I always just swap the top with the bottom clip, mash one flat and curl the other to use as a solder lug. In order to keep from melting any plastic, I always take my copper clips off to do the soldering. Also helps to have a 4 inch vise on your workbench. Disassemble trucks and use Dremel tool to remove rust. Cheers from eastern TN
Nicely done. I'd like to see how you install the lights into the housings sometime. I'm sure it is pretty simple once you see it lol. Thanks for sharing 🤠
Mate I always look forward to your video's which have given me a hell of knowledge that other presenters have not. Admiring the presentation I wondered if you could swap the brush retaining clips thereby having no need of cutting the tabs as the former bottom clip would now on the top
Another great video Solo Contracting. I always learn from watching you. One thing I do is flip the motor brush straps. This eliminates having to cut off and file the remainder tabs and enables me to cut off about a third of the motor brush spring on both springs in the process, reducing the pressure of the springs on the commutator thus reducing the amperage on the motor. Thank You for another day in school.
Good video. You could have fully disassembled the locomotive first before starting the modifications. This is like putting the toothpaste on your teeth first then trying to use the brush to collection enough paste off your teeth to brush teeth. Yet you did an excellent job. Thanks.
Great video. I enjoy watching it and letting it play while working or doing switchng on my HO scale layout. I got a 5-pole A-line motor in my SW1500. The motor sits actually lower in the modified frame. That gives more head room between the shell and the motor. It's not a lot, but just enough. Hope this helps.
Great video, have a few Athearn BB switchers that might appreciate a decoder upgrade. Other than the the decoder how much other stuff you need to get up and running> Benn using digitrax and TSU.
Solo,what no ditch lights,and beacon,and we need a engineer waving,and fireman shoveling coal.Maybe some Photon torpedoes and definitely faser cannons,stay well and boy are you patient.I am very jealous .beartraps out
They can be installed and then programmed with a sound file. Or you can program them and then install the decoder. If you don't have a programmer, most ESU dealers will install the sound file for you.
I’ve seen either from you our another video where soldering on the center of the brass motor pickups was not the preferred way to wire in the motor. Is there a reason for using the end over the middle of the brass clip
Added note those ESU decoders are fussy ,when it comes to keep/stay alives. supposedly it voids the warranty!Too much capacitance,not sure how that is true.But I have only been working on electronics for the last 1/2 century!!BC
My husband loves this video, he has been trying to do the same thing to his 1500 switcher, what was the part number for the decoder? And did you download the sound yourself. Thank you for great video.
I always just swap the top with the bottom clip, mash one flat and curl the other to use as a solder lug. In order to keep from melting any plastic, I always take my copper clips off to do the soldering. Also helps to have a 4 inch vise on your workbench. Disassemble trucks and use Dremel tool to remove rust. Cheers from eastern TN
Nicely done. I'd like to see how you install the lights into the housings sometime. I'm sure it is pretty simple once you see it lol. Thanks for sharing 🤠
This is the method i use to install lights. ua-cam.com/video/nY-K6dTh7v0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching.
Mate I always look forward to your video's which have given me a hell of knowledge that other presenters have not. Admiring the presentation I wondered if you could swap the brush retaining clips thereby having no need of cutting the tabs as the former bottom clip would now on the top
Yes, that is possible. Thanks for watching.
Another great video Solo Contracting. I always learn from watching you. One thing I do is flip the motor brush straps. This eliminates having to cut off and file the remainder tabs and enables me to cut off about a third of the motor brush spring on both springs in the process, reducing the pressure of the springs on the commutator thus reducing the amperage on the motor. Thank You for another day in school.
Fantastic job! I have a bb sw1500 that needs a sound decoder. There's not much room to work with but your video is inspiring.
555 is always fun brother and most of us are not engineers.
The black electrical tape will not take the heat. Capton tape is best. Otherwise good interesting job. Could you install a genesis motor in this unit?
Good video. You could have fully disassembled the locomotive first before starting the modifications. This is like putting the toothpaste on your teeth first then trying to use the brush to collection enough paste off your teeth to brush teeth. Yet you did an excellent job. Thanks.
Great video. I enjoy watching it and letting it play while working or doing switchng on my HO scale layout. I got a 5-pole A-line motor in my SW1500. The motor sits actually lower in the modified frame. That gives more head room between the shell and the motor. It's not a lot, but just enough. Hope this helps.
Those lights are PERFECT Sir!!!
Very nice, great install. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Great instalation ,given great ideas for a sw7 cow and calf project that has been gathering dust on the shelve😀
Great video, have a few Athearn BB switchers that might appreciate a decoder upgrade. Other than the the decoder how much other stuff you need to get up and running> Benn using digitrax and TSU.
0402 warm white leds, styrene,wire and sugar cube speakers
@@SoloContracting What size styrene did you use for the motor beam support?
.100" for the styrene
@@SoloContracting Awesomeness!
Solo,what no ditch lights,and beacon,and we need a engineer waving,and fireman shoveling coal.Maybe some Photon torpedoes and definitely faser cannons,stay well and boy are you patient.I am very jealous .beartraps out
Phasers and torpedoes coming in a few weeks. I was waiting on one last piece and it didn't get here in time. Thanks for watching.
Not sure why you would put the tape on sound output side of the speaker? Maybe you can explain.
Great job,looks great. Maybe you could try an Atlas hh660, ho scale
I'll have a video out in a few weeks of the Atlas HH660.
who makes the decoder
ESU
@@SoloContracting Thank you
Do ESU sound decoders have to be programmed before you can use them, or can you install them and you’re good to go?
They can be installed and then programmed with a sound file. Or you can program them and then install the decoder. If you don't have a programmer, most ESU dealers will install the sound file for you.
I’ve seen either from you our another video where soldering on the center of the brass motor pickups was not the preferred way to wire in the motor. Is there a reason for using the end over the middle of the brass clip
Great Video
Added note those ESU decoders are fussy ,when it comes to keep/stay alives. supposedly it voids the warranty!Too much capacitance,not sure how that is true.But I have only been working on electronics for the last 1/2 century!!BC
My husband loves this video, he has been trying to do the same thing to his 1500 switcher, what was the part number for the decoder? And did you download the sound yourself. Thank you for great video.
56899 is the part number. Yes, I loaded the sound from one of ESU's files.
@@SoloContracting Thank you
One more thing what motor did you put in the switcher? Thanks in advance
I used a stock Athearn motor from another SW1500, that i bought from Ebay.
It takes you 2 + hrs.to dcc an athearn blue box loco?
The test bed wheel stand, where did you find that? Thanks
They are from a Canadian company that went out of business. Bachrus was the name. Bachmann makes something similar. EZ roller is what they call them.