The thing about this system is the blue blocks and the furring strips. That will help keep the foam in place. I wouldn't use any interior stud insulation so it stays nice and dry on the inside of the sheathing.
@@johnlee7085 name one. explain the thermal bridge, air barrier and thermal performance that's better than using exterior insulation with no thermal bridge.
@fredsnit5699 Review the comments at a minimum to see other options. There are also lots of videos to explain thermal bridging, etc. It’s rather silly expect any sort of reasonable explanation in a comment section, but you probably feel better about yourself and that’s what’s important.
Basically modern lathe and plaster framing, only not using the expanded wire mesh backing. I would hope the bottom of the wall has a termite block at the sill and a drip edge for drainage, otherwise its a pretty risky way to build. Looks like the perfect termite breeding ground.
We appreciate your input. Termites are sneaky little things! If you live in a termite infested area, the building codes do require a 6” separation of exposed concrete. A termite screen can easily be added to the bottom of the wall detail. This demo project was done up in South Dakota where, thankfully, the winter generally takes care of that problem.
@@insofast-continuous-insulation Thanks for the reply. It is probably a detail to include so nobody has a DIY termite episode where they blame your product.
@@JT_70Your are aware the guy in the video helped develop SIP. ICF is 10x the cost. this is standard stick framing thats a fraction of SIP. Must be nice to have ICF money money bags
My issue with spray foam is that it’s so operator dependent. If they don’t get everything just perfect there can be big gaps or pulling away etc. Is this new spray foam more forgiving of conditions and operator errors?
Valid question- We get that spray foam quality is operator-dependent. That's why we recommend experienced professionals. The new spray foam has improved environmentally but still requires precise application. As our system becomes available for purchase, we will be sure to offer resources on our website to help you find reputable installers!
@@insofast-continuous-insulation couldn't you do prefab foam panels with built in brackets, with either guide holes for screws outside in or screwed from inside?
Matt Risinger, video, what is an over roof. An over roof is vented by the furring strips. New board is added on top of the strips, and then roof as normal. So, no the roof wont bake as there is airflow. This technology is good for an over roof. The video thumbnail shows it.
Shrug: Seems a whole lot more hassle than just using 2" or 3" Rigid foam insulation. Installation of rigid foam can be done by framers & siding companies. Cost for sprayfoam makes it prohibabitly more expensive that just using rigid foam panels. Probably for the cost of 2" of spray foam on the outside, you could do 4" or more of rigid foam panels. For me the perfect cost effect system is 2x6x24"oc, ZIP sheathing, 2" Rigid foam on outside & rockwool bats on the inside. Beyond that the costs go up while the return on investment crashes (ie picking up pennies in from of a oncoming freight train). For roofing, I recommend SIP panels. My attic never gets much above 80F even with 100F+ outside temperatures. My biggest thermal losses (heating & cooling) are windows.
Serious question. How do you attach siding or furring strips to the outside of the rigid foam? I initially thought long screws, but how do you find the studs through the foam?
@@3rett115I’m having the same dilemma…we’re wanting to add faux rock panels and we’ll be 24” oc so our only hope is to find the panels we like that will run 24” oc and connect furring strips to the studs.
@@michelleshafer3330 Yeah, every time I explore trying to figure out how to install external insulation, the cost and added labor (doing it myself) just don't seem worth it. I always come back to 24 oc, poor man's spray foam, and air sealing to the max being the most practical/cost effective. I'm really thinking external insulation, especially spray foam, is a luxury.
What is the best wall materials for an air conditioned room built inside a metal building? Cost effective and energy efficient in a hot climate, Houston? No exposure to sun/elements.....
For a Florida type climate, can the blue brackets be installed in poured concrete or concrete blocks? If so, a separate video on that would also be of interest.
My only concern have always been about spray foam is demo cost, when things don’t go as planned, spray foam is much harder to remove versus blanket or blown insulation. Add to that the compared cost of material and installation and it begins not to make any sense. I do agree it is a great product and has its uses.
I agree. I think you could. Perfect way to nail your blue clips your studs. Easy way to make sure you hit the studs then an easy way to add furring strips/ make sure they are square.
@@martingardens Yes, the back of the bracket is the same as our InSoFast panels with the built-in dovetails to mechanically attach to the adhesive. We will be releasing instructions for shipping container installation for interiors and exteriors soon! Keep in mind, your climate zone and container usage does suggest which surface is better to insulate.. but both are acceptable!
If you were adding this to the outside of a house over top of the existing exterior what would have to be done to the windows. If nothing was done to them they would be recessed into the building materials. Also what is the fire rating of the foam? I have seen videos of foam insulation on houses going up in flames. That along with the potential for failure of the foam, possible problems with air quality and fire made me change my mind and decide that rockwool or dense pack cellulose was the insulation i would want to use.
For existing windows, you would have to add a window buck and our window gutter system. Most spray foam is class I fire rated, meaning it will not act as a catalyst in case of a fire and it will self extinguish. That being said, you can also use our products with blown in rockwool or dense pack cellulose!
If doing this over an existing, older home with clapboard, shouldn’t you add a WRB over the clapboard before putting the blue things on? My house from the 50s is still using that original tar paper behind the clapboard.
Was there any info on sound differences with a metal roof or siding? Would be interesting to install in the barndo we are going to build already a huge fan of the other products
Most spray foam is class I fire rated, meaning it will not act as a catalyst in case of a fire and it will self extinguish. There have been cases in the past where spray foam off gasses after installation, but it is rare and is a result of improper installation. We recommend finding an experienced installer. We recommend Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance accredited installers.
We'll be releasing more information within the next few weeks! Check back on our website or subscribe to the X-Bracket mailing list. We'll have those wall visuals out soon. Thanks for following along!! www.insofast.com/x-bracket-system
I don't think you explained the plusses of ventilation enough; moisture in walls is always a concern with spray foam but the ventilation should cut it in half or more. And if spray foam isn't mixed right it can create indoor toxic air this would almost completely remove that possibility. My only question is would it make much of a difference between encapsulated foam vs none encapsulated foam ? Would none encapsulated foam still absorb water in a system like this?
With the spray foam being applied on the exterior, there is the opportunity to outgas to the exterior air. To isolate the spray foam from the interior, you can use a product like Polyguard UX2-40 ( polyguard.com/product/polyguard-uv40 ) to seal out the potential for offgassing to the interior. It is very important to have the necessary amount of exterior insulation to eliminate condensation in colder climate (zones 4-8). We also recommend closed cell spray foam because it is a vapor control layer in addition to a water control layer. If you want to use the open cell spray foam, you will need to add an additional water resistant barrier (WRB) over the foam. We recommend visiting the Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA) to learn about certifications www.sprayfoam.org/pcp/certprogram/ and to find a local installer members.sprayfoam.org/contractors/ with the experience and certification that you want.
It is possible to use such a system, however your insulation performance would take a substantual hit from the thermal bridging through the steel studs. In addition to that, the system would also require structural engineering in most jurisdictions (Especially if used on the roof). Our system is preengineered with national code approvals coming soon.
You mentioned blown in rockwool. Would blown in cellulose work as well? How would these materials deal with moisture because even behind a house wrap I'm sure the insulation will get some water back there, and it appears you have a ledge at the bottom that might cause water to collect.
The guy In the video helped pioneer SIP. Looks like he just hacked a SIP system using standard stick framing building techniques and cost. He has Said in a Risinger video was the problem with SIP was that it requires some specialization and the work force of the contracting industry didn't want to adapt to this specialization.
@sparksmcgee6641 So misinformed. Strawbale started over a century ago and still building beautiful houses today. Surviving wildfires and other natural disasters while the stick and plastic stuff is a casualty. And that’s on top of just being healthier day to day.
@johnlee7085 No you're missinformed. I got interested in energy efficiency in about 1982-3. I've had decades in construction and I specialize in super tight, super insulated homes with at least a 100 year architectural rating. Bail houses are crap have always been crap. Doing a cabin in the woods or desert and want to do it, fine. Claim it's better that standard construction? That's a lie. And yes I'll beat you on carbon cost also and I don't even care about that.
@sparksmcgee6641 That’s cute. I’ve got by a decade plus three degrees from leading universities. Glad to hear you are interested in energy efficiency and specialize in super insulated homes. That doesn’t change being ignorant about strawbale construction, though it is understandable that you would look down on construction that breathes if you have invested yourself in convincing your customers that super tight is something they need to pay extra for. If plastics, and similar materials, that are you’re standard, then that too is understandable. In the woods, in the desert, wherever you want want is fine, and definitely better that standard construction. Rather interesting that you switched from talking about super tight, super insulated homes to standard construction. Rather undermining for your credibility. And carbon cost is a bunch of smoke and mirrors nonsense to make shortsighted people feel better about themselves.
I see a lot of potential for this new product. One thing I'm curious about is the framing detail down near the sill plate area for the external insulation. Is there a ledge framed on the exterior to support and hold in, the blown in insulation? *Edit* .... I see now at the 4:25 mark, there's a white, flashing/base channel, at the base of the wall. Pinned to the wall and anchored on the outside to the new, blue, InSoFast attachment points. That would hold the blown in insulation inside the envelope. Also, I'm wondering if a person could attach these to a shipping container inside and out, using Loctite adhesive, and then attach exterior framing to your new attachment points. I could see where they could be used inside and outside a shipping container like this. I'm wondering what the height of this new attachment point is, and how far it would stick out if placed in the groove/negative corrugation space in a container? Does it clear the raised corrugation adjacent. Fun product... Looking forward to seeing more. Always looking for a better mouse trap. 🙂
Thanks for noticing and YES there is a white U channel in place. We actually took that out on the demo project and replaced it with a wood ledger to allow drainage and allow full ventilation for the rain screen. We do have examples of how to do the bottom of the wall.....coming soon😉 We will be producing two X-Brackets to start with: 2.5” and 3.75” and are working on other sizes up to 11” The corrugation depth is generally 1-3/8” deep so there several configurations to get the amount of insulation desired. Looking forward to showing you more 🙌
@@insofast-continuous-insulation Looks like we've got a lot of experts here in the comment section. >;-) I come back every couple days just to read the comments.... >:-D
5:14 @@LOGDOG5375my favorite is the alleged consultant who says he knows 5 better ways to do the same thing. Just never list even one. The. Then there is the guy who says he'd use ICF which is at least 10x more expensive and specialized, concrete blocks are less specialized and still many more times as expensive as stick framing. They don't see the Forrest for the trees. If you got the money for ICF what is he even doing in the comments.
Icf is definitely better than this, solid concrete wall with insulation on the inside and outside and you don’t need three different contractors to come in and get ready for finishing. One contractor can do your foundation, framing and insulation. And I promise a concrete house will withstand a hurricane better than this product
That's where we came from, actually. We created our first panel, the 2.0, stemming from ICF. We use this product most efficiently in basements where you can adhere it directly to concrete walls.
The thing about your assembly that's worrisome is the vapor barrier under the drywall. It seems that you're going to have drying problems. It will only be able to dry to the outside and that is a problem in warmer climates. It's a cold climate solution only. I get your concerns about materials but it's more about how you put them together. I'm leaning towards their original Insofast over Zip system. I'm in a mixed humid climate so the double stud is too risky for moisture reasons. Your solution is good for cold climates so I'm not debating you on that. I think it's Sweden that has a really interesting platform framing technique where the walls go down to the sill. Anyway, they are superior builders over there
This seems labor intensive and costly versus building a thermally broken wall with zip r 10 sheathing and then adding either internal or external additional insulation with comfort board or mineral wool batting.
It is said that AIR is the greatest insulator. So why dont we build our houses with a 2nd sheet of roofing underlayment to create a small air gap with ventilation? The blistering hot sun would beat down on the top layer cooking the shingles & the air gay underneath would ventilate the heat out. I can see the attic being MAJOR cooler that when the underside of the roof underlayment is exposed directly to the attic as most all buildings are now. Seems it would be a simple solution with major benifits. !
Its a good idea until the foam fails. I got a bad sprayfoam job 18 months ago and the contractor refuses to fix it and the lawsuit would cost more then the fix. Next week a contractor will be fixing it using exterior foam board on the walls and roof. The fix for my little 512 sqft cottage is going to run me close to 30k. So i say dont trust sprayfoam
Extremely sorry to hear you had to deal with that fiasco. We do recognize that there are issues within the spray foam industry. We are curious if your failure was caused by high moisture content in the surfaces it was applied to. We would be interested in finding out more about your project...feel free to shoot us an email marketing@insofast.com
Everything is good until something fails. That’s the nature of failure: it don’t work good no more. A bad install doesn’t really tell you anything about the actual product just about the quality of the contractor you hired.
You have to make tees as it would be difficult to drive long screws through the edge. IE 1x2 oversized to & screwed into a 2x4 to form a Tee. Only issue is is increased thermal bridging.
You could use such a system, however you are incerasing thermal bridging. In addition to that, the system would also require structural engineering in most jurisdictions (Especially if used on the roof). Our system is preengineered with national code approvals coming soon.
That is where the cross-ventelated rainscreen comes into play. The heat from the shingles will cause air inside the rainscreen to rise towards a ridge vent creating what is called a convective loop, that not only cools the roof, but also quickly drys out any moisture infiltration.
i love your engagement and you’re dead right on all the comments i’ve read this far! but 😅, those “loops” only happen on the inside of houses where the same air goes round and round, hence “loop”. outside, it won’t be a loop it’ll just be a river or whatever. just trying to make you stronger.❤
Plastic brackets, spray foam, OSB? My B.S. detector is going off, big time. T&G plywood sheething caulked as necessary, double stud cavity with several insulated inches between and an insulated, reflective vapour barrier under the drywall will net you a R-40 to R-60 in the walls depending on dementions. The Danish have used the double-stud technique for a very long time. As far as I know, it is building code over there as well. If it has been proven effective by the Danes for decades, it will be just as effective here in northern Canada, were I live. Did I mention they don't use spray foam? It is synthetic plastic and is bound to break down and shrink, causing gaps; and that's if it is mixed/applied correctly. It's not an issue of will it, it is just an issue of when. Choose your materials carefully.
I've never had spray foam shrink. I'm in the Mid Atlantic. Maybe in Canada that cold makes everything shrink. People get weird about foam I think its the whole green weenie thing. I put in 2 inches of foam. Then on the Inside I use Aluminum double bubble. and tape it off. Cuts the heating bill by 80% every time. Need AC maybe 2 weeks out of the year. Spray foam isn't plastic and the closed cell just sits there.
Its not BS. The system you described is a great system. In this video they are doing a retrofit. You could make a double stud wall on the outside of this existing wall too, sort of. Yes one could use this for new construction too. If you ARE doing new construction, then all choices are available. They are just doing something different. Encasing the entire envelope from ridge to grade with one system is VERY intriguing, IMO.
Who cares if the Danes don't use spray foam. The only thing better than spray foam is aerogel or vacuum insulated panels. The idea that you have to double stud everything and have walls 2 ft thick is ridiculous it's the 21st century I think we could do better...
@@mojo1169vj I've been saying this for years. The Last House I rehabbed I used 2 inches of foam and a aluminum double bubble. I cut MY HVAC Bill by 80% it literally paid for itself. My EX won't sell the House.
Ya I still don't trust the stuff. I member years back they said spray foam was OK. Than 20 yrs later they said it had to come out of the house. I stay old school
They aren't saying anything about foam coming out of the house. Unless you're in Europe where every idio started spraying foam because they were paying out energy efficiency checks.
They stop EPS in Baton Rouge houses were rotting and termites from eps stucco. I am plaster for 20 years stay away from this stuff your house needs to breath insurance will not insurance your house if you use this
That sounds terrible. Shoot us a link to that article if you can! Thankfully we've never run into that problem with our panels. Also, the X-Bracket will be compatible with spray foam and blow-in insulation (not EPS).
Two problems: 1- the cost of the foam 2- degradation of polyiso over time On the flip side, in extreme climates where permeating temps in the teens are routine... there's the problem of moisture content in rigid foam insulation, where its R-value hits the floor beyond freezing. I dig the idea of using a roving insulation, but it's on the wrong side for peak effectiveness. Your insulation is a thermal buffer... not a generator.... just as more dense materials yield thermal mass, are best viewed as thermal batteries. In more temperate regions, IMPs, aka steel-skinned SIPs are a far better option to obtain both R-value and eliminate thermal bridging. You also get similar (if not better) wind and wind-driven projectile resistance.😮
@@JamesCopeland-i1j polyurethane. He was clear about that. Also anyone that knows this kind of foam knows that. It's been around forever. Used on tanks a lot and it's a finish product in some forms. Sprayed on and no overcoats needed. Lot of industrial use in factories
You just discovered that insulation on outside works better? Meh, europe know this trick from centuries! All eu houses are insulated from outside, not inside like in US. Also you discovered thermal bridges? Fantastic! Simple physics! 2024 american builder finally understand what was known in europe since 18-19 th century, I am impressed!
There are still plenty of things needing change in the us construction industry, but this latest bit of marketing is not the result of suddenly learning.
We stomped a mudhole in you guys and walked it dry in the 18’th century....tone down your ridiculous narcissistic arrogance and snap out of your false reality! “Look at me, I’m an insulation genius, blah blah blah....”....
Oh shut up. I've spent plenty of time in European homes. They aren't that great. And training videos start with the basics of an install for the product. You're so ignorant you don't know what type of video you're watching. Show us the videos of European companies training workers.
@@Matt-The-Builder actually this type of technology has existed for 50+ years. When the roof foam cracks or gets a hole you wont know you have a leak until you have to cut that whole side of the roof off.
That was the worst presentation ever. WTF do the blue things do? WTF is behind the foam? Is this a panel of some sort that the blue brackets hold in place?
@@rachelseibert3847 I'm fine. Why do you ask? I have a tendency to be very blunt sometimes. Or, maybe I had a stroke and wasn't able to understand what the video was about. Maybe you can explain it to me.
Dang, our goal wasn't to confuse you to oblivion.. but that being said, the blue things (the X-Bracket) are nailed into your framing over the OSB. Then you fill in all that space with either spray foam or blown-in insulation. Essentially like you are making a continuous blanket of insulation where the blue things hold it all in place (and in turn eliminate thermal bridging...just like our panels!) while giving you an attachment point to add your furring strips and finally, your siding. Oh, and we will be releasing much more content over the next few weeks on this new system to clarify all your unanswered questions! Hope that helped!
@effthegop maybe you are over thinking. The blue things are attached the the wall sheeting. Then you attach furing strips to the blue things. This creates a space between the sheeting and furing strips that is then filled with insulation. Then you put house wrap and siding on the furing strips. The advantage here is you eliminate thermal bridging and have continuous unobstructed insulation. Seems like it would even save time and labor too.
The thing about this system is the blue blocks and the furring strips. That will help keep the foam in place. I wouldn't use any interior stud insulation so it stays nice and dry on the inside of the sheathing.
Fantastic info on external insulation and thermal bridging . Love this stuff
Pretty slick setup., a great idea and will be interesting to see it get traction and be accepted.
Thank you, we are excited for it to be in production and see the brackets in use!
As others have said, so many other options that are better.
@@johnlee7085 name one. explain the thermal bridge, air barrier and thermal performance that's better than using exterior insulation with no thermal bridge.
@fredsnit5699
Review the comments at a minimum to see other options. There are also lots of videos to explain thermal bridging, etc. It’s rather silly expect any sort of reasonable explanation in a comment section, but you probably feel better about yourself and that’s what’s important.
This is a hard no...
Basically modern lathe and plaster framing, only not using the expanded wire mesh backing. I would hope the bottom of the wall has a termite block at the sill and a drip edge for drainage, otherwise its a pretty risky way to build. Looks like the perfect termite breeding ground.
We appreciate your input. Termites are sneaky little things! If you live in a termite infested area, the building codes do require a 6” separation of exposed concrete. A termite screen can easily be added to the bottom of the wall detail. This demo project was done up in South Dakota where, thankfully, the winter generally takes care of that problem.
@@insofast-continuous-insulation Thanks for the reply. It is probably a detail to include so nobody has a DIY termite episode where they blame your product.
A lot of talking about it but very little demo of actual situations. Think I’d rather build an ICF home.
@@JT_70Your are aware the guy in the video helped develop SIP. ICF is 10x the cost. this is standard stick framing thats a fraction of SIP. Must be nice to have ICF money money bags
@@JT_70 We have a video coming out shortly that covers soffit detailing we used for our demo project, so stay tuned for that.
My issue with spray foam is that it’s so operator dependent. If they don’t get everything just perfect there can be big gaps or pulling away etc. Is this new spray foam more forgiving of conditions and operator errors?
Valid question- We get that spray foam quality is operator-dependent. That's why we recommend experienced professionals. The new spray foam has improved environmentally but still requires precise application. As our system becomes available for purchase, we will be sure to offer resources on our website to help you find reputable installers!
@@insofast-continuous-insulation couldn't you do prefab foam panels with built in brackets, with either guide holes for screws outside in or screwed from inside?
Have you ever seen a poorly done fiberglass job? It alway depends on the quality of installer.
@@kashifkhan3040 They have that product already except its EPS foam
Can I buy it?
Matt Risinger, video, what is an over roof. An over roof is vented by the furring strips. New board is added on top of the strips, and then roof as normal. So, no the roof wont bake as there is airflow. This technology is good for an over roof. The video thumbnail shows it.
There's a lot of features on that little blue block that I would like to see more of the design thoughts of.
Shrug: Seems a whole lot more hassle than just using 2" or 3" Rigid foam insulation. Installation of rigid foam can be done by framers & siding companies. Cost for sprayfoam makes it prohibabitly more expensive that just using rigid foam panels. Probably for the cost of 2" of spray foam on the outside, you could do 4" or more of rigid foam panels.
For me the perfect cost effect system is 2x6x24"oc, ZIP sheathing, 2" Rigid foam on outside & rockwool bats on the inside. Beyond that the costs go up while the return on investment crashes (ie picking up pennies in from of a oncoming freight train). For roofing, I recommend SIP panels. My attic never gets much above 80F even with 100F+ outside temperatures. My biggest thermal losses (heating & cooling) are windows.
Totally agree - it's just not worth the huge cost involved.
Serious question. How do you attach siding or furring strips to the outside of the rigid foam? I initially thought long screws, but how do you find the studs through the foam?
@@3rett115I’m having the same dilemma…we’re wanting to add faux rock panels and we’ll be 24” oc so our only hope is to find the panels we like that will run 24” oc and connect furring strips to the studs.
@@michelleshafer3330 Yeah, every time I explore trying to figure out how to install external insulation, the cost and added labor (doing it myself) just don't seem worth it. I always come back to 24 oc, poor man's spray foam, and air sealing to the max being the most practical/cost effective. I'm really thinking external insulation, especially spray foam, is a luxury.
What is the best wall materials for an air conditioned room built inside a metal building? Cost effective and energy efficient in a hot climate, Houston? No exposure to sun/elements.....
For a Florida type climate, can the blue brackets be installed in poured concrete or concrete blocks?
If so, a separate video on that would also be of interest.
Its called icf
@@h2s-i9o I'd be interested to see videos of ICF on elevated structures in Florida, including details of how they handle the roof and roof transition.
@h2s-i9o Oh God no stay away from that con. ICF is the worst.
Just use sheet material
My only concern have always been about spray foam is demo cost, when things don’t go as planned, spray foam is much harder to remove versus blanket or blown insulation. Add to that the compared cost of material and installation and it begins not to make any sense. I do agree it is a great product and has its uses.
Demo cost is not a concern really, you build things to last, otherwise there wouldn't be demo it would be disassembly.
@RealCrypto He did qualify the comment “when things don’t go as planned”.
Good answer. Thanks.
Would love to this system used on the Rockwool comfort board 80. That would be a game changer.
I agree. I think you could. Perfect way to nail your blue clips your studs. Easy way to make sure you hit the studs then an easy way to add furring strips/ make sure they are square.
Very cool!
will this work on the outside of a shipping container .. like to have the foam on the outside of the house and save space inside.
Yes it will!
@@insofast-continuous-insulation So, I imagine you would use an adhesive to locate the bracket and the spray foam to secure it?
@@martingardens Yes, the back of the bracket is the same as our InSoFast panels with the built-in dovetails to mechanically attach to the adhesive. We will be releasing instructions for shipping container installation for interiors and exteriors soon! Keep in mind, your climate zone and container usage does suggest which surface is better to insulate.. but both are acceptable!
@@insofast-continuous-insulationThank you!
Will this hold a brick or cultured rock veneer?
Looks like it. Just about everything can.
How does it burn
How do you install a bug screen at the bottom of the rainscreen with this system?
Ive been looking for clips like these. Im going to shoot 4” closed cell on the exterior of a build I have coming up.
Let's see it!
Why would you housewrap over zip?
How do you frame out the windows to compensate for the thickness of the foam plus furling and finish siding.
Just fur it out.basic framing or finish work
If you were adding this to the outside of a house over top of the existing exterior what would have to be done to the windows. If nothing was done to them they would be recessed into the building materials. Also what is the fire rating of the foam? I have seen videos of foam insulation on houses going up in flames. That along with the potential for failure of the foam, possible problems with air quality and fire made me change my mind and decide that rockwool or dense pack cellulose was the insulation i would want to use.
For existing windows, you would have to add a window buck and our window gutter system. Most spray foam is class I fire rated, meaning it will not act as a catalyst in case of a fire and it will self extinguish.
That being said, you can also use our products with blown in rockwool or dense pack cellulose!
If doing this over an existing, older home with clapboard, shouldn’t you add a WRB over the clapboard before putting the blue things on? My house from the 50s is still using that original tar paper behind the clapboard.
Was there any info on sound differences with a metal roof or siding? Would be interesting to install in the barndo we are going to build already a huge fan of the other products
Spray foam will substantially reduce sound transmission through your metal roof or siding.
Isn't spray foam highly flammable and produce toxic off gassing?
Most spray foam is class I fire rated, meaning it will not act as a catalyst in case of a fire and it will self extinguish. There have been cases in the past where spray foam off gasses after installation, but it is rare and is a result of improper installation. We recommend finding an experienced installer. We recommend Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance accredited installers.
Nope.
The big thing here is - does it burn. I put a blow tourch onto my external insulation samples and could not get them to burn.
Wood and foam worry me.
Most spray foam is class I fire rated, meaning it will not act as a catalyst in case of a fire and it will self extinguish.
Is there a detailed slice through view of a wall using this product? I looked on the website and didn’t see one.
We'll be releasing more information within the next few weeks! Check back on our website or subscribe to the X-Bracket mailing list. We'll have those wall visuals out soon. Thanks for following along!! www.insofast.com/x-bracket-system
@@insofast-continuous-insulationwhen you buy your product will I be able to call and ask someone if I have about anything?
@@rodsdiy9631 Yes of course, always feel free to contact us with any questions you have. (888) 501-7899
I don't think you explained the plusses of ventilation enough; moisture in walls is always a concern with spray foam but the ventilation should cut it in half or more. And if spray foam isn't mixed right it can create indoor toxic air this would almost completely remove that possibility. My only question is would it make much of a difference between encapsulated foam vs none encapsulated foam ? Would none encapsulated foam still absorb water in a system like this?
With the spray foam being applied on the exterior, there is the opportunity to outgas to the exterior air.
To isolate the spray foam from the interior, you can use a product like Polyguard UX2-40
( polyguard.com/product/polyguard-uv40 ) to seal out the potential for offgassing to the interior. It is very important to have the necessary amount of exterior insulation to eliminate condensation in colder climate (zones 4-8). We also recommend closed cell spray foam because it is a vapor control layer in addition to a water control layer. If you want to use the open cell spray foam, you will need to add an additional water resistant barrier (WRB) over the foam.
We recommend visiting the Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA) to learn about certifications www.sprayfoam.org/pcp/certprogram/ and to find a local installer members.sprayfoam.org/contractors/ with the experience and certification that you want.
@@insofast-continuous-insulationIs the polyguard UX2-40 a superior surface for foam adhesion?
ummm you understand the spray foam is on the... outside... so no indoor offgassing....
@@fredsnit5699 I was literally saying it was a point worth pointing out to people
Couldn’t I just use small cuts of steel studs as standoffs and foam guides instead of the plastic blocks I have to buy from you?
It is possible to use such a system, however your insulation performance would take a substantual hit from the thermal bridging through the steel studs. In addition to that, the system would also require structural engineering in most jurisdictions (Especially if used on the roof). Our system is preengineered with national code approvals coming soon.
Specifically what chemistry do you support in spray foam. I liked you other board, though.
You mentioned blown in rockwool. Would blown in cellulose work as well? How would these materials deal with moisture because even behind a house wrap I'm sure the insulation will get some water back there, and it appears you have a ledge at the bottom that might cause water to collect.
Blown in dense pack cellulose will work with this. The ledge at the bottom of the wall is covered with a flashing tape.
Would this work with a SIP system?
The guy In the video helped pioneer SIP. Looks like he just hacked a SIP system using standard stick framing building techniques and cost. He has Said in a Risinger video was the problem with SIP was that it requires some specialization and the work force of the contracting industry didn't want to adapt to this specialization.
@@rodsdiy9631 sips dont require anything specialized
There is definitely a healthier way to build than spray foam. Strawbale construction is definitely healthier.
Oh God Straw
Bale is crap.
People reading magazines from the 70s.
@sparksmcgee6641 So misinformed. Strawbale started over a century ago and still building beautiful houses today. Surviving wildfires and other natural disasters while the stick and plastic stuff is a casualty. And that’s on top of just being healthier day to day.
@johnlee7085 No you're missinformed.
I got interested in energy efficiency in about 1982-3. I've had decades in construction and I specialize in super tight, super insulated homes with at least a 100 year architectural rating.
Bail houses are crap have always been crap. Doing a cabin in the woods or desert and want to do it, fine. Claim it's better that standard construction? That's a lie.
And yes I'll beat you on carbon cost also and I don't even care about that.
@sparksmcgee6641
That’s cute. I’ve got by a decade plus three degrees from leading universities.
Glad to hear you are interested in energy efficiency and specialize in super insulated homes. That doesn’t change being ignorant about strawbale construction, though it is understandable that you would look down on construction that breathes if you have invested yourself in convincing your customers that super tight is something they need to pay extra for. If plastics, and similar materials, that are you’re standard, then that too is understandable.
In the woods, in the desert, wherever you want want is fine, and definitely better that standard construction. Rather interesting that you switched from talking about super tight, super insulated homes to standard construction. Rather undermining for your credibility.
And carbon cost is a bunch of smoke and mirrors nonsense to make shortsighted people feel better about themselves.
I see a lot of potential for this new product. One thing I'm curious about is the framing detail down near the sill plate area for the external insulation. Is there a ledge framed on the exterior to support and hold in, the blown in insulation?
*Edit* .... I see now at the 4:25 mark, there's a white, flashing/base channel, at the base of the wall. Pinned to the wall and anchored on the outside to the new, blue, InSoFast attachment points. That would hold the blown in insulation inside the envelope.
Also, I'm wondering if a person could attach these to a shipping container inside and out, using Loctite adhesive, and then attach exterior framing to your new attachment points. I could see where they could be used inside and outside a shipping container like this. I'm wondering what the height of this new attachment point is, and how far it would stick out if placed in the groove/negative corrugation space in a container? Does it clear the raised corrugation adjacent.
Fun product... Looking forward to seeing more. Always looking for a better mouse trap. 🙂
Thanks for noticing and YES there is a white U channel in place. We actually took that out on the demo project and replaced it with a wood ledger to allow drainage and allow full ventilation for the rain screen. We do have examples of how to do the bottom of the wall.....coming soon😉
We will be producing two X-Brackets to start with: 2.5” and 3.75” and are working on other sizes up to 11” The corrugation depth is generally 1-3/8” deep so there several configurations to get the amount of insulation desired.
Looking forward to showing you more 🙌
@@insofast-continuous-insulation Looks like we've got a lot of experts here in the comment section. >;-) I come back every couple days just to read the comments.... >:-D
5:14 @@LOGDOG5375my favorite is the alleged consultant who says he knows 5 better ways to do the same thing. Just never list even one. The. Then there is the guy who says he'd use ICF which is at least 10x more expensive and specialized, concrete blocks are less specialized and still many more times as expensive as stick framing. They don't see the Forrest for the trees. If you got the money for ICF what is he even doing in the comments.
When are you guys going to start building ICF forms?
Icf is definitely better than this, solid concrete wall with insulation on the inside and outside and you don’t need three different contractors to come in and get ready for finishing. One contractor can do your foundation, framing and insulation. And I promise a concrete house will withstand a hurricane better than this product
That's where we came from, actually. We created our first panel, the 2.0, stemming from ICF. We use this product most efficiently in basements where you can adhere it directly to concrete walls.
Your missing the point bruv. This is about bang for your bucky. Plenty of companies already making ICF
What is the cost of the brackets?
We'll have answers on pricing closer to the release date! Stay tuned!
Interesting. I think i get it but more visual instead of talking. One person asked for cutaway drawing which would be very helpful.
There's plenty more to come. We will be releasing more content as we get closer to the release date of the product!
The thing about your assembly that's worrisome is the vapor barrier under the drywall. It seems that you're going to have drying problems. It will only be able to dry to the outside and that is a problem in warmer climates. It's a cold climate solution only. I get your concerns about materials but it's more about how you put them together. I'm leaning towards their original Insofast over Zip system. I'm in a mixed humid climate so the double stud is too risky for moisture reasons. Your solution is good for cold climates so I'm not debating you on that. I think it's Sweden that has a really interesting platform framing technique where the walls go down to the sill. Anyway, they are superior builders over there
Wouldn't a whole house dehumidifier system solve the problems you bring up? It's an expensive solution for sure but you have to Have ERV anyway.
Can you use this inside of a shipping container?
Oh yeah!
I would prefer outside a shipping container.
@@karlaj.5923 That works, too 😁
@@karlaj.5923 you have to insulate both sides of shipping containers or you will have condensation
This seems labor intensive and costly versus building a thermally broken wall with zip r 10 sheathing and then adding either internal or external additional insulation with comfort board or mineral wool batting.
It is said that AIR is the greatest insulator. So why dont we build our houses with a 2nd sheet of roofing
underlayment to create a small air gap with ventilation? The blistering hot sun would beat down on the
top layer cooking the shingles & the air gay underneath would ventilate the heat out. I can see the attic
being MAJOR cooler that when the underside of the roof underlayment is exposed directly to the attic as
most all buildings are now. Seems it would be a simple solution with major benifits.
!
I think that’s what the 1xs on top do. Creates an air gap.
Its a good idea until the foam fails. I got a bad sprayfoam job 18 months ago and the contractor refuses to fix it and the lawsuit would cost more then the fix. Next week a contractor will be fixing it using exterior foam board on the walls and roof. The fix for my little 512 sqft cottage is going to run me close to 30k. So i say dont trust sprayfoam
I’d like more details on the cost for a small project.
Extremely sorry to hear you had to deal with that fiasco. We do recognize that there are issues within the spray foam industry. We are curious if your failure was caused by high moisture content in the surfaces it was applied to. We would be interested in finding out more about your project...feel free to shoot us an email marketing@insofast.com
@@mikhailarey1196 details on pricing will be released soon. Stay tuned!
Small claims court and reporting them to the relevant city and state might help
Everything is good until something fails. That’s the nature of failure: it don’t work good no more.
A bad install doesn’t really tell you anything about the actual product just about the quality of the contractor you hired.
Why not just cut a bunch of uniform size wood blocks instead of those plastic gizmos?
You have to make tees as it would be difficult to drive long screws through the edge. IE 1x2 oversized to & screwed into a 2x4 to form a Tee. Only issue is is increased thermal bridging.
You could use such a system, however you are incerasing thermal bridging. In addition to that, the system would also require structural engineering in most jurisdictions (Especially if used on the roof). Our system is preengineered with national code approvals coming soon.
Not strong enough to hold anything like that.
35 years as a building enclosure consultant. This is a messy protracted disaster! 5 ways I can do this better and cleaner.
Don't put shingles on that roof, they will bake.
Please explain.
That is where the cross-ventelated rainscreen comes into play. The heat from the shingles will cause air inside the rainscreen to rise towards a ridge vent creating what is called a convective loop, that not only cools the roof, but also quickly drys out any moisture infiltration.
i love your engagement and you’re dead right on all the comments i’ve read this far! but 😅, those “loops” only happen on the inside of houses where the same air goes round and round, hence “loop”. outside, it won’t be a loop it’ll just be a river or whatever. just trying to make you stronger.❤
Looks like a lot of plastic parts to fix a problem that doesn’t exist.
Plastic brackets, spray foam, OSB? My B.S. detector is going off, big time. T&G plywood sheething caulked as necessary, double stud cavity with several insulated inches between and an insulated, reflective vapour barrier under the drywall will net you a R-40 to R-60 in the walls depending on dementions. The Danish have used the double-stud technique for a very long time. As far as I know, it is building code over there as well. If it has been proven effective by the Danes for decades, it will be just as effective here in northern Canada, were I live. Did I mention they don't use spray foam? It is synthetic plastic and is bound to break down and shrink, causing gaps; and that's if it is mixed/applied correctly. It's not an issue of will it, it is just an issue of when. Choose your materials carefully.
I've never had spray foam shrink. I'm in the Mid Atlantic. Maybe in Canada that cold makes everything shrink. People get weird about foam I think its the whole green weenie thing. I put in 2 inches of foam. Then on the Inside I use Aluminum double bubble. and tape it off. Cuts the heating bill by 80% every time. Need AC maybe 2 weeks out of the year. Spray foam isn't plastic and the closed cell just sits there.
Its not BS. The system you described is a great system. In this video they are doing a retrofit. You could make a double stud wall on the outside of this existing wall too, sort of. Yes one could use this for new construction too. If you ARE doing new construction, then all choices are available. They are just doing something different. Encasing the entire envelope from ridge to grade with one system is VERY intriguing, IMO.
Who cares if the Danes don't use spray foam. The only thing better than spray foam is aerogel or vacuum insulated panels. The idea that you have to double stud everything and have walls 2 ft thick is ridiculous it's the 21st century I think we could do better...
@@mojo1169vj I've been saying this for years. The Last House I rehabbed I used 2 inches of foam and a aluminum double bubble. I cut MY HVAC Bill by 80% it literally paid for itself. My EX won't sell the House.
A tight house is a sick house
dum comment. do some research.
Kentucky Fried Chicken? Really? Never heard of the Kentucky Derby horse race??????
Ya I still don't trust the stuff. I member years back they said spray foam was OK. Than 20 yrs later they said it had to come out of the house. I stay old school
And as he demonstrated you can use Rockwool or other blown in insulation. Why fixate on the spray foam?
They aren't saying anything about foam coming out of the house.
Unless you're in Europe where every idio started spraying foam because they were paying out energy efficiency checks.
wow pretty cool er hot er cool oh fiddlesticks
Too expensive
I saw the particle board and knew this was not a serious thing. Serious construction does not use particle board.
They stop EPS in Baton Rouge houses were rotting and termites from eps stucco. I am plaster for 20 years stay away from this stuff your house needs to breath insurance will not insurance your house if you use this
That sounds terrible. Shoot us a link to that article if you can! Thankfully we've never run into that problem with our panels. Also, the X-Bracket will be compatible with spray foam and blow-in insulation (not EPS).
A house needs controlled breathing. Not air movement from poor building.
Oh God an old timer that never reads directions saying homes need to "breath".
Two problems:
1- the cost of the foam
2- degradation of polyiso over time
On the flip side, in extreme climates where permeating temps in the teens are routine... there's the problem of moisture content in rigid foam insulation, where its R-value hits the floor beyond freezing. I dig the idea of using a roving insulation, but it's on the wrong side for peak effectiveness. Your insulation is a thermal buffer... not a generator.... just as more dense materials yield thermal mass, are best viewed as thermal batteries.
In more temperate regions, IMPs, aka steel-skinned SIPs are a far better option to obtain both R-value and eliminate thermal bridging. You also get similar (if not better) wind and wind-driven projectile resistance.😮
It's not polyiso.
I find that hard to believe. What is it? @sparksmcgee6641
@@JamesCopeland-i1j polyurethane. He was clear about that.
Also anyone that knows this kind of foam knows that. It's been around forever. Used on tanks a lot and it's a finish product in some forms. Sprayed on and no overcoats needed. Lot of industrial use in factories
You just discovered that insulation on outside works better? Meh, europe know this trick from centuries! All eu houses are insulated from outside, not inside like in US. Also you discovered thermal bridges? Fantastic! Simple physics! 2024 american builder finally understand what was known in europe since 18-19 th century, I am impressed!
thanks.
For a bunch of geniuses why did you all let your country be invaded by migrants and no ability to protect yourself and your families? Narcissists!
There are still plenty of things needing change in the us construction industry, but this latest bit of marketing is not the result of suddenly learning.
We stomped a mudhole in you guys and walked it dry in the 18’th century....tone down your ridiculous narcissistic arrogance and snap out of your false reality! “Look at me, I’m an insulation genius, blah blah blah....”....
Oh shut up. I've spent plenty of time in European homes. They aren't that great.
And training videos start with the basics of an install for the product.
You're so ignorant you don't know what type of video you're watching.
Show us the videos of European companies training workers.
Wow....US building went from Bad to Worse.
You are not going to get more water and air tight than this. You don't need to be afraid of everything new.
@@Matt-The-Builder you dont want water tight you want a drainage path
“Global warming”, “sustainable”? What a baffun. Outta here
LOL what's a baffun?
go back to your corner, eating glue.
This is an awful idea. Disaster waiting to happen.
It is more likely to save your house from disaster. A roof leak would never make it inside the house.
@@Matt-The-Builder actually this type of technology has existed for 50+ years. When the roof foam cracks or gets a hole you wont know you have a leak until you have to cut that whole side of the roof off.
That was the worst presentation ever. WTF do the blue things do? WTF is behind the foam? Is this a panel of some sort that the blue brackets hold in place?
are you okay?
@@rachelseibert3847 I'm fine. Why do you ask? I have a tendency to be very blunt sometimes. Or, maybe I had a stroke and wasn't able to understand what the video was about. Maybe you can explain it to me.
Dang, our goal wasn't to confuse you to oblivion.. but that being said, the blue things (the X-Bracket) are nailed into your framing over the OSB. Then you fill in all that space with either spray foam or blown-in insulation. Essentially like you are making a continuous blanket of insulation where the blue things hold it all in place (and in turn eliminate thermal bridging...just like our panels!) while giving you an attachment point to add your furring strips and finally, your siding. Oh, and we will be releasing much more content over the next few weeks on this new system to clarify all your unanswered questions! Hope that helped!
@@insofast-continuous-insulationSo you spray foam over the blue things? None of this makes sense. I will check back.
@effthegop maybe you are over thinking. The blue things are attached the the wall sheeting. Then you attach furing strips to the blue things. This creates a space between the sheeting and furing strips that is then filled with insulation. Then you put house wrap and siding on the furing strips. The advantage here is you eliminate thermal bridging and have continuous unobstructed insulation. Seems like it would even save time and labor too.