Atari PAPERBOY Arcade game FIXED with a 25 cent FUSE!
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2020
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I love how you leave no stone unturned in repairing these. You're meticulous about making sure everything works, not just the problem they ask for you to repair.
We try to do what we can while it's here!
It is always comforting to see someone my age who's spent his life with these games as I have, who's worse at them than I am. :)
Thanks for the video.
gotta wonder how much of the suck is lcd lag though
Some of it's lag, but in general I'm not very good at most games, LOL
PAPERBoy is a hard one no matter who you are,lol. LCD lag is nominal, not enough to all of the sudden a cars in the way.
Always loved Paperboy! I remember playing this at my Pizza Hut back in the day. I had a crowd watching me because I was getting pretty far and always made it to the training course!
It's such a cool game but steep learning curve :)
That moving piece is creating micro-arcs and overwhelming the fuse so no wonder it’s blowing itself to hell! Tighten that puppy up! ⚡️
I am so used to seeing things inside and never on the door. Interesting to see that.
There's a few of them they did like that, it really helps!
Played this a ton back in the day...got pretty good at it too. I've never seen inside of one of these cabinets though...that game board is HUGE!
Yes it is, I should have shown it off a little more in the video.... pretty wild!
The picture looks better now that you dialed it in. Love your videos!
Thanks Amagley, we appreciate it!
Such a cool classic! Was never any good at this one lol, but still liked playing it.
Great job on the fix! 👍
Thanks Silly Sausage, we appreciate it!
@@LyonsArcade You got it! 👍
Now THAT'S a good looking machine. Great job.
Are you just saying that, because your picture is on it????? LOL Thanks for watching man!
Good to see you know about slow and fast blow fuses. With a capacitor that big, the inrush current is very high. A slow blow will absorb that peak current. I noticed that loose fuse holder spade terminal and was waiting for it to current limit :-) Nice fix and a good reminder to your viewers that you don't put any old fuse in. There are reasons why the "funny looking" fuses are there!
Yes they all have specific purposes!
This was the first game I ever "rage-quit" on the original NES...
I remember playing it back then and not even seeing how I could possibly get anywhere, LOL
I love your videos. I binged watched almost all of them in the past couple of months :). I think that image looks a little bright to me but could be the settings on my monitor.
I had a guy earlier tell me it was too dark, LOL I guess it depends on how you see it in person... we appreciate you watching all the videos Rastan, that's really cool... we have many more coming :)
20:46 now, You - have a friend, in the paper business 🗞️🚴🏘️📭🛹🐕
Yes we do :)
Between this channel and the Guitologist (+ Coldwarmotors) my project corner is starting to look like A&E Hoarders! Great repair
Thanks, we appreciate you hanging out with us :)
Tweaking pots made me think of how we're accustomed to the luxury of Hantarex monitors and their remotes over here in Europe. The few times I've had to work from the back of a cab I used to set up a mirror to guide me and save time and bother.
The Hantarex monitors have a great picture. I've never been too good at fixing them, but they look very nice when they're working :)
Yep "hen's teeth " is a thing along with "rocking horse shit"..and yeah way better with the colour scales set properly...nice vid!
Thanks Andymouse, we appreciate you watching :) I've never heard of Rocking Horse Shit I'll have to steal that one :)
@@LyonsArcade LOL that even somewhat works in Finnish... Heiluva hevonpaska!
Cheap fixes arent always easy and easy fixes arent always cheap..
Proved both wrong!
Its crazy when the fuses "look" good but they blow behind the silver cap end.
Man ive had so many issues fixed by ohming out fuses and cleaning connections with Deoxit D5
Yeah usually it's not just the fuse that's why I titled it like this, this may be the rare occasion :)
Yeah, I remember this game... There's one at a pizza joint around the corner... I saw this, got all reminiscent and went and played it... I suck at it just as much as I did when I was a kid...
(BTW, the display on that one was all blown out with burn in...) This one looks PERFECT now...
Easy fix for you on that one. I feel like I watched u work on this one not too long ago =) Another job well done!
It was about 7 months ago I think, we got it back in :)
Summer of '85. The gas station on the corner of Center and Main in downtown Logan Utah. I put way too many quarters in that darn machine only to crash out on easy street every single time.
Join the club man I can't get anywhere on it :) It's funny how we can remember where we played stuff like this back in the day, though!
@@LyonsArcade Same gas station had a Ghosts and Goblins right next to the paperboy. They must have enjoyed hearing cuss words.
I have a fever for that Atari cowbell.
And the paper boy will bring my prescription.
Hopefully he won't break my windows.
Before the morning done.
Go ahead and sample it man they'll never know where it came from :)
Until the copyright Botts come after me..
Just tell you don't know me.
Hopefully that Will keep them off my tracks.
Nice work Ron! Great video!
Thanks Shane! How's Lincolnton???
Game is very hard to master and I love it!
love this classic electronics i repair and build vintage vale amps and solid state gear
Very cool, thanks for watching Ian, we appreciate it!
Remember if a 20A Slow Blo fuse goes, it'll cost you about $5 to buy just one of these (know from experience). Most electric companies (like Mouser or another commercial electrical supply company) charge you more if you don't bulk buy. Your typical big box store doesn't carry Slow Blo fuses. When the Slow Blo fuse died on my Ampeg bass rig, it cost me $7 dollars for one (with tax).
Yeah that sucks! What we always do is, since we have a store, we just buy in bulk, spend a bunch more money but next time we'll have the part. So it works out for us long term but it's expensive either way!
I like how when he sees the cars coming, he throws a paper at them...lol Like that's gonna stop them..lol
Maybe it’ll make them wreck!
@@LyonsArcade Like in the movies when someone being chased knocks over a stack of garbage cans, so the guy behind him trips on them and he gets away!
I'm internet famous! Not sure why my comment disappeared (I didn't delete it), but no big deal. Glad you got it sorted!
To kill sprite glitches, drop the sharpness to zero - on LCD panels, that applies a sharpening feature to the signal, which results in halos and other oddities. As far as the other controls go, you found out they're all approximations of what CRTs and NTSC did... and none are perfect reproductions. But in general, brightness = black level, contrast = white level, and intensity = gamma curve.
Loving the adjusted look!
We got it looking pretty good all things considered, yeah I couldn't find your comment maybe it was on another video or something!
Thank you, Joe's Classic Video Games, seeing this particular Paperboy with an LCD monitor vs CRT this would definitely be something I'd have done to many vintage arcade cabinets. Just much larger and frameless.
Thanks for showing how to check/test that bridge rectifier, but yah that fuse holder was interesting.
Thanks Spider, glad you liked it :)
Paperboy was fun! Reminds me of Tapper for some reason
Same kind of graphics, looks kind of cartoony but in a cool way.... Plus the gameplay is similar, you're delivering papers, you're delivering beers :)
I think it looks much better now.
You can see the details of the bricks in the walls
I think so too, I didn't even notice it before and 1 viewer mentioned it, ha!
Well this gives me hope to revive a no image issue on the cheap in a Super Chase that is currently collecting dust. Powers up fine with game noise but nothing on screen. Cheers!
Time to dig it out and fix it!
I was wondering why on the title screen newspaper "Paperboy" flashed on for just a split second. Once you adjusted it it made more sense. Looks nice the way you changed it. I had Paperboy as a Tiger handheld. Nearly impossible on there too. I played it on NES too and it was equally hard.
Wow I can't imagine it as a tiger handheld, that must have been infuriating since everything's so small :) Like playing some of the games like that on the Gameboy :)
Nice easy repair.👍
Wasn't too bad!
Playing that game as a kid I got my money's worth. I love it
I never got my quarters worth :)
another great video game from my childhood
It's pretty legendary :) Thanks for watching!
Picture is so much better after you tweaked it. But to me it looks like the red is bleeding a bit into the white, maybe would leed a little more red adjustment. But that could as well be the video quality! Good work!
Thank you Lafayette Ronald we appreciate you checking it out, I can see what you're talking about not sure if it was the video quality or not though like you said.... fun game to work on though! We'll see you on the next video!
I looked up that on the Internet and somebody got it up to 100,000 and what a cool game‼️®™️ 👏👏
Ah, I do remember this cabinet. The one with the wonky speaker issue, if memory serves. Best of luck with this one in the future; once is an accident, twice is a coincidence... three times? Gremlin Curse.
Yeah, LOL Some of these are possessed!
I wonder why the original manufacturer didn’t put a little of the white thermal paste under the bridge rectifier. The ones on the welding machines we work on at the shipyard have them like that, but then those run a bit higher voltage and amperage.
Now that you mention it I don't think they ever did in that particular application.... Thanks for watching John!
You should replace the whole fuse bank the corrosion will increase the resistance leading to extra heat that can remelt the solder. Also without the CRT it probably doesn’t need a 20amp fuse.
I actually did, good catch :) I ordered another one and they actually even have the screw holes in the new fuse holders that line up exactly with this one. They're the type that have 12 positions, and you can break them into smaller ones.
Good job fella
Thanks Mystical Ninja we appreciate that :)
One major thing I like about the LCD is no burn in. I used to hate going to arcahes that has the "Amazing Paperboy" attraction screen burned in. It wa distracting during play.
There are also settings for the monitor usually somewhere along the bottom of the front of the monitor.
That's true!
Paperboy is a Huge arcade quarter stealer
From me, definitely, I can't get anywhere on it!
I loved this game back then. Now when I’m driving down some street with tons of hazards I say “this is like paperboy out here” and no one ever gets it. Dang it.
I think it's funny Scott, so at least there's that :) Thanks for watching!
Holy cow batman that is a HUGE board.
It's about the biggest they made, there were a few like NARC that had a rom board with like 100 roms on it, so those are kind of crazy too.... thanks for watching David!
I so envy you... If only my Spy Hunter was this easy. Crossing my fingers didn't pan out.
Yeah man it's never a fuse but this time it was (or the fuse holder at least)
nice work
Thanks John, we appreciate you watching!
I always sucked at paperboy too! I love it when the fix is the infamous fuse. Too bad they made that thing with the medium resolution monitor. Probably seemed like a good idea at the time. The LED is excusable in this case.
I agree, what are you gonna do if you're missing one of those, it's pretty tough to cobble one together.... It's up and running so that's what's important :)
good work joe´s
Thank you Wilder!
Finally Ron re-fuses to repair a game.
You. I see what you did there.
@@LyonsArcade Well, I tried :D
@17:02. The 10.6 volt leads were probably showing 15v because they didn't have a load on them.
Yes sir, thank you Robert!
Another good one Ron... You ever consider showing a few clips of soldering work, or would the know it all "expert" solder-trolls make it not worth it?
That's probably the main reason I don't, LOL. All the armchair quarterbacks waiting to tell me how that game I just fixed I didn't fix right. Meanwhile I've fixed 20 more since the video was shot and they're still weighing their options :)
Awesome stuff as always! I was looking at the games you have for sale on the site and saw a few multigame cabinets. Whats your opinion on those 60 in 1 boards? I was thinking of getting one and mounting it in a coffee table with an LCD TV. Good idea or not?
Sure thing! They play pretty good for what they are...
that spad plug on that 20-000 MA fuse connector looks corroded if so will cause high resistance so when the unit starts to draw currant it will get hot and draw more than 20-000 MA
Three cheers for keeping it at 25 cents! ;)
He may have bumped it up back on location, I'm not sure...
Ok, so the way the PCB is mounted on the door is pretty cool. Kinda right there in your face, no need to go digging around. I could never play this game with any kind of success. I was terrible, just terrible.
Yeah I'm horrible at it!
The fuse looks like it failed in a controlled manner. That usually indicates something that is only just going out of tolerance.
If it was a short circuit type failure (AKA, bridge rectifier failed short) the fuse would usually pop violently and look all black inside.
That would be a tricky situation to troubleshoot if it is ongoing.
The loose fuse holder could cause a fuse to fail if it was arcing a bit or not making good contact. I think you might have solved this one.
I hope so! We put a whole new fuse holder in it after the video just to make it more solid.
Man, that's a huge MB!
Probably the largest in any arcade game!
@@LyonsArcade Largest in ANYTHING I've seen so far!
It's two pieces if you look in the middle they join, I HAVE seen a larger one in a wall game, they have these big games where a game hangs on the wall and you shoot a light gun at it, the entire size of the game is one big pcb with lights mounted everywhere.
Joe says he dose not know who to explain why the 10V was 15V. It's because when it's NOT "Under Load"* the voltage will be higher. When you put a load on it the line WILL be "Under Load" and so the voltage will drop. When a load is connected to a unregulated PSU the voltage will drop as the load increases.
*"Under" in this case is like when we say "I am under pressure to get this done." NOT like "the car tyre is under pressure so needs pumping up"
So you had it down when you brought the brightness down and that would make it really good cuz you have five lines from both of those that might even give you almost 10 it's bringing those two down to like 40
Just wondering why you don’t use the continuity buzzer on your meter when checking fuses, would be easier with audio feedback.
I don't really trust it, I'd rather see the ohms it reads.
someone should hook up a bike to this cab as a controller, like they had in that balloon popping game.. Prop Cycle. played one at Timewarp arcade in Bridgwater UK (paddles were a bit messed up on it though). it has a fan kinda like Williams' Whirlwind with speed varying based on gameplay. it's surprisingly effective, not just a gimmick. IMO they should've tried more of that "4D" type of stuff back in the day.
or it'd be nice to see how it'd play with one meant to say, not that I have power over other people's machines. on second thought it's probably hard enough game without having to exercise at the same time, would need some gameplay changes with a new controller..
hydraulics/haptic feedback were also probably quite expensive back in the day, and wind has limited uses, don't want that on maraton play sesssions. so, nvm :)
When they make games that are large or have strange things like that they tend to make more money on locations because you can't play anything like that at home!
If you look in your video at that wire on that new fuse connector you can see it arcing
After we fixed it? After the video was over we replaced the entire fuse panel once the new one came in so we shouldn't have any issues :)
Always nice when it's a simple fix. However, my idea of a true fix would be to swap the LCD for a CRT and remove the screen bezel. Didn't these ship with a black one..?
Yes, I guess when they put the LCD in they put that bezel on there to hide the LCD frame. To install a medium res Wells Gardner 19" CRT you're looking at about $700, used. I'm leaving the LCD in...
I have a paperboy and I swear dialing in the monitor is tough on this game! Always close but seemingly just always a bit off. Could that be a cap issue?
This one's got an LCD so I suppose it could still be a cap but yeah it's just a strange game as far as the colors, etc. go. We got it though :)
Not sure if it's just due to the camera, but the image still looks a little dark. Are you able to increase the intensity of the LCD's backlight?
We had to turn the colors down to get the nuance in the graphics back, it's a little darker though for sure!
but what making the fuse blow? maybe there is some kind of load that is too much for the fuse to handle is that lcd screen too much for the p/s?
The loose fuse holder was the original problem, the tech on location working on it called me and we decided to replace the bridge rectifier, when he replaced it on location he wired it up wrong and blew the fuse... he then rewired the rectifier right but never caught the blown fuse. So once I replaced the blown fuse it wouldn't work because the original problem, the loose holder, was still a problem.
Color is definitely better. You can now see the “paperboy” turn from white to black in the daily sun paper. Instead of it flashing black only.
Well done. I hated this game, cause quite frankly. I s@ck3d at this game.
Me too JD.. super, super tough game!
It's amazing hour the right power/voltage can affect the game and it's playing (like a small sprite glitch). I recently received a cocktail Donkey Kong from my daughter's boyfriend's family. It wasn't working. Turns out they had the wrong size fuse in the power supply. Went I took it apart, it had a regular size 5amp Slow-Blow in there. It's should be the smaller F A, and a 4 amp fast blow. I had to order those. I put the right one in and it fired right up. I offered it back to them since it was a simple fix, but they said I could keep it. Now I have a Donkey Kong Cocktail for about 5 bucks paid to Amazon. Nice work fixing this one.
Nice find, love anything Nintendo!
So the regulator regulates?
I am guessing.
Regulators let's regulates!
Now I wish I remember the lyrics to that Warren G song.
Jusss hitt da east side... a da El Be Cee... on a Mission Tryna Find Mister Warren Geee
Did you determine if it needed the 25A vs the 20A fuse? Video didn't go back (I think)
Thanks!
Sorry Bob I forgot to check! Once I found the fuse holder so screwed up and the bridge hanging off I forgot all about it....
I guess I should just rewatch instead of asking but I will ask anyway. Did you find out if it was the model that required the 25 amp instead of the 20?
Steve I forgot to look after I found the screwed up bridge and fuse holder, if they call and say it's broke I'll tell them to bump it up!
stick a screwdriver across the terminals on the filter capacitor
It's only on the 10 volt line, I've never had it bite me.
Measure with voltage across the fuse (power on) you should not get voltage if the fuse is good.
How would breakers work in place of the fuses? Obviusly it would require attaching a rail to hold them somewhere on the cabinet, and running wires form the PSU... At least the Simens, Hager, ABB etc. European DIN rail mounted breakers have been successfully used in low voltage DC applications.
I'm sure you could do that, some of the older power supplies did have circuit breakers in them, mainly the Cinematronics games.
You can buy circuit breaker’s that fit in automotive fuse holders now. Wiedmuller and Phoenix Contact make them.
Wish you would have videoed the fuse holder fix.
After the video we ordered a new fuse block and replaced the entire thing.
IT was shortly after Paperboy came out that Skate Or DIe! came out and that It was then go to game for a while.
Skate or Die was so cool, I played it back in the day on the NES all the time!
Here's an interesting bit of trivia (Well, *I* thought it was interesting, at least..); The Paperboy handlebar control was based on a modified version of the Star Wars Yoke control. The more you know... :-)
That is interesting , thanks Dave!
First rule of repair. Check voltages before taking things apart. ;-)
I did :)
awesome ‼️®™️
Replacing a CRT with an LCD/flat-screen in an arcade machine is the assassination of cool
Was it the correct fuse for the revision of psu?
Yes it was, I forgot about that part though :)
Just a fuse !? WHOWWW
Usually needs much more!
the DC voltage is not loaded that why it high
Where can i get fuses? Slow blow?
You can still get some at auto parts stores or you can buy them online from www.Newark.com .
That looks like a GBS-8200 video converter; I have one of those, and it's garbage. Lots of artifacts around moving objects (which is prob. what you're seeing around the bike) and lots of lag.
JOES CLASSIC VIDEO GAME, how did you "verify" which power supply version it was?
I forgot to Bill!
@@LyonsArcade oh ok
There is like no time to react in his game? Is possible to get good at this game?
Yes there are lots of people good at it... most of the objects are in the same place each time so you can tell where they’re going to be...
Looks like your better at fixing it than playing it lol.
Ain't that the truth!
I realize it's a trick or the eye but the capacitor on that power supply looks as big as a coffee cup...
Believe it or not, it's NOT a trick of the eye the thing is that big! That's why they call it 'the big blue' it's huge!
@@LyonsArcade Wow
this would be sooooo cool if the fuse looked like a rolled up paper
Yeah, that would be sweet, lol maybe I should make some :)
Get a ceramic HRC fuse… (High Rupture Capacity (doesn’t throw parts like glass fuses can)).
Wonder what the original creators of this are up to now? I will google them!
Good question!
let's see what this does...yeaahhh
That's what we do :)
The controls never worked too
The artifacting you see on the display (especially on the bike) is courtesy of the Gonbez scan converter you are using. Its a pretty horrible solution for anything other than static images. Also, fuses don't blow for no reason. A short on any leg of the bridge rectifier will definitely blow the fuse. Finally, on the older arcade games, you should measure the voltage at the IC's and not on the power supply (connectors and wire can cause a lot of voltage drop).
Sounds like you've fixed a few of these!
So maybe an upgrade to 1080 maybe 1440p would be nice? so the vids not so blurry, Maybe??!! ( not trying to be a quality snob)
Since you said it nicely (we've been getting tons of people being complete jerks about it)... I'll let you in on a little secret... we've already been filming in 1080 but these videos you're watching now are ones from before we got the new camera :) So you'll see good 1080 stuff from us soon. Thanks for your nice comment and we'll see you on the next video Wasp!
@@LyonsArcade Thanks i didn't want you to think i was just trolling you. Also when you moved the camera and said "so i can get in to this" totally reminded me of laying on the bed playing with my friend and he was about to win i would sit up and say i guess it's time to relay play now!
Check it for giggles or as they say in the old-school way..... "shits and giggles" ‼️®™️
I always sucked at this game. It was a good way to waste money extremely FAST.
You got that right!