So far I been using this method and I have no problems with the pools I service balance the cya at 45 and all good , thank you for your time to make this videos
Does CYA sink, float or mix in the water column? I'd like to lower mine and it won't do any good draining from the bottom of the pool is CYA is on top. ????
In this video at 1:07 it shows a "Tab" in the skimmer. NEVER put Tabs in the skimmer. The acid in the tabs will gravitate down the tubing from skimmer to the bottom main drains and come out there and burn the plaster, as well as other damage to pool equipment when the pool starts up there will be high concentration of acid going through the heater core. Wish I could post a picture of the damage it can cause to the plaster around the main drains after a few years of tabs in the skimmer. Hope that was not one of your guys from Orenda that pulled the tab out of the skimmer and did not toss it ;-)
Hey Pool Pro. No, we do not promote the use of tri Chlor tablets in skimmers. That was not one of our pools, just happened to be a pool we went to. We agree that the pH of the tab will have a negative impact on your heat exchanger.
rexxsong I would recommend getting the chlorinator fixed. Anything at a low pH like that passing directly through the equipment cannot be a good thing.
I would always recommend against tabs in the skimmer, Period, end of discussion ;-) . You could get a "Tab Feeder"(Pentair Rainbow is one example) that could be installed at the equipment, but not without a check-valve installed inline behind the Feeder so the acid would not gravitate back to the heater when there is no water flow. But even this way is not perfect. I'm not totally against tabs, they have their place if you don't exceed 30ppm to 50ppm CYA(non-salt pool). But the very best way to distribute tabs is with a "Floater" TIED OFF so it cannot burn the steps or any shallow plaster areas. However a floater is not the most visually appealing, but it is the best way to keep any concentrated tab acid away from your heater and equipment, and plaster. I like to tie mine off, with a short line, on the pool vacuum hose, one hose section away from the vaccum port. This way the floater also stays away from the pool wall for the most part.
Glad I happened to find this video! My new pool’s CYA level is about 45, as was established by the set-up team, and I was about to add several pounds of CYA powder to bump it up to 80 or so. I won’t add any more now! Thanks for the informative video. So many pool chemistry “experts” out there, but really there are very few.
Mechanism of action? Contact us directly so we can discuss what you mean. It's probably something we can figure out, but we need more clarity on your question. www.orendatech.com/contact
I use test strip for distilled drinking water with added minerals/electrolytes powder. No chlorine, I get a high ph 9-10 that I like, high alkaline, and high Cyanuric Acid, would you know if Cyanuric Acid is good or bad ?
CYA should not be in distilled drinking water. Either the test strip is faulty, or your mineral powder has it in that….but it’s almost certainly a bad test result.
Good question. We don't want you using dichlor. Not sure who is telling you to. It's especially unnecessary if your hot tub has a cover on it. But to answer your question, hot tubs should be drained periodically to reset chemistry and to flush the system with fresh water.
The manufacturer of our hot tub also recommends dichlor and clearly states that the warranty will be voided if we use a concentrated sanitizer (like bromine in a floater). What type of chlorine should we use?
Hello Eric I'm just learning about pool chemistry & I get it just a little confused about the CYA/STABILIZER let's say my Free chlorine is 4ppm & my CYA level is 73 does this work for me ???
Hello - CYA and Free Chlorine should be maintained within a ratio that allows decent chlorination (CYA:FC ratio). Without regard to phosphates, the studies show a minimum of 7.5% of your CYA level in FC as a minimum to prevent algae. So you're close to being there. You might need some more chlorine to stay ahead of that ratio. But again, you're pretty close.
We use a Zodiac Nature2 mineral cartridge, which zodiac and poolcenter.com tell us reduces recommended chlorine levels to 0.5 ppm. Any idea how that affects your calculation? (I'm hoping that we don't need to maintain 2.2 ppm for 30 ppm CA.)
rexxsong if you can maintain a 0.5 chlorine level go for it. We believe chlorine is necessary for sanitation in pools and the lower the chlorine level the better. We just want to make sure water is safe for bathers.
We are not experts in mineral systems, but what you're saying makes sense. CYA only protects chlorine from sunlight...so if your Cl levels are that low, you won't need much CYA for sunlight protection. Consult with a mineral system manufacturer for their opinion on it. Great question!
Look at a chart where you can read at which CYA level you still have an x% chlorine left after 1 hour. I believe Orenda has such a chart. You will see that at 30ppm you get 98% and at 20ppm around 95%. If you go lower than that the chlorine breaks down pretty fast.
Let’s say a pool was at 100ppm CYA like you said in the video. When you’re testing would you have to keep the FC at 9.5 on the chart to keep the sanitizer levels the same if the CYA was at 30ppm reading 2ppm FC. Or do you just add at lot more chlorine so the FC stays in the ideal range on the chart as normal?
Blake Beyett If your pool has 100 CYA, the minimum FAC needed to prevent algae is 7.5ppm, not 9.5. At 30 CYA, 7.5% of that is 2.25ppm FAC minimum. You just need to have enough chlorine to keep the ratio above the 7.5% threshold. Great question!
My pool is green and the pool professional said it had too much CYA in it, reducing the Chlorine effect. He proposed to drain the pool by 60% and fill it again, so he could CYA and Chlorine in the correct dose. I am suspicious of this method deu to my research through the internet, and it will also cost me a lot of money to fill 60% of my pool. What do you recommend in my case? Thank you in advance.
Hi Afonso, great question. We do recommend draining and diluting if CYA levels are too high. How high is your CYA? 60% may be appropriate but it could also be more than needed. There’s no more affordable way to reduce CYA that we know of, and yes, high CYA is directly correlated to algae outbreaks. Let us know what you decide to do. Thanks for your comment!
We recommend draining some water to lower CYA down below 50 ppm for optimal sunlight protection and avoiding overstabilization. Even with high CYA your chlorine will still get used up on oxidants and contaminants.
So far I been using this method and I have no problems with the pools I service balance the cya at 45 and all good , thank you for your time to make this videos
I routinely review the Orenda videos at pool start up and thru out the swim season. Great advice
Thank you!
Does CYA sink, float or mix in the water column? I'd like to lower mine and it won't do any good draining from the bottom of the pool is CYA is on top. ????
What is Orenda’s recommended cya levels for a saltwater pool?
50 ppm or less for all residential chlorine pools. 15 or less for commercial chlorine pools
I wish you could talk more about Aquaculture with chlorine.
I wish we knew anything about Aquaculture....
In this video at 1:07 it shows a "Tab" in the skimmer. NEVER put Tabs in the skimmer. The acid in the tabs will gravitate down the tubing from skimmer to the bottom main drains and come out there and burn the plaster, as well as other damage to pool equipment when the pool starts up there will be high concentration of acid going through the heater core. Wish I could post a picture of the damage it can cause to the plaster around the main drains after a few years of tabs in the skimmer. Hope that was not one of your guys from Orenda that pulled the tab out of the skimmer and did not toss it ;-)
You mention plaster and heater. Would you still recommend against tab in skimmer for concrete with no heater? (Our chlorinator is broken.)
Hey Pool Pro. No, we do not promote the use of tri Chlor tablets in skimmers. That was not one of our pools, just happened to be a pool we went to. We agree that the pH of the tab will have a negative impact on your heat exchanger.
rexxsong I would recommend getting the chlorinator fixed. Anything at a low pH like that passing directly through the equipment cannot be a good thing.
I would always recommend against tabs in the skimmer, Period, end of discussion ;-) . You could get a "Tab Feeder"(Pentair Rainbow is one example) that could be installed at the equipment, but not without a check-valve installed inline behind the Feeder so the acid would not gravitate back to the heater when there is no water flow. But even this way is not perfect. I'm not totally against tabs, they have their place if you don't exceed 30ppm to 50ppm CYA(non-salt pool). But the very best way to distribute tabs is with a "Floater" TIED OFF so it cannot burn the steps or any shallow plaster areas. However a floater is not the most visually appealing, but it is the best way to keep any concentrated tab acid away from your heater and equipment, and plaster. I like to tie mine off, with a short line, on the pool vacuum hose, one hose section away from the vaccum port. This way the floater also stays away from the pool wall for the most part.
Thanks to you both for the replies!
Glad I happened to find this video! My new pool’s CYA level is about 45, as was established by the set-up team, and I was about to add several pounds of CYA powder to bump it up to 80 or so. I won’t add any more now! Thanks for the informative video. So many pool chemistry “experts” out there, but really there are very few.
We really appreciate your feedback, and we are glad we could save you the headache of overstabilization!
I would like to see the "life cycle" or "mechanism of action" of chlorine and CYA.
Mechanism of action? Contact us directly so we can discuss what you mean. It's probably something we can figure out, but we need more clarity on your question. www.orendatech.com/contact
Crack a smile every once in a while. Talking like someone just died.
Hey, CYA is a sad subject. Slowing down chlorine is a somber and depressing thing.
I use test strip for distilled drinking water with added minerals/electrolytes powder. No chlorine, I get a high ph 9-10 that I like, high alkaline, and high Cyanuric Acid, would you know if Cyanuric Acid is good or bad ?
CYA should not be in distilled drinking water. Either the test strip is faulty, or your mineral powder has it in that….but it’s almost certainly a bad test result.
@@OrendaTechnologies I use the aqua chek strips and ov electrolytes powder which only includes potassium, chloride, calcium and magnesium
Question : TCCA already include CYA mixture, how do we decide how much to put in ?
TCCA? Are you referring to Trichlor?
@@OrendaTechnologies yes.
So in a hotub how are you supposed to keep the cya levels down when they want you to use dichloro?
Good question. We don't want you using dichlor. Not sure who is telling you to. It's especially unnecessary if your hot tub has a cover on it. But to answer your question, hot tubs should be drained periodically to reset chemistry and to flush the system with fresh water.
Dont use dichlor!!!
@@achingpuddleog4607 Yea, I figured that out a after a while, strong spas told me to only use dichlor.
The manufacturer of our hot tub also recommends dichlor and clearly states that the warranty will be voided if we use a concentrated sanitizer (like bromine in a floater). What type of chlorine should we use?
Hello Eric I'm just learning about pool chemistry & I get it just a little confused about the CYA/STABILIZER let's say my Free chlorine is 4ppm & my CYA level is 73 does this work for me ???
Hello - CYA and Free Chlorine should be maintained within a ratio that allows decent chlorination (CYA:FC ratio). Without regard to phosphates, the studies show a minimum of 7.5% of your CYA level in FC as a minimum to prevent algae. So you're close to being there. You might need some more chlorine to stay ahead of that ratio. But again, you're pretty close.
We use a Zodiac Nature2 mineral cartridge, which zodiac and poolcenter.com tell us reduces recommended chlorine levels to 0.5 ppm. Any idea how that affects your calculation? (I'm hoping that we don't need to maintain 2.2 ppm for 30 ppm CA.)
rexxsong if you can maintain a 0.5 chlorine level go for it. We believe chlorine is necessary for sanitation in pools and the lower the chlorine level the better. We just want to make sure water is safe for bathers.
In a mineral system should the CYA then be lower since chlorine should be around .5ppm in a mineral system
We are not experts in mineral systems, but what you're saying makes sense. CYA only protects chlorine from sunlight...so if your Cl levels are that low, you won't need much CYA for sunlight protection. Consult with a mineral system manufacturer for their opinion on it. Great question!
Look at a chart where you can read at which CYA level you still have an x% chlorine left after 1 hour. I believe Orenda has such a chart. You will see that at 30ppm you get 98% and at 20ppm around 95%. If you go lower than that the chlorine breaks down pretty fast.
Let’s say a pool was at 100ppm CYA like you said in the video. When you’re testing would you have to keep the FC at 9.5 on the chart to keep the sanitizer levels the same if the CYA was at 30ppm reading 2ppm FC. Or do you just add at lot more chlorine so the FC stays in the ideal range on the chart as normal?
Blake Beyett If your pool has 100 CYA, the minimum FAC needed to prevent algae is 7.5ppm, not 9.5.
At 30 CYA, 7.5% of that is 2.25ppm FAC minimum. You just need to have enough chlorine to keep the ratio above the 7.5% threshold. Great question!
Good info
Ferg Ferguson thanks, we try
My pool is green and the pool professional said it had too much CYA in it, reducing the Chlorine effect. He proposed to drain the pool by 60% and fill it again, so he could CYA and Chlorine in the correct dose. I am suspicious of this method deu to my research through the internet, and it will also cost me a lot of money to fill 60% of my pool. What do you recommend in my case? Thank you in advance.
Hi Afonso, great question. We do recommend draining and diluting if CYA levels are too high. How high is your CYA? 60% may be appropriate but it could also be more than needed. There’s no more affordable way to reduce CYA that we know of, and yes, high CYA is directly correlated to algae outbreaks. Let us know what you decide to do. Thanks for your comment!
Much mahalo eric
Aloha!
Yea and then u come back a week later and u might not have chl in ur pool
What if my chlorine is high. I'm thinking to just leave my stabalizer alone. Bc i dont want the chlorine staying lol
We recommend draining some water to lower CYA down below 50 ppm for optimal sunlight protection and avoiding overstabilization. Even with high CYA your chlorine will still get used up on oxidants and contaminants.