"The cheaper the better...." That is the worst masking tape advice I've ever heard! :-) In the UK,manufacturing standards and legal protections for 'consumers' have got so low that it is now 100% legal to sell unusable trash to honest citizens. In fact it has become the norm since the politicians betrayed the public and did a deal with the dragon. If u bought the cheapest masking tape in the Uk,you would be emptying the Swear Jar every day :-)))
I see this is an older video by now but it's still great to see. I'm wandering, how safe is this methode and 2th, can you also deal with mortises which are wider then your routerbit? Thanks for sharing!
why drop down on to the bit at the end of the mortise? couldn't you be more precise dropping somewhere in the middle and walking it back? ...it's a long piece so stop blocks might have been difficult to set up and certainly more time consuming, but it seems they'd also be more precise just because they are repeatable with higher precision.
I'm just about to try making nesting tables for my mum and was hoping to try out my new router and table. Thanks so much. I'll probably watch your video a few more times but you've explained it well.
sorry, but you have very accurate equipment, but don't know how to use it, except by "eye" ,,, very inaccurate and repea table only by " close enough" the whole time I'm looking at a stop collet system on top of the fence. digital caliper yet alignment is " about there"
My suggestion is to lower the piece onto the tool in the middle of the mortise, rather than trying to begin the cut on one of the limits lines, and then work your way, back and forth toward the lines. Also not very safe to measure the height of the bit while the router is powered on and running.
I have 3. One in the shop, one at my desk, & one at work. Great calculators and last a long time. I think I purchased my first one in 1975. A buddy at work has one as well.
@@rodc4334 Hi Rod. That would be correct. I purchased it while I was doing my first engineering internship. (I was given two more by a friend who didn't know how to use them).
I think Steve is the only woodworker with an "Extreme"ly sharp handled brush. Maybe it's for the big chips :B or maybe the slider got to it. Excellent tutorial!
Thanks Ronnie - the brush was in the tool tray and partially obscured - it just looks sharp. After 38 years, all the sharp edges on the brush have worn down. Steve
Thanks Guy, Ahh - the good old days of yesteryear when we made more test cuts than work pieces. It is so nice to do one setup and have it right the first (or second) time.
I used the digital caliper to dial in the thickness of some bridge material for my Leigh dovetail jig as .002 to small and it will fall out. Sign me up into the "close tolerance club"!
With a mortise that's quite close to an end you should really have at least a one inch horn left on the top of the wood so that when you're routing towards the top edge (your second cut) you can't blow out the end. Then cut the horn off off afterwards. Bill Hylton says so. So it must be right. Bill Hylton is Router God.
Steven, Oooh, sweet! You're using your classic HP-12C -- my all-time favorite financial calculator. I even love its "RPN." You could amaze us with an Internal Rate of Return, Depreciation, Present Value, Amortization, and all sorts of other neat and wonderful calculations, too. You definitely have all the best toys. You're making me turn Festool green with lust and envy. : D
I doubt that anyone would be amazed by my financial calculations since it is actually an HP 11C scientific calculator. It is ashamed that RPN calculators aren't common, they are so much easier to use. Plus, you have the advantage that no one asks to borrow it since they don't know how to use it. LOL. Steve
Thank you. A great system that I look forward to trying next week. I love the little folding saddle square. Can you identify a manufacturer or place where I can purchase one?
Rex, the saddle square was made in Oregon by Bridge City Toolworks and unfortunately is no longer made. The only way to get them now is on the used market. Steve
Very nice tutorial, easy to follow and get results. Was wondering about the long pointed mechanical pencil and the chalk? holder you used to mark the location of the mortises(Visor?)
Thanks Pat. The products are made by Pica that I picked up from Lee Valley. The chalk is really a crayon which is good for marking rough cuts. The pencil is the Pica Dry. Here is the link: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121 Steve
Jeff, I purchased the router table used. The lift is a Jointech brand but was made by Jessum in Canada. Mine is the Mast-r-lift but is different than the current Mast-r-lift-II. If you already have a router to use in a table, I do like the Jessum. I have no complaints about the Jessum and the only con I have found is interference with the Jessum Mite-r-slide by the height adjustment handle when the fence is too close. Steve
ExtremeWoodworker 3 years ago I have had several questions about what specific bits were used in the video: 1) The mortises were cut with a Magnate Spiral 2 Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, MicroGrain Carbide, Right-Hand : p/n 2006 2) The tenon was cut with a CMT Dado and Planer Bit p/n 852.504.11 Steve
The marking gauge was purchased from Lee Valley. They call it the Pocket Marking Gauge. The pencil is a Pica but you have to purchase the white lead separately. Be aware that the lead is quite soft so don't bear down on it. Steve
I have had several questions about what specific bits were used in the video: 1) The mortises were cut with a Magnate Spiral 2 Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, MicroGrain Carbide, Right-Hand : p/n 2006 2) The tenon was cut with a CMT Dado and Planer Bit p/n 852.504.11 Steve
Hi Steve - thanks for a great tutorial. I am wondering about the setup for your tenon jig. Do you need to use it with the same bit/fence configuration each time for it to be effective at preventing tear-out?
Nice job. Nice video work... Nice presence! I wanted to be a tool and die maker and that never happened. I got a digital caliper as a Christmas gift and picked up a Wixey digital height gauge at an auction new in the pack cheap. Using the digital tools to set router bit heights, move the table saw fence a few thousandths, etc has proven very rewarding (and super accurate). Hey it's woodworking but for those of us that demand a little better fit, it is the way to go. Thank you for your efforts on the videos and I look forward to more good stuff! Best to you!
Thanks Jeff. The beauty of these type setup tools is that it is a once or twice adjustment and you are done. When I did this with the table saw tenoning jig, many test cuts to get it right. This way is much quicker. Steve
ExtremeWoodworker Hi Steve. I enjoyed this video and picked up a few tips so thanks for that. I also like the other videos that I have watched so far. I also like your shop and the tools. Speaking of tools, is the router table used in this video a hybrid setup. What I mean is the fence with the rod on top looks like a JessEm fence that attaches to JessEm right angle fence, but the back arm that adjusts the fence depth in and out looks like it could be part of the Incra router fence system. If that's the case, would you please do a video on the fence system and the Incra fence adjustment system? I have a full JessEm system with the right angle fence and have been debating if I want to figure out a way to mount the Incra fence adjuster system to my current JessEm table or get just Incra's fence adjuster or put an put and Incra fence and adjuster on my JessEm router table or get an all Incra router table system.... You thoughts on the subject? Hahaha Sorry for being so long winded! Thanks in advance.
Thanks Ron. The router table fence is a Jointech with the Jessum Mite-r-slide that I purchased used. Ilike the Jessum quite a bit but sometimes it gets in the way when doing tall stock and when using the handle to raise the lift. I don't have the Incra fence system but that is the one I would purchase today if in the market. Steve
Hi Mark, The marker is a Pica-Dry mechanical pencil and can be purchased in the US from either Lee Valley or Toolnut. Be aware the leads are very soft particularly the white. Here is a link: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121 Steve
Funny - I always have written three's this way and find it awkward to write them from the top down. I remember this always upset my 4th grade teacher and she tried very hard to get me to change. It even came up during those parent teacher conferences - go figure.
Steve I did this method cutting mortises on some board edges a while ago and I noticed sometimes th wood wanted to shoot away unless I really held onto it. Maybe I'm too new to that but wondered if you experienced it too? I was using a spiral upcut bit. Maybe that was why?
Hi Dave, what you describe sounds like a reaction you would get from a climb cut. You should not have experienced that with a spiral upcut bit since both sides of the bit are cutting the wood. I have not experienced that doing the M&T on the router table. That one leaves me a bit baffled. Steve
Since you ate cutting on both sides of the bit the wood is trapped between the bit and the fence. The wood is trying to shoot out of there because it’s trapped in there. Also the bit is trying to push the wood away from the fence. If you feed from left tho right you won’t have that climb
Math!!! I love this method of making tenons. I can now make tight fitting tenons every time. I simply can not thank you enough. Well done!!
I've watched this about five times preparatory to my first try. Thank you. Excellent.
I don't know if anyone else has commented on this, but mad props for the HP-11C. That brings back a lot of memories!
Thanks for sharing
"The cheaper the better...."
That is the worst masking tape advice I've ever heard! :-)
In the UK,manufacturing standards and legal protections for 'consumers' have got so low that it is now 100% legal to sell unusable trash to honest citizens.
In fact it has become the norm since the politicians betrayed the public and did a deal with the dragon.
If u bought the cheapest masking tape in the Uk,you would be emptying the Swear Jar every day :-)))
I see this is an older video by now but it's still great to see. I'm wandering, how safe is this methode and 2th, can you also deal with mortises which are wider then your routerbit?
Thanks for sharing!
why drop down on to the bit at the end of the mortise? couldn't you be more precise dropping somewhere in the middle and walking it back? ...it's a long piece so stop blocks might have been difficult to set up and certainly more time consuming, but it seems they'd also be more precise just because they are repeatable with higher precision.
Hi, can ve make mortise and tenons easily with a fixed based 6 mm Makita 3709 router?
Great video, thanks for sharing! Bonus points for the RPN calculator!! Awesome!! :) 12c?
Thanks ZeusT. The calculator is an 11C. Steve
I'm just about to try making nesting tables for my mum and was hoping to try out my new router and table. Thanks so much. I'll probably watch your video a few more times but you've explained it well.
Instantly giving you a like and comment for the HP RPN calculators. Very cool.
I have 3 of these and the RPN entry is awesome. Thanks. Steve
sorry, but you have very accurate equipment, but don't know how to use it, except by "eye" ,,, very inaccurate and repea table only by " close enough" the whole time I'm looking at a stop collet system on top of the fence. digital caliper yet alignment is " about there"
I really liked the fact that he didn't use all the fancy equipment as MANY of us don't have that.
he said in the beginning this is going to be a video without using any fancy accessories.
My suggestion is to lower the piece onto the tool in the middle of the mortise, rather than trying to begin the cut on one of the limits lines, and then work your way, back and forth toward the lines. Also not very safe to measure the height of the bit while the router is powered on and running.
I don't think the router was running when he measured it. The extraction perhaps.
And I thought I was the only one that still had one of those HP calculators!!
I have 3. One in the shop, one at my desk, & one at work. Great calculators and last a long time. I think I purchased my first one in 1975. A buddy at work has one as well.
@@extremewoodworker Yeah, that looks like a 1975 model! 😃 Good old Reverse Polish notation!
@@rodc4334 Hi Rod. That would be correct. I purchased it while I was doing my first engineering internship. (I was given two more by a friend who didn't know how to use them).
The joint may be glued, pinned, or wedged to lock it in place.
Excellent instruction! Very poor lighting; could t see ANY detail. Dang.
I think Steve is the only woodworker with an "Extreme"ly sharp handled brush. Maybe it's for the big chips :B
or maybe the slider got to it.
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks Ronnie - the brush was in the tool tray and partially obscured - it just looks sharp. After 38 years, all the sharp edges on the brush have worn down. Steve
Ronnie W use a tonacut router
Nice demo Steve. I thought I was the only one that measured stuff like that with digital calipers down to .001" when making joinery. HaHa
Thanks Guy, Ahh - the good old days of yesteryear when we made more test cuts than work pieces. It is so nice to do one setup and have it right the first (or second) time.
Wow, a mitre on a tenon INSIDE a blind mortise? That's craftsmanship!
I used the digital caliper to dial in the thickness of some bridge material for my Leigh dovetail jig as .002 to small and it will fall out. Sign me up into the "close tolerance club"!
With a mortise that's quite close to an end you should really have at least a one inch horn left on the top of the wood so that when you're routing towards the top edge (your second cut) you can't blow out the end. Then cut the horn off off afterwards. Bill Hylton says so. So it must be right. Bill Hylton is Router God.
I love your videos. I noticed your Kelly Mehler shop apron. I got to take 1 of his classes, I don’t live very far from his shop.
Thanks for sharing. Really good and helpfull. The jig is helpfull too. Best regards
All of my routers have 1/4" shanks. Do they make upspiral bits that work with that shank size?
Excellent tutorial, thank you so much for posting. I will be cutting some joints tomorrow.
Thank you very much from Philippines
Thanks for sharing, I will be trying this as I have a job coming up that needs mortice and tenon joints.
Love your tenon jig, thanks for the great tutorial, Sainam Thailand
Sir.. you got a new subscriber here...
thanks for sharing man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Majeed, thank you. Steve
You have touched on the very basics that most “professionals” ignore , neglect, or don’t know
Hi Sam. Glad to be of some help. Steve
Very clear presentation. Thank you.
Steven, Oooh, sweet! You're using your classic HP-12C -- my all-time favorite financial calculator. I even love its "RPN." You could amaze us with an Internal Rate of Return, Depreciation, Present Value, Amortization, and all sorts of other neat and wonderful calculations, too. You definitely have all the best toys. You're making me turn Festool green with lust and envy. : D
I doubt that anyone would be amazed by my financial calculations since it is actually an HP 11C scientific calculator. It is ashamed that RPN calculators aren't common, they are so much easier to use. Plus, you have the advantage that no one asks to borrow it since they don't know how to use it. LOL. Steve
what router motor under the table sounds strong
how deep can you go for each pass of the mortis?
Brilliant thanks
Very welcome
Thank you. A great system that I look forward to trying next week. I love the little folding saddle square. Can you identify a manufacturer or place where I can purchase one?
Rex, the saddle square was made in Oregon by Bridge City Toolworks and unfortunately is no longer made. The only way to get them now is on the used market. Steve
Do you move the fence when cutting the tenon?
my brotherin law lives in paris ark
Very nice tutorial, easy to follow and get results. Was wondering about the long pointed mechanical pencil and the chalk? holder you used to mark the location of the mortises(Visor?)
Thanks Pat. The products are made by Pica that I picked up from Lee Valley. The chalk is really a crayon which is good for marking rough cuts. The pencil is the Pica Dry. Here is the link: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121
Steve
What fence is on your router table?
Very clear explanations, sir. Thank you very much for sharing your skills. Subscribed.
Cheers from Perth Australia.
Thank you Candido, it is great to hear from folks down under. Steve
Thanks for the video, I will be trying that out.
Where did you find the router insert plate and maybe the table as well. Not familiar with that brand. Pros/Cons?
Jeff, I purchased the router table used. The lift is a Jointech brand but was made by Jessum in Canada. Mine is the Mast-r-lift but is different than the current Mast-r-lift-II. If you already have a router to use in a table, I do like the Jessum. I have no complaints about the Jessum and the only con I have found is interference with the Jessum Mite-r-slide by the height adjustment handle when the fence is too close. Steve
Very helpful video, thank you!
Steve, Nice video. Thank you. Who makes your router table fence?
Thanks. The fence is a Jointech which is no longer in business.
great to watch how you do this
and that white pencil?
Wish I had such fancy tools. Please show the ordinary way. Thanks
What fancy tools are you talking about? The only one I saw, was that neat digital ruler. As for the calipers, those are dirt cheap anywhere.
Thanks very helpful!
Thanks, just what I needed. What kind of bit did you use to create the tenon?
ExtremeWoodworker
3 years ago
I have had several questions about what specific bits were used in the video:
1) The mortises were cut with a Magnate Spiral 2 Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, MicroGrain Carbide, Right-Hand : p/n 2006
2) The tenon was cut with a CMT Dado and Planer Bit p/n 852.504.11
Steve
Hp Calculator!
What marking gauge are you using in the beginning with the dual heads?
The marking gauge was purchased from Lee Valley. They call it the Pocket Marking Gauge. The pencil is a Pica but you have to purchase the white lead separately. Be aware that the lead is quite soft so don't bear down on it.
Steve
I have had several questions about what specific bits were used in the video:
1) The mortises were cut with a Magnate Spiral 2 Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, MicroGrain Carbide, Right-Hand : p/n 2006
2) The tenon was cut with a CMT Dado and Planer Bit p/n 852.504.11
Steve
Hi Steve - thanks for a great tutorial. I am wondering about the setup for your tenon jig. Do you need to use it with the same bit/fence configuration each time for it to be effective at preventing tear-out?
Not a good idea....
Nice job. Nice video work... Nice presence! I wanted to be a tool and die maker and that never happened. I got a digital caliper as a Christmas gift and picked up a Wixey digital height gauge at an auction new in the pack cheap. Using the digital tools to set router bit heights, move the table saw fence a few thousandths, etc has proven very rewarding (and super accurate). Hey it's woodworking but for those of us that demand a little better fit, it is the way to go. Thank you for your efforts on the videos and I look forward to more good stuff! Best to you!
Thanks Jeff. The beauty of these type setup tools is that it is a once or twice adjustment and you are done. When I did this with the table saw tenoning jig, many test cuts to get it right. This way is much quicker.
Steve
ExtremeWoodworker Hi Steve. I enjoyed this video and picked up a few tips so thanks for that. I also
like the other videos that I have watched so far. I also like your shop and the tools. Speaking of tools, is the router table used in this video a hybrid setup. What I mean is the fence with the rod on top looks like a JessEm fence that attaches to JessEm right angle fence, but the back arm that adjusts the fence depth in and out looks like it could be part of the Incra router fence system. If that's the case, would you please do a video on the fence system and the Incra fence adjustment system? I have a full JessEm system with the right angle fence and have been debating if I want to figure out a way to mount the Incra fence adjuster system to my current JessEm table or get just Incra's fence adjuster or put an put and Incra fence and adjuster on my JessEm router table or get an all Incra router table system.... You thoughts on the subject? Hahaha Sorry for being so long winded!
Thanks in advance.
Thanks Ron. The router table fence is a Jointech with the Jessum Mite-r-slide that I purchased used. Ilike the Jessum quite a bit but sometimes it gets in the way when doing tall stock and when using the handle to raise the lift. I don't have the Incra fence system but that is the one I would purchase today if in the market. Steve
many thanks
Nicely done
nice job :)
Thank you!
Hey where did you purchase that bit height gauge?
It is an iGaging Snap Check Height Gauge and can be purchased on Amazon, Infinity Tools, and several other suppliers. Steve
Surely you can round your tenons with a router bit?
Yes - it can be done with special jigs, pantorouter or a JDS multi-router. Steve
Where do I get one of those white markers???
Hi Mark, The marker is a Pica-Dry mechanical pencil and can be purchased in the US from either Lee Valley or Toolnut. Be aware the leads are very soft particularly the white. Here is a link: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121
Steve
You write your three's from bottom to top!! Cool!
Funny - I always have written three's this way and find it awkward to write them from the top down. I remember this always upset my 4th grade teacher and she tried very hard to get me to change. It even came up during those parent teacher conferences - go figure.
@@extremewoodworker sounds like a teacher who’s lost track of the goals.
just what i was looking for. thanks!
Thanks, glad to be of help. Steve
Steve I did this method cutting mortises on some board edges a while ago and I noticed sometimes th wood wanted to shoot away unless I really held onto it. Maybe I'm too new to that but wondered if you experienced it too? I was using a spiral upcut bit. Maybe that was why?
Hi Dave, what you describe sounds like a reaction you would get from a climb cut. You should not have experienced that with a spiral upcut bit since both sides of the bit are cutting the wood. I have not experienced that doing the M&T on the router table. That one leaves me a bit baffled. Steve
Since you ate cutting on both sides of the bit the wood is trapped between the bit and the fence. The wood is trying to shoot out of there because it’s trapped in there. Also the bit is trying to push the wood away from the fence. If you feed from left tho right you won’t have that climb
great tutorial! Thanks alot :D
Thanks Dan, glad you enjoyed it. Steve
Nice job, I'm almost ready to tackle my first mortise and tenon joints for a shop project, thanks to your knowledge on figuring out the math!