUILD KIT FOR THE PUMP SEEMS LIKE HES TRAYING TO SELL ME A NEW PUMP . WHAT DO YOU THANK OF THIS.
You can get the rebuild kid to replace all the gaskets and such and a new weight carrier but I don't know about the other parts
LL