Middle crack at Enchanted Rock
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Challenging 5.8 Trad route called Middle Crack at Enchanted Rock. From non existent crack technique, to poor gear management, its clear I have a ways to go.
word on the street is the bolts I clip at the end were placed illegally, and are now gone, just a heads up in case you are counting on them to be there. although they are gone they were good to me.
Good thing you didn't fall on that #2 below the crux! That thing probably would've pulled with bodyweight.
Tons of sketchy placements for sure. Felt way in over my head on this one.
Pretty old video by now, but one thing too is to manage the tail on your knot. It isn't affecting the quality of the knot, but I've seen people mistakenly, hastily clip the tail and not the actual sharp end. Little things can help a lot.
Always remember that you can back off of a pitch that you feel uncomfortable on. The first pieces that you placed that looked like they could hold bodyweight were the blue and red nuts, which potentially would have zippered based on the quality of lower cam placements.
Agreed on the first two. Green 0.75 looked pretty decent, though.
10/17/95 my last climb with Frosty.
Good effort, recommend spending time placing gear on the ground and working on ground anchors. Will help your placements and knowledge base.
It sounded like you were off belay for a bit at the top. Hopefully that was my bad hearing
At least your not taped to the elbows.
Would have never placed a cam behind the upper flake. It's super thin up there and a cam could easily blow the flake out in a fall. I've only ever put nuts and tricams (which might even not be the best idea) in that upper flake.
Nice video - that green first nut might have gone well sideways where the open ends would engage with the nobbles to prevent it moving
Thanks for the tip!
lol
Well done, looked quite sketchy in parts for sure! Also, that rope could not have been any shorter :D