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Joe's Classic Video Games this fix was very nice and all, but won’t the cabinet be back within a couple of months or so, due to the resistance on the ground lead of the edge connector? There must be a reason why it got so hot, right? (Or am I missing something here?) Other than that, really nice video and great troubleshooting!
Thanks for the video ... A couple questions please : where did you get the pins for the Jamma connector any online links ? what kind of monitor was that k7000? or mitsushita?
Since there isn’t any masking the tin becomes a sacrificial metal because of the two different metals and current. This will eat away at the traces till there isn’t any. Using dielectric grease will probably prevent the issue since it will prevent moisture from forming electrolyte.
Great job man I love repair videos and seeing the passion you have with you great knowledge of electronics. Very clean fix and Putting it back to factory was the right way to do the job. Job well done Joe!
I have to confess I did something wrong the other day. I watched a UA-cam video about a gentleman showing how to wash a rope. I thought “well I could do that and maybe get something right”. I was sceptical though because the comments where full of howls of indignation about how he was doing it all wrong. So I tried to wash my rope using the generous information provided in the video. To my dismay it came out clean, I must have gotten it all wrong because according to all the expert comments it was done all wrong.
Fixing a game is always satisfying, but can get really frustrating depending on who got to it before you did LOL. Atari games are pretty well built and easy to work on. And they also weigh a ton compared to other 19" games.
Oh, wow, that brings back good memories. I played Dig-Dug against our peewee quarterback, who's name was Doug in a pizza joint after Saturday games. We still call him Dig-Doug to this day.
Dropped many a quarter into this at the Skaggs Drugstore on 200 East 400 North Logan Utah. It sat right next to the Qbert to ensure that, no matter your frustrating pleasure, they had you covered.
I miss this game. My god. Untold fortunes put thru the one in town back in the day. All I had,,right into the machine. The good old days. Nice work Joe.
While I own a *cough* Arcade1up version of this, it is one of my favorite arcade games of all time and a timeless piece of art just with the cab artwork itself. Great analysis and repair work Joe, it's great to see this great old game roar back to life, IMHO it deserves no less. I pray it too will forever be preserved for future generations to enjoy and experience as we did growing up. Thanks for sharing this!
Machined-pin sockets make the best connection. They have 4 wipers inside. Back when the company I'm at used dips, they were the only type allowed. (We make safety-critical stuff.)
Are you sure they have wipers in them? Every machined pin socket I have seen just had a machined blind hole and a chamfer and were sometimes plated on the inside.
Back when I worked for a company that made Atari peripherals we used those machine-pin sockets (Augat was the brand we used) instead of the cheaper variety...they just made better connections with the legs on the chips. Great vid...using the logic probe brings back memories of troubleshooting circuits in my college electronics classes so many years ago
Thanks Chris, we appreciate the kind words... it's kind of fun tracking the problem down if it's a clean issue like this one (a minor sound thing, etc.)
My company always sent me to Randy Fromm seminars in Chicago. (Randy Fromm Arcade School). I learned many troubleshooting skills on jukeboxes and pinball games. He went into great detail on newer power supplies that incorporate pulse width modulation
No, I was serious, you do an excellent job, your videos are fun to watch and even educational for those like me who are timid to dig into arcade pcb repair. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone!
Here's a tip when trying to measure resistors like you were doing with the volume pot. Learn to hold chopsticks. You can easily connect to both terminals and still hold the component.
"Another one rides the bus" Weird Al reference noted. Loved his stuff back in the day. The closest I ever got to arcade repair was trying to intern at Great America one year, but I didn't get the internship unfortunately. I did do PCB troubleshooting for awhile though, mostly smaller stuff, before going in an entirely different direction.
Nice work. Something I found out on Dig Dug (maybe another on of your videos?), you don't have to tap the pump button, you can just hold it. Works the same.
might have a built in repeat rate value, (like Tempest) but in this game pump recycle times are crucial to survival... owned a decent cocktail version of this, but never got very good at it. always kicks my ass - as it was designed to do. still addictive. still on my build list as I need an upright version, control panel parts in storage.
The one LM324 is set up for a gain of -1. So the two speakers are wired in series between the two amplifier outputs, and through the one wire-wound volume control. When one amplifier output is going positive, the other is going negative.
Like your board repair videos. I'm an old pinball guy so never played video archade games, but the board repair is largely the same so I watch the video archade repair too!
You are amazing Joe! I have learned so much from your videos and as an electronic tech this means a lot. Nothing like these old school machines! Watching your videos is very inspiring. Thank you 🔥💯
Great video.. I had a similar problem on another machine - I think it was a PacMan, where the output of a chip was stuck low, and it turned out to be that it was really the INPUT of the chip it was feeding was stuck low, which wouldn't let the output rise.. The hint in my situation was that because the OUTPUT was being held low, it was causing that chip to sink as much current as it could, so the WORKING chip got really hot, and when I followed that output to the next input and replaced that chip all was well. I hope that makes sense. Great video. Definitely subscribed and will be looking for more of your stuff
The jamma connectors always overheated and burned on the 5 volt line to the logic board. We used to rebuild the jamma connectors. I worked for AMERICAN Amusement and Vending Corp out of Bay City MI. for 4 years. I did both bench work and field repair I was their monitor expert being a tv service tech prior to working in the coin op industry. Juke boxes were my favorite things to work on. The Rowe cd jukeboxes had problems with their early CD player units. We replaced the upgraded version CD players and never had trouble afterwards
7:40 Pink rubber eraser from a pencil. Takes off the tarnish/oxidation without damaging the trace. I did the same thing when I restored my friend's Simpsons game. It works for all PCBs, gold plated or otherwise. There, I ruined your magic.
I didn't say it, now you'll have to deal with people telling you that erasers damage the traces because they have some crap in it that's acidic. At least that's what people complained to me :)
@@LyonsArcade I've never heard of erasers being acidic, so I had to check. Per the SDS for PaperMate's pink eraser and their wood pencil lines, there are no harmful compounds or chemical incompatibilities known. www.sprproductinformation.com/SDS/SAN/PMPinkPearl_70527.pdf www.officedepot.com/pdf/msds/929661.pdf Whoever told you that was probably using something other than pink eraser. There are rubberized abrasives available that may be detrimental to PCBs, but I've used Cratex as well with no issues.
Funny when we were kids of the 80's going to arcades waiting for the next greatest Video game to come to your local haunt. Not once did we revel over the artwork on the cabs. We were more interested on what was on screen.... But now as we grown old, we start to apriciate the work into the art and presentation of the cabs. But also the half the problem was that you would have 10-20 cabs pushed together a row and would never see side artwork anyway.
Yeah that's weird how that works like that. I was the same way when I was a kid I don't remember what most of them looked like... maybe I was seeing the sideart as a subconscious thing though and it made me spend more money... like you said though, people come in our shop all the time, they want games in mint condition, I've tried to tell them they were never in mint condition but they want to live the illusion :)
thanks for going thru the schematics and such. a few tips for this game maybe only found in the operating manual - more points are gained by the color coded dirt, as well as how many enemies can be squished in the same column with a single rock. pumping vertical or horizontal changes the point structure of popping them (my friend will start in one direction, then maneuver to the other to pop them). so of course he kicks my ass at this game, and has incredible reflexes on the pump button. the bonus fruit only comes when ... there are two or more enemies. enough rocks have to be dropped before it will appear tho. when there is only one left, then it exits to the top left corner. never considered staying at the top. wonder if I could last longer at the higher levels longer...
I was able to repair my Centipede machine by using copper tape as you did in this video. You must have shown that in some of your previous videos because I always check your channel as reference whenever I'm doing any repairs.I have always used an ink eraser to clean the fingers on edge connectors, and it always seems to do the trick but I'd like to know your secret for cleaning edge connectors. My next project in on my Midway "Space Invaders" machine. I'm missing a few sounds. If my memory serves me correctly, when the saucer flies across the screen the saucer sound is different than what it should be. Also, there is no sound when I hit the invaders. I get sound when I shoot, I just get no sound when they are hit.
When you do your space Invaders, you've probably looked into it already but there are a bunch of LM3900 chips on the soundboard that if they go bad it kills certain sounds, you can look on the schematics and see which chip makes which sound. Replace that chip and it will likely fix your missing sounds, I believe we did a video on here a long time ago showing how to do it. One caveat though, the "Invader hit" sound you're missing, if you look on the Space Invaders schematics, there's a typo where the wrong place is referred to as the Invader Hit area. So if you use Space Invaders Deluxe schematics, they fixed it and the area they say is the Invader Hit sound is correct. If you pull up both sets of schematics you'll see what I'm talking about.... thanks for watching B L, we appreciate it and good job on your Centipede :)
You’re doing gods work there was a repair shop by my house but sadly they closes down I hope you get enough business and never close down because there’s nothing like the actual arcade game
That game sounds way happier than when it started. If I were Dig Dug, I think I'd be kicking that bicycle pump to the curb and carry a 100 psi air compressor around. LOL! Great job fixing the game!
When you said 11H was running off the 5v rail, it isn't. It's running off the 10v unreg rail and the 5v rail is being used as a nominal mid-rail for the audio. Pins 10 and 12 of that chip go to 5v for that reason as a reference, they are not being loaded. This is an alternative to running the opamp from a split power rail (e.g. +12 and -12v) and in that world, pins 10&12 would be referenced to 0v. So the audio output from 11H will be biased to 5v and swing above and below this in sympathy with the audio signal. Love your videos and channel. Getting a pinball machine of our own soon.
Thank you for going into such a detailed explanation about how I don't know what I'm talking about. You missed a few other places I didn't know what I was talking about either.... so if that's your thing, you might want to rewatch so you can spot more errors.
@@LyonsArcade I suspect the people saying that haven't looked at a cross section of one that shows the 4-finder contact inside. twitter.com/TubeTimeUS/status/1295885655549992960
@@LyonsArcade sorry guys i should have said,my friend was here and wrote that,she is 49 and a hardcore game nut like me :) ive learnt a lot from her about the industry,ive played dig dug on namco museum and on mame though x
I love watching your videos all the way through. When I saw the capacitor in the schematic, that was what I guessed the problem was. Never would I have thought it was a multiplex chip with a possibly grounded pin.
Been watching this channel a lot lately, the nostalgia runs deep! I was 8 to 18 years old when these games were new, right square in the middle of the demographic. I have so many good memories of playing these games while hanging out with my friends. I didn't really think about how old these games are now and they are very rare. I would love to spend one more day before I die in a video arcade playing Black Knight, Defender, Sea Wolf, Joust, Star Wars and Tail Gunner, and the rest. But the world has moved on. Let me win the lottery and see what happens 😉
Also the "thing" that moves around on the rheostat, that is connected to the center terminal, is normally called a "wiper', you were probably just tongue tied or had a mental block and knew that anyhow. It's sort of weird to use a linear wire wound rheostat as a volume control, but I guess they needed the wattage in that circuit, too bad they didn't have a screwdriver slot cut into the end of the shaft. The original rheostat looks like it must have been 5-10 Watts, the little carbon pot is maybe 1/2 Watt, and had no business being there.
Make the music stop! Please! 😄 The trick to getting points is to drop the rock on the monster while it's frozen because you pumped it up. Multiple monsters with the same rock to score really big. You can part way inflate the monster and then let go, to get all of them together in a big bunch
13:25 - Machined pin sockets are the ONLY kind I will use in all of my electronics. The stamped pin sockets are just as crappy as the Molex edge connectors, just like the one you had to rebuild at the beginning. With the stamped pin sockets, over time with temperature cycling, the chips literally climb up and fall out of the sockets. I call those, designed in breakdowns.
Had similar issues when I got my original TRON upright, software Rev. 1.01, except the power supply was the culprit, so I rebuilt that, then worked forward, I ended selling it for 7000 USD to an Arcade, not bad, for a free machine from a friend that's a well known software developer and for a few weeks worth of work and a few 10s of dollars in spare parts When I used trace tape, I would solder the whole trace from the break to the edge, but that adhesive hates 400C soldering irons, so i lay in copper wire to hold it to the broken end trace to the end of the connector and solder it up
@@LyonsArcade I never asked for that they offered it, I would have taken much less around what you said I very much enjoy tech work and if I may, my video resume of my last radio station l, I was asst engineer for and I was in house and did a bit of transmitter work, there is a video I made of a 100Kw transmitter dropping attitude, check that one out if you like ua-cam.com/video/JC_PNfr3XHM/v-deo.html
My first touch to Dig Dug was on the C64 as late as 90's on a turbo tape. Liked it instantly. Then... one of my favorites is Wizball, but I bet there is no arcade conversion.
There is a retrocade about 5 mins away from me that has one of these units in good condition as well! I like the Dragon (Fygar) in the game!.....as you may have guessed lol.
Enjoy your videos. I thought that you said in another video that you had no formal schooling in electronics, and that you were self taught. But were there any books on electronics that you used in particular to help you get to the point that you are now?
Joe I love your vids. How'd you get into restoring these machines and how did you learn how to? My dad fixes radios and tube amps so I enjoy this kinda stuff. I was just curious Thanks! I don't live too far away from the shop I'm in Morganton NC. Would love to visit
Do I see two 51xx chips on there? Those are microcontrollers from what I understand, and they handle the I/O. JROK makes a replacement which uses an ATmega chip. The closest equivalent to that rheostat currently being made is the Ohmite RES50RE which costs US$56 and has a standard lead time of 23 weeks if they aren't available immediately.
If you told me when I was 14 that I'd be more interested in the schematics of the machine when I was 50+ .........lol 😆 Frikin love it!! Such relaxing content 😌
I must admit to being one of those techs in antiquity that would dive into those and make them work PDQ (often) with no schematics. I was a bright kid who lived at a Space Port. Owner had a problem one day and boom, I was fixing them for about 5 years. Lots I could (hak) fix. Some I could not. When it got to upper level stuff we call corporate. They send the district tech. He didn’t mind me taking some of the heat off. So the owner let me keep going. I still have a bench and only recently got into SMD with IOS devices. Keeps the old brain sharp. Next to the Space Port was a Radio Shack. They had a mail out repair service. When I pulled a bad radio out of the trash that had come back from repair as unrepairable, and fixed it, the manager started giving me things to fix. So when I went into the Navy as a seasons hak, they gave me microcomputers to fix. Good times. Made a career out of electronics.
That's pretty cool Christopher it's funny how stuff comes together like that for people, it's a good skill set to have, saves you lots of money and you can work on about anything!
Galaga used to be my top 80's arcade game but Dig-Dug has overtaken it. I have both on the Gameboy advance sp. They play like the arcade games and I like a portable hand-held to boot. You're a talented man, how long have you been repairing and restoring these old pinball and arcade games? It's personal info but I do wonder if this had been a private sell(like for a mancave) would the cost have been in the $2500-$5000 k range? Excellent video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching, all of our games we put up for sale on our website at www.LyonsArcade.com , this particular one was $1499 when we were finished with it. We've been repairing them for about 15 years now but for 10 years or so before that we owned a few that we lightly 'messed' with but no major repairs. Thank you for the kind words, we appreciate it and will see you on the next video!
Atari manufactured pretty much everything in the game, remember they were using the Atari power supply design and they had full production capabilities for the games they designed themselves, like Asteroids, Gauntlet, etc. At the time, The industry was so huge that there were several production facilities needed to supply each market with games, so Namco was making it's own boards overseas and at the exact same time Atari was making it's own boards in America.... The Namco made boards often were very different designs. A game like Dig Dug though had several board revisions as well, they sold a ton of these things.
Good job figuring out the problem but I wish you would have showed us the chip that you were having problems with and which leg it was that was generating the problem with the sound
No matter what I do people complain I didn't do it right so you'll just have to be happy with the little bit I did, sorry I didn't show you every thing you wanted to see
@@LyonsArcade it's not that you didn't do it right, I think you missed a important part you left out and that is showing the component that was causing the sound problem. I think if you watch the video you made you will see that , nothing wrong with making a mistake you can always fix it and edit it in, this way you will be making better repair videos to show here.
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Joe's Classic Video Games this fix was very nice and all, but won’t the cabinet be back within a couple of months or so, due to the resistance on the ground lead of the edge connector? There must be a reason why it got so hot, right? (Or am I missing something here?)
Other than that, really nice video and great troubleshooting!
Thanks for the video ...
A couple questions please : where did you get the pins for the Jamma connector any online links ?
what kind of monitor was that k7000? or mitsushita?
I think it's a Matsushita
Dig dug plush toy is no longer available on Amazon 😭
Since there isn’t any masking the tin becomes a sacrificial metal because of the two different metals and current. This will eat away at the traces till there isn’t any. Using dielectric grease will probably prevent the issue since it will prevent moisture from forming electrolyte.
Who doesn't love digdug? It's still fun even after like 40 years.
Great job man I love repair videos and seeing the passion you have with you great knowledge of electronics. Very clean fix and Putting it back to factory was the right way to do the job. Job well done Joe!
Thanks Evan, we appreciate you watching with us as we work through it :)
I have to confess I did something wrong the other day. I watched a UA-cam video about a gentleman showing how to wash a rope. I thought “well I could do that and maybe get something right”. I was sceptical though because the comments where full of howls of indignation about how he was doing it all wrong. So I tried to wash my rope using the generous information provided in the video. To my dismay it came out clean, I must have gotten it all wrong because according to all the expert comments it was done all wrong.
LOL I hate it when that happens!
Fixing a game is always satisfying, but can get really frustrating depending on who got to it before you did LOL. Atari games are pretty well built and easy to work on. And they also weigh a ton compared to other 19" games.
Ain't that the truth!
Oh, wow, that brings back good memories. I played Dig-Dug against our peewee quarterback, who's name was Doug in a pizza joint after Saturday games. We still call him Dig-Doug to this day.
Dropped many a quarter into this at the Skaggs Drugstore on 200 East 400 North Logan Utah. It sat right next to the Qbert to ensure that, no matter your frustrating pleasure, they had you covered.
They loved their cute bright games didn't they, LOL
I miss this game. My god. Untold fortunes put thru the one in town back in the day. All I had,,right into the machine. The good old days. Nice work Joe.
Thanks for watching, it's fun to bring these back to life :)
While I own a *cough* Arcade1up version of this, it is one of my favorite arcade games of all time and a timeless piece of art just with the cab artwork itself. Great analysis and repair work Joe, it's great to see this great old game roar back to life, IMHO it deserves no less. I pray it too will forever be preserved for future generations to enjoy and experience as we did growing up. Thanks for sharing this!
Machined-pin sockets make the best connection. They have 4 wipers inside. Back when the company I'm at used dips, they were the only type allowed. (We make safety-critical stuff.)
I like them!
better than flat pin ic socket
Are you sure they have wipers in them? Every machined pin socket I have seen just had a machined blind hole and a chamfer and were sometimes plated on the inside.
@@douro20 traditionally they do. Now I might need to get the microscope out.
One of the all time great classic games! Nice repair!
Thanks EvilAsh570, I don't think you're so evil after all :)
Back when I worked for a company that made Atari peripherals we used those machine-pin sockets (Augat was the brand we used) instead of the cheaper variety...they just made better connections with the legs on the chips. Great vid...using the logic probe brings back memories of troubleshooting circuits in my college electronics classes so many years ago
Thanks Chris, we appreciate the kind words... it's kind of fun tracking the problem down if it's a clean issue like this one (a minor sound thing, etc.)
My company always sent me to Randy Fromm seminars in Chicago. (Randy Fromm Arcade School). I learned many troubleshooting skills on jukeboxes and pinball games. He went into great detail on newer power supplies that incorporate pulse width modulation
Sweet repair! You are the king of classic arcade boards!
Meh, I get there but there's a lot of people much more talented at repairing them. They're fun to work on though.
No, I was serious, you do an excellent job, your videos are fun to watch and even educational for those like me who are timid to dig into arcade pcb repair. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone!
My first Arcade Cabinet ever was DIG DUG that I purchased from Lyon's Arcade! (Which of course I still have) You guys Rock!
It's such a great game :) Glad to hear you're holding onto it :)
Here's a tip when trying to measure resistors like you were doing with the volume pot. Learn to hold chopsticks. You can easily connect to both terminals and still hold the component.
That would probalby work pretty good :)
@@LyonsArcade You can also buy these little stands that have alligator clips on them. That may work better than using chopsticks.
"Another one rides the bus" Weird Al reference noted. Loved his stuff back in the day.
The closest I ever got to arcade repair was trying to intern at Great America one year, but I didn't get the internship unfortunately. I did do PCB troubleshooting for awhile though, mostly smaller stuff, before going in an entirely different direction.
Very cool, I've never been to Great America are they still around ? I think that's out west, I used to live in Fresno as a kid.
@@LyonsArcade North of Chicago- now Six Flags Great America
I would have never thought that Dax Shepherd would be referbing vintage arcade games as a side hustle ?!?!?!
Never heard of 'em! Thanks for watching 308Savagebolt!
Nice work. Something I found out on Dig Dug (maybe another on of your videos?), you don't have to tap the pump button, you can just hold it. Works the same.
So you're saying, I can press it each time, too then?
might have a built in repeat rate value, (like Tempest) but in this game pump recycle times are crucial to survival... owned a decent cocktail version of this, but never got very good at it. always kicks my ass - as it was designed to do. still addictive. still on my build list as I need an upright version, control panel parts in storage.
Nice work on that edge connector. The way you did that should outlive the original traces.
The one LM324 is set up for a gain of -1. So the two speakers are wired in series between the two amplifier outputs, and through the one wire-wound volume control. When one amplifier output is going positive, the other is going negative.
O.K.!
I love that the Z80 from 1982 is still humming along.... I build retro style computers with Z80s and RCA1802s
Those Z80's are workhorses :)
Like your board repair videos. I'm an old pinball guy so never played video archade games, but the board repair is largely the same so I watch the video archade repair too!
Thanks Ed, we appreciate having you along for the ride!
You are amazing Joe! I have learned so much from your videos and as an electronic tech this means a lot. Nothing like these old school machines! Watching your videos is very inspiring. Thank you 🔥💯
Thank you Captain Howdy, glad you enjoy them!!!
Great video.. I had a similar problem on another machine - I think it was a PacMan, where the output of a chip was stuck low, and it turned out to be that it was really the INPUT of the chip it was feeding was stuck low, which wouldn't let the output rise.. The hint in my situation was that because the OUTPUT was being held low, it was causing that chip to sink as much current as it could, so the WORKING chip got really hot, and when I followed that output to the next input and replaced that chip all was well. I hope that makes sense. Great video. Definitely subscribed and will be looking for more of your stuff
Thank you for watching it’s really fun to track these down!
Thats the one from The Basement in Concord. Loved the game but refused to play that one because the sound was so screwed. Nice to see its fixed.
Yes, that's the one! We bought it from Troy and sold it to another local arcade so now everybody's happy :)
The jamma connectors always overheated and burned on the 5 volt line to the logic board. We used to rebuild the jamma connectors. I worked for AMERICAN Amusement and Vending Corp out of Bay City MI. for 4 years. I did both bench work and field repair I was their monitor expert being a tv service tech prior to working in the coin op industry. Juke boxes were my favorite things to work on. The Rowe cd jukeboxes had problems with their early CD player units. We replaced the upgraded version CD players and never had trouble afterwards
Nice work. I’m going to get some edge connector pins for inventory. Always love your repair videos.
Thanks Bob, we appreciate you checking them out!
I was great at this game. Watching you play, brought back memories.
That's what we're trying to do, thank you for watching Dale!
in one of your video's you not only explained how but also showed us
Thanks, dude; I never tire of this. Plus, I'm picking up basic electronics and understand a great deal more than I did before.
Very cool man, glad you enjoyed it!!!
Another 80’s classic get to live again ! Keep up the great work
Thanks Dale!
That’s some great troubleshooting, sir. This game swallowed a lot of my quarters even though I royally sucked at it.
Thanks Bryan! Yeah it's almost damn irresistible with that music.
The more you suck the more it swallows!
Because I am a fully qualified electronics repairs engineer what I do when you have a burnt out Trace I use sticky copper tape
7:40 Pink rubber eraser from a pencil. Takes off the tarnish/oxidation without damaging the trace. I did the same thing when I restored my friend's Simpsons game. It works for all PCBs, gold plated or otherwise.
There, I ruined your magic.
I didn't say it, now you'll have to deal with people telling you that erasers damage the traces because they have some crap in it that's acidic. At least that's what people complained to me :)
@@LyonsArcade I've never heard of erasers being acidic, so I had to check. Per the SDS for PaperMate's pink eraser and their wood pencil lines, there are no harmful compounds or chemical incompatibilities known.
www.sprproductinformation.com/SDS/SAN/PMPinkPearl_70527.pdf
www.officedepot.com/pdf/msds/929661.pdf
Whoever told you that was probably using something other than pink eraser. There are rubberized abrasives available that may be detrimental to PCBs, but I've used Cratex as well with no issues.
Funny when we were kids of the 80's going to arcades waiting for the next greatest Video game to come to your local haunt. Not once did we revel over the artwork on the cabs. We were more interested on what was on screen.... But now as we grown old, we start to apriciate the work into the art and presentation of the cabs. But also the half the problem was that you would have 10-20 cabs pushed together a row and would never see side artwork anyway.
Yeah that's weird how that works like that. I was the same way when I was a kid I don't remember what most of them looked like... maybe I was seeing the sideart as a subconscious thing though and it made me spend more money... like you said though, people come in our shop all the time, they want games in mint condition, I've tried to tell them they were never in mint condition but they want to live the illusion :)
thanks for going thru the schematics and such.
a few tips for this game maybe only found in the operating manual - more points are gained by the color coded dirt, as well as how many enemies can be squished in the same column with a single rock.
pumping vertical or horizontal changes the point structure of popping them (my friend will start in one direction, then maneuver to the other to pop them).
so of course he kicks my ass at this game, and has incredible reflexes on the pump button.
the bonus fruit only comes when ... there are two or more enemies. enough rocks have to be dropped before it will appear tho. when there is only one left, then it exits to the top left corner.
never considered staying at the top.
wonder if I could last longer at the higher levels longer...
Great game with a very nice investigation. I enjoyed your explanation of the rheostat. All good wishes!
Thanks Anton, we appreciate you watching!
I was able to repair my Centipede machine by using copper tape as you did in this video. You must have shown that in some of your previous videos because I always check your channel as reference whenever I'm doing any repairs.I have always used an ink eraser to clean the fingers on edge connectors, and it always seems to do the trick but I'd like to know your secret for cleaning edge connectors. My next project in on my Midway "Space Invaders" machine. I'm missing a few sounds. If my memory serves me correctly, when the saucer flies across the screen the saucer sound is different than what it should be. Also, there is no sound when I hit the invaders. I get sound when I shoot, I just get no sound when they are hit.
When you do your space Invaders, you've probably looked into it already but there are a bunch of LM3900 chips on the soundboard that if they go bad it kills certain sounds, you can look on the schematics and see which chip makes which sound. Replace that chip and it will likely fix your missing sounds, I believe we did a video on here a long time ago showing how to do it.
One caveat though, the "Invader hit" sound you're missing, if you look on the Space Invaders schematics, there's a typo where the wrong place is referred to as the Invader Hit area. So if you use Space Invaders Deluxe schematics, they fixed it and the area they say is the Invader Hit sound is correct. If you pull up both sets of schematics you'll see what I'm talking about.... thanks for watching B L, we appreciate it and good job on your Centipede :)
i love the logic probe and the schematic work in this one. Great job Ron. !
Thanks In My Head we appreciate it man like always :)
Nice work with the probe on the pcb and ohming the test panel; gotta love when they run again.
It's fun to see them come back to life :)
I love the control setup on your test desk.
Thanks!
I had a Space Duel standup... I had to fix the Wells Garner display.... 20 years ago... good times..
That was a cool game too! Thanks for watching JayBird...
Wow what a throw back. Beings back fond memories. Thanks
Thanks Aria, we appreciate you watching!
You’re doing gods work there was a repair shop by my house but sadly they closes down I hope you get enough business and never close down because there’s nothing like the actual arcade game
We won't be closing down, we'd have to go get real jobs :) Thanks for watching Steve, see you on the next video!
Joe's Classic Video Games how long have you been open and where are you located I’m sure it’s multiple states away
Mr Guru thanks I found it how long have you been in business
That game sounds way happier than when it started. If I were Dig Dug, I think I'd be kicking that bicycle pump to the curb and carry a 100 psi air compressor around. LOL! Great job fixing the game!
You'd think they'd make a modern version with that :) Thanks for watching Brian!
I got a chance to see this game in person and I am finally going back there to film it in this cabinet
Very cool!
@@LyonsArcade yeah
When you said 11H was running off the 5v rail, it isn't. It's running off the 10v unreg rail and the 5v rail is being used as a nominal mid-rail for the audio. Pins 10 and 12 of that chip go to 5v for that reason as a reference, they are not being loaded. This is an alternative to running the opamp from a split power rail (e.g. +12 and -12v) and in that world, pins 10&12 would be referenced to 0v. So the audio output from 11H will be biased to 5v and swing above and below this in sympathy with the audio signal. Love your videos and channel. Getting a pinball machine of our own soon.
Thank you for going into such a detailed explanation about how I don't know what I'm talking about. You missed a few other places I didn't know what I was talking about either.... so if that's your thing, you might want to rewatch so you can spot more errors.
Nice fix on the edge of that board, and yeah, I like those "Turned Pin" sockets, they are a little more expensive here but infinitely better.
Quite a lot of devices use single wipe sockets which are rubbish. Double wipe are better but turned pin are the best.
Some have made the point that the turned pin ones are round and have less surface area touching than a dual wipe socket.....
@@LyonsArcade Maybe, but in over 40 years in electronics in one form or another I've seen less problems with turned pin...Im a little biased !
@@LyonsArcade The turned pin sockets are gold plated which means better conductivity.
@@LyonsArcade I suspect the people saying that haven't looked at a cross section of one that shows the 4-finder contact inside. twitter.com/TubeTimeUS/status/1295885655549992960
I love the commentary, another great video, thank you.
Thanks DK we appreciate you watching and the nice words. See you on the next one!
wish we had a arcade back in baton rouge again great video.....
They have opened some bars that have all the old games in them, but it's not the same....
Nice. I never liked digdug as kid,but nowadays I am very fond of it
It grows on you! Thank you for watching Michal!
As a person who builds machine pin connectors, I approve of your use of them :D
Well I approve of you approving of me using them, and of you building them. :)
As someone that knows f all about electronics but enjoys watching the videos..grassy ass senor 😁
20:56
"When you wish upon a star..."
[death sound!]
And what a beautiful death sound it was!
@@LyonsArcade sounded like victory
AWESOME FIX!!!!!!! AWESOME GAME!!!!!! It looks and sounds amazing now. YOU DA MAN!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Troy!
Very cool game, man what a good shape survivor! Cool repair and all the details. Thanks so much
very very nice,just touch up that cab in a few places,and the jobs a goodun ;) played these when new !! refreshing !! thank you for the video guys x
Hope you couldn't have possibly played these when they were new that was 38 years ago :) Thanks for watching, we'll see you on the next video!
@@LyonsArcade sorry guys i should have said,my friend was here and wrote that,she is 49 and a hardcore game nut like me :) ive learnt a lot from her about the industry,ive played dig dug on namco museum and on mame though x
I love watching your videos all the way through. When I saw the capacitor in the schematic, that was what I guessed the problem was. Never would I have thought it was a multiplex chip with a possibly grounded pin.
Yeah me neither, I felt pretty sure it was really late in the amplification but you know what happens when you assume!
@@LyonsArcade Yeah my crutch is that I almost always assume. :D
Very nicely put together video and very entertaining as well. Thanks for posting this.
Another class
Please Keep them coming
Thanks Lee! More coming soon.
Been watching this channel a lot lately, the nostalgia runs deep!
I was 8 to 18 years old when these games were new, right square in the middle of the demographic. I have so many good memories of playing these games while hanging out with my friends.
I didn't really think about how old these games are now and they are very rare. I would love to spend one more day before I die in a video arcade playing Black Knight, Defender, Sea Wolf, Joust, Star Wars and Tail Gunner, and the rest. But the world has moved on.
Let me win the lottery and see what happens 😉
You never know :) Thank you for watching Red Scorpion 6, we appreciate you hanging out with us so much!
good on you for saving the past.
Thanks for watching Pizza Licker!
Well done as always! Keep it going man.
Thanks Entamut, we appreciate it!
I remember playing that when it was new I would 24 brought back a lot of memories
It's a really great game, very well designed down to even the music and sound effects. I used to play it on the Atari 5200 all the time back then....
Nothing says quality workmanship like seeing 1/2 dozen wire nuts splicing a wiring harness together, along with tack soldering.
Also the "thing" that moves around on the rheostat, that is connected to the center terminal, is normally called a "wiper', you were probably just tongue tied or had a mental block and knew that anyhow. It's sort of weird to use a linear wire wound rheostat as a volume control, but I guess they needed the wattage in that circuit, too bad they didn't have a screwdriver slot cut into the end of the shaft. The original rheostat looks like it must have been 5-10 Watts, the little carbon pot is maybe 1/2 Watt, and had no business being there.
They did have it up and running, though :)
Nice work! Now I gotta go get me one to restore!
Make the music stop! Please! 😄 The trick to getting points is to drop the rock on the monster while it's frozen because you pumped it up. Multiple monsters with the same rock to score really big. You can part way inflate the monster and then let go, to get all of them together in a big bunch
I've seen that a few times in the attract mode but I just like to play it digging through the ground a little bit :)
13:25 - Machined pin sockets are the ONLY kind I will use in all of my electronics. The stamped pin sockets are just as crappy as the Molex edge connectors, just like the one you had to rebuild at the beginning. With the stamped pin sockets, over time with temperature cycling, the chips literally climb up and fall out of the sockets. I call those, designed in breakdowns.
I have seen a ton of games where the roms have raised up out of the sockets, you're absolutely right!
Another famous game classic (my fave game) saved by you! pats & congrats!!!
Thanks for watching Chris!
Great video! Is it possible to add lighting when your inside the cabinet? The picture is dark and hard to see what your pointing at.
Thanks for watching!
Nice troubleshooting Joe!
Thanks Eric, we appreciate you watching!
Had similar issues when I got my original TRON upright, software Rev. 1.01, except the power supply was the culprit, so I rebuilt that, then worked forward, I ended selling it for 7000 USD to an Arcade, not bad, for a free machine from a friend that's a well known software developer and for a few weeks worth of work and a few 10s of dollars in spare parts
When I used trace tape, I would solder the whole trace from the break to the edge, but that adhesive hates 400C soldering irons, so i lay in copper wire to hold it to the broken end trace to the end of the connector and solder it up
You did pretty good :) I think the last Tron we had in we sold for $2200.
@@LyonsArcade I never asked for that they offered it, I would have taken much less around what you said
I very much enjoy tech work and if I may, my video resume of my last radio station l, I was asst engineer for and I was in house and did a bit of transmitter work, there is a video I made of a 100Kw transmitter dropping attitude, check that one out if you like
ua-cam.com/video/JC_PNfr3XHM/v-deo.html
My first touch to Dig Dug was on the C64 as late as 90's on a turbo tape. Liked it instantly. Then... one of my favorites is Wizball, but I bet there is no arcade conversion.
Atari 2600 is my memory of it, great game.
There is a retrocade about 5 mins away from me that has one of these units in good condition as well! I like the Dragon (Fygar) in the game!.....as you may have guessed lol.
You do seem to have a touch of the Dragon appreciation there
@@LyonsArcade Indeed! Lol
Holy Crap, I just played this very machine about a weekend ago. i know the mues..arcade that you are talking about. Plays very well, great job!
Thanks Robert, we appreciate your patronage :)
that single socket looks better and if you have a good reason for it, then yes. go for it.
Absolutely!
Enjoy your videos. I thought that you said in another video that you had no formal schooling in electronics, and that you were self taught. But were there any books on electronics that you used in particular to help you get to the point that you are now?
Nope just read over the schematics and eventually started understanding them a little better..... thanks for watching John!
Joe I love your vids. How'd you get into restoring these machines and how did you learn how to? My dad fixes radios and tube amps so I enjoy this kinda stuff. I was just curious
Thanks! I don't live too far away from the shop I'm in Morganton NC. Would love to visit
Come on by! We bought an arcade game when we were kids from the local arcade, that's how we got started.
thanks Joe. I was curious if you ever had any electronics training or did you just wing it and teach yourself?@@LyonsArcade
Keep ‘em coming, fella! 😎😎
Thanks Cliff!
hold button down to pump ; ) one of my all time fave games. got the mini one from wallys tho close its not the same.
One of the coolest early 80's games for sure!
If you cut a shallow notch where you wrap the trace then the tape won’t move around. Or just use contact cement.
Thanks for the tip Charles!
"Bring in the Logic Probe!" - SARK / TRON
I came here to see this, or say it if someone else hadn't already.
@@draketungsten74 - Given my namesake, isn't better that I said it? 😁
@@tron3entertainment Considering my son's namesake, I think I'm covered. 😁
Did Dug was the first game I bought for myself on my Intellivision. I used my Christmas money and in January of 1986 I paid $38.00 at KB Toys...
Do I see two 51xx chips on there? Those are microcontrollers from what I understand, and they handle the I/O. JROK makes a replacement which uses an ATmega chip.
The closest equivalent to that rheostat currently being made is the Ohmite RES50RE which costs US$56 and has a standard lead time of 23 weeks if they aren't available immediately.
I have successfully used fiberglass brush to clean connector traces.
I've been trying to use it more, somebody sent me one! Thanks for watching Jan!
YESSSSSS!!!!!!
I pumped 100s of dollars into that game at the beach arcades when I was a kid..
Frikin nostalgia bubbling..😆 🤣.
Nice one Joe!! 👏
If you told me when I was 14 that I'd be more interested in the schematics of the machine when I was 50+ .........lol 😆
Frikin love it!! Such relaxing content 😌
Thank you for watching, glad you enjoyed it!!!
Great video again Joe
Thanks Arcade Crusaders!
Insanely addictive and popular game.
Thank you for watching David!
Wow, serial UR000055, fairly low number! Great videos, thanks.
Yup this would have likely been built the very first day.
I must admit to being one of those techs in antiquity that would dive into those and make them work PDQ (often) with no schematics. I was a bright kid who lived at a Space Port. Owner had a problem one day and boom, I was fixing them for about 5 years. Lots I could (hak) fix. Some I could not. When it got to upper level stuff we call corporate. They send the district tech. He didn’t mind me taking some of the heat off. So the owner let me keep going. I still have a bench and only recently got into SMD with IOS devices. Keeps the old brain sharp. Next to the Space Port was a Radio Shack. They had a mail out repair service. When I pulled a bad radio out of the trash that had come back from repair as unrepairable, and fixed it, the manager started giving me things to fix. So when I went into the Navy as a seasons hak, they gave me microcomputers to fix. Good times. Made a career out of electronics.
That's pretty cool Christopher it's funny how stuff comes together like that for people, it's a good skill set to have, saves you lots of money and you can work on about anything!
Quick question... did the Namco cabinet keep the same cabinet for Japan?
I thought it was the PoKey. No wonder the sounds for my Atari 8 bit computer has 2 versions of Dig Dug and it sounds just like the arcade.
Galaga used to be my top 80's arcade game but Dig-Dug has overtaken it. I have both on the Gameboy advance sp. They play like the arcade games and I like a portable hand-held to boot. You're a talented man, how long have you been repairing and restoring these old pinball and arcade games? It's personal info but I do wonder if this had been a private sell(like for a mancave) would the cost have been in the $2500-$5000 k range? Excellent video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching, all of our games we put up for sale on our website at www.LyonsArcade.com , this particular one was $1499 when we were finished with it. We've been repairing them for about 15 years now but for 10 years or so before that we owned a few that we lightly 'messed' with but no major repairs. Thank you for the kind words, we appreciate it and will see you on the next video!
@@LyonsArcade Thanks for the info and you're welcome.
My favorite arcade as a kid.
Thank you for watching Mark!
you may have a dirty volume pot and the LM324 is a buffer amp in that circuit
Thanks!
Sir... your game play triggered me back to my ten year old self watching my younger sister play. LOL
Her and I still think It's strange after all these years that you feel like you're better at having fun.
@@LyonsArcade LOL. Well played sir... well played. Thanks for taking the time to post your work.
5:33 looks like someone took the "quantity over quality" approach to soldering...
It happens :) The good news is you can melt it off :) Thanks for watching haywoodyoudome!
With these Namco licensed games did Atari use Namco made boards or did they manufacture the boards for the Us versions themselves?
Atari manufactured pretty much everything in the game, remember they were using the Atari power supply design and they had full production capabilities for the games they designed themselves, like Asteroids, Gauntlet, etc. At the time, The industry was so huge that there were several production facilities needed to supply each market with games, so Namco was making it's own boards overseas and at the exact same time Atari was making it's own boards in America.... The Namco made boards often were very different designs. A game like Dig Dug though had several board revisions as well, they sold a ton of these things.
Can't stop laughing here: ua-cam.com/video/oRwPvlVoMRU/v-deo.html when you make that "scared noise" hahahahahaha
It was very frightening :)
@@LyonsArcade that solder makes goosebumps
Good job figuring out the problem but I wish you would have showed us the chip that you were having problems with and which leg it was that was generating the problem with the sound
No matter what I do people complain I didn't do it right so you'll just have to be happy with the little bit I did, sorry I didn't show you every thing you wanted to see
@@LyonsArcade it's not that you didn't do it right, I think you missed a important part you left out and that is showing the component that was causing the sound problem. I think if you watch the video you made you will see that , nothing wrong with making a mistake you can always fix it and edit it in, this way you will be making better repair videos to show here.