Breaking Wrap Three Pull Two Webbing Anchors

We broke 35 webbing anchors to:
1. Measure the breaking strength of wrap three pull two's (W3P2)
2. Quantify the variability in W3P2 breaking strength
3. Identify the failure location of W3P2's
Results:
1. The average breaking strength was 40.78 kN (9167 lbs)
2. The standard deviation was 4.8 kN (1075.4 lbs)
3. All anchors broke at the screw link where the lowest strand was pinched against the screw link by the over riding strand.
For the complete paper visit the International Technical Rescue Symposium web page at:
www.itrs-online...
Or visit the SARRR research archive web page at:
sarrr.weebly.co...

[@ridermak4111]

Lots of variables involved in wrap friction. Very interesting though.
I would love to have seen a back to back comparison with 1/2” kernmantle, same W3P2 configuration.
I’m personally befuddled as to why safety of life critical anchor points are trusted to webbing when kernmantle rope outperforms webbing by tons.
Webbing is a single unprotected load element that when under load can fail suddenly and catastrophically if nicked by a sharp edge. Quality kernmantle static rescue rope has more than double the load rating and built-in protection of the core by the mantle. Fail testing of kernmantle shows the core failing long after the sheath. Compact, light weight is important to sport climbers, not as much for rescue teams. Just some facts to chew on. Sorry for the rant.
Safety of life. 🤜🤛